IKES  riXPLORAilONS 

By  Order  of  t/je  U.S.GQV^t. 


>  The  Source  of  TheA^/ss/ss/ppi 
iN  18  05 


H  TheTerritoryof Louisiana 
AND  Provinces  of  New  Spain 

In  180  6-7 


>JMKt-  ._or-y\vWly/x5!!^V^  „ 


ASM-    .9 


EXPLORATORY   TRAVELS, 


ITSt 


NORTH  AMERICA. 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 

in  2007  with  funding  from 

IVIicrosoft  Corporation 


http://www.archive.org/details/exploratorytraveOOpikerich 


uinr.  z.t.Fi  'iz. 


W.  H.Lawrence  3^.    Co.  Denver.  Colo 


EXPLORATORY    TRAVELS 

THROUGH   THB 

WESTERN  TERRITORIES 

OP 

NORTH     AMERICA: 

COMPRISING    A 

VOYAGE  FROM  ST.  LOUIS,  ON  THE  MISSISSIPPI, 

TO   THE 

SOURCE  OF  THAT  RIVER, 
JOURNEY  THROUGH  THE  INTERIOR  OF  LOUISIANA. 

Aim  IBS.  ^ 

NORTH-EASTERN  PROVmCES  OF  NEW  SPAIN. 

Performed  in  the  jears  1805, 1806. 1807.  by  Order  of  the  GoTeminent  of  the  United  States  j 


BY  ZEBULON  MONTGOMERY  PIKE,    HTf-l^rl^ 


tUJOB    6TB    RBGT.    Of/ITBD   STJTBS   HtFANTSr. 

LONDON; 
PATERNOSTER-ROW. 


1811. 


DENVER: 

W.  H.  LAWRENCE  &  CO. 

1889. 


"7.-&-1 


Copyright  J889 
By  W.  H.  LAWRENCE  &  CO. 


DONOHUE  &  HENNEBERRY 

Printers,  Engravers  and  Binders 

CHICAGO, 


Bancroft  k^taHQ^ 


INTRODUCTION. 


IN  June,  1808,  in  conformity  with  law,  Zebulon  M.  Pike  secured  a  copy- 
right for  a  book,  the  title  of  which  was  as  follows  :  "  An  account  of 
expeditions  to  the  sources  of  the  Mississippi,  and  through  the  western 
parts  of  Louisiana,  to  the  sources  of  the  Arkansaw,  Kans,  La  Platte  and 
Pierre  Jaun  rivers.  Performed  by  order  of  the  Government  of  the  United 
States,  during  the  years  1805,  1806,  and  1807.  And  a  tour  through  the 
interior  parts  of  New  Spain,  when  conducted  through  these  provinces  by 
order  of  the  captain-general  in  the  year  1807.  By  Major  Z.  M.  Pike." 
It  was  printed  by  John  Binns,  of  Philadelphia,  who  is  said  to  have  had  the 
honor  of  being  the  first  to  print  the  Constitution  of  the  United  States,  and 
was  published  by  C.  &  A.  Conrad  &  Co.,  of  Philadelphia,  who  appear  to 
have  had  associated  with  them  in  the  enterprise  other  publishing  houses  in 
Petersburgh,  Norfolk  and  Baltimore.  The  date  of  publication  is  18 10. 
The  work  contained  a  portrait  of  Major  Pike,  and  maps  and  charts  of  the 
country  traversed  in  his  explorations ;  though  in  the  case  of  some  of  the 
copies  extant  the  maps  were  bound  separately  from  the  volume.  The  text 
is  marred  by  errors,  and  the  book,  a  cramped  octavo,  indifferently  printed 
and  bound,  is  quite  unworthy  of  the  story  it  carried  to  the  world.  The 
edition  was  probably  limited  to  a  comparatively  small  number  of  copies, 
and  those  now  existing  are  to  be  found  only  in  old  libraries,  or  in  the 
hands  of  lovers  of  or  dealers  in  rare  hooks. 

Early  in  181 1  the  work  was  republished  in  London  by  Longman, 
Hurst,  Rees,  Orme  &  Brown,  in  quarto  form,  on  hand-made  paper,  with 
type  double  leaded  throughout  the  body  of  the  text,  and  with  generously 
margined  pages.  From  the  fact  that  in  the  "  Advertisement,"  by  Thomas 
Rees,  mention  is  made  of  manuscript  having  been  transmitted  to  England, 
it  is  to  be  inferred  that  this  was  an  authorized  edition  and  that  Pike  had  a 

v. 


VI.  INTRODUCTION. 

• 

share  in  the  proceeds  arising  from  its  sale.  The  publishers  ventured  upon 
some  liberties  with  the  arrangement  of  the  materials,  taking  much  of  the 
details  that  had  gone  to  make  up  Pike's  report  to  the  Government — geo- 
graphical, statistical  and  scientific  records — which  in  the  American  edition 
had  been  gathered  in  appendixes,  and  incorporating  them,  when  practi- 
cable, in  the  body  of  the  work.  Some  inaccuracies  of  expression  were 
amended,  but  the  corrections  were  so  few  as  to  leave  the  narrative  prac- 
tically as  the  autho"-  penned  it.  In  all  respects  the  edition  is  an  improve- 
ment on  the  original  one,  and  gives  evidence  that  the  value  of  the  recital 
had  been  appreciated  by  the  British  publishers.  It  had  probably  a  large 
sale  on  this  side  of  the  Atlantic,  but  at  this  day  copies  are  rare  in  America. 

The  material  progress  that  has  characterized  the  career  of  our  country 
has  nowhere  been  more  marked  than  in  those  sections  of  it  that  were  the 
scenes  of  Pike's  travels  and  adventures.  The  great  silent  river  of  his 
3ay,  flowing  through  a  wilderness  rarely  trodden  save  by  the  foot  of  the 
savage,  is  one  of  the  main  arteries  of  a  colossal  commerce.  Mighty  cities 
adorn  its  banks.  The  roar  of  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  where  he  secured 
from  the  Indians  land  for  a  post,  is  lost  in  the  ever  increasing  hum  of 
industry.  The  buffalo  has  passed  forever  from  the  plains  ;  the  idle  desert 
waves  in  wheat  fields,  and  rustles  in  seas  of  corn.  Potosi's  wealth  seems 
beggarly  by  the  side  of  the  stores  of  precious  metal  taken  from  the  Rocky 
Mountains  within  thirty  years. 

Among  those  inhabiting  the  portions  of  our  country  first  explored 
and  described  by  Pike,  there  exists  a  very  widespread  ignorance  of  the 
man.  To  the  majority  his  name  has  been  kept  alive  solely  because  of  its 
connection  with  the  great  peak,  by  which,  in  what  we  call  early  days,  a 
large  part  of  Colorado  was  known.  There  is  some  general  knowledge 
that  he  crossed  the  plains  and  penetrated  the  mountains,  but,  at  the  best, 
it  is  extremely  vague.  That  in  the  century  that  witnessed  the  exploits  of 
the  pioneer  of  pioneers,  who  first  raised  the  flag  of  the  United  States 
within  the  limits  of  what  is  now  Colorado,  his  identity  should  be  virtually 
lost,  and  his  deeds  forgotten  by  those  who,  afterward,  under  very  differ- 
ent conditions — stern  though  they  may  have  been — followed  in  his  foot- " 
steps,  seems  strange  enough.  But  the  ingratitude  said  to  be  peculiar  to 
republics  in  all  ages  has  not  been  the  prevailing  factor  in  bringing  about 
this  condition  ;  as  has  been  shown,  the   record   made  by  Pike  himself  is 


INTRODUCTION.  VU. 

almost  unattainable.  This  consideration  has  induced  the  present  pub- 
lishers to  give  this  volume  to  the  world.  In  pursuit  of  the  undertaking  it 
has  been  deemed  best  to  republish  the  British  edition  of  Pike's  book. 
That  edition  was  much  the  worthier  vehicle  of  the  history.  Beside,  it 
had,  in  all  probability,  the  benefit  of  a  revisal  by  the  author.  It  has  been 
considered  that  it  would  add  to  the  interest  of  the  volume  to  have  it,  so 
far  as  the  text  is  concerned,  as  nearly  as  practicable,  a  reproduction  of  the 
copy.  This  has  been  here  attempted.  A  fac-simile  of  the  portrait  of 
Pike,  printed  in  the  original  edition,  has  been  added,  as  well  as  a  modern 
map  illustrating,  as  nearly  as  may  be,  the  course  of  his  party  on  the 
western  expedition. 

The  journal  of  the  voyage  to  the  head  of  the  Mississippi  will  be  read 
with  interest  and  pleasure.  Pike's  indomitable  perseverance,  surmounting 
all  obstacles,  is  well  illustrated  in  the  narration.  But  his  most  important 
work  is  the  record  of  the  expedition  to  the  Rocky  Mountains.  It  will  be 
found  of  absorbing  interest.  In  point  of  daring  adventure  and  enduring 
fortitude  it  is  not  surpassed  in  American  history,  replete  with  examples. 
Poorly  provisioned  and  appointed,  Pike  led  a  handful  of  men,  in  the  dead 
of  winter,  into  the  heart  of  unknown  mountains  eight  hundred  miles  from 
his  country's  frontier.  The  simple,  unaffected  recital  of  the  dangers  met 
and  the  hardships  endured  compels  our  utmost  sympathy  and  admiration. 
While  all  the  details  are  not  set  down — the  author  seeming  rather  to 
abstain  from  rousing  the  reader's  pity — enough  is  given  to  enable  us  to 
form  some  conception  of  the  appalling  misery  of  the  march  across  the 
mountains  from  hunger,  fatigue  and  freezing.  The  picture  of  that  broken 
file  of  emaciated,  half-clothed  heroes,  strung  out  over  the  January  snow- 
fields  on  the  steeps  of  the  Sangre  de  Cristo  Range,  will  never  fade  from 
the  memory.  In  the  military  annals  of  the  Republic  there  is  nothing 
more  pathetic. 

The  reader,  in  perusing  the  story  of  suffering,  will  find  himself  casting 
about  for  an  answer  to  the  question, — Why  did  Pike  sacrifice  so  much  in 
order  to  cross  the  mountains  from  the  Arkansas  ?  Why  the  feverish 
pressing  forward,  when  that  course  involved  inevitable  distress  on  the  part 
of  the  entire  command  as  well  as  the  abandonment  of  several  of  his  men  ? 
Good  reason  for  an  onward  movement  nowhere  appears,  necessitating,  as 
it  did,  leaving  behind  the  horses,  and  dropping  here  and  there,  singly  or 


Vni.  INTRODUCTION. 

in  couples,  men  made  cripples  by  frost,  to  be  exposed  to  the  gravest 
dangers  from  disease,  starvation,  wild  beasts  and  savages,  and  to  certain 
death  should  the  main  body  be  unable  to  send  back  relief.  There  was 
every  probability  of  more  privation  in  the  mountains  than  had  been  expe- 
rienced upon  the  plains,  where  stray  buffalo  yet  lingered.  It  was  a 
season  of  intense  cold,  the  snow  lay  deep  upon  the  hills,  where  game  was 
known  to  be  scarce,  and  even  to  so  sanguine  a  man  as  Pike  the  con- 
sideration that  he  knew  absolutely  nothing  of  the  country  ahead  of  him 
might  well  have  given  pause.  The  more  the  matter  is  studied  from  every 
point  of  view  the  more  irresistible  becomes  the  conclusion  that  some 
design  or  motive  not  disclosed  was  a  powerful  factor  in  deciding  the  step 
that  was  taken. 

His  conduct  upon  reaching  the  San  Luis  Valley  deepens  the  seeming 
mystery.  Whether  or  not  he  knew  he  was  on  the  Rio  Grande  when 
captured  is  doubtful,  but  probably  he  did  not.  There  are  early  Spanish 
maps  showing  with  comparative  accuracy  the  relative  courses  and  positions 
of  the  Arkansas,  the  Rio  Grande  and  the  Red  River ;  but  Pike  may  never 
have  had  access  to  one  of  these,  and  beside,  the  direction  pursued  by 
Robinson  in  going  west  from  the  fort,  on  his  journey  to  Santa  Fe,  indi- 
cates ignorance  of  the  country.  It  is  difficult,  too,  to  understand  Robinson's 
actions  even  on  the  explanation  that  Pike  has  given  us.  He  had  no  interest 
in  Morrison's  claims,  ostensibly  for  the  collection  of  which  he  went  to 
Santa  Fe.  Why,  when  he  arrived  there,  he  should  represent  himself  as  a 
Frenchman  who  had  accompanied  a  hunting  party,  and  tell  the  fantastic 
tale  that  Salcedo  writes  to  Wilkinson  in  his  letter  of  May  20,  1807; 
whether  he  expected  to  return,  and,  if  so,  how;  and  why  Pike  denied  his 
being  of  the  force — all  this  is  not  easy  to  comprehend. 

The  relations  between  the  United  States  and  Spain  were  under  great 
strain  at  this  time.  The  Louisiana  purchase  had  been  consummated,  but 
the  limits  of  the  grant,  especially  toward  the  southwest,  were  disputed,  and 
much  jealousy  was  manifested  on  both  sides.  Each  power  claimed  Red 
River,  while  the  Spaniards  asserted  dominion  far  to  the  northeast  of  that 
stream,  upon  the  great  plains.  War  was  confidently  expected  as  the  out- 
come of  the  dispute.  In  May,  1806,  the  United  States  dispatched  "the 
exploring  expedition  of  Red  River,"  a  small  force  under  the  command  of 
Captain  Sparks,  instructed  to  ascend  the  river  "to  the  country  of  the 


INTRODUCTION.  IX. 

Pawnee  Indians."  Here  he  was  to  buy  horses  from  the  Pawnees,  to  be 
used  in  transporting  his  men  and  their  effects  "to  the  top  of  the  mountains," 
considered  to  be  distant  about  three  hundred  miles.  The  command  was 
met,  while  on  the  river,  by  a  force  of  Spaniards  greatly  outnumbering  it, 
and  compelled  to  turn  back.  In  addition  to  the  tension  in  the  far  West,  the 
country  was  agitated  by  the  intrigues  of  Aaron  Burr.  He  was  suspected 
of  cherishing  a  design  of  forcing  secession  of  the  country  west  of  the  Alle- 
ghanies,  while  it  was  notorious  that  an  invasion  and  conquest  of  the 
northern  Spanish  provinces  was  in  contemplation.  The  commander-in- 
chief  of  the  United  States  army  was  James  Wilkinson.  He  was  also  gov- 
ernor of  the  Territory  of  Louisiana,  It  was  generally  suspected  that 
between  him  and  Burr  some  bond  of  union  existed  ;  it  subsequently  devel- 
oped'that  he  had  been  the  recipient  from  Burr  of  cipher  letters  bearing 
upon  the  conspiracy,  and  it  was  charged  by  Burr,  under  solemn  circum- 
stances, that  these  letters  had  been  answered.  It  is  true  that  Wilkinson 
was  the  chief  witness  in,  if  he  was  not  the  instigator  of,  Burr's  prosecution, 
and  that  Wilkinson  was  duly  acquitted  of  complicity  in  the  plot ;  but  the 
country,  almost  rocked  by  revolution,  was  in  a  high  state  of  alarm,  and 
Wilkinson  labored  under  the  greatest  suspicions  in  some  quarters.  Pike 
was  a  protege  of  Wilkinson,  and  it  was  from  the  latter  and  not  from  the 
secretary  of  war,  that  the  orders  for  the  expedition  proceeded.  It  is  not, 
then,  to  be  wondered  at  that  it  was  widely  charged  that  Pike  was  an  emis- 
sary of  the  supposed  conspirators,  and  that  the  expedition  bore  a  very 
direct  relation  to  Burr's  enterprises.  Pike,  upon  his  return,  promptly  and 
vigorously  denounced  the  calumnies  against  him,  and  no  one  who  reads 
his  journal  and  discerns  the  lofty,  patriotic  soul  that  inspired  the  writer, 
can  for  a  moment  suspect  his  fidelity  to  his  country  and  its  laws.  What- 
ever may  be  thought  of  Wilkinson,  no  cloud  will  rest  upon  Pike's  memory. 
But  that  he  had  instructions  other  and  further  than  appear,  may  well  be 
presumed,  and  thus  may  an  explanation  be  found  for  conduct  that  seems  to 
need  it.  There  was  every  probability  of  war  with  Spain,  in  which  case  a 
strategic  demonstration  upon  the  headwaters  of  the  Red  River,  or  upon 
those  of  the  Rio  Grande,  even  with  the  small  force  at  Pike's  command — 
for  the  Spaniards  were  not  held  in  high  estimation — might  be  of  importance. 
This  will  account  for  his  haste  to  leave  the  Arkansas  after  a  month's  delay 
in  the  mountains.     Then,  too,  in  anticipation  of  an  invading  force  follow- 


X.  INTRODUCTION. 

ing  his  line  of  marcH,"  it  was  imperatively  demanded  that  a  practicable 
route  to  Santa  Fe  should  be  known  as  early  as  possible.  Upon  either  of 
these  hypotheses  we  can  reconcile  his  rigorous  exposure  of  his  men  with 
his  evident  love  for  them.  Looking  at  the  party  as  the  pioneers  of  a 
possible  invading  force,  Robinson's  journey  to  Santa  Fe  may  be  under- 
stood, and  its  value,  as  well  as  the  supreme  danger  attending  it,  appreciated; 
though  we  would  prefer  to  have  had  him  in  the  rear  with  the  crippled 
soldiers,  who  were  sending  forward  bones  taken  from  their  frozen  feet  — 
mute  memorials  of  their  distress. 

It  will  be  learned  from  the  journal  that  certain  more  or  less  widely 
accepted  notions  concerning  Pike  are  erroneous.  One  is  the  general 
belief  that  he  scaled  the  peak  now  bearing  his  name.  His  diary  shows 
that  he  failed  in  the  Undertaking — a  fact  not  at  all  to  his  discredit  when 
his  condition,  ignorance  of  the  country,  and  the  season  of  the  year  are  con- 
sidered. The  height  he  climbed  was  probably  Cheyenne  Mountain. 
Major  Long,  who  did  gain  the  summit  of  the  peak  in  1819,  is  the  first  who 
succeeded  of  whom  there  is  a  record.  He  had  a  well  equipped  party,  and 
made  the  ascent  in  the  summer.  He  named  the  eminence  James'  Peak 
after  the  surgeon  of  his  command,  but  later  comers  re-christened  the 
mountain  as  it  should  be  known.  The  germ  of  the  now  threadbare  anec- 
dote concerning  the  tourist  starting  to  climb  the  peak  before  breakfast  is 
found  in  Pike's  attempt.  It  is  also  supposed  that  Pike  had  many  encoun- 
ters with  Indians  while  on  the  plains  and  in  the  mountains.  He  not  only 
fought  none,  but  saw  remarkably  few  after  leaving  l^e  neighborhood  of 
the  Pawnee  villaafes.  There  is  also  a  belief  that  miningr  was,  to  some 
extent,  prosecuted  by  the  Spaniards  within  the  limits  of  the  present  State 
of  Colorado  at  the  time.  As  a  matter  of  fact,  there  was  not  a  white  man 
in  the  country.  Strangely  enough,  to  a  citizen  of  the  United  States,  James 
Pursley,  a  Kentuckian,  must  be  accorded  the  distinction  of  being  the  dis- 
coverer of  gold  in  what  is  now  Colorado.  The  story  of  this  man,  found 
at  page  314,  reads  like  a  romance,  but  it  can  hardly  be  doubted  that  he  did, 
in  the  year  1802,  find  the  precious  metal  in  the  sands  of  the  Platte,  presum- 
ably near  where  Fairplay  now  stands.  Not  till  fifty-seven  years  had  rolled 
by  was  his  story  shown  to  be  capable  of  verification.  The  exact  line  of 
march  of  the  party  from  the  time  it  reached  the  foot  of  the  Grand  Cafion 
of  the  Arkansas  is  not  easy  to  trace.     It  is  likely  that  it  reached  the  Platte 


INTRODUCTION.  XI. 

in  the  South  Park,  and  quite  possible  that  it  penetrated  to  the  headwaters 
of  the  Gunnison.  It  is  extremely  difficult  to  identify  the  streams  spoken 
of,  owing  to  the  hasty  manner  in  which  the  country  is  sketched,  the  loss  of 
Pike's  original  notes,  and  his  subsequent  borrowing  from  Spanish  maps. 
Striking  southwest,  in  the  last  desperate  effort  to  cross  the  mountains,  the 
Wet  Mountain  Valley  was  probably  traversed  and  one  of  the  higher 
branches  either  of  Grape  Creek  or  of  the  Huerfano  followed  to  reach  the 
pass.  Whether  this  pass  was  the  Mosca  or  the  Medano  (known  also  as 
"  Sandhill"),  or  whether  it  was  one  still  farther  to  the  north  as  thought  by 
some,  cannot  be  definitely  established.  In  the  early  days  of  the  settle- 
ment of  the  country  the  Mosca  was  well  traveled  by  the  Southern  Utes 
on  their  journeys  to  the  plains,  and  their  "  hieroglyphics,"  of  which  Pike 
speaks,  were  to  be  seen  cut  in  the  bark  of  the  aspen  trees  ;  but  from  the 
fact  that  after  reaching  the  San  Luis  Valley  on  January  28th,  1807,  the 
party  marched  some  considerable  distance  on  a  course  lying  between  the 
sand  dunes  and  the  mountains,  the  evidence  woyld  seem  to  warrant  the 
belief  that  the  pass  used  was  north  of  the  Mosca,  and  was  probably  the 
"  Sandhill."  Thence  the  march  led  to  the  western  skirt  of  Sierra  Blanca, 
and  thence  to  the  Rio  Grande  near  where  Alamosa  now  stands.  The 
river  was  descended  to  the  Conejos  and  upon  the  north  bank  of  that 
stream,  at  a  point  five  or  six  miles  above  its  mouth,  the  fort  was  built. 
The  exact  locality  of  the  site  (a  notable  spot  in  western  history)  is  in  dis- 
pute, owing  to  the  discovery  many  years  ago  of  the  remains  of  an  ancient 
log  structure  farther  west  on  the  Conejos  which  some  suppose  to  have 
been  Pike's  fortress;  but  everything  in  the  narrative,  as  well  as  in  the  Span- 
ish records,  indicates  the  prairie  opposite  the  mineral  springs  and  high  hill 
onthe  south  bank  of  the  Conejos  as  the  spot  where  the  flag  of  the  United 
States  is  first  recorded  as  floating  above  the  soil  of  Colorado. 

Pike  was  essentially  a  soldier.  His  mtrepidity  under  disheartening 
misfortunes,  the  stern  discipline  he  maintained  in  his  little  band,  and 
his  dignified  bearing  in  the  hands  of  his  captors,  stamp  him  as  a  leader 
among  men.  He  did  not  shield  himself  behind  his  rank  when  danger 
and  hardship  were  to  be  met.  He  was  the  scout  of  his  force,  he 
was  the  hunter,  he  carried  the  "pack."  The  West,  with  few  historic 
associations  beyond  our  own  times,  and  no  other  remote  hero,  may  look 
back  upon  this  one  fondly  and  with  pride.     It  is  a  picturesque  and  bold 


Xii.  INTRODUCTION. 

figure,  that  of  this  young  officer,  "dressed  in  a  pair  of  blue  trousers,  mock- 
insons,  and  blanket,  coat  and  cap  made  of  scarlet  cloth  lined  with  fox 
skins,"  before  the  Spanish  Governor  at  Santa  Fe,  in  March,  1807.  We 
may  be  certain  that  the  uncouth  attire  detracted  no  particle  from  the 
natural  dignity  of  its  owner,  who  was  well  aware  what  was  due  from,  as 
well  as  to,  an  American  soldier  representing  his  country  in  a  strange  land. 
He  was  born  near  Trenton,  New  Jersey,  on  the  5th  day  of  January,  1779. 
His  father  was  an  officer  in  the  War  of  the  Revolution.  Even  as  a  boy,  of 
slight  build  and  gentle  disposition,  there  showed  in  him  the  resolute  spirit 
that  was  to  carry  his  country's  flag  over  vast  tracts  of  unknown  land  des- 
tined thereafter  to  constitute  an  important  part  of  the  United  States. 
His  conduct  on  the  two  expeditions  of  which  he  has  left  accounts  was  such 
as  to  earn  him  his  appointment  as  Brigadier-General  as  he  entered  his 
thirty-fourth  year.  While  it  was  awaiting  confirmation  by  the  Senate,  on 
April  27th,  1 8 13,  his  brief  but  active  career  was  crowned  with  a  soldier's 
death  when  he  was  leading  the  assault  upon  the  British  works  at  York, 
Canada.  In  his  last  moments  he  maintained  the  utmost  fortitude.  Upon 
his  person  after  death  there  was  found  a  pocket  volume  in  which  he  had 
written  two  rules  by  which  he  wished  his  young  son  to  be  guided.  They 
were  that  the  boy  should  always  preserve  his  honor  free  from  blemish, 
and  that  he  should  be  ready  at  all  times  to  die  for  his  country.  There 
can  be  no  doubt  that  these  were  the  cardinal  principles  directing  Zebulon 
Montgomery  Pike  throughout  life. 

His  monument,  than  which  no  man  has  a  prouder,  looks  down  upon 
the  scene  of  his  daring  western  march.  To  us  who  know  his  story,  the 
great  "White  Mountain"  seems  to  gather  a  new  dignity  by  the  addition 
of  his  name,  and  for  all  yet  to  come  shall  the  mighty  peak  yet  preserve  his 
memory  even  as  it  holds  its  everlasting  snow.  A  soldier  of  the  Republic 
when  it  and  the  century  were  young,  earnestly  devoted  to  his  duty,  he 
deserved  well  of  his  country.     For  it  he  lived,  and  for  it  he  died. 

Denver,  1889.  William  M.  Maguire. 


EEPOKT  OF  THE  COMMITTEE, 

APPOINTED 

ON  THE  FIFTEENTH  OF  NO  VEMBER,  1808, 

TO    INQUIRE 

WHAT  COMPENSATION  OUGHT  TO  BE  MADE 

TO 

CAPTAIN  ZEBULON   M.  PIKE, 

AND  HIS  COMPANIONS. 
DECEMBER  i6th,  1808. 


1  HE  committee  of  the  House  of  Representatives  of  the  Congress  of  the  United 
States,  to  whom  was  referred  the  resolution  to  inquire,  Whether  any,  and  if  any,  what 
compensation  ought  to  be  made  to  Captain  Zebulon  M.  Pike  and  his  companions,  for 
their  services  in  exploring  the  Mississippi  river,  in  their  late  expedition  to  the  sources 
of  the  Osage,  Arkansaw,  and  La  Plate  rivers,  and  in  their  tour  through  New  Spain: 
Report, 

That  it  appears  by  the  documents  accompanying  this  Report,  that  the  objects  of  each 
of  the  exploring  expeditions,  together  with  the  instructions  for  executing  them,  were 
communicated  to  and  approved  by  the  President  of  the  United  States  ;  that  the  con- 
duct of  Captain  Pike  in  each  of  the  expeditions  also  met  with  the  approbation  of  the 
President,  and  that  the  information  obtained  and  communicated  to  the  executive  on 
the  subjects  of  his  instructions,  and  particularly  in  relation  to  the  source  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi, and  the  natives  in  that  quarter,  and  the  country  generally,  as  well  on  the 
Upper  Mississippi  as  that  between  the  Arkansaw  and  the  Missouri,  and  on  the  borders 
of  the  latter  extensive  river  to  its  source,  and  the  country  adjacent,  is  highly  inter- 
esting in  a  political,  geographical,  and  historical  view;  and  that  although  no  special 
encouragement  was  given  to  the  individuals  who  performed  these  laborious  and  danger- 
ous expeditions,  yet  it  was  but  reasonable  for  them,  should  they  fortunately  succeed 
in  their  objects,  to  expect  some  reward  from  goverment.     That  the  zeal,  perseverance, 

15 


xvi  REPORT  OF 

and  intelligence  of  Captain  Pike  as  commander,  have  been  meritorious,  and  the  con- 
duct of  the  individuals  generally,  who  composed  the  parties  respectively,  has  been 
faithful,  and  their  exertions  arduous.  The  Committee  therefore  are  of  opinion  that 
compensation  ought  to  be  made  by  law  to  Captain  Pike  and  his  companions. 


DOCUMENTS. 


WAR  DEPARTMENT. 

To  the  Hon.  J.  Montgomery, 
Chairman,  &c. 

December  "jth,  1808. 
Sir, 
I  HEREWITH  inclose  copies  of  the  instructions  to  Lieutenant  Pike,  for  the 
government  of  his  conduct  on  the  two  exploring  expeditions  alluded  to  in  your  letter; 
and  likewise  lists  of  the  names  of  the  men  composing  those  parties.  You  will 
perceive  that  the  instructions  were  given  by  General  Wilkinson,  the  object  however  of 
each  party,  together  with  the  instructions,  were  communicated  to,  and  approved  by 
the  President  of  the  United  States.  Although  no  special  encouragement  was  given  to 
the  individuals  who  performed  these  laborious  and  dangerous  expeditions,  yet  it  was 
but  reasonable  for  them,  should  they  fortunately  succeed  in  their  objects,  to  expect 
a  liberal  reward  from  the  government;  and  as  there  can  be  no  reasonable  doubt  of 
the  zeal,  perseverance,  and  intelligence  of  the  commander,  or  of  the  faithful  conduct 
and  arduous  exertions  of  the  individuals  generally,  composing  the  respective  parties, 
it  may,  I  trust,  be  presumed  that  no  objection  will  be  opposed  to  a  reasonable 
compensation  for  such  meritorious  services. 

I  am  very  respectfully,  sir, 

Your  obedient  servant, 

H.  Dearborn. 


(COPY.) 

To  Z.  M.  Pike,  ist  Regiment  Infantry. 

Head  Quarters,  St.  Louis,  July  Z°^h,  1805. 
Sir, 
HAVING  completed  your  equipments,  you  are  to  proceed  up  the  Mississippi  with 
all  possible  diligence,  taking  the  following  instructions  for  your  general  government, 
which  are  to  yield  to  your  discretion  in  all  cases  of  exigency.     You  will  please  to  take 

16 


THE  COMMITTEE  OF  CONGRESS.  xvii 

the  course  of  the  river,  and  calculate  distances  by  time,  noting  rivers,  creeks,  highlands, 
prairies,  islands,  rapids,  shoals,  mines,  quarries,  timber,  water,  soil,  Indian  villages, and 
settlements,  in  a  diary  to  comprehend  reflections  on  the  winds  and  weather.  It  is 
interesting  to  government  to  be  informed  of  the  population  and  residence  of  the 
several  Indian  nations,  of  the  quantity  and  species  of  skins  and  furs  they  barter  per 
annum,  and  their  relative  price  to  goods;  of  the  tracts  of  country  on  which  they  gener- 
ally make  their  hunts,  and  the  people  with  whom  they  trade.  You  will  be  pleased  to 
examine  strictly,  for  an  intermediate  point  between  this  place  and  the  Prairie  des 
Chiens,  suitable  for  a  military  post,  and  also  on  the  Ouisconsin,  near  its  mouth,  for  a 
similar  establishment,  and  will  obtain  the  consent  of  the  Indians  for  their  erection, 
informing  them  that  they  are  intended  to  increase  their  trade,  and  ameliorate  their 
condition.  You  will  please  to  proceed  to  ascend  the  main  branch  of  the  river  until 
you  reach  the  source  of  it,  or  the  season  may  forbid  your  further  progress  without 
endangering  your  return  before  the  waters  are  frozen  up.  You  will  endeavour  to 
ascertain  the  latitude  of  the  most  remarkable  places  in  your  route,  with  the  extent 
of  the  navigation,  and  the  direction  of  the  different  rivers  which  fall  into  the 
Mississippi;  and  you  will  not  fail  to  procure  specimens  of  whatever  you  may  find 
curious,  in  the  mineral,  vegetable,  or  animal  kingdoms,  to  be  rendered  at  this  place. 
In  your  course  you  are  to  spare  no  pains  to  conciliate  the  Indians,  and  to  attach  them 
to  the  United  States;  and  you  may  invite  the  great  chiefs  of  such  distant  nations  as 
have  not  been  at  this  place  to  pay  me  a  visit.  Your  own  good  sense  will  regulate 
the  consumption  of  your  provisions,  and  direct  the  distribution  of  the  trifling  presents 
which  you  may  carry  with  you,  particularly  your  flags.  I  wish  you  a  speedy,  pleasant, 
and  safe  tour,  and  am,  sir,  with  sentiments  of  respect  and  esteem, 

Your  obedient  servant, 
(Signed)  James  Wilkinson. 

P.  S.  In  addition  to  the  preceding  orders,  you  will  be  pleased  to  obtain  permission 
from  the  Indians,  who  claim  the  ground,  for  the  erection  of  military  posts  and  trading 
houses  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  St.  Pierre,  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  and  every  other 
critical  point  which  may  fall  under  your  observation;  these  permissions  to  be  granted 
in  formal  conferences,  regularly  recorded,  and  the  ground  marked  off. 


(COPY.) 

To  Lieutenant  Z.  M.  Pike. 

St.  Louis ^  June  24M,  1806. 
Sir, 
YOU  are  to  proceed  without  delay  to  the  cantonment  on  the  Missouri,  where 
you  are  to  embark  the  late  Osage  captives,  and  the  deputation  recently  returned  from 
Washington,  with  their  presents  and  baggage,  and  are  to  transport  the  whole  up  the 
Missouri  and  Osage  rivers  to  the  town  of  the  Grand  Osage.  The  safe  delivery  of 
this   charge   at   the  point  of    destination    constitutes    the    primary    object  of   your 

17 


xviii  REPORT  OF 

expedition,  and  therefore  you  are  to  move  with  such  caution  as  may  prevent  surprise 
from  any  hostile  band,  and  are  to  repel  with  your  utmost  force  any  outrage  which 
may  be  attempted.  Having  safely  deposited  your  passengers  and  their  property,  you 
are  to  turn  your  attention  to  the  accomplishment  of  a  permanent  peace  between  the 
Kansas  and  Osage  nations,  for  which  purpose  you  must  effect  a  meeting  between  the 
head  chiefs  of  those  nations,  and  are  to  employ  such  arguments,  deduced  from  their 
own  obvious  interests,  as  well  as  the  inclinations,  desires,  and  commands  of  the 
President  of  the  United  States,  as  may  facilitate  your  purpose  and  accomplish  the 
end.  A  third  object  of  considerable  magnitude  will  then  claim  your  attention:  it  is  to 
effect  an  interview,  and  establish  a  good  understanding  with  the  letans  or  Camanches. 
For  this  purpose  you  must  interest  White  Hair  of  the  Grand  Osage,  with  whom  and 
a  suitable  deputation,  you  will  visit  the  Pawnee  Republic,  where  you  may  find 
interpreters  and  inform  yourself  of  the  most  feasible  plan  by  which  to  bring  the 
Camanches  to  a  conference.  Should  you  succeed  in  this  attempt,  and  no  pains  must 
be  spared  to  effect  it,  you  will  endeavour  to  make  peace  between  that  distant  powerful 
nation  and  the  nations  which  inhabit  the  country  between  us  and  them,  particularly 
the  Osage;  and  finally,  you  will  endeavour  to  induce  eight  or  ten  of  their  distinguished 
chiefs  to  make  a  visit  to  the  seat  of  government  next  September,  and  you  may  attach 
to  this  deputation  four  or  five  Pawnees,  and  the  same  number  of  Kanses  chiefs.  As 
your  interview  with  the  Camanches  will  probably  lead  you  to  the  head  branches  of 
the  Arkansaw  and  Red  rivers,  you  may  find  yourself  approximated  to  the  settlements 
of  New  Mexico,  and  therefore  it  will  be  necessary  you  should  move  with  great 
circumspection,  to  keep  clear  of  any  hunting  or  reconnoitring  parties  from  that 
province,  and  to  prevent  alarm  or  offence,  because  the  affairs  of  Spain  and  the  United 
States  appear  to  be  on  the  point  of  amicable  adjustment;  and,  moreover,  it  is  the 
desire  of  the  President  to  cultivate  the  friendship  and  harmonious  intercourse  of  all 
the  nations  of  the  earth,  and  particularly  our  nearest  neighbours,  the  Spaniards. 

In  the  course  of  your  tour,  you  are  to  remark  particularly  upon  the  geographical 
structure,  the  natural  history,  and  population  of  the  country  through  which  you  may 
pass,  taking  particular  care  to  collect  and  preserve  specimens  of  everything  curious  in 
the  mineral  and  botanical  worlds  which  can  be  preserved  and  are  portable.  Let 
your  courses  be  regulated  by  your  compass,  and  your  distances  by  your  watch,  to  be 
noted  in  a  field  book;  and  I  would  advise  you,  when  circumstances  permit,  to  protract 
and  lay  down  in  a  separate  book  the  march  of  the  day  at  every  evening's  halt. 

The  instruments  which  I  have  furnished  will  enable  you  to  ascertain  the  variation 
of  the  magnetic  needle,  and  the  latitude,  with  exactness;  and  at  every  remarkable  point 
I  wish  you  to  employ  your  telescope  in  observing  the  eclipses  of  Jupiter's  satellites. 
having  previously  regulated  and  adjusted  your  watch  by  your  quadrant,  taking  care 
to  note  with  great  nicety  the  periods  of  immersion  and  emersion  of  the  eclipsed 
satellite.  These  observations  may  enable  us  after  your  return,  by  application  to  the 
appropriate  tables,  which  I  cannot  now  furnish  you,  to  ascertain  the  longitude.  It  is 
an  object  of  much  interest  with  the  executive  to  ascertain  the  direction,  extent,  and 
navigation  of  the  Arkansaw  and  Red  rivers;  as  far  therefore  as  may  be  compatible 

i8 


THE  COMMITTEE  OF  CONGRESS.  xix 

with  these  instructions,  and  practicable  to  the  means  you  may  command,  I  wish  you 
to  carry  your  views  to  those  subjects,  and  should  circumstances  conspire  to  favour  the 
enterprise,  you  may  detach  a  party  with  a  few  Osages  to  descend  the  Arkansaw,  under 
the  orders  of  Lieutenant  Wilkinson  or  Sergeant  Ballinger,  properly  instructed  and 
equipped  to  take  the  courses  and  distances,  to  remark  on  the  soil,  timber,  &c.  and  to 
note  the  tributary  streams.  This  party  will,  after  reaching  our  post  on  the  Arkansaw, 
descend  to  Fort  Adams,  and  there  wait  further  orders.  And  you  yourself  may  descend 
the  Red  river,  accompanied  by  a  party  of  the  most  respectable  Camanches  to  the  post 
of  Natchitoches,  and  there  receive  further  orders.  To  disburse  your  necessary 
expenses,  and  to  aid  your  negotiations,  you  are  herewith  furnished  six  hundred  dol- 
lars worth  of  goods,  for  the  appropriation  of  which  you  are  to  render  a  strict  account, 
vouched  by  documents  to  be  attested  by  one  of  your  party.  Wishing  you  a  safe  and 
successful  expedition, 

I  am,  Sir,  with  much  respect  and  esteem. 

Your  very  obedient  servant, 
(Signed)  James  Wilkinson. 


(COPY.) 

To  Lieutenant  Z.  M.  Pike. 

Cantonment,  Missouri,  July  12,  1806. 
Sir, 

THE  health  of  the  Osages  being  now  generally  restored,  and  all  hopes  of  the  speedy 
recovery  of  their  prisoners  from  the  hands  of  the  Potowatomies  being  at  an  end,  they 
have  become  desirous  to  commence  their  journey  for  their  villages;  you  are  therefore 
to  proceed  to-morrow.  In  addition  to  the  instructions  given  to  you  on  the  24th  ultimo, 
I  must  require  you  to  have  the  talks  under  cover,  delivered  to  White  Hair  and  the 
Grand  Peste,  the  chief  of  the  Osage  band  which  is  settled  on  the  waters  of  the 
Arkansaw,  together  with  the  belts  which  accompany  them;  you  will  also  receive  here- 
with a  small  belt  for  the  Pawnees,  and  a  large  one  for  the  letans  or  Camanches. 
Should  you  find  it  necessary,  you  are  to  give  orders  to  Maugraine,  the  resident 
interpreter  at  the  Grand  Osage,  to  attend  you.  I  beg  you  to  take  measures  for  the 
security  and  safe  return  of  your  boats  from  the  Grand  Osage  to  this  place.  Doctor 
Robinson  will  accompany  you  as  a  volunteer;  he  will  be  furnished  with  medicines, 
and  for  the  accommodation  which  you  give  him,  he  is  boand  to  attend  your  sick. 

Should  you  discover  any  unlicensed  traders  in  your  route,  or  any  person  from  this 
territory,  or  from  the  United  States,  without  a  proper  license  or  passport,  you  are  to 
arrest  such  person  or  persons,  and  dispose  of  their  property  as  the  law  directs. 

My  confidence  in  your  caution  and  discretion  has  prevented  my  urging  you  to  be 
vigilant  in  guarding  against  the  stratagems  and  treachery  of  the  Indians;  holding 
yourself  above  alarm  or  surprise,  the  composition  of  your  party,  though  it  be  small, 
will  secure  to  you  the  respect  of  a  host  of  untutored  savages. 

19 


XX  '  REPORT  OF 

You  are  to  communicate  from  the  Grand  Osage,  and  from  every  other  practicable 
point,  directly  to  the  secretary  of  war,  transmitting  your  letters  to  this  place,  under 
cover  to  the  commanding  officer,  or  by  any  more  convenient  route.  I  wish  you  health, 
and  a  successful  and  honorable  expedition,  and  am  yours,  with  friendship, 

(Signed)  J.  Wilkinson. 


To  Captain  Zebulon  M.  Pike. 

War  Department,  February  24,  1808. 

Sir, 

IN  answer  to  your  letter  of  the  zad  instant,  I  can  with  pleasure  observe,  that 
although  the  two  exploring  expeditions  you  have  performed  were  not  previously 
ordered  by  the  President  of  the  United  States,  there  were  frequent  communications 
on  the  subject  of  each,  between  General  Wilkinson  and  this  department,  of  which  the 
President  of  the  United  States  was,  from  time  to  time,  acquainted;  and  it  will  be  no 
more  than  what  justice  requires  to  say,  that  your  conduct  in  each  of  those  expeditions 
met  the  approbation  of  the  President,  and  that  the  information  you  obtained  and 
communicated  to  the  executive,  in  relation  to  the  source  of  the  Mississippi,  and  the 
natives  in  that  quarter,  and  the  country  generally,  as  well  on  the  Upper  Mississippi 
as  that  between  the  Arkansaw  and  the  Missouri,  and  on  the  borders  of  the  latter 
extensive  river  to  its  source,  and  the  country  adjacent,  has  been  considered  highly 
interesting  in  a  political,  geographical,  and  historical  view.  And  you  may  rest 
assured  that  your  services  are  held  in  high  estimation  by  the  President  of  the  United 
States,  and  if  any  opinion  of  my  own  can  afford  you  any  satisfaction,  I  very  frankly 
declare  that  I  consider  the  public  much  indebted  to  you  for  the  enterprising,  perse- 
vering, and  judicious  manner  in  which  you  have  performed  them. 

I  am,  very  respectfully,  Sir, 

Your  obedient  servant, 

H.  Dearborn. 


20 


THE  COMMITTEE  OF  CONGRESS. 


XXI 


RETURN 

Of  Persons  employed  on  a  Tour  of  Discovery  and  Exploration  to  the  Source  of  the 
Mississippi,  in  the  years  1805  and  1806. 

Lieutenant,  Z.  M.  Pike. 

Interpreter,  Pierre  Rosseau. 

Sergeant,  Henry  Kennerman. 

_  (  William  E.  Meek. 

Corporals    <  ,  r,     ^1 

(  Samuel  Bradley. 


PRIVATES. 


Jeremiah  Jackson 
John  Boley 
Thomas  Dougherty 
Solomon  Huddleston 
Theodore  Miller 
Alexander  Roy 
Patrick  Smith 
Peter  Branden 
David  Whelply 


John  Brown 
Jacob  Carter 
William  Gordon 
John  Mountjoy 
Hugh  Menaugh 
John  Sparks 
Freegift  Stout 
David  Owings. 


This  party  left  St.  Louis  the  9th  of  August,  1805,  but  had  been  detached  for  that 
duty  from  the  ist  of  July.  They  returned  the  30th  of  April,  1806;  from  which  time 
until  the  15th  of  July,  I  was  preparing  for  the  second  expedition  to  the  westward, 
which  consisted  of  the  following  persons,  to  wit: 

Captain  Z.  M.  Pike. 

Lieutenant  James  B.  Wilkinson.* 

Doctor  John  H.  Robinson. 

Sergeants    |  Joseph  Ballenger.* 
(  William  E.  Meek.t 
Corporal  Jeremiah  Jackson.f 
21 


XXI 1 


REPORT   OF  THE  COMMITTEE,  &c. 


PRIVATES. 


John  Boley* 
Henry  Kennerman 
Samuel  Bradley* 
John  Brown 
Jacob  Carterf 
Thomas  Doughertyf 
William  Gordon 
Solomon  Huddleston* 


Theodore  Millerf 
Hugh  Menaugh 
John  Mountjoyf 
Alexander  Roy 
John  Sparksf 
Patrick  Smithf 
Freegift  Stout 
John  Wilson.* 


Interpreter,  Baroney  Vasquez.* 

*  Those  thus  marked  descended  the  Arkansaw  river,  and  arrived  at  New  Orleans 
sometime  about  the  of  February,  1807. 

f  Those  thus  marked  are  still  detained  in  New  Spain. 

The  remainder  arrived  at  Natchitoches  on  or  about  the  ist  of  July,  1807;  but  it 
may  probably  be  better  to  leave  the  whole  time  undefined,  to  be  regulated  by  the 
honourable  secretary  of  war. 

Z.  M.  Pike,  Major. 


22 


CONTENTS. 


fAGB. 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  FROM  ST.  LOUIS  TO  THE  SOURCE  OF  THE 

MISSISSIPPI    -------- 25 

INDIAN  NATIONS  BORDERING  THE  UPPER  MISSISSIPPI      -     •     -  124 

THE    SACS ,.._. ib. 

THE    REYNARDS    ....-..-.--. -  125 

THE   lOWAS ib. 

WINEBAGOES  OR   PUANTS - 126 

MENOMENE    OR   FOLS   AVOIN I27 

SIOUX ib. 

MINOWA    KANTONG I28 

WASHPETONGS ....-ib. 

SUSSITONGS -ib. 

YANCTONGS 129 

TETONS          ------  ib. 

WASHPECONTE ---ib. 

OBSERVATIONS  ON  THE  TRADE  OF  THE  NORTH-WEST    COM- 
PANY         138 

JOURNAL    OF    AN    EXPEDITION    THROUGH     THE    INTERIOR    OF 

LOUISIANA - 149 

OSAGE    INDIANS       .....-.....---..------  168 

PAWNEE  INDIANS          -- 184 

KANSES    INDIANS - 187 

lETAN  OR  CAMANCHE  INDIANS         ................  202 

JOURNAL  OF  A  TOUR  THROUGH  THE  INTERIOR  PROVINCES  OF 

NEW  SPAIN 241 

GEOGRAPHICAL   AND    STATISTICAL   OBSERVATIONS  ON  THE  IN- 
TERIOR PROVINCES  OF  NEW  SPAIN 297 

GAUDALAXARA       .-.---....-.-........  ib. 

VALLADOLID       -..--.      .^.      .-.--..      ......  298 

33 


XXIV 


CONTENTS. 


TACT,. 

MEXICO - .--.      298 

OAXACA 299 

VERA  CRUZ  ..-.- lb. 

PUEBLA     ------------------------       lb. 

GUANAXUATO  ---- ..-.--      300 

ZACATECAS         ..---------- -----lb. 

ST.  LUIS  POTOSI        -------- ---lb. 

NEUVO  SAN  ANDER        ..------------------lb. 

NEW  LEON     --- -- 3°1 

NEW  MEXICO 3°2 

BISCAY      --- ' 316 

SENORA  -------      ......-----      323 

SINALOA  ...-.- ....-.-.----      326 

COGQUILLA  ....---.-.------------      ib. 

TEXAS        ------------------------      329 

APPENDIX 353 


24 


I 


\  ^. 


EXFLOK 


<  ti  f. 


i  2.   . 


2        r:   ■-  -,  !^        .N.    CO    <L 


f 


a. 


'■'vf-  I;  ^^  SHIPS''  t^  it.s 
'    ilf  •  ^.  ^^  ^.  tie  liead 

I  ame  on  fro 

behind  ««» 


rf 


jimmt.ii 


lilC  pciii: 


tne  eastern' 
•wjr,  obstnicted  b3' 
1^.  the  confluence 


T"*  n.'M***''" 


!3!I 


—^3^ 


>■  * 


t 


^ 


/ 


/ 


EXPLOBATORY  TKAYELS, 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE  FROM  ST.  LOUIS  TO  THE 

SOURCE  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPL  PERFORMED 

IN  THE  YEARS  1805  AND  1806. 

ON  the  afternoon  of  Friday,  the  9th  of  August,  1805,  I  sailed,  agree- 
ably to  my  instructions,  from  my  encampment  near  St.  Louis,  with 
one  sergeant,  two  corporals,  and  seventeen  privates,  in  a  keel  boat  about 
seventy  feet  long,  provisioned  for  four  months,  in  order  to  make  a  survey 
of  the  river  Mississippi  to  its  source.  Encamped  at  night  on  the  eastern 
side  of  the  river,  at  the  head  of  an  island. 

We  embarked  again  early  on  the  following  morning,  and  breakfasted 
opposite  to  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri,  near  Wood  Creek  ;  about  5  o'clock 
P.  M.  a  storm  came  on  from  the  westward.  Having  gone  out  with  two 
men,  to  march  behind  a  cluster  of  islands,  one  of  my  soldiers  swam  a 
channel  in  the  night,  to  inform  me  that  the  boat  had  stopped  during  the 
storm.  I  remained  on  the  beach  all  night.  We  had  this  day  proceeded 
by  computation  twenty-eight  miles. 

From  St.  Louis  to  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri,  the  eastern  shore 
consists  of  a  rich  sandy  soil,  timbered  with  button  wood,  ash,  cotton  wood, 
hacberry,  etc.  The  western  is  composed  of  high  land,  for  a  short  distance 
above  the  town,  bordered  by  a  small  prairie  or  natural  meadow ;  after 
which  bottom  land  occurs,  with  the  same  timber  as  on  the  eastern  side. 
The  current  is  rapid,  and  the  navigation,  at  low  water,  obstructed  by  sand 
bars.     Immediately  on  the  peninsula,   formed  by  the  confluence  of  the 

25 


26  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

rivers  Mississippi  and  Missouri,  is  a  small  Kikapoo  settlement,  occupied  in 
summer  only.  On  the  western  shore  there  is  a  rich  prairie,  with  small 
skirts  of  wood,  and  the  eastern  generally  consists  of  hills  from  eighty 
to  one  hundred  feet  in  height,  extending  to  the  mouth  of  the  Illinois. 
The  current  of  the  Mississippi,  above  the  en-trance  of  the  Missouri,  is 
quite  gentle,  until  you  arrive  at  the  mouth  of  the  Illinois,  where,  owing 
to  the  large  sand  bars,  and  many  islands,  it  is  rendered  extremely  rapid. 

On  the  nth  of  August,  the  boat  came  up  in  the  morning,  and  stopped 
opposite  to  the  Portage  de  Sioux.  We  here  spread  out  our  baggage  to 
dry,  discharged  our  guns  at  a  target,  and  scaled  out  our  blunderbusses  ; 
dined  at  the  cave  below  the  Illinois  ;  at  the  mouth  of  which  river  we 
remained  some  time.  From  the  course  of  the  Mississippi,  the  Illinois 
might  be  mistaken  at  its  junction  with  it  for  a  part  of  the  principal  stream. 
The  Illinois  river  is  about  four  hundred  and  fifty  yards  wide  at  its  mouth, 
and  bears  from  the  Mississippi  N,  75 **  W.:  the  current  appears  not  to 
exceed  two  and  a  half  miles  an  hour.  The  navigation  and  the  tributary 
streams  of  this  river  are  too  well  known  to  require  a  description.  We 
encamped  at  night  on  the  lower  point  of  an  island,  about  six  miles  above 
the  Illinois.  We  were  much  detained  in  passing  some  islands,  and 
obliged  to  get  into  the  water,  and  haul  the  boat  through. 

On  the  1 2th  of  August,  we  made  several  miles  to  breakfast,  and 
about  three  o'clock  P.  M.  passed  Buffalo  or  Bceuf  river,  above  which,  about 
five  miles,  commences  a  beautiful  cedar  cliff.  Having  passed  this,  the 
river  expands  to  nearly  two  miles  in  width,  and  contains  four  islands, 
whose  lowest  points  are  nearly  parallel ;  thesewe  called  the  Four  Brothers. 
We  encamped  on  the  point  of  the  easternmost.  It  rained  very  hard  all 
night ;  caught  one  catfish.     We  advanced  this  day  thirty  miles. 

From  the  Illinois  to  the  Buffalo  river,  the  eastern  shore  exhibits  hills, 
but  of  easy  ascent ;  on  the  west  the  land  is  a  continued  prairie,  but  not 
always  bordering  on  the  river.  Timber  is  found  on  both  sides,  generally 
hacberry,  cotton  wood,  and  ash  ;  the  Buffalo  river  enters  on  the  west, 
and  appears  to  be  about  one  hundred  yards  wide  at  its  mouth.  It  bears 
from  the  Mississippi  S.  30°  W.  From  the  Illinois  to  this  river,  the  navi- 
gation is  by  no  means  difficult,  and  the  current  is  mild.  ' 

On  the  13th  of  August,  it  was  late  before  we  sailed.  In  our  course  we 
passed  a  great  number  of  islands,  on  one  of  which  we  left  one  of  our  dogs. 


OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.  27 

We  were  much  impeded  by  sand  bars,  and  obliged  to  haul  our  boat  over 
several  of  them.  We  observed,  on  our  way,  several  encampments  which 
had  been  lately  occupied  :  rained  all  day ;  distance  sailed,  twenty-seven 
miles. 

On  the  following  morning,  J4th  of  August,  we  had  rain,  but  a  fine  wind 
springing  up,  we  put  ofif  at  half  past  six  o'clock :  passed  a  camp  of  Sacs, 
consisting  of  three  men,  with  their  families  ;  they  were  employed  in  spear- 
ing and  scaffolding  a  fish,  about  three  feet  in  length,  with  a  long  flat 
snout :  they  pointed  out  the  channel,  and  prevented  us  from  taking  the 
wrong  one.  I  gave  them  a  small  quantity  of  whiskey  and  biscuit,  and 
they,  in  return,  presented  me  with  some  fish.  Sailed  through  a  continua- 
tion of  islands,  for  nearly  twenty  miles  :  met  a  young  gentleman  (Mr. 
Robedoux)  by  whom  I  sent  a  letter  to  St.  Louis.  At  night  encamped  on 
an  island  ;  caught  a  considerable  number  of  small  fish.  The  rain  continued 
the  whole  day.      Distance  sailed,  twenty-eight  miles. 

On  the  1 5th  of  August,  it  continued  still  to  rain  ;  from  the  uninter- 
rupted series  of  wet  weather,  the  men  were  quite  galled  and  sore.  I  met 
this  day  a  Mr.  Kittletas,  of  New  York,  who  gave  me  a  line  to  Mr.  Fisher, 
of  the  Prairie  des  Chiens.  Passed  a  small  river,  to  the  west,  with  a  sand 
bar  at  its  entrance  :  we  also  passed  Salt  river,  which  I  do  not  recollect  to 
have  seen  laid  down  on  any  chart :  it  is  a  considerable  stream,  and  at  high 
water  is  navigable  for  at  least  two  hundred  miles.  We  left  here  another 
dog;    distance  sailed,  twenty-six  miles. 

From  the  Illinois  to  Salt  river,  or  Oahahah,  the  eastern  shore  is 
either  immediately  bordered  by  beautiful  cedar-cliffs,  or  the  ridges  may  be 
seen  at  a  distance.  On  the  west  there  is  a  rich  low  soil,  through  which 
two  small  rivers  flow  into  the  Mississippi.  The  first  I  called  Bar  river, 
which  is  about  twenty  yards  in  width  ;  the  second  is  about  fifteen  yards. 
Salt  river  bears  from  the  Mississippi,  N.  75°  W.  and  is  about  one  hundred 
or  one  hundred  and  twenty  yards  wide  at  its  junction,  and  when  I  passed 
the  current  appeared  to  be  perfectly  gentle.  At  high  water  it  is  navigable 
for  boats  at  least  two  hundred  miles  above  its  mouth.  About  one  day's 
sail  up  the  river,  there  are  salt  springs,  which  have  been  worked  for  four 
years ;  but  I  am  not  informed  as  to  their  qualities  or  produce. 

In  this  distance  the  navigation  of  the  Mississippi  is  very  much 
"obstructed  by  bars  and  islands,  indeed,  to  such  a  degree,  as  to  render  it 


28  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

difficult  in  many  places  to  fix  the  proper  channel.  The  shores  generally 
consist  of  a  sandy  soil,  timbered  with  sugar  maple,  ash,  pecan,  locust, 
and  black  walnut.  The  eastern  side  has  generally  the  preference  as  to 
situations  for  building. 

We  embarked  early  on  the  morning  of  the  i6th  oi  Angus i,  but  were 
so  unfortunate  as  to  get  fast  on  a  log,  and  did  not  extricate  o'urselves 
until  past  eleven  o'clock,  having  to  saw  off  a  part  of  it  under  the  water. 
At  three  o'clock  P.  M.  arrived  at  the  house  of  a  Frenchman,  situate  on  the 
western  side  of  the  river,  opposite  to  Hurricane  Island.  His  cattle 
appeared  to  be  in  fine  order ;  but  his  corn  in  a  bad  state  of  cultivation. 
He  is  married  to  a  woman  of  the  Sac  nation,  and  lives  by  a  little  culti- 
vation and  the  Indian  trade.  About  one  mile  above  his  house,  there  is  a 
very  handsome  hill,  which  he  informed  me  was  level  on  the  top,  with  a 
gradual  descent  on  either  side,  and  a  fountain  of  fine  water.  He  likewise 
told  me  that  two  men  had  been  killed  on  the  Big  Bay  or  Three  Brothers, 
and  desired  to  be  informed  what  measures  had  been  taken  in  consequence. 
Caught  three  catfish  and  one  perch.  Encamped  four  miles  above  the 
house,  having  proceeded  in  all  this  day  eighteen  miles. 

Embarked  the  following  morning,  and  came  on  remarkably  well ;  at 
ten  o'clock  stopped  for  breakfast,  and  in  order  to  arrange  our  sail,  when 
the  wind  serving  we  put  off,  and  continued  under  easy  sail  all  day ; 
passed  three  batteaux.  In  the  evening  we  had,  by  computation,  proceeded 
thirty-nine  miles. 

On  the  1 8th  of  August,  about  eleven  o'clock,  passed  an  Indian  camp, 
on  the  eastern  side ;  they  fired  several  guns,  but  we  passed  without  stop- 
ping. We  had  very  hard  head  winds  part  of  the  day ;  caught  six  fish ; 
advanced  twenty-three  miles. 

19th  August. —  Embarked  early,  and  made  fine  way;  but  at  nine 
o'clock,  in  turning  the  point  of  a  sand  bar,  our  boat  struck  a  sawyer  :  at 
the  moment  we  did  not  know  it  had  injured  her,  but  in  a  short  time  after 
we  discovered  her  to  be  sinking ;  however,  by  thrusting  oakum  into  the 
leak,  and  bailing,  we  got  her  to  shore  on  a  bar,  where,  after  entirely 
unloading,  we  with  great  difficulty  keeled  her  sufficiently  to  cut  out  the 
plank,  and  put  in  a  new  one.  This  I  conceived  at  the  time  to  be  a  great 
misfortune ;  but  we  afterwards  discovered  that  the  injury  resulting  from 
the  accident  was  greater  than  we  were  at  first  induced  to  believe ;  for,  upon 


OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.  29 

inspection,  we  found  our  provision  and  clothing  considerably  damaged. 
The  day  was  usefully  and  necessarily  employed  in  assorting,  sunning,  and 
airing  those  articles.  One  of  my  hunters  (Sparks)  having  gone  on  shore 
to  hunt,  swam  the  river  about  seven  miles  above,  and  killed  a  deer ;  but 
finding  we  did  not  come  on,  he  returned  and  joined  us  by  swimming. 
Whilst  we  were  at  work  at  our  boat  on  the  sand  beach,  three  canoes,  with 
Indians,  passed  on  the  opposite  shore.  They  cried  "  How  do  you  do.?" 
wishing  us  to  give  them  an  invitation  to  come  over;  but  receiving  no 
answer  they  passed  on.  We  then  carried  our  baggage  on  board,  and  put 
ofif,  designing  to  go  where  our  hunter  had  killed  the  deer,  but  after  dark 
we  became  entangled  among  the  sand  bars,  and  were  obliged  to  stop  and 
encamp  on  the  point  of  a  beach.  Caught  two  fish ;  distance  advanced, 
fourteen  miles. 

From  the  Salt  river  to  the  River  Jauflione,  which  is  five  miles  above 
Hurricane  settlement,  and  forms  the  boundary  between  the  Sac  nation  and 
the  United  States,  on  that  side  of  the  Mississippi,  the  western  shore  is 
hilly,  but  the  eastern  consists  of  low  lands,  timbered  with  hickory,  oak, 
ash,  maple,  pecan,  &c.;  the  western  exhibits  also  the  same  wood,  with  a 
greater  proportion  of  oak  :  the  eastern  is  a  rich  sandy  soil,  and  has  many 
very  eligible  situations  for  cultivation.  The  Jauflione  is  about  thirty  yards 
wide  at  its  mouth,  and  bears  from  the  Mississippi  about  S.  W.  In  this  part 
of  the  river  the  navigation  is  good. 

From  hence  to  the  Wyaconda  river  the  navigation  is  easy,  with  very 
few  impediments,  and  the  soil  on  both  sides  pretty  good.  This  river  pays 
its  tribute  to  the  Mississippi,  about  twenty  miles  above  the  Jauflione,  by  a 
mouth  one  hundred  yards  wide,  and  bears  from  the  former  nearly  due  west. 
Just  below  its  entrance  is  a  small  stream  of  fifteen  yards  wide,  which  dis- 
charges itself  into  the  Mississippi.  Between  this  and  the  river  Des  Moines, 
there  is  one  small  stream  emptying  itself  into  the  Mississippi,  on  the  west, 
of  about  fifty-five  yards  in  width,  and  bearing  S.  by  W.  The  first 
part  of  the  distance  is  obstructed  by  islands,  and  the  river  expands  itself 
to  a  great  width,  so  as  to  render  the  navigation  extremely  difficult ;  but  the 
latter  part  affords  more  water,  and  consequently  an  easier  passage.  The 
timber  is  principally  oak  and  pecan.  The  soil  is  the  same  as  that  on  the 
river  below.  Seventy-five  miles  above  the  Frenchman's  settlement,  and 
two  hundred  and  thirty-two  from  the  Missouri,  the   Riviere  des  Moines 


30  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

comes  in  from  the  north-west.     The  width  of  the  Mississippi  is  here  three- 
fourths  of  a  mile. 

On  Tuesday,  the  20th  of  August,  we  arrived  at  the  foot  of  the  Rapids 
des  Moines,  which  are  immediately  above  the  confluence  of  the  river  of 
that  name  with  the  Mississippi.  Although  no  soul  on  board  had  passed 
them  before,  we  commenced  ascending  without  delay.  Our  boat  being 
large,  and  moderately  loaded,  we  found  great  difificulty.  The  rapids  are 
eleven  miles  long,  with  successive  ledges  and  shoals  extending  from  shore 
to  shore  across  the  bed  of  the  river  ;  the  first  fall  is  the  most  difficult  to 
ascend.  The  channel  (which  is  a  bad  one)  is  on  the  eastern  side  at  the 
first  two  falls.  It  then  passes  under  the  edge  of  the  third,  crosses  to  the 
v/est,  and  ascends  on  that  side  all  the  way  to  the  Sac  village.  We  had 
passed  the  first  and  most  difficult  shoal^  when  we  were  met  by  Mr.  Wm. 
Ewing  (who,  I  understand,  is  an  agent  appointed  by  the  United  States  to 
reside  with  the  Sacs,  to  teach  them  agriculture),  with  a  French  interpreter, 
four  chiefs  and  fifteen  men  of  the  Sac  nation,  in  their  canoes,  bearing  a 
flag  of  the  United  States.  They  came  down  to  assist  me  up  the  rapids, 
and  took  out  thirteen  of  my  heaviest  barrels,  and  put  two  of  their  men  in 
the  barge  as  pilots.  We  arrived  at  the  house  of  Mr.  Ewing,  opposite  the 
village,  at  dusk.  This  establishment  is  in  latitude  30°  32'  N.  The  land 
on  both  sides  of  the  rapids  is  hilly,  but  the  soil  rich ;  distance  sailed,  six- 
teen miles. 

The  next  morninc'-  after  our  arrival,  all  the  chief  men  in  the  village 
came  over  to  my  encampment,  where  I  spoke  to  them  to  the  following 
purpose : 

"  That  their  great  father  (the  President  of  the  United  States)  wishing 
to  be  more  intimately  acquainted  with  the  situation,  wants,  &c.,  of  the  dif- 
ferent nations  of  the  Red  People  on  our  newly  acquired  territory  of 
Louisiana,  had  ordered  the  General  (Wilkinson,  the  commander  on  that 
station)  to  send  a  number  of  his  young  warriors  in  different  directions,  to 
take  them  by  the  hand,  and  make  such  inquiries  as  might  afford  the  satis- 
faction required  ;  also,  that  I  was  authorized  to  choose  situations  for  their 
trading  establishments,  and  wished  them  to  inform  me,  if  that  place  would 
be  considered  by  them  as  central." 

"  That  I  was  sorry  to  hear  of  the  murder  that  had  been  committed 
on  the  river  below  ;  but,  in  consideration  of  their  assurances  that  it  was 


OF  THE    MISSISSIPPI.  31 

done  by  none  of  their  nation,  and  of  the  concern  exhibited  by  them  on  the 
occasion,  I  had  written  to  the  General  and  informed  him  of  what  they  had 
said  on  the  subject." 

"  That  in  their  treaty  they  had  engaged  to  apprehend  all  traders  who 
came  amongst  them  without  license ;  for  that  time,  I  would  not  examine 
their  traders  on  this  point,  but  that  on  my  return  I  would  make  a  particu- 
lar examination.  That,  if  they  thought  proper,  they  might  send  a  young 
man  in  my  boat,  to  inform  the  other  villages  of  my  mission." 

I  then  presented  them  with  some  tobacco,  knives  and  whiskey.  They 
replied  to  the  following  purport : 

"  That  they  thanked  me  for  the  good  opinion  I  had  of  their  nation, 
and  for  what  I  had  written  to  the  General.  That  themselves,  their 
young  warriors,  and  the  whole  nation,  were  glad  to  see  me  amongst  them." 

"  That  as  for  the  situation  of  the  trading  houses,  they  could  not 
determine,  being  but  a  part  of  the  nation.  With  respect  to  sending  a 
young  man  along  with  me,  if  I  would  wait  until  the  following  day,  they 
would  choose  and  appoint  one.  And  finally,  thanked  me  for  my 
presents." 

I  wrote  to  my  friends,  and  to  the  General ;  and  not  wishing  to  lose 
any  time,  I  then  embarked,  and  made  six  miles  above  the  village. 
Encamped  on  a  sand  bar.     One  canoe  of  savages  passed. 

Embarked  Thursday,  22d  August,  at  five  o'clock,  A.  M.,  with  head 
winds  ;  passed  a  great  number  of  islands.  The  river  was  here  very  wide, 
and  full  of  sand  bars  ;  proceeded  in  all,  twenty-three  miles. 

Having  sailed  about  five  miles  on  the  following  morning,  we  came  on 
the  western  shore  to  a  very  handsome  situation  for  a  garrison.  The 
channel  of  the  river  passes  under  the  hill,  which  is  about  sixty  feet  per- 
pendicular height ;  the  top  is  level  for  about  four  hundred  yards.  In  the 
rear,  there  is  a  small  prairie  of  eight  or  ten  acres,  which  would  be  a  con- 
venient spot  for  gardens ;  and,  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  river,  there  is  a 
beautiful  prospect  over  a  large  prairie,  as  far  as  the  eye  can  extend, 
occasionally  interrupted  by  groves  of  trees.  Directly  under  the  rock  is  a 
limestone  spring,  which,  after  an  hour's  work,  will  afford  water  amply 
sufficient  for  the  consumption  of  a  regiment  of  men.  The  landing  is  bold 
and  safe,  and  at  the  lower  part  of  the  hill  a  road  may  easily  be  made  for  a 
team.     Black  and  white  oak  timber  are  found  here  in  abundance.     The 


32  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

hill  continues  about  two  miles ;  and  gives  rise  to  five  springs  in  that  dis- 
tance. We  here  met  four  Indians  and  two  squaws ;  having  landed  with 
them,  we  gave  them  one  quart  of  made,  or  diluted  whiskey,  a  few  biscuits, 
and  some  salt.  I  requested  some  venison  of  them ;  they  pretended  they 
could  not  understand  me ;  but  after  we  had  left  them,  they  held  up  two 
hams,  and  hallooed  and  laughed  at  us  in  derision.  We  remained  nine  hours 
on  the  shore,  and  observed  some  traces  of  Indians.  We  afterwards  passed 
a  handsome  prairie  on  the  eastern  side,  and  encamped  at  its  head ;  three 
batteaux  from  Michillimackinac  stopped  at  our  camp  ;  we  were  told  they 
were  the  property  of  Mr.  Myers  Michaels :  we  were  here  informed  that 
the  largest  Sac  village  was  about  two  and  a  half  miles  out  on  the  prairie  ; 
and  that  this  spot  was  called  half  way  to  the  Prairie  des  Chiens,  from  St. 
Louis 

Saturday,  24th  August. — Passed  in  the  morning  a  number  of  islands  ; 
before  dinner  Corporal  Bradley  and  myself  took  our  guns,  and  went  on 
shore.  We  got  behind  a  savannah,  by  following  a  stream  which  we  con- 
ceived to  be  a  branch  of  the  river,  but  which  led  us  at  least  two  leagues 
from  it.  My  two  favourite  dogs  having  gone  with  us  gave  out  in  the 
prairie,  owing  to  the  heat,  high  grass,  and  want  of  water;  but  thinking 
they  would  follow,  we  continued  our  march.  We  heard  the  report  of  a 
gun,  and  supposing  it  to  be  from  our  boat,  answered  it ;  but  shortly  after 
we  passed  an  Indian  trail,  which  appeared  as  if  the  persons  had  been 
hurried,  I  presume  at  the  report  of  our  guns,  for  with  this  people  all 
strangers  are  enemies.  We  soon  struck  the  river,  and  the  boat  appeared 
in  view.  We  stayed  some  time  for  my  dogs,  when  two  of  my  men  volun- 
teered to  go  in  search  of  them.  Encamped  on  the  western  shore,  nearly 
opposite  a  chalk  bank.  My  two  men  had  not  yet  returned,  which  I 
thought  extraordinary,  as  they  knew  my  boat  never  waited  for  any  person 
on  shore:  they  endeavoured,  it  afterwards  appeared,  to  strike  the  Missis- 
sippi ahead  of  us.  We  fired  a  blunderbuss  at  three  different  times,  to  let 
them  know  where  we  lay.  Advanced  this  day,  twenty-three  and  a  half 
miles. 

Sunday,  August  25. — Stopped  on  the  sand  bank  prairie  on  the  east, 
from  which  there  is  a  beautiful  prospect  of  at  least  forty  miles  down  the 
river,  bearing  SE.  and  E.  We  discovered  that  our  boat  leaked  very  fast, 
but  secured  her  inside  so  completely  with  oakum  and  tallow,  as  nearly  to 


OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.  33 

prevent  the  leak.  Fired  a  blunderbuss  every  hour,  as  signals  for  our  men. 
We  this  day  passed  the  river  Iowa,  and  encamped  at  night  on  the  prairie, 
marked  Grant's  Prairie.  The  men  had  not  yet  arrived.  Proceeded  in  all, 
twenty-eight  miles. 

The  Iowa  river*  bears  from  the  Mississippi  SW.,  and  is  one  hundred 
and  fifty  yards  wide  at  its  mouth.  The  shore  of  the  Mississippi  consists 
here  of  high  prairie,  with  yellow  clay  banks,  and  in  some  places  red  sand ; 
the  western  shore  is  prairie  also,  but  bounded  by  skirts  of  wood.  About 
ten  miles  up  the  Iowa  river,  on  its  right  bank,  is  a  village  of  the  lowas. 

Monday,  26th  August. — Rained,  with  a  very  hard  head  wind :  towed 
our  boat  about  nine  miles,  to  where  the  river  Hills  joins  the  Mississippi : 
here  I  expected  to  find  the  two  men  I  had  lost,  but  was  disappointed. 
The  mercury  in  Reaumur  was  at  13°,  whereas,  yesterday,  it  was  26°.  Met 
two  perroques  full  of  Indians,  who  commenced  hallooing,  "How  do  you 
do,"  &c.:  they  then  put  to  shore,  and  beckoned  us  to  do  so  likewise,  but 
we  continued  our  course.  This  day  was  very  severe  on  the  men  :  distance 
sailed,  twenty-eight  miles. 

Tuesday,  27th  August. — Embarked  early,  with  a  cold  north  wind; 
mercury  10°,  the  wind  so  hard  ahead  that  we  were  obliged  to  tow  the  boat 
all  day.  Met  one  perroque  of  Indians,  and  late  in  the  day,  passed  the 
Rock  river.  Some  Indians,  who  were  encamped  there,  embarked  in  their 
canoes,  and  ascended  the  river  before  us.  The  wind  was  so  very  strong, 
that  although  down  the  stream,  they  were  near  sinking.  Encamped  about 
four  miles  above  Rock  river,  on  the  western  shore.  This  day  passed  a  pole 
on  a  prairie,  on  which  five  dogs  were  hanging :  distance  advanced,  twenty- 
two  miles. 

From  the  Iowa  to  Rock  river,  we  generally  had  beautiful  prairies  on 
the  west,  and  in  some  places  very  rich  land,  with  black  walnut  and  hickory 
timber. 

Rock  riverf  is  a  large  stream,  emptying  itself  into  the  Mississippi  on 
the  east,  and  is  about  three  hundred  yards  wide  at  its  mouth.     It  bears 

*  In  ascending  Iowa  river  thirty-six  miles,  you  come  to  a  fork,  the  right  branch 
of  which  is  called  Red  Cedar  river,  from  the  great  quantity  of  that  wood  found  on 
its  banks.  It  is  navigable  for  batteaux,  nearly  300  miles.  It  then  branches  out  into 
three  forks,  called  the  Turkey's  Foot:  these  shortly  after  lose  themselves  in  Rice  lake. 

t  Rock  river  takes  its  source  near  Green  Bay,  on  Lake  Michigan,  upwards  of  450 
miles  from  its  mouth,  and  is  navigable  for  more  than  300  miles. 


34  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

from  the  Mississippi  almost  due  east.  About  three  miles  up  this  river,  on 
the  south  bank,  is  situated  the  third  town  of  the  Sac  nation,  which,  I  was 
informed,  was  burnt  in  the  year  1781  or  1782,  by  about  three  hundred 
Americans,  although  the  Indians  had  assembled  seven  hundred  warriors  to 
give  them  battle. 

Wednesday,  August  28. — About  an  hour  after  we  had  embarked,  we 
arrived  at  the  camp  of  Mr.  James  Aird,  a  Scotch  gentleman,  of  Michilli- 
mackinac.  He  had  encamped  with  some  goods  on  the  beach,  and  was 
repairing  his  boat,  which  had  been  injured  in  crossing  the  rapids  of  Rock 
river,  at  the  foot  of  which  we  now  were.  He  had  sent  three  boats  back 
for  the  goods  he  had  left  behind.  We  breakfasted  with  him,  and  obtained 
considerable  information.  We  afterwards  commenced  ascending  the  rapids ; 
in  the  first  we  carried  away  our  rudder,  but  after  getting  it  repaired,  the 
wind  rising,  we  hoisted  sail,  and  although  entire  strangers  passed  through 
them  with  a  perfect  gale  blowing  all  the  time :  had  we  struck  a  rock,  in  all 
probability  we  must  have  bilged  and  sunk.  On  our  way  we  met  with  Mr. 
Aird's  boats  (which  had  pilots)  fast  on  the  rocks.  These  shoals  are  a  con- 
tinued chain  of  rocks,  extending  about  eighteen  miles  in  length,  and  reach- 
ing in  some  places  from  shore  to  shore.  They  afford  more  water  than 
those  of  La  Riviere  des  Moines,  but  are  much  more  rapid  and  difficult  to 
pass. 

Thursday,  29th  Augusts — Breakfasted  at  the  Reynard  or  Fox  village, 
which  is  above  the  rapids  :  this  is  the  first  village  of  the  Reynards.  It  con- 
sists of  about  eighteen  lodges.  I  expected  to  have  met  my  two  men  here, 
but  was  again  disappointed.  Finding  they  had  not  passed,  I  lay  by  until 
four  o'clock,  P.  M.;  the  wind  fair  all  the  time.  The  chief  informed  me,  by 
signs,  that  in  four  days  they  could  march  to  Prairie  des  Chiens ;  and 
promised  to  furnish  them  with  mockinsons,  and  put  them  on  their  route  ; 
upon  this  we  set  sail,  and  made  at  least  four  knots  an  hour.  I  was  dis- 
posed to  sail  all  night,  but  the  wind  lulling,  we  encamped  on  the  point  of 
an  island  on  the  western  shore,  having  advanced  twenty  miles. 

Friday,  August  30th. — Embarked  at  five  o'clock,  with  the  wind  fair, 
but  not  very  high;  sailed  all  day.  Passed  four  perroques  of  Indians; 
distance  made,  forty-three  miles. 

Saturday,  31st  August. — Embarked  early.  Passed  one  perroque  of 
Indians  ;    also  two  encampments,  one  on   a  beautiful    eminence    on  the 


OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.  35 

western  side  of  the  river.     This  place  had  the  appearance  of  an  old  town. 
Sailed  almost  all  day,  and  made  thirty-one  miles. 

Sunday,  ist  Sept. — Embarked  early,  with  the  wind  fair  ;  arrived  at 
the  lead  mines  at  twelve  o'clock.  A  dysenterj',  with  which  I  had  been 
afflicted  several  days,  was  suddenly  checked  this  morning,  which  I  believe 
to  have  been  the  occasion  of  a  very  violent  attack  of  fever  about  eleven 
o'clock.  Notwithstanding  it  was  very  severe,  I  dressed  myself,  with  an 
intention  to  execute  the  orders  of  the  General  relative  to  this  place.  We 
were  saluted  with  a  field  piece,  and  received  with  every  mark  of  attention 
by  Monsieur  Dubuque,  the  proprietor.  There  were  no  horses  at  the 
house,  and  as  it  was  six  miles  to  the  mines,  it  was  impossible  to  make  a 
report  from  actual  inspection.  I  proposed,  in  consequence,  ten  queries, 
on  the  answers  to  which  my  report  was  formed.*  Dined  with  Mr.  D., 
who  informed  me  that  the  Sioux  and  Sauteurs  were  as  warmly  engaged  in 
opposition  as  ever  ;  that  not  long  since  the  former  had  killed  fifteen  of  the 
latter  who,  in  return,  killed  ten  Sioux,  at  the  entrance  of  the  St.  Peter's ; 
and  that  a  war  party,  composed  of  the  Sacs,  Reynards,  Puants,  to  the 
number  of  two  hundred  warriors,  had  embarked  on  an  expedition  against 
the  Sauteurs,  but  that  they  had  heard  that,  the  chief  having  had  an 
unfavourable  dream,  persuaded  the  party  to  return,  and  that  I  should 
meet  them  on  my  voyage.  At  this  place  I  was  introduced  to  a  chief, 
called  the  Raven  of  the  Reynards.  He  made  a  very  flowery  speech 
on  the  occasion,  which  I  answered  in  a  few  words,  accompanied  by  a 
small  present.  I  had  now  given  up  all  hopes  of  my  two  men,  and  was 
about  to  embark,  when  a  p^rroque  arrived,  in  which  they  were  with  a  Mr. 
Blondeau,  and  two  Indians,  whom  that  gentleman  had  engaged  above 
the  rapids  of  Rock  river.  The  soldiers  had  been  six  days  without  any 
thing  to  eat,  except  muscles,  when  they  met  with  Mr.  James  Aird,  by 
whose  humanity  and  attention  their  strength  and  spirits  had  in  a  measure 
been  restored ;  and  they  had  been  enabled  to  reach  the  Reynard  village, 
where  they  met  with  Mr.  B.  The  Indian  chief  furnished  them  with 
corn  and  shoes,  and  showed  his  friendship  by  every  possible  attention. 

*  The  substance  of  the  answers  was,  that  the  mines  were  supposed  to  extend 
about  twenty-seven  leagues  in  length,  and  from  one  to  three  leagues  in  breadth. 
The  ore  yielded  about  75  per  cent,  and  from  20  to  40,000  lbs.  were  annually  formed 
into  pigs. 


36  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

I  immediately  discharged  the  hire  of  the  Indians,  and  gave  Mr.  Blon- 
deau  a  passage  to  the  Prairie  des  Chiens.  Left  the  lead  mines  at  four 
o'clock :  distance  made  this  day,  twenty-five  miles. 

From  the  first  Reynard  village  to  the  lead  mines,  the  Mississippi 
evidently  becomes  narrower,  but  the  navigation  is  thereby  rendered 
much  less  difificult.  The  shores  consist,  in  general,  of  prairie,  which 
if  not  immediately  bordering  on  the  river,  can  be  seen  through  the  thin 
skirts  of  forest  that  in  some  places  line  the  banks ;  the  timber  is  gen- 
erally maple,  birch,  and  oak,  and  the  soil  very  excellent.  To  this  place 
we  have  seen  only  a  few  turkeys  and  deer,  the  latter  of  which  are  pretty 
numerous  from  the  River  Des  Moines. 

Monday,  2d  September. — After  making  two  short  reaches,  we  com- 
menced one  which  is  thirty  miles  in  length ;  the  wind  serving  we  just 
made  it,  and  encamped  on  the  eastern  side,  opposite  to  the  mouth  of 
Turkey  river. 

From  the  lead  mines  to  Turkey  river,  the  Mississippi  continues 
about  the  same  width,  and  the  banks,  soil,  and  productions  are  entirely 
similar.  The  Turkey*  river  empties  in  on  the  west,  bearing  from  the 
Mississippi  about  SW.  and  is  about  one  hundred  yards  wide  at  its  mouth  : 
half  a  league  up  this  river,  on  the  right  bank,  is  the  third  village  of 
the  Reynards,  at  which  place  they  raise  sufficient  corn  to  supply  all  the 
permanent  and  transient  inhabitants  of  the  Prairie  des  Chiens. 

In  the  course  of  this  day  we  landed  to  shoot  pigeons ;  the  moment  a 
gun  was  fired,  some  Indians  who  were  on  the  shore  above  us  ran  down, 
and  put  off  in  their  perroqiies  with  great  precipitation.  Upon  which  Mr. 
Blondeau  informed  me  that  all  the  women  and  children  were  frightened 
at  the  very  name  of  an  American  boat ;  and  that  the  men  held  us  in  great 
respect,  conceiving  us  to  be  very  quarrelsome,  much  disposed  for  war, 
and  at  the  same  time  very  brave.  This  information  I  used  as  prudence 
suggested.     We  stopped  at  an  encampment  about  three  miles  below  the 

*  Between  the  Iowa  and  Turkey  rivers,  you  find  on  the  west  the  Wabisapenkun 
river.  It  runs  parallel  to  the  Red  Cedar  river,  and  has  scarcely  any  wood  on  its 
banks.  The  next  water  we  met  with  was  the  Great  Macottite,  and  a  little  higher  the 
little  river  of  the  same  name.  These  two  streams  appear  to  approach  each  other,  and 
present  nothing  remarkable,  excepting  some  lead  mines  which  are  said  to  exist  on 
their  banks. 


OF  THE   MISSISSIPPI.  37 

town,  where  they  gave  us  some  excellent  plums.  They  despatched  a 
perroque  to  the  village,  to  give  notice,  as  I  supposed,  of  our  arrival.  It 
commenced  raining  about  dusk,  and  rained  all  night.  Distance  advanced, 
forty  miles. 

Tuesday,  September  3d. — Embarked  at  a  pretty  early  hour ;  the 
weather  cloudy.  We  met  two  perroques  of  family  Indians ;  they  at  first 
asked  Mr.  Blondeau,  "  if  we  were  for  war,  or  going  to  war?"  I  now  expe- 
rienced the  good  effect  of  having  some  person  on  board  who  could  speak 
their  language ;  for  they  presented  me  with  three  pair  of  ducks,  and  a 
quantity  of  venison  sufficient  for  all  our  crew  for  one  day  :  in  return,  I 
made  them  some  trifling  presents.  We  afterwards  met  two  perroques  car- 
rying some  of  the  warriors.  They  kept  at  a  good  distance  until  spoken  to 
by  Mr.  B.,  when  they  informed  him  that  their  party  had  proceeded  up  as 
high  as  Lake  Pepin,  without  effecting  anything.  It  is  surprising  what  a 
dread  the  Indians  in  this  quarter  have  of  the  Americans :  I  have  often 
seen  them  go  round  islands  to  avoid  meeting  my  boat.  It  appears  to  me 
evident  that  the  traders  have  taken  great  pains  to  impress  the  minds  of 
the  savages  with  the  idea  of  our  being  a  very  vindictive,  ferocious,  and 
warlike  people.  This  impression  was  made  perhaps  with  no  good  inten- 
tion ;  but  when  they  find  that  our  conduct  towards  them  is  guided  by  mag- 
nanimity and  justice,  instead  of  operating  to  our  prejudice,  it  will  have  the 
effect  of  causing  them  to  respect,  at  the  same  time  that  they  fear  us. 
Distance  advanced  this  day,  twenty-five  miles. 

Wednesday,  September  4. — Breakfasted  just  below  the  Ouisconsin; 
arrived  at  the  Prairie  des  Chiens  about  eleven  o'clock.  Took  quarters 
at  Captain  Fisher's,  and  were  politely  received  by  him  and  Mr.  Frazer. 

Thursday,  5th  September. — Embarked  about  half  past  ten  o'clock  in 
a  Schenactady  boat,  to  go  to  the  mouth  of  the  Ouisconsin,  in  order  to  take 
the  latitude  and  look  at  the  adjacent  hills  for  a  situation  for  a  fort ;  was 
accompanied  by  Judge  Fisher,  Mr.  Frazer,  and  Mr.  Woods.  We  ascended 
the  hill  on  the  western  side  of  the  Mississippi,  and  made  choice  of  a  spot 
which  I  thought  most  eligible,  being  level  on  the  top,  with  a  spring  in  the 
rear,  and  commanding  a  view  of  the  country  around.  A  shower  of  rain 
came  on,  which  completely  wetted  us,  and  we  returned  to  the  village  with- 
out having  ascended  the  Ouisconsin  as  we  had  intended.     I  marked  four 


38  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

trees  with  A.B.C.D.  and  squared  the  sides  of  one  in  the  centre.     Wrote  to 
General  Wilkinson.* 

Friday,  6th  September. — I  held  a  small  council  with  the  Puants,  and  a 
chief  of  the  lower  band  of  the  Sioux.  I  afterwards  visited  and  laid  out  a 
position  for  a  post,  on  a  hill  called  the  Petit  Gris,  on  the  Ouisconsin,  three 
miles  above  its  mouth.  Mr.  Fisher,  who  accompanied  me,  was  taken  very- 
ill,  in  consequence  of  drinking  some  water  out  of  this  river.  The  Puants 
never  have  any  white  interpreters,  nor  have  the  Fols  Avoin  nation.  In 
my  council  I  spoke  to  a  Frenchman,  he  to  a  Sioux,  who  interpreted  to 
some  of  the  Puants. 

My  men  beat  all  the  villagers  here  in  jumping  and  hopping. 

The  Ouisconsin  enters  the  Mississippi  in  latitude  43*^  44'  8"  and  is 
nearly  half  a  mile  wide  at  its  mouth.  It  bears  from  the  Mississippi 
nearly  NE.f    This  river  is  the  grand  source  of  communication  between 

*The  letters  to  General  Wilkinson,  noticed  here  and  elsewhere,  are  omitted,  as 
containing  only  the  official  report  of  what  is  given  in  the  journal. — E. 

f  The  voyage  from  the  Michillimackinac  to  the  Prairie  des  Chiens,  by  the  Ouis- 
consin and  Fox  rivers,  is  as  follows,  viz. : 

"The  distance  between  Michillimackinac  and  the  settlements  at  the  bottom  of 
Green  Bay  is  calculated  to  be  eighty  leagues.  On  leaving  Mackinac,  there  is  a  traverse 
of  five  miles  to  Point  St.  Ignace,  which  is  the  entrance  into  Lake  Michigan;  four 
leagues  from  Mackinac,  is  an  island  of  considerable  extent,  named  St.  Helens,  and  may 
be  seen  from  that  place  in  a  clear  day.  The  shore  from  Mackinac  to  the  Point  au 
Chene,  which  is  a  league  distant  from  the  island,  is  rocky,  and  from  this  to  the  island 
Epouvette,  which  is  a  very  small  one,  and  stands  near  the  banks  of  the  lake,  is  high 
and  covered  with  pine,  the  soil  very  barren.  From  this  island  to  the  river  Meno 
Cockein,  the  distance  is  five  leagues  ;  two  small  islands  occur  on  the  way,  and  a  river 
where  boats  or  canoes  may  take  shelter  in  a  storm.  The  river  Meno  Cockein  is  large 
and  deep,  and  takes  its  rise  near  Lake  Superior.  From  this  to  Shouchoir,  the  distance 
is  ten  leagues ;  the  shore  is  dangerous  from  the  number  of  shoals  that  extend  a  great 
way  into  the  lake.  This  rock,  called  Shouchoir,  forms  an  excellent  harbour  for  canoes. 
The  entrance,  however,  when  the  wind  blows  from  the  lake,  is  difficult,  but  when  once 
in,  canoes  and  boats  may  lie  during  any  storms  without  unlading.  A  custom  prevails 
here  among  the  voyagers  for  every  one  to  have  his  name  carved  on  the  rock  the  first 
time  he  passes,  and  pay  something  to  the  canoe-men.  From  this  to  the  river  Manis- 
tique  the  distance  is  five  leagues  ;  this  is  a  large  river.  The  entrance  is  difficult,  from 
a  sand  bank  at  its  mouth,  and  the  surf  is  very  high  when  the  wind  blows  from  the 
lake ;  at  certain  seasons  sturgeons  are  found  here  in  great  numbers.  The  banks  of 
this  river  are  high  and  sandy,  covered  with  pine.     It  takes  its  rise  from  a  large  lake. 


OF  THE   MISSISSIPPI.  39 

the  Lakes  and  the  Mississippi,  and  is  the  route  by  which  all  the  traders  of 
Michillimackinac  convey  their  goods  for  the  trade  of  the  Mississippi,  from 

and  nearly  communicates  with  Lake  Superior.  From  this  to  the  Detour,  the  distance 
is  ten  leagues  ;  the  shore  rocky,  flat,  and  dangerous.  Here  begins  the  traverse  at  the 
mouth  of  Green  Bay.  The  first  island  is  distant  from  the  main  land  about  a  league, 
and  is  called  the  He  de  Detour,  and  is  at  least  three  leagues  in  circumference.  There 
are  generally  a  few  Sauteaux  lodges  of  Indians  on  this  island  during  the  summer 
months.  From  this  to  He  Brulee,  the  distance  is  three  leagues.  There  are  two  small 
islands  between  these  and  He  Veste,  whence  the  distance  is  two  leagues  to  He  des 
Poux;  so  called  from  Poutowatomies  having  once  had  a  village  here,  which  is  now 
abandoned.  In  the  months  of  May  and  June,  there  is  here  a  fishery  of  trout;  they  are 
taken  in  great  quantities  by  trolling:  there  are  also  white  fish  in  vast  numbers.  The 
ship  channel  is  between  this  island  and  He  Veste;  from  thence  to  Petit  Detroit,  the 
distance  is  three  leagues;  some  lodges  of  Otowas  and  Sauteaux  have  raised  here 
small  quantities  of  corn,  but  their  subsistence  during  the  summer  months  chiefly 
depends  upon  the  quantities  of  sturgeon  and  other  fish  with  which  the  lake  abounds. 
From  Petit  Detroit  to  the  main  land  the  distance  is  three  leagues,  and  is  called  the 
Port  des  Morts,  from  a  number  of  canoes  having  been  wrecked  at  this  place,  where 
every  one  perished;  the  shore  is  bold  and  rocky.  Hence  the  distance  is  four  leagues 
to  the  He  Racro,  which  is  a  safe  harbour,  inaccessible  to  all  winds.  From  hence  to 
Sturgeon  bay  the  distance  is  eight  leagues;  the  shore  is  bold  and  rocky,  and  several 
large  islands  lie  a  few  miles  distant.  A  few  Sauteaux  families  raise  corn  here,  and 
reside  during  the  summer  season;  trout  and  sturgeon  are  found  in  great  numbers. 
Sturgeon  bay  is  two  miles  across,  and  about  four  leagues  in  length,  and  communicates 
by  a  portage  with  Lake  Michigan,  near  Michillimackinac;  distant  from  the  bay  about 
two  leagues,  in  the  He  Vermillion.  There  were  here,  a  few  years  ago,  a  number  of 
Fols  Avoin  inhabitants,  who  were  accustomed  to  raise  corn;  but  why  they  have  left 
this  place  I  cannot  learn.  There  are  thirteen  leagues  from  hence  to  the  entrance  of 
the  Fox  river.  On  leaving  He  Vermillion,  the  woods  and  general  appearance  of  the 
country  begin  to  change,  and  have  a  very  different  aspect;  from  the  northern  parts  of 
this  lake,  a  small  river  called  Riviere  Rouge,  falls  into  the  lake  about  half  way  between 
He  Vermillion  and  La  Baye.  On  approaching  La  Baye,  the  water  of  the  latter  assumes 
a  whiter  appearance,  and  becomes  less  deep.  A  channel  which  winds  a  good  deal 
may  be  found  for  vessels  of  fifty  and  sixty  tons  burden,  and  loaded  vessels  of  these 
dimensions  have  gone  up  the  river  Fox  to  the  French  settlement,  opposite  which  is 
the  Fols  Avoin  village,  which  consists  of  ten  or  twelve  bark  lodges.  A  great  number 
of  Sauteaux  and  some  Otowas  come  here  in  the  spring  and  fall.  Three  leagues  from 
La  Baye  is  a  small  village  of  the  same  nation,  and  another  three  leagues  higher  at  the 
portage  of  Kakalin.  This  portage  is  a  mile  long,  the  ground  even  and  rocky;  there 
is  a  fall  of  about  ten  feet,  which  obstructs  the  navigation  for  three  leagues  higher, 
and  almost  continual  rapids  succeed  as  far  as  the  fall  of  Grand  Konomee,  which  is 
about  five  feet  high;  above  this  the  river  opens  into  a  small  lake,  at  the  end  of  which 


40  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

St.  Louis  to  the  River  de  Corbeau,  and  the  confluent  streams  which  are  in 
those  boundaries. 

is  a  strong  rapid,  called  Puant's  Rapid,  which  issues  from  a  lake  of  that  name.  This 
lake  is  ten  leagues  in  length,  and  from  two  to  three  wide;  at  its  entrance  stands  the 
first  Puant  village,  consisting  of  ten  or  twelve  lodges.  At  the  upper  end  of  the  lake 
stands  another  Puant  village  of  about  the  same  number  of  lodges,  and  at  the  end  of 
this  is  a  small  river,  which,  with  the  intervals  of  a  few  portages,  communicates  with 
Rock  river.  About  midway  between  the  two  Puant  villages,  there  is  a  Fols  Avoin 
village,  on  the  south  side  of  the  lake,  containing  fifty  or  sixty  men.  Five  leagues 
from  the  entrance  of  the  lake  on  the  north  side,  the  Fox  river  falls  in,  and  is  about 
two  hundred  yards  wide:  ascending  two  leagues  higher  there  stands  a  small  Fols 
Avoin  village,  where  there  is  a  lake  of  more  than  two  leagues  in  length;  and  about 
a  league  above  this  lake  the  river  de  Loup  joins  the  Fox  river  near  a  hill  called  the 
Butte  des  Morts,  where  the  Fox  nation  were  nearly  exterminated  by  the  French,  and 
confederated  Indians.  The  river  and  lakes  are  at  certain  seasons  full  of  wild  rice. 
The  country  on  the  borders  of  this  is  finely  diversified  with  woods  and  prairies.  Any 
quantity  of  hay  may  be  made,  and  it  is  as  fine  a  country  for  raising  stock  as  any  in 
the  same  latitude  through  all  America. 

"From  the  Butte  des  Morts  to  the  Lac  Puckaway,  the  distance  is  twenty-eight 
leagues;  there  is  here  another  Puant  village  of  seven  or  eight  large  lodges.  This  lake 
is  three  leagues  in  length:  four  leagues  above  it,  Lac  du  Bceuf  begins,  which  is  also 
four  leagues  long,  and  full  of  wild  rice,  and  a  great  many  fowls  in  their  season.  From 
Lac  du  Boeuf  the  next  stage  is  to  the  Forks,  five  leagues  from  the  Portage  of  the  Ouis- 
consin;  ten  leagues  above  the  Forks,  there  is  a  very  small  lake  called  the  Lac  Vaseux, 
which  is  so  choked  with  wild  rice  as  to  be  almost  impassable.  The  river,  although 
very  winding,  becomes  here  more  and  more  serpentine  on  approaching  the  Portage, 
and  narrows  so  much  as  almost  to  prevent  the  use  of  oars.  The  length  of  the  Port- 
age to  the  Ouisconsin  is  two  miles,  and  when  the  waters  are  high,  canoes  and  boats 
loaded  pass  over. 

"  Here  the  waters  at  such  times  separate,  the  one  part  going  to  the  Gulf  of  Mex- 
ico, and  the  other  to  that  of  St.  Lawrence.  In  wet  seasons  the  Portage  road  is  very 
bad,  the  soil  being  of  a  swampy  nature;  there  is  for  nearly  half  the  way  a  kind  of 
natural  canal,  which  is  sometimes  used;  and  I  think  a  canal  between  the  two  rivers 
might  be  easily  cut.  The  expense  at  present  attending  the  transports  is  one-third  of 
a  dollar  for  one  hundred  weight;  for  a  canoe,  five  dollars;  and  a  boat  eight  dollars; 
but  this  is  not  in  cash,  but  in  goods,  at  the  rate  of  two  hundred  per  cent,  advance  on 
the  sterling  price. 

"There  are  at  present  two  white  men  who  have  establishments  there,  but  they 
are  much  incommoded  by  the  Puants  of  Rock  river,  who  are  troublesome  visitors. 
The  Ouisconsin  is  a  large  river,  its  bottom  sandy,  full  of  islands,  and  sand-bars,  during 
the  summer  season.  The  navigation  is  difficult  even  for  canoes,  owing  tothelowness 
of  the  water;  from  the  Portage  to  its  confluence  with  the  Mississippi  is  sixty  leagues. 


OF  THE    MISSISSIPPI.  41 

The  village  of  the  Prairie  des  Chiens*  is  situated  about  one  league 
above  the  mouth  of  the  Ouisconsin,  on  the  eastern  bank ;  there  is  a  small 
pond,  or  marsh,  which  extends  in  the  direction  of  the  river :  the  town  is  in 
the  front  of  the  marsh  ;  it  consists  of  eighteen  dwelling  houses,  arranged 
in  two  streets;  sixteen  in  Front  street,  and  two  in  First  street.  In  the 
rear  of  the  pond,  are  eight  dwelling  houses ;  some  of  them  are  framed ; 
and  instead  of  weather-boarding,  there  are  small  logs  let  in  mortises,  made 
in  the  uprights,  joined  close,  daubed  on  the  outside  with  clay,  and  hand- 
somely white-washed  within.  The  interior  furniture  of  their  houses  is 
decent,  and  indeed,  in  those  of  the  most  wealthy,  display  a  degree  of  ele- 
gance and  taste. 

There  are  eight  houses  scattered  in  the  country,  at  the  distance  of 
one,  two,  three,  and  five  miles ;  there  are  also,  on  the  western  side  of  the 
Mississippi,  three  houses  situated  on  a  small  stream,  called  Giard  river, 
making  in  the  village  and  vicinity  thirty-seven  houses,  which  it  will  not  be 
too  much  to  calculate  at  ten  persons  each,  making  the  population  three 
hundred  and  seventy  souls ;  but  this  calculation  will  not  answer  for  the 
spring  or  autumn,  as  there  are  at  those  seasons  at  least  five  or  six  hundred 
white  persons  resident  here  :  this  is  owing  to  the  concourse  of  traders  and 
their  engagers  from  Michillimackinac,  and  other  parts,  who  make  this 
their  last  stage  previous  to  their  launching  into  the  savage  wilderness : 
they  again  meet  here  in  the  spring  on  their  return  from  their  wintering 
grounds,  accompanied  by  three  hundred  or  four  hundred  Indians ;  when 

The  Jacques  and  Reynards  formerly  lived  on  its  banks,  but  were  driven  off  by  the 
Sauteaux.  They  were  accustomed  to  raise  a  good  deal  of  corn  and  beans,  the  soil 
being  excellent.  Opposite  to  the  Detour  du  Pin,  half  way  from  the  Portage  on  the 
south  side,  are  lead  mines,  said  to  be  the  best  in  any  part  of  the  country,  and  may  be 
wrought  with  great  ease.  Boats  of  more  than  four  tons  are  improper  for  the  com- 
munication between  the  Mississippi  and  Michillimackinac." 

"Dickson." 

*  The  present  village  of  the  Prairie  des  Chiens  was  first  settled  in  the  year  1783, 
and  the  settlers  were  Mr.  Giard,  Mr.  Antaya,  and  Mr.  Dubuque.  The  old  village  is 
about  a  mile  below  the  present,  and  had  existed  during  the  time  the  French  were  in 
possession  of  the  country.  It  derives  its  name  from  a  family  of  the  Reynards,  who 
formerly  lived  there,  distinguished  by  the  appellation  of  dogs.  The  present  village 
was  settled  under  the  English  government,  and  the  ground  was  purchased  from  the 
Reynard  Indians. 


42  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

they  hold  a  fair,  the  one  to  dispose  of  the  remainder  of  their  goods,  and 
the  others  their  reserved  peltries.  It  is  astonishing  that  there  are  not 
more  murders  and  affrays  at  this  place,  such  a  heterogeneous  mass  assem- 
bling here  to  trade,  and  the  use  of  spirituous  liquors  being  in  no  manner 
restricted ;  but  since  the  American  government  has  become  known,  such 
accidents  take  place  much  less  frequent  than  they  used  to  do  before. 

The  prairie  on  which  the  village  is  situated  is  bounded  in  the  rear 
by  high  bald  hills,  and  extends  about  eight  miles  from  the  Mississippi  to 
where  it  strikes  the  Ouisconsin,  at  the  Petit  Gris,  which  bears  from  the 
village  SE.  by  E.  If  the  marsh  were  drained  (which  might  be  easily 
done),  I  am  of  opinion  the  situation  of  the  prairie  would  be  rendered 
healthy ;  the  inhabitants  are  now  subject  to  intermittent  fevers  in  the  spring 
and  autumn. 

There  are  a  few  gentlemen  who  reside  at  the  Prairie  des  Chiens,  and 
many  other  persons  who  claim  that  appellation ;  but  the  rivalship  of  the 
Indian  trade  occasioned  them  to  commit  acts  at  their  wintering  quarters 
which  they  would  blush  to  be  thought  guilty  of  in  the  civilized  world. 
They  possess,  however,  the  spirit  of  generosity  and  hospitality  in  an  emi- 
nent degree,  but  this  is  the  leading  feature  in  the  character  of  the  frontier 
inhabitants ;  their  mode  of  living  had  obliged  them  to  have  temporary 
connection  with  the  Indian  women  ;  and  what  was  at  first  policy,  is  now  so 
confirmed  by  habit  and  inclination,  that  it  has  become  (with  a  few  excep- 
tions) the  ruling  practice  of  all  the  traders ;  and  in  fact  almost  one-half 
the  inhabitants  under  twenty  years  of  age  have  the  blood  of  the  Abor- 
igines in  their  veins. 

Sunday,  8th  September. — Having  the  day  before  begun  to  load  my 
two  new  boats,  which  I  had  procured  as  better  adapted  for  the  prosecution 
of  the  voyage,  I  embarked  at  half  past  eleven  o'clock,  the  wind  fair  and 
fresh.  I  found  myself  very  much  embarrassed  and  cramped  in  my  new 
boats,  with  the  provisions  and  baggage.  I  embarked  two  interpreters,  one 
to  perform  the  whole  voyage,  whose  name  was  Pierre  Rosseau ;  and  the 
other,  named  Joseph  Reinville,  paid  by  Mr.  Frazer,  to  accompany  me  as  high 
as  the  falls  of  St.  Anthony.  Mr.  Frazer  is  a  clerk  to  Mr.  Blackler  of  Mon- 
treal ;  he  was  born  in  Vermont,  but  has  latterly  resided  in  Canada.  To 
the  attention  of  this  gentleman  I  am  much  indebted;  he  procured  me  every- 
thing in  his  power  that  I  stood  in  need  of. 


OF  THE   MISSISSIPPI.  43 

Mr.  Frazer  despatched  his  bark  canoes,  and  remained  himself  to  go 
on  with  me — his  design  was  to  winter  with  some  of  the  Sioux  bands.  We 
sailed  well,  proceeded  eighteen  miles,  and  encamped  on  the  western  bank. 

I  must  not  omit  here  to  bear  my  testimony  to  the  politeness  of  all  the 
principal  inhabitants  of  the  village. 

Monday,  9th  September. — Dined  at  Cape  Gartie,  or  at  Gartie  river, 
after  which  we  proceeded  to  an  island  on  the  eastern  side,  about  five  miles 
below  the  River  Iowa,  where  we  encamped.  The  Iowa  river  is  about  one 
hundred  miles  wide  at  its  mouth,  and  bears  from  the  Mississippi,  about 
NW.     Distance  advanced,  twenty-eight  miles. 

Tuesday,  loth  September. — The  rain  still  continuing,  we  remained  at 
our  camp — having  shot  at  some  pigeons,  the  report  was  heard  at  the  Sioux 
lodges;*  when  Le  Feuille,  a  chief  of  this  nation,  sent  down  six  of  his 
young  men  to  inform  me,  "that  he  had  waited  three  days  with  meat,  &c., 
but  that  last  night  he  had  begun  to  drink,  and  that  on  the  next  day,  he 
would  receive  me  with  his  people  sober."  I  returned  for  answer,  "  that 
the  season  was  far  advanced,  that  time  was  passing,  and  if  the  rain  ceased 
I  must  proceed."  Mr.  Frazer  and  the  interpreter  went  home  with  the 
Indians.  We  embarked  about  one  o'clock ;  Mr.  Frazer  returning,  informed 
me  that  the  chief  acquiesced  in  my  reasons  for  pressing  forward  ;  but  that 
he  had  prepared  a  pipe  (instead  of  a  letter),  to  present  me,  to  shew  to  all 
the  other  bands  of  the  Sioux  above,  with  a  message  to  inform  them  that 
I  was  a  chief  of  their  new  father's,  and  that  he  wished  us  to  be  treated 
with  friendship  and  respect.  On  our  arrival  opposite  to  the  lodges,  the 
men  were  paraded  on  the  bank  with  their  guns  in  their  hands.  They 
saluted  (with  ball)  with  what  might  be  termed  three  rounds,  which  I 
returned  with  three  rounds  from  each  boat  with  my  blunderbusses.  This 
salute,  although  nothing  to  soldiers  accustomed  to  fire,  would  not  be  so 
agreeable  to  many  people,  as  the  Indians  had  all  been  drinking,  and  some 
of  them  even  tried  their  dexterity  to  see  how  near  the  boat  they  could 
strike ;  they  may  indeed  be  said  to  have  struck  on  every  side  of  us.  When 
I  landed,  I  had  my  pistols  in  my  belt  and  sword  in  hand.  I  was  met  on 
the  bank  by  the  chief  and  invited  to  his  lodge  ;  as  soon  as  my  guards  were 
formed  and  sentinels  posted,  I  accompanied  him.  Some  of  my  men  who 
were  to  attend  me  I  caused  to  leave  their  arms  behind,  as  a  mark  of 
*  The  same  I  had  spoken  to,  on  the  6th,  on  the  Prairie  des  Chiens. 


44  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

confidence.  At  the  chief's  lodge  I  found  a  clean  mat  and  pillow  pro- 
vided for  me  to  sit  upon  ;  and  the  before-mentioned  pipe,  on  a  pair  of 
small  crutches,  was  placed  before  me.  The  chief  sat  on  my  right  hand, 
my  interpreter  and  Mr.  Frazer  on  my  left.  After  smoking,  the  chief 
spoke  to  the  following  purport : 

"  That  notwithstanding  he  had  seen  me  at  the  prairie,  he  was  happy 
to  take  me  by  the  hand  amongst  his  own  people,  and  there  to  shew  his 
young  men  the  respect  due  to  their  '  new  father  :'  that  when  at  St.  Louis 
in  the  spring  his  father  had  told  him,  that  if  he  looked  down  the  river  he 
would  see  one  of  his  young  warriors  coming  up  ;  he  now  found  it  true, 
and  he  was  happy  to  see  me,  who  knew  the  Great  Spirit  was  the  father  of 
all,  both  the  white  and  the  red  people,  and  if  one  died  the  other  could 
not  live  long.  That  he  had  never  been  at  war  with  their  new  father,  and 
hoped  always  to  preserve  the  same  good  understanding  that  now  existed. 
That  he  now  presented  me  with  a  pipe  to  shew  to  the  upper  bands,  as  a 
token  of  our  good  understanding  ;  and  that  they  might  see  his  work  and 
imitate  his  conduct.  That  he  had  gone  to  St.  Louis  on  a  shameful  visit, 
to  carry  a  murderer ;  but  that  we  had  given  the  fellow  his  life,  and  he 
thanked  us  for  it.  That  he  had  provided  something  to  eat,  but  he  sup- 
posed I  could  not  eat  it  myself,  and  if  not,  desired  I  might  give  it  to  my 
young  men."  I  replied,  "  that  although  I  had  told  him  at  the  prairie  my 
business  up  the  Mississippi,  I  would  again  relate  it  to  him  :  I  mentioned 
the  different  objects  I  had  in  view  with  regard  to  the  savages  who  had 
fallen  under  our  protection  by  our  late  purchase  from  the  Spaniards; 
the  dififerent  posts  to  be  established;  the  objects  of  these  posts  as  they 
related  to  them  ;  supplying  them  with  necessaries,  having  officers  and 
agents  of  government  near  them  to  attend  to  their  business;  and,  above 
all,  to  endeavour  to  make  peace  between  the  Sioux  and  Sauteurs.  That 
it  was  possible  on  my  return  I  should  bring  some  of  the  Sauteurs  down 
with  me,  and  take  some  of  the  Sioux  chiefs  to  St.  Louis,  there  to  settle 
the  long  and  bloody  contest  which  had  existed  between  the  two  nations. 
That  I  accepted  his  pipe  with  pleasure  as  the  gift  of  a  great  man  *  and  a 
brother.     That  it  should  be  used  as  he  desired." 

I  then  ate  of  the  dinner  he  had  provided.     It  was  very  grateful.     It 
consisted  of  wild  rye  and  venison,  of  which  I  sent  four  bowls  to  my  men. 

*  He  is  the  chief  of  four  bands. 


OF  THE   MISSISSIPPI.  '  45 

I  afterwards  went  to  a  dance,  the  performance  of  which  was  attended 
with  many  curious  manoeuvres.  Men  and  women  danced  indiscriminately. 
They  were  all  dressed  in  the  gayest  manner ;  each  had  in  their  hand  a 
small  skin  of  some  description  :  they  frequently  ran  up,  pointed  their 
skin,  and  gave  a  puff  with  their  breath,  when  the  person  blown  at, 
whether  man  or  woman,  would  fall  and  appear  to  be  almost  lifeless,  or  in 
great  agony  ;  but  would  recover  slowly,  rise,  and  join  in  the  dance.  This 
they  called  their  great  medicine,  or,  as  I  understood  the  word,  the  dance 
of  religion,  the- Indians  believing  that  they  actually  puffed  something  into 
each  others  bodies,  which  occasioned  the  falling,  &c.  Every  person  is  not 
admitted  to  take  a  part :  they  who  wish  to  join  them  must  first  make 
valuable  presents  to  the  society,  to  the  amount  of  forty  or  fifty  dollars, 
and  give  a  feast ;  they  are  then  admitted  with  great  ceremony.  Mr.  Frazer 
informed  me  that  he  was  once  in  the  lodge  with  some  young  men  who 
did  not  belong  to  the  club,  when  one  of  their  dancers  coming  in,  they 
immediately  threw  their  blankets  over  him  and  forced  him  out  of  the 
lodge.  Mr.  F.  laughed  at  them,  and  the  young  Indians  called  him  a  fool, 
and  said  "  he  did  not  know  what  the  dancer  might  blow  into  his  body." 

Having  returned  to  my  boat,  I  sent  for  the  chief,  and  presented  him 
with  two  carrots  of  tobacco,  four  knives,  half  a  pound  of  vermillion,  and 
one  quart  of  salt.  Mr.  Frazer  asked  leave  to  present  them  with  some 
rum;  we  made  them  up  a  keg  between  us  of  eight  gallons.*  Frazer 
informed  the  chief  that  he  durst  not  give  them  any  without  my  permis- 
sion. The  chief  thanked  me  for  all  my  presents,  and  said,  "  they  must 
come  free  as  he  did  not  ask  for  them."  I  replied,  "  that  to  those  who  did 
not  ask  for  anything,  I  gave  freely  ;  but  to  those  who  asked  much,  I  gave 
only  little  or  none." 

We  embarked  about  half  past  three,  proceeded  three  miles,  and 
encamped  on  the  western  side.  Mr.  Frazer  we  left  behind,  but  he  came 
up  with  his  two  perroques  about  dusk.  By  this  time  it  commenced  rain- 
ing very  hard.  In  the  night  a  perroque  arrived  from  the  lodges.  During 
our  stay  at  their  camp  there  were  soldiers  appointed  to  keep  the  crowd 
from  my  boats,  who  executed  their  duty  with  vigilance  and  vigour,  driv- 
ing men,  women  and  children  back  whenever  they  approached.  At  my 
departure  their  soldiers  said,   "  as  I  had    shaken  hands  with  their  chief, 

*  Two  gallons  whiskey. 


46  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

they  must  shake  hands  with  my  soldiers."  In  which  request  I  wilHngly 
indulged  them. 

Wednesday,  nth  September. — Embarked  at  seven  o'clock,  although 
raining.  Mr.  Frazer's  canoes  also  came  on  until  nine  o'clock.  Stopped 
for  breakfast,  and  made  a  fire.  Mr.  Frazer  staid  with  me,  and  finding  his 
perroques  not  quite  able  to  keep  up,  he  despatched  them.  We  resumed 
our  voyage,  proceeded  until  near  six  o'clock,  and  encamped  on  the  west- 
ern side  :  we  saw  nothing  of  his  perroques  after  they  left  us.  I  computed 
that  we  advanced  sixteen  miles  this  day,  rain  and  cold  winds  the  whole 
time  ahead.  The  river  has  never  been  clear  of  islands  since  I  left  Prairie 
des  Chiens.  I  believe  it  to  be  here  two  miles  wide  ;  hills,  or  rather  prairie 
knobs,  on  both  sides. 

Thursday,  12th  September. — It  raining  very  hard  in  the  morning,  we 
did  not  embark  until  ten  o'clock,  Mr.  Frazer's  perroques  then  coming  up. 
It  was  still  raining,  and  very  cold.  We  passed  the  Root  river,  which,  at 
its  junction  with  the  Mississippi,  is  twenty  yards  wide,  bearing  from  it 
nearly  west,  and  is  navigable  for  canoes  about  sixty  miles.  Opposite  to 
Root  river  we  passed  a  prairie  called  La  Crosse,  from  a  game  of  ball 
played  frequently  on  it  by  the  Sioux  Indians.  This  prairie  is  very  hand- 
some ;  it  has  a  small  square  hill,  similar  to  some  mentioned  by  Carver.  It 
is  bounded  in  the  rear  by  hills  like  the  Prairie  des  Chiens.  On  this 
prairie  Mr.  Frazer  shewed  me  some  holes  dug  by  the  Sioux  when  in 
expectation  of  an  attack,  into  which  they  first  put  their  women  and  chil- 
dren, and  then  crawl  in  themselves  ;  they  were  generally  round,  about  ten 
feet  in  diameter,  but  some  were  half  moons,  and  formed  quite  a  breast- 
work. This,  I  understand,  was  the  chief's  work,  which  was  the  principal 
redoubt.  Their  mode  of  constructing;  them  is  as  follows  :  the  moment 
they  apprehend,  or  discover,  an  enemy  on  a  prairie,  they  commence  dig- 
ging with  their  knives,  tomahawks,  and  a  wooden  ladle,  and  in  an  incred- 
ibly short  space  of  time  sink  a  hole  sufficiently  capacious  to  secure  them- 
selves and  their  families  from  the  balls  or  arrows  of  the  enemy.  They 
have  no  idea  of  taking  these  subterranean  redoubts  by  storm,  as  they 
would  probably  lose  a  great  number  of  men  in  the  attack ;  and  although 
they  might  be  successful  in  the  event,  it  would  be  considered  as  a  very 
imprudent  action. 


OF  THE    MISSISSIPPI.  47 

Mr.  Frazer,  finding  his  canoes  not  able  to  keep  up,  staid  at  this 
prairie  to  organize  one  of  them,  intending  then  to  overtake  us.  Advanced 
three  miles  farther. 

Friday,  13th  September. — Embarked  at  six  o'clock:  came  to  a  sand 
bar,  and  stopped  to  dry  my  things.  At  this  place  Mr.  Frazer  overtook 
me.  We  remained  here  three  hours :  we  afterwards  proceeded  together, 
and  passed  the  mouth  of  Black  river,  entering  the  Mississippi  from  the 
east.  It  is  of  considerable  size,  and  Indian  traders  have  ventured  one 
hundred  and  twenty  miles  up  its  course.  We  had  rain  all  day,  except 
about  two  hours  at  noon.     Distance  advanced,  twenty-one  miles. 

Saturday,  14th  September. — ^We  embarked  early ;  the  fog  was  so 
thick  we  could  not  distinguish  objects  twenty  yards  distant.  When  we 
breakfasted  we  saw  nothing  of  Mr.  Frazer's  canoes  ;  but  after  breakfast, 
at  the  head  of  an  island,  we  met  Frazer's  boat.  The  wind  coming  on 
fair  we  hoisted  sail,  and  found  that  we  were  more  on  an  equality  with 
our  sails  than  our  oars.  The  birch  canoes  sailed  very  well,  but  we  were 
able  to  out-row  them.  We  now  met  the  remainder  of  the  war  party  (before 
mentioned)  of  the  Sacs  and  Reynards,  returning  from  their  expedition 
against  the  Sauteurs.  I  directed  my  interpreter  to  ask  how  many  scalps 
they  had  taken ;  they  replied  none :  he  added,  they  were  all  squaws,  for 
which  I  reprimanded  him.  We  now  passed  the  mountain  which  stands 
in  the  river,  called  by  the  French  "the  mountain  which  soaks  in  the  river." 
We  proceeded  on  to  the  Prairie  I'Aile,  on  the  west.  Mr.  Frazer,  Bradley, 
Sparks,  and  myself,  went  out  to  hunt ;  we  crossed  first  a  dry  flat  prairie ; 
when  we  arrived  at  the  hills  we  ascended  them,  and  had  a  most  sublime 
and  beautiful  prospect.  On  the  right  we  saw  the  mountains  which  we 
had  passed  in  the  morning,  and  the  prairie  in  the  rear ;  and,  like  distant 
clouds,  the  mountains  at  the  Prairie  de  la  Crosse.  On  our  left,  and  under 
our  feet,  the  valley  between  the  two  barren  hills,  through  which  the  Mis- 
sissippi winds  in  numerous  channels,  forming  many  beautiful  islands,  as 
far  as  the  eye  could  embrace  the  scene.  Our  four  boats  under  full  sail, 
their  flags  streaming  before  the  wind,  formed  altogether  a  prospect  so 
variegated  and  romantic  as  one  may  scarcely  expect  to  enjoy  more  than 
twice  or  thrice  in  the  course  of  his  life.  I  proposed  keeping  the  hills  until 
they  led  to  the  river,  encamping,  and  waiting  the  next  day  for  our  boats; 
but  Mr.  Frazer's  anxiety  to  get  to  the  boats  induced  me  to  yield,  and  after 


48  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

crossing  a  very  thick  bottom,  fording  and  swimming  three  branches  of 
the  river,  and  traversing  several  morasses,  we,  at  twelve  o'clock,  arrived 
opposite  our  boats,  which  were  moored  on  the  eastern  side ;  we  were  con- 
veyed over  to  them.  We  saw  frequent  signs  of  elk,  but  had  not  the  good 
fortune  to  come  across  any  of  them :  my  men  saw  three  on  the  shore. 
Distance  advanced,  twenty-one  miles. 

Sunday,  15th  September. — Embarked  early;  passed  the  River  Embar- 
rass and  Clear  river,  which  enter  on  the  west,  the  former  of  which  is  nav- 
igable one  hundred  and  thirty-five  miles;  encamped  opposite  to  Buffaloe 
river  on  the  western  shore.  This  stream,  at  the  head  of  which  the  Chip- 
peways  reside,  is  navigable  for  perroques  forty-five  or  fifty  leagues.  On 
the  eastern  shore,  the  river  de  la  Prairie  de  la  Crosse  empties  itself  into 
the  Mississippi,  at  the  head  of  that  prairie.  It  is  about  twenty  yards 
wide,  and  bears  N.NW. 

Mr.  Frazer  broke  one  of  his  canoes,  in  consequence  of  which  he  did 
not  come  on  as  far  as  our  encampment  by  three  miles.  Distance  advanced, 
twenty-five  miles. 

Monday,  i6th  September. — Embarked  late,  as  I  wished  Mr.  Frazer  to 
overtake  me,  but  came  on  very  well.  His  canoes  overtook  us  at  dinner, 
at  the  grand  encampment  below  Lake  Pepin.  We  made  the  sandy  penin- 
sula on  the  east  by  dusk,  when  we  passed  the  Sauteaux  or  Chippeway 
river,  at  the  entrance  of  the  lake.  This  river  is  at  least  half  a  mile  wide, 
and  appears  a  deep  and  majestic  stream ;  it  bears  from  the  Mississippi 
nearly  due  north.  Some  distance  up  it  is  scarcely  to  be  distinguished  from 
the  Ouisconsin  ;  it  has  a  communication  with  the  Montreal  river  by  a  short 
passage,  and  by  this  river  with  Lake  Superior.  The  agents  of  the  new 
West  India  Company  supply  the  Fols  Avoins  and  Sauteaux,  who  reside 
at  the  head  of  this  river,  and  those  of  the  Michillimackinac,  and  also  the 
Sioux  who  hunt  pn  its  lower  waters. 

In  the  division  of  the  Mississippi  which  we  had  passed  from  La  Prai- 
rie des  Chiens,  the  shores  are  more  than  three-quarters  prairie  on  both 
sides,  or,  more  properly  speaking,  bald  hills,  which,  instead  of  running  par- 
allel with  the  river,  form  a  continual  succession  of  high  perpendicular 
cliffs  and  low  valleys  ;  they  appear  to  head  the  river  and  to  traverse  the 
country  in  an  angular  direction.  These  'lills  and  valleys  exhibit  some  of 
the  most  romantic  and  sublime  views  I  ever  saw  ;  but  this  irregular  scenery 


OT  THE   MISSISSIPPI.  49 

is  sometimes  interrupted  by  a  wide  extended  plain,  which  brings  to  mind 
the  verdant  lawn  of  civilized  regions,  and  would  almost  induce  the  traveller 
to  imagine  himself  in  the  centre  of  a  highly  cultivated  plantation.  The 
timber  of  this  division  is  generally  birch,  elm,  and  cotton  wood,  all  the 
cliffs  being  bordered  by  cedars. 

The  navigation,  as  far  as  the  Iowa  river,  is  good,  but  from  thence  to 
the  Sauteaux  river  is  very  much  obstructed  by  islands.  In  some  places  the 
Mississippi  is  uncommonly  wide,  and  divided  into  many  small  channels, 
which,  from  the  cliffs,  appear  like  so  many  distinct  rivers,  winding  in  a  par- 
allel course  through  the  same  immense  valley.  But  there  are  few  sand  bars 
in  those  narrow  channels ;  the  soil  being  rich,  the  water  cuts  through  it 
with  facility. 

"The  mountain  which  soaks  in  the  river"  stands  in  the  Mississippi, 
near  the  eastern  shore,  about  fifty  miles  below  the  Sauteaux  river,  and  is 
about  two  miles  in  circumference,  with  an  elevation  of  two  hundred  feet, 
covered  with  timber.  There  is  a  small  river  that  empties  into  the  Missis- 
sippi in  the  rear  of  the  mountain,  which,  I  conceive,  once  bounded  it  on 
the  lower  side,  while  the  Mississippi  formed  its  upper  boundary,  the  mount- 
ain being  then  joined  to  the  main  by  a  neck  of  prairie  low  grounds,  which 
in  time  was  worn  away  by  the  spring  freshes  of  the  Mississippi,  and  thus 
forming  an  island  of  this  celebrated  spot. 

Lake  Pepin  (so  called  from  the  French)  appears  to  be  only  an  expan- 
sion of  the  Mississippi.  It  commences  at  the  entrance  of  the  Sauteaux 
river,  and  bears  N.  55.  W.  twelve  miles,  to  Point  de  Sable,  which  is  a  neck 
of  land  projecting  about  one  mile  into  the  lake  from  the  western  shore, 
and  is  the  narrowest  part  of  the  lake ;  from  hence  to  the  upper  end  of  the 
course  it  stretches  nearly  due  west,  about  ten  miles,  making  its  whole 
length  twenty-two  miles,  and  from  four  to  one  and  a  half  miles  in  width, 
the  broadest  part  being  in  the  bay  below  Point  de  Sable.  This  is  a  beau- 
tiful place  ;  the  contrast  of  the  Mississippi,  full  of  islands,  and  the  lake  with 
not  one  in  its  whole  extent,  gives  more  force  to  the  grandeur  of  the  scene. 
The  French,  under  the  government  of  M.  Frontenac,  drove  the  Reynards 
(or  Ottiquamies)  from  the  Ouisconsin,  and  pursuing  them  up  the  Missis- 
sippi, built  as  a  barrier  a  stockade  on  Lake  Pepin  on  the  western  shore, 
below  Point  de  Sable,  and,  as  was  generally  the  case  with  that  nation, 
blended  the  military  and  mercantile  professions  by  making  their  fort  a 


50  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

factory  for  the  Sioux.  The  lake  at  the  upper  end  is  three  fathoms  deep,  but 
I  am  informed  this  is  its  shallowest  part.  From  the  Iowa  river  to  the 
head  of  Lake  Pepin,  the  elk  is  the  prevailing  species  of  wild  game,  with 
some  deer  and  a  few  bear.  By  observation  I  found  the  head  of  Lake  Pepin 
to  be  in  latitude  44°  58'  8". 

After  supper,  the  wind  being  fair,  we  put  off,  with  the  intention  to 
sail  across  the  lake  ;  my  interpreter  (Rosseau)  telling  me  that  he  had 
passed  it  twenty  times,  but  never  once  by  day,  giving  as  a  reason  that  the 
wind  frequently  rose  and  detained  them  in  the  day-time  on  the  water.  But 
I  believe  the  traders'  only  reason,  generally,  is  their  fear  of  the  Sauteurs, 
as  they  have  made  several  strokes  of  war  at  the  mouth  of  this  river,  never 
distinguishing  between  the  Sioux  and  their  traders.  However,  the  wind 
serving,  I  was  induced  to  proceed ;  my  boat  bringing  up  the  rear,  for  I 
had  put  the  sail  of  my  big  boat  on  my  batteau,  and  a  mast  of  twenty-two 
feet.  Mr.  Frazer  embarked  in  my  boat.  At  first  the  breeze  was  very 
gentle,  and  we  sailed  with  our  violins  and  other  instruments  playing  ;  but 
the  sky  afterwards  became  cloudy,  and  the  wind  blew  quite  a  gale.  My 
boat  ploughed  the  swells,  sometimes  almost  bows  under.  When  we  came 
to  the  traverse,  which  is  opposite  to  Point  de  Sable,  we  thought  it  most 
advisable,  the  lake  being  very  much  disturbed  and  the  gale  increasing,  to 
take  harbour  in  a  bay  on  the  east.  One  of  the  canoes  and  my  boat  came 
in  very  well,  and  together,  but  having  made  a  fire  on  the  point,  to  give 
notice  to  the  boats  in  the  rear,  they  both  ran  on  the  bar  before  they 
doubled  it,  and  were  near  foundering  ;  by  jumping  into  the  lake,  however, 
we  brought  them  to  a  safe  harbour.     Distance  advanced,  forty  miles. 

Tuesday,  1 7th  September. —  Although  there  was  every  appearance  of 
a  very  severe  storm,  we  embarked  at  half  past  six  o'clock,  the  wind  fair; 
but  before  we  had  all  hoisted  sail,  those  in  front  had  struck  theirs.  The 
wind  came  on  hard  ahead,  the  sky  became  inflamed,  and  the  lightning 
seemed  to  roll  down  the  sides  of  the  hills  which  bordered  the  shore.  The 
storm  in  all  its  grandeur,  majesty  and  horror  burst  upon  us  in  the 
traverse,  while  making  for  Point  de  Sable,  and  it  required  no  moderate 
exertion  to  weather  the  point  and  get  to  the  windward  side.  Here  we 
found  Mr.  Cameron,  who  had  sailed  from  the  prairie  on  the  fifth ;  he  had 
three  barks  and  one  wooden  canoe  with  him.  He  had  been  lying  here 
two  days,  his  canoes  unloaded  and  turned  up  for  the  habitation  of  his 


OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.  51 

men,  his  tents  pitched,  and  living  in  all  the  ease  of  an  Indian  trader.  He 
appeared  to  be  a  man  of  tolerable  information,  but  rather  indolent  in  his 
habits  ;  a  Scotchman  by  birth,  but  an  Englishman  by  prejudice.  He  had 
with  him  a  young  man  of  the  name  of  John  Rudsdell,  and  also  his  own 
son,  a  lad  of  fifteen. 

The  storm  continuing,  we  remained  here  all  day.  I  was  shown  a 
point  of  rocks  from  which  a  Sioux  woman  cast  herself  and  was  dashed 
into  a  thousand  pieces  on  the  rocks  below  :  she  had  been  informed  that 
her  friends  intended  marrying  her  to  a  man  she  despised  ;  and  having 
refused  her  the  man  she  had  chosen,  she  ascended  the  hill  singing  her 
death  song,  and  before  they  could  overtake  her,  and  frustrate  her  purpose, 
took  the  lover's  leap  and  ended  her  troubles  with  her  life  —  a  wonderful 
display  of  sentiment  in  a  savage  !     Distance  advanced,  three  miles. 

Wednesday,  i8th  September. —  Embarked  after  breakfast.  Mr.  Cam- 
eron with  his  boats  came  on  with  me  ;  crossed  the  lake,  sounded  it,  and 
took  an  observation  at  the  upper  end.  I  embarked  in  one  of  Mr.  C.'s 
canoes,  and  we  came  up  to  Canoe  river,  where  there  was  a  small  band 
of  Sioux,  under  the  command  of  Red  Wing,  the  second  war  chief  in  the 
nation.  He  made  me  a  speech,  and  presented  a  pipe,  pouch,  and  buffaloe 
skin.  He  appeared  to  be  a  man  of  sense,  and  promised  to  accompany  me 
to  Saint  Peter's.  He  saluted  me,  and  had  his  salute  returned.  I  made 
him  a  small  present.  We  encamped  on  theendof  the  island,  and  although 
not  more  than  eleven  o'clock,  were  obliged  to  stay  all  night.  Distance 
advanced,  eighteen  miles. 

Thursday,  K^th.  September.  —  Embarked  early,  and  dined  at  the  St. 
Croix  river.  Messrs.  Frazer  and  Cameron  having  some  business  to  trans- 
act with  the  savages,  we  left  them  at  the  encampment ;  but  they  prom- 
ised to  overtake  me,  though  they  should  be  obliged  to  travel  till  twelve 
o'clock  at  night.  Fired  a  blunderbuss  for  them  at  Tattoo.  The  chain  of 
my  watch  became  unhooked,  by  lending  her  to  my  guard  :  this  was  a  very 
serious  misfortune. 

Friday,  20th  September.  —  Embarked  after  sun  rise ;  cloudy  with 
hard  wind ;  a  small  shower  of  rain  :  cleared  up  in  the  afternoon,  and 
became  pleasant.  Encamped  on  a  prairie  on  the  eastern  side,  on  which  is 
a  large  painted  stone,  about  eight  miles  below  the  Sioux  village.  The 
traders  had  not  yet  overtaken  me.     Distance  advanced,  twenty-six  miles. 


52  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

Saturday,  21st  September.  —  Embarked  at  a  seasonable  hour,  break- 
fasted at  the  Sioux  village,  on  the  eastern  side.  It  consists  of  eleven 
lodges,  and  is  situated  at  the  head  of  an  island,  just  below  a  ledge  of  rocks. 
The  village  was  deserted  at  this  time,  all  the  Indians  having  gone  out  upon 
the  lands  to  gather  Fols  Avoin.  About  two  miles  above,  saw  three  bears 
swimming  over  the  river,  but  at  too  great  a  distance  for  us  to  kill  one  of 
them  ;  they  made  the  shore  before  I  could  come  up  with  them.  Passed  a 
camp  of  Sioux,  of  four  lodges,  in  which  I  saw  only  one  man,  whose  name 
was  Black  Soldier.  The  garrulity  of  the  women  astonished  me,  for  at  the 
other  camps  they  never  opened  their  lips  ;  but  here  they  flocked  around 
us  with  all  their  tongues  going  at  the  same  time.  The  cause  of  this  free- 
dom must  have  been  the  absence  of  their  lords  and  masters.  We  passed 
the  encampment  of  Mr.  Fenebault,  who  had  broken  his  perroque,  and  had 
encamped  on  the  western  side  of  the  river,  about  three  miles  below  St. 
Peter's.  We  made  our  encampment  on  the  north  east  point  of  the  Big 
island,  opposite  to  St.  Peter's.  The  Mississippi  became  so  very  narrow 
this  day,  that  I  once  crossed  it  in  mybatteau  with  forty  strokes  of  my  oars. 

The  water  of  the  Mississippi,  since  we  passed  Lake  Pepin,  has  been 
remarkably  red,  and  where  it  is  deep  appears  as  black  as  ink.  The  waters 
of  the  St.  Croix  and  St.  Peter's  appear  blue  and  clear  for  a  considerable 
distance  below  their  confluence. 

From  the  head  of  Lake  Pepin,  for  about  twelve  miles  to  the  Cannon 
river,  the  Mississippi  branches  into  many  channels,  and  is  speckled  with 
numerous  islands.  There  is  a  hill  on  the  western  shore,  about  six  miles 
above  the  lake,  called  the  Grange  ;  from  the  summit  of  which,  you  have 
one  of  the  most  delightful  prospects  in  nature.  When  turning  to  the 
east,  you  have  the  river  winding  in  three  channels  at  your  feet ;  on 
the  right,  the  extensive  bosom  of  the  lake,  bounded  by  its  chain  of  hills  ; 
in  front,  over  the  Mississippi,  a  wide  extended  prairie ;  on  the  left,  the 
valley  of  the  Mississippi,  open  to  view  quite  to  the  St.  Croix  ;  and  partly 
in  your  rear,  the  valley  through  which  passes  the  Cannon  river.  When  I 
viewed  it,  on  one  of  the  islands  below  appeared  the  spotted  lodges  of  the 
Red  Wing's  band  of  Sioux,  the  white  tents  of  the  traders  and  my  soldiers, 
and  three  flags  of  the  United  States,  waving  on  the  water  ;  which  gave  a 
contrast  to  the  still  and  lifeless  wilderness  around,  and  increased  the  pleas- 
ure of  the  prospect. 


OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.  53 

From  the  Canoe  river  to  the  St.  Croix,  the  Mississippi  evidently 
becomes  narrower,  and  the  navigation  less  obstructed  by  islands ;  the  St. 
Croix  river  joins  the  Mississippi  on  the  east,  and  bears  from  it  almost  due 
north.  It  is  only  eighty  yards  wide  at  its  mouth,  and  five  hundred  yards  up, 
commences  Lake  St.  Croix,  which  is  from  one  and  a  half  to  three  miles  wide, 
and  thirty-six  miles  in  length;  this  river  communicates  with  Lake  Superior, 
by  the  Burnt  river,  by  a  portage  of  half  a  mile  only,  and  in  its  whole  extent 
has  not  one  fall  or  rapid  worthy  of  notice  ;  this,  with  the  mildness  of  its  cur- 
rent, and  its  other  advantages,  renders  it  by  far  the  most  preferable  com- 
munication that  can  be  had  with  the  north-west,  from  this  part  of  our  terri- 
tories. Its  upper  waters  are  inhabited  by  the  Fols  Avoin  and  Sauteaux, 
who  are  supplied  by  the  agents  of  the  north-west  company,  and  its  lower 
division  by  the  Sioux,  and  their  traders. 

From  the  Cannon  river,  the  Mississippi  is  bounded  on  the  east  by 
high  ridges,  but  the  left  shore  consists  of  low  ground;  the  timber  is  gen- 
erally ash  and  maple,  except  the  cedar  of  the  cliffs,  sugar-tree,  and  ash. 
About  twenty  miles  below  the  entrance  of  the  river  St.  Peter's  on  the 
eastern  shore,  at  a  place  called  the  Grand  Marais,  is  situated  the  Petit 
Corbeau  village,  of  eleven  log-houses. 

I  observed  a  white  flag  on  shore  to  day,  and,  on  landing,  discovered 
it  to  be  white  silk;  it  was  suspended  over  a  scaffold,  on  which  were  laid 
four  dead  bodies,  two  enclosed  in  boards  and  two  in  bark.  They  were 
wrapped  up  in  blankets  which  appeared  quite  new;  I  was  informed  they 
were  the  bodies  of  two  Sioux  women,  (who  had  lived  with  two  French- 
men,) one  of  their  children  and  some  other  relative ;  two  of  whom  had 
died  at  St.  Peter's  and  two  at  St.  Croix,  but  were  brought  here  to  be 
deposited  upon  this  scafifold  together;  this  is  the  manner  of  a  Sioux 
burial,  when  persons  die  a  natural  death;  but  when  they  are  killed,  they 
suffer  them  to  lie  unburied.  This  circumstance  brought  to  my  recollec- 
tion the  bones  of  a  man  I  found  on  the  hills  below  the  St.  Croix — the 
jaw-bone  I  brought  on  board, — he  must  have  been  killed  on  that  spot. — 
Distance  advanced,  twenty-four  miles. 

Sunday,  22nd  September. — Employed  in  the  morning  in  measuring 
the  river — about  three  o'clock  Mr.  Frazer  arrived  with  his  perroques,  and 
in  three  hours  after,  the  Petit  Corbeau,  at  the  head  of  his  band,  arrived 
with  one-hundred  and  fifty  warriors;  they  ascended  the  hill,  in  the  point 


54  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

between  the  Mississippi  and  St.  Peter's,  and  gave  me  a  salute  d-la-mode 
Sauvage  v^\x}a.  balls;  after  which,  we  settled  the  affairs  for  the  council  to 
be  held  next  day.  Mr.  Frazer  and  myself  took  a  bark  canoe  and  went  up 
to  the  village,  in  order  to  see  Mr.  Cameron.  We  ascended  the  St.  Peter's 
to  the  village  and  found  his  camp,  (no  current  in  the  river,)  he  engaged  to 
be  at  the  council,  and  promised  to  let  me  have  his  barge.  The  Sioux 
had  marched  on  a  war  excursion,  but  hearing  (by  express)  of  my  arrival, 
had  returned  by  land.  We  were  treated  very  hospitably,  and  hallooed 
after  to  go  into  every  lodge  to  eat.  We  returned  to  our  station  about 
eleven  o'clock,  and  found  the  Sioux  and  my  men  peafeably  encamped. 

Monday,  23d  September. — Prepared  for  the  council,  which  we  com- 
menced about  twelve  o'clock.  I  had  a  bower,  or  shed,  made  of  my  sails 
on  the  beach,  into  which  only  my  gentlemen  (the  traders)  and  the  chiefs 
entered.  I  then  addressed  them  in  a  speech,  which,  though  long  and 
touching  on  many  points,  had  for  its  principal  object,  the  obtaining  of  a 
grant  of  land  at  this  place  (the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony)  and  at  St.  Croix,  and 
the  making  peace  between  them  and  the  Chippeways.  I  was  replied  to  by 
Fils  de  Penichon,  Le  Petit  Corbeau,  and  L'  Original  Lev6.  They  gave 
me  the  land  required,  about  one  hundred  thousand  acres,  (equal  to  two 
hundred  thousand  dollars  in  value,)  and  promised  me  a  safe  passport  for 
myself  and  the  chiefs  I  might  bring  down  ;  but  spoke  doubtfully  with 
respect  to  the  peace.  I  gave  them  presents  to  the  amount  of  about  two 
hundred  dollars,  and  as  soon  as  the  council  was  over,  I  allowed  the  traders 
to  present  them  with  some  liquor,  which,  with  what  I  gave,  was  equal  to 
sixty  gallons.  In  half  an  hour  they  were  all  embarked  for  their  respective 
villages.  The  chiefs  in  the  council  were,  Le  Petit  Corbeau,  he  signed  the 
grant ;  Le  Fils  de  Penichon,  he  also  signed  ;  Le  Grand  Partisan,  L'  Orig- 
inal Lev6,  La  Dimi  Douzaine,  Le  Bucasse,  and  Le  Boeuf  qui  Marche. 
It  was  somewhat  difificult  to  get  them  to  sign  the  grant,  as  they  conceived 
their  word  of  honour  should  be  taken  without  any  mark  ;  but  I  convinced 
them  it  was  not  on  their  account,  but  my  own,  I  wished  for  their  sig- 
natures.^ 

*  The  following  is  the  substance  of  my  conversation  on  this  occasion: 
"Brothers — I  am  happy  to  meet  you  here  at  this  council  fire,  which  your  father 
has  sent  me  to  kindle,  and  to  take  you  by  the  hand  as  our  children.     We  having  but 
lately  acquired  from  the  Spaniards  the  extensive  territory  of  Louisiana,  our  general 


OF  THE   MISSISSIPPI.  55 

Tuesday,   24th  September. —  In  the  morning    I    discovered  that   my 
flag   was    missing    from    my    boat.       Being    in    doubt   whether    it    had 

has  thought  proper  to  send  out  a  number  of  his  young  warriors  to  visit  all  his  red 
children;  to  tell  them  his  will,  and  to  hear  what  request  they  may  have  to  make  of 
their  father.  I  am  happy  the  choice  has  fallen  on  me  to  come  this  road,  as  I  find  my 
brothers,  the  Sioux,  ready  to  listen  to  my  words. 

"  It  is  the  wish  of  our  government  to  establish  military  posts  on  the  upper  Missis- 
sippi, at  such  places  as  might  be  thought  expedient;  I  have  therefore  examined  the 
country,  and  have  pitched  on  the  mouth  of  the  River  St.  Croix,  this  place,  and  the 
Falls  of  St.  Anthony;  I  therefore  wish  you  to  grant  to  the  United  States,  nine  miles 
square  at  St.  Croix,  and  this  place  from  a  league  below  the  confluence  of  the  St. 
Peter's  and  Mississippi,  to  a  league  above  St.  Anthony,  extending  three  leagues  on 
each  side  of  the  river;  and  as  we  are  a  people  accustomed  to  have  all  our  acts  written 
down,  in  order  to  have  them  handed  to  our  children,  I  have  drawn  up  a  form  of  an 
agreement,  which  we  will  both  sign  in  the  presence  of  the  traders  now  present.  After 
we  know  the  terms  we  will  fill  it  up,  and  have  it  read  and  interpreted  to  you. 

"These  posts  are  intended  as  a  benefit  to  you;  the  old  chiefs  now  present  must 
see  that  their  situation  improves  by  a  communication  with  the  whites.  It  is  the 
intention  of  the  United  States  to  esrtablish  at  these  posts  factories,  in  which  the 
Indians  may  procure  all  their  things  at  a  cheaper  and  better  rate  than  they  do  now; 
or,  that  your  traders  can  afford  to  sell  them  at  to  you,  as  they  are  single  individuals 
who  come  far  in  small  boats.  But  your  fathers  are  many  and  powerful,  and  will  come 
with  a  strong  arm  in  larger  vessels.  There  will  also  be  chiefs  here,  who  can  attend 
to  the  wants  of  their  brothers,  without  their  sending  or  going  all  the  way  to  St.  Louis; 
and  who  will  see  the  traders  that  go  up  your  rivers,  and  know  that  they  are  good  men. 

"Another  object  your  father  has  at  heart  is,  to  endeavour  to  make  peace  between 
you  and  the  Chippeways.  You  have  now  been  a  long  time  at  war,  and  when  will  you 
stop  ?  if  neither  side  will  lay  down  the  hatchet,  your  paths  will  always  be  red  with 
blood;  but  if  you  will  consent  to  make  peace,  and  suffer  your  father  to  bury  the 
hatchet  between  you,  I  will  endeavour  to  bring  down  some  of  the  Chippeway  chiefs 
with  me  to  St.  Louis,  where  the  good  work  can  be  completed  under  the  auspices  of 
our  mutual  father.  I  am  much  pleased  to  see,  that  the  young  warriors  have  halted  here 
to  hear  my  words  this  day;  and  as  I  know  it  is  hard  for  a  warrior  to  be  struck  and 
not  strike  again,  I  will,  by  the  first  Chippeway  I  meet,  send  words  to  their  chief,  that 
if  they  have  not  felt  your  tomahawk,  it  is  not  because  you  have  no  legs  or  the  hearts 
of  men,  but  because  you  have  listened  to  the  voice  of  your  father. 

"  If  the  chiefs  do  not  listen  to  the  voice  of  their  father,  and  continue  to  commit 
murders  on  you  and  your  traders,  they  will  call  down  the  vengeance  of  the  Americans; 
for  they  are  not  like  a  blind  man  walking  into  the  fire.  They  were  once  at  war  with  us, 
and  together  with  their  allies,  all  the  northern  Indians,  were  defeated  at  Roche  de 
Butte,  and  obliged  to  sue  for  peace;  that  peace  we  granted  them.  They  know  we  are 
not  children,  but  like  all  wise  people,  are  slow  to  shed  blood. 


56  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

been  stolen  by  the  Indians,  or  had  fallen  overboard  and  floated  away,  I 
sent  for  my  friend  L'  Original  Lev^  and  sufficiently  evinced  to  him  by 
the  vehemence  of  my  action,  by  the  immediate  chastisement  of  my  guard, 
(having  on  one  of  them  inflicted  severe  corporal  punishment,)  and  by 
sending  down  the  shore  three  miles  in  search  of  it,  how  much  I  was 
displeased  that  such  a  thing  should  have  occurred.     I  sent  a  flag  and  two 

"  Brothers — Your  old  men  know  that  not  many  years  since,  we  received  Detroit, 
Michillimackinac,  and  all  the  posts  on  the  lakes,  from  the  English,  and  now,  but  the 
other  day,  Louisiana  from  the  Spaniards ;  so  that  we  put  one  foot  on  the  sea  at  the  east, 
and  the  other  on  the  sea  at  the  west;  and  if  once  children, are  now  men.  Yet,  I  think 
the  traders  who  come  from  Canada  are  bad  birds  amongst  the  Chippeways,  and  insti- 
gate them  to  make  war  on  their  red  brethren,  the  Sioux,  in  order  to  prevent  our 
traders  going  up  the  Mississippi.  This  I  shall  enquire  into;  and  if  I  find  the  case  to 
be  so,  warn  those  persons  of  their  ill  conduct. 

"  Brothers — Mr.  Cheteau  was  sent  by  your  father  to  the  Osage  nation,  with  one 
of  his  young  chiefs,  he  sailed  some  days  before  me,  and  had  not  time  to  procure  the 
medals  which  I  am  told  he  promised  to  send  up,  but  they  will  be  procured. 

"  I  wish  you  to  have  some  of  your  head  chiefs  to  be  ready  to  go  down  with  me  in 
the  spring.  From  the  head  of  St.  Peter's  also,  such  other  chiefs  as  you  may  think 
proper,  to  the  number  of  four  or  five.  When  I  pass  here  on  my  way  I  will  send  you 
word  at  what  time  you  will  meet  me  at  the  Prairie  des  Chiens. 

"  I  expect  you  will  give  orders  to  all  your  young  warriors  to  respect  my  flag,  and 
the  protection  which  I  may  extend  to  the  Chippeway  chiefs,  who  may  come  down 
with  me  in  the  spring:  for  were  a  dog  to  run  to  my  lodge  for  safety,  his  enemy  must 
walk  over  me  to  hurt  them. 

"  Brothers — Here  is  a  flag  which  I  wish  to  send  to  the  Gens  de  Feuille,  to  shew 
them  they  are  not  forgotten  by  their  father.  I  wish  the  comrade  of  their  chief  to  take 
it  on  himself  to  deliver  it  with  my  words. 

"  Brothers — I  am  told,  that  hitherto  the  traders  have  made  a  practice  of  selling  rum 
to  you.  All  of  you  in  your  right  senses  must  know  that  it  is  injurious,  and  occasions 
quarrels  and  murders  amongst  yourselves.  For  this  reason  your  father  has  thought 
properto  prohibit  the  traders  from  selling  you  any  more.  Therefore  I  hope  my  brothers 
the  chiefs,  when  they  know  a  trader  to  sell  an  Indian  rum,  will  prevent  that  Indian 
from  paying  his  credit.  This  will  break  up  the  pernicious  practice,  and  oblige  your 
father.  But  I  hope  you  will  not  encourage  your  young  men  to  treat  our  traders  ill 
from  this  circumstance,  or  from  a  hope  of  the  indulgence  formerly  experienced,  but 
make  your  complaints  to  persons  in  this  country,  who  will  be  authorized  to  do  you 
justice. 

"  I  now  present  you  with  some  of  your  father's  tobacco,  and  some  other  trifling 
things,  as  a  memorandum  of  my  good  will,  and  before  my  departure  I  will  give  you 
some  liquor  to  clear  your  throats." 


OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI  57 

carrots  of  tobacco  by  Mr.  Cameron,  to  the  Sioux  at  the  head  of  the  St. 
Peter's.  Made  a  small  draft  of  the  position  at  this  place :  sent  up  the 
boat  I  got  from  Mr.  Fisher,  to  the  village  on  the  St.  Peter's,  and  exchanged 
her  for  a  barge  with  Mr.  Duncan ;  my  men  returned  with  the  barge  about 
sun-down,  she  was  a  fine  light  vessel,  eight  men  were  able  to  carry  her — 
employed  all  day  in  writing. 

Wednesday,  25th  September. — I  was  awakened  by  Le  Petit  Corbeau, 
(head  chief,)  who  came  up  from  his  village  to  see  if  we  were  killed,  or  if 
any  accident  had  happened  to  us;  this  was  in  consequence  of  his  having 
found  my  flag  floating  three  miles  below  their  village,  (fifteen  miles 
hence,)  from  which  they  concluded  some  affray  had  taken  place,  and 
that  it  had  been  thrown  overboard.  Although  I  conceived  this  an 
unfortunate  accident  for  me,  I  was  exceedingly  happy  at  its  effect;  for  it 
proved  the  means  of  preventing  much  blood-shed  among  the  savages.  A 
chief  called  the  Outarde  Blanche  had  his  lip  cut  off,  and  had  come  to 
the  Petit  Corbeau,  and  told  him,  "that  his  face  was  his  looking-glass, 
that  it  was  spoiled,  and  that  he  was  determined  on  revenge."  The 
parties  were  charging  their  guns  and  preparing  for  action,  when  lo  !  the 
flag  appeared  like  a  messenger  of  peace,  sent  to  prevent  their  bloody 
purposes;  they  were  all  astonished  to  see  it,  the  staff  being  broken:  when 
the  Petit  Corbeau  arose  and  spoke  to  this  effect,  "  That  a  thing  so  sacred 
had  not  been  taken  from  my  boat  without  violence,  that  it  was  proper  for 
them  to  hush  all  private  animosities,  until  they  had  revenged  the  cause 
of  their  elder  brother;  that  he  would  immediately  go  up  the  St.  Peter's,  to 
learn  what  dogs  had  done  it,  in  order  to  take  steps  to  get  satisfaction  of 
those  who  had  committed  the  outrage."  They  all  listened  to  this 
reasoning,  and  he  immediately  had  the  flag  put  out  to  dry,  and  embarked 
himself  for  my  camp. 

I  was  much  concerned  to  hear  of  the  blood  likely  to  have  been  shed, 
and  gave  him  five  yards  of  blue  stroud,  three  yards  of  calico,  one  hand- 
kerchief, one  carrot  of  tobacco,  and  a  knife,  in  order  to  make  peace  among 
his  people.  He  promised  to  send  my  flag  by  land  to  the  falls,  and  make 
peace  with  the  Outarde  Blanche.  Mr.  Frazer  went  up  to  the  village,  and 
we  embarked  late  and  encamped  at  the  foot  of  the  rapids. 

Thursday,  26th  September. — Embarked  at  the  usual  hour,  and  after 
much  labour  in  passing  through  the  rapids,  arrived  at  the  foot  of  the  falls 


58  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

about  three  or  four  o'clock;  here  we  unloaded  our  boat  and  had  the  prin- 
cipal part  of  the  cargo  carried  over  the  portage:  with  the  other  boat 
however,  full  loaded,  they  were  not  able  to  get  over  the  last  shoot, 
and  encamped  about  six  hundred  yards  below — I  pitched  my  tent  and 
encamped  above  the  shoot.  The  rapids  mentioned  here,  might  properly 
be  called  a  continuation  of  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  for  they  are  equally 
entitled  to  this  appellation  with  the  falls  of  the  Delaware  and  Susque- 
hannah.     Killed  one  deer — distance  advanced,  nine  miles. 

Friday,  27th  September. — Brought  over  the  residue  of  my  loading 
this  morning.  Two  men  arrived  from  Mr.  Frazer  on  St.  Peter's  for  my 
despatches.  This  business  of  closing  and  sealing,  appeared  like  a  last 
adieu  to  the  civilized  world:  I  sent,  by  this  opportunity,  a  large  packet  to 
the  General,  and  a  letter  to  Mrs.  Pike,  with  a  short  note  to  Mr.  Frazer. 
Two  young  Indians  brought  my  flag  across  by  land,  and  arrived  yesterday 
just  as  we  came  in  sight  of  the  falls;  I  made  them  a  present  for  their 
punctuality  and  expedition,  and  the  dangers  to  which  their  journey 
exposed  them.  We  next  carried  our  boats  out  of  the  river  as  far  as  the 
bottom  of  the  hill. 

Saturday,  28th  September. — Having  conveyed  my  barge  over  the  port- 
age, we  put  her  into  the  river  above  the  falls.  While  we  were  thus 
occupied  three  quarters  of  a  mile  from  the  camp,  seven  Indians  painted 
black  appeared  on  the  height — we  had  left  our  guns  at  camp,  and  were 
entirely  defenceless.  It  occurred  to  me  that  they  were  the  small  party  of 
Sioux,  who  were  obstinately  bent  on  going  to  war,  when  the  other  part  of 
the  bands  came  in;  these  they  proved  to  be:  they  were  better  armed  than 
any  I  had  ever  seen;  having  guns,  bows  and  arrows,  clubs,  spears,  and  some 
of  them  even  a  case  of  pistols.  I  was  at  that  time  giving  my  men  a 
dram;  having  presented  the  cup  of  liquor  to  the  first  Indian  he  drank  it  off, 
but  I  was  more  cautious  with  the  others.  I  sent  my  interpreter  to  the  camp 
with  them  to  wait  my  arrival,  wishing  to  purchase  one  of  their  war  clubs, 
it  beinof  made  of  elk-horn  and  decorated  with  inlaid  work.  This  and  a  set 
of  bows  and  arrows,  I  wished  to  obtain  as  curiosities;  but  the  liquor  I  had 
given  the  Indian  beginning  to  operate,  he  came  back  for  me,  but  refusing 
to  go  till  I  had  brought  up  my  boat,  he  returned,  and  (being  I  suppose 
offended)  borrowed  a  canoe  and  crossed  the  river.  In  the  afternoon  we 
got  the  other  boat  near  the  top  of  the  hill,  when  the  props  giving  way  she 


;Ljfi|. 


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5 


3 
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OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.  59 

slid  down  to  the  bottom,  but  fortunately  without  injuring  any  person 
— it  raining  very  hard  we  left  her — killed  one  goose  and  a  rackoon. 

Sunday,  29th  September, — We  got  our  large  boat  over  the  portage,  and 
put  her  in  the  river,  at  the  upper  landing;  this  night  the  men  gave  suffi- 
cient proof  of  their  fatigue,  by  all  throwing  themselves  down  to  sleep,  pre- 
ferring rest  to  supper.  This  day  I  had  but  fifteen  men  out  of  twenty-two; 
the  others  were  sick. 

Our  voyage  could  have  been  performed  with  great  convenience,  if  we 
had  taken  our  departure  in  June. 

But  the  most  proper  time  would  be  to  leave  the  Illinois  as  soon  as  the 
ice  would  permit,  when  the  river  would  be  of  a  good  height. 

Monday,  30th  September. — Loaded  my  two  boats,  moved  over  and 
encamped  on  the  island.  In  the  mean  time,  I  took  a  survey  of  the  falls, 
portage,  &c.,  to  examine  whether  it  be  possible  to  pass  the  falls  at  high 
water,  of  which  I  am  doubtful*;  if  practicable,  it  must  be  on  the  eastern 
side,  about  thirty  yards  from  shore;  as  there  are  three  layers  of  rocks,  one 
below  the  other,  the  pitch  off  of  either  is  not  more  than  five  feet. 

From  the  River  St.  Peter's  to  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  the  Mississippi 
is  contracted  between  high  hills,  and  is  one  continued  rapid  or  fall,  the 
bottom  being  covered  with  rocks,  which  (in  low  water)  are  some  feet 
above  the  surface,  leaving  narrow  channels  between  them.  The  rapidity 
of  the  current  is  likewise  much  augmented  by  the  numerous  small  rocky 
islands  which  obstruct  the  navigation. 

The  shores  have  many  large  and  beautiful  springs  issuing  from  them, 
which  form  small  cascades  as  they  tumble  over  the  cliffs  into  the  Mississippi. 
The  timber  is  generally  maple.  This  place  is  not  noted  for  any  great 
number  of  wild  fowls. 

The  Falls  of  St.  Anthony  did  not  strike  me  with  that  majestic  appear- 
ance which  I  had  been  taught  to  expect  from  the  description  of  other 
travellers.  On  an  actual  survey  I  find  the  portage  to  be  two  hundred 
and  sixty  poles,  but  when  the  river  is  not  very  low,  boats  ascending  may 
put  in  thirty-one  poles  below  at  a  large  cedar  tree,  which  would  reduce  it  to 
two  hundred  and  twenty-nine  poles.  The  hill  on  which  the  portage  is  made 
is  sixty-nine  feet  ascent,  with  an  elevation  at  the  point  of  debarkation  of 
45°.  The  fall  of  the  water  between  the  place  of  debarkation  and  of 
*Never  possible,  as  ascertained  in  my  return. 


6o  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

reloading  is  fifty-eight  feet,  the  perpendicular  fall  of  the  shoot  sixteen  feet 
and  a  half,  the  width  of  the  river  above  the  shoot  six  hundred  and  twenty 
seven  yards,  below  two  hundred  and  nine.  In  high  water  the  appearance 
is  much  more  sublime,  as  the  great  quantity  of  water  then  forms  a  spray, 
which  in  clear  weather  reflects  from  some  positions  the  colours  of  the  rain- 
bow, and  when  the  sky  is  overcast,  covers  the  falls  in  gloom  and  chaotic 
majesty. 

Tuesday,  ist  October. — We  again  embarked  to  proceed  on  our  voyage 
above  the  falls.  The  river  at  first  appeared  mild  and  sufficiently  deep  for 
the  easy  passage  of  our  boats;  but  after  we  had  advanced  about  four  miles, 
the  shoals  commenced,  and  we  had  very  hard  water  all  day;  we  passed  in 
all  three  rapids:  killed  one  goose  and  three  ducks:  the  sun  shone  for  the 
first  time  since  we  had  left  the  falls;  distance  advanced  seventeen  miles. 

From  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony  to  the  Rum  river,  the  Mississippi  is 
almost  one  continued  chain  of  rapids,  with  the  eddies  formed  by  winding 
channels.  The  land  on  both  sides  consists  of  prairie,  with  scarcely  any 
timber,  excepting  small  groves  of  scrub  oak.  Rum  river  is  about  fifty 
yards  wide  at  its  mouth,  and  takes  its  source  in  Le  Mille  Lac,  which  is  but 
thirty-five  miles  south  of  lower  Red  Cedar  Lake.  The  small  Indian  canoes 
ascend  this  river  quite  to  the  lake,  the  ground  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
which  is  considered  one  of  the  best  hunting  stations  for  some  hundred 
of  miles,  and  has  long  been  a  scene  of  contention  between  the  hunting 
parties  of  the  Sioux  and  Sauteaux.  The  last  winter  a  number  of  the  Fols 
Avoins,  and  Sioux,  and  some  Sauteaux,  wintered  in  that  quarter. 

From  Rum  river  to  Leaf  river  (called  by  Father  Hennipin  and 
Carver  the  river  St.  Francis,  and  formed  the  extent  of  their  travels)  the 
prairies  continue  with  a  few  interruptions,  the  timber  scrub  oak,  with  now 
and  then  a  lonely  pine. 

Wednesday,  2d  October. — We  embarked  at  our  usual  hour,  and  shortly 
after  passed  some  large  islands,  and  remarkably  hard  ripples.  Indeed  the 
navigation,  to  persons  not  determined  to  proceed,  would  have  been  deemed 
impracticable.  We  waded  nearly  all  day  to  force  the  boats  off  shoals,  and 
draw  them  through  rapids:  killed  three  geese  and  two  swans.  We 
observed  much  appearance  of  elk  and  deer ;  distance  advanced,  twelve 
miles. 

Thursday,  3d  October. — The  weather  was  extremely  cold  in  the 
morning,  the  mercury  being  at  0*';  we  proceeded  very  well,  though  some 


OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.  6i 

ripples  occurred;  killed  three  geese  and  one  rackoon,  also  a  blaireau,  an 
animal  I  had  never  before  seen;  distance  advanced,  fifteen  miles' and  a  half. 

Friday,  4th  October. — Rained  in  the  morning,  but  the  wind  serving, 
we  embarked,  although  extremely  raw  and  cold.  Passed  Crow  river,  on 
the  west.  The  stream  is  about  thirty  yards  wide,  and  bears  from  the  Mis- 
sissippi S.  W.  Opposite  to  the  mouth  of  Crow  river,  we  found  a  bark 
canoe,  cut  to  pieces  with  tomahawks,  and  the  paddles  broken  lying  on 
shore.  A  short  distance  higher  up  we  saw  five  more,  and  continued  to 
discover  similar  wrecks  until  we  had  found  eight.  From  the  form  of  the 
canoes  my  interpreter  pronounced  them  to  be  Sioux ;  and  some  broken 
arrows  he  declared  to  have  belonged  to  the  Sauteurs.  The  paddles  were 
also  marked  with  the  Indian  sign  of  men  and  women  killed.  From  all 
•  these  circumstances  we  inferred  that  the  canoes  had  belonged  to  a  party 
of  Sioux,  who  had  been  attacked  by  the  Sauteurs  and  all  killed,  or  taken 
prisoners.  My  interpreter  was  much  alarmed,  assuring  me  that  it  was 
probable,  that  at  our  first  meeting  with  the  Chippeways,  we  should  be  mis- 
taken by  them  for  Sioux  traders,  and  be  fired  at  before  we  could  come 
to  an  explanation.  He  stated  that  they  had  murdered  three  Frenchmen, 
whom  they  found  on  the  shore  about  this  time  last  year;  but  notwith- 
standing his  information,  I  was  on  shore  all  the  afternoon  in  pursuit  of 
elk.  During  this  excursion  I  caught  a  curious  little  animal  on  the  prairie, 
which  my  Frenchman  termed  a  prairie  mole,  but  it  is  very  different  from 
the  mole  of  the  states;  killed  two  geese,  one  pheasant,  and  a  wolf;  dis- 
tance advanced,  sixteen  miles. 

Saturday,  5th  October. — Had  hard  water  and  ripples  all  day;  passed 
by  some  old  Sioux  encampments,  all  fortified;  found  five  litters  in  which 
sick  or  wounded  men  had  been  carried.  At  this  place  a  hard  battle  was 
fought  between  the  Sioux  and  Sauteurs  in  the  year  1800  :  killed  one  goose; 
distance  advanced,  eleven  miles. 

Sunday,  6th  October. — Early  in  the  morning  we  discovered  four  elks, 
which  were  the  first  we  saw;  they  swam  the  river,  I  pursued  them,  and 
wounded  one,  but  he  made  his  escape  into  a  marsh,  saw  afterwards  two 
droves  of  elk,  but  could  not  approach  them.  I  killed  some  small  game, 
and  joined  the  boats  at  dusk.  During  my  excursion  I  found  a  small  red 
capot  hung  upon  a  tree,  which  my  interpreter  informed  me  was  a  sacrifice 


62  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

by  some  Indians  to  the  Bon  Dieu.  I  determined  to  lay  by  and  hunt  the 
next  day:  killed  three  prairie  hens  and  two  pheasants;  distance  advanced, 
twelve  miles. 

Monday,  7th  October. — Lay  by  in  order  to  dry  my  corn,  clothing^ 
&c.,  and  to  investigate  the  conduct  of  my  sergeant,  against  whom  charges 
had  been  exhibited;  sent  several  of  my  men  out  hunting;  went  myself 
towards  evening  and  killed  four  prairie  hens;  the  hunters  were  unsuc- 
cessful, having  killed  only  three  prairie  hens  and  six  pheasants. 

Tuesday,  8th  October. — Embarked  early  and  made  a  very  good  day's 
progress,  but  had  three  rapids  to  pass  on  the  western  side.  We  passed 
some  woodland,  consisting  chiefly  of  oak,  but  the  whole  bottom  was  cov- 
ered with  the  prickly  ash. 

I  made  it  a  practice,  to  oblige  every  man  who  complained  of  indispo- 
sition, to  march  on  shore;  by  which  means  I  had  some  flankers  on  both 
sides  of  the  river,  who  were  excellent  guards  against  surprise;  they  also 
served  as  hunters :  distance  advanced,  twenty  miles. 

Wednesday,  9th  October. — Embarked  early,  the  wind  a-head.  The 
shores  consisted  of  barrens  and  prairie  ;  killed  one  deer  and  four  pheas- 
ants ;  distance  advanced,  three  miles. 

Thursday,  loth  October. — We  arrived  in  the  morning  at  the  place 
where  Mr.  Reinville  and  Mons.  Portier  wintered  in  1797;  passed  a  cluster 
of  more  than  twenty  islands  in  the  course  of  four  miles ;  these  I  called 
Beaver  Islands,  from  the  great  signs  of  those  animals  which  they  exhibited, 
for  they  had  constructed  dams  on  every  island,  with  roads  from  them  every 
two  or  three  rods'  distance.  Encamped  in  the  evening  at  the  foot  of  the 
grand  rapids:  killed  two  geese,  five  ducks,  and  four  pheasants;  distance 
advanced,  sixteen  miles  and  a  half. 

Friday,  1 1  th  October. — Both  the  boats  had  passed  the  worst  of  the 
rapids  by  1 1  o'clock,  but  the  men  were  obliged  to  wade  and  lift  them  over 
rocks,  which  had  not  a  foot  of  water  on  them,  while  at  times  the  next  step 
they  would  be  in  the  water  over  their  heads.  In  consequence  of  these  cir- 
cumstances, our  boats  were  frequently  in  imminent  danger  of  being  bilged 
on  the  rocks.  About  five  miles  above  the  rapids,  our  large  boat  was  discov- 
ered to  leak  so  fast  that  it  became  necessary  to  unload  her.  Having  done 
this,  and  stopped  the  leaks,  we  reloaded.  Near  a  war  encampment,  at  this 
place,  I  found  a  painted  buckskin,  and  a  piece  of  scarlet  cloth,  suspended 


OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.  63 

on  a  tree  ;  this  I  supposed  to  be  dedicated  to  Matcho  Manitou  by  the 
Indians,  to  ensure  the  success  of  their  enterprise ;  but  I  took  the  liberty 
of  invading  the  rights  of  his  diaboHcal  majesty,  by  appropriating  the 
articles,  as  the  priests  of  old  have  often  done  similar  offerings,  to  my  own 
use :  killed  only  tvv^o  ducks;  distance  advanced,  eight  miles. 

From  Leaf  river  to  Sac  river,  a  little  above  the  grand  rapids,  both 
sides  of  the  Mississippi  are  generally  prairie,  with  skirts  of  scrub  oak; 
the  navigation  still  obstructed  with  ripples,  but  with  some  intermissions 
of  a  few  miles.  Sac  river  is  about  two  hundred  yards  wide  at  its  mouth, 
and  bears  from  the  Mississippi  about  south-west. 

At  the  grand  rapids  the  river  expands  itself  to  about  three-fourths  of 
a  mile  in  width  (its  general  width  not  being  more  than  three-fifths  of  a 
mile),  and  tumbles  over  an  unequal  bed  of  rocks  for  about  two  miles, 
through  which  there  cannot  be  said  to  be  any  channel,  for  notwithstanding 
the  rapidity  of  the  current,  one  of  my  invalids  who  was  on  the  western 
shore  waded  to  the  eastern,  where  we  were  encamped;  the  eastern  bank  at 
the  rapids  is  a  very  high  prairie,  the  western  scrubby  wood  land. 

Saturday,  12th  October. — Hard  ripples  in  the  morning;  but  after  hav- 
ing passed  a  narrow  rocky  place,  we  had  good  water:  our  large  boat  again 
sprung  a  leak,  and  we  were  obliged  to  encamp  early  and  unload:  killed 
one  deer,  one  wolf,  two  geese,  and  two  ducks;  distance  advanced,  twelve 
miles  and  a  half. 

Sunday,  1 3th  October. — Embarked  early  and  came  on  well  with  good 
water,  and  fair  wind;  passed  a  handsome  little  stream  on  the  east,  which 
we  named  Clear  river;  killed  one  deer,  one  beaver,  two  minks,  two  geese, 
and  one  duck.  This  day  we  discovered  the  first  bufialo  sign,  and  came  to 
the  first  timber  land  above  the  falls  of  St.  Anthony;  distance  advanced, 
twenty-nine  miles. 

Monday,  14th  October. — Ripples  for  a  considerable  way.  My  hunters 
killed  three  deer,  four  geese,  and  two  porcupines.  While  I  was  out  hunt- 
ing I  discovered  a  trail,  which  I  supposed  to  have  been  made  by  the 
savages.  I  followed  it  with  much  precaution,  and  at  length  started  a 
large  bear,  feeding  on  the  carcass  of  a  deer;  he  soon  made  his  escape. 
This  was  the  first  discovery  of  bear  since  we  left  St.  Louis,  excepting 
what  we  saw  three  miles  below  St.  Peter's:  distance  advanced,  seventeen 
miles. 


64  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

Tuesday,  15th  October. — Ripples  all  day.  In  the  morning  the  large 
boat  came  up,  and  I  once  more  got  my  party  together;  they  had  been 
detained  by  taking  in  the  game.  Yesterday  and  to-day  passed  some  skirts 
of  good  lands,  well  timbered,  swamps  of  hemlock  and  white  pine.  The 
water  continued  very  hard,  and  the  river  became  shallow  and  full  of 
islands.  We  encamped  on  a  beautiful  point  on  the  west,  below  a  fall  of 
the  river  over  a  bed  of  rocks,  through  which  we  had  two  narrow  shoots  to 
make  our  way  the  next  day;  killed  two  deer,  five  ducks,  and  two  geese. 
This  day  made  us  think  seriously  of  our  wintering  ground,  and  of  leaving 
our  large  boats:  distance  advanced,  five  miles. 

Wednesday,  i6th  October. — When  we  arose  in  the  morning,  we  found 
that  snow  had  fallen  during  the  night;  the  ground  was  covered,  and  it 
still  continued  snowing.  This  was  indeed  but  poor  encouragement  for 
attacking  the  rapids,  in  which  we  were  certain  to  have  to  wade  up  to  our 
necks  in  water.  I  was  determined  however,  if  possible,  to  make  Corbeau 
or  Raven  river,  the  highest  point  ever  reached  by  traders  in  the  bark 
canoes.  We  embarked,  and  after  four  hours'  work,  became  so  benumbed 
with  cold,  that  our  limbs  were  perfectly  useless;  we  put  to  shore  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  river,  about  two-thirds  of  the  way  up  the  rapids,  built 
a  large  fire,  and  then  discovered  that  our  boats  were  nearly  half  full  of 
water;  both  having  sprung  large  leaks,  so  as  to  oblige  me  to  keep  three 
hands  bailing.  My  sergeant,  (Kennerman,)  one  of  the  stoutest  men  I  ever 
knew,  burst  a  blood-vessel,  and  vomited  nearly  two  quarts  of  blood.  One 
of  my  corporals  (Bradley)  also  discharged  nearly  a  pint  of  blood,  when  he 
attempted  to  void  his  urine. 

These  unhappy  circumstances,  in  addition  to  the  inability  of  four 
other  men,  whom  we  were  obliged  to  leave  on  shore,  convinced  me,  that 
if  I  had  no  regard  for  my  own  health  and  constitution,  I  ought  to  have 
some  for  those  poor  fellows,  who  were  killing  themselves  to  obey  my 
orders.  After  we  had  breakfasted  and  refreshed  ourselves,  we  went  down 
to  our  boats,  on  the  rocks,  where  I  was  obliged  to  leave  them.  I  now 
informed  my  men,  that  we  should  return  to  the  camp,  and  leave  on  this 
spot  some  of  the  party  and  our  large  boats.  This  information  proved 
agreeable  to  them,  and  the  effort  to  reach  the  camp  was  soon  accomplished. 
My  reasons  for  this  step  have  already  been  in  part  stated.  The  necessity 
of  unloading  and  refitting  my  boats,   the  beauty  and  convenience  of  the 


OF  THE   MISSISSIPPI.  65 

spot  for  building  huts,  the  fine  pine  trees  it  afforded  for  perroques,  the 
quantity  of  game  which  abounded  in  the  neighbourhood,  were  additional 
inducements.  By  leaving  men  at  this  place,  I  was  sure  of  plenty  of  pro- 
visions for  my  returning  voyage.  In  the  party  left  behind  was  one 
hunter,  to  be  continually  employed,  who  would  keep  our  stock  of  salt  pro- 
visions good. 

We  immediately  unloaded  our  boats  and  secured  their  cargoes.  In 
the  evening  I  went  out  upon  a  small  but  beautiful  creek,  which  empties 
into  the  falls,  for  the  purpose  of  selecting  pine  trees  to  make  canoes;  saw 
five  deer,  and  killed  one  buck,  weighing  one  hundred  and  thirty-seven 
pounds.  Distance  two  hundred  and  thirty-three  miles  and  a  half  above 
the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony. 

From  Sac  river  to  Pine  creek,  our  present  station,  the  quantity  of 
game  continued  to  increase.  The  borders  of  the  river  consist  of  prairi*^, 
with  groves  of  pine  on  the  edge  of  the  banks,  but  there  are  some  excep- 
tions, where  we  meet  with  small  bottoms  of  oak,  ash,  maple,  and  lyme. 
In  this  distance  there  is  an  intermission  of  rapids  for  about  forty  miles, 
when  they  commence  again,  full  as  difihcult  as  ever.  There  are  three 
small  creeks  emptying  in  on  the  west,  scarcely  worthy  of  notice,  and  on 
the  east  are  two  small  rivers.  Lake  and  Clear  rivers,  mentioned  before; 
the  former,  a  small  stream  about  fifteen  yards  wide,  bearing  N.  W.  at  its 
mouth.  About  three  miles  from  its  entrance  is  a  beautiful  small  lake, 
around  which  resort  immense  herds  of  elk  and  buffalo.  Clear  river  is  a 
delightful  little  stream,  of  about  eighty  yards  in  width,  and  heads  in  some 
swamps  and  small  lakes,  on  which  the  Sauteaux  of  lower  Red  Cedar  Lake 
and  Sandy  Lake  frequently  come  to  hunt.  The  soil  of  the  prairies  from 
above  the  falls  is  sandy,  but  would  raise  small  grain  in  abundance;  the 
bottom  is  rich  and  fit  for  corn  or  hemp. 

Pine  creek  is  a  small  stream  which  comes  in  on  the  western  shore, 
and  bears  nearly  west.  It  is  bounded  by  large  groves  of  white  and  red 
pine. 

Thursday,  17th  October. —  It  continued  to  snow;  I  walked  out  in 
the  morning  and  killed  four  bears,  and  my  hunter  three  deers.  Felled 
our  trees  for  canoes,  and  commenced  working  on  them. 

Friday,  i8th  October. —  Stopped  hunting,  and  put  every  hand  to 
work;  cut  sixty  logs  for  huts,  and  worked  at  the  canoes.     This,  considering 


66  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

we  had  only  two  felling  axes  and  three  hatchets,   was  pretty  good  work. 
Weather  cloudy  with  a  little  snow. 

Saturday,  icj'Civ  October. —  Raised  one  of  our  houses,  and  almost  com- 
pleted one  canoe.  I  was  employed  the  principal  part  of  this  day  in  writ- 
ing letters,  and  making  arrangements  which  I  deemed  necessary,  in  case 
I  should  never  return. 

Sunday,  20th  October. —  Continued  our  labour  at  the  houses  and 
canoes,  finished  my  letters,  &c.  At  night  discovered  the  prairie  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  river  to  be  on  fire,  which  I  supposed  to  have  been 
occasioned  by  the  Sauteurs.  I  wished  much  to  have  our  situation  respect- 
able here,  or  I  would  have  sent  the  next  day  to  discover  them. 

Monday,  21st  October. —  Went  out  hunting,  but  killed  nothing,  not 
wishing  to  shoot  at  small  game.     Our  labour  went  on. 

Ttiesday,  22d  October. —  Went  out  hunting:  about  fifteen  miles  up 
the  creek  saw  a  great  quantity  of  deer,  but  from  the  dryness  of  the  woods, 
and  the  quantity  of  brush,  only  shot  one  through  the  body,  which  made 
its  escape.  This  day  my  men  neglected  their  work,  which  convinced  me 
I  must  leave  off  hunting  and  superintend  them.  Miller  and  myself  lay 
out  all  night  in  the  pine  woods. 

Wednesday,  23d  October. —  Raised  three  block  houses,  deposited  all 
our  property  in  the  one  already  completed;  killed  a  number  of  pheasants 
and  ducks,  while  visiting  my  canoe  makers.     Sleets  and  snow, 

Thursday,  24th  October. — The  snow  having  fallen  one  or  two  inches 
thick  in  the  night,  I  sent  out  one  hunter  (Sparks)  and  went  out  myself: 
Bradley,  my  other  hunter,  being  sick.  Each  of  us  killed  two  deer,  one  goose 
and  one  pheasant. 

Friday,  25th  October. — Sent  out  men  with  Sparks  to  bring  in  his  game; 
none  of  them  returned,  and  I  supposed  them  to  be  lost  in  the  hemlock 
swamps,  with  which  the  country  abounds.  My  interpreter,  however,  whom 
I  believe  to  be  a  coward,  insisted  that  they  were  killed  by  the  Sauteurs. 
Made  arrangements  for  my  departure. 

Saturday,  26th  October. — Launched  my  canoes  and  found  them  very 
small.  My  hunters  killed  three  deer.  Took  out  Miller  and  remained  out 
all  night,  but  killed  nothing, 

Sunday,  27th  October.  —  Employed  in  preparing  our  baggage  to 
embark. 


OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.  67 

Monday,  28th  October. — My  two  canoes  being  finished,  launched  and 
brought  them  to  the  head  of  the  rapids,  where  I  put  my  provision,  ammu- 
nition, &c.,  on  board,  intending  to  embark  by  daylight.  Having  left  them 
under  the  charge  of  the  sentinel,  in  about  an  hour  one  of  them,  containing 
the  ammunition  and  my  baggage,  sunk:  the  accident  was  occasioned  by 
what  is  called  a  wind  shock.  This  misfortune,  and  the  extreme  smallness  of 
my  canoes,  induced  me  to  build  another.  I  had  my  cartridges  spread  out 
on  blankets,  and  large  fires  made  around  them;  at  that  time  I  was  not  able 
to  ascertain  the  full  extent  of  the  damage,  the  magnitude  of  which  none  can 
estimate,  excepting  those  in  the  same  situation  with  ourselves,  fifteen  hun- 
dred miles  from  civilized  society,  and  in  danger  of  losing  the  very  means 
of  defence,  nay,  even  of  existence. 

Tuesday,  29th  October. — Felled  a  large  pine  and  commenced  another 
canoe;  I  was  at  work  at  my  cartridges  all  day,  but  did  not  save  five  dozen 
out  of  thirty.  In  attempting  to  dry  the  powder  in  pots,  blew  it  up,  and  it 
had  nearly  blown  up  a  tent  and  two  or  three  men  with  it.  Made  a  do/en 
new  cartridges,  with  the  old  wrapping  paper. 

Wednesday,  30th  October. — My  men  laboured  as  usual;  nothing  extra- 
ordinary occurred. 

Thursday,  31st  October. — Enclosed  my  little  work  completely  with 
piquets;  hauled  up  my  two  boats,  and  turned  them  over  on  each  side  of  the 
gateways,  by  which  means  a  defence  was  made  to  the  river;  and  had  it  not 
been  for  various  political  reasons,  I  would  have  laughed  at  the  attack  of 
eight  hundred  or  a  thousand  savages,  if  all  my  party  were  within.  For, 
save  accidents,  it  would  only  have  afforded  amusement,  the  Indians  having 
no  idea  of  taking  a  place  by  storm. 

I  found  myself  this  day  powerfully  attacked  with  the  fantastics  of  the 
brain,  called  ennui,  at  the  mention  of  which  I  had  hitherto  scoffed;  but  my 
books  being  packed  up,  I  was  like  a  person  entranced,  and  could  easily 
conceive  why  so  many  persons,  who  have  been  confined  to  remote  places, 
have  acquired  the  habit  or  drinking  to  excess,  and  many  other  practices 
which  have  been  adopted  merely  to  pass  time. 

Friday,  ist  November. — Finding  that  my  canoe  would  not  be  finished 
under  two  or  three  days,  I  concluded  to  take  six  men  and  go  down  the 
river  about  twelve  miles,  where  we  had  observed  great  signs  of  elk  and 
buffalo.     We  arrived  there  early  in  the  afternoon,  and  all  turned  out  to 


68  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

hunt,  but  none  of  us  killed  anything  except  Sparks,  who  shot  one  doe.     A 
slight  snow  fell. 

Saturday,  2d  November. — Left  the  camp  with  the  full  determination 
of  killing  an  elk  if  possible  before  my  return.  I  had  never  yet  killed  one 
of  these  animals.  Took  with  me  Miller,  whose  obliging  disposition  made 
him  agreeable  in  the  woods.  I  was  determined  that  if  we  came  on  the 
trail  of  elk,  to  follow  them  a  day  or  two  in  order  to  kill  one.  This  to  a 
person  acquainted  with  the  nature  of  those  animals,  and  the  extent  of  the 
prairies  in  this  country,  would  appear,  what  it  really  was,  a  verj'  foolish 
resolution.  We  soon  struck  where  a  herd  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  had 
passed,  pursued  and  came  in  sight  about  eight  o'clock,  when  they  appeared, 
at  a  distance,  like  an  army  of  Indians,  moving  along  in  single  file;  a  large 
buck  of  at  least  four  feet  between  the  horns  leading  the  van,  and  one  of 
equal  magnitude  bringing  up  the  rear.  We  followed  till  near  night,  with- 
out being  once  able  to  get  within  point  blank  shot.  I  once  made  Miller 
fire  at  them  with  his  musket,  at  about  four  hundred  yards  distance;  it  had 
no  other  effect  than  to  make  them  leave  us  about  five  miles  behind  on  the 
prairie.  We  passed  several  deer  in  the  course  of  the  day,  which  I  think 
we  could  have  killed,  but  did  not  fire  for  fear  of  alarming  the  elk.  Find- 
ing that  it  was  no  easy  matter  to  kill  one,  I  shot  a  doe  through  the  body, 
as  I  perceived  by  her  blood  where  she  lay  down  in  the  snow,  yet,  not 
knowing  how  to  track,  we  lost  her.  Shortly  after  we  saw  three  elk  by 
themselves,  near  a  copse  of  wood;  approached  near  them  and  broke  the 
shoulder  of  one,  but  he  ran  off  with  his  companions.  Just  as  I  was  about 
to  follow,  I  observed  a  buck  deer  lying  in  the  grass,  which  I  shot  behind 
the  eyes,  when  he  fell  over.  I  walked  up  to  him,  put  my  foot  on  his  horns 
and  examined  the  shot,  upon  which  he  snorted,  bounced  up  and  fell  about 
five  steps  from  me.  This  I  considered  his  last  effort,  but  soon  after,  to 
our  utter  astonishment,  he  jumped  up  and  ran  off:  he  stopped  frequently; 
we  pursued  him  expecting  him  to  fall  every  minute,  by  which  we  were  led 
from  the  pursuit  of  the  wounded  elk.  After  having  wearied  ourselves 
out  in  this  unsuccessful  chase,  we  returned  to  pursue  the  wounded  elk,  and 
when  we  came  up  to  the  party,  found  him  missing  from  the  flock.  Shot 
another  in  the  body,  but  my  ball  being  small  he  likewise  escaped;  wounded 
another  deer.  Being  now  hungry,  cold,  and  fatigued,  after  having 
wounded  three  deer  and  two  elk,  we  were  obliged  to  encamp,  in  a  point  of 


OF  THE   MISSISSIPPI.  69 

hemlock  woods,  on  the  head  of  Clear  river.  The  large  herd  of  elk  lay 
about  one  mile  from  us,  in  the  prairie.  Our  want  of  success  I  ascribe  to 
the  smallness  of  our  balls,  and  to  our  inexperience  in  following  the 
track,  after  wounding  them,  for  it  is  very  seldom  a  deer  drops  on  the  spot 
where  he  is  shot. 

Sunday,  3d  November. — Rose  pretty  early  and  went  in  pursuit  of  the 
elk;  wounded  one  buck  deer  on  the  way.  Made  an  attempt  to  drive  them 
into  the  woods,  but  their  leader  broke  past  us,  and  it  appeared  as  if  the 
drove  would  have  followed  him,  though  they  had  been  obliged  to  run  over 
us:  we  fired  at  them  passing,  but  without  effect.  Pursued  them  through 
the  swamp  till  about  ten  o'clock,  when  I  determined  to  attempt  to  make 
the  river,  and  for  that  purpose  took  a  due  south  course;  passed  many 
droves  of  elk  and  buffalo,  but  being  in  the  middle  of  an  immense  prairie, 
knew  it  was  folly  to  attempt  to  shoot  them.  Wounded  several  deer,  but 
got  none;  in  fact,  I  knew  I  could  shoot  as  many  deer  as  anybody,  but 
neither  myself  nor  companion  could  find  one'  in  ten,  where  an  experienced 
hunter  would  have  got  all  he  shot.  Near  night  we  struck  a  lake  about 
five  miles  long,  and  two  miles  wide:  saw  immense  droves  of  elk  on  both 
banks.  About  sundown  we  saw  a  herd  crossing  the  prairie  towards  us, 
which  induced  us  to  sit  down;  two  bucks,  more  curious  than  the  others, 
came  pretty  close.  I  struck  one  of  them  behind  the  fore  shoulder;  he 
did  not  go  more  than  twenty  yards,  before  he  fell  and  died.  This  was  the 
cause  of  much  exultation,  because  it  fulfilled  my  determination,  and  as  we 
had  been  two  days  and  nights  without  victuals,  it  was  a  very  acceptable 
prize.     We  found  during  our  excursion  some  scrub  oak. 

After  having  proceeded  about  a  mile  farther,  we  made  a  fire,  and 
with  much  labour  and  pains  got  our  meat  to  it ;  the  wolves  feasting  upon 
one  half,  while  we  were  carrying  away  the  other.  We  were  now  provis- 
ioned, but  were  still  in  want  of  water;  the  snow  being  all  melted;  find- 
ing my  thirst  very  excessive  in  the  night,  I  went  in  search  of  water,  and  was 
much  surprised,  after  having  gone  about  a  mile,  to  strike  the  Mississippi : 
here  I  filled  my  hat,  and  returned  to  my  companion. 

Monday,  4th  November. — Repaired  my  mockinsons,  using  a  piece  of 
elk's  bone  as  an  awl.  We  both  went  to  the  Mississippi,  and  found  we 
were  a  great  distance  from  the  camp.  I  left  Miller  to  guard  the  meat, 
and  marched  for  camp:  having  strained  my  ancles  in  the  swamps,  they  were 


70  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

extremely  painful,  and  the  strings  of  my  mockinsons  cut  them,  and  made 
them  swell  considerably.  Before  I  had  proceeded  far,  I  discovered  a  herd 
of  ten  elk;  I  approached  within  fifty  yards,  and  shot  one  through  the  body; 
he  fell  on  the  spot,  but  rose  again  and  ran  off.  I  pursued  him  at  least  five 
miles,  expecting  every  minute  to  see  him  drop;  I  then  gave  him  up.  When 
I  arrived  at  Clear  river,  a  deer  was  standing  on  the  other  bank;  I  killed 
him  on  the  spot,  and  while  I  was  taking  out  the  entrails  another  came 
up.  I  shot  him  also:  this  was  my  last  ball,  and  then  only  could  I  kill !  I 
left  part  of  my  cloaths  at  this  place  to  scare  the  wolves:  arrived  at  my 
camp  at  dusk,  to  the  great  joy  of  our  men,  who  had  been  to  our  little  gar- 
rison to  inquire  for  me,  and,  receiving  no  intelligence,  had  concluded  we 
had  been  killed  by  the  Indians,  having  heard  them  fire  on  the  opposite 
bank.  The  same  night  we  saw  fires  on  the  opposite  shore  in  the  prairie; 
this  was  likewise  seen  from  the  fort,  when  all  the  men  moved  in  the  works. 

Tuesday,  5th  November. — Sent  four  of  my  men  with  our  canoe,  loaded 
with  the  remains  of  nine  deer  that  had  been  killed,  with  the  other  two. 
Went  down  the  river  for  my  meat,  stopped  for  the  deer,  which  I  found 
safe.  Miller  had  just  started  to  march  home,  but  returned  to  camp. 
Found  all  the  meat  safe  and  brought  it  to  the  river,  where  we  pitched  our 
camp. 

Wednesday,  6th  November. — At  the  earnest  entreaties  of  my  men,  and 
with  the  hope  of  killing  some  more  game,  I  agreed  to  stay  and  hunt.  We 
went  out  and  found  that  all  the  elk  and  buffalo  had  the  day  before  gone  down 
the  river  from  those  plains,  leaving  large  roads  to  point  out  their  course. 
This  did  not  appear  extraordinary  to  us,  as  the  prairie  had  unluckily 
caught  fire.  After  Miller  left  the  camp  for  home,  Sparks  killed  two  deer 
about  six  miles  off,  and  it  being  near  the  river,  I  sent  the  three  men  down 
with  the  canoe,  with  orders  to  return  early  in  the  morning.  It  com. 
menced  snowing  about  midnight,  and  by  morning  the  snow  was  six  inches 
deep. 

Thursday,  7th  November. — Waited  all  day  with  the  greatest  anxiety  for 
my  men.  The  river  became  nearly  filled  with  snow,  partly  congealed  into 
ice;  my  situation  can  more  easily  be  imagined  than  described.  I  went 
down  the  river  to  where  I  understood  the  deer  were  killed,  but  discovered 
nothing  of  the  men.  I  became  very  uneasy  on  their  account,  for  I  was 
well  aware  of  the  hostile  disposition  of  the  Indians  to  all  persons  on  this 


OF   THE   MISSISSIPPI.  71 

part  of  the  Mississippi,  taking  them  to  be  traders,  and  we  had  not  had  an 
opportunity  of  explaining  to  them  who  we  were.  Snow  still  continued 
falling  very  fast,  and  was  nearly  knee  deep.  Had  great  difficulty  to  pro- 
cure wood  sufficient  to  keep  up  a  fire  during  the  night.  Ice  in  the  river 
thickening. 

Friday,  8th  November  — My  men  not  yet  arrived,  I  determined  to 
depart  for  the  garrison,  and  when  the  river  had  frozen,  to  come  down  on 
the  ice  with  a  party,  or  if  the  weather  became  mild,  by  water,  with  my 
other  perroques  to  search  for  them.  Put  up  about  ten  pounds  of  meat, 
two  blankets  and  a  bear  skin,  with  my  sword  and  gun;  which,  together, 
made  for  me  a  very  heavy  load.  I  left  the  meat  in  as  good  a  situation  as 
possible;  wrote  on  the  snow  my  wishes,  and  put  my  handkerchief  up  as  a 
flag.  My  anxiety  was  so  great  that,  notwithstanding  my  load  and  the 
depth  of  the  snow,  I  entered  the  bottom  above  our  former  hunting  camp 
a  little  before  night.  Passed  several  deer  and  one  elk,  which  I  might 
probably  have  killed,  but  not  knowing  whether  I  should  be  able  to  secure 
the  meat,  and  bearing  in  mind  that  they  were  created  for  the  use  and  not 
the  sport  of  man,  I  did  not  fire  at  them.  Whilst  I  was  endeavouring  to 
strike  fire,  I  heard  voices,  and  looking  around,  observed  my  Corporal 
Meek  and  three  men  passing;  called  them  to  me,  and  we  embarked 
together.  They  were  on  their  march  down  to  see  if  they  could  render  us 
any  assistance  in  ascending  the  river.  They  were  much  grieved  to  hear 
my  report  of  Corporal  Bradley,  Sparks,  and  Miller. 

Saturday,  9th  November. — Snowed  a  littl^:  the  men  carried  my  pack. 
I  was  so  sore,  that  it  was  with  difficulty  I  carried  my  gun.  Fortunately 
they  brought  with  them  a  pair  of  mockinsons,  sent  me  by  one  of  my 
soldiers  (O wings)  who  had  rightly  calculated  that  I  was  barefoot;  also  a 
phial  of  whiskey,  sent  by  the  sergeant,  which  were  both  very  acceptable  to 
me.  They  brought  also  some  tobacco  for  my  lost  men.  We  experienced 
difficulty  in  crossing  the  river  owing  to  the  ice.  Here  I  set  all  hands  to 
work  making  sledges,  in  order  that  the  moment  the  river  closed,  I  might 
descend  with  a  strong  party,  in  search  of  our  missing  companions.  Issued 
provision,  and  was  obliged  to  use  six  venison  hams,  being  part  of  a  quan- 
tity of  choice  ones  I  had  preserved,  to  take  down  if  possible  to  the  Gene- 
ral and  some  other  friends.  Had  the  two  hunters  not  been  found,  I  must 
have  become  a  slave  to  hunting,  in  order  to  support  my  party;  the  ice  still 
ran  very  thick. 


72  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

Sunday,  loth  November. — Continued  making  sledges.  No  news  of 
my  hunters ;  ice  in  the  river  very  thick  and  hard.  Raised  my  tent  with 
punchions,  and  laid  a  floor  in  it. 

Monday,  iith  November. — I  went  out  hunting;  saw  but  two  deer; 
killed  a  remarkably  large  black  fox.  Bradley  and  Miller  arrived,  having 
understood  the  writing  on  the  snow,  and  left  Sparks  behind  at  the  camp  to 
take  care  of  the  meat. 

Their  detention  was  owing  to  their  being  lost  on  the  prairie  the  first 
night,  and  not  being  able  to  find  their  deer. 

Ttiesday,  12th  November. — Despatched  Miller  and  Huddleston  to  the 
lower  hunting  camp,  and  Bradley  and  Brown  to  hunt  in  the  woods.  Made 
my  arrangements  in  camp.     Thawing  weather. 

Wednesday,  1 3th  November. — Bradley  returned  with  a  very  large  buck, 
which  supplied  us  for  the  next  four  days. 

Thursday,  14th  November. — It  commenced  raining  at  four  o'clock, 
A.  M.,and  continued  with  lightning  and  loud  thunder.  I  went  down  the 
river  in  one  of  my  canoes  with  five  men,  in  order  to  bring  up  the  meat 
from  the  lower  camp;  but  after  descending  about  thirteen  miles,  found 
the  river  blocked  up  with  ice — returned  about  two  miles,  and  encamped 
in  the  bottom  where  I  had  my  hunting  camp  on  the  first  instant. 
Extremely  cold  towards  night. 

Friday,  1  ^th.  November. — When  we  intended  to  embark  in  the  morn- 
ing, found  the  river  full  of  ice  and  hardly  moving ;  returned  to  camp  and 
went  out  to  hunt,  for  we  had  no  provision  with  us:  killed  nothing  but  five 
prairie  hens,  which  afforded  us  this  day's  subsistence:  this  bird  I  took  to  be 
the  same  as  grouse.  Expecting  the  ice  had  become  hard  we  attempted  to 
cross  the  river,  but  without  success;  in  the  endeavour  one  man  fell 
through. 

Saturday,  i6th  November. — Detached  Corporal  Meek  and  one  private 
to  the  garrison,  to  order  the  sledge  down.  No  success  in  hunting  except 
a  few  fowls:  I  began  to  consider  the  life  of  a  hunter  a  very  slavish  one, 
and  extremely  precarious  as  to  support;  for  sometimes  I  have  myself 
(although  no  hunter)  killed  six  hundred  weight  of  meat  in  one  day;  and 
at  others,  I  have  hunted  three  days  successively,  without  killing  any  thing 
but  a  few  small  birds,  which  I  was  obliged  to  do  to  keep  my  men  from 
starving.     Freezing.    . 


OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.  73 

Sunday,  17th  November. — One  of  my  men  arrived,  he  had  attempted 
to  make  the  camp  before,  but  lost  himself  in  the  prairie,  lay  out  all  night 
and  froze  his  toes:  he  informed  us  that  the  corporal  and  the  men  I  sent 
with  him,  had  their  toes  frost-bitten,  the  former  very  badly;  that  three 
men  were  on  their  way  down  by  land,  the  river  above  not  being  frozen 
over.     They  arrived  a  few  hours  before  night.     Freezing. 

Monday,  i8th  November. — Took  our  departure  down  the  river  on  the 
ice,  our  baggage  on  the  sledge.  Ice  very  rough;  distance  twelve  miles. 
Freezing. 

Tuesday,  19th  November. — Arrived  opposite  our  hunting  camp  about 
noon,  had  the  meat,  &c.,  moved  over;  the  men  had  a  large  quantity.  I 
went  out  and  killed  a  very  large  buck.     Thawing. 

Wednesday,  20th  November. — Departed  to  return  to  the  stockade; 
part  of  our  meat  on  the  sledge,  and  part  in  the  little  perroque,  (the  river 
being  open  in  the  middle ;)  killed  four  deer.  Thawing ;  distance  advanced, 
five  miles. 

Thursday,  21st  Novem,ber. — Marched  in  the  morning  —  came  to  a 
place  where  the  river  was  very  narrow,  and  the  channel  blocked  up,  where 
we  were  obliged  to  unload  our  perroque  and  haul  her  over:  the  river 
having  swelled  a  good  deal  in  this  place,  the  ice  gave  way  with  myself 
and  two  men;  we  seized  the  sledge  that  stood  by  us,  with  some  little 
baggage  on  it,  and  by  jumping  over  four  cracks,  the  last  two  feet 
wide,  providentially  made  our  passage  good,  without  losing  an  individual 
thing.  Encamped  opposite  Clear  river;  killed  one  deer  and  one  otter: 
freezing. 

Friday,  22d  November. — Were  obliged  to  leave  our  canoe  at  Clear 
river,  the  Mississippi  being  closed:  made  two  trips  with  our  sledge. 
Killed  one  deer;  distance  advanced,  five  miles. 

Saturday,  23d  November. — Having  seen  a  great  deal  of  buffalo  signs, 
I  determined  to  kill  one  the  next  day,  (forgetting  my  former  chase.) 
Encamped  nearly  opposite  our  camp  of  the  15th  and  i6th.  Thawing; 
distance  advanced,  four  miles. 

Sunday,  24th  November. — Took  Miller  and  Boley,  and  went  in  pursuit 
of  buffalo.  We  came  up  with  some  about  ten  o'clock ;  in  the  afternoon 
wounded  one,  pursued  them  until  night  and  encamped  on  the  side  of  a 
swamp.     Thawing. 


74  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

Monday,  25th  November. —  Commenced  again  the  pursuit  of  the 
buffalo,  and  continued  it  till  eleven  o'clock,  when  I  gave  up  the  chase. 
Arrived  at  the  camp  about  sundown,  hungry  and  weary,  having  eaten 
nothing  since  we  left  it.  My  rifle  carried  too  small  a  ball  to  kill  buffalo; 
the  balls  should  not  be  more  than  thirty  to  a  pound,  an  ounce  ball  would 
be  still  preferable,  and  the  animal  should  be  hunted  on  horseback:  I  think 
that  in  the  prairies  of  this  country  the  bow  and  arrow  could  be  used  to 
more  advantage  than  the  gun;  for  you  might  ride  immediately  alongside, 
and  strike  them  where  you  pleased,  then  leave  them  and  proceed  after 
others. 

Tuesday,  26th  November. — Proceeded  up  the  river;  the  ice  getting 
very  rotten,  the  men  fell  through  several  times.  Thawing;  distance 
advanced,  five  miles. 

Wednesday,  27th  November. — Took  one  man  with  me  and  marched  to 
the  fort,  found  all  well.  My  hunter,  Bradley,  had  killed  eleven  deer  since 
my  departure:  sent  all  the  men  down  to  help  the  party  up;  they  returned 
accompanied  by  two  Indians,  who  informed  me  they  belonged  to  a  band 
who  resided  on  Lake  Superior,  called  Pols  Avoins;  but  spoke  the  language 
of  the  Chippeways.  They  told  me  that  Mr.  Dickson's  and  the  other 
trading  houses  were  established  about  sixty  miles  below — that  there  were 
seventy  lodges  of  Sioux  on  the  Mississippi.  All  my  men  arrived  at  the 
post.  We  brought  from  our  camp  below  the  residue  of  seventeen  deer 
and  two  elks. 

Thursday,  28th  November. — The  Indians  departed  much  pleased  with 
their  reception.  I  despatched  Corporal  Meek  and  one  private  down  to 
Mr.  Dickson  with  a  letter,  which  would  at  least  have  the  effect  of  attaching 
the  most  powerful  tribes  in  this  quarter  to  my  interest. 

Friday,  29th  November. — A  Sioux,  (the  son  of  a  warrior  called  the 
Killeur  Rouge,  of  the  Gens  des  Feuilles,)  and  a  Pols  Avoin,  came  to  the 
post:  the  young  chief  said  that  having  struck  our  trail  below,  and  finding 
some  to  be  shoe-tracks,  he  had  conceived  it  to  be  the  establishment  of 
some  traders,  followed  it  and  came  to  the  post.  He  informed  me,  that 
Mr.  Dickson  had  told  the  Sioux,  "That  they  might  now  hunt  where  they 
pleased,  as  I  had  gone  before  and  would  cause  the  Chippeways,  wherever 
I  met  them,  to  treat  them  with  friendship;  that  I  had  barred  up  the 
mouth  of  the  St.  Peter's,  so  that  no  liquor  could  ascend  that  river;  but  if 


OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.  75 

they  came  on  the  Mississippi,  they  should  have  what  they  wanted:  also 
that  I  was  on  the  river,  and  had  a  great  deal  of  merchandise  to  give  them 
in  presents."  This  information  of  Mr.  Dickson  to  the  Indians,  seemed  to 
have  self-interest  and  envy  for  its  motives;  for  by  giving  the  Indians  the 
idea  of  my  having  prevented  liquor  from  going  up  the  St.  Peter's,  he  led 
them  to  understand,  that  it  was  a  regulation  of  my  own,  and  not  a  law  of 
the  United  States;  and  by  assuring  them  he  would  sell  to  them  on  the 
Mississippi,  he  drew  all  the  Indians  from  the  traders  on  the  St.  Peter's, 
who  had  adhered  to  the  restriction  of  not  selling  liquor;  and  should  any 
of  them  be  killed,  the  blame  would  all  be  made  to  rest  on  me,  as  he  had 
(without  authority)  assured  them  they  might  hunt  in  security.  I  took  care 
to  give  the  young  chief  a  full  explanation  of  my  ideas  on  the  above  points. 
He  remained  all  night.     Killed  two  deer. 

Saturday,  30th  November. — I  made  the  two  Indians  some  small  pres- 
ents; they  crossed  the  river  and  departed.  Detached  Kennerman  with 
eleven  men  to  bring  up  two  canoes. 

Sunday,  ist  December. — Snowed  a  little  in  the  middle  of  the  day; 
went  out  with  my  gun,  but  killed  nothing. 

Monday,  2d  December. — Sparks  arrived  about  ten  o'clock  at  night  from 
the  party  below,  and  informed  me  they  could  not  kill  any  gan'ie;  but  had 
started  up  with  the  little  perroque:  also  that  Mr.  Dickson  and  a  French- 
man had  passed  my  detachment  about  three  hours  before;  he  left  them  on 
their  march  to  the  post. 

Tuesday,  3d  December. — Mr.  Dickson  with  one  engagee,  and  a  young 
Indian,  arrived  at  the  fort;  I  received  him  with  every  politeness  in  my 
power,  and  after  a  serious  conversation  with  him  on  the  subject  of  the 
information  given  me  on  the  2Qth  ult.,.was  induced  to  believe  it  in  part 
incorrect.  He  assured  me  that  no  liquor  was  sold  by  him,  nor  by  any 
houses  under  his  direction:  he  gave  me  much  useful  information  relative  to 
my  future  route,  which  afforded  me  great  encouragement  as  to  the  cer- 
tainty of  accomplishing  the  object  of  my  voyage,  to  the  fullest  extent. 
He  seemed  to  be  a  gentleman  of  general  commercial  knowledge,  and  pos- 
sessed of  much  geographical  information  respecting  the  western  country, 
and  of  open  frank  manners.  He  gave  me  many  assurances  of  his  good 
wishes  for  the  prosperity  of  my  undertaking. 

Wednesday,  4th  December. — My  men  arrived  with  one  canoe  only. 


76  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

Thursday,  5th  December. — Mr.  Dickson  with  his  two  men  departed 
for  their  station,  after  having  furnished  me  with  a  letter  for  a  young  man 
of  his  house,  on  Lake  De  Sable,  and  a  carte  blanche  as  to  my  commands 
on  him.     Weather  mild. 

Friday,  6th  December  — I  despatched  my  men  to  bring  up  the  other 
perroque  with  a  strong  sledge,  on  which  it  was  intended  to  put  the  canoe 
about  one-third,  and  to  let  the  end  drag  on  the  ice.  The  families  of  the 
Fols  Avoins  arrived  and  encamped  near  the  fort;  also  one  Sioux,  who  pre- 
tended to  have  been  sent  to  me  from  the  Gens  des  Feuilles,  to  inform  me 
that  the  Yanctongs  and  Sussitongs  (two  bands  of  Sioux  from  the  head  of 
the  St.  Peter's  and  Missouri,  and  the  most  savage  of  the  tribe)  had  com- 
menced the  war  dance,  and  would  depart  in  a  few  days;  in  which  case  he 
conceived  it  would  be  advisable  for  the  Fols  Avoins  to  keep  close  under 
my  protection:  that  making  a  stroke  on  the  Chippeways  would  tend  to 
injure  the  grand  object  of  my  voyage,  &c.,  &c.  Some  reasons  induced 
me  to  believe  he  was  a  self-created  envoy;  however  I  offered  to  pay  him, 
or  any  young  Sioux,  who  would  go  to  those  bands,  and  carry  my  word;  he 
promised  to  make  known  my  wishes  on  his  return.  My  men  came  back  in 
the  evening  without  my  canoe,  having  been  so  unfortunate  as  to  split  her, 
in  carrying  her  over  the  rough  hilly  ice  in  the  ripples  below.  So  many  dis- 
appointments almost  wearied  my  patience;  but,  notwithstanding,  I  intended 
to  embark  by  land  and  water  in  a  few  days. 

Saturday,  7th  December. — An  Indian  (by  the  name  of  the  Chien 
Blanc)  of  the  Fols  Avoin  tribe,  with  his  family  and  connections,  arrived 
and  encamped  near  the  stockade.  He  informed  me  that  he  had  wintered 
here  for  ten  years  past,  that  the  sugar-camp  near  the  stockade  was  the 
place  where  he  made  sugar:  he  appeared  to  be  an  intelligent  man,  I 
visited  his  camp  in  the  afternoon  and  found  him  seated  amidst  his  children 
and  grand-children,  amounting  in  all  to  ten;  his  wife,  although  of  an 
advanced  age,  was  suckling  two  infants,  who  appeared  to  be  about  two 
years  old.  I  should  have  taken  them  to  be  twins  had  not  one  been  much 
fairer  than  the  other.  Upon  enquiry,  I  found  that  the  fairest  was  the 
daughter  of  an  Englishman,  by  one  of  the  Indians  lately  deceased,  since 
whose  death  the  grandmother  had  taken  it  to  the  breast.  His  lodge  was 
made  of  rushes,  plaited  into  mats,  after  the  manner  of  the  Illinois.  I  was 
obliged  to  give  some  meat  to  all  the  Indians  who  arrived  at  the  stockade. 


OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.  'J^ 

at  the  same  time  explaining  our  situation:  the  Chien  Blanc  assured  me  it 
should  be  repaid  with  interest  in  the  course  of  the  winter;  but  that,  at  this 
time,  he  was  without  any  thing  to  eat.  In  fact,  our  hunters  having  killed 
nothing  for  several  days,  we  were  ourselves  on  short  allowance. 

Sunday,  8th  December. — An  invalid  Sioux  arrived  with  information 
that  the  bands  of  the  Sussitongs  and  Yanctongs  had  actually  determined 
to  make  war  upon  the  Chippeways,  and  had  formed  a  party  of  a  hundred 
and  fifty  or  a  hundred  and  sixty  men;  but  that  part  of  the  Sussitongs  had 
refused  to  join  with  them,  and  would  be  with  me  on  a  visit  the  next  day: 
this  occasioned  me  to  delay  crossing  the  river  on  my  voyage  to  Lake 
Sang  Sue,  or  Leech  lake,  as  it  was  possible  that  by  having  a  conference 
with  them  I  might  still  prevent  the  stroke  intended  to  be  made  against 
the  Chippeways. 

Monday,  9th  December. — Prepared  to  embark.  Expecting  the  Sioux, 
I  had  two  large  kettles  of  soup  made  for  them.  As  a  pastime,  had  a 
shooting  match  with  four  prizes.  The  Sioux  did  not  arrive,  and  we  ate 
the  soup  ourselves:  crossed  the  river,  and  encamped  above  the  rapids; 
wind  changed  and  the  weather  grew  cold. 

Tuesday,  loth  December. — After  arranging  our  sledges*  and  perroques, 
we  commenced  our  march,  the  sledges  on  the  prairie  and  the  perroque 
towed  by  three  men.  We  found  it  extremely  difficult  to  get  along,  the 
snow  being  melted  off  the  prairie  in  spots.  The  men  who  had  the  canoe 
were  obliged  in  many  places  to  wade,  and  drag  her  over  the  rocks.  I  shot 
the  only  deer  I  saw;  it  fell  three  times,  and  afterwards  made  its  escape. 
This  was  a  great  disappointment,  for  upon  the  game  we  took  we  now 
depended  for  our  subsistence.  This  evening  disclosed  to  my  men  the  real 
danger  they  had  to  encounter.     Distance  advanced,  five  miles. 

Wednesday,  i  ith  December. — It  having  thawed  all  night,  the  snow  had 
almost  melted  from  the  prairie.  I  walked  on  until  ten  o'clock,  and  made 
a  fire.  I  then  returned  to  look  for  the  perroque,  and  at  a  remarkable 
rapid  in  the  river,  opposite  to  a  high  piney  island,  made  a  fire,  and  waited 
for  them  to  come  up,  when  we  partly  unloaded  her;  I  returned  and  met 
the  sledges.     When  we  arrived  at  the  place  pitched  on  for  our  camp,   I 

*  My  sledges  were  such  as  are  frequently  seen  about  farmers'  yards,  calculated  to 
hold  two  barrels  or  four  hundred  weight,  in  which  two  men  were  geared  abreast. 


78  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

sent  the  men  down  to  assist  the  perroque.  In  the  afternoon,  from  about 
three  o'clock,  we  heard  the  report  of  not  less  than  fifty  guns  a-head, 
and  after  dusk,  much  shouting  on  the  prairie.  I  was  at  a  loss  to  know 
who  the  party  could  be,  unless  they  were  Sauteurs,  and  what  could  be  their 
object  in  shooting  after  dusk:  kept  a  good  look  out;  distance  advanced, 
five  miles. 

Thursday,  12th  December. — The  snow  having  almost  entirely  left  the 
prairie,  we  were  obliged  to  take  on  but  one  sledge  at  a  time,  and  treble 
man  it.  In  the  morning  my  interpreter  came  to  me  with  quite  a  martial 
air,  and  requested  that  he  might  be  allowed  to  go  a-head  to  discover  what 
Indians  we  had  heard  firing  lasC  evening.  I  gave  him  permission,  and 
away  he  went:  shortly  after,  I  went  out  with  Corporal  Bradley  and  a 
private;  and  in  about  an  hour  overtook  my  partisan,  on  a  bottom,  close  to 
the  river — he  was  hunting  rackoons,  and  had  caught  five.  We  left  him  to 
his  amusement,  and  after  choosing  an  encampment,  and  sending  the 
private  back  to  conduct  the  party  to  it,  anxious  to  discover  the  Indians, 
the  corporal  and  myself  marched  on.  We  ascended  the  river  about  eight 
miles,  and  saw  no  Indians,  but  found  that  the  river  was  frozen  over,  which 
pleased  me  more,  for  we  should  now  be  enabled  to  walk  three  times  our 
usual  distance  in  a  day.  I  was  much  surprised  at  discovering  no  Indians. 
After  our  return  to  the  camp,  I  was  told  that  a  Fols  Avoin  Indian  had  met 
my  party,  and  informed  them,  that  in  the  rear  of  the  hills  that  bordered 
the  prairie  there  were  small  lakes,  which  by  portages  communicated  with 
Lake  Superior;  that  in  one  day's  march  along  that  course,  we  should  find 
English  trading  houses;  that  the  Chippeways  were  there  hunting;  that  the 
Sioux  who  had  visited  my  camp  on  the  29th  ult.  on  hearing  the  firing  had 
prudently  returned,  with  his  companions,  to  the  western  side  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi, agreeably  to  my  advice. 

How  greatly  would  persons  unacquainted  with  the  searching  spirit  of 
trade,  and  the  enterprize  of  the  people  of  the  North-west,  be  surprised  to 
find  men  who  had  penetrated  from  Lake  Superior  to  lakes  which  were  little 
better  than  marshes!  It  may  serve  to  point  out  the  difficulty  of  putting  a 
barrier  to  their  trade.  All  my  sledges  and  perroques  did  not  get  up  until 
half  past  ten  o'clock;  saw  a  very  beautiful  fox,  called  by  my  interpreter 
Reynard  d'argent,  having  a  red  back,  white  tail  and  breast;  but  I  had  no 
opportunity  of  shooting  it:  killed  six  rackoons  and  one  porcupine;  fine 
day;  distance  advanced,  seven  miles. 


OF  THE    MISSISSIPPI.  79 

Friday,  13th  December. — Made  double  trips;  embarked  at  the  upper 
end  of  the  ripples:  it  commenced  snowing  at  three  o'clock.  Bradley  killed 
one  deer,  another  man  killed  one  rackoon;  storm  continued  until  next 
*morning;  distance  advanced  five  miles. 

Saturday,  14th  December. — We  departed  from  our  encampment  at 
the  usual  hour,  but  had  not  advanced  one  mile,  when  the  foremost  sledge, 
which  happened  unfortunately  to  carry  my  baggage  and  ammunition,  fell 
into  the  river.  We  were  all  in  the  water  up  to  our  middles,  recovering 
the  things.  Halted  and  made  a  fire  :  came  on  to  where  the  river  was 
frozen  over;  stopped  and  encamped  on  the  western  shore,  in  a  pine  wood. 
Upon  examining  my  things,  found  all  my  baggage  wet,  and  some  of  my 
books  materially  injured;  but  a  still  greater  misfortune  was,  that  all  my 
cartridges,  and  four  pounds  of  double  battle  super  powder,  which  I  had 
brought  for  my  own  use,  were  destroyed.  Fortunately  my  kegs  of  powder 
were  preserved  dry,  and  some  bottles  of  common  glazed  powder,  which 
were  so  tightly  corked  as  not  to  admit  water.  Had  this  not  been  the  case, 
my  voyage  must  necessarily  have  been  terminated,  for  we  could  not  have 
subsisted  without  ammunition.  During  the  time  of  our  misfortune,  two 
Fols  Avoin  Indians  came  to  us,  one  of  whom  had  been  at  my  stockade  on 
the  29th  ult.  in  company  with  the  Sioux.  I  signified  to  them,  by  signs, 
the  place  of  our  intended  encampment,  and  invited  them  to  come  and 
encamp  with  us.  They  left  me,  and  both  arrived  at  my  camp  in  the  even- 
ing, having  each  a  deer,  which  they  presented  to  me.  I  gave  them  my 
canoe  to  keep  until  spring,  and  in  the  morning,  at  parting,  made  them  a 
small  present.  Sat  up  until  three  o'clock  drying  and  assorting  my  ammu- 
nition, baggage,  &c.:  killed  two  deer;  distance  advanced  four  miles. 

Sunday,  15th  December. — Remained  at  our  camp  making  sledges; 
killed  two  deer:   crossed  and  recrossed  several    Indian  trails  in  the  woods. 

Monday,  i6th  December. — Remained  at  the  same  camp.  Employed 
as  yesterday;  killed  three  deer.  I  wounded  a  buffalo  in  the  shoulder,  and 
by  a  fair  race  overtook  him  in  the  prairie,  and  gave  him  another  shot,  but 
it  being  near  night  left  him  till  the  morning. 

Tuesday,  17th  December. — Departed  from  our  agreeable  encampment 
at  an  early  hour;  found  our  sledges  to  be  very  heavily  loaded;  broke  one 
sledge  runner,  and  were  detained  by  other  circumstances.  Bradley,  Ros- 
seau  (the  interpreter)  and  myself,  killed  some  deer  and  wounded  five  others. 


8o  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

Having  eleven  on  hand  already,  I  found  it  necessary  to  leave  behind 
some  of  my  other  loading.  At  night  we  dug  a  hole,  in  which  we  deposited 
one  barrel  of  pork  and  one  barrel  of  flour,  wrapped  them  up  in  seven  deer 
skins,  to  preserve  them  from  the  damps,  we  then  filled  up  the  hole,  and 
built  our  fire  immediately  over  it. 

Wednesday,  i8th  December. — Did  not  get  off  until  eight  o'clock,  from 
the  delay  in  bringing  in  our  meat.  The  ice  was  now  tolerably  good:  began 
this  day  to  see  the  Chippeways'  encampments  very  frequently,  but  had  not 
entirely  left  the  Sioux  country  on  the  western  shore.  Beautiful  pine 
ridges  now  appeared. 

Thurdsay,  19th  December. — Were  obliged  to  take  to  the  prairie,  from 
the  river  being  open,  but  the  snow  was  frozen  hard,  and  the  sledges  did 
not  sink  deep,  so  that  we  made  a  pretty  good  day's  journey:  killed  one 
deer  and  two  otters:  river  still  open;  distance  advanced,  ten  miles. 

Friday,  20th  December. — Travelled  part  of  the  day  on  the  prairie  and 
part  on  the  ice;  killed  one  deer;  heard  three  reports  of  guns  just  at  sun- 
set from  the  opposite  side  of  the  river :  deposited  one  barrel  of  flour : 
distance  advanced  seven  miles. 

Saturday,  2\s\.  December. — Bradley  and  myself  went  on  a-head,  and 
overtook  my  interpreter,  who  had  left  camp  very  early  in  hopes  of  being 
able  to  see  the  Reviere  de  Corbeau  or  Raven  river,  where  he  had  twice 
wintered.  He  was  immediately  opposite  a  large  island,  which  he  supposed 
to  bear  a  great  resemblance  to  one  at  the  mouth  of  the  above  river ;  but 
finally  he  concluded  it  was  not  the  same,  and  returned  to  camp.  But  this 
proved  to  be  actually  the  river,  as  we  discovered  when  we  got  to  the  head 
of  the  island,  from  which  we  could  see  its  entrance.  This  fact  exposes  the 
ignorance  and  inattention  of  the  French  and  the  traders,  and,  with  the 
exception  of  a  few  intelligent  men,  shews  what  little  confidence  is  to  be 
placed  on  their  information. 

We  ascended  the  Mississippi  about  five  miles  above  the  confluence: 
found  it  not  frozen,  but  in  many  places  not  more  than  one  hundred  yards 
over,  mild  and  still ;  exhibiting  indeed  all  the  appearance  of  a  small  river 
in  a  low  country.  Returned  and  found  my  party,  having  broken  sledges, 
and  had  only  made  good  three  miles,  while  I  had  marched  thirty-five. 

Sunday,  22d  December. — Killed  three  deer.  Owing  to  the  many 
difficult  places  we  had  to  pass,  made  but  four  miles  and  a  half. 


OF  THE    MISSISSIPPI.  8i 

Monday,  23d  December. — Never  did  I  undergo  more  fatigue  than  this 
day,  performing  the  duties  of  hunter,  spy,  guide,  commanding  officer,  &c., 
sometimes  in  front,  sometimes  in  the  rear,  frequently  in  advance  of  my 
party  ten  or  fifteen  miles.  At  night  I  was  scarcely  able  to  write  my  notes 
intelligibly:  killed  two  rackoons.  From  our  sledges  breaking  down,  and 
having  to  make  so  many  portages  on  the  land,  advanced  but   four  miles. 

Tuesday,  24th  December. —  Took  the  latitude  of  the  Raven  island, 
and  found  it  to  be  in  45°  49'  50'  N.  The  Mississippi  becomes  very  nar- 
row above  the  Raven  river,  and  changes  its  direction  from  nearly  N.  to 
N.  E.  generally;  distance  advanced,  ten  miles  and  a  half. 

From  Pine  creek  to  the  He  de  Corbeau  (or  the  river  of  that  name) 
two  small  streams  come  in  on  the  western  shore.  The  first  is  of  little 
consequence,  but  the  second,  called  Elk  river,  is  entitled  to  more  consid- 
eration from  its  communication  with  the  River  St.  Peter's.  The  first 
ascent  to  it  is  a  small  lake;  this  being  crossed,  they  ascend  a  small  stream 
to  a  large  lake,  from  which  they  mark  a  portage  of  four  miles  west,  and 
fall  into  the  Sauteaux  river,  which  they  descend  into  the  River  St.  Peter's. 
On  the  eastern  side  is  one  small  stream  which  heads  towards  lower  Cedar 
lake,  and  is  bounded  by  hills.  The  whole  of  this  distance  is  remarkably 
difficult  to  navigate,  being  one  continued  succession  of  rapids,  shoals  and 
falls;  but  there  is  one  that  deserves  to  be  more  particularly  noted ;  viz.,  • 
the  place  called  by  the  French  La  Chute  de  la  Roche  Peinturee,  or  the 
falls  of  the  Painted  Rock,  which  is  certainly  the  third  obstacle,  in  point 
of  important  navigation,  which  I  met  with  in  my  whole  route. 

The  shore,  where  it  does  not  consist  of  prairie,  is  a  continued  succes- 
sion of  pine  ridges:  the  entrance  of  the  River  de  Corbeau  is  partly  hidden 
by  the  island  of  that  name,  and  discharges  its  waters  into  the  Mississippi, 
above  and  below  it;  the  lowest  channel  bearing  from  the  Mississippi  N. 
65^  W.,the  upper  due  west.  This  place  should,  in  my  opinion,  be  termed 
the  forks  of  the  Mississippi,  the  other  stream  being  nearly  of  equal  magni- 
tude, and  heading  not  far  from  the  same  source,  although  taking  a  much 
more  direct  course  to  their'  junction.  It  may  be  observed  on  the  chart, 
that  from  St.  Louis  to  this  place,  the  course  of  the  river  had  generally 
been  north  to  the  west,  and  that  from  here  it  bore  north-east. 

This  river  affords  the  best  communication  with  the  Red  river,  and 
the  navigation  is  as  follows:     You  may  ascend  the  River  de  Corbeau  one 


82  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

hundred  and  eighty  miles  to  the  entrance  of  the  River  des  Feuilles,  which 
falls  from  the  north-west;  this  you  ascend  one  hundred  and  eighty  miles 
also,  then  make  a  portage  of  half  a  mile  into  the  Otter  Tail  lake,  which  is 
a  principal  source  of  the  Red  river.  The  other  branch  of  the  River  de 
Corbeau  bears  south-west,  and  approximates  with  St.  Peter's.  The  whole 
of  the  river  is  rapid,  and  by  no  means  affording  so  much  water  as  the 
Mississippi:  their  confluence  is  in  latitude  45^  49'  50'  N.  In  this  division 
the  elk,  deer  and  buffalo,  were  probably  in  greater  abundance  than  in  any 
other  part  of  my  whole  voyage. 

Wednesday,  25th  December. — Marched,  and  encamped  at  11  o'clock: 
gave  out  two  pounds  extra  of  meat,  two  pounds  extra  of  flour,  one  gill  of 
whiskey,  and  some  tobacco,  to  each  man,  in  order  to  distinguish  Christmas 
Day:  distance  advanced,  three  miles. 

Thursday,  26th  December. — Damaged  four  sledges,  broke  into  the 
river  four  times,  and  had  four  carrying  places  since  we  left  the  Raven 
river.  The  timber  observed  this  day  was  all  yellow  and  pitch  pine,  of 
which  there  was  scarcely  any  below:  distance  advanced,  three  miles. 

Friday,  27th  December. — After  having  to  pass  two  carrying  places, 
we  arrived  where  the  river  was  completely  closed  with  ice.  After  which 
we  proceeded  with  some  degree  of  speed  and  comparative  ease:  killed  one 
bear.  The  country  on  both  sides  presented  a  dreary  and  barren  prospect 
of  high  rocks,  with  dead  pine  timber:  snow;  distance  advanced,  ten  miles. 

Saturday,  28th  December. — Two  sledges  fell  through  the  ice :  in  the 
morning  passed  a  very  poor  country;  bare  knobs  on  either  side;  but 
towards  evening  the  bottoms  became  larger,  and  the  pine  ridges  well  tim- 
bered. Bradley  and  myself  marched  ten  miles  before  the  sledges :  killed 
one  deer:  distance  advanced,  twelve  miles. 

Sunday,  29th  December. — Cold  windy  day;  met  with  no  material 
interruptions :  passed  some  rapids ;  the  snow  blew  from  the  woods  on  to 
the  river.  We  found  the  country  full  of  small  lakes,  some  three  miles  in 
circumference:  distance  advanced,  twenty-one  miles. 

Monday,  30th  December. — The  snow  having  drifted  on  the  ice,  retarded 
the  sledges:  numerous  small  lakes  and  pine  ridges  continued  to  occur: 
killed  one  otter;  distance  advanced,  twelve  miles. 

Tuesday,  31st  December. — Passed  Pine  river  about  eleven  o'clock. 


OF  THE   MISSISSIPPI.  83 

From  Elk  to  Pine  river  the  Mississippi  continues  to  become  narrower, 
and  has  but  few  islands.  In  this  distance  I  discovered  but  one  rapid, 
which  the  force  of  the  frost  had  not  entirely  covered  with  ice.  The  shores 
in  general  presented  a  dreary  prospect  of  high  barren  knobs,  covered  with 
dead  and  fallen  pine  timber;  to  this  there  were  some  exceptions  of  ridges 
of  yellow  and  pitch  pine,  also  some  small  bottoms  of  lyme,  elm,  oak  and 
ash.  The  adjacent  country,  at  least  two-thirds  of  its  surface,  is  covered 
with  small  lakes,  some  of  which  are  three  miles  in  circumference;  this 
renders  the  communication  impossible  in  summer,  except  with  small  bark 
canoes.  In  this  distance  we  first  met  with  a  species  of  pine,  called  the 
sap-pine;  it  was  equally  unknown  to  myself  and  all  my  party;  it  scarcely 
exceeds  the  height  of  thirty-five  feet,  and  is  very  full  of  projecting  branches. 
The  leaves  are  similar  to  those  of  other  pines,  but  project  out  from  the 
branches  on  each  side  in  a  direct  line,  thereby  rendering  them  flat,  and 
this  form  occasions  the  natives  and  voyagers  to  give  them  the  preference 
on  all  occasions  to  the  branches  of  all  other  trees  for  their  beds,  and  for 
covering  their  temporary  camps;  but  its  greatest  recommendations  consist 
in  its  medicinal  virtues.  The  rind  is  smooth,  with  the  exception  of  little 
protuberances  of  about  the  size  of  a  hazle  nut;  the  top  of  which  being  cut, 
you  squeeze  out  a  glutinous  substance  of  the  consistence  of  honey.  This 
gum  or  sap  gives  its  name  to  the  tree,  and  is  used  by  the  natives  and 
traders  of  the  country  as  a  balsam  for  all  wounds  made  by  sharp  instru- 
ments, or  for  parts  frozen,  and  for  almost  all  other  external  injuries.  My 
poor  fellows  experienced  its  beneficial  qualities,  by  the  application  made 
of  it  to  their  frozen  extremities  in  various  instances. 

The  Pine  river  bears  from  the  Mississippi  N.  30°  E.  although  it 
empties  in  on  that  which  has  hitherto  been  termed  the  western  shore.  It 
is  eighty  yards  wide  at  its  mouth,  and  has  an  island  immediately  at  the 
entrance;  it  communicates  with  Lake  Sang  Sue  or  Leech  lake,  by  the 
following  courses  of  navigation.  In  one  day's  sail  from  the  confluence 
you  arrive  at  the  first  part  of  White  Fish  lake,  which  is  about  six  miles 
long  and  two  wide;  from  thence  you  pursue  the  river  about  two  miles,  and 
come  to  the  second  White  Fish  lake,  which  is  about  three  miles  lone 
and  one  wide;  then  you  have  the  river  for  three  miles  to  the  third  lake,* 
which  is  seven  miles  long  and  two  in  width. 

*  This  I  crossed  on  my  return  from  the  head  of  the  Mississippi  in  February,  it  is 
in  46^  32'  32'  N.  latitude. 


84  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

From  thence  you  follow  the  river  a  quarter  of  a  mile  to  the  fourth 
lake,  which  is  a  circular  one  of  about  five  miles  in  circumference.  From 
thence  you  pursue  the  river  one  day's  sail  to  a  small  lake,  thence  two  days' 
sail  to  a  portage,  which  conveys  you  to  another  lake,  from  whence,  by 
small  portages  from  lake  to  lake,  you  make  the  voyage  to  Leech  lake. 
The  whole  of  this  course  lies  through  ridges  of  pines  or  swamps  of  penenet, 
sap-pine,  hemlock,  &c. 

From  the  River  de  Corbeau  to  this  place  the  deer  are  very  plentiful, 
but  we  found  no  more  buffalo  or  elk. 

At  the  mouth  of  the  Pine  river  there  was  a  Chippcway  encampment 
of  fifteen  lodges  which  had  been  occupied  in  the  summer,  but  was  now 
vacant.  By  the  significations  of  their  marks,  we  understood  that  they  had 
marched  a  party  of  fifty  warriors  against  the  Sioux,  and  killed  four  men 
and  four  women,  which  were  represented  by  images  carved  out  of  pine  or 
cedar.  The  four  men  were  painted  and  put  in  the  ground  to  the  middle, 
having  above  ground  those  parts  which  are  generally  concealed.  By  their 
sides  were  four  painted  poles,  sharpened  at  the  end,  to  represent  the 
women.  Near  this  were  poles  with  deer  skins,  plumes,  silk  handkerchiefs, 
&c.;  also  a  circular  hoop  of  cedar  with  something  attached  representing  a 
scalp.  Near  each  lodge  they  had  holes  dug  in  the  ground,  and  boughs 
ready  to  cover  them,  as  a  retreat  for  their  women  and  children,  if  attacked 
by  the  Sioux  or  other  enemies. 

Wednesday,  istjammry,  1806. — Passed  six  elegant  bark  canoes,  on 
the  bank  of  the  river,  which  had  been  laid  up  by  the  Chippeways ;  also  a 
camp  which  we  conceived  to  have  been  evacuated  about  ten  days.  My 
interpreter  came  after  me  in  a  great  hurry,  conjuring  me  not  to  go  so  far 
a-head,  and  assured  me  that  if  the  Chippeways  encountered  me  without  an 
interpreter,  party,  or  flag,  they  would  certainly  kill  me.  But,  notwith- 
standing this  admonition,  I  went  on  several  miles  farther  than  usual,  in 
order  to  make  discoveries,  conceiving  the  savages  not  to  be  so  barbarous 
or  ferocious,  as  to  fire  on  two  men  (I  had  one  with  me)  who  were  appar- 
ently coming  into  their  country,  trusting  to  their  generosity;  and  knowing 
that  if  we  met  only  two  or  three  we  were  equal  to  them,  I  having  my  gun 
and  pistols  and  my  companion  his  musket.  Made  some  extra  presents  for 
new  year's  day. 

Thursday,  26.  January. —  Fine  warm  day;  discovered  fresh  signs  of 
Indians.     Just  as  we  were  encamping  at  night,  my  sentinel  informed  us, 


OF  THE   MISSISSIPPI.  85 

th?*  some  Indians  were  coming  full  speed  upon  our  trail  or  track.  I 
ordered  my  men  to  stand  by  their  guns  carelessly.  They  were  imme- 
diately at  my  camp,  and  saluted  the  flag  by  a  discharge  of  three  pieces, 
when  four  Chippeways,  one  Englishman,  and  a  Frenchman,  of  the  north- 
west, presented  themselves.  They  informed  us,  that  some  women  having 
discovered  our  trail  gave  the  alarm;  and  not  knowing  but  that  it  might  be 
that  of  their  enemies,  they  had  departed  to  make  a  discovery;  they  had 
heard  of  us  and  respected  our  flag.  Mr.  Grant,  the  Englishman,  had 
only  arrived  the  day  before  from  Lake  de  Sable;  from  which  he  had 
marched  in  one  day  and  a  half.  I  presented  the  Indians  with  half  a  deer, 
which  they  received  thankfully,  for  they  had  discovered  our  fires  some 
days  before,  and  believing  us  to  be  Sioux,  had  not  dared  to  leave  their 
camp.     They  returned,  but  Mr.  Grant  remained  all  night, 

Friday,  t^A  January. —  My  party  marched  early,  but  I  returned  with 
Mr.  Grant  to  his  establishment  on  the  Red  Cedar  lake,  attended  by  one 
corporal.  When  we  came  in  sight  of  Mr.  Grant's  house,  I  observed  the 
flag  of  Great  Britain  ^ying,  and  felt  indignant,  and  cannot  say  what  my 
feelings  would  have  excited  me  to,  had  he  not  informed  me  that  it 
belonged  to  the  Indians.  This  was  not  much  more  agreeable  to  me. 
After  explaining  to  a  Chippeway  warrior,  called  Curly  Head,  the  object 
of  my  voyage,  and  receiving  his  answer,  that  he  would  remain  tranquil 
until  my  return,  we  ate  a  good  breakfast  for  the  country:  departed  and 
overtook  my  sledges  just  at  dusk:  killed  one  porcupine :  distance  advanced, 
sixteen  miles. 

From  Pine  river  to  Red  Cedar  lake,  the  pine  ridges  are  interrupted  by 
large  bottoms  of  elm,  ash,  oak,  and  maple;  the  soil  would  be  very  proper 
for  cultivation.  From  the  appearance  of  the  ice,  which  was  firm  and 
equal,  I  conceive  there  can  be  but  one  ripple  in  this  distance.  Red  Cedar 
lake  lies  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  Mississippi,  at  the  distance  of  six  miles 
from  it,  and  is  nearly  equally  distant  from  the  River  de  Corbeau,  and  Lake 
de  Sable.     Its  form  is  an  oblong,  and  may  be  ten  miles  in  circumference. 

Saturday,  4th  January. — We  made  twenty-eight  points  on  the  river. 
The  shores  here  consisted  of  broad  good  bottom,  wilh  the  usual  timber. 
In  the  night  I  was  awakened  by  the  cry  of  the  sentinel,  calling  repeatedly 
to  the  men  ;  at  length  he  vociferated,  with  an  oath,  "  Will  you  let  the  lieu- 
tenant be  burned  to  death?"     This  immediately  aroused  me;  at  first  I 


86  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

seized  my  arms,  but  looking  around,  I  saw  my  tents  in  flames.  The  men 
flew  to  my  assistance,  and  we  tore  them  down,  but  not  until  they  were 
entirely  ruined.  This,  with  the  loss  of  my  leggings,  mockinsons,  socks, 
&c.,  which  I  had  hung  up  to  dry,  was  no  trivial  misfortune  in  such  a  country 
and  on  such  a  voyage.  But  I  had  reason  to  thank  God,  that  the  powder, 
three  small  casks  of  which  I  had  in  my  tent,  did  not  take  fire ;  if  it  had, 
I  must  certainly  have  lost  all  my  baggage,  if  not  my  life. 

Sunday,  ^th.  January. — Mr.  Grant  promised  to  overtake  me  yester- 
day, but  has  not  yet  arrived.     Distance  advanced,  twenty-seven  miles. 

Monday,  6th  January. —  Bradley  and  myself  walked  up  thirty-one 
points,  in  hopes  of  discovering  Sandy  lake ;  but  finding  a  near  cut  of 
twenty  yards  for  ten  miles,  and  being  fearful  the  sledges  would  miss  it, 
we  returned  twenty-three  points  before  we  found  our  camp.  They  had 
made  only  eight  points:  met  two  Frenchmen  of  the  North-West  company, 
with  about  one  hundred  and  eighty  pounds  on  each  of  their  backs,  with 
rackets  on  ;  they  informed  me  Mr.  Grant  had  gone  on  with  the  French- 
man.    Snow  fell  all  day,  and  was  three  feet  deep  ;  spent  a  miserable  night. 

Tuesday,  "jth  January. — Made  but  eleven  miles,  and  then  were  obliged 
to  send  a-head  and  make  fires  every  three  miles.  Notwithstanding  which, 
the  cold  was  so  intense  that  some  of  the  men  had  their  noses,  others  their 
fingers,  and  others  their  toes  frozen,  before  they  felt  the  cold  sensibly:  had 
a  very  severe  day's  march. 

Wednesday,  8th  January. — Conceiving  I  was  at  no  great  distance 
from  Sandy  lake,  I  left  my  sledges,  and  with  Corporal  Bradley  took  my 
departure  for  that  place,  intending  to  send  him  back  the  same  evening. 
We  walked  on  very  briskly  until  near  night,  when  we  met  a  young  Indian, 
one  of  those  who  had  visited  my  camp  near  Red  Cedar  lake;  I  endeav- 
oured to  explain  to  him,  that  it  was  my  wish  to  go  to  Sandy  lake  that 
evening.  He  returned  with  me  until  we  came  to  a  trail  that  led  across 
the  woods;  this  he  signified  was  a  near  course.  This  I  pursued  with  him, 
and  shortly  after  found  myself  at  a  Chippeway  encampment,  to  which  I 
believe  the  friendly  savage  had  enticed  me  with  an  expectation  that  I 
would  tarry  all  night,  knowing  that  it  was  too  late  to  make  the  lake  in  any 
tolerable  time.  But  upon  my  refusing  to  stay,  he  put  us  in  the  right 
road.  We  arrived  at  the  place  where  the  track  left  the  Mississippi,  at 
dusk,  when  we  traversed  about  two  leagues  of  a  wilderness  without  any 


OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.  87 

very  great  difficulty;  and  at  length  struck  the  shore  of  Sandy  lake,  over  a 
branch  of  which  our  course  lay.  The  snow  having  covered  the  trail  made 
by  the  Frenchmen,  who  had  passed  before  with  the  rackets,  I  was  fearful  of 
losing  ourselves  on  the  lake;  the  consequence  of  which  can  only  be  con- 
ceived by  those  who  have  been  exposed  on  a  lake  or  naked  plain,  during  a 
dreary  night  of  January,  in  latitude  47°,  and  the  thermometer  below  0. 
Thinking  that  we  could  observe  the  bank  of  the  other  shore,  we  kept  a 
straight  course,  and  some  time  after  discovered  lights,  and  on  our  arrival 
were  not  a  little  surprised  to  find  a  large  stockade.  The  gate  being  open, 
we  entered,  and  proceeded  to  the  quarters  of  Mr.  Grant,  where  we  were 
treated  with  the  utmost  hospitality. 

Thursday,  t^th.  January. — Marched  the  corporal  early  in  order  that 
our  men  might  receive  assurances  of  our  safety  and  success.  He  carried 
with  him  a  small  keg  of  spirits,  a  present  from  Mr.  Grant.  The  estab- 
lishment at  this  place  was  formed  twelve  years  since,  by  the  North-West 
Company,  and  was  formerly  under  the  charge  of  a  Mr.  Charles  Brusky. 
It  has  obtained  at  present  such  regularity,  as  to  permit  the  superintendent 
to  live  tolerably  comfortable.  They  have  horses,  which  they  procured 
from  Red  river,  of  the  Indians;  raise  plenty  of  Irish  potatoes,  catch  pike, 
suckers,  pickerel,  and  white  fish  in  abundance.  They  have  also  beaver, 
deer  and  moose,  but  the  provision  they  chiefly  depend  upon  is  wild  oats, 
of  which  they  purchase  great  quantities  from  the  savages,  giving  at  the 
rate  of  about  one  dollar  and  a  half  per  bushel;  but  flour,  pork,  and  salt, 
are  almost  interdicted  to  persons  not  principals  in  the  trade.  Flour  sells 
at  half  a  dollar,  salt  a  dollar;  pork  eighty  cents,  sugar  half  a  dollar;  coffee 
and  tea  four  and  a  half  dollars  per  pound.  The  sugar  is  obtained  from 
the  Indians,  and  is  made  from  the  maple  tree. 

From  Red  Cedar  lake  to  Lake  de  Sable,  on  the  eastern  shore  you 
meet  with  Muddy  river,  which  discharges  itself  into  the  Mississippi  by  a 
mouth  of  twenty  yards  wide,  and  bears  nearly  NE.  We  then  met  with 
Pike  river  on  the  west,  about  seven  miles  below  Sandy  lake,  and  bears 
nearly  north,  up  which  you  ascend  with  canoes  four  days'  sail,  and  arrive 
at  a  wild  rice  lake  which  you  pass  through,  and  enter  a  small  stream  and 
ascend  it  two  leagues,  then  cross  a  portage  of  two  acres  into  a  lake  of 
seven  leagues  in  circumference,  then  two  leagues  of  a  river  into  another 
small  lake.     From  thence  you  descend  the  current  north-east  into  Leech 


88  -      VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

lake.  The  banks  of  the  Mississippi  are  still  bordered  by  pines  of  the 
different  species,  except  a  few  small  bottoms  of  elm,  lyme,  and  maple. 
The  game  scarce,  and  the  Aborigines  subsist  almost  entirely  on  the 
beaver,  with  a  few  moose,  and  the  wild  rice  or  oats, 

Sandy  lake  (or  the  discharge  of  the  said  lake)  is  large,  but  is  only  six 
miles  in  length  from  the  lake  to  its  confluence  with  the  Mississippi. 
The  lake  is  about  twenty-five  miles  in  circumference,  and  has  a  num- 
ber of  small  rivers  running  into  it,  one  of  those  entitled  to  particular 
attention,  viz.,  the  River  Savannah,  which,  by  a  portage  of  three  miles 
and  three-quarters,  communicates  with  the  River  St.  Louis,  which  emp- 
ties into  Lake  Superior  at  the  Fond  du  Lac,  and  is  the  channel  by 
which  the  North-West  Company  bring  all  their  goods  for  the  trade  of 
the  upper  Mississippi.     Game  is  very  scarce  in  this  country. 

Friday,  loth  January. — Mr.  Grant  accompanied  me  to  the  Mis- 
sissippi, to  mark  the  place  for  my  boats  to  leave  the  river.  This  was  the 
first  time  I  marched  on  rackets.  I  took  the  course  of  the  Lake  river  from 
its  mouth  to  the  lake.  Mr.  Grant  fell  through  the  ice  with  his  rackets  on, 
and  could  not  have  got  out  without  assistance. 

Saturday,  \i\!t\.  January. — Remained  all  day  within  quarters. 

Sunday,  1 2th  January. — Went  out  and  met  my  men  about  sixteen 
miles  distant.  A  tree  had  fallen  on  one  of  them  and  hurt  him  very  much, 
which  induced  me  to  dismiss  a  sledge,  and  put  the  loading  on  the 
others. 

Monday,  13th  January.  —  After  encountering  much  difficulty,  we 
arrived  at  the  establishment  of  the  North-West  Company  on  Sandy  lake, 
a  little  before  night.  The  ice  being  very  bad  on  the  Lake  river,  owing 
to  the  many  springs  and  marshes  in  the  neighbourhood,  one  sledge  fell 
through.  My  men  had  an  excellent  room  furnished  them,  and  were 
presented  with  potatoes  and  Jille.*  Mr.  Grant  had  gone  to  an  Indian 
lodge  to  receive  his  credits. 

Tuesday,  14th  January. — Crossed  the  lake  to  the  north  side,  that  .1 
might  take  an  observation ;  found  the  latitude  46^  9'  20"  N.  Surveyed 
that  part  of  the  lake.  Mr.  Grant  returned  from  the  Indian  lodges.  They 
brought  a  quantity  of  furs,  and  eleven  beaver  carcasses. 

*  A  cant  term  for  a  dram  of  spirits. 


OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.  "  89 

Wednesday,  15th  January. — Mr.  Grant  and  myself  made  the  tour  of 
the  lake,  with  two  men  whom  I  had  for  attendants.  I  found  it  to  be  much 
larger  than  could  be  imagined  at  a  view.  My  men  sawed  stocks  for  the 
sledges,  which  I  found  it  necessary  to  construct  after  the  manner  of  the 
country.  On  our  march  met  an  Indian  coming  into  the  fort;  his  coun- 
tenance expressed  no  little  astonishment  when  told  who  I  was,  and  from 
whence  I  had  come,  for  the  people  in  the  country  acknowledge  that  the 
savages  hold  in  greater  veneration  the  Americans  than  any  other  white 
people.  They  say  of  us,  when  alluding  to  warlike  achievements,  that  "  we 
are  neither  Frenchmen  nor  Englishmen,  but  white  Indians." 

Thursday,  i6th  January. —  Laid  down  Sandy  lake,  &c.  A  young 
Indian,  whom  I  had  engaged  to  attend  me  as  a  guide  to  Lake  Sang  Sue,  or 
Leech  lake,  arrived  from  the  woods. 

Friday,  17th  January. —  Employed  in  making  sledges,*  after  the 
manner  of  the  country.  Two  other  Indians  arrived  from  the  woods. 
Engaged  in  writing. 

Saturday,  i8ih  January. —  Busy  in  preparing  my  baggage,  &c.,  for 
my  departure  for  Leech  lake. 

Sunday,  19th  January. — Employed  as  yesterday.  Two  men  of  the 
North- West  Company  arrived  from  Lake  Superior,  with  letters;  one  of 
which  was  for  their  establishment  at  Athapusco,  and  had  been  since  last 
May  on  their  route.  While  at  this  place  I  ate  roasted  beavers,  dressed  in 
every  respect  as  a  pig  is  usually  dressed  with  us;  it  was  excellent;  I  could 
not  discern  the  least  taste  of  wood.  I  also  ate  boiled  Moose's  head;  when 
well  boiled,  I  consider  it  equal  to  the  tail  of  the  beaver;  in  taste  and  sub- 
stance they  are  much  alike. 

Monday,  20th  January. — The  men  with  their  sledges  took  their 
departure  about  two  o'clock ;  shortly  after  I  followed  them.  We  encamped 
at  the  portage  between  the  Mississippi  and  Leech  lake  river.  Snow  fell 
in  the  night. 

Tuesday,  21st  January. — Snowed  in  the  morning,  but  we  crossed 
about  nine  o'clock.  I  had  gone  on  a  few  points,  when  I  was  overtaken  by 
Mr.  Grant,  who  informed  me  that  the  sledges  could  not  get  along  in  con- 
sequence of  the  water  being  on  the  ice;  he  sent  his  men  forward.     We 

*  These  sledges  are  made  of  a  single  plank,  turned  up  at  one  end  like  a  fiddle 
bead,  and  the  baggage  is  lashed  on  in  bags  or  sacks. 


90  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

returned  and  met  the  sledges,  which  had  advanced  one  mile.  We  unloaded 
them,  sent  eight  men  back  to  the  fort  with  whatever  might  be  denominated 
extra  articles,  but  in  my  hurry  sent  my  salt  and  ink.  Mr,  Grant  encamped 
with  me,  and  marched  early  in  the  morning. 

Wednesday,  22d  January. — Made  a  pretty  good  day's  journey.  My 
Indian  came  up  about  noon.     Distance  advanced,  twenty  miles. 

Thursday,  23d  January. — Marched  about  eleven  miles.  Forgot  my 
thermometer,  having  hung  it  on  a  tree ;  sent  Boley  back  five  miles  for  it. 
My  young  Indian  and  myself  killed  eight  partridges  ;  took  him  to  live  with 
me. 

Friday,  24th  January. — At  our  encampment  this  night  (Mr.  Grant 
had  encamped  on  the  night  of  the  same  day  he  left  me)  it  was  three  days' 
march  for  us.  In  the  evening  the  father  of  his  girl  came  to  my  camp,  and 
staid  all  night;  he  appeared  very  friendly,  and  was  very  communicative, 
but  having  no  interpreter,  we  made  but  poor  speed  in  conversation.  It 
was  late  before  the  men  came  up. 

Saturday,  2 ^t\\  January. — Travelled  almost  all  day  through  the  lands 
and  found  them  much  better  than  usual.  Boley  lost  the  Sioux  pipe  stem, 
which  I  carried  along  for  the  purpose  of  making  peace  with  the  Chippe- 
ways ;  I  sent  him  back  for  it ;  he  did  not  return  until  eleven  o'clock  at 
night ;  the  weather  was  very  warm ;  thawing  all  day.  Distance  advanced, 
forty-four  points. 

Sunday,  26th.  January. — I  left  my  party  in  order  to  proceed  to  a  house, 
or  lodge,  of  Mr.  Grant's,  on  the  Mississippi,  where  he  was  to  tarry  until  I 
overtook  him.  Took  with  me  my  Indian,  Boley,  and  some  trifling  pro- 
vision. The  Indian  and  myself  marched  so  fast  that  we  left  Boley  on  the 
route,  about  eight  miles  from  the  lodge.  Met  Mr.  Grant's  men  on  their 
return  to  Sandy  lake,  having  evacuated  the  house  this  morning,  and  Mr. 
Grant  having  marched  to  Leech  lake.  The  Indian  and  myself  arrived 
before  sunset.  Passed  the  night  very  uncomfortably,  having  nothing  to 
eat,  nor  much  wood,  nor  any  blankets.  The  Indian  slept  soundly.  I 
cursed  his  insensibility,  being  obliged  to  content  myself  over  a  few  coals 
all  night.     Boley  did  not  arrive. 

Monday,  27th  January. — My  Indian  rose  early,  mended  his  mockin- 
sons,  then  expressed  by  signs  something  about  his  son  and  the  Frenchman 
we  had  met  yesterday ;  conceiving  that  he  wished  to  send  a  message  to 


OF  THE   MISSISSIPPI.  91 

his  family,  I  suffered  him  to  depart.  After  he  had  left  me  I  felt  the  curse 
of  solitude,  although  in  fact  he  was  no  company.  Boley  arrived  about 
ten  o'clock;  he  said  that  he  had  followed  us  till  some  time  in  the  night, 
when  believing  that  he  could  not  overtake  us,  he  had  stopped  and  made  a 
fire,  but  having  no  axe  to  cut  wood,  he  was  near  freezing.  He  met  the 
Indian,  who  made  him  signs  to  proceed.  I  spent  the  day  in  putting  my 
gun  in  order,  mending  my  mockinsons,  &c.  Provided  plenty  of  wood, 
but  still  found  it  cold  with  but  one  blanket.  I  can  only  account  for  the 
gentlemen  of  the  North-West  Company  contenting  themselves  in  the  wil- 
derness for  ten  or  fifteen  years,  and  some  of  them  for  twenty  years,  by  the 
attachment  they  contract  for  the  Indian  women.  It  appears  to  me  that 
the  wealth  of  nations  would  not  induce  me  to  remain  secluded  from  the 
society  of  civilized  mankind,  surrounded  by  a  savage  and  unproductive 
wilderness,  without  books  or  other  sources  of  intellectual  enjoyment,  or 
being  blessed  with  the  cultivated  and  feeling  mind  of  a  civilized  female 
companion. 

Tuesday,  28th  January. — Left  our  encampment  at  a  good  hour;  una- 
ble to  find  any  trail,  I  passed  through  one  of  the  most  dismal  cypress 
swamps  I  ever  saw,  and  struck  the  Mississippi  at  a  small  lake.  I  observed 
Mr.  Grant's  tracks  going  through  it ;  found  his  mark  of  a  cut  off,  agreed 
on  between  us:  took  it  and  proceeded  very  well,  until  we  came  to  a  small 
lake  where  the  trail  was  entirely  hidden,  but  after  some  search  on  the  other 
side,  found  it  again.  We  then  passed  through  a  dismal  swamp,  on  the 
other  side  of  which  I  found  a  large  lake,  at  which  I  was  entirely  at  a  loss 
as  no  trail  could  be  seen.  I  struck  for  a  point  about  three  miles  distant, 
where  we  found  a  Chippeway  lodge,  of  one  man,  his  wife,  and  five  chil- 
dren, and  one  old  woman.  They  received  us  with  every  mark  that  distin- 
guished their  barbarity;  such  as  setting  their  dogs  on  ours,  trying  to 
thrust  their  hands  into  our  pockets,  &c.,  but  we  convinced  them  that  we 
were  not  afraid,  and  let  them  know  we  were  Cheweckomen  (Americans), 
when  they  used  us  more  civilly.  After  we  had  arranged  a  camp  as  well 
as  we  could,  I  went  into  the  lodge ;  they  presented  me  with  a  plate  of 
dried  meat.  I  ordered  Miller  to  bring  about  two  gills  of  liquor,  which 
made  us  all  good  friends.  The  old  Squaw  gave  me  more  meat,  and  offered 
me  tobacco,  which,  not  using,  I  did  not  take.  I  gave  her  an  order  upon 
my  corporal,  for  one  knife,  and  half  a  carrot  of  tobacco.     Heaven  clothes 


92  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

the  lilies  and  feeds  the  ravens,  and  the  same  Almighty  Providence  pro- 
tects and  preserves  these  creatures.  After  I  had  gone  out  to  my  fire,  the 
old  man  came  and  proposed  to  trade  beaver  skins  for  whiskey;  meeting 
with  a  refusal  he  left  me,  when  presently  the  old  woman  came  out  with  a 
beaver  skin ;  she  also  being  refused,  he  again  returned  to  the  charge,  with 
a  quantity  of  dried  meat,  (this  or  any  other  I  should  have  been  glad  to 
have  had,)  when  I  gave  him  a  peremptory  refusal ;  then  all  further  appli- 
cation ceased.  It  really  appeared,  that  with  one  quart  of  whiskey  I  might 
have  bought  all  they  were  possessed  of.  This  night  proved  remarkably 
cold  ;  I  was  obliged  to  sit  up  nearly  the  whole  of  it.  Suffered  much  with 
cold  and  want  of  sleep. 

Friday,  31st  January. — Took  my  clothes  into  the  Indians'  lodge  to 
dress,  and  was  received  very  cooly;  but  by  giving  the  man  a  dram, 
unasked,  and  his  wife  a  little  salt,  I  received  from  them  directions  for  my 
route.  Passed  the  lake  or  morass,  and  opened  on  meadows,  through 
which  the  Mississippi  winds  its  course  for  nearly  fifteen  miles.  Took  a 
straight  course  through  them  to  the  head,  when  I  found  we  had  missed  the 
river;  made  a  turn  of  about  two  miles  and  regained  it.  Passed  a  fork, 
which  I  supposed  to  be  Lake  Winipic,  making  the  course  N.  W.;  the 
branch  we  took  was  on  Leech  lake  branch,  course  S.  W.  and  W.  Passed 
a  very  large  meadow  or  prairie ;  course  west ;  the  Mississippi  was  here 
only  fifteen  yards  wide.  Encamped  about  one  mile  below  the  traverse  of 
the  meadow.  Saw  a  very  large  animal,  which,  from  its  leaps,  I  supposed 
to  have  been  a  panther ;  but  if  it  was  one,  it  was  twice  as  large  as  those  on 
the  lower  Mississippi.  He  evinced  some  disposition  to  approach:  I  lay 
down  (Miller  being  in  the  rear)  in  order  to  entice  him  to  come  near,  but 
he  would  not.  The  night  remarkably  cold.  Some  spirits  which  I  had  in 
a  small  keg  congealed  to  the  consistence  of  honey. 

Saturday,  ist  February. — Left  our  camp  pretty  early;  passed  a  con- 
tinued train  of  prairie,  and  arrived  at  Leech  lake  at  half  past  two  o'clock. 

I  will  not  attempt  to  describe  my  feelings  on  the  accomplishment  of 
my  voyage  ;  for  this  is  the  main  source  of  the  Mississippi.  The  Lake  Win- 
ipic branch  is  navigable  from  thence  to  Red  Cedar  lake,  for  the  distance 
of  five  leagues,  which  is  the  extremity  of  the  navigation. 

I  crossed  the  lake  twelve  miles  to  the  establishment  of  the  North- 
West  Company,  where  we  arrived  about  three  o'clock.     We  found  all  the 


OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.  93 

gates  locked,  but  upon  knocking  were  admitted,  and  received  with  marked 
attention  and  hospitality  by  Mr.  Hugh  M'Gillis,  who  provided  for  us  a 
good  dish  of  coffee,  biscuit,  butter  and  cheese,  for  supper. 

In  ascending  the  Mississippi  from  Sandy  lake  you  first  meet  with 
Swan  river  on  the  east,  which  bears  nearly  due  east,  and  is  navigable  for 
bark  canoes  ninety  miles  to  Swan  lake;  you  then  meet  with  the  Meadow 
river  which  falls  in  on  the  east,  and  bears  nearly  east  by  north,  and  is 
navigable  for  Indian  canoes  one  hundred  miles:  you  next,  in  ascending, 
meet  with  a  very  strong  ripple,  and  an  expansion  of  the  river  where  it 
forms  a  small  lake.  This  is  three  miles  below  the  falls  of  Packagama,  and 
from  which  the  noise  of  the  shoot  may  be  heard.  The  course  of  the  river 
at  the  falls  was  N.  70''  W.  and  just  below  the  river  is  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
in  width,  but  above  the  shoot  not  more  than  twenty  yards.  The  water 
thus  collected  runs  down  a  flat  rock  which  has  an  elevation  of  about  thirty 
degrees.  Immediately  above  the  fall  is  a  small  island  of  about  fifty  yards 
in  circumference,  covered  with  sap-pine.  The  portage,  which  is  on  the  east 
(or  north)  side,  is  no  more  than  two  hundred  yards,  and  by  no  means 
difificult.  These  falls,  in  point  of  consideration  as  an  impediment  to  the 
navigation,  stand  next  to  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  from  the  source  of  the 
river  to  the  Gulph  of  Mexico.  The  banks  of  the  Mississippi  to  the 
Meadow  river  have  generally  been  timbered  by  the  pine,  pinenet,  hemlock, 
sap-pine,  or  the  aspen  tree.  From  thence  it  winds  through  high  grass 
meadows  (or  savannas)  with  the  pine  swamps  at  a  distance,  appearing  to 
cast  a  deeper  gloom  on  the  borders.  From  the  falls,  in  ascending,  you 
pass  the  Lake  Packagama  on  the  west,  celebrated  for  its  great  production 
of  wild  rice,  and  next  meet  with  the  Deer  river  on  the  east.  The  extent 
of  its  navigation  is  unknown.  You  next  meet  with  the  River  la  Crosse  on 
the  eastern  side  which  bears  nearly  north  and  has  only  a  portage  of  one 
mile  to  pass  from  it  into  the  Lake  Winipic  branch  of  the  Mississippi.  We 
next  came  to  what  the  people  of  that  quarter  call  the  forks  of  the  Missis- 
sippi: the  right  branch  of  which  bears  northwest,  and  runs  eight  leagues  to 
Lake  Winipic,  which  is  of  an  oval  form  about  thirty-six  miles  in  circum- 
ference. From  Lake  Winipic  the  river  continues  five  leagues  to  upper  Red 
Cedar  lake,  which  may  be  termed  the  upper  source  of  the  Mississippi. 
The  Leech  lake  branch,  bears  from  the  forks  south-west,  and  runs  through 
a  chain  of  meadows.     You  pass  Muddy  lake  which  is  scarcely  any  thing 


94  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

more  than  an  extensive  marsh  of  fifteen  miles  circumference;  the  river  bears 
through  it  nearly  north,  after  which  it  again  turns  to  the  west.  In  many 
places  this  branch  is  not  more  than  ten  or  fifteen  yards  in  width,  although 
fifteen  or  twenty  feet  deep;  from  this  to  Leech  lake  the  communication  is 
direct,  and  without  any  impediment.  This  is  rather  considered  as  the 
main  source,  although  the  Winipic  branch  is  navigable  the  greatest 
distance.  To  this  place  the  whole  face  of  the  country  has  the  appearance 
of  an  impenetrable  morass,  or  boundless  savannah:  but  on  the  borders  of 
the  lake  are  some  oak,  and  large  groves  of  sugar-maple,  from  which  the 
traders  make  sufficient  sugar  for  their  consumption  the  whole  year. 
Leech  lake  communicates  with  the  River  de  Corbeau  by  seven  portages, 
and  the  River  des  Feuilles  also  with  the  Red  river  by  the  Otter-tail 
lake  on  the  one  side,  and  by  Red  Cedar  lake,  and  other  small  lakes 
to  Red  lake  on  the  other.  Out  of  these  small  lakes  and  ridges 
rise  the  upper  waters  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  the  Mississippi  and 
*Red  river,  the  latter  of  which  discharges  itself  into  the  ocean  by 
Lake  Winipic  and  Hudson's  bay.  All  these  waters  have  their  upper 
sources  within  one  hundred  miles  of  each  other,  which,  I  think,  plainly 
proves  this  to  be  the  most  elevated  part  of  the  north-east  continent  of 
America.  But  we  must  cross  what  are  commonly  termed  the  Rocky 
mountains,  or  a  spur  of  cordeliers,  previous  to  our  finding  the  waters 
whose  currents  run  westward,  and  pay  tribute  to  the  western  ocean. 

In  this  quarter  we  find  moose,  a  very  few  deer  and  bears,  but  a  vast 
variety  of  fur  animals  ot  all  descriptions. 

Sunday,  2d  February. — I  remained  all  day  within  doors.  In  the  even- 
ing sent  an  invitation  to  Mr.  Anderson,  who  was  an  agent  of  Mr.  Dickson; 
and  also  for  some  young  Indians,  at  his  house,  to  come  over  and  breakfast 
in  the  morning. 

Monday,  3d  February. — Spent  the  day  in  reading,  proposing  some 
queries  to  Mr.  Anderson;  and  preparing  my  young  man  to  return  with  a 
supply  of  provisions  to  my  party. 

Tuesday,  4th  February. — Miller  departed  this  morning.  Mr  Ander- 
son returned  to  his  quarters.  My  legs  and  ancles  were  so  swelled  that  I 
was  not  able  to  wear  my  own  clothes,  and  was  obliged  to  borrow  some 
from  Mr.  M'Gillis. 


nver. 


*  Red  river  discharges  itself  into  Hudson's  bay,  by  Lake  Winipic  and  Nelson's 

r 


OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.  95 

Wednesday,  5th  February. — One  of  Mr.  M'Gillis's  clerks  had  been 
sent  to  some  Indian  lodges,  and  was  expected  to  return  in  four  days,  but 
had  now  been  absent  nine.  Mr.  Grant  was  despatched  in  order  to  find 
out  what  had  become  of  him. 

Thursday,  6th  February. — My  men  arrived  at  the  fort  about  four 
o'clock.  Mr.  M'Gillis  asked,  if  I  had  any  objections  to  his  hoisting  their 
flag,  in  compliment  to  ours.  I  made  none,  as  I  had  not  yet  explained  to  him 
my  ideas.  In  making  a  traverse  of  the  lake,  some  of  my  men  had  their 
ears,  some  their  noses,  and  others  their  chins  frozen. 

Friday,  7th  February — I  remained  within  doors,  my  limbs  being 
still  very  much  swelled;  addressed  a  letter  to  Mr.  M'Gillis  on  the  subject 
of  the  N.  W.  company's  trade  in  this  quarter.* 

Saturday,  8th  February. — Took  the  latitude,  and  found  it  to  be  47° 

16'  13". 

Sunday,  9th  February. — Mr.  M'Gillis  and  myself  paid  a  visit  to  Mr. 
Anderson,  who  resided  at  the  west  end  of  the  lake;  found  him  eligibly 
situated  as  to  trade,  but  his  houses  bad.  I  rode  in  a  cariole  for  one  per- 
son, constructed  in  the  following  manner:  boards  planed  smooth,  turned 
up  in  front  about  two  feet,  coming  to  a  point;  and  about  two  and  a  half 
feet  wide  behind,  on  which  is  fixed  a  box,  covered  with  dressed  skins 
painted;  this  box  is  open  at  the  top,  but  covered  in  front  about  two-thirds 
of  the  length;  the  horse  is  fastened  between  the  shafts,  the  rider  wraps 
himself  up  in  a  buffalo  robe,  sits  flat  down,  having  a  cushion  to  lean  his 
back  against:  thus  accoutred  with  a  fur  cap,  &c.,  he  may  bid  defiance  to 
the  wind  and  weather. 

Upon  our  return,  we  found  that  some  of  the  Indians  had  already 
returned  from  the  hunting  camps;  also  Monsieur  Roussand,  the  gentle- 
man supposed  to  have  been  killed  by  the  Indians;  his  arrival  with  Mr. 
Grant  diffused  a  general  satisfaction  through  the  fort. 

Monday,  loth  February. — Hoisted  the  American  flag  in  the  fort:  the 
English  Jack  still  flying  at  the  top  of  the  fiag-staff,  I  directed  the  Indians 
and  my  rifle-men  to  shoot  at  it :  they  soon  broke  the  iron  pin  to  which  it 
was  fastened,  and  brought  it  to  the  ground. 

Tuesday,  nth  February. — The  Sweet,  Buck,  Burnt,  &c.,  arrived;  all 
chiefs  of  note,  but  the  former  in  particular,  a  venerable  old  man;  from 

*  See  the  letter,  with  Mr.  M'Gillis's  answer,  at  the  end  of  this  Journal. 


96  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

him  !  learnt  that  the  Sioux  occupied  this  ground,  when  (to  use  his  own 
phrase,)  he  was  made  man,  and  began  to  hunt;  that  they  occupied  it  the 
year  that  the  French  missionaries  were  killed  at  the  river  Packagama. 
The  Indians  now  flocked  in  to  us. 

Wednesday,  12th  February. — Bradley  and  myself,  with  Mr.  M'Gillis 
and  two  of  his  men,  left  Leech  lake  at  ,ten  o'clock,  and  arrived  at  the  house 
at  Red  Cedar  lake  at  sunset,  a  distance  of  thirty  miles.  My  ancles  were 
much  swelled,  and  I  was  very  lame. 

From  the  entrance  of  the  Mississippi  to  the  strait  is  called  six  miles, 
along  a  south-west  course  ;  from  thence  to  the  south  end,  south  thirty 
east,  four  miles ;  about  two  and  a  half  from  the  north  side  to  a  large  point. 
This  may  be  called  the  upper  source  of  the  Mississippi,  being  fifteen  miles 
above  little  Lake  Winipic,  and  the  extent  of  canoe  navigation  only  two 
leagues  to  some  of  the  Hudson's  bay  waters. 

Thursday,  13th  February. — We  were  favoured  with  a  beautiful  day; 
took  the  latitude  and  found  it  to  be  47°  42'  40'  N.  It  was  at  this  place 
Mr.  Thompson  made  his  observ^ations  in  1 798,  from  which  he  determined 
that  the  source  of  the  Mississippi  was  47°  38'.  I  walked  about  three 
miles  back  into  the  country;  one  of  our  men  marched  to  Lake  Winipic,  and 
returned  by  one  o'clock  for  the  stem  of  the  Sweet's  pipe,  a  matter  of  more 
consequence  in  his  affairs  with  the  Sioux  than  the  diploma  of  many  an 
ambassador.  We  feasted  on  white  fish  roasted  on  two  iron  grates,  fixed 
horizontally  in  the  back  of  the  chimney — the  entrails  left  in  the  fish. 

Friday,  14th  February. — Left  the  house  at  nine  o'clock.  It  becomes 
me  here  to  do  justice  to  the  hospitality  of  our  hosts,  one  Roy,  a  Canadian, 
and  his  wife  a  Chippeway  squaw;  they  relinquished  for  our  use  the  only 
thing  in  the  house  that  could  be  called  a  bed;  and  attended  us  like  serv- 
ants; nor  could  either  of  them  be  persuaded  to  touch  a  mouthful  until  we 
had  finished  our  repasts. 

We  made  the  garrison  about  sundown,  having  been  drawn  at  least 
ten  miles  in  a  sledge,  by  two  small  dogs,  which  were  loaded  with  two 
hundred  pounds  weight,  and  went  so  fast,  as  to  render  it  difficult  for  the 
men  with  snow-shoes  to  keep  up  with  them.  The  chiefs  asked  permission 
to  dance  the  calumet  dance,  which  I  granted. 

Saturday,  15th  February. — The  Flat-mouth,  chief  of  the  Leech  lake 
village,  and  many  other  Indians  arrived.     Received  a  letter  from  Mr. 


OF  THE   MISSISSIPPI.  97 

M'Gillls,  in  answer  to  mine  of  the  7th.  Noted  down  the  heads  of  my 
speech,  and  had  it  translated  into  French,  in  order  that  the  interpreter, 
might  be  perfectly  master  of  his  subject 

Sunday,  i6th  Febrtiary. — Held  a  council  with  the  chiefs  and  warriors 
at  this  place,  and  of  Red  lake;  but  it  required  much  patience,  coolness, 
and  management  to  obtain  the  object  I  desired,  viz.  That  they  should 
make  peace  with  the  Sioux,  deliver  up  their  medals  and  flags;  and  that  some 
of  the  chiefs  should  attend  me  to  St.  Louis.  As  a  proof  of  their  agreeing 
■to  the  peace,  I  directed  that  they  should  smoke  out  of  the  wabasha's 
pipe,  which  lay  on  the  table;  they  all  complied,  from  the  head  chief  to  the 
young  soldier.  They  generally  delivered  up  their  flags  with  a  good  grace, 
except  the  Flat-mouth,  who  said  he  had  left  his  at  his  camp,  three  days' 
march  distant,  and  promised  to  deliver  them  up  to  Mr.  M'Gillis,  to  be 
forwarded:  with  respect  to  their  accompanying  me  on  my  return,  the  old 
Sweet  thought  it  most  proper  to  return  to  the  Indians  of  Red  lake,  Red 
river,  and  Rainy  lake  river;  the  Flat-mouth  said  it  was  necessary  for  him 
to  restrain  his  young  warriors.  The  other  chiefs  did  not  think  themselves 
of  consequence  sufficient  to  offer  any  reason  for  not  going  with  me  to  St. 
Louis,  a  journey  of  between  two  and  three  thousand  miles,  through  hostile 
tribes  of  Indians.  I  then  told  them,  "That  I  was  sorry  to  find  that  the 
hearts  of  the  Sauteurs  of  this  quarter  were  so  weak  that  the  other  nations 
would  say, — What !  are  there  no  soldiers  at  Leech,  Red  and  Rainy  lakes, 
who  had  the  heart  to  carry  the  calumet  of  their  chief  to  their  father?"  This 
had  the  desired  effect.  The  Buck  and  Beau,  two  of  the  most  celebrated 
young  warriors,  rose  and  offered  themselves  to  me  for  the  embassy;  they 
were  accepted,  and  adopted  as  my  children,  and  I  was  installed  their  father. 
Their  example  animated  the  others,  and  it  would  have  been  no  difficult 
matter  to  have  taken  a  company;  two  howeverwere  sufficient.  I  determined 
that  it  should  be  my  care  never  to  make  them  regret  the  noble  confidence 
placed  in  me,  for  I  would  have  protected  their  lives  with  my  own.  The 
Beau  is  brother  to  the  Flat-mouth.  I  gave  my  new  soldiers  a  dance 
and  a  dram;  they  attempted  to  get  more  liquor,  but  a  firm  and  peremptory 
denial  convinced  them  I  was  not  to  be  trifled  with. 

Monday,  1 7th  February. — The  chief  of  the  land  brought  in  his  flag, 
and  delivered  it  up.  I  now  made  arrangements  to  march  my  party  the  next 
day.     Instructed  the  Sweet  how  to  send  the  parole  to  the  Indians  of  Red 


98  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

river,  &c.  Put  my  men  through  the  manual,  and  fired  three  blank  rounds, 
all  of  which  not  a  little  astonished  the  Indians.  I  was  obliged  to  give  my 
two  new  soldiers  each  a  blanket,  a  pair  of  leggings,  scissors,  and  a  look- 
ing-glass. 

Tuesday,  i8th  February. —  We  began  our  march  for  Red  Cedar  lake 
about  eleven  o'clock,  with  a  guide  provided  by  Mr  M'Gillis  ;  we  were  all 
equipped  with  snow-shoes,  and  marched  off  amidst  the  acclamations  and 
shouts  of  the  Indians,  who  had  remained  to  see  us  take  our  departure. 
Mr.  Anderson  promised  to  follow  with  letters;  he  arrived  about  twelve 
o'clock  and  remained  all  night.  He  concluded  to  go  down  with  me,  to  see 
Mr.  Dickson. 

Wednesday,  19th  February. — Bradley,  Mr.  Le  Rone,  the  two  young 
Indians  and  myself,  left  Mr.  M'Gillis  at  ten  o'clock,  crossed  Leech  lake  in 
a  south-east  direction,  twenty-four  miles.  Mr.  M'Gillis's  hospitality  de- 
serves to  be  particularly  noticed  :  he  presented  me  with  his  dogs  and  cari- 
ole,  valued  in  this  country  at  two  hundred  dollars.  One  of  the  dogs  broke 
out  of  his  harness,  and  we  were  not  able  to  catch  him  again ;  the  other 
poor  fellow  was  obliged  to  draw  the  whole  load,  at  least  a  hundred  and 
fifty  pounds :  this  day's  march  was  from  lake  to  lake. 

Thursday,  20th  February. — I  allowed  my  men  to  march  at  least  three 
hours  before  me,  notwithstanding  which,  as  it  was  cold  and  the  road  good, 
my  sledge  dog  brought  me  a-head  of  all  by  one  o'clock.  Halted  for  an 
encampment  at  half  past  two  o'clock:  our  courses  this  day  were  first  south- 
east six  miles,  then  south  eighteen  miles ;  almost  all  the  day  over  lakes, 
some  of  which  were  six  miles  across.  Encamped  at  the  bank  of  Sandy 
lake  ;  the  Indians  were  out  hunting. 

Friday,  21st  February. — Traveled  this  day  generally  south,  passed 
but  two  lakes ;  Sandy  lake,  which  is  of  an  oblong  form,  north  and  south 
four  miles,  and  one  other  small  one.  The  Indians,  at  the  instigation  of 
Mr.  Le  Rone,  applied  for  him  to  accompany  us ;  I  consented  that  he 
should  go  as  far  as  Red  Cedar  lake.  I  then  wrote  a  note  to  Mr.  M'Gillis 
upon  the  occasion  :  after  Reale  had  departed  with  it,  Le  Rone  disclosed 
to  me  that  it  was  his  wish  to  desert  the  North- Western  Company  entirely, 
and  to  accompany  me.  To  have  countenanced  for  a  moment  any  thing 
of  this  kind,  would  I  conceived  have  been  inconsistent  with  every  principle 
of  honour ;  I  therefore  obliged  him  to  return  immediately.  We  then  had  na 


OF  THE   MISSISSIPPI.  99 

guide,  our  Indians  not  knowing  the  road  :  our  course  lay  through  woods 
and  bad  brush  fifteen  miles. 

Saturday,  2 2d  February. — Our  course  a  little  to  the  south  of  east, 
through  woods  not  very  thick  :  arrived  at  White-fish  lake  at  eleven  o'clock, 
and  took  an  observation;  my  party  crossed  the  lake,  "and  encamped 
between  the  two  lakes  :  this  may  be  called.the  source  of  the  Pine  river.  At 
this  place  has  been  one  of  the  North-West  Company's  establishments,  at 
the  north-east  side.  It  was  a  square  stockade  of  about  fifty  feet,  but  at 
this  time  nearly  all  consumed  by  fire.  There  was  one  standing  over  the 
point  on  the  eastern  side. 

Sunday,  2 -^A  February. —  My  two  Indians,  Boley,  and  myself,  with 
my  sledge  and  dog,  left  the  party,  under  an  idea  that  we  should  make 
Red  Cedar  lake.  We  marched  hard  all  day,  without  arriving  at  the 
Mississippi.  Our  course  was  nearly  due  east  until  near  night,  when  we 
changed  more  south.  Took  no  provision  nor  bedding:  my  Indians  killed 
fifteen  partridges,  some  nearly  black,  with  a  red  mark  over  their  eyes, 
called  the  Savannah  partridge.  We  were  overtaken  about  noon  by  two 
of  Mr.  Anderson's  men,  Mr.  Anderson  himself  not  being  able  to  come. 
Distance  advanced,  thirty  miles. 

Monday,  24th  February. — We  started  early,  and  after  passing  over 
one  of  the  worst  roads  in  the  world,  found  ourselves  on  a  lake  about  three 
o'clock,  took  its  outlet  and  struck  the  Mississippi  about  one  mile  below 
the  canoes  mentioned  on  the  first  of  January,  by  which  I  knew  where  we 
were.  Ascended  the  Mississippi  about  four  miles,  and  encamped  on  the 
western  side:  our  general  course  this  day  was  nearly  south,  when  it  ought 
to  have  been  south-east.  My  young  warriors  were  still  in  good  heart, 
singing  and  shewing  every  wish  to  keep  me  cheerful.  The  pressure  of 
my  racket-strings  brought  the  blood  through  my  socks  and  mockinsons, 
from  which  the  pain  I  marched  in  may  be  imagined. 

Tuesday,  25th  February. — We  marched  and  arrived  at  the  Red  Cedar 
lake  before  noon:  found  Mr.  Grant  and  De  Breche,  (chief  of  Sandy  lake) 
at  the  house.  This  gave  me  much  pleasure,  for  I  conceive  Mr.  Grant  to 
be  a  gentleman  of  as  much  candour  as  any  with  whom  I  had  made  an 
acquaintance  in  this  quarter;  and  the  chief  (De  Breche,)  is  reputed  to  be 
a  man  of  better  information  than  any  of  the  Sauteurs. 


loo  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

Wednesday,  26th  February. —  Sent  one  of  Mr.  Grant's  men  down, 
with  a  bag  of  rice  to  meet  my  people  ;  he  found  them  encamped  on  the 
Mississippi.  Wrote  a  letter  to  Mr.  Dickson  on  the  subject  of  the  Fols 
Avoins,  also  some  orders  to  my  sergeant.  This  evening  had  a  long  con- 
versation with  De  Breche;  he  informed  me  that  a  string  of  wampum  had 
been  sent  among  the  Chippeways,  he  thought  by  the  British  commanding 
officer  at  St.  Joseph.      He  appeared  to  be  a  very  intelligent  man. 

Thursday,  27th  February. — The  chief  called  the  White-fisher  and 
seven  Indians,  arrived  at  the  house;  my  men  also  arrived  at  twelve 
o'clock. 

Friday,  28th  February. —  We  left  Red  Cedar  lake  about  eleven 
o'clock,  and  went  to  where  the  canoes  before-mentioned  were  seen.  My 
young  Indians  remained  behind  under  the  pretence  of  waiting  for  the 
chief  De  Breche,  who  returned  to  Sandy  lake  for  his  flag  and  medals,  and 
was  to  render  himself  at  my  fort  with  Mr.  Grant,  about  the  fifteenth  of 
the  following  month. 

Saturday,  ist  March. —  Departed  early;  passed  our  encampment  of 
the  31st  of  December;  at  nine  o'clock  A.  M.,  passed  Pine  river  at  twelve 
o'clock,  our  encampment  of  the  30th  December,  at  three  o'clock  and  our 
encampment  of  the  2gth  November,  just  before  we  came  to  our  present, 
which  we  made  on  the  point  of  the  Pine  ridge,  below.  Distance  advanced, 
forty-three  miles. 

Sunday,  2d  March. —  Passed  our  encampment  of  the  2Sth  of  Decem- 
ber, at  ten  o'clock,  A.  M.;  that  of  the  27th  of  December,  at  one  o'clock, 
P.  M.  and  encamped  at  that  of  the  25th  December.  Found  wood  nearly 
sufficient  for  our  use.  This  morning  despatched  Bradley  to  the  last  place 
at  which  we  had  buried  a  barrel  of  flour,  to  thaw  the  ground  and  hunt. 
This  day  a  party  of  Indians  struck  the  river  behind  Bradley,  and  before 
us,  but  left  it  ten  miles  above  the  Raven  river. 

Monday,  3d  March. —  Marched  early;  passed  our  Christmas  encamp- 
ment at  sunrise.  I  was  a-head  of  my  party  in  my  cariole.  Soon  after- 
wards I  observed  a  smoke  on  the  western  shore ;  I  hallooed,  and  some 
Indians  appeared  upon  the  bank.  I  waited  until  my  interpreter  came  up, 
when  we  went  to  the  camp:  they  proved  to  be  a  party  of  Chippeways, 
who  had  left  the  encampment  the  same  day  we  had:  they  presented  me 
with  some  roast  meat,  which  I  gave  my  sledge-dogs ;  they  then   left  their 


OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.  loi 

camp,  and  accompanied  us  down  the  river.  We  passed  our  encampment 
of  the  24th  December,  at  nine  o'clock,  that  of  the  23d  at  ten  o'clock,  and 
of  the  2 2d  at  eleven  o'clock;  here  the  Indians  crossed  on  the  western 
shore.  We  arrived  at  the  encampment  of  the  21st  December,  where  we 
had  a  barrel  of  flour,  at  twelve  o'clock:  I  here  found  Corporal  Meek,  and 
another  man  from  the  fort,  from  whom  I  heard  that  the  men  were  all  well. 
They  confirmed  the  account  of  a  Sioux  having  fired  at  a  sentinel  and  run 
off,  but  had  promised  to  deliver  himself  up  in  the  spring.  The  corporal 
informed  me,  that  the  sergeant  had  used  all  the  fine  hams  and  saddles  of 
venison,  which  I  had  preserved  to  present  to  the  commander  in  chief  and 
other  friends  ;  that  he  had  made  away  with  all  the  whiskey,  including  a 
keg  I  had  designed  for  my  own  use,  having  publicly  sold  it  to  the  men, 
together  with  a  barrel  of  pork  ;  that  he  had  broken  open  my  trunk,  and 
sold  some  articles  out  of  it ;  traded  with  the  Indians,  given  them  liquor, 
&c.,  and  this  too,  contrary  to  my  most  pointed  and  particular  directions. 
Thus,  after  I  had  used,  in  going  up  the  river  with  my  party,  the  strictest 
economy,  living  upon  two  pounds  of  frozen  venison  a  day,  in  order  that 
we  might  have  provision  to  carry  us  down  in  the  spring;  this  fellow  had 
been  squandering  away  the  flour,  pork,  and  liquor,  during  the  winter, 
while  we  were  starvingf  with  hunger  and  cold.  I  had  saved  all  our  corn, 
bacon,  and  the  meat  of  six  deer,  and  left  them  at  Sandy  lake,  with  some 
tents,  my  mess-boxes,  salt,  tobacco,  &c.,  all  of  which  we  were  obliged  to 
sacrifice,  by  not  returning  the  same  route  we  had  ascended  ;  and  we  had 
consoled  ourselves  under  this  loss,  by  the  flattering  idea,  that  we  should 
find  at  our  little  fort,  a  handsome  stock  preserved:  how  mortifying  the 
disappointment!  We  raised  our  barrel  of  flour,  and  came  down  to  the 
mouth  of  a  little  riv.er  on  the  east,  which  we  had  passed  on  the  21st 
December.     The  ice  was  covered  with  water. 

Tuesday,  4th  March. — Proceeded  early;  passed  our  encampment  of  the 
20th  December,  at  sunrise,  arrived  at  that  of  the  19th  at  nine  o'clock; 
here  we  had  buried  two  barrels :  made  a  large  fire  to  thaw  the  ground. 
Went  on  the  prairie  and  found  Sparks,  one  of  my  hunters,  and  brought 
him  to  the  river  at  the  Pine  camp ;  passed  on  opposite  to  our  encampment 
of  the  13th  December,  and  encamped  where  Sparks  and  some  men  had  an 
old  hunting  camp,  and  where  the  Fresaie  (a  Chippeway  chief)  had 
surrounded  them. 


I02  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

Wednesday,  5th  March. — Passed  all  the  encampments  between  Pine 
creek  and  the  fort,  at  which  we  arrived  about  ten  o'clock  :  I  sent  a  man 
on  a-head,  to  prevent  the  salute  I  had  before  ordered  by  letter  ;  this  I  had 
done  under  the  idea  that  the  Sioux  chiefs  would  accompany  me.  I  found 
all  well ;  confined  my  sergeant :  about  one  o'clock  Mr.  Dickson  arrived, 
with  the  Killeur  Rouge,  his  son,  and  two  other  Sioux  men.  with  two 
women,  who  had  come  up  to  be  introduced  to  the  Sauteurs,  whom  they 
expected  to  be  with  me. 

Thursday,  6th  March. — Thomas,  the  Fols  Avoins'  first  chief,  arrived 
with  ten  others  of  his  nation;  I  made  a  serious  and  authoritative  representa- 
tion to  him  of  my  opinion  of  the  conduct  of  the  Shawonoes,  another  chief 
of  his  nation,  who  had  behaved  ill.  I  had  also  a  conference  with  the 
Killeur  Rouge  and  his  people.  At  night,  wrote  to  Messrs.  Grant,  M'Gillis 
and  Anderson. 

Friday,  7th  March. — Held  conversations  with  the  Indians.  Thomas 
the  Fols  Avoin  chief  assured  me,  that  he  would  interest  himself  in  obliorinof 
the  Puants  to  deliver  up  the  men  who  had  recently  committed  murders  on 
the  Ouisconsin  and  Rock  rivers;  and  if  necessary  would  make  it  a  national 
quarrel  on  the  side  of  the  Americans.  This  Thomas  is  a  fine  fellow,  of 
a  very  masculine  figure,  noble  and  animated  delivery,  and  appears  to  be 
very  much  attached  to  the  Americans.  The  Sioux  informed  me  that 
they  would  wait  until  I  had  determined  my  affairs  in  this  country,  and  then 
bear  my  words  to  the  River  St.  Peter's. 

Saturday,  8th  March. — The  Fols  Avoin  chief  presented  me  with  his 
pipe,  to  give  to  the  Sauteurs  on  their  arrival,  with  assurances  of  their 
safety  on  their  voyage,  and  his  wish  for  them  to  descend  the  river.  The 
son  of  the  Killeur  Rouge  presented  me  with  his  pipe,  to  give  to  the  Sauteur 
Indians,  on  their  arrival ;  to  make  them  smoke,  and  assure  them  of  their 
friendly  disposition,  and  that  he  would  wait  to  see  them  at  Mr.  Dickson's. 
Thomas  made  a  formal  complaint  against  a  Frenchman,  by  name  Greignor, 
who  resides  at  Green  Bay;  who  he  said  abused  the  Indians,  and  beat  them 
without  provocation  :  I  promised  to  write  to  the  commanding  officer  or 
Indian  agent  at  Micliillimackinac,  upon  the  subject.  The  Indians,  with 
Mr.  Dickson,  all  took  their  departure.  Hitched  my  dogs  in  the  sledge, 
who  drew  one  of  the  Indian  women  down  the  ice  to  the  no  little  amuse- 
ment of  the  others.  Went  down  the  river  in  order  to  cut  a  mast ;  felled 
a  pine  mast  thirty-five  feet  long,  for  my  large  boat  at  the  prairie. 


OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.  103 

ft 

This  day  my  little  boy  broke  the  cock  of  my  gun  :  a  few  trifling  mis- 
fortunes could  have  happened  which  I  should  have  regretted  more,  as  the 
wild  fowl  just  began  to  return  on  the  approach  of  spring. 

Sunday,  9th  March. — I  examined  into  the  conduct  of  my  sergeant, 
and  found  that  he  was  guilty  of  the  offences  charged  to  him,  and  punished 
him  by  reduction.  Visited  the  Fols  Avoins  lodges,  and  received  a  present 
of  some  tallow.  One  of  my  men  arrived  from  the  hunting  camp  with  two 
deer. 

Monday,  loth  March. — Was  visited  by  the  Fols  Avoin  chief  and  several 
others  of  the  nation.  This  chief  was  an  extraordinary  hunter  ;  to  instance 
his  power,  he  had  killed  forty  elk  and  a  bear  in  one  day,  chasing  the  former 
from  dawn  to  eve.  We  were  all  busied  in  preparing  oars,  guns,  masts, 
&c.,  against  the  breaking  up  of  the  ice  which  was  opening  fast. 

Tuesday,  nth  March. — In  a  long  conversation  with  Reynard,  he  pro- 
fessed not  to  believe  in  an  hereafter  ;  but  he  believed  that  the  world  would 
all  be  drowned  by  water,  at  some  future  period;  he  asked  how  it  was  to  be 
re-peopled?  In  justice  to  his  nation,  however,  I  must  observe,  that  his 
opinion  was  singular. 

Wednesday,  12th  March. — Continued  our  preparations;  had  a  fine 
chase  with  deer  on  the  ice ;  killed  one.  Since  our  return  I  had  received 
eight  deer  from  our  camp. 

Thursday,  13th  March. — Received  two  deer  from  my  hunting  camp. 
Went  out  with  my  gun  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river;  ascended 
the  mountain  which  borders  the  prairie,  and  on  the  point  of  it  found 
a  stone,  on  which  some  Indians  had  sharpened  their  knives,  and  a  war 
club  half  finished.  From  this  spot  you  may  extend  the  eye  over  vast 
prairies,  with  scarcely  any  interruption  but  clumps  of  trees  which  at  a 
distance  appeared  like  mountains.  From  two  or  three  of  which,  the 
smoke  rising  in  the  air  denoted  the  habitation  of  the  wandering  savage, 
and  too  often  marked  them  out  as  victims  to  their  enemies.  From  the 
cruelty  of  these  I  have  had  the  pleasure,  in  the  course  of  the  winter, 
and  through  a  wilderness  of  fifteen  hundred  miles  extent,  to  preserve 
them,  as  peace  has  reigned  through  my  mediation,  from  the  Prairie  des 
Chiens  to  the  lower  Red  river.  If  a  subaltern,  with  twenty  men,  at  so 
great  a  distance  from  the  seat  of  government,  could  effect  so  impor- 
tant a  change  in  the   minds   of   these  savages,  what  might  not  a  great 


I04  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

and  independent  power  effect,  if,  instead  of  blowing  up  the  flames  of 
discord,  it  exerted  its  influence  in  the  sacred  cause  of  peace  ? 

When  I  returned  to  the  fort,  I  found  the  Pols  Avoin  chief,  who 
intended  to  remain  all  night.  He  told  me,  that  near  the  conclusion 
of  the  revolutionary  war,  his  nation  began  to  look  upon  him  as  a  war- 
rior ;  that  they  received  a  parole  from  Michillimackinac,  on  which  he 
was  despatched  with  forty  warriors ;  that  on  his  arrival  he  was  requested 
to  head  them  against  the  Americans.  To  which  he  replied,  "  We  have 
considered  you  and  the  Americans  as  one  people  ;  you  are  now  at  war  ; 
how  are  we  to  decide  who  has  justice  on  their  side?  Besides,  you  white 
people  are  like  the  leaves  on  the  trees  for  numbers.  Should  I  march  with 
my  forty  warriors  to  the  field  of  battle,  they  with  their  chief  would  be 
unnoticed  in  the  multitude,  and  would  be  swallowed  up  as  the  big  waters 
embosom  the  small  rivulets  which  discharge  themselves  into  them.  No,  I 
will  return  to  my  nation,  where  my  countrymen  may  be  of  service  against 
our  red  enemies,  and  their  actions  be  renowned  in  the  dance  of  our 
nation." 

Friday,  14th  March. — Took  the  latitude  by  an  artificial  horizon,  and 
measured  the  river:  received  one  deer  and  a  half  from  my  hunting  camp. 
The  ice  thinner. 

Saturday,  15th  March. — This  was  the  day  fixed  upon  by  Mr.  Grant 
and  the  Chippeway  warriors  for  their  arrival  at  my  fort,  and  I  was  all  day 
anxiously  expecting  them;  for  I  knew,  should  they  not  accompany  me 
down,  the  peace,  partially  effected  between  them  and  the  Sioux,  would 
not  be  on  a  permanent  footing:  from  this  I  take  them  to  be  neither  so 
brave  nor  so  generous  as  the  Sioux,  who,  in  all  their  transactions,  appear 
to  be  candid  and  brave,  whereas  the  Chippeways  are  suspicious,  conse- 
quently treacherous,  and  of  course  cowards. 

Sunday,  i6th  March. — Received  three  deer  from  our  hunting  camp; 
examined  trees  for  canoes. 

Monday,  1 7th  March. — Left  the  fort  with  my  interpreter,  and  Roy,  in 
order  to  visit  the  Pols  Avoin  chief,  who  was  encamped  with  six  lodges  of 
his  nation,  about  twenty  miles  below  us,  on  a  little  river  which  empties 
into  the  Mississippi  on  the  western  side,  a  little  above  Clear  river.  On 
our  way  down,  killed  one  goose,  wounded  another,  and  a  deer  that  the 
dogs  had  driven  into  an  air  hole;  hung  our  game  on  the  trees:  arrived  at 


•     OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.  105 

the  creek;  took  out  on  it;  ascended  three  or  four  miles  on  the  bank,  and 
descended  on  the  other:  killed  another  goose;  struck  the  Mississippi  below: 
encamped  at  our  encampment  of  the  —  of  October,  when  we  ascended 
the  river;  ate  our  goose  for  supper.  It  snowed  all  day,  and  at  night  a  very 
severe  storm  arose.  It  may  be  imagined  that  we  spent  a  very  disagreeable 
night,  without  shelter,  and  with  but  one  blanket  each. 

Tuesday,  i8th  March. — We  marched,  determined  to  find  the  lodges. 
Met  an  Indian,  whose  track  we  pursued  through  almost  impenetrable 
woods,  for  about  two  miles  and  a  half  to  the  camp.  Here  there  was  one 
of  the  finest  sugar  camps  I  almost  ever  saw;  the  whole  of  the  timber  being 
sugar  maples.  We  were  conducted  to  the  chief's  lodge,  who  received  us 
in  the  patriarchal  style.  He  pulled  off  my  leggings  and  mockinsons,  put 
me  in  the  best  place  in  his  lodge,  and  offered  me  dry  clothes.  He  then 
presented  us  with  syrups  of  the  maple  to  drink,  and  asked  whether  I  pre- 
ferred eating  beaver,  swan,  elk,  or  deer?  Upon  my  giving  the  preference  to 
the  first,  a  large  kettle  was  filled  with  it  by  his  wife,  of  which  soup  was 
made.  This  being  thickened  with  flour,  we  had  what  I  then  thought  a 
delicious  repast.  After  we  had  refreshed  ourselves,  he  asked  whether  we 
would  visit  his  people  at  the  other  lodges?  Having  complied,  we  were  pre- 
sented in  each  with  something  to  eat;  by  some  with  a  bowl  of  sugar,  by 
others  beavers'  tails,  and  other  esteemed  delicacies.  After  making  this 
tour,  we  returned  to  the  chief's  lodge,  and  found  a  berth  provided  for  each 
of  us,  of  good  soft  bear  skins  nicely  spread,  and  on  mine  there  was  a  large 
feather  pillow.  I  must  not  here  omit  to  mention  an  anecdote,  which 
serves  to  characterize  more  particularly  the  manners  of  these  people.  This, 
in  the  eyes  of  the  contracted  moralist,  would  deform  my  hospitable  host 
into  a  monster  of  libertinism;  but  by  a  liberal  mind  would  be  considered 
as  arising  from  the  hearty  generosity  of  the  wild  savage.  In  the  course 
of  the  day,  observing  a  ring  on  one  of  my  fingers,  he  enquired  if  it  was 
gold?  he  was  told  it  was  the  gift  of  one,  with  whom  I  should  be  happy  to 
be  at  that  time.  He  seemed  to  think  seriously,  and  at  night  told  my 
interpreter,  "  that  perhaps  his  father  (as  they  called  me)  felt  much  grieved 
for  the  want  of  a  woman;  if  so,  he  could  furnish  him  with  one."  He  was 
answered,  that  with  us  each  man  had  but  one  wife,  and  that  I  considered 
it  strictly  my  duty  to  remain  faithful  to  her.  This  he  thought  strange  (he 
himself  having  three)  and  replied,  "that  he  knew  some  Americans  at  his 


io6  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

nation  who  had  half  a  dozen  wives  during  the  winter."  The  interpreter 
observed,  that  they  were  men  without  character;  but  that  all  of  our  great 
men  had  each  but  one  wife.  The  chief  acquiesced,  but  said  he  liked 
better  to  have  as  many  as  he  pleased.  This  conversation  was  without  any 
appeal  to  me,  as  the  interpreter  knew  my  mind,  and  answered  immediately; 
it  did  not  therefore  appear  as  a  refusal  of  the  chief's  offer. 

Wednesday,  19th  March. — This  morning  purchased  two  baskets  of 
sugar,  for  the  amount  of  which  I  gave  orders  on  Mr.  Dickson.  After  feast- 
ing upon  a  swan,  took  our  leave  for  camp:  it  had  snowed  all  night,  and  still 
continued  snowing.  Finding  my  two  companions  unable  to  keep  up,  I 
pushed  on  and  arrived  at  the  river.  When  I  reached  the  place  where  I 
had  hung  up  my  first  goose,  I  found  that  the  ravens  and  eagles  had  not 
left  a  feather,  and  there  was  at  the  time  feasting  upon  the  deer,  a  band  suf- 
ficient to  have  carried  it  away;  they  had  picked  its  bones  nearly  clean; 
what  remained  I  gave  to  my  dogs.  I  next  stopped  at  the  place  where 
I  expected  to  find  the  last  goose,  but  could  see  nothing  of  it;  at  length  I 
found  it  hidden  under  the  grass  and  snow,  where  some  animal  had  con- 
cealed it,  after  eating  off  its  head  and  neck.  I  carried  it  to  the  fort,  where 
I  arrived  about  an  hour  before  sunset.  I  despatched  immediately  two 
men  with  rackets  to  meet  the  interpreter  and  Le  Roy.  They  arrived 
about  two  hours  after  dark;  some  men  also  arrived  at  the  hunting  camp 
with  the  deer.  The  snow  ceased  falling  about  one  hour  after  dark:  it  was 
the  deepest  that  had  fallen  so  low  down  the  river  this  winter,  being  nearly 
two  feet  thick. 

Thursday,  20th  March. — Despatched  nine  men  to  my  hunting  camp, 
from  whence  I  received  two  deer.  Cloudy  almost  all  day,  but  the  water 
rose  fast  over  the  ice. 

Friday,  21st  March. — Received  a  visit  from  the  Pols  Avoin  chief, 
called  the  Shawonoes,  and  six  young  men.  I  informed  him  without 
reserve,  the  news  I  had  heard  of  him  at  Red  Cedar  lake,  and  of  the  letter 
I  had  written  to  Mr.  Dickson.  He  denied  the  accusation  in  toto,  and  on 
the  contrary  said,  that  he  presented  his  flag  and  two  medals  to  the  Chip- 
peways,  as  an  inducement  for  them  to  descend  in  the  spring,  and  gave 
them  all  the  encouragement  in  his  power.  His  party  was  much  astonished 
at  the  language  I  held  with  him.  But  from  his  firm  protestations,  we 
finally  parted  friends.     He  informed  me  that  a  camp  of  Sauteurs  were  on 


OF   THE  MISSISSIPPI.  107 

the  river,  waiting  for  the  chiefs  to  come  down,  from  which  it  appears  they 
were  still  expected.  At  night,  after  the  others  had  gone,  Thomas  arrived 
and  staid  all  night.  We  agreed  upon  a  hunting  party  for  the  next  day,  and 
also  promised  to  pay  the  old  Shawonoes  a  visit.  He  informed  me,  that 
he  had  set  out  the  other  day  to  follow  me,  but  finding  the  storm  so  very 
bad,  had  returned  to  his  wigwam.  The  thermometer  was  lower  this  day 
than  it  had  been  at  any  time  here,  previously  to  my  commencing  my 
voyage 

Sattirday,  2 2d  March. — Ten  of  my  men  arrived  from  my  hunting 
camp,  with  four  deer  and  a  half.  Thomas  departed :  sent  a  man  with  him 
to  his  traps,  from  which  he  sent  me  two  beavers. 

Sunday,  23d  March. — Agreeably  to  my  promise,  after  breakfast  I 
departed  with  Miller  and  my  interpreter,  to  pay  a  visit  to  the  old  chief 
Shawonoes.  We  arrived  at  his  camp  in  about  two  hours.  On  our  way 
we  met  the  Fols  Avoin,  called  the  Chein  Blanc,  who  had  visited  my  post, 
previously  to  my  starting  up  the  river,  at  whose  house  we  stopped  when  pass- 
ing. We  were  received  by  the  old  Shawonoes  at  his  lodge,  with  the  usual 
Indian  hospitality,  but  very  different  from  the  polite  reception  given  us  by 
Thomas.  Charlevoix  and  others  have  all  borne  testimony  to  the  personal 
beauty  of  this  nation.  From  my  own  observation,  I  had  sufficient  reason 
to  confirm  their  information  as  it  respected  the  males;  for  they  were  all 
straight  and  well  made,  about  the  middle  size;  their  complexions  generally 
fair  for  savages,  their  teeth  good,  their  eyes  large,  and  rather  languishing: 
they  have  a  mild  but  independent  expression  of  countenance,  that  charms  at 
first  sight :  in  short,  they  would  be  considered  anywhere  as  handsome  men. 
But  their  account  of  the  women,  I  never  before  believed  to  be  correct.  In 
this  lodge  there  were  five  very  handsome  females  when  we  arrived;  and 
about  sundown,  a  pair  arrived,  whom  my  interpreter  observed  were  the 
handsomest  couple  he  had  ever  seen,  and  in  truth  they  were;  the  man  being 
about  five  feet  eleven  inches,  and  possessing  in  an  eminent  manner  all  the 
beauties  of  countenance  which  distinguish  his  nation.  His  companion 
was  twenty-two  years  old,  having  dark  brown  eyes,  jet  hair,  and  an  ele- 
gantly proportioned  neck,  her  figure  by  no  means  inclining  to  corpulency, 
as  they  generally  are  after  marriage.  The  man  appeared  to  attach  him- 
self particularly  to  me,  and  informed  me  his  wife  was  the  daughter  of  an 
American,  who  passing  through    their  nation  about  twenty-three  years 


io8  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

before,  remained  a  week  or  two  possessed  of  her  mother,  and  that  she  was 
the  fruit  of  this  amour,  but  his  name  they  were  unacquainted  with.  I  had 
brought  six  biscuits  with  me,  which  I  presented  to  her  on  the  score  of  her 
being  my  countrywoman,  which  raised  a  loud  laugh;  and  she  was  called  the 
Bostonian  during  the  rest  of  my  stay.  I  found  them  generally  extremely 
hard  to  deal  with;  my  provision  being  only  a  little  venison.  I  wished  to 
procure  some  bear's  oil ;  for  a  few  gallons  of  which  I  was  obliged  to  pay  a 
dollar  per  gallon,  and  then  they  wanted  to  mix  tallow  with  it.  They  also 
demanded  ten  dollars  for  a  bear  skin  (the  most  beautiful,  I  confess,  I  ever 
saw),  which  I  wanted  to  mount  a  saddle.  Indeed  I  was  informed  that 
traders  in  this  country  sometimes  give  as  much  as  sixteen  dollars  for  rare 
skins,  for  they  are  eminently  superior  to  any  thing  of  the  kind  on  the 
lower  Mississippi,  and  sell  in  Europe  for  double  the  price. 

In  the  evening  we  were  entertained  with  the  calumet  and  dog  dance; 
also  another  dance,  in  which  some  of  the  men  struck  a  post  and  told  some 
of  their  war  exploits;  but  as  they  spoke  in  Menomene,  my  interpreter  could 
not  explain  it.  After  the  dance  we  had  the  feast  of  the  dead  (as  it  is 
called)  at  which,  every  two  or  three  were  served  with  a  pan  or  vessel  full 
of  meat,  and  when  all  were  ready  there  was  a  prayer,  after  which  the  eating 
commenced;  when  it  was  expected  we  would  eat  up  our  portion  entirely, 
being  careful  not  to  drop  a  bone,  but  to  gather  up  all,  and  put  them  in  the 
dish:  we  were  then  treated  with  soup.  After  the  eating  was  finished,  the 
chief  again  gave  an  exhortation,  which  concluded  the  ceremony,  I  am  told 
they  then  gather  up  all  the  fragments,  and  throw  them  into  the  water,  lest 
the  dogs  should  get  them.  Burning  them  is  considered  sacrilegious.  In 
this  lodge  were  collected  at  one  time  forty-one  persons,  great  and  small, 
seventeen  of  whom  were  capable  of  bearing  arms;  besides  dogs  without 
number. 

Monday,  24th  March. — Rose  early,  and  with  my  dog  sledge  arrived 
at  the  fort  before  ten  o'clock.  In  the  afternoon  Mr.  Grant  arrived  with 
De  Breche  and  some  of  his  young  men  :  saluted  him  with  fourteen  rounds. 
I  now  found  that  my  two  young  warriors  of  Leech  lake  had  been  brave 
enough  to  return  to  their  homes.  Mr.  Grant  and  myself  sat  up  late  in 
conversation. 

Tuesday,  25th  March. — Sent  an  Indian  to  Thomas's  lodge,  and  a 
letter  to  Mr.  Dickson.     It  snowed  and  stormed  all  day. 


OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.  109 

Wednesday,  26th  March. — Thomas,  the  Fols  Avoin  chief,  arrived  with 
seven  of  his  men,  and  the  old  Shawonoes  and  six  of  his  party.  I  had  them 
all  to  feed  as  well  as  my  own  men.  At  night  I  gave  them  leave  to  dance 
in  the  garrison,  which  they  did  until  ten  o'clock ;  but  once  or  twice  told 
me,  that  if  I  was  tired  of  them  the  dance  should  cease.  The  old  Shawo- 
noes and  the  White  Dog  of  the  Fols  Avoins  rehearsed  their  exploits, 
which  we  could  not  understand ;  but  De  Breche  arose  and  said  "  I  once 
killed  a  Sioux  and  cut  off  his  head  with  such  a  spear  as  I  now  present  to 
this  Winebago,"  at  the  same  time  presenting  one  to  a  Winebago,  with 
whom  the  Chippeways  were  at  war ;  this  was  considered  by  the  latter  as  a 
great  honour.     My  hunters  went  out,  but  killed  nothing. 

Thursday,  27th  March. — In  the  rnorningthe  Chippeway  chief  made  a 
speech,  and  presented  his  pipe  to  me  to  bear  to  the  Sioux,  on  which  were 
seven  strings  of  Wampum,  as  authority  from  seven  heads  of  the  Chippe- 
ways, either  to  conclude  peace  or  to  make  war:  as  he  had  chosen  the 
former,  he  sent  his  pipe  to  the  Sioux,  and  requested  me  to  inform  them, 
that  he  and  his  people  would  encamp  at  the  mouth  of  the  Raven  river  the 
ensuing  summer,  where  he  would  see  the  United  States  flag  flying,  as  a 
proof  of  his  pacific  disposition.  The  Fols  Avoin  chief  then  spoke  and 
said,  "  His  nation  had  been  rendered  small  by  its  enemies;  only  a  remnant 
was  now  left,  but,  yet  they  could  boast  of  not  being  slaves  ;  for  rather  than 
suffer  their  women  and  children  to  be  taken,  they  themselves  killed  them. 
But  that  their  father  (as  they  called  me)  had  travelled  far,  and  had  taken 
much  pains  to  prevent  the  Sioux  and  Chippeways  from  killing  one  another  ; 
that  he  thought  none  could  be  so  ungenerous  as  to  neglect  listening  to  the 
words  of  their  father :  that  he  would  report  to  the  Sioux  the  pacific  disposi- 
tion of  the  Sauteurs,  and  hoped  the  peace  would  be  firm  and  lastino-."  I 
then  in  a  few  words  informed  De  Breche,  "  That  I  would  report  to  the 
Sioux  all  he  had  said,  and  that  I  should  ever  feel  pleased  and  grateful  that 
the  two  nations  had  laid  aside  the  tomahawk  at  my  request.  That  I 
thanked  the  Fols  Avoin  chief  for  his  good  wishes  and  the  parole  which  he 
had  given  the  Sauteurs."  After  all  this,  each  chief  was  furnished  with  a 
kettle  of  liquor,  to  drink  each  others  health ;  and  De  Breche's  flag  (which 
I  had  presented  to  him)  was  displayed  in  the  fort.  The  Fols  Avoins  then 
departed,  at  which  I  was  by  no  means  displeased;  for  they  had  already 


no  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

consumed  all  the  dry  meat  I  had  laid  aside  for  my  voyage,  and  I  was 
apprehensive  that  my  hunters  would  not  be  able  to  provide  another 
supply. 

Friday,  28th  March. — Late  in  the  afternoon  Mr.  Grant  and  the 
Sauteurs  took  their  departure,  calculating  that  the  Sioux  had  left  the  country. 
Taking  with  me  one  of  my  soldiers,  I  accompanied  them  to  the  lodge  of 
the  Shawonoes,  where  we  stayed  all  night.  The  Pols  Avoins  and 
Sauteurs  had  a  dance,  at  which  I  left  them  and  went  to  sleep.  Feasted  on 
elk,  sugar  and  syrup.  Previously  to  the  Indians'  departure  from  my  post, 
I  demanded  the  chief's  medal  and  flags;  the  former  he  delivered,  but  with 
a  bad  grace,  the  latter  he  said  were  in  the  lands  where  I  left  Lake  de  Sable, 
instructed  I  suppose,  by  the  traders,  and  that  he  could  not  obtain  them. 
It  thundered  and  lightened  this  day. 

Saturday/'K^'Csx  March. — We  all  marched  in  the  morning.  Mr.  Grant 
and  party  for  Sandy  lake,  and  I  for  my  hunting  camp.  I  gave  him  my 
spaniel  dog:  he  joined  me  again  after  we  had  separated  about  five  miles. 
I  arrived  at  my  hunting  camp  about  eight  o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  was 
informed  that  my  hunters  had  gone  to  bring  in  a  deer ;  they  shortly  after 
arrived  with  it,  and  about  eleven  o'clock  we  all  went  out  hunting:  saw  but 
few  deer,  out  of  which  I  had  the  good  fortune  to  kill  two.  On  our  arrival 
at  camp  found  one  of  my  men  at  the  garrison  with  a  letter  from  Mr. 
Dickson.  The  soldier  informed  me  that  one  Sioux  had  arrived  with  Mr. 
Dickson's  men.  Although  much  fatigued,  as^  soon  as  I  had  eaten  some- 
thing, I  took  one  of  my  men  and  departed  for  the  garrison  one  hour  before 
sundown.  The  distance  was  twenty-one  miles,  and  the  ice  very  danger- 
ous, being  rotten,  and  the  water  over  it  nearly  a  foot  deep:  we  had  sticks 
in  our  hands,  and  in  many  places  run  them  through  the  ice:  it  thundered 
and  lightened  with  rain.  The  Sioux,  not  finding  the  Sauteurs,  had  returned 
immediately. 

Sunday,  30th  March.  — Wrote  to  Mr.  Dickson  and  despatched  his 
man.  I  found  myself  very  stiff  from  my  yesterday's  march.  We  now 
caulked  our  boats,  as  the  ice  had  every  appearance  of  breaking  up  in  a 
few  days.  Whilst  thus  on  the  wing  of  eager  expectation,  every  day  seemed 
an  age. 

Monday,  -ijX^X  March. — Finished  caulking  my  boats;  the  difficulty 
with  me  then,  was,  what  I  should  get  to  pitch  the  seams  with.      We  were 


OF  THE    MISSISSIPPI.  in 

all  day  as  anxiously  watching  the  ice,  as  a  lover  would  be  the  arrival  of  the 
priest  who  was  to  unite  him  to  his  beloved.  Sometimes  it  moved  a  little, 
but  soon  closed  :  an  Indian  and  his  woman  crossed  it,  when  the  poles 
which  they  held  in  their  hands  were  forced  through  in  many  places.  The 
provision  to  which  I  was  obliged  to  restrict  myself  and  men,  viz.,  two 
pounds  of  fresh  venison  per  day,  was  scarcely  sufficient  to  keep  us  alive. 
Though  I  had  not  an  extraordinary  appetite,yet  I  was  continually  hungry. 

Wednesday,  2d  April. — Went  out  and  killed  one  deer  and  two  par- 
tridges. The  ice  began  to  move  opposite  the  fort  at  the  foot  of  the 
rapids,  but  continued  dammed  up  below.  Received  six  bears  from  my 
hunting  camp.     Launched  our  canoe  and  brought  her  down. 

Thursday,  3d  April. — Sent  one  man  down  to  examine  the  river, 
another  to  the  camp,  and  took  two  men  myself  over  the  hills  on  the  other 
side  of  the  Mississippi  to  hunt.  In  the  course  of  the  day  I  killed  a  swan 
and  a  goose,  and  we  certainly  should  have  killed  one  or  two  elk,  had  it 
not  been  for  the  sledge-dogs ;  for  we  lay  concealed  on  the  banks  of  Clear 
river,  when  four  of  these  animals  came  and  threw  themselves  into  it  on  the 
opposite  shore,  and  were  swimming  directly  towards  us,  when  our  dogs 
bounced  into  the  water,  and  caused  them  to  turn  back  :  we  then  fired  on 
them,  but  they  carried  off  all  the  lead  we  gave  them,  and  we  could  not 
cross  the  river,  unless  we  rafted  (it  being  bank  full)  which  would  have 
detained  us  too  long  a  time.  In  the  evening  it  became  very  cold,  and  we 
passed  rather  an  uncomfortable  night. 

Friday,  4th  April. — Took  our  course  homewards;  I  killed  one  large 
buck  and  wounded  another.  We  made  a  fire  and  ate  our  breakfast ;  arrived 
at  the  fort  at  two  o'clock,  P.  M.  when  I  was  informed  that  the  river  was 
still  shut  below  at  the  cluster  of  islands.  Received  some  bear  meat,  and 
one  deer  from  the  camp. 

Saturday,  5th  April. — In  the  morning  despatched  two  men  down 
the  river  to  see  if  it  was  open:  my  hunters  arrived  from  the  camps.  Fol- 
lowed my  boats  with  our  canoes,  and  launched  them  ;  they  made  consider- 
able water.  The  young  Shawonoes  arrived  in  my  canoes  from  above,  with 
about  one  thousand  pounds  of  fur,  which  he  deposited  in  the  fort;  then 
returned  and  informed  me  that  the  river  was  still  shut  about  ten  miles 
below. 

Sunday,  6th  April. — Sent  my  perroque  with  Sergeant  Bradley  and 
two  men  to  descend  the  river,  and  see  if  it  was  yet   open  :  they  returned 


112  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

in  the  afternoon,  and  reported  all  clear.  I  had  previously  determined  to 
load  and  embark  the  next  day,  and  hoped  to  find  it  free  by  the  time  I 
arrived. 

The  Shawonoes  arrived  and  encamped  near  the  stockade  ;  he  informed 
me,  that  his  nation  had  determined  to  send  his  son  down  in  his  stead,  as 
he  declined  the  voyage  to  St.  Louis.  All  hearts  and  hands  were  now 
employed  in  preparing  for  our  departure  :  in  the  evening  the  men  cleared 
out  their  room,  and  danced  to  the  violin  and  sang  songs  until  eleven 
o'clock  ;  so  rejoiced  was  every  heart  at  leaving  this  savage  wilderness. 

Monday,  7th  April. — Loaded  our  boats,  and  departed  at  forty  minutes 
past  ten  o'clock  :  at  one  o'clock  arrived  at  Clear  river,  where  we  found  my 
canoe  and  men.  Although  I  had  partly  promised  the  Pols  Avoin  chief  to 
remain  one  night,  yet  time  was  too  precious,  and  we  put  olT;  passed  the 
grand  rapids,  and  arrived  at  Mr.  Dickson's  just  before  sundown  ;  we  were 
saluted  with  three  rounds.  At  night  he  treated  all  my  men  with  a  supper 
and  a  dram.  Mr.  D.,  Mr.  Paulize,  and  myself,  sat  up  until  four  o'clock  in 
the  morning 

Tuesday,  8th  April. —  Were  obliged  to  remain  this  day,  on  account 
of  some  information  to  be  obtained  here.  I  spent  the  day  in  making  a 
rough  chart  of  St.  Peter's,  writing  notes  on  the  Sioux  and  other  nations, 
settling  the  afifairs  of  the  Indian  department  with  Mr.  Dickson,  for  whose 
communications,  and  those  of  Mr.  Paulize,  I  am  infinitely  indebted:  made 
every  necessary  preparation  for  an  early  embarkation. 

Wednesday,  9th  April. —  Rose  early  in  the  morning  and  commenced 
my  arrangements.  Having  observed  two  Indians  drunk  during  the  night, 
and  finding  upon  enquiry,  that  the  liquor  had  been  furnished  them  by  a 
Mr.  Gregnon  or  Mr.  Yennesse,  I  sent  my  interpreter  to  them,  to  request 
they  would  not  sell  any  strong  liquor  to  the  Indians,  upon  which 
Mr.  Yennesse  demanded  the  restrictions  in  writing  which  were  given 
to  him:  on  demanding  his  license  from  him  it  amounted  to  no  more 
than  merely  a  certificate  that  he  had  paid  the  tax  required  by  a  law  of  the 
Indian  territory,  on  all  retailers  of  merchandise;  but  it  was  by  no  means 
an  Indian  license;  however,  I  did  not  think  proper  to  go  into  a  more 
close  investigation.  Last  night  was  so  cold,  that  the  water  was  covered 
with  floating  cakes  of  ice  of  a  strong  consistence. 


OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.  113 

After  receiving  every  mark  of  attention  from  Messrs.  Dickson  and 
Paulize,  I  took  my  departure  at  eight  o'clock.  At  four  P.  M.  arrived  at 
the  house  of  Mr.  Paulize,  twenty-five  leagues  distant,  to  whose  brother  I 
had  a  letter.  I  was  received  with  politeness  by  him  and  a  Mr.  Veau,  who 
had  wintered  along-side  of  him,  on    the   very   island   at   which  we  had 

encamped  on  the  night  of  the of  October,  in  ascending.     Sometime 

after  having  left  this  place,  we  discovered  a  bark  canoe  a-head ;  we  gained  on 
it  for  some  time,  when  it  turned  a  point  about  three  hundred  yards  before 
us ;  and  on  our  turning  it  also,  it  had  entirely  disappeared.  This  excited 
my  curiosity.  I  stood  up  in  the  barge,  and  at  last  discovered  it  turned  up 
in  the  grass  of  the  prairie ;  but  after  we  had  passed  a  good  gun  shot, 
three  savages  made  their  appearance  from  under  it,  launched  it  in  the 
river  and  followed,  not  knowing  of  my  other  boats  which  had  just  turned 
the  point  immediately  upon  them.  They  then  came  on,  and  upon  my 
stopping  for  the  night  at  a  vacant  trading  house,  stopped  there  also,  and 
addressed  me,  "  Saggo  Commandant,"  or  "your  servant  captain."  I 
directed  my  interpreter  to  inquire  their  motives  for  concealing  themselves. 
They  replied,  that  their  canoe  leaked,  and  that  they  had  turned  her  up  to 
discharge  the  water.  This  I  did  not  believe,  and  as  their  conduct  was 
equivocal,  I  received  them  rather  sternly ;  I  gave  them,  however,  a  dram 
and  a  piece  of  bread ;  they  then  re-embarked  and  continued  down  the 
river.  Their  conduct  brought  to  mind  the  visit  of  the  Fils  de  Penichon 
to  Mr.  Dickson,  during  the  winter;  one  principal  cause  of  which  was, 
that  he  wished  to  inform  me,  that  the  seven  men  whom  I  mentioned  to 
have  met  when  crossing  the  St.  Anthony,  had  since  declared  that  they 
would  kill  him,  for  agreeing  to  the  peace  between  the  Sioux  and  Sauteurs; 
and  for  being  instrumental  in  preventing  them  from  their  revenge  for 
their  relations  killed  by  the  Sauteurs  in  August,  1805;  and  Thpmas,  the 
Fols  Avoin  chief,  for  the  support  he  seemed  disposed  to  give  me.  This 
information  had  not  made  the  impression  it  ought  to  have  done,  coming 
from  so  respectable  a  source  as  the  first  chief  of  the  village  ;  but  the  con- 
duct of  those  fellows  made  me  take  it  into  consideration,  and  I  appeal  to 
God  and  my  country,  whether  self-preservation  would  not  have  justified 
me  in  destroying  them  wherever  I  found  them?  This  my  men  would 
have  done,  if  ordered,  amidst  a  thousand  of  them,  and  I  should  have 
been  supported  by  the  chiefs  of  the  St.   Peter's,  at  the   mouth  of  which 


114  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

were  three  hundred  warriors  awaiting  my  arrival.  I  dreaded  the  conse- 
quences of  meeting  the  rascal  who  had  fired  at  my  sentinel  last  winter, 
for  fear  the  impetuosity  of  my  conduct  might  not  be  approved  of  by  my 
government,  who  did  not  so  intimately  know  the  nature  of  these  savages. 

This  day,  for  the  first  time,  we  saw  the  commencement  of  vegetation, 
yet  the  snow  was  a  foot  deep  in  some  places. 

Thursday,  loth  April. — Sailed  at  half  past  five  o'clock;  about  seven 
passed  Rum  river,  and  at  eight  were  saluted  by  six  or  seven  lodges  of  Pols 
Avoins,  amongst  whom  was  a  clerk  of  Mr.  Dickson's.  These  people  had 
wintered  on  Rum  river,  and  were  waiting  for  their  chiefs  and  traders  to 
descend,  in  order  to  accompany  them  to  the  Prairie  des  Chiens.  Arrived 
at  the  falls  of  St.  Anthony  at  ten  o'clock :  carried  over  all  our  loading  and 
the  canoe  to  the  lower  end  of  the  portage,  and  hauled  our  boats  up  on  the 
bank.  I  pitched  my  tents  at  the  lower  end  of  the  encampment,  where  all 
the  men  lodged  except  the  guard,  whose  quarters  were  above.  The 
appearance  of  the  falls  was  much  more  tremendous  than  when  we 
ascended:  the  increase  of  water  occasioned  the  spray  to  rise  much  higher, 
and  the  mist  appeared  like  clouds.  How  different  my  sensations  now, 
from  what  they  were  when  at  this  place  before !  At  that  time  not  having 
accomplished  more  than  half  my  route,  winter  fast  approaching,  war  exist- 
ing between  the  most  savage  nations  in  the  country  I  had  to  pass,  my  pro- 
visions greatly  diminished,  and  having  but  a  poor  prospect  of  additional 
supplies ;  many  of  my  men  sick,  and  the  others  not  a  little  disheartened, 
and  our  success  in  this  arduous  undertaking  very  doubtful ;  just  upon 
the  borders  of  the  haunts  of  civilized  man  ;  about  to  launch  into  an 
unknown  wilderness,  for  ours  was  the  first  canoe  that  had  ever  crossed 
this  portage ;  were  circumstances  sufficient  to  rob  my  breast  of  content- 
ment and  ease:  but  now  we  have  accomplished  every  wish,  and  peace 
reigns  throughout  this  vast  extent!  We  have  returned  thus  far  on  our 
voyage  without  the  loss  of  a  single  man,  and  have  hopes  of  soon  being 
blessed  with  the  society  of  our  relations  and  friends. 

The  river  was  this  morning  covered  with  ice,  which  continued  floating 
all  day.    '  The  shores  still  barricaded  with  it. 

Friday,  i  ith  April. — Although  it  snowed  very  hard,  we  brought  over 
both  boats,  and  descended  the  river  to  the  island  at  the  entrance  of  the 
St.  Peter's.     I  sent  to  the  chiefs  and  informed  them,  I  had  something  to 


OF  THE   MISSISSIPPI.  115 

communicate  to  them.  The  Fils  de  Penichon  immediately  waited  on  me, 
and  informed  me  that  he  would  provide  a  place  for  the  purpose :  about 
sun-down  I  was  sent  for,  and  introduced  into  the  council-house,  where  I 
found  a  great  many  chiefs  of  the  Sussitongs,  Gens  de  Feuille,  and  the 
Gens  de  Lac.  The  Yanctongs  had  not  yet  come  down:  they  were  all 
waiting  for  my  arrival.  There  were  in  all  about  one  hundred  lodges,  or 
six  hundred  people;  we  were  saluted  on  our  crossing  the  river  with  ball  as 
usual.  The  council-house  was  formed  of  two  large  lodges,  capable  of 
containing  three  hundred  men.  In  the  upper  were  forty  chiefs,  and  as 
many  pipes,  set  against  the  poles,  alongside  of  which  I  had  the  Sauteurs' 
pipe  arranged.  I  then  informed  them,  in  a  short  detail,  of  my  transactions 
with  the  Sauteurs,  but  my  interpreters  were  not  capable  of  making  them- 
selves understood;  I  was  therefore  obliged  to  omit  mentioning  every  partic- 
ular relative  to  the  rascal  who  fired  on  my  sentinel,  and  of  the  other  delin- 
quents who  had  broken  the  Fols  Avoins'  canoes,  and  threatened  my  life: 
the  interpreters  however  informed  them  that  I  wanted  some  of  their 
principal  chiefs  to  go  to  St.  Louis,  and  that  those  who  thought  proper 
might  descend  to  the  prairie,  where  we  would  give  them  more  explicit 
information. 

They  all  smoked  out  of  the  Sauteurs'  pipes,  excepting  three,  who 
were  painted  black,  and  were  some  of  those  who  had  lost  their  relations 
last  winter.  I  invited  the  Fils  de  Penichon,  and  the  son  of  the  Killeur 
Rouge  to  come  over  and  sup  with  me,  when  Mr.  Dickson  and  myself 
endeavoured  to  explain  what  I  intended  to  have  said  to  them,  could  I 
have  made  myself  understood;  that  at  the  prairie  we  would  have  all  things 
explained;  that  I  was  desirous  of  makmg  a  better  report  of  them  than 
Captain  Lewis  could  from  their  treatment  of  him.  The  former  of  these 
savages  was  the  person  who  remained  with  his  men  around  my  post  all 
last  winter,  and  had  treated  my  men  so  well. 

Saturday,  12th  April. — Embarked  early:  although  my  interpreter  had 
been  frequently  up  the  river,  he  could  not  tell  me  where  the  cave,  spoken 
of  by  Carver,  could  be  found;  we  carefully  sought  for  it,  but  in  vain.  At  the 
Indian  village  a  few  miles  above  St.  Peter's,  we  were  about  to  pass  a  few 
lodges,  but  on  receiving  a  very  particular  invitation  to  come  on  shore,  we 
landed,  and  were  received  in  a  lodge  where  they  presented  us  with  sugar, 
and  some  other  articles.  I  gave  the  proprietor  a  dram,  and  was  about  to 
depart,  when  he  demanded  a  kettle  of  liquor:  on  being  refused,  and  after 


ii6  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

I  had  left  the  shore,  he  told  me  that  he  did  not  like  the  arrangements,  and 
that  he  would  go  to  war  this  summer.  I  directed  the  interpreter  to  tell 
him  that  if  I  returned  to  the  St.  Peter's  with  troops,  I  would  settle  that 
affair  with  him.  On  our  arrival  at  the  St.  Croix,  I  found  the  Petit  Cor- 
beau  with  his  people,  and  also  Messrs.  Frazer  and  Wood. 

We  had  a  conference;  when  the  Petit  Corbeau  made  many  apologies 
for  the  misconduct  of  his  people:  he  represented  to  us  the  different  ways 
in  which  his  young  warriors  had  been  inducing  him  to  go  to  war;  that  he 
had  been  much  blamed  for  dismissing  his  party  last  fall,  but  was  deter- 
mined to  adhere  as  far  as  lay  in  his  power  to  our  instructions;  that  he 
thought  it  most  prudent  to  remain  here  and  restrain  the  warriors.  He 
then  presented  me  with  a  beaver  robe  and  a  pipe,  and  his  message  to  the 
General,  that  he  was  determined  to  preserve  peace  and  make  the  road 
clear,  as  a  remembrance  of  his  promised  medal.  I  made  him  a  reply  cal- 
culated to  confirm  him  in  his  good  intentions,  and  assured  him  that  he 
should  not  be  the  less  remembered  by  his  father,  although  not  present. 

I  was  informed  that  notwithstanding  the  instructions  of  license,  and 
my  particular  request,  Mr.  Murdock  Cameron  had  taken  liquor  and  sold 
it  to  the  Indians  on  the  River  St.  Peter's,  and  that  his  partner  below  had 
been  equally  imprudent.  I  pledged  myself  to  prosecute  them  according 
to  law,  for  they  have  been  the  occasion  of  great  confusion,  and  of  much 
injury  to  the  other  traders.  This  day  met  a  canoe  of  Mr.  Dickson's, 
loaded  with  provision,  under  the  charge  of  Mr.  Anderson,  brother  of  the 
Anderson  at  Leech  lake. 

He  politely  offered  me  any  m-ovision  he  had  on  board,  (for  which  Mr. 
Dickson  had  given  me  an  order^  but  not  now  being  in  want,  I  did  not 
accept  of  any.  This  day  for  the  first  time  I  observed  the  trees  beginning 
to  bud,  and  indeed  the  climate  seemed  to  have  changed  very  materially 
since  we  had  passed  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony. 

Sunday,  13th  April. — We  embarked  after  breakfast,  accompanied  by 
Messrs.  Frazer  and  Wood,  wind  strong  a-head;  they  outrowed  us:  theirs 
was  the  first  boat  or  canoe  we  had  met  with  on  the  voyage  able  to  do  this, 
but  then  they  were  doubly  manned  and  light. 

We  arrived  at  the  band  of  the  Aile  Rouge  at  two  o'clock,  when  we 
were  saluted  as  usual:  we  held  a  council  here,  when  he  spoke  with  more 
detestation  of  the  conduct  of  the  rascals,  at  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Peter's, 
than  any  man  I  had  yet  heard.     He  assured  me,  speaking  of  the  fellow 


OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.  117 

who  had  fired  on  my  sentinel,  and  threatened  to  kill  me,  that  if  I 
thought  it  requisite  he  should  be  put  to  death;  but  that  as  there  were 
many  chiefs  above,  with  whom  he  wished  to  speak,  he  hoped  I  would 
remain  one  day,  when  all  the  Sioux  would  be  down,  and  I  might  have  the 
command  of  one  thousand  men  of  them;  that  I  would  probably  think  it 
no  honour,  but  that  the  British  used  to  flatter  them  they  were  proud  of 
having  them  for  soldiers.  I  replied  in  general  terms,  and  assured  him 
that  it  was  not  for  the  misconduct  of  two  or  three  delinqents,  that  I  meant 
to  pass  over  all  the  good  treatment  I  had  received  from  the  Sioux  nation: 
and  added,  that  in  council  I  would  explain  myself:  as  to  the  Indian  who 
fired  at  my  sentinel,  I  stated  that  had  I  been  near,  the  Sioux  nation  would 
never  have  been  troubled  with  him,  for  I  would  have  killed  him  on  the 
spot;  but  that  my  young  men  did  not  do  it,  apprehensive  that  I  might  be 
displeased.  I  then  gave  him  the  news  of  the  Sauteurs,  and  afterwards 
stated,  that  as  to  remaining  one  day,  it  would  be  of  no  service,  that  I  was 
much  pressed  to  arrive  below,  as  my  General  expected  me,  my  duty  called 
me,  and  the  state  of  my  provisions  demanded  the  utmost  expedition;  that 
I  should  be  happy  to  oblige  him,  but  that  my  men  must  eat.  He  replied, 
that  Lake  Pepin  being  yet  shut  with  ice,  if  I  went  on  and  encamped  on  it, 
I  should  not  be  supplied  with  provisions;  that  he  would  send  out  all  his 
young  men  the  next  day,  and  that  if  the  other  bands  did  not  arrive  he 
would  depart  the  day  after  with  me.  In  short,  after  much  conversation,  I 
agreed  to  remain  one  day,  knowing  that  the  lake  was  closed,  and  that  we 
could  proceed  only  nine  miles  if  we  went  on. 

This  appeared  to  give  generaKsatisfaction ;  I  was  invited  to  different 
feasts,  and  entertained  by  one  whose  father  was  created  a  chief  by  the 
Spaniards. 

At  this  feast  I  saw  a  man  (called  by  the  French,  Nez  Corbeau,  and  by 
the  Indians,  the  Wind  that  Walks)  who  was  formerly  the  second  chief  of 
the  Sioux,  but  being  the  cause  of  the  death  of  one  of  the  traders,  seven 
years  since,  he  had  voluntarily  relinquished  the  dignity,  and  frequently 
requested  to  be  given  up  to  the  whites.  He  had  now  determined  to  go 
to  St.  Louis  and  deliver  himself  up,  where  he  said  they  might  put  him  to 
death:  his  long  repentance,  and  the  great  confidence  which  the  nation 
reposed  in  him,  would  probably  operate  to  protect  him  from  the  punish- 
ment which  the  crime  merited;  but  as  it  had  been  committed  long  before 


ii8  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

the  United  States  had  assumed  its  authority  over  the  district,  and  as  no 
law  of  theirs  could  bear  upon  it,  unless  an  ex  post  facto  one  were  passed, 
I  conceive  it  would  not  now  be  noticed:  I  did  not  think  proper  however 
to  inform  him  of  my  opinion.  I  here  received  a  letter  from  Mr.  Rollet, 
partner  of  Mr.  Cameron,  with  a  present  of  some  brandy,  coffee  and 
sugar:  I  hesitated  about  receiving  these  articles  from  the  partner  of  the 
man  I  intended  to  prosecute. 

Their  amount  being  trifling  however,  I  accepted  of  them,  offering 
him  payment.  I  assured  him  that  the  prosecution  arose  from  a  sense  of 
duty,  and  not  from  any  personal  prejudice. 

My  canoe  did  not  come  up  in  consequence  of  the  head  wind:  sent 
out  two  men  in  a  canoe  to  set  fishing  lines ;  the  boat  overset,  and  had  it 
not  been  for  the  timely  assistance  of  the  savages,  who  carried  them  into 
their  lodges,  undressed  them,  and  treated  them  with  the  greatest  human- 
ity and  kindness,  the  men  must  inevitably  have  perished.  At  this  place 
I  was  informed  that  the  Indian  spoken  of  as  having  threatened  my  life 
had  actually  cocked  his  gun  to  shoot  at  me  from  behind  the  hills,  but  was 
prevented  by  the  others. 

Monday,  14th  April. —  Was  invited  to  a  feast  by  the  Nez  Corbeau; 
his  conversation  was  interesting  and  shall  be  detailed  hereafter:  the  other 
Indians  had  not  yet  arrived.  Messrs.  Wood,  Frazer  and  myself,  ascended 
a  high  hill  called  the  Barn,  from  which  we  had  a  view  of  Lake  Pepin,  the 
valley  through  which  the  Mississippi  by  numerous  channels  wound  itself 
as  far  as  the  St.  Croix,  the  Cannon  river,  and  the  lofty  hills  on  each  side. 

Tuesday,  \<^xk\.  April. —  Arose  very  early  and  embarked  about  sun- 
rise, much  to  the  astonishment  of  the  Indians,  who  were  fully  prepared 
for  the  council,  when  they  heard  I  had  put  off.  However  after  some 
conversation  with  Mr.  Frazer,  they  acknowledged  it  was  agreeably  to  what 
I  had  said,  that  I  would  sail  early,  and  that  they  could  not  blame  me.  I 
was  very  positive  in  my  word,  for  I  found  it  by  far  the  best  way  to  treat 
the  Indians.  The  Aile  Rouge  had  a  beaver  robe  and  a  pipe  to  present 
to  me,  but  was  obliged  for  the  present  to  keep  them. 

We  passed  through  Lake  Pepin  with  the  barges ;  the  canoe  being 
obliged  to  lay  by  did  not  come  on  :  stopped  at  a  prairie  on  the  right  bank, 
about  nine  miles  below  Lake  Pepin  :  went  out  to  view  some  hills  which  had 
the  appearance  of  old  fortifications.     In  these  hollows  I  discovered  a  herd 


OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.  *ii9 

of  elk ;  took  out  fifteen  men,  but  we  were  not  able  to  kill  any.  Mr.  Frazer 
came  up  and  passed  on  about  two  miles ;  we  encamped  together;  neither 
Mr.  Woods  nor  my  canoe  arrived.     Snowed  considerably. 

Wednesday,  i6th  April. — Mr.  Frazer's  canoes  and  my  boats  sailed 
about  one  hour :  waited  some  time,  expecting  Mr.  Wood's  barges  and  my 
canoe,  but  hearing  a  gun  fired  just  above  our  encampment,  we  were  induced 
to  make  sail.  Passed  the  Aile  prairie,  also  "  the  mountain  that  soaks  in 
the  water,"  and  the  Prairie  de  la  Crosse,  and  encamped  on  the  western 
shore,  a  few  hundred  yards  below  where  I  had  before  encamped  in  Septem- 
ber in  ascending  :  killed  a  goose  flying;  shot  at  some  pigeons  at  our  camp, 
and  was  answered  from  behind  an  island  with  two  guns  ;  we  returned  them, 
and  were  replied  to  by  two  more.  This  day  the  trees  appeared  in  bloom  : 
snow  might  still  be  seen  on  the  sides  of  the  hills.  Distance  descended 
seventy-five  miles. 

Thursday,  1 7th  April. — Put  oflF  pretty  early  and  arrived  at  Wabasha's 
band  at  eleven  o'clock,  where  I  remained  all  day  for  the  Chief,  but  he  alone 
of  all  the  hunters  remained  out  all  night ;  left  some  powder  and  tobacco 
for  him.  The  Sioux  presented  me  with  a  kettle  of  boiled  meat  and  a  deer. 
I  here  received  information  that  the  Puants  had  killed  some  white  men 
below.     Mr.  Woods  and  my  canoe  arrived. 

Friday,  iSth  April. — Departed  from  our  encampment  very  early: 
stopped  to  breakfast  at  the  Painted  Rock;  arrived  at  the  Prairie  des 
Chiens  at  two  o'clock,  and  were  received  by  crowds  on  the  bank.  Took 
up  my  quarters  at  Mr.  Fisher's ;  my  men  received  a  present  of  one  barrel 
of  pork  from  Mr.  Campbell,  a  bag  of  biscuit,  twenty  loaves  of  bread,  and 
some  meat  from  Mr.  Fisher.  A  Mr.  Jearreau  from  Cahokia  is  here,  who 
embarks  to-morrow  for  St.  Louis;  I  wrote  to  General  Wilkinson  by  him. 
I  was  waited  upon  by  a  number  of  the  Chiefs,  Reynards,  Sioux,  Des  Moines 
and  others. 

The  Winebagoes  were  here,  intending,  as  I  was  informed,  to  deliver 
up  some  of  the  murderers  to  me.  Received  a  great  deal  of  news  from  the 
states  of  Europe,  both  civil  and  military. 

Saturday,  19th  April — Dined  at  Mr.  Campbell's  in  company  with 
Messrs.  Wilmot,  Blakely,  Wood,  Rollet,  Fisher,  Frazer,  and  Jearreau.  Six 
canoes  arrived  from  the  upper  part  of  the  St.  Peter's,  with  the  Yanctong 
chiefs  from  the  head  of   that  river  ;  their  appearance  was  indeed  savage, 


I20  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

much  more  so  than  any  nation  I  had  yet  seen.  Prepared  my  boat  for  sail; 
gave  notice  to  the  Puants  that  I  had  business  to  transact  with  them  the 
next  day.  A  band  of  the  Gens  du  Lac  arrived.  Took  into  my  pay  as 
interpreter,  Mr.  Y.  Reinville. 

Sunday,  20th  April. — Held  a  council  with  the  Puant  chiefs,  and 
demanded  of  them  the  murderers  of  their  nation;  they  required  till  to-mor- 
row to  consider  the  subject. 

This  afternoon  they  had  a  great  game  of  the  cross  on  the  prairie, 
between  the  Sioux  on  the  one  side,  and  the  Puants  and  the  Reynards  on 
the  other.  The  ball  is  made  of  some  hard  substance  and  covered  with 
leather ;  the  cross  sticks  are  round,  with  net-work,  and  handles  three  feet 
long.  The  parties  being  ready,  and  bets  agreed  upon,  (sometimes  to  the 
amount  of  some  thousands  of  dollars,)  the  goals  are  erected  on  the  prairie 
at  the  distance  of  half  a  mile  ;  the  ball  is  thrown  up  in  the  middle,  and 
each  party  strives  to  drive  it  to  the  opposite  goal ;  and  when  either 
party  gains  the  first  rubber,  which  is  drawing  it  quite  round  the  post, 
the  ball  is  again  taken  to  the  centre,  the  ground  changed,  and  the  con- 
test renewed ;  and  this  is  continued  until  one  side  gains  four  times, 
which  decides  the  bet. 

It  is  an  interesting  sight  to  behold  two  or  three  hundred  naked 
savages  contending  on  the  plain,  who  shall  bear  off  the  palm  of  victory; 
as  he  who  drives  the  ball  round  the  goal  receives  the  shouts  of  his 
companions,  in  congratulation  of  his  success.  It  sometimes  happens,  that 
one  catches  the  ball  in  his  racket,  and  depending  on  his  speed,  endeavours 
to  carry  it  to  the  goal;  and  when  he  finds  himself  too  closely  pursued,  he 
hurls  it  with  great  force  and  dexterity  to  an  amazing  distance,  where  there 
are  always  flankers  of  both  parties  ready  to  receive  it:  it  seldom  touches 
the  ground,  but  is  sometimes  kept  in  the  air  for  hours  before  either  party 
can  gain  the  victory.  In  the  game  which  I  witnessed  the  Sioux  were 
victorious,  more,  I  believe,  from  the  superiority  of  their  skill  in  throw- 
ing the  ball,  than  from  their  swiftness,  for  I  thought  the  Puants  and  Rey- 
nards the  fleetest  runners. 

I  made  a  written  demand  of  the  magistrates  to  take  depositions  con- 
cerning the  late  murders.     Had  a  private  conversation  with  Wabasha. 

Monday,  21st  April. — Was  sent  for  by  La  Feuille,  and  had  a  long  and 
interesting   conversation  with    him,    in   which  he  spoke  of  the   general 


OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.  121 

jealousy  of  his  nation  towards  their  chiefs ;  and  although  he  knew  it  might 
occasion  some  of  the  Sioux  displeasure,  he  did  not  hesitate  to  declare  that 
he  looked  on  the  Nez  Corbeau  as  the  man  of  most  sense  in  their  nation; 
and  that  he  believed  it  would  be  generally  acceptable,  if  he  were  reinstated 
in  his  rank.  Upon  my  return,  I  was  sent  for  by  the  Red  Thunder,  chief 
of  the  Yanctongs,  the  most  savage  band  of  the  Sioux.  He  was  prepared 
with  the  most  elegant  pipes  and  robes  I  ever  saw.  He  briefly  declared 
that  white  blood  had  never  been  shed  in  the  village  of  the  Yanctongs,  even 
when  rum  was  permitted:  that  Mr.  Murdock  Cameron  had  arrived  at  his 
village  last  autumn;  that  he  had  invited  him  to  eat,  given  him  corn  as  a 
bird;  that  he  (Cameron)  had  informed  him  of  the  prohibition  of  rum,  and 
was  the  only  person  who  afterwards  sold  it  in  the  village. 

After  this  I  had  a  council  with  the  Puants.  Spent  the  evening  with 
Mr.  Wilmot,  one  of  the  best  informed,  and  most  gentlemanly  man  in  the 
place. 

Tuesday,  22d  April. — Held  a  council  with  the  Sioux  and  Puants,  the 
latter  of  whom  delivered  up  their  medals  and  flags:  prepared  to  depart 
to-morrow. 

Wednesday,  23d  April. — After  closing  my  accounts,  and  concluding 
other  business,  at  half  past  twelve  o'clock  I  left  the  prairie,  and  at  the 
lower  end  of  it  was  saluted  by  seventeen  lodges  of  Puants.  Met  a  barge, 
by  which  I  received  a  letter  from  Mrs.  Pike.  Further  on,  met  one  batteau 
and  one  canoe  of  traders;  passed  one  trader's  camp;  arrived  at  Mr. 
Dubuque's  at  ten  o'clock  at  night:  found  some  traders  encamped  at  the 
entrance,  with  forty  or  fifty  Indians.  I  obtained  some  information  from 
Mr.  D.  and  requested  him  to  write  to  me  on  certain  points.  After  we  had 
boiled  our  victuals  I  divided  my  men  into  four  watches,  and  put  off;  wind 
a-head:  observed  this  day,  for  the  first  time,  the  half-formed  leaves  on  the 
trees. 

Thursday,  24th  April. — In  the  morning  used  our  oars  until  ten 
o'clock,  and  then  floated  while  breakfasting:  at  this  time  two  barges,  one 
barque,  and  two  wooden  canoes,  passed  us  under  full  sail;  by  one  of  which 
I  sent  back  a  letter  to  Mr.  Dubuque,  that  I  had  forgotten  to  deliver. 
Stopped  at  dark  to  cook  supper;  after  which,  rowed  under  the  windward 
shore,  expecting  we  could  make  headway  with  four  oars;  but  we  were 
blown  on  the  lee  shore  in  a  few  moments,  when  all  hands  were  summoned. 


122  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

and  we  again  with  difficulty  made  to  windward:  came  to,  placed  one  sentry 
on  my  bows,  and  all  hands  beside  went  to  sleep. 

It  rained  in  the  night,  and  before  morning  the  water  overflowed  my 
bed  in  the  bottom  of  the  boat,  having  no  cover,  or  any  extra  accommoda- 
tions, as  it  might  have  retarded  my  voyage.     The  wind  very  hard  a-head. 

Friday,  25th  April. — Obliged  to  unship  our  mast  to  prevent  its  roll- 
ing overboard  with  the  swell.  Passed  the  first  Reynard  village  at  twelve 
o'clock;  counted  eighteen  lodges:  stopped  at  the  prairie  in  descending,  on 
the  left,  about  the  middle  of  the  rapids,  where  there  is  a  beautiful  cove  or 
harbour.  We  found  three  lodges  of  Indians  here,  but  none  of  them  came 
near  us.  Shortly  after  we  had  left  this  place  we  observed  a  barge  under 
sail,  with  the  United  States  flag,  which,  upon  our  being  seen,  put  to  shore 
on  the  large  island,  about  three  miles  above  Stony  river,  where  I  also 
landed.  It  proved  to  be  Captain  Many,  of  the  artillery,  who  was  in  search 
of  some  Osage  prisoners  amongst  the  Sacs  and  Reynards.  He  informed 
me  that  at  the  village  of  Stony  Point  the  Indians  had  evinced  a  strong 
disposition  to  commit  hostilities;  that  he  was  met  at  the  mouth  of  the 
river  by  an  old  Indian,  who  said  that  all  the  inhabitants  of  the  village  were 
in  a  state  of  intoxication,  and  advised  him  to  go  up  alone:  this  advice,  how- 
ever, he  had  rejected.  That  when  they  arrived  there,  they  were  saluted  by 
the  appellation  of  the  Bloody  Americans,  who  had  killed  such  a  person's 
father,  and  such  a  person's  mother,  brother,  &c. ;  the  women  carried  ofT 
the  guns  and  other  arms,  and  concealed  them:  that  he  had  then  crossed 
the  river  opposite  to  the  village,  and  was  followed  by  a  number  of  Indians, 
with  pistols  under  their  blankets:  that  they  would  listen  to  no  conference 
whatever  relative  to  the  delivery  of  the  prisoners;  but  demanded,  inso- 
lently, why  he  wore  a  plume  in  his  hat;  and  declared  that  they  looked 
upon,  it  as  a  mark  of  war,  and  immediately  decorated  themselves  with 
their  ravens'  feathers,  worn  only  in  cases  of  hostility.  We  regretted  that 
our  orders  would  not  permit  of  our  punishing  the  scoundrels,  as  by  a 
coup  de  main  we  might  easily  have  carried  the  village.  Gave  Captain  Many 
a  note  of  introduction  to  Messrs.  Campbell,  Fisher,  Wilmot,  and  Dubuque, 
and  every  information  in  my  power.     We  sat  up  late  conversing. 

Saturday,  26th  April. — Captain  Many  and  myself  took  breakfast, 
and  embarked,  wind  directly  a-head,  and  a  most  tremendous  swell  to  com- 
bat with,  which  has  been  the  case  ever  since  we  left  the  prairie.     Captain 


OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.  123 

M,  departed  under  full  sail.  We  set  off  at  the  same  time,  and  descended 
by  all  the  sinuosities  of  the  shore,  to  avoid  the  strength  of  the  wind 
and  force  of  the  waves.  I  was  confident  he  could  sail  much  faster  up  than 
we  could  possibly  down  the  stream.  Encamped  on  Grant's  prairie,  where 
we  had  encamped  on  the  25th  August,  when  ascending.  There  was  one 
Indian  and  family  present,  to  whom  I  gave  some  corn. 

Sunday,  27th  April. — It  cleared  off  during  the  night;  we  embarked 
early,  and  by  sun-set  had  come  on  to  about  eight  to  ten  leagues  above  the 
River  Iowa,  to  the  establishment  at  the  lower  Sac  village,  a  distance  of 
nearly  forty-eight  leagues.  Here  I  met  with  Messrs.  Maxwell  and  Blon- 
deau;  took  the  deposition  of  the  former  on  the  subject  of  the  Indians' 
intoxication  at  this  place,  for  they  were  all  drunk.  They  had  stolen  a 
horse  from  the  establishment,  and  offered  to  bring  it  back  for  liquor;  but 
laughed  at  them  when  offered  a  blanket  and  powder.  Passed  two  canoes 
and  two  barges. 

At  the  establishment  received  two  letters  from  Mrs.  Pike;  took  with 
us  Corporal  Eddy,  and  the  other  soldier,  whom  Captain  Many  had  left 
behind.  Rowed  with  four  oars  all  night.  A  citizen  took  his  passage 
with  me. 

Monday,  28th  April. — In  the  morning  passed  a  wintering  ground, 
where,  from  appearance,  there  must  have  been  at  least  seven  or  eight 
different  establishments.  At  twelve  o'clock  arrived  at  the  French 
house,  mentioned  in  our  voyage  up  on  the  i6th  August;  here  we  landed 
our  citizen,  who  belonged  to  the  settlement  on  Copper  river.  He 
informed  me  there  were  about  twenty-five  families  in  that  settlement. 
About  ten  miles  above  Salt  river  we  stopped  at  some  islands  where  there 
were  pigeon  roosts,  and  in  about  fifteen  minutes  my  men  had  knocked  on 
the  head,  and  brought  on  board,  about  three  hundred.  I  had  frequently 
heard  of  the  fecundity  of  this  bird,  but  never  gave  credit  to  what  I  then 
thought  to  approach  the  marvellous;  but  really  the  most  fervid  imagina- 
tion cannot  conceive  their  numbers.  Their  noise  in  the  woods  was  like 
the  continued  roaring  of  the  wind,  and  the  ground  may  be  said  to  have 
been  absolutely  covered  with  their  excrement.  The  young  ones  which  we 
killed  were  nearly  as  large  as  the  old;  they  could  fly  about  ten  steps,  and 
were  one  mass  of  fat;  their  craws  were  filled  with  acorns  and  the  wild  pea. 
They  were  still  reposing  on  their  nests,  which  were  merely  small  bunches  of 
sticks  joined,  with  which  all  the  small  trees  were  covered. 


124  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

Having  proceeded  on  our  voyage,  we  met  four  canoes  of  the  Sacs, 
with  wicker  baskets  filled  with  young  pigeons.  They  made  motions  to 
exchange  them  for  liquor,  to  which  I  returned  the  back  of  my  hand. — In- 
deed the  Indians  had  become  so  insolent  through  the  instigation  of  the 
traders,  that  nothing  but  the  lenity  of  our  government,  and  humanity  for 
the  rogues,  could  have  restrained  me  on  my  descent  from  carrying  some 
of  their  towns  by  surprise,  which  I  was  determined  to  have  done,  had  the 
information  of  their  firing  on  Captain  Many  proved  to  be  correct. — I  put 
into  the  mouth  of  Salt  river  to  cook  our  supper,  after  which,  although 
raining,  we  put  off,  and  set  our  watches,  but  so  violent  a  gale  and  thunder 
storm  came  on  about  1 2  o'clock  that  we  put  ashore  :  discovered  that  one 
of  my  sledge-dogs  was  missing. 

Tuesday,  29th  April. — In  the  morning  still  raining,  the  wind  blowing 
right  a-head,  hoisted  sail  and  returned  to  the  mouth  of  the  river  ;  but  neither 
here  nor  on  the  shore  could  we  find  my  dog. — This  was  no  little  mortifica- 
tion, after  having  brought  them  so  near  home,  as  it  broke  the  match 
whose  important  services  I  had  already  experienced.  We  continued  on 
until  1 2  o'clock  when  it  ceased  raining  for  a  little  time,  and  we  put  ashore 
for  breakfast,  rowed  till  sun-down,  when  I  set  the  watch  ;  night  fine  and 
mild. 

Wednesday,  30th  April. — By  day-light  found  ourselves  at  the  Portage 
de  Sioux.  I  here  landed  Captain  Many's  two  men  and  ordered  them 
across  by  land  to  the  cantonment — as  I  had  never  seen  the  village,  I  walked 
up  through  it.  The  number  of  houses  does  not  exceed  twenty,  they  are 
built  of  square  logs. — Met  Lieutenant  Hughes,  about  four  miles  above  St. 
Louis,  with  between  twenty  and  thirty  Osage  prisoners  conveying  them  to 
the  cantonment  on  the  Missouri.  He  informed  me  my  friends  were  all 
well.  About  12  o'clock  I  arrived  with  my  party  at  the  town,  after  an 
absence  of  eight  months  and  twenty-two  days. 


INDIAN    NATIONS    INHABITING    THE    DISTRICTS    BOR- 
DERING   ON  THE  UPPER  MISSISSIPPI. 

The  first  nation  of  Indians  whom  we  met  with  in  ascending  the  Mis- 
sissippi from  St.  Louis  were  the  Sacs,  who  principally  reside  in  four 
villages.     The  first  is  situated  at  the  head  of  the  Rapids  des  Moines  on 


OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.  125 

the  western  shore,  consisting  of  thirteen  log  lodges,  the  second  on  a  prairie, 
on  the  eastern  shore  about  sixty  miles  above,  the  third  on  Rock  river, 
about  three  miles  from  the  entrance,  and  the  last  on  the  River  Iowa.  They 
hunt  on  the  Mississippi  and  its  confluent  streams  from  the  Illinois  to  the 
River  Iowa,  and  on  the  plains  west  of  them  which  border  on  the  Missouri. 
They  are  so  perfectly  consolidated  with  the  Reynards,  that  they  scarcely 
can  be  termed  a  distinct  nation,  but  recently  there  appears  to  be  a  schism 
between  them  ;  the  latter  not  approving  of  the  insolence  and  ill  will  which 
has  marked  the  conduct  of  the  former  to  the  United  States  on  many  late 
occurrences.  They  have  for  many  years  past  made  war,  under  the  auspices 
of  the  Sioux,  on  the  Sauteaux,  Osages,  and  Missouries,  but  as  at  present, 
through  the  influence  of  the  United  States,  a  peace  has  been  made  between 
them  and  the  nations  of  the  Missouri,  and  by  the  same  means  between 
the  Sioux  and  Sauteaux,  their  principal  allies:  it  appears  that  it  would 
be  by  no  means  a  difficult  matter  to  induce  them  to  make  a  general  peace, 
and  pay  still  greater  attention  to  the  cultivation  of  the  earth,  as  they  now 
raise  a  considerable  quantity  of  corn,  beans,  and  melons.  The  character 
they  bear  with  their  savage  brethren  is,  that  they  are  much  more  to  be 
dreaded  for  their  deceit  and  disposition  for  stratagem,  than  for  open  courage. 

The  Reynards  reside  in  three  villages,  the  first  situated  on  the 
western  side  of  the  Mississippi,  six  miles  above  the  rapids  of  Rock  river; 
the  second  about  twelve  miles  in  the  rear  of  the  lead  mines;  and  the 
third  on  Turkey  river,  half  a  league  from  its  entrance.  They  are  engaged 
in  the  same  wars,  and  have  the  same  alliances  as  the  Sacs,  with  whom 
they  must  be  considered  as  indissolubly  united.  They  hunt  on  both  sides 
of  the  Mississippi  from  the  River  Iowa,  below  the  Prairie  des  Chiens,  to  a 
river  of  that  name  above  the  said  village.  They  raise  a  great  quantity  of 
corn,  beans,  and  melons ;  the  former  of  those  articles  in  such  abundance 
as  to  sell  many  hundred  bushels  per  annum. 

The  lowas  reside  on  the  Rivers  des  Moines  and  Iowa  in  two  villages. 
They  hunt  on  the  western  side  of  the  Mississippi,  the  River  des  Moines, 
and  westward  to  the  Missouri ;  their  wars  and  alliances  are  the  same  as 
those  of  the  Sacs  and  Reynards,  under  whose  special  protection  they 
conceived  themselves  to  be.  They  cultivate  some  corn,  but  not  so  much 
in  proportion  as  the  two  latter  nations:  their  residence  being  on  the  small 
streams  in  the  rear  of  the  Mississippi,  out  of  the  high  road  of  commerce. 


126  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

renders  them  less  civilized.  The  Sacs,  Reynards,  and  lowas,  since  the 
treaty  of  the  two  former  with  the  United  States,  claim  the  land  from  the 
entrance  of  the  Jauflione  on  the  western  side  of  the  Mississippi,  up  the 
latter  river  to  the  Iowa,  above  the  Prairie  des  Chiens,  and  westward  to  the 
Missouri,  but  the  limits  between  themselves  are  undefined.  All  the  land 
formerly  claimed  by  those  nations  east  of  the  Mississippi  is  now  ceded 
to  the  United  States ;  but  they  reserved  to  themselves  the  privilege  of 
hunting  and  residing  on  it  as  usual. 

By  killing  the  celebrated  Sac  chief  Pontiac,  the  Illinois,  Cahokias, 
Kaskaskias,  and  Priores,  kindled  a  war  with  the  allied  nations  of  Sacs  and 
Reynards,  which  has  been  the  cause  of  the  almost  entire  destruction  of 
the  former  nations. 

The  Winebagoes,  or  Puants,  are  a  nation  who  reside  on  the  River 
Ouisconsin,  Rock  and  Fox  rivers,  and  Green  bay,  in  seven  villages, 
which  are  situated  as  follows,  viz.:  ist,  at  the  entrance  of  Green  bay:  2d, 
at  the  end  of  Green  bay  :  3d,  Wuckan:  4th,  Lake  Puckaway:  5th,  portage 
of  the  Ouisconsin :  6th  and  7th,  both  on  Rock  river.  Those  villages 
are  so  situated  that  the  Winebagoes  can  embody  the  whole  force  of  their 
nation,  at  one  point  of  their  territory,  in  four  days.  They  hunt  on  the 
Ouisconsin,  Rock  river,  and  the  eastern  side  of  the  Mississippi,  from 
Rock  river  to  the  Prairie  des  Chiens,  on  Lake  Michigan,  Black  river, 
and  the  countries  between  Lakes  Michigan,  Huron,  and  Superior.  From 
a  tradition  amongst  themselves,  and  their  speaking  the  same  language  as 
the  Ottoes  of  the  River  Plate,  I  am  confident  in  asserting  that  they  are 
a  nation  who  have  emigrated  from  Mexico,  to  avoid  the  oppression  of  the 
Spaniards;  and  the  time  may  be  fixed  at  one  and  a  half  centuries  past; 
when  they  were  taken  under  the  protection  of  the  Sioux,  to  whom  they 
still  profess  to  owe  faith,  and  at  least  brotherly  attention.  They  have 
formerly  been  at  war  with  the  nations  west  of  the  Mississippi,  but  appear 
recently  to  have  laid  down  the  hatchet.  They  are  reputed  brave,  but 
from  every  circumstance  their  neighbours  distinguish  their  bravery  as  the 
ferocity  of  a  tiger,  rathef  than  the  deliberate  resolution  of  a  man.  Lately 
their  conduct  has  been  such  as  to  authorize  the  remark  made  by  a  chief 
of  a  neighbouring  nation,  that  a  white  man  never  should  lie  down  to  sleep 
in  their  villages  without  precaution. 


OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.  127 

The  Menomene,  or  Fols  Avoin  nation,  as  it  is  termed  by  the  French, 
reside  in  seven  villages,  situated  as  follows,  viz.:  ist,  at  the  River  Menom- 
ene, fifteen  leagues  from  Green  bay,  on  the  north  side  of  the  lake:  2d, 
at  Green  bay:  3d,  at  Little  Kokalin;  4th,  portage  of  Kokalin:  5th,  Puant 
lake:  6th,  entrance  of  a  small  lake  on  Fox  river:  and  7th,  behind  Les 
Buttes  des  Morts  Their  hunting  grounds  are  the  same  as  those  of  the 
Winebagoes,  only  that,  owing  to  the  very  high  estimation  in  which  they 
are  held  both  by  the  Sioux  and  Chippeways,  they  are  frequently  permitted 
to  hunt  near  the  Raven  river  on  the  Mississippi,  which  may  be  termed  the 
battle  ground  between  those  two  great  nations. 

The  language  which  they  speak  is  singular,  for  no  white  man  has  ever 
yet  been  known  to  acquire  it.  But  this  may  probably  be  attributed  to 
their  all  understanding  the  Algonquin,  in  which  they  and  the  Wine- 
bagoes carry  on  all  conferences  with  the  whites  or  other  nations;  and  the 
facility  with  which  that  language  is  acquired  is  a  further  reason  for  its 
prevalence. 

The  Fols  Avoin,  although  a  small  nation,  are  respected  by  all  their 
neighbours  for  their  bravery  and  independent  spirit,  and  esteemed  by  the 
whites  as  their  friends  and  protectors,  when  in  their  country. 

The  Sacs,  Reynards,  Puants,  and  Menomenes  all  reside,  when  not  at 
their  villages,  in  lodges  in  the  form  of  an  ellipsis,  some  of  them  thirty  to 
forty  feet  in  length,  by  fourteen  or  fifteen  wide;  which  are  sufificiently 
large  to  shelter  sixty  people  from  the  storm,  or  for  twenty  to  reside  in. 
Their  covering  is  formed  of  rushes  plaited  into  mats,  and  carefully  tied  to 
poles.  In  the  centre  are  fires,  immediately  over  which  is  a  small  aperture 
in  the  lodge,  which  in  fair  weather  is  sufficient  to  give  vent  to  the  smoke, 
but  in  bad  weather  you  must  lie  down  on  the  ground  to  prevent  being  con- 
siderably incommoded  by  it. 

We  next  came  to  that  powerful  nation  the  Sioux,  the  dread  of  whom 
is  extended  over  all  the  savage  tribes,  from  the  confluence  of  the  Missis- 
sippi and  Missouri,  to  the  Raven  river  on  the  former,  and  to  the  Snake 
Indians  on  the  latter;  but  in  those  limits  are  many  nations,  whom  they 
consider  as  allies,  on  a  similar  footing  with  the  allies  of  ancient  Rome, 
that  is,  humble  dependents.  But  the  Chippeway  nation  is  an  exception, 
who  have  maintained  a  long  contest  with  them,  owing  to  their  country 
being  intersected  by  numerous  small   lakes,  watercourses,  impenetrable 


128  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

morasses,  and  swamps;  and  they  have  hitherto  bidden  defiance  to  all  the 
attacks  of  their  neighbours.  In  order  to  have  a  correct  idea  of  the  Sioux 
nation,  it  is  necessary  to  divide  it  into  the  different  bands  as  distinguished 
by  themselves.  Agreeably  to  this  plan,  I  shall  begin  with  the  Minowa 
Kantong,  or  Gens  du  Lac,  who  extend  from  the  Prairie  des  Chiens  to  La 
Prairie  des  Fran9ois,  thirty-five  miles  up  the  St.  Peter's.  This  band  is 
again  subdivided  into  four  parts  under  different  chiefs.  The  first  of  these 
most  generally  resides  at  their  village  on  the  upper  Iowa  river  above  the 
Prairie  des  Chiens,  and  is  commanded  by  Wabasha,  a  chief  whose  father 
was  considered  as  the  first  chief  of  all  the  Sioux  nations.  This  subdivision 
hunts  on  both  sides  of  the  Mississippi,  and  its  confluent  streams,  from  the 
Prairie  des  Chiens  to  Buffalo  river.  The  second  subdivision  resides  near 
the  head  of  Lake  Pepin,  and  hunts  from  the  Buffalo  river  to  near  the  River 
St.  Croix.  The  chief's  name  is  Talangamane,  a  very  celebrated  warrior. 
The  third  subdivision  resides  between  Cannon  river  and  the  entrance  of 
St.  Peter's.  It  is  headed  by  Chatewaconamani;  their  principal  hunting 
ground  is  on  the  St.  Croix;  they  have  a  village  at  a  place  called  the  Grand 
Marais,  fifteen  miles  below  the  entrance  of  the  St.  Peter's.  It  is  situated  on 
the  eastern  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  and  consists  of  eleven  log  huts.  The 
fourth  subdivision  is  situated  in  the  territory  extending  from  the  entrance 
of  the  St.  Peter's  to  the  Prairie  des  Francois;  it  is  headed  by  a  chief  called 
Chatamutah,  but  a  young  man  named  Wagaganage  has  recently  taken  the 
lead  in  all  its  councils  and  affairs  of  state.  It  has  one  village  nine  miles 
up  the  St.  Peter's,  on  the  northeast  side.  This  band,  Minowa  Kantong, 
are  reputed  the  bravest  of  all  the  Sioux,  and  have  for  years  been  opposed 
to  the  Fols  Avoin  Sauteurs,  who  are  reputed  the  bravest  of  all  the  numer- 
ous bands  of  the  Chippeways.  The  second  band  of  the  Sioux  are  the 
Washpetong,  or  Gens  des  Feuilles,  who  inhabit  the  country  from  the 
Prairie  des  Francois,  nearly  to  Roche  Blanche,  on  the  St.  Peter's.  Their 
first  chief  is  Wasonquianni.  They  hunt  on  the  St.  Peter's,  also  on  the 
Mississippi,  up  Rum  river,  and  sometimes  follow  the  buffalo  on  the  plains. 
Their  subdivisions  I  am  unacquainted  with. 

The  third  band  are  the  Sussitongs:  they  extend  from  the  Roche 
Blanche  to  Lac  de  la  Grosse  Roche,  on  the  River  St.  Peter's;  they  are 
divided  into  two  subdivisions.  The  first  band,  called  the  Carrees,  are 
headed  by  the  chief    Wuckieu  Nutch,    or    the  Tonnerre    Rouge.     The 


OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.  129 

second,  called  the  Sussitongs  proper,  are  headed  by  Wacanto  (or  Esprit 
Bleu).  These  two  sub-bands  hunt  eastward  to  the  Mississippi,  and  up  that 
river  as  far  as  Raven  river.  The  fourth  great  band  are  the  Yanctongs, 
who  are  dispersed  from  the  Montagnes  de  la  Prairie,  which  extend  from 
St.  Peter's  to  the  Missouri,  to  the  River  des  Moines.  They  are  divided 
into  two  grand  divisions,  generally  termed  the  Yanctongs  of  the  north 
and  the  Yanctongs  of  the  south.  The  former  are  headed  by  a  chief, 
called  Muckpeanutah,  or  Nuage  Rouge,  and  those  of  Prairie  by  Petessung. 
This  band  are  never  stationary,  but,  with  the  Tetons,  are  the  most  erratic 
of  all  the  Sioux;  sometimes  to  be  found  on  the  borders  of  the  lower  Red 
river,  sometimes  on  the  Missouri,  and  on  those  immense  plains  which  lie 
between  the  two  rivers. 

The  fifth  great  band  are  the  Tetons,  who  are  dispersed  on  both  sides 
of  the  Missouri.  On  the  north,  principally  from  the  River  Chien  up,  and 
on  the  south,  from  the  Mahas  to  the  Minetares  or  Gross  Ventre. 
They  may  be  divided  into  the  Tetons  of  the  north  and  south,  but  the 
immense  plains  over  which  they  rove  with  the  Yanctongs  render  it 
impossible  to  point  out  their  places  of  habitation. 

The  sixth  and  smallest  band  of  the  Sioux,  are  the  Washpeconte,  who 
reside  generally  on  the  lands  west  of  the  Mississippi,  between  that  river 
and  the  Missouri.  They  hunt  most  generally  on  the  head  of  the  River 
des  Moines.     They  appeared  to  me  to  be  the  most  stupid  of  all  the  Sioux. 

The  Minowa  Kantongs  are  the  only  band  of  Sioux  who  use  canoes, 
and  are  by  far  the  most  civilized,  being  the  only  ones  who  have  ever  built 
log  huts,  or  cultivated  any  species  of  vegetables,  and  they  but  a  very  small 
quantity  of  corn  and  beans;  for  although  I  was  with  them  in  September  or 
October,  I  never  saw  one  kettle  of  either,  always  using  the  wild  oats  for 
bread.  This  production  nature  has  furnished  to  all  the  most  uncultivated 
nations  of  the  north-west  continent,  who  may  gather  a  sufificiency  in 
autumn.  This,  added  to  the  productions  of  the  chase,  and  the  net,  ensures 
them  a  subsistence  through  all  the  seasons  of  the  year.  This  band  is 
entirely  armed  with  fire-arms,  but  is  not  considered  by  the  other  bands  as 
anything  superior  on  that  account,  especially  on  the  plains. 

The  Washpetongs  are  a  roving  band;  they  leave  the  River  St.  Peter's 
in  the  month  of  April,  and  do  not  return  from  the  plains  until  the  month  of 
August.     The  Sussitongs,  of  Roche  Blanche,  have  the  character  of  being 


I30  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

the  most  evil  disposed  Indians  on  the  River  St.  Peter's.  They  Hkewise 
follow  the  buffalo  in  the  spring  and  summer  months.  The  Sussitongs  of 
the  Lac  de  la  Grosse  Roche  have  the  character  of  good  hunters,  and  brave 
warriors,  which  may  principally  be  attributed  to  their  chief,  the  Tonnerre 
Rouge,  who  at  the  present  day  is  allowed  by  both  white  people  and 
savages  of  different  bands  (often  their  own  chiefs)  to  be  the  first  man  in 
the  Sioux  nation.  The  Yanctongs  and  Tetons  are  the  most  independent 
Indians  in  the  world;  they  follow  the  buffalo  as  chance  directs,  clothing 
themselves  with  the  skin,  and  making  their  lodges,  saddles,  and  bridles,  of 
the  same  materials,  the  flesh  of  the  animal  furnishing  their  food.  Possess- 
ing an  innumerable  stock  of  horses,  they  are  here  this  day  and  five 
hundred  miles  off  in  ten  days  hence,  and  find  themselves  equally  at  home 
in  either  place,  moving  with  a  rapidity  scarcely  to  be  imagined  by  the 
inhabitants  of  the  civilized  world. 

The  trade  of  the  Minowa  Kantongs,  Washpetongs,  Sussitongs,  and 
part  of  the  Yanctongs,  is  all  derived  from  the  traders  of  Michillimackinac, 
and  the  latter  supply  the  Yanctongs  of  the  north  and  Tetons  with  the  small 
quantities  of  iron-works  which  they  require.  Fire-arms  are  not  in  r..  ;  h 
estimation  with  them.  The  Washpecontes  trade  principally  with  the 
people  of  the  Prairie  des  Chiens. 

The  claim  of  limits  of  the  Sioux  nation  is  allowed  by  all  their  neigh- 
bours to  commence  at  the  Prairie  des  Chiens,  and  to  ascend  the  Mississippi 
on  both  sides  the  Raven  river,  up  that  river  to  its  source,  thence  to  the 
source  of  St.  Peter's,  from  thence  to  the  Montagues  de  la  Prairie,  thence 
to  the  Missouri,  down  that  river  to  the  Mahas,  bearing  thence  north-east  to 
the  source  of  the  River  des  Moines,  and  from  thence  again  to  the  Prairie 
des  Chiens.  They  also  claim  a  large  territory  south  of  the  Missouri,  but  how 
far  it  extends  is  uncertain.  The  country  east  of  the  Mississippi  from  Rum 
river  to  Raven  river  is  likewise  in  dispute  between  them  and  the  Chippeways, 
and  has  been  the  scene  of  many  a  sharp  encounter  for  near  one  hundred  and 
fifty  years  past.  From  my  knowledge  of  the  Sioux,  I  do  not  hesitate  to 
pronounce  them  the  most  warlike  and  independent  nation  of  the  Indians 
within  the  boundaries  of  the  United  States,  their  every  passion  being  sub- 
servient to  that  of  war,  while  at  the  same  time  the  traders  feel  themselves 
perfectly  secure  from  any  combination  being  made  against  them.  But  it 
is  extremely  necessary  to  be  careful  not  to  injure  the  honour  or  feelings  of 


OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.  131 

an  individual,  which  is  certainly  the  principal  cause  of  many  broils  that 
occur  between  them.  Never  was  a  trader  known  to  suffer  in  the  estima- 
tion of  the  nation  by  resenting  any  indignity  offered  him,  even  if  he  went  so 
far  as  the  taking  of  the  life  of  the  offender.  Their  gutteral  pronunciation, 
high  cheek  bones,  their  visages,  and  distinct  manners,  together  with  their 
own  traditions,  supported  by  the  testimony  of  neighbouring  nations,  put 
it  in  my  mind  beyond  the  shadow  of  a  doubt,  that  they  have  emigrated 
from  the  north-west  point  of  America,  to  which  they  had  come  across  the 
narrow  straits,  which  in  that  quarter  divide  the  two  continents,  and  are 
absolutely  descendants  of  a  Tartar  tribe. 

The  only  personal  knowledge  I  have  of  the  Chippeway  nation,  is 
restricted  to  the  tribes  of  the  south  of  Lake  Superior;  head  waters  of  the 
Chippeway  river  and  the  St.  Croix,  and  those  who  reside  at  Sandy  lake, 
Leech  lake.  Rainy  lake,  Red  lake,  and  the  head  of  the  Red  river,  the 
Mississippi,  and  Raven  rivers.  Like  the  Sioux  they  are  divided  into  many 
bands,  the  names  of  only  seven  of  which  I  am  acquainted  with.  I  shall 
begin  with  those  who  reside  on  the  south  side  of  Lake  Superior,  and 
on  Sandy  and  Leech  lakes,  with  the  adjacent  country.  They  are 
generally  denominated  by  the  traders  by  the  name  of  Sauteaux,  but 
those  of  the  head  waters  of  the  Chippeway  and  St.  Croix  rivers  are  called 
Fols  Avoin  Sauteaux:  I  am  unacquainted  with  the  names  of  their  chiefs. 
Those  of  Sandy  lake  are  headed  by  a  chief  called  Catawabata,  or  De 
Breche.  They  hunt  on  the  Mille  Lacs,  Red  lake,  and  the  eastern  bank  of 
the  Mississippi,  from  Rum  river  up  to  the  Raven  river,  and  from  thence 
on  both  sides  of  the  Mississippi  to  Pine  river,  on  that  river  also,  up  the 
Mississippi  again  to  Sandy  lake,  to  nearly  about  one  hundred  miles  above 
that  lake.  Those  of  Leech  lake  hunt  on  its  streams,  Lake  Winipic,  upper 
Red  Cedar  lake,  the  Otter  Tail  lake,  head  of  Raven  river,  and  the  upper 
part  of  lower  Red  river;  their  chief  is  La  Gueule  Plate,  or  Eskibugeckoge. 

2d.  The  Crees  reside  on  Red  lake,  and  hunt  in  its  vicinity,  and  on 
Red  river;  their  first  chief's  name  is  Wiscoup,  or  Le  Sucre. 

3d.  The  Nepesangs  reside  on  Lake  Nippising,  and  on  Lake  St.  Joseph. 

4th,  The  Algonquins  reside  on  the  lake  of  the  two  mountains,  and 
are  dispersed  along  the  north  side  of  Lakes  Ontario  and  Erie.  From  this 
tribe  the  language  of  the  Chippeways  derives  its  name,  and  the  whole 
nation  is  frequently  designated  by  the  same  appellation. 


132  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

5th.  The  Ottoways  reside  on  the  north-western  side  of  Lake  Michi- 
gan and  Lake  Huron,  and  hunt  between  those  lakes  and  Lake  Superior. 

6th.  The  Iroquois  Chippeways  are  dispersed  along  the  banks  of  all 
the  great  lakes  from  Ontario  to  the  Lake  of  Woods. 

7th.  The  Muscononges  reside  on  the  waters  of  lower  Red  river,  near 
to  Lake  Winipic,  and  are  the  farthest  band  of  the  Chippeways.  The 
Chippeways  were  the  great  and  almost  natural  enemies  of  the  Sioux,  with 
whom  they  have  been  waging  a  war  of  extermination  for  near  two  centuries. 
On  my  arrival  amongst  them,  I  succeeded  in  inducing  both  sides  to  agree 
to  a  peace;  and  no  blood  was  shed  from  September,  1805,  to  April,  1806, 
when  I  left  the  country.  The  object  had  frequently  been,  in  vain, 
attempted  by  the  British  Government,  who  often  brought  the  chiefs  of  the 
two  nations  together  at  Michillimackinac,  made  them  presents,  &c.;  but 
the  Sioux,  still  haughty  and  overbearing,  spurned  the  proffered  calumet, 
and  returned  to  renew  the  scenes  of  slaughter  and  barbarity.  It  may  then 
be  demanded,  how  could  a  subaltern  with  twenty  men,  and  no  presents 
worthy  of  notice,  effect  that  which  the  Governors  of  Canada  with  all  the 
immense  finances  of  the  Indian  department  had  attempted  in  vain,  although 
they  had  frequently  and  urgently  recommended  it  ?  I  reply,  that  the 
British  Government,  it  is  true,  requested,  recommended,  and  made 
presents,  but  all  this  at  a  distance,  and  when  the  chiefs  returned  to 
their  bands  their  thirst  of  blood  soon  obliterated  from  their  recollection 
the  lectures  of  humanity  which  they  had  heard  in  the  councils  of  Michilli- 
mackinac But  when  I  appeared  amongst  them,  the  United  States  had 
lately  acquired  the  jurisdiction  overthem,  andthenameof  the  Americans,  as 
warriors,  had  frequently  been  sounded  in  their  ears;  and  when  I  spoke  to 
them  on  the  subject,  I  recommended  them,  in  the  name  of  their  great 
Father  to  make  peace,  and  offered  them  the  benefit  of  the  mediation  and 
guarantee  of  the  United  States,  and  spoke  of  the  peace,  not  as  a  benefit 
to  us,  but  a  step  taken  to  make  themselves  and  children  happy.  This 
language,  held  up  to  both  nations,  with  the  assistance  of  the  traders,  a 
happy  coincidence  of  circumstances,  and,  may  I  not  add,  the  concurrence 
of  the  Almighty,  effected  that  which  had  before  been  long  attempted  with- 
out success.  But  I  am  perfectly  convinced,  that  unless  troops  are  sent  up 
between  those  two  nations,  with  an  agent  whose  business  it  should  be  to 
watch  the  rising  discontents,  and  check  the  brooding  spirit  of  revenge,  the 


OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.  133 

weapons  of  death  will  again  be  raised,  and  the  echoes  of  savage  barbarity 
resound  through  the  wilderness. 

The  Chippeways  are  uncommonly  attached  to  spirituous  liquors  ;  but 
may  not  this  be  owing  to  their  traders,  who  find  it  their  interest  to  encour- 
age their  thirst  after  an  article,  which  enables  them  to  obtain  their  peltries 
at  so  low  a  rate  as  scarcely  to  be  denominated  a  consideration,  and  have 
reduced  the  people  near  the  establishment  to  a  degree  of  degradation 
unparalleled  ? 

The  Algonquin  language  is  one  of  the  most  copious  and  sonorous  of 
all  the  savage  dialects  in  North  America,  and  is  spoken  and  understood  by 
the  various  nations  (except  the  Sioux)  from  the  gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  to 
Lake  Winipic. 

The  Chippeways  are  much  more  mild  and  docile  than  the  Sioux,  and 
if  we  may  judge  frOm  unprejudiced  observers,  more  cool  and  deliberate  in 
action*;  but  the  latter  possess  a  much  higher  sense  of  the  honour  of  their 
nation,  while  the  former  plan  for  self-preservation.  The  Sioux  attack  with 
impetuosity,  the  others  defend  with  every  necessary  precaution.  But  the 
superior  number  of  the  Sioux  would  have  enabled  them  to  annihilate  the 
Chippeways  long  since,  had  it  not  been  for  the  nature  of  the  country, 
which  entirely  precludes  the  possibility  of  an  attack  on  horseback.  It  also 
gives  them  a  decided  advantage  over  an  enemy,  who  being  half  armed 
with  arrows,  the  least  twig  of  a  bush  would  turn  the  shaft  of  death  out  of 
its  direction;  a  bullet  holds  its  course,  nor  spends  its  force  short  of  the 
destined  victim.  Thus  we  generally  have  found,  that  when  engaged  in 
a  prairie,  the  Sioux  came  off  victorious,  but  when  in  the  woods,  if  not 
obliged  to  retreat,  the  carcasses  of  their  slaughtered  brethren  have  shown 
them  how  dearly  they  purchase  victory. 

The  Sioux  are  bounded  on  the  north-east  and  north  by  those  two 
powerful  nations  the  Chippeways  and  Knisteneaux,  whose  manners, 
strength,  and  boundaries,  are  ably  described  by  Sir  Alexander  Mackenzie. 
The  Assinniboins,  or  Stone  Sioux,  who  border  the  Chippeways  on  the 
north-west  and  west,  are  a  revolted  band  of  the  Sioux,  and  have  maintained 
a  war  with  the  present  nation  for  about  a  century,  and  rendered  them- 
selves their  most  violent  enemies.  They  extend  from  Red  river  west, 
nearly  to  the  Stony  mountains,  and  are  computed  at  one  thousand  five 
hundred  warriors.  They  reside  on  the  plains,  and  follow  the  buffalo,  conse- 
quently they  have  very  little  occasion  for  traders  or  European  productions. 


134     '  VOYAGE    TO  THE  SOURCE 

Abstract  of  the  Number,  &c.,  of  the  Nations  of  Indians  residing  on  the  Mississippi  and  its  confluent 


Names  of  the  „ 
different  na->  ^ 
tions,  as  pro- 
nounced 
the   English 
lang^uage. 


m  I  ti  ve 
na  m  e  s 
given  by  the 
lavages 
themselves. 


Foxei. . 


lowas. . 


Winebagoes., 


Ochangras . 


Menomenes. 


Sues. 


People  of  the 
Lakes 


People  of  the 
Leaves, 


Ottagaumic. 


Aiowais.. 


Puants. 


Nafcotah. . 


Minowa  Kan- 
long. 


Washpetong. 


Names  given 
them  by  the 
French, 


Reynards 


Fols  Avoin. . . 


Sioux. . 


Gens  du  Lac, 


Gens  des 

Feuilles 


Sioux,  carried  forward  . 


850 


485    950  1730 


2850 


c  c 


ops 


33165 


195    465 


Primitive  Lan- 
guage. 


Sauk,  with  s 
small  differ 
ence  in  the 
idiom 


Missouries. 


Missouries,  or 
Zoto. 


Of  Ditto. 


Narcotab  . 


Ditto  . 


Traders  or  Bands 
with  whom  they 


Of  Michillimac- 
kinac,  SuLouis. 
with  the  people 
of  the  Prairie 
des  Chiens. 


Ditto  . 


Of    Michillimac- 
kinac. 


Of  Ditto. 


Of  Ditto 


Of  Ditto. 


°  «j  rt  o 
«  c     •;: 

< 


Dollars 
15000 


8500 


Dols. 

600 


Principally  Deer-skins,  some  Bear, 
and  a  few  Otter,  Beaver  and 
Rackoon. 


Principally  Deer,  a  few  Bear,  with 
a  small  proportion  more  of  Furs. 


Deerskins,  Black  Bear,  Otter, 
Beaver,  Mink,  Rackoon,  Grey 
Fox,  and  Musk-rat. 

The  same  as  the  Fox's. 


Species  of  Peltry, 


Beaver,  Marten,  Grey  Fox,  Mink, 
Muskrat,  Otter,  Deer-skins,  Elk- 
skins,  &c. 


Deer-skins,  a  few  Bear,  some 
Beaver,  Rackoon,  &c. 


Deer-skins,  a  few  Buffalo  Robes, 
some  Beaver,  Otter,  Mink,  Ac 


OF  THE   MISSISSIPPI. 

Streams,  from  St.  Louis,  Louisiana,  to  its  Source,  includinrj  Red  Lake  and  Lower  Red  River. 


135 


The  positions  most  proper 
for  trading  establish 
ments. 


Nations  with  whom  at 
war. 


Nations  with  whom 
at  peace,  or  in  alli- 
ance. 


N'ames  of  the  Chiefs  or  principal  Men. 


French. 


English. 


Remarks. 


At  the  head  of  the  Rapid 
Des  Moines. 


On  a  small  stream  called 
Giards  river,  nearly  op- 
posite the  Prairie  des 
Chiens,  or  at  the  conflu- 
ence of  the  Mijssissippi 
and  the  Ouisconsin. 

On  the  Rivers  Des  Moines 
and  Iowa. 


Portag^e  de  Kokalin,  on 
Fox  river,  or  at  the 
Grand  Calumet. 


Portage  des  Peres»  on  the 
Fox  river. 


Chippeways . 


Reynards,  Puants, 
Sioux,  Osage,  Pot 
owatomies,  F  o  1  s 
Avoin,  lowaSf  and 
all  the  nations  of 
the  Missouri. 


Washione. 
Pockquinike . 


Bras  Cass6. 


Broken  Arm. 


Chippeways . 


Ditto  . 


Olopier  . 
Fecit.... 
Akaque. 


Le  Petit  Corbeau 
La  Peau  Blanche 


Little  Raven. 
White  Skin. 


Chippeways . 


Since  the  peace  was  made 
between  the  O sages, 
Sacs,  and  Reynards,  the 
Puants  have  tacitly 
ceased  to  make  war  on 
the  former. 


None . 


Ditto. 


In  alliance  with  the 
Sacs,  Reynards, 
Fols  Avoins,  &c., 
and  at  peace  with 
all  other  nations. 


Ottoway,Chippeway, 
and  Ochangras ;  and 
at  peace  with  all 
nationa. 


NewOkat,. 


Sansamani     Che- 
noway'sSon... 

ICaramone 

Du  Quarr6 

Macraragah 


Tomaw . . . . 
Shawonoc. 
Neckech. 


Thomas  Carron.. 


Thomas  Carron. 


Wabasha. . 


La  Feuille. 


The  Leaf  . 


Bntrance  St.  Croix. 


Little  Rapids. 
Saint  Peter's. 


Recently  with  the  Chip- 
peways, but  now  a 
peace  with  the  Assin 
niboins,  and  some  na- 
tions on  the  Missouri. 


\  Ditto . 


With  the  Sacs,  Rey- 
nards, lowas,  and 
Fols  Avoins. 


Talangamane. . 
Chatewacona- 


Tahamie... 
Tatamane. , 


L'Aile  Rouge 

Petit  Corbeau... 

L'Orignal  Lev6. 
Nez  Corbeau. . . . 


Ditto . 


Wasonquianni . . 

Wukunsna 

Houho  Otah 


L*Araign6eJaune- 

Tonnerre         qui 

Sonne 


First  Fox  Chief. 


First  Chief  of  the  nation— re- 
ceived a  commission  as  first 
chief. 

Commissioned. 

Ditto. 

Ditto. 

Ditto, 

First  chief  of  the  nation— re- 
ceived a  commission  as  first 
chief  and  a  flag. 

First  chief  of  the  nation. 
Literally  translated  — receiv- 
ed a  commission  and  &ig. 


The  Red  Wing. 

Little  Raven... 

Rising  Moose. . 
Raven  Nose.. .. 


Yellow  Spider .     . 
The  Rolling  Thunder 
The  Stone  of  Fruit.. 


Ditto. 


Ditto. 


Received  a  commission  and 

flag. 
Literally  translated. 
Literally,    the    wind    that 

walks :  commissioned. 


First  chi^  of  the  nation. 
Literally  translated. 
Received  a  commission  and 
flag. 


136  VOYAGE    TO  THE  SOURCE 

(Continued.)  Abstract  of  the  Number,  &c.,  of  the  Nations  of  Indians  residing  on  the  Mississippi  and  its  confluent 


Names  of  the 
different  na- 
tions, as  pro- 
nounced 
the  Eng^lish 
language. 


Sissitons . 


Vanktons . 


Tetons. 


Titong. 


People  of  the 
Leaves  de- 
tached. 


Cluppeways 


Leapers . , 


Primitive 
names,  as 
given  by  the 
b  a  V  a  g  e  s 
themselves. 


Names  given 
them  by  the 
French, 


Sioux,  brought  forward 


Sussitongs. . . 


Yanctong  . . . 


Washpeconte 


Sussitongs,., 


Yanctong., 


Titong. 


Gens  des  Feu- 
illes  tirees. 
Total  Sioux 


3835 


This  is  merely  a  band  of 
v^abonds  who  are  formed 
by  refugees  from  all  the 
other  bands,  which  they 
have  left  for  some  bad 
deed. 

Ouchipawah.  Sauteurs, 


Sauteurs 


Of  Sandy       1 
Lake 


Of  Leech 

Lake.... 


Of  Red 
Lake.. 


Of  St.  Croix  and  the  Chippeway  river, 

Of  the  other  bands  generally 

Total  Chippeways.. 


485 


360 


150 

104 

1600 


2049 


3600 


165 


3184 


690 


3165 


af6o 


21675 


689 
8000 


11177 


^  o 
°0i 


65 


64 


630 


46s 


90 

1265 


Primitive   Lan- 
guage. 


Narcotah  . 


Ditto 


Ditto . 


Ditto  . 


Algonquin . 
Ditto 

Ditto 

Ditto 

Ditto 


Traders  or  Bands 
with  whom  they 
traffic. 


i;  rt  (« 

C  en  3 
v5  «  = 

W    "    5    r-* 

^  u  C  C 

°  1)  rt  O 

*j  c     •;; 
c     u  o. 

0.23  "  5 
< 


Of  Michillimac- 
kinac. 


Of  Ditto 


With  Yanctongs 
and  part  of  the 
Sussitongs. 


People  of  the 
Prairie  des  Chi- 
ens  and  on  the 
head  of  Des 
Moines. 


N.-W.  Company 


Ditto. 


Ditto 

Ditto 

Ditto  and  others. 


Dollars 


s.s 

fa- 


Uncertain. 


species  of  Peltry. 


Deer-skins  and  a  large  proportion 
of  robes,  with  Furs  gathered 
from  the  Raven  river. 


Principally  Buffalo  robes. 


Buffalo  robea. 


Deer-sldns,    Beaver,    Otter,    Bear,  | 


Beaver,  Muskrat,  Otter,  Marten, 
Black  and  Silver  Fox,  &c. 


Ditto. 

I  Ditto. 
Ditto. 
Unknoim. 


OF  THE   MISSISSIPPI.      . 

Streams,  from  St.  Louis,  Louisiana,  to  its  Source,  including  Red  Lake  and  Lower  Red  River. 


137 


The  positions  most  proper    Nations  with  whom  at 
for  trading  establish-j  war. 

ments. 


Lac  de  la  Grosse  Roche, 
Saint  Peter's. 


Various    nations    of    the 
Missoun. 


Prairie  des  Chiens. 


Ditto . 


Sandy  Lake., 


Leech  Lake. 


Red  Lake. 


South  side  of  Lake  Su- 
perior. 


Recently  with  the  Chip- 
peways,  but  now  a 
peace  with  the  Assin- 
niboins  and  some  na' 
lions  on  the  Missouri. 


Recently  the  Sioux ;  but 
now  at  peace.  At  war 
with  the  Sacs,  Foxes, 
and  lowas. 

Ditto 


Ditto . 
Ditto . 


Nations  with  whom 
at  peace,  or  in  alli- 
ance. 


With  the  Sacs,  Rey- 
nards,  lowas,  and 
Fols  Avoins. 


Ditto  . 


Ditto  . 


Wacanto. 

Waminisabah.. .. 

Itoye 

Wuckieu  Nutch.. 

Petcssung. 

Muckpeanutah. . . 
Champanage. 

Chantaoeteka  — 

Shenouskar 

Wamanoepenu- 
tah. 

Tantangashatah . 
Kachiwasigon  . . . 


With  the  Fols  Avoins 
and  all  the  nations 
of  Canada. 

Ditto 


Ditto  . 


Names  of  the  Chiefs  or  principal  Men. 


Catawabata.... 

Eskibugeckoge 
Obigouitte.  ... 
Oole 

Wiscoup 

Necktame 


French. 


Esprit  Bleu  

Killeur  Noir 

Gross  Calumet. . 
Tonnerre  Rouge 


LaVache  Blanche 
Nuage  Rouge. 

Le  CceurMauvais 

La  Couvertc 
Blanche. 

Le  Coeur  du  Kil- 
leur Rouge. 

Le  Bceuf  quijoue 

LeCorbcau  Fran- 
cois. 


Blue  Spirit 

Black  Eagle 

Big  Pipe. 

Red  Thunder 

White  Buffalo. 

Red  Cloud 

The  Bad  Heart. 

White  Blanket 

The  Heart  of  the  Red 
Eagle. 

The  Playing  Buffalo. 
The  French  Raven. . . 


De  Breche 

Gueule  Plate 

Chef  de  la  Terre, 
LaBrul6 

Le  Sucre 

Premier 


English. 


First  chief  of  his  band. 
Literally  translated. 

A  literal  translation— first  chief » 
of  all  the  Sioux. 

Literally  translated. 

Ditto.  FirstChicf  of  the  nation. 


Of  Bois  Brule. 
Okandandas. 


Broken  Teeth 

Flat  Mouth 

Chief  of  the  land 
The  Burnt. 

The  Sweet 

Head  Chief 


Remarks. 


Literal  translation. 
Ditto. 


First  chief  of  his  band. 


First  chiei  01  his  band. 


First  chief  of  his  band. 


Resides  on  Lac  La  Pluie  river. 


138 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 


RECAPITULATION. 


Names  of  Nations. 

.2 

t 

"o 
d 

c 

V 

E 

1 

0 

d 
2 

0 
K 

is 
u 

"0 

d 
2 

(A 
V 

M 

-2 

> 

'0 

d 

d 

s 

a, 

•o-S 

1^ 

< 

"o 
d 
2 

Sacs, 

Foxes, 

lowas, 

Winebagoes,      -     - 
Menomenes,     -     -     - 

Sioux, 

Chippeways,    -     -     - 

700 
400 
300 

300 

3.835 
2,049 

750 
500 
400 
500 
350 
7.030 
3.184 

1,400 
850 
700 

1,000 

700 

I  1,800 

5.944 

3 

3 
2 

7 
7 
3 

2,850 

1.750 
1,400 

1,950 

1.350 

21,675 

11,177 

1,270 
603 

700 
400 
250 
450 
300 
1,265 
2,049 

Total,     -    •     - 

8,034 

12,714 

22,394 

25 

42,152 

1.873 

5,414 

OBSERVATIONS 


ON  THE  TRADE,  VIEWS,  AND  POLICY  OF  THE  NORTH-WEST  COM- 
PANY, AND  THE  NATIONAL  OBJECTS  CONNECTED  WITH  THEIR 
COMMERCE,  AS  IT  INTERESTS  THE  GOVERNMENT  OF  THE  UNITED 
STATES. 


THE  fur  trade  in  Canada,  has  always  been  considered  as  an  object 
of  the  first  importance  to  that  colony,  and  has  been  cherished  by  the 
respected  governors  of  that  province,  by  every  regulation  in  their  power, 
under  both  the  French  and  English  administrations.  The  great  and 
almost  unlimited  influence,  the  traders  of  that  country  had  acquired  over 
the  savages,  was  severely  felt,  and  will  long  be  remembered  by  the  citizens 
on  our  frontiers. 


OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.  139 

Every  attention  was  paid  bj*  the  cabinet  of  St  James  in  our  treaty 
with  Great  Britain  to  secure  to  their  Canadian  subjects  the  privilege  of 
the  Indian  trade  within  our  territories,  and  with  what  judgment  they  have 
improved  the  advantages  they  obtained,  time  will  soon  unfold. 

In  the  year  1766  the  trade  was  first  extended  from  Michillimackinac 
to  the  north-west,  by  a  few  desperate  adventurers,  whose  mode  of  life  on 
the  voyage,  and  short  residence  in  civil  society,  obtained  for  them  the 
appellation  of  Coureurs  des  Bois  From  this  trifling  beginning  arose  the 
present  North-West  Company,  who,  notwithstanding  the  repeated  attacks 
made  on  their  trade,  have  withstood  every  shock,  and  are  now,  by  the 
coalition  of  the  late  X  Y  Company,  established  on  so  firm  a  basis,  as  to 
bid  defiance  to  every  opposition  that  can  be  made  by  private  individuals. 
By  a  late  purchase  of  the  king's  posts  in  Canada,  they  extended  their  lines 
of  trade  from  Hudson's  bay  to  the  St.  Lawrence,  up  that  river  on  both 
sides  to  the  lakes,  from  thence  to  Lake  Superior,  at  which  place  the  North- 
West  Company  have  their  head-quarters;  from  thence  to  the  source  of 
Red  river,  and  on  all  its  tributary  streams,  through  the  country  to  the  Mis- 
souri, through  the  waters  of  Lake  Winipic  to  the  Saskashawin^  on  that 
river  to  its  source,  up  Elk  river  to  the  Lake  of  the  Hills;  up  Peace  river  to 
the  Rocky  Mountains;  from  the  Lake  of  the  Hills  up  Slave  river  to  the 
Slave  lake;  and  this  year  they  have  despatched  a  Mr.  Mackenzie  on  a 
voyage  of  trade  and  discovery  down  Mackenzie's  river  to  the  North  Sea, 
and  also  a  Mr.  M'Kay  to  cross  the  Rocky  Mountains  and  proceed  to  the_ 
western  ocean  with  the  same  objects.  They  have  had  a  gentleman  by  the 
name  of  Thompson,  making  a  geographical  survey  of  the  north-west  part 
of  the  continent;  who  for  three  years,  with  an  astonishing  spirit  of  enter- 
prise and  perseverance,  passed  over  all  that  extensive  and  unknown 
country.  His  establishment,  although  not  splendid,  (the  mode  of  travel- 
ling not  admitting  it)  was  such  as  to  allow  of  the  most  unlimited  expenses 
in  everything  necessary  to  facilitate  his  inquiries,  and  he  is  now  engaged 
in  digesting  the  important  results  of  his  undertaking.  I  find  from  the 
observations  and  suggestions  of  Mr.  Thompson,  that  when  at  the  source 
of  the  Mississippi,  it  was  his  opinion  the  line  of  limits  between  the  United 
States  and  Great  Britain  must  run  such  a  course  from  the  head  of  the 
Lake  of  the  Woods,  as  to  touch  the  source  of  the  Mississippi,  and  this  I 
discovered  to  be  the  opinion  of  the  North-West  Company,  who,  we  may 


I40  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

suppose,  or  reasonably  conclude,  speak  the  language  held  forth  by  their 
government.  The  admission  of  this  pretension  will  throw  out  of  our  ter- 
ritory all  the  upper  part  of  Red  river,  and  nearly  two-fifths  of  the  territory 
of  Louisiana,  whereas,  if  the  line  is  run  due  west  from  the  head  of  the 
Lake  of  the  Woods,  it  will  cross  Red  river  nearly  at  the  entrance,  and  it  is 
conjectured,  strike  the  western  ocean  at  Birch  bay  in  Queen  Charlotte 
Sound.  These  differences  of  opinion,  it  is  presumed,  might  be  easily 
adjusted  between  the  two  governments  at  the  present  day,  but  it  is 
believed  that  delays,  by  unfolding  the  true  value  of  the  country,  may  pro- 
duce difificulties  which  do  not  at  present  exist.  !  The  North-West  Company 
have  made  establishments  at  several  places  on  the  south  side  of  Lake 
Superior,  and  at  the  head  waters  of  the  Rivers  Sauteaux  and  St.  Croix, 
which  discharge  themselves  into  the  Mississiopi.  The  first  I  met  with  on 
the  voyage  up  was  at  lower  Red  Cedar  lake,  about  one  hundred  and  fifty 
miles  above  the  Isle  de  Corbeau,  being  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  river, 
and  distant  therefrom  six  miles;  it  is  situated  on  the  north  point  of  the 
lake,  and  consists  of  log  buildings  flanked  by  picketed  bastions  on  two 
right  angles.  The  next  establishment  I  met  with  was  situated  on  Sandy 
lake. 

The  fort  at  this  place  is  situated  on  the  south  side  of  the  lake  near 
the  east  end,  and  consists  of  a  stockade  of  one  hundred  feet  square  with 
bastions,  and  the  south-east  and  north-west  angles  pierced  for  small  arms. 

The  pickets  are  squared  on  the  outside,  and  round  within,  of  about 
one  foot  in  diameter,  and  are  thirteen  feet  above  ground. 

There  are  three  gates,  the  principal  one  fronts  the  lake  on  the  north, 
and  is  ten  feet  by  nine;  the  one  on  the  west,  six  feet  by  four;  the  one  on 
the  east,  six  feet  by  five:  as  you  enter  by  the  main  gate  you  have  on  the 
left  a  building  of  one  story  twenty  feet  square,  the  residence  of  the  super- 
intendent; opposite  to  this  house  on  the  left  of  the  east  gate  is  a  house 
twenty-five  feet  by  fifteen,  the  quarters  of  the  men;  on  entering  the  west 
gate  you  will  find  the  store  house  on  the  right,  thirty  feet  by  twenty,  and 
on  your  left  a  building,  forty  feet  by  twenty,  which  contains  rooms  for 
clerks,  a  work  shop  and  a  provision  store. 

On  the  west  and  north-west,  is  an  enclosure  of  about  four  acres 
picketed  in;  in  which  last  year  they  raised  four  hundred  bushels  of  potatoes, 
cultivating  no  other  vegetable;  in   this  enclosure  is  a  very  ingeniously 


OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.  141 

constructed  vault  to  contain  the  potatoes,  but  which  likewise  has  secret 
apartments  to  conceal  liquors,  dry  goods,  &c.  ^ 

Midway  between  Sandy  lake  and  Leech  lake  is  a  small  house  worthy 
of  notice.  On  the  south-west  side  of  the  latter  lake  from  the  outlet  of 
the  Mississippi,  stand  the  head  quarters  of  the  Fond  du  Lac  department. 

The  fort  is  situated  on  the  western  side  of  the  lake  in  47°  16',  13" 
north  latitude;  it  is  built  near  the  shore  on  the  declivity  of  a  rising  ground, 
having  an  enclosed  garden  of  about  five  acres  on  the  north-west.  It  is  a 
square  stockade  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet,  the  pickets  being  fifteen 
feet  in  length,  three  feet  under,  and  thirteen  above  ground,  and  are  bound 
together  by  horizontal  bars,  each  ten  feet  long;  pickets  of  ten  feet  are 
likewise  driven  into  the  ground  on  the  inside  of  the  work  opposite  the 
apertures  between  the  large  pickets.  At  the  west  and  east  angles  are 
square  bastions  pierced  for  fire  arms.  The  main  building  in  the  rear 
fronting  the  lake  is  sixty  feet  by  twenty-five,  one  and  a  half  stories  high, 
the  west  end  of  which  is  occupied  by  the  director  of  the  Fond  du  Lac 
department:  he  has  a  hall  eighteen  feet  square,  bed  room  and  kitchen, 
with  an  office.  The  centre  is  a  trading  shop  of  twelve  and  a  half  feet 
square,  with  abed  room  in  the  rear  of  the  same  dimensions,  the  east  end  is  a 
large  store,  twenty-five  feet  by  twenty,  under  which  there  is  an  ice  house  well 
filled;  the  loft  extends  over  the  whole  building,  and  contains  bales  of 
goods,  packs  of  peltries,  also  chests  containing  wild  rice;  besides  the  ice 
house,  there  are  cellars  under  all  the  other  parts  of  the  building.  The 
door  and  window  shutters  are  musket  proof. 

On  the  western  side  is  a  range  of  buildings,  fifty-four  by  eighteen 
feet,  fronting  the  parade,  the  first  end  of  which  is  a  cooper's  shop,  eighteen 
feet  by  fourteen  with  a  cellar,  adjoining  to  which  is  a  room  called  the 
Indian  hall,  (expressly  for  the  reception  of  the  Indians,  and  in  which  the 
chiefs  who  met  me  in  council  were  entertained):  in  this  hall  are  two  closed 
bunks  for  interpreters;  its  dimensions  are  twenty-two  feet  by  eighteen: 
adjoining  to  this  is  a  room,  eighteen  feet  square,  for  the  clerks,  (in  which 
my  small  party  were  quartered);  under  both  of  the  latter  rooms  are  cellars. 

On  the  eastern  side  is  a  range  of  buildings,  fifty  feet  by  eighteen, 
which  has  one  room  twenty  feet,  and  one  of  fifteen  feet,  for  qarters  for 
the  men,  also,  a  blacksmith's  shop  of  fifteen  feet,  which  is  occupied  by  an 
excellent  workman.  On  the  left  of  the  main  gate  fronting  the  river  is  a 
flag-staff  of  sixty  feet  in  height. 


142  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

They  intend  building  a  small  block-house  over  the  main  gate  fronting 
the  lake,  to  place  a  small  piece  of  artillery  in.  There  are  likewise  gates 
on  the  north  and  east  flanks  of  about  ten  feet  by  eight. 

Here  resides  the  director  of  this  department. 

This  department  brings  in  annually  forty  canoes,  and  it  appears  by  a 
calculation  made  by  a  gentleman  of  veracity  and  information,  who  has 
been  eighteen  years  in  the  Indian  trade,  and  in  the  habit  of  importing 
goods  by  Michillimackinac,  that  the  annual  amount  of  duties  would  be 
about  thirteen  thousand  dollars.  The  Lower  Red  river,  which  I  conceive 
to  be  within  our  territory,  would  yield  about  half  that  sum,  viz.,  six  thou- 
sand five  hundred,  and  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  servants,  who  import 
by  the  way  of  Lake  Winipic,  six  thousand  five  hundred  more. 

Thus  is  the  United  States  defrauded  annually  of  about  twenty-six 
thousand  dollars. 

From  my  observations,  and  information,  I  think  it  will  be  an  easy 
matter  to  prevent  the  smuggling  of  the  Fond  du  Lac  department,  by 
establishing  a  post  with  a  garrison  of  one  hundred  men,  and  an  office  of  the 
customs  near  the  mouth  of  the  River  St.  Louis,  where  the  Fond  du  Lac 
department  must  enter.  This  is  at  present  the  distributing  point  where 
the  company  have  an  establishment,  and  the  goods  on  being  received 
from  Kamanitiquia  are  embarked  for  their  different  destinations.  That 
point  also  commands  the  communication  with  Sandy  lake,  Leech  lake. 
Red  lake,  &c.  &c.  I  am  also  of  opinion,  that  the  goods  for  Red  river 
(if  it  is  within  our  boundary)  would  enter  here,  in  preference  to  being 
exposed  to  seizure.  It  is  worthy  of  remark  that  the  charter  of  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company  extends  to  all  its  waters,  and  if  the  British  govern- 
ment conceive  they  had  authority  to  make  such  a  grant,  they  certainly 
must  claim  the  country  therein  specified,  which  would  extend  far  south 
of  the  west  line  from  the  head  of  the  Lake  of  the  Woods.  The  North- 
West  Company  were  about  to  push  their  trade  down  the  Mississippi,  until 
they  should  meet  the  traders  of  Michillimackinac,  but  I  gave  them  to 
understand  this  could  not  be  permitted. 

Z.  M.  PIKE, 
First  United  States  regiment  of  Infantry. 


OF  THE-  MISSISSIPPI.  143 

Letters  referred  to  page  95. 

To  Hugh  M'Gillis,  Esq.  Proprietor  and  Agent 
of  the  North-West  Company,  established 
at  Fond  du  Lac. 

North-  West  Establishment  on  Lake  Leech,  February,  1806. 
SIR, 

AS  a  proprietor  of  the  North- West  Company,  and  director  of  the  Fond 
du  Lac  department,  I  conceive  it  my  duty  as  an  officer  of  the  United  States  (in  whose 
territory  you  are)  to  address  you  solely  on  the  subject  of  the  many  houses  under 
your  instructions.  As  a  member  of  the  greatest  commercial  nation  in  the  world,  and 
of  a  company  long  renowned  for  their  extent  of  connection  and  greatness  of  views, 
you  cannot  be  ignorant  of  the  rigour  of  the  laws  of  the  duties  of  imports  of  a  for- 
eign power. 

Mr.  Jay's  treaty,  it  is  true,  gave  the  right  of  trade  with  the  savages  to  British 
subjects  in  the  United  States  territories,  but  by  no  means  exempted  them  from  pay- 
ing the  duties,  obtaining  licences,  and  subscribing  to  all  the  rules  and  restrictions  of 
our  laws.  I  find  your  establishments  at  every  suitable  place  along  the  whole  extent 
of  the  south  side  of  Lake  Superior  to  its  head;  from  thence  to  the  source  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi, down  Red  river,  and  even  extending  to  the  centre  of  our  newly  acquired 
territory  of  Louisiana,  in  which  it  will  yet  probably  become  a  question  between  the 
two  governments  if  our  treaties  will  authorize  the  British  subjects  to  enter  into  the 
Indian  trade,  on  the  same  footing  as  in  the  other  parts  of  our  frontiers,  this  not  being 
an  integral  part  of  the  United  States  at  the  time  of  the  said  treaty.  Our  traders  to 
the  south  on  the  Lower  Mississippi  complain  to  our  government  with  justice,  that 
the  members  of  the  North-West  Company  encircle  them  on  the  frontiers  of  our  north- 
west territory,  and  trade  with  the  savages  upon  superior  terms  to  what  they  can 
afford,  who  pay  the  duties  of  their  goods  imported  from  Europe,  and  subscribe  to 
the  regulations  prescribed  by  law:  these  representations  have  at  length  attracted  the 
attention  of  our  government  to  the  object  in  question,  and  with  an  intention  to  do 
themselves  as  well  as  their  citizens  justice,  they  the  last  year  took  some  steps  to 
ascertain  the  facts,  and  make  provision  against  the  growing  evil.  With  this,  some 
geographical,  and  also  local  objects  in  view,  was  I  despatched  with  discretionary  orders, 
with  a  party  of  troops  to  the  source  of  the  Mississippi.  I  have  found,  Sir,  your  com- 
merce and  establishments  extending  beyond  our  most  exaggerated  ideas,  and  in 
addition  to  the  injury  done  our  revenue  by  the  evasion  of  the  duties,  other  acts 
which  are  more  particularly  injurious  to  the  honour  and  dignity  of  our  government. 
The  transactions  alluded  to  are  the  presenting  medals  of  his  Britannic  majesty,  and 
flags  of  his  government,  to  the  chiefs  and  warriors  resident  in  the  territory  of  the 
United  States.  If  political  subjects  are  strictly  prohibited  to  our  traders,  what  would 
be  the  ideas  of  the  executive  to  see  foreigners  making  chiefs  and  distributing  flags, 
the  standard  of  a  European  power?  The  savages  being  accustomed  to  look  on  that 
standard  which  has  been  the  only  prevailing  one  for  years,  as  that  which  alone  has 


144  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

authority  in  the  country,  it  would  not  be  in  the  least  astonishing  to  see  them  revolt 
from  the  limited  subjection  which  is  claimed  over  them  by  the  American  government, 
and  thereby  be  the  cause  of  their  receiving  chastisement,  although  necessary,  yet 
unfortunate,  as  they  have  been  led  astray  by  the  policy  of  the  traders  of  your  coun- 
try. I  must  likewise  observe.  Sir,  that  your  establishments,  if  properly  known,  would 
be  looked  on  with  an  eye  of  dissatisfaction  by  our  government,  for  another  reason, 
viz.  there  being  so  many  furnished  posts;  in  case  of  a  rupture  between  the  two 
powers,  the  English  government  would  not  fail  to  make  use  of  these  as  places  of 
deposit  for  arms,  ammunition,  &c.  to  be  distributed  to  the  savages  who  joined  their 
arms,  to  the  great  annoyance  of  our  territory,  and  the  loss  of  the  lives  of  many  of 
our  citizens.  Your  flags,  Sir,  when  hoisted  in  enclosed  works,  are  in  direet  contra- 
diction to  the  laws  of  nations,  and  their  practice  in  the  like  cases,  which  only  admits 
of  a  foreign  flag  being  expanded  on  board  of  vessels,  and  at  the  residence  of  ambas- 
sadors or  consuls. 

I  am  not  ignorant  of  the  necessity  of  your  being  in  such  a  position  as  to  protect 
you  from  the  sallies  of  drunken  savages,  or  the  more  deliberate  plans  of  the  intended 
plunderer,  and  under  these  considerations  have  I  considered  your  stockades.  You 
and  the  company  to  which  you  belong  must  be  conscious  from  the  foregoing  state- 
ment, that  strict  justice  would  demand,  and  I  assure  you  the  law  directs  under  similar 
circumstances,  a  total  confiscation  of  your  property,  personal  imprisonment,  and 
fines;  but  having  discretionary  instructions,  and  no  reason  to  think  the  conduct 
above  noticed  was  dictated  through  ill  will  or  disrespect  to  our  government,  and 
conceiving  it  in  some  degree  departing  from  the  character  of  an  officer  to  embrace 
the  first  opportunity  for  executing  those  laws,  I  am  willing  to  sacrifice  my  prospect 
of  private  advantage,  conscious  that  the  government  looks  not  to  interest  but  to  its 
dignity  in  the  transaction.  I  have  therefore  to  request  of  you  assurances  on  the  fol- 
lowing heads,  which,  setting  aside  the  chicanery  of  law,  as  gentleman  you  will 
strictly  adhere  to,  viz. .  That  you  will  make  representations  to  your  agents  at  your 
head  quarters  on  Lake  Superior,  of  the  quantity  of  goods  wanting  the  ensuing  spring 
for  your  establishment  in  the  territory  of  the  United  States,  time  sufficient,  or  as 
early  as  possible,  for  them  to  enter  them  at  the  custom  house  of  Michillimackinac, 
and  obtain  a  clearance  and  licence  to  trade  in  due  form,  and  that  you  will  give  imme- 
diate instruction  to  all  your  party  in  the  said  territory  under  your  direction,  at  no 
time  and  under  no  pretence  whatever,  to  hoist  or  suffer  to  be  hoisted  the  English 
flag.  If  you  conceive  a  flag  necessary,  you  may  make  use  of  that  of  the  United 
States,  it  is  the  only  one  which  can  be  admitted.  That  you  will  on  no  future 
occasion  present  a  flag  or  medal  to  an  Indian,  hold  councils  with  them  on  political 
subjects,  or  others  foreign  from  that  of  trade;  but  on  being  applied  toon  those  heads, 
will  refer  them  to  the  American  agents,  informing  them  that  they  are  the  only  per- 
sons authorized  to  hold  councils  of  a  political  nature  with  them.  There  are  many 
other  subjects,  such  as  the  distribution  of  liquor,  &c.,  which  would  be  too  long  to  be 
treated  of  in  detail;  but  the  company  will  do  well  to  furnish   themselves  with   our 


OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.  145 

laws,  regulating  the  commerce  with  the  savages,  and  regulate  themselves  in  our  terri- 
tories accordingly.  I  embrace  this  opportunity  to  acknowledge  myself  and  com- 
mand under  singular  obligations  to  yourself  and  agents  for  the  assistance  which  you 
have  rendered  us,  and  the  polite  treatment  with  which  I  have  been  honoured.  With 
sentiments  of  high  respect  for  the  establishment  and  yourself, 

I  am,  Sir, 

Your  most  obedient  servant, 

Z.  M.  PIKE. 


To  Lieutenant  Pike, 
First  Regiment  United  States  Infantry. 

Leech  Lake,  i^th  February,  1806. 
SIR, 

YOUR  address  presented  on  the  6th  instant,  has  attracted  my  most  serious 
consideration  to  the  several  objects  of  duties  on  importations,  of  presents  made  to, 
and  our  consultations  with  the  Indians;  of  enclosing  our  stores  and  dwelling  houses; 
and  finally,  of  the  custom  of  hoisting  the  British  flag  on  the  territory  belonging  to 
the  United  States  of  America.  I  shall  at  as  early  a  period  as  possible  present  the 
agents  of  the  North-West  Company  with  your  representations  regarding  the  pay- 
ment of  the  duties  on  the  importation  of  goods  to  be  sent  to  our  establishments 
within  the  boundaries,  of  the  territories  of  the  United  States,  as  also  their  being 
entered  at  the  custom  house  at  Michillimackinac;  but  I  beg  to  be  allowed  to  present 
for  consideration,  that  the  major  part  of  the  goods  necessary  to  be  sent  to  the  said 
establishment  for  the  trade  of  the  ensuing  winter,  are  now  actually  in  our  stores  at 
Kamanitigua,  our  head  quarters  on  Lake  Superior,  and  that  it  would  cause  us  vast 
expense  and  trouble  to  be  obliged  to  convey  those  goods  to  Michillimackinac,  to  be 
entered  at  the  custom  house  office:  we  therefore  pray  that  the  word  of  a  gentleman 
with  regard  to  the  quantity  and  quality  of  the  said  goods  to  be  sent  to  the  said  estab- 
lishment, may  be  considered  as  equivalent  to  the  certainty  of  a  custom  house 
register.  Our  intention  has  never  been  to  injure  your  traders,  paying  the  duties 
established  by  law,  and  hope  those  representations  to  your  government  respecting 
our  concerns  with  the  Indians  may  have  been  dictated  with  truth,  and  not  exagger- 
ated by  envy,  to  prejudice  our  interests,  and  throw  a  stain  upon  our  character  which 
may  require  time  to  efface  from  the  minds  of  a  people  to  whom  we  must  ever  con. 
sider  ourselves  indebted  for  the  lenity  of  procedure,  of  which  the  present  is  so  notable 
a  testimony.  The  inclosures  to  protect  our  stores  and  dwelling-houses  from  the 
insults  and  barbarity  of  savage  rudeness,  have  been  erected  for  the  security  of  my 
property  and  person,  in  a  country  till  now  exposed  to  the  wild  will  of  the  frantic 
Indians.     We  never  formed  the  smallest  idea  that  the  said  inclosures  nlight  ever  be 


146  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOURCE 

useful  in  the  event  of  a  rupture  between  the  two  powers,  nor  do  we  now  conceive 
that  such  poor  shifts  will  ever  be  employed  by  the  British  Government :  in  a  country 
overshadowed  with  wood,  so  adequate  to  every  purpose,  forts  might  in  a  short  period 
of  time  be  built  far  superior  to  any  stockades  we  may  have  occasion  to  erect. 

We  were  not  conscious,  Sir,  of  the  error  I  acknowledge  we  have  been  guilty  of, 
by  exhibiting  to  view  on  your  territories  any  standard  of  Great  Britain.  I  will 
pledge  myself  to  your  government  that  I  will  use  my  utmost  endeavours,  as  soon  as 
possible,  to  prevent  the  future  display  of  the  British  flag,  or  the  presenting  of  medals, 
or  the  exhibiting  to  public  view  any  other  mark  of  European  power,  throughout  the 
extent  of  the  territory  known  to  belong  to  the  dominion  of  the  United  States.  The 
custom  has  long  been  established,  and  we  innocently  and  inoffensively  (as  we 
imagined)  have  conformed  to  it  till  the  present  day. 

Be  persuaded  that  on  no  consideration  shall  any  Indian  be  entertained  on  polit- 
ical subjects,  or  on  any  affairs  foreign  to  our  trade,  and  reference  shall  be  made  to 
the  American  agents,  should  any  application  be  made  worthy  such  reference.  And 
be  assured  that  we,  as  a  commercial  company,  must  find  it  ever  our  interest  to  inter 
fere  as  little  as  possible  with  affairs  of  government,  in  the  course  of  trade,  ignorant  as. 
we  are  in  this  rude  and  distant  country,  of  the  political  views  of  nations. 

We  are  convinced  that  the  inestimable  advantages  arising  from  the  endeavours 
of  your  government,  to  establish  a  more  peaceful  course  of  trade  in  this  part  of  the 
territory  belonging  to  the  United  States,  are  not  acquired  through  the  mere  liberality 
of  a  nation,  and  are  ready  to  contribute  to  the  expense  necessarily  attending  them. 
We  are  not  averse  to  pay  the  common  duties  established  by  law,  and  shall  ever  be 
ready  to  conform  ourselves  to  all  rules  and  regulations  of  trade  that  may  be  estab- 
lished according  to  common  justice. 

I  beg  leave  to  be  allowed  to  say,  that  we  have  reason  to  hope  that  every  measure 
will  be  adopted  to  secure  and  facilitate  the  trade  with  the  Indians;  and  these  hopes 
seem  to  be  confirmed  beyond  the  smallest  idea  of  doubt,  when  we  see  a  man  sent 
among  us,  who,  instead  of  private  consideration  to  pecuniary  views,  prefers  the 
honour,  dignity,  and  lenity  of  his  government,  and  whose  transactions  are  in  every 
respect  so  conformable  to  equity. 

When  we  behold  an  armed  force  ready  to  chastise  or  protect,  as  necessity  or 
policy  may  direct,  we  know  not  how  to  express  our  gratitude  to  that  people  whose 
only  view  seems  to  be  to  promote  the  happiness  of  all,  the  savages  that  rove  over  the 
wild  confines  of  their  domain  not  excepted. 

It  is  to  you.  Sir,  we  feel  ourselves  most  greatly  indebted,  whose  claim  to  honour 
esteem,  and  respect  will  ever  be  held  in  high  estimation  by  myself  and  associates 
The  dangers  and  hardships  by  your  fortitude  vanquished,  and  by  your  perseverance 
overcome,  are  signal,  and  will  ever  he  preserved  in  the  annals  of  the  North-West 
Company.  Were  it  solely  from  the  consideration  of  those  who  have  exposed  their 
lives  in  a  long  and  perilous  march,  through  a  country  where  they  had  every  distress 
to  suffer,  and  many  dangers  to  expect,  (and  this  with  a  view  to  establish  peace  in  a 
savage  country,)  we  should  think  ourselves  under  the  most  strict  obligations  to  assist 


OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.  147 

them;  but  we  know  we  are  in  a  country  where  hospitality  and  gratitude  are  to  be 
esteemed  above  every  other  virtue,  and  therefore  have  offered  for  their  relief  what 
our  poor  means  can  allow. 

And,  Sir,  permit  me  to  embrace  the  opportunity  to  testify,  that  I  feel  myself 
highly  honoured  by  your  acceptance  of  such  accommodations  as  my  humble  roof 
could  afford. 

With  great  consideration  and  high  respect  for  the  government  of  the 
United  States,  allow  me  to  express  my  esteem  and  regard  for  you. 

I  am.  Sir, 

Your  most  obedient  servant,        ' 
(Signed)  H.  M'GILLIS, 

Of  the  North- West  Company. 


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V 


JOURNAL 

OF  AN 

EXPEDITION  THROUGH  THE  INTERIOR  OF  LOUISIANA, 
PERFORMED    IN  THE  YEARS  1806  AND  1807. 

ON  Tuesday,  the  15th  oi  July,  1806,  we  sailed  from  the  landing  at 
Belle  Fontaine,  about  three  o'clock,  P.  M.  in  two  boats.  Our  party 
consisted  of  two  lieutenants,  one  surgeon,  one  sergeant,  two  corporals, 
sixteen  privates,  and  one  interpreter.  We  had  also  under  our  charge 
chiefs  of  the  Osage  and  Pawnee  nations,  who,  with  a  number  of  women 
and  children,  had  been  to  Washington.  These  Indians  had  been  redeemed 
from  captivity  among  the  Potowatomies,  and  were  now  to  be  restored  to 
their  friends  at  the  Osage  towns.  The  whole  number  of  Indians  amounted 
to  fifty-one.  We  ascended  the  river  about  six  miles,  and  encamped  on  the 
southern  side  behind  an  island.  This  day  my  boat  swung  round  twice, 
once  when  we  had  a  tow-rope  on  shore,  which  it  snapped  off  in  an  instant. 
The  Indians  did  not  encamp  with  us  at  night.  Distance  advanced,  six 
miles. 

Wednesday,  \6\.h.  July — We  rejoined  our  red  brethren  at  breakfast, 
after  which  we  again  separated,  and  with  very  severe  labour  arrived  late 
in  the  evening  opposite  to  the  village  of  St.  Charles,  where  the  Indians 
joined  us.     Distance  advanced,  fifteen  miles. 

From  the  entrance  of  the  Missouri,  on  the  southern  bank,  the  land  is 
low,  until  you  arrive  at  Belle  Fontaine,  four  miles  from  its  mouth.  In  this 
distance  are  several  strata  of  soil  one  above  the  other.  As  the  river  is 
cutting  off  the  north  point  and  making  land  on  the  south,  this  part  is 
well  timbered  with  oak,  walnut,  ash,  &c.  &c.  From  Belle  Fontaine  to 
St.  Charles,  the  northern  side  of  the  Missouri  is  low,  bounded  on  its  banks 
by  timbered  land  extending  from  half  a  mile  to  a  mile  from  the  river.  On 
the  southern  side  the  bottoms  are  narrow,  the  hills  frequently  coming  in 
on  the  river.     Six  miles  below  St.  Chafles,  on  the  south,  in  front  of  a 

149 


I50  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

village  called  Florissant,  is  a  coal-hill,  or  as  it  is  termed  by  the  French,  La 
Charbonniere  ;  this  is  one  solid  stone  hill,  which  would  probably  afford 
sufficient  fuel  for  all  the  population  of  Louisiana. 

St.  Charles  is  situated  on  the  western  side  of  the  Missouri,  where  the 
hill  first  joins  the  river,  and  is  laid  out  parallel  to  the  stream.  The  main 
street  is  on  the  first  bank,  the  second  on  the  top  of  the  hill.  In  this  street 
is  situated  a  round  wood  tower,  formerly  occupied  by  the  Spaniards  as  a 
fort  or  guard-house,  but  now  converted  into  a  prison  ;  from  this  tower  you 
have  an  extensive  view  of  the  river  below.  The  town  consists  of  about 
eighty  houses,  principally  occupied  by  Indian  traders  or  their  engagees  ;  it 
is  the  seat  of  justice  for  the  district  of  St.  Charles. 

Thursday,  lyth.  July. — We  crossed  the  river  to  learn  if  any  commu- 
nications had  arrived  from  St.  Louis,  and  if  there  was  any  news  of  the 
Indian  enemies  of  the  Osages.  Called  at  Mr.  James  Morrison's,  and  was 
introduced  to  a  Mr.  Henry  (of  New  Jersey)  about  eight  and  twenty  years 
of  age ;  he  spoke  a  little  Spanish,  and  French  tolerably  well ;  he  wished  to 
go  with  me  as  a  volunteer.  From  this  place  I  wrote  letters  back  to 
Belle  Fontaine,  whilst  the  Indians  were  crossing  the  river.* 

A  man  of  the  name  of  Ramsay  reported  to  the  Indians  that  five  hun- 
dred Sacs,  lowas,  and  Reynards,  were  at  the  mouth  of  big  Manitou ;  this 
gave  them  considerable  uneasiness,  and  it  took  me  some  time  to  do  away 
the  impression  it  made  upon  them,  for  I  by  no  means  believed  it.  We 
were  about  sailing  when  my  interpreter  was  arrested  by  the  sheriffs  at  the 
suit  of  Manuel  De  Liza  for  a  debt  of  between  three  and  four  hundred  dol- 
lars, and  was  obliged  to  return  to  St.  Louis.  This  made  it  necessary  for 
me  to  write  another  letter  to  the  General.  We  encamped  about  three- 
fourths  of  a  mile  above  the  village. 

Friday,  i8th  Jtily. — Lieutenant  Wilkinson  and  Dr.  Robinson  went 
with  the  Indians  across  the  country  to  the  village  La  Charrette.  Mr. 
George  Henry  engaged  under  oath  to  accompany  me  on  my  tour. 

Wrote  to  the  Generalf  and  enclosed  him  one  of  Henry's  engage- 
ments. After  we  had  made  our  little  arrangements,  we  marched  by  land 
and  joined  the  boats  (which  had  sailed  early)  at  twelve  o'clock.  Two  of 
the  men  being  sick,  I  steered  our  boat,  and  Mr.  Henry  the  other,  by  which 
means  we  were  enabled  to  keep  employed  our  full  compliment  of  oars, 

*See  Appendix  No.  I.  f^ee  Appendix,  No.  II. 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  LOUISIANA.  151 

although  we  had  put  the  sick  men  on  shore.  Encamped  on  the  northern 
side,  about  eleven  o'clock  at  night.  A  tremendous  thunder  storm  arose, 
and  it  continued  to  blow  and  rain  with  thunder  and  lightning  until  day. 
Distance  advanced,  fifteen  miles. 

Saturday,  igthj^uly. — In  consequence  of  the  rain,  we  did  not  put  off 
until  past  nine  o'clock;  my  sick  men  marched  on  shore.  I  had  some 
reason  to  suspect  that  one  of  them  intended  never  to  join  us  again.  At 
dinner  time  the  sick  man  of  my  own  boat  came  on  board;  I  then  went  on 
board  the  other,  and  we  continued  to  run  races  all  day,  and  although  this 
boat  had  hitherto  kept  behind,  yet  I  arrived  at  the  encamping  ground 
with  her  nearly  half  an  hour  before  the  other.  The  current  not  generally 
so  strong  as  below.     Distance  advanced,  fourteen  miles. 

Sunday,  20'Ci\  July. — Embarked  about  sun-rise.  Wishing  to  ascertain 
the  temperature  of  the  water,  I  discovered  my  large  thermometer  to  be 
missing,  which  probably  had  fallen  into  the  river.  Passed  one  settlement 
on  the  northern  side,  and  after  turning  the  point  to  the  south,  saw  two 
warehouses  on  the  southern  shore.  We  encamped  in  a  long  reach,  which 
bore  north  of  west.  The  absentees  had  not  yet  joined  us.  Distance 
advanced,  fifteen  miles. 

Monday,  21st  July. — It  commenced  raining  near  day-break,  and 
continued  until  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon:  the  rain  was  immensely 
heavy,  with  thunder  and  lightning  remarkably  severe.  This  obliged  me 
to  lay  by,  for  if  we  had  proceeded  with  our  boats,  we  should  necessarily 
have  exposed  our  baggage  much  more  than  when  at  rest,  for  the  tarpaulin 
could  then  cover  all. 

We  set  sail  at  a  quarter  past  four  o'clock,  and  arrived  at  the  village 
of  La  Charrette  a  little  after  dusk.  Here  we  found  Lieutenant  Wilkinson 
and  Dr.  Robinson  with  the  Indians:  also  Baroney;  our  interpreter,  with 
letters  from  the  General  and  our  friends.  The  weather  still  continued 
cloudy,  with  rain.  We  were  received  into  the  house  of  a  Mr.  Chartron, 
and  every  accommodation  in  his  power  offered  us.  Distance  advanced, 
six  miles. 

From  St.  Charles  to  the  village  of  La  Charrette,  the  western  side'  we 
found  to  be  generally  low,  but  with  hills  running  parallel  at  a  great 
distance  from  the  river:  on  the  southern  side  more  hilly  with  springs,  scat- 


152  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

tering  settlements  seen  on  both  sides.  La  Charrette  is  the  last  settlement 
we  saw  on  the  Missouri,  although  there  is  one  above,  at  a  saline  on  the 
western  shore. 

Tuesday,  2 2d  July. — We  arranged  our  boats,  dried  our  loading,  and 
wrote  letters  for  Belle  Fontaine 

Wednesday,  2TfdJuly. — I  despatched  an  express  to  the  General  with 
advertisements  relative  to  Kennerman,  the  soldier  who  had  deserted.* 

We  embarked  after  breakfast,  and  made  good  progress.  Lieutenant 
Wilkinson  steered  one  boat,  and  I  the  other,  in  order  to  detach  all 
the  men  that  we  could  spare  on  shore  with  the  Indians.  We  crossed  to 
the  southern  side  a  little  below  Shepherd  river.  Dr.  Robinson  killed  a 
deer,  which  was  the  first  killed  by  the  party.  Distance  advanced,  thirteen 
miles. 

Thursday,  24th  Ju/y. — We  embarked  at  half  past  six  o'clock;  weather 
very  foggy.  The  Indians  proceeded  on  shore,  accompanied  by  only  three 
of  my  people.  Lieutenant  Wilkinson  being  a  little  indisposed,  I  was 
obliged  to  let  Baroney  steer  his  boat.  We  made  an  excellent  day's  prog- 
ress, and  encamped  five  miles  from  the  Gasconade  river:  killed  three  deer, 
one  bear,  and  three  turkies.  Distance  advanced,  eighteen  miles.  Only 
three  or  four  of  the  Indians  arrived;  the  others  encamped  a  small  distance 
below. 

Friday,  2^'Ca.July. — We  embarked  at  half  past  six  o'clock,  and  arrived 
at  the  entrance  of  the  Gasconade  river  at  half-past  eight  o'clock,  at  which 
place  I  determined  to  remain  the  day,  as  my  Indians  and  foot  people  were 
yet  in  the  rear,  and  had  complained  to  me  of  being  without  shoes,  leggings, 
&c.     Distance  advanced,  five  miles. 

One  of  our  Pawnees  did  not  arrive  until  late,  the  other  had  communi- 
cated his  suspicion  to  me,  that  the  Otto,  who  was  in  company,  had  killed 
him;  he  acknowledged  that  he  had  proposed  to  him  to  take  out  their  bag- 
gage, and  return  to  St.  Louis.  The  real  occasion  of  his  absence,  however, 
was  his  having  followed  a  large  fresh  trail  up  the  Gasconade  a  considerable 
distance;  but  finding  it  lead  from  the  Missouri  he  examined  it,  and  dis- 
covered horses  to  have  been  on  it;  he  then  left  it,  joined  ours  and  came  in. 

This  being  generally  the  route  taken  by  the  Potowatomies  when  they 
go  to  war  against  the  Osage,  it  occasioned  some  alarm.     Every  morning 

*S6e  Appendix,    No.  III. 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  LOUISIANA.  153 

we  were  awakened  by  the  mourning  of  the  savages,  who  commenced  cry- 
ing about  daylight,  and  continued  their  lamentation  for  the  space  of  an 
hour.  I  made  enquiry  of  my  interpreter  with  respect  to  this  practice,  and 
was  informed  that  it  was  a  custom  not  only  with  those  who  had  recently 
lost  their  relatives;  but  also  with  others,  who  recalled  to  mind  the  loss  of 
some  friend,  dead  long  since,  who  joined  the  mourners  purely  from  sym- 
pathy. They  appeared  extremely  affected,  tqars  ran  down  their  cheeks, 
and  they  sobbed  bitterly;  but  in  a  moment  they  dry  their  cheeks  and  cease 
their  cries.  Their  songs  of  grief  generally  ran  thus:  "  My  dear  father 
exists  no  longer,  have  pity  bn  me,  oh  Great  Spirit!  you  see  I  cry  for  ever; 
dry  my  tears  and  give  me  comfort."  The  warriors'  songs  are  to  the  fol- 
lowing effect:  "  Our  enemies  have  slain  my  father,  (or  mother,)  he  is  lost 
to  me  and  his  family;  I  pray  to  you,  oh  Master  of  Life!  to  preserve  me 
until  I  revenge  his  death,  and  then  do  with  me  as  Thou  pleasest." 

From  La  Charrette  to  the  Gasconade  river,  you  find  on  the  north  low 
land  heavily  timbered;  on  the  south,  hills,  rivulets,  and  a  number  of  small 
creeks,  with  very  high  cane.  The  Gasconade  is  two  hundred  yards  wide 
at  its  entrance,  and  is  navigable  at  certain  seasons  a  hundred  miles. 
At  this  time  it  was  backed  by  the  Mississippi,  but  was  clear  and  transpar- 
ent above  their  confluence.  On  the  shore  opposite  to  their  junction,  com- 
mences the  line  between  the  Sac  Indians  and  the  United  States. 

Saturday,  26th  July. — We  commenced  at  five  o'clock  to  ferry  the 
Indians  over  the  Gasconade,  and  left  the  mouth  of  this  river  at  half-past 
six  o'clock  in  the  afternoon.  We  met  here  five  Frenchmen  who  informed 
us  that  they  had  just  left  the  Osage  river,  and  that  it  was  so  low  they 
could  not  ascend  it  with  their  canoe.  We  wrote  letters  and  sent  them 
back  by  them.* 

Dr.  Robinson,  Baroney,  Sparks,  and  all  the  Indians  encamped 
about  one  league  above  us.  Killed  one  bear,  two  deer,  one  otter,  three 
turkies,  and  one  rackoon.     Distance  advanced,  fifteen  miles. 

Sunday,  27th  July. — We  embarked  at  half-past  five  o'clock,  and 
arrived  at  the  Indians'  camp  at  seven.  They  had  been  alarmed  the  day 
before,  and  in  the  evening  sent  men  back  in  the  trace,  and  some  of  the 
chiefs  sat  up  all  night  Breakfasted  with  them  about  half  past  three 
o'clock;  encamped  in  sight  of  the  Osage  river,  there  being  every  appear- 
ance of  rain.     We  halted  thus  early  in  order  to  give  the  Indians  time  to 

*  See  Appendix,  No.  IV. 


154  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

prepare  temporary  camps  and  to  secure  our  baggage.  I  went  out  to  hunt, 
and  firing  at  a  deer  near  two  of  the  Indians  who  were  in  the  woods,  they 
knew  the  difference  of  the  report  of  my  rifle  from  their  guns,  were  alarmed, 
and  immediately  retired  to  camp.     Distance  advanced,  thirteen  miles. 

Monday,  28th  July. — Embarked  at  half  past  five  o'clock,  and  at  half 
past  ten  arrived  in  the  Osage  river;  where  we  stopped,  discharged  our 
guns,  and  bathed.  We  then  proceeded  on  about  six  miles,  when  we 
waited  for  and  conveyed  the  Indians  across  to  the  western  shore;  then 
proceeded  to  the  first  island  and  encamped  on  the  west,  Sans  Oreille  and 
four  or  five  young  men  only  coming  up,  the  rest  encamping  some  dis- 
tance behind.  Killed  one  deer,  and  one  turkey:  distance  advanced,  nine- 
teen miles. 

From  the  Gasconade  to  the  entrance  of  the  Osage  river,  the  southern 
shore  of  the  Missouri  is  hilly,  but  well  timbered.  On  the  north  are  low 
bottoms  and  heavy  timber.  In  the  whole  of  this  space  of  the  Missouri, 
from  its  entrance  to  the  Osage  river,  we  find  it  well  timbered,  the  shores 
consisting  of  a  rich  soil,  and  very  proper  for  the  cultivation  of  all  the  pro- 
ductions of  our  middle  and  western  States.  It  is  timbered  generally  with 
cotton  wood,  ash,  oak,  pecan,  hickory,  with  some  elms;  but  the  cotton 
wood  predominates  on  all  the  made  bottoms. 

Tuesday,  29th  July. — All  the  Indians  arrived  very  early,  and  the  Big 
Soldier,  whom  I  had  appointed  the  officer  to  regulate  the  march,  was  much 
displeased  that  Sans  Oreille  and  the  others  had  left  him,  and  said  that  for 
that  reason  he  would  not  suffer  any  woman  to  go  in  the  boat,  and  would 
thus  separate  the  party;  but  in  truth  it  was  from  jealousy  of  the  men 
whose  women  went  in  the  boat.  He  began  by  flogging  one  of  the  young 
men,  and  was  about  to  strike  Sans  Oreille's  wife,  but  was  prevented  by 
him  and  told  that  he  knew  he  had  done  wrong,  but  that  the  women  were 
innocent.  We  then  conveyed  them  over  and  embarked  at  half  past  eight 
o'clock.  About  twelve  o'clock nve  found  the  Indians  rafting  the  river,  when 
the  first  chief  of  the  little  Osage,  called  Tuttasuggy,  (or  The  Wind,)  told 
me  that  the  man  whom  the  Big  Soldier  struck  had  not  yet  arrived  with  his 
wife.  "But  that  he  would  throw  them  away."  As  I  knew  he  was 
extremely  mortified  at  the  dissensions  which  appeared  to  reign  amongst 
them,  I  told  him  by  no  means,  that  one  of  my  boats  should  wait  for  the 
woman  and  her  child,  but  that  the  man  might  go  to  the  devil  as  a  punish- 
ment for  his  insubordination. 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  LOUISIANA.  155 

I  then  left  Baroney  with  one  boat  and  proceeded  with  the  other.  We 
were  called  ashore  by  three  young  Indians,  who  had  killed  some  deer,  and 
on  putting  them  aboard  I  gave  them  about  one  or  two  gills  of  whiskey, 
which  intoxicated  them  all.  It  commenced  raining  about  one  o'clock,  and 
continued  incessantly  for  three  hours,  which  obliged  us  to  stop  and 
encamp.  One  of  our  men  (Millar)  lost  himself,  and  did  not  arrive  until 
after  dark.  Killed  five  deer,  one  turkey,  and  one  rackoon.  Distance 
advanced,  fourteen  miles. 

Wednesday,  30th  y«/y. — After  the  fog  dispersed,  I  left  Lieutenant 
Wilkinson  with  the  party  to  dry  the  baggage,  and  I  went  out  with  Dr. 
Robinson  and  Bradley.  About  two  o'clock  we  returned,  set  sail,  and  hav- 
ing passed  the  first  rapid  about  three  miles,  encamped  on  the  eastern 
shore.     Killed  three  deer.     Distance  advanced,  five  miles. 

Thursday,  ■^^■sXjuly. — We  embarked  early,  and  passed  several  rapids 
pretty  well.  Dined  with  the  Indians;  two  of  them  left  us  in  the  morning 
for  the  village,  and  they  all  had  an  idea  of  doing  the  same,  but  finally  con- 
cluded otherwise.  One  of  the  Osage,  who  had  left  the  party  for  the  vil- 
lage, returned,  and  reported  that  he  had  seen  and  heard  strange  Indians 
in  the  woods ;  this  we  considered  as  merely  a  pretext  to  come  back.  I 
this  day  lost  my  dog  and  the  misfortune  was  the  greater,  as  we  had  no 
other  that  would  bring  any  thing  out  of  the  water ;  this  was  the  dog  Mr. 
Fisher  presented  to  me  at  Prairie  des  Chiens.  Killed  three  deer,  and  one 
turkey.     Distance  advanced,  eighteen  miles. 

Friday,  jst  August. — It  having  rained  all  night,  the  river  appeared 
to  have  risen  about  six  inches.  We  spread  out  our  baggage  to  dry,  but  it 
continuing  to  rain  by  intervals  all  day,  the  things  were  wetter  at  sun-down 
than  in  the  morning ;  we  rolled  them  up  and  left  them  on  the  beach.  We 
sent  out  two  hunters  in  the  morning,  one  of  whom  killed  three  deer:  the 
Indians  killed  three  more. 

Sahtrday,  2d  August. — The  weather  cleared  up  ;  the  loading  being 
spread  out  to  dry.  Dr.  Robinson,  myself,  Bradley,  Sparks  and  Brown, 
went  out  to  hunt;  we  killed  four  deer,  and  the  Indians  two.  Having 
reloaded  the  boats  we  embarked  at  five  o'clock,  and  proceeded  about  two 
miles.     The  river  rose  in  the  last  twenty-four  hours  four  inches. 

Sunday,  3d  August. — Embarked  early,  and  wishing  to  save  the  fresh 
I  pushed  hard  all  day.     Sparks  was  lost  and  did  not  join    us  until    night. 


156  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

We  encamped  about  twenty-five  paces  from  the  river  on  a  sand-bar.  Near 
daylight  I  heard  the  sentry  observe  that  the  boats  had  better  be  brought 
in;  when  I  got  up  I  found  the  water  within  a  rod  of  our  tent,  and  before 
we  could  get  all  our  things  out  it  had  reached  the  tent.  Distance  advanced, 
eighteen  miles.     Killed  nine  deer,  one  wild  cat,  one  goose,  and  one  turkey. 

Monday,  4th  Atigust. — We  embarked  early,  and  continued  on  for 
some  time,  not  being  able  to  find  a  suitable  place  to  dry  our  things;  but 
at  length  stopped  on  the  eastern  shore.  Here  we  had  to  ferry  the  Indians 
over  a  small  channel  which  we  did  not  before  observe ;  all  of  them  how- 
ever not  arriving  we  put  off,  and  continued  our  route.  Finding  our  prog- 
ress much  impeded  by  our  mast  I  unshipped  it,  and  stripped  it  of  its  iron, 
and  after  Lieutenant  W^Ilkinson  had  carved  our  names  on  it,  set  it  adrift 
followed  by  the  yards ;  this  mast  had  been  cut  and  made  at  Pine  Creek, 
on  the  Upper  Mississippi. 

After  proceeding  some  miles,  we  found  the  Indians  on  the  western 
shore,  they  having  rafted  the  river  ;  we  stopped  for  them  to  cook,  after 
which  we  proceeded.  The  navigation  had  become  very  difficult  from  the 
rapidity  of  the  current,  occasioned  by  the  rise  of  the  water,  which  rose  one 
foot  in  an  hour  :  killed  two  deer.  Distance  advanced,  ten  miles ;  weather 
rainy. 

Tuesday,  5th  AtigusL — We  layby  this  day,in  order  to  give  the  Indian^ 
an  opportunity  to  dry  their  baggage.  Dr.  Robinson  and  myself,  accom- 
panied by  Mr.  Henry,  went  out  to  hunt;  we  lost  the  latter  about  two  miles 
from  camp  :  after  hunting  some  time  on  the  western  shore,  we  concluded 
to  raft  the  river,  which  we  effected  with  difficulty  and  danger,  and  hunted 
for  some  time,  but  without  success :  we  then  returned  to  the  party,  and 
found  Mr.  Henry  had  arrived  one  hour  before  us  ;  he  had  met  one  of 
the  soldiers,  who  brought  him  in.  To-day,  in  our  tour,  I  passed  over  a 
remarkably  large  rattle-snake  as  he  lay  coiled  up,  and  trod  so  near  as 
to  touch  it  with  my  foot,  it  drawing  itself  up  to  make  room  for  my  heel ; 
Dr.  Robinson,  who  followed  me,  was  on  the  point  of  treading  on  it, 
but  by  a  spring  avoided  it:  I  then  turned  round  and  touched  it  with 
my  ram-rod,  but  it  shewed  no  disposition  to  bite,  and  appeared  quite 
peaceable  :  the  gratitude  which  I  felt  towards  it  for  not  having  bitten 
me,  induced  me  to  save  its  life.  Killed  four  deer :  river  risen  thirteen 
inches;  rain  continued. 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  LOUISIANA.  157 

Wednesday,  6th  August. — We  embarked  at  half  past  eight  o'clock, 
the  weather  having  cleared,  and  presenting  the  appearance  of  a  fine 
day.  Passed  Gravel  river,  on  the  west ;  about  three  miles  above  this 
river,  the  Indians  left  us  and  informed  me  that  by  keeping  a  little  to 
the  south  or  west,  they  would  make  iri  fifteen  miles  what  would  be  at 
least  thirty-five  miles  for  us  along  the  course  of  the  river.  Dr.  Robin- 
son, Mr.  Henry,  and  Sergeant  Ballenger  accompanied  them.  Killed  two 
deer.     Distance  advanced,  thirteen  miles. 

From  the  entrance  of  the  Osage  river  to  the  Gravel  river,  a  distance 
of  one  hundred  and  eighteen  miles,  the  banks  of  the  former  are  covered 
with  timber,  and  consist  of  a  very  rich  soil.  Small  hills  with  rocks  alter- 
nately border  the  eastern  and  western  shores:  the  bottoms  oeing  very 
excellent  soil  and  the  country  abounding  in  game. 

Thursday,  7th  AugusL — Not  being  detained  by  the  Indians  we  were 
for  once  enabled  to  embark  at  a  quarter  past  five  o'clock.  The  river  having 
subsided  since  yesterday  morning  about  four  feet,  we  wished  to  improve 
every  moment  of  time  previously  to  its  entire  fall.  We  proceeded 
extremely  well,  passed  the  Saline  river  on  the  east,  and  encamped  opposite 
La  Belle  Roche  on  the  western  shore.  This  day  we  passed  many  beauti- 
ful cliffs  on  both  sides:  saw  a  bear  and  a  wolf  swimming  the  river.  I 
employed  myself  part  of  the  day  in  translating  into  French  a  talk  of 
Lieutenant  Wilkinson's  to  the  Cheveu  Blanc.  Distance  advanced,  twentyr 
one  miles. 

Friday,  8th  August. — We  embarked  twenty  minutes  past  five  o'clock; 
found  the  river  had  fallen  about  two  feet  during  the  night.  At  the  con- 
fluence of  the  Yungar  with  the  Osage  river  we  breakfasted;  encamped  at 
night  on  a  bar.     Distance  advanced,  twenty-one  and  a  half  miles. 

From  the  Gravel  river  to  the  Yungar  the  Osage  continues  to  exhibit 
the  appearance  of  a  rich,  well  timbered  country.  The  Yungar  (or  Ne- 
hem-gar)  as  termed  by  the  Indians,  derives  its  name  from  the  vast  number 
of  springs  at  its  source:  it  is  supposed  to  be  nearly  as  extensive  as  the 
Osage  river;  is  navigable  for  canoes  one  hundred  miles,  and  is  cele- 
brated for  the  abundance  of  bears  which  are  found  on  its  branches.  The 
Chasseurs  du  Bois  of  Louisiana  hunt  on  it;  they  consist  of  Osage  and 
Creeks,  (or  Muskogees)  a  wandering  party  of  whom  have  established 
themselves  in  Louisiana,  between  whom  and  the  French  hunters  frequent 
skirmishes  have  passed  on  the  head  of  this  river. 


158  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

Saturday,  9th  August. — We  embarked  at  five  o'clock,  and  at  half 

past  six  met  the  Indians  and  our  gentlemen.     They  had  met  with  nothing 

extraordinary:  they  had  killed  in  their  excursion  seven  deer  and   three 

'  bears.     We  proceeded  to  an  old  wintering  ground,  where  there  were  eight 

houses,  which  were  occupied  last  winter  by ,  who  had  not  been 

able  to  proceed  any  higher  for  want  of  water.  Passed  the  Old  Man's 
rapid,  below  which,  on  the  western  shore,  are  some  beautiful  cliffs.  Dined 
with  the  Indians,  after  which  we  passed  Upper  Gravel  river  on  the  west; 
Potatoe  river  on  the  east.  Sparks  went  out  to  hunt  and  did  not  arrive 
at  our  encampment,  nor  did  the  Indians.  Distance  advanced,  twenty-five 
miles. 

Sunday,  loth  August. — Embarked  at  quarter  past  five  o'clock,  when 
the  sun  shone  out  very  clearly,  but  in  fifteen  minutes  it  began  to  rain,  and 
continued  to  rain  very  hard  until  one  o'clock.  Passed  the  Indians,  who 
were  encamped  on  the  western  shore,  about  half  a  mile  from  the  river, 
and  halted  for  them;  they  all  forded  the  river  except  Sans  Oreille,  who 
brought  his  wife  up  to  the  boats,  and  informed  me  that  Sparks  had 
encamped  with  them,  but  had  left  them  to  return  in  search  of  us.  We 
proceeded  after  breakfast:  Sparks  arrived  just  at  the  moment  we  were 
embarking. 

The  Indians  traversing  the  country  on  the  east,  had  sent  Sparks  with 
Sans  Oreille.  About  two  o'clock,  A.  M.  split  a  plank  in  the  bottom  of 
the  batteau,  unloaded  and  turned  her  up;  repaired  the  breach,  and  con- 
tinued on  the  route.  By  four  o'clock  found  the  Indians  behind  a  large 
island;  we  made  no  stop  and  they  followed  us.  We  encamped  together 
on  a  bar;  where  we  proposed  halting  to  dry  our  corn,  &c.  Killed  four 
deer:  distance  advanced,  eighteen  and  a  half  miles. 

Monday,  i  ith  August. — We  remained  here  to  dry  our  corn  and  bag- 
gage. This  morning  we  had  a  match  at  shooting  :  the  prize  offered  to  the 
successful  person  was  a  jacket  and  a  twist  of  tobacco,  which  I  myself  was 
so  fortunate  as  to  win ;  I  made  the  articles,  however,  a  present  to  the 
young  fellow  who  waited  on  me.  After  this,  taking  Huddleson  with  me, 
I  went  out  to  hunt.  Having  travelled  about  twelve  miles,  we  arrived  at 
the  river  almost  exhausted  with  thirst:  I  here  indulged  myself  by  drinking 
plentifully  of  the  water,  and  was  rendered  so  extremely  unwell  by  it,  that 
I  was  scarcely  capable  of  pursuing  my  route  to  the   camp.     On  arriving 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  LOUISIANA.  159 

opposite  to  it,  I  swam  the  river,  from  which  I  experienced  considerable 
relief.  The  party  informed  me  that  they  had  found  the  heat  oppres- 
sive, and  the  mercury  at  sun-down  was  at  25"  Reaumeur.  This  day  I  saw 
trout  for  the  first  time  west  of  the  Alleghany  Mountains.  Reloaded  our 
boats,  and  finished  two  new  oars  which  were  wanted. 

Tuesday,  \2\}a.  August. — Previously  to  our  embarkation,  which  took 
place  at  half  past  five  o'clock,  I  was  obliged  to  convince  my  red  brethren, 
that,  if  I  protected  them,  I  would  not  suffer  them  to  plunder  my  men  with 
impunity :  for  the  chief  had  got  one  of  my  lads'  fur  cap  attached  to  his 
baggage,  and  notwithstanding  it  was  marked  with  the  initials  of  the  sol- 
dier's name  he  refused  to  give  it  up  ;  on  which  I  requested  the  interpreter 
to  tell  him,  "  that  I  had  no  idea  that  he  had  purloined  it,  but  supposed 
some  other  person  had  attached  it  to  his  baggage  ;  but  that  knowing  it  to 
be  my  soldier's  I  requested  him  to  deliver  it  up,  or  I  should  be  obliged  to 
take  other  measures  to  obtain  it."  This  had  the  desired  effect,  or  I  cer- 
tainly should  have  put  my  threats  into  execution,  from  this  principle, 
formed  by  experience  during  my  intercourse  with  Indians,  that  if  you  have 
justice  on  your  side,  and  do  not  enforce  it,  they  universally  despise  you. 

When  we  stopped  for  dinner  one  of  my  men  took  his  gun  and  went 
out :  not  having  returned  when  we  were  ready  to  re-embark,  I  left  him. 
Passed  the  Indians  twice  when  they  were  crossing  the  river.  Passed  some 
very  beautiful  cliffs  on  the  western  shore  ;  also,  Vermillion  and  Grand 
rivers,  the  latter  of  which  is  a  large  stream. 

Immediately  after  encamping,  a  thunder-squall  came  on,  which  blew 
overboard  my  flag-staff  and  a  number  of  articles  of  my  clothing,  which 
were  on  the  top  of  the  cabin,  and  sunk  them  immediately.  Being  much 
fatigued,  and  the  bank  difficult  of  ascent,  I  lay  down  in  the  cabin  without 
supper,  and  slept  all  night :  it  continued  to  rain.  The  man  I  left  on  shore 
arrived  on  the  opposite  bank  in  the  night,  having  killed  two  deer,  but  was 
obliged  to  leave  the  largest  behind ;  finding  he  was  not  to  be  sent  for,  he 
concealed  his  gun  and  deer  and  swam  the  river.  Distance  advanced 
twenty-four  miles. 

Wednesday,  13th  August. — It  continued  to  rain.  In  the  morning  sent 
a  boat  over  for  Sparks's  gun  and  deer.  Embarked  at  half  past  nine  o'clock. 
Stopped  to  dine  at  two  :  during  the  time  we  halted,  the  river  rose  over 


i6o  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

the  flat  bar  on  which  we  were  ;  this,  if  we  had  no  other  proof,  would  con- 
vince us  we  were  near  the  head  of  the  river,  as  the  rain  must  have  reached 
it.  We  made  almost  a  perfect  circle,  so  that  at  night  I  do  not  believe  we 
were  three  miles  from  where  we  encamped  last  night.  This  day  for  the 
first  time  we  saw  prairie  hills.     Distance  advanced,  thirteen  miles. 

Thursday,  14th  Augiist. — Embarked  at  half  past  five  o'clock;  passed 
the  park,  which  is  ten  miles  round,  and  not  more  than  three-quarters  of  a 
mile  across,  bearing  from  S.  5^  E.  to  due  N.  At  its  head  we  breakfasted, 
and  just  as  we  were  about  to  put  off,  we  saw  and  brought  to  a   canoe, 

manned  with  three  engagees  of  Mr. ,  who  informed  us  that  the 

Little  Osage  had  marched  a  war  party  against  the  Kanses,  and  the  Grand 
Osage  a  party  against  our  citizens  on  the  Arkansaw  river.  Wrote  by 
them  to  the  General  and  all  friends.* 

Gave  the  poor  fellows  some  whiskey  and  eight  quarts  of  corn,  they 
having  had  only  two  turkies  for  four  days.  We  left  them  and  proceeded 
very  well  in  the  afternoon,  and  encamped  on  an  island  above  Turkey 
island.     Distance  advanced,  twenty-eight  miles. 

Shortly  after  we  left  the  Yungar  river,  the  Osage  became  narrower, 
and  evidently  shewed  the  diminution  occasioned  by  the  loss  of  the  waters 
of  the  former  stream.  On  the  eastern  shore  is  a  pond  of  water  about 
twenty  paces  from  the  bank,  half  a  mile  in  circumference;  it  is  elevated  at 
least  twenty  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  river:  this  appeared  the  more 
singular,  as  the  soil  seemed  to  be  sandy,  whence  it  might  be  concluded 
that  the  water  of  the  pond  would  speedily  discharge  through  the  soil  into 
the  river;  but  there  appeared  to  be  no  reason  for  any  such  deduction. 
From  hence  to  a  few  miles  below  the  park,  the  banks  of  the  river  continued 
as  usual.  We  now,  for  the  first  time,  were  entertained  with  the  sight  of 
prairie  land,  but  it  was  still  interspersed  with  clumps  of  wood  land,  which 
diversified  the  prospect.  In  this  district  the  cliffs,  which  generally  bor_ 
dered  one  of  the  sides  of  the  river,  were  covered  with  the  largest  and  most 
beautiful  cedars  I  ever  beheld. 

Friday,  15th  August. — We  embarked  at  five  o'clock,  and  at  eight  met 
the  Indians  and  the  gentlemen  who  accompanied  them;  found  all  well:  they 
had  been  joined  by  their  friends  and  relatives  from  the  villag^e,  with  horses 
to  transport  their  baggage.     Lieutenant  Wilkinson  informed  me  that  their 

*  See  Appendix,  No.  V. 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  LOUISIANA.  i6i 

meeting  was  very  tender  and  affectionate.  "Wives  throwing  themselves 
into  the  arms  of  their  husbands;  parents  embracing  their  children,  and 
children  their  parents;  brothers  and  sisters  meeting,  one  from  captivity, 
the  others  froiA  the  towns;  at  the  same  time  returning  thanks  to  the  good 
God  for  having  brought  them  once  more  together."  In  short,  the  ^ou^ 
ensemble  was  such  as  might  have  made  polished  society  blush,  when  com- 
pared with  these  savages,  in  whom  the  passions  of  the  mind,  either  joy, 
grief,  fear,  anger,  or  revenge,  have  their  full  scope.  Why  can  we  not  cor- 
rect the  baneful  passions,  without  weakening  the  good?  Sans  Oreille 
made  them  a  speech,  in  which  he  remarked,  "  Osage,  you  now  see  your 
wives,  your  brothers,  your  daughters,  your  sons,  redeemed  from  captivity. 
Who  did  this?  Were  they  the  Spaniards?  No!  The  French?  No! 
Had  either  of  those  people  been  governors  of  the  country,  your  relatives 
might  have  rotted  in  captivity,  and  you  never  would  have  seen  them  more. 
But  the  Americans  stretched  forth  their  hands,  and  they  are  restored  to 
you!  What  can  you  do  in  return  for  all  this  goodness?  Nothing.  All 
your  lives  would  not  suffice  to  repay  their  bounty."  This  man  had  children 
in  captivity,  not  one  of  whom  were  we  able  to  obtain  for  him! 

The  chiefs  then  requested  that  Lieutenant  Wilkinson  and  Dr.  Robin- 
son might  be  permitted  to  accompany  them  by  land,  which  I  consented 
to.  Wrote  a  letter  to  the  Cheveu  Blanc  by  Mr.  Wilkinson.  When  we 
parted  (after  delivering  the  Indians  their  baggage)  Sans  Oreille  put  an 
Indian  on  board  to  hunt,  or  obey  any  other  commands  I  might  have  for 
him.  We  stopped  at  eleven  o'clock  to  dry  our  baggage;  found  our  biscuit 
and  crackers  almost  all  ruined.  Put  off  at  half  past  four  o'clock,  and 
encamped  at  three  quarters  past  five.  Distance  advanced,  fifteen  and  a 
half  miles. 

Saturday,  i6th  August. — We  embarked  at  five  o'clock,  and  proceeded 
extremely  well  in  the  barge  to  a  French  hunting  camp  (evacuated)  twelve 
miles  to  breakfast:  the  batteau  coming  up  late,  we  exchanged  hands. 
About  twelve  o'clock  passed  the  Grand  Fork,  which  is  equal  in  size  to  the 
branch  of  the  river  on  which  we  pursued  our  route.  Waited  to  dine  at 
the  rocks  called  the  Swallow's  Nest  on  the  western  shore,  above  the 
Forks.  The  batteau  having  gained  nearly  half  an  hour,  the  crews  are 
convinced  that  it  is  not  the  boat  but  the  men  who  make  the  difference. 
Each  took  their  own  boat,  after  which  we  proceeded  very  well,  the  water 


i62  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

being  good  and  the  men  in  spirits.  Saw  one  elk  on  the  shore,  also  met 
an  old  man  alone  hunting,  from  whom  we  obtained  no  information  of 
consequence  Encamped  on  the  western  shore  at  Mine  river:  passed  the 
place  where  the  chief  called  the  Belle  Oiseau  and  others  were  killed.* 
Distance  advanced,  thirty-seven  miles. 

Sunday,  i^iSx  August. — We  embarked  at  five  o'clock,  and  proceeded 
twelve  miles  to  breakfast ;  at  four  o'clock  arrived  at  ten  French  houses  on 
the  eastern  shore,  where  then  resided  a  Sac,  who  was  married  to  an  Osage 
woman,  and  spoke  French  only.  We  afterwards  passed  the  position 
where  Mr.  Chouteau  formerly  had  his  fort,  not  a  vestige  of  which  was 
remaining;  the  spot  being  only  marked  by  the  superior  growth  of  vegeta- 
tion. Here  the  river  bank  is  one  solid  bed  of  stone  coal;  just  below  which 
is  a  very  shoal  and  rapid  ripple.  From  hence  to  the  village  of  the  Grand 
Osage  the  distance  is  nine  miles  across  a  large  prairie,  but  by  water  fifty. 
We  came  about  two  miles  above,  and  encamped  on  the  western  shore. 
This  day  the  river  has  been  generally  bounded  by  prairies  on  both  sides. 
Distance  advanced  forty-one  and  a  half  miles. 

Monday,  i8th  August. — We  put  off  at  half  past  five  o'clock.  Stopped 
at  nine  o'clock  to  breakfast.  Passed  the  second  fork  of  the  river  at 
twelve  o'clock,  the  right  hand  fork  bearing  north,  about  thirty  yards  wide, 
the  left  (the  one  we  pursued)  N.  60°  W.  and  not  more  than  fifty  or  sixty 
feet  in  width,  very  full  of  old  trees,  &c.,  but  having  plenty  of  water. 
Observed  the  road  where  the  chiefs  and  Lieutenant  Wilkinson  had  crossed. 
We  proceeded  till  one  o'clock,  when  we  were  halted  by  a  large  drift  quite 
across  the  river.  Despatched  Baroney  to  the  village  of  the  Grand  Osage, 
to  procure  horses  to  take  our  baggage  nearer  to  the  towns.  Unloaded 
our  boats,  and  in  about  two  hours  Lieutenant  Wilkinson  with  Tattassuggy 
arrived  at  our  camp:    the  former  of  whom  presented  me  with  an  express 

*  The  Belle  Oiseau  was  killed  by  the  Sacs  in  the  year  1804,  in  a  boat  of  Manuel 
de  Liza,  when  on  his  way  down  to  St.  Louis,  in  order  to  join  the  first  deputation  of 
his  nation,  who  were  forwarded  to  the  seat  of  government  by  Governor  Lewis.  A 
particular  relation  of  the  event  has  no  doubt  been  given  by  that  gentleman.  This 
chief  had  a  son  who  accompanied  me  to  the  Pawnee  nation,  who  for  his  honourable 
deportment,  attachment  to  our  government,  amiableness  of  disposition,  and  the 
respect  and  esteem  with  which  he  was  held  by  his  compeers,  is  entitled  to  the  atten- 
tion of  our  agents  to  his  nation. 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  LOUISIANA.  163 

from  the  General,*  and  letters  from  my  friends.  The  chiefs  remained  at 
our  camp  all  night.  I  was  attacked  by  a  violent  head-ache.  It  com- 
menced raining,  and  continued  with  great  force  until  day.  Distance 
advanced,  nineteen  miles  and  a  quarter. 

Tuesday,  19th  August. — We  commenced  very  early  to  arrange  our 
baggage,  but  had  not  finished  at  one  o'clock,  when  the  chief  of  the  Grand 
Osage  and  forty  or  fifty  men  of  his  village  arrived  with  horses.  We 
loaded  and  took  our  departure  for  the  place  where  Manuel  de  Liza  had  his 
establishment,  at  which  we  arrived  about  four  o'clock,  and  commenced 
pitching  our  encampment  near  the  edge  of  the  prairie.  I  was  here 
informed  that  three  men  had  arrived  from  St.  Louis,  sent  by  Manuel  de 
Liza:  I  despatched  Lieutenant  Wilkinson  to  the  village  with  Baroney,  who 
brought  to  camp  the  man  who  had  charge  of  the  others  from  St.  Louis  ;  he 
having  no  passport,  I  detained  him  for  farther  consideration. 

Our  reception  by  the  Osage  was  flattering,  and  particularly  by  the 
Cheveu  Blanc  or  White  Hair,  and  our  fellow  travellers.  This  evening 
there  arrived  in  the  village  of  the  Grand  Osage  an  express  from  the  Ark- 
ansaw ;  who  brought  intelligence,  that  a  boat  ascending  that  river  had  been 
fired  on,  and  had  had  two  white  men  killed  and  two  wounded,  and  that 
the  brother-in-law  of  the  Cheveu  Blanc,  who  happened  to  be  on  board, 
was  also  killed.     This  put  the  whole  village  in  mourning. 

Wednesday,  20th  August. — About  twelve  o'clock  I  despatched  Baro- 
ney for  the  chiefs  of  the  Grand  village,  in  order  to  give  the  General's 
parole  to  the  Cheveu  Blanc;  also  a  young  man  to  the  village  of  the  Little 
Osage.  The  Cheveu  Blanc  and  his  people  arrived  about  three  o'clock, 
and  after  waiting  some  time  for  The  Wind  and  his  people,  I  just  informed 
the  chiefs  that  I  had  merely  assembled  them  to  deliver  the  parole  of  the 
General,  and  present  marks  of  distinction  intended  for  the  Cheveu 
Blanc  and  his  son;  at  the  same  time  hanging  a  grand  medal  round  the 
neck  of  the  latter.  The  packets  committed  to  my  charge  for  the  relations 
of  the  deceased  Osages  were  then  delivered  to  them;  the  widows  making 
the  distribution.  It  must  be  remarked,  that  I  had  merely  requested  the 
Cheveu  Blanc  to  come  with  his  son  and  receive  the  General's  message; 
but  instead  of  coming  with  a  few  chiefs,  he  was  accompanied  by  one  hun- 
dred and  eighty-six  men,  to  all  of  whom  we  are  obliged  to  give  something 

*See  Appendix,  No  VI, 


i64  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

to  drink.  When  the  council  was  over  we  mounted  our  horses  and  rode  to 
the  village:  I  halted  at  the  quarters  of  the  chief,  where  We  were  regaled 
with  boiled  pumpkins;  we  then  went  to  two  different  houses,  and  were 
invited  to  many  others,  but  declined,  promising  to  pay  them  a  visit  pre- 
vious to  my  departure  and  to  spend  the  whole  day  with  them;  we  then 
returned  to  camp.  After  enquiring  of  the  Cheveu  Blanc  if  the  men  of 
Manuel  de  Liza  had  any  ostensible  object  in  view,  he  informed  me  that 
they  had  only  said  to  him  that  they  expected  Manuel  would  be  up  to  trade 
in  the  autumn.  I  concluded  to  take  the  deposition  of  Babtiste  Larme  as 
to  the  manner  in  which  he  was  employed  by  Manuel  dc  Liza,  and  forward 
the  same  to  Dr.  Brown  and  the  Attorney-General  of  Louisiana,  and  per- 
mitted the  men  to  return  to  St.  Louis,  as  it  was  impossible  for  me  to 
detach  a  party  with  them  as  prisoners. 

Thursday,  21st  Atcgiist. — In  the  morning  the  Cheveu  Blanc  paid  us  a 
visit,  and  brought  a  present  of  corn,  meal,  and  grease:  we  invited  him,  his 
son,  and  son-in-law  to  breakfast  with  us,  and  gave  his  companions  some- 
thing to  eat.  I  then  wrote  a  number  of  letters  to  send  by  express,  and 
enclosed  the  deposition  of  Larme.  In  the  afternoon  we  rode  to  the  vil- 
lage of  the  Little  Osage,  and  were  received  by  our  fellow  travellers  with 
true  hospitality.  Returned  in  the  evening,  when  a  tremendous  storm  of 
rain,  thunder,  and  lightning  commenced,  and  continued  with  extraordinary 
violence  until  half-past  nine  o'clock.  It  was  with  great  difficulty  we  were 
enabled  to  keep  our  tents  from  blowing  down.  The  place  prepared  for 
an  observatory  was  carried  away. 

Friday,  226.  Augusi. — Preparing  in  the  morning  for  the  council,  and 
committing  to  paper  the  heads  of  the  subjects  on  which  I  intended  to 
speak.  The  chiefs  of  the  Little  Osage  arrived  about  one  o'clock;  also 
the  interpreter  of  the  Grand  Osage,  who  pretended  to  say  that  the 
Grand  Osage  had  expected  us  at  their  village  with  the  Little  Osage. 
The  Cheveu  Blanc  arrived  with  his  chiefs.  The  ceremony  of  the  council 
being  arranged,  I  delivered  them  the  General's /art*/?  which  I  had  received 
by  express.  My  reason  for  not  delivering  it  until  this  time  was  that  I 
might  have  the  two  villages  together,  as  it  equally  concerned  both. 
After  this  I  explained  at  large  the  will,  wishes,  and  advice  of  their 
Great  Father;  and  the  mode  which  I  conceived  to  be  the  most  proper 
for  carrying  them  into  effect.     The  Cheveu  Blanc  replied  in  a  few  words, 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  LOUISIANA.  165 

and  promised  to  give  me  a  full  answer  to-morrow:  The  Wind  spoke  to 
the  same  purport.  After  which  the  Cheveu  Blanc  addressed  himself  to 
The  Wind  as  follows:  "I  am  shocked  at  your  conduct  Tuttassuggy,  you 
who  have  lately  come  from  the  States,  and  should  have  been  wise;  but  you 
led  the  redeemed  captives,  with  an  officer  of  the  United  States,  to  your 
village,  instead  of  bringing  them  through  my  town  in  the  first  instance."  To 
this  The  Wind  made  no  reply,  but  left  his  seat  shortly  after,  under  pre- 
tence of  giving  some  orders  to  his  young  men.  I  conceived  this  reprimand 
intended  barely  to  show  us  the  superiority  of  the  one,  and  inferiority  of 
the  other;  and  to  have  originated  from  an  altercation  of  Lieutenant  Wil- 
kinson with  the  Cheveu  Blanc,  in  which  allusions  were  made  by  the  former, 
to  the  more  friendly  conduct  of  the  Little  Chief  (or  The  Wind)  when  com- 
pared with  that  of  the  latter. 

I  must  here  observe,  that  when  the  chiefs  and  prisoners  left  me, 
accompanied  by  Lieutenant  Wilkinson,  I  did  not  know  the  geographical 
situation  of  the  two  villages,  but  conceived,  that  in  going  to  the  Little 
village,  they  would  pass  by  the  Grand  village,  and  of  course  that  Lieuten- 
ant Wilkinson  and  the  chief  would  arrange  the  affair  properly. 

Saturday,  23d  August. — I  expected  to  have  received  from  the  chiefs 
their  answers  to  my  demands,  but  had  an  express  from  both  villages 
informing  me  that  they  wished  to  defer  them  until  to-morrow.  I  then 
adjusted  my  instruments,  took  equal  altitudes,  and  a  meridianal  altitude  of 
the  sun ;  but  owing  to  flying  clouds  missed  the  immersions  of  Jupiter's 
Satellites. 

Sunday,  24th  August. — Was  nearly  half  the  day  in  adjusting  the  line 
of  culmination  in  the  telescope  sights  of  my  theodolite.  It  began  to  grow 
cloudy  before  evening,  and  although  the  sky  was  not  entirely  covered,  I 
was  so  unfortunate  as  to  miss  the  lime  of  an  immersion,  and  (although 
clear  in  the  intermediate  period)  an  emersion  also.  I  was  informed  by 
Baroney  that  the  Little  village  had  made  up  eleven  horses  for  us.  In  the 
evening,  however,  the  interpreter  accompanied  by  the  son-in-law  and  son 
of  the  Cheveu  Blanc  came  to  camp,  and  informed  me,  that  there  were  no 
horses  to  be  procured  in  the  village  of  the  Great  Osage.* 

*  The  following  is  the  substance  of  the  conversation  held  on  this  occasion: 
The  son-in-law  spoke  as  follows:  "  I  am  come  to  give  you  the  news  of  our  village, 
which  is  unfortunate  for  us;  our  chief  having  assembled  his  young  men  and  warriors, 


i66  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

Monday,  25th  August. — In  the  morning  we  were  visited  by  the  Cheveu 
Blanc  and  three  or  four  of  his  chiefs,  who  were  pleased  to  accede  to  my 
demands.  He  found  much  difiiculty  in  informing  me  that  in  all  his  vil- 
lage he  could  only  raise  four  horses,  but  said  that  we  should  be  accompa- 
nied by  his  son  and  son-in-law.  I  then  expressed  to  him  the  difference  of 
our  expectations  from  the  reality. 

We  remained  until  after  twelve  o'clock,  when  I  went  to  the  Little 
Osage  village,  and  was  received  with  great  friendship  by  the  chief. 
Remained  all  night  at  the  house  of  Tuttassuggy.     Took  the  census. 

Tuesday,  26th  August. — Rose  early,  and  found  my  friends  in  council, 
which  was  merely  relative  to  our  horses.  The  Chief  then  declared  their 
determination  to  me,  and  said  that  he  himself  gave  me  one  horse,  and 
lent  me  eight  more  to  carry  our  baggage  to  the  Pawnees. 

Sold  the  old  batteau  for  one  hundred  dollars  in  merchandize,  which  I 
conceived  infinitely  preferable  to  leaving  her  to  the  uncertain  safe-guard 
of  the  Indians.  About  this  time  we  received  the  news  that  the  party  of 
Potowatomies  were  discovered  to  be  near  the  towns  ;  I  gave  them  the  best 
advice  I  could,  and  then  returned  to  our  camp. 

Wednesday,  27th  August. — Spent  in  arranging  our  baggage  for  the 
horses.     Received  four  horses  from  the  Little  village,  and  two  from  the 


and  proposed  to  them  to  furnish  horses,  &c.,  they  have  generally  refused  him,  but  I, 
who  am  the  principal  man  after  the  Cheveu  Blanc,  will  accompany  you." 

The  son,  "  Our  young  men  and  warriors  will  not  take  pity  on  my  father,  nor  on 
me,  nor  on  you,  and  have  refused  to  comply  with  your  request.  But  I  will  accom- 
pany you  with  two  horses  to  carry  provision  for  your  voyage." 

The  interpreter:  "  The  Cheveu  Blanc  was  ashamed  to  bring  you  this  answer,  but 
will  again  asserrible  his  village,  and  to-morrow  will  come  himself  and  give  you  the 
answer." 

I  replied:  "  That  I  had  made  the  demand  without  explanation,  merely  to  let  the 
Osage  act  agreeably  to  their  inclination,  in  order  that  we  might  see  what  disposition 
they  would  manifest  towards  us.  But  why  do  I  ask  of  their  chiefs  to  follow  me  to 
the  Pawnees;  is  it  for  our  good  or  their  own?  Is  it  not  to  make  peace  with  the  Kan- 
ses,  to  put  their  wives  and  children  out  of  danger?  As  to  the  horses  which  they  may 
furnish  us,  I  will  pay  them  for  their  hire;  but  it  is  uncertain  whether  I  can  pay  them 
here,  or  give  them  an  order  on  the  superintendent  of  Indian  affairs  at  St.  Louis;  but 
this  I  do  not  now  wish  them  to  be  made  acquainted  with." 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  LOUISIANA.  167 

Grand  village.  In  the  evening  Lieutenant  Wilkinson  rode  to  the  latter. 
I  observed  two  immersions  of  Jupiter's  Satellites. 

Thursday,  28th  August. — Wrote  to  the  Secretary  at  War,  and  the 
General;  and  made  arrangements  for  our  departure.  Visited  by  The  Wind, 
and  Sans  Oreille. 

Friday,  29th  Atigust. — Forenoon  occupied  in  writing  letters.  In  the 
afternoon  Dr.  Robinson  and  myself  went  to  the  Grand  village,  at  which 
we  saw  the  great  medicine  dance.     Remained  at  the  village  all  night. 

Saturday,  30th  August. — Returned  to  the  camp  after  settling  all  my 
affairs  at  the  town.  Sealed  up  our  despatches,  and  sent  off  the  General's 
express.* 

In  the  afternoon  we  were  visited  by  the  principal  men  of  the  Little 
village,  and  the  chief,  to  whom  I  presented  a  flag,  and  made  the  dona- 
tions which  I  conceived  requisite  to  the  different  Indians,  on  account  of 
horses,  &c. 

Sunday,  31st  August. — Arranging  our  packs,  and  loading  our  horses, 
in  order  to  fit  our  loads,  as  we  expected  to  march  on  the  morrow.  Up 
late  writing  letters. 

Monday,  ist  September. — Struck  our  tents  early  in  the  morning,  and 
commenced  loading  our  horses.  We  now  discovered  that  an  Indian  had 
stolen  a  large  black  horse,  which  the  Cheveu  Blanc  had  presented  to 
Lieutenant  Wilkinson.  I  mounted  a  horse  to  pursue  him,  but  the  inter- 
preter went  to  town,  and  the  Chief's  wife  sent  another  in  its  stead.  We 
left  this  place  about  twelve  o'clock,  with  fifteen  loaded  horses.  Our  party, 
consisting  of  two  lieutenants,  one  doctor,  two  sergeants,  one  corporal, 
fifteen  privates,  two  interpreters,  three  Pawnees,  and  four  chiefs  of  the 
Grand  Osage,  amounting  in  all  to  thirty  warriors  and  one  woman.  We 
crossed  the  Grand  Osage  fork,  and  a  prairie,  N.  80°  W.  five  miles  to  the 
fork  of  the  Little  Osage:  distance,  eight  miles.  Joined  by  Sans  Oreille 
and  seven  Little  Osages,  all  of  whom  I  equipped  for  the  march. 

The  country  round  the  Osage  villages  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
that  the  eye  ever  beheld.  The  three  branches  of  the  river,  viz.,  the  large 
eastern  fork,  the  middle  one,  (up  which  we  ascended,)  and  the  northern,  all 
winding  round  and  past  the  villages,  giving  the  advantages  of  wood  and 
water,  and  at  the  same  time  the  extensive  prairie,  crowned  with  rich  and 

*See  Appendix,  No.  VII. 


i68  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

luxuriant  grass  and  flowers,  gently  diversified  by  rising  swells  and  sloping 
lawns,  presenting  to  the  warm  imagination  the  future  seats  of  husbandry, 
the  numerous  herds  of  domestic  animals,  which  are  no  doubt  destined  to 
crown  with  joy  these  happy  plains.  From  the  last  village  on  the  Missouri 
to  the  prairie  on  the  Osage  river,  we  found  plenty  of  deer,  bears,  and  some 
turkies;  from  thence  to  the  towns  are  some  elk  and  deer,  but  near  the  vil- 
lages they  become  scarce. 

The  Osage  Indians  appear  to  have  emigrated  from  the  north  and 
west,  and  from  their  speaking  the  same  language  with  the  Kanses,  Ottoes, 
Missouries,  and  Mahaws,  together  with  one  great  similarity  of  manners, 
morals,  and  customs,  there  is  left  no  room  to  doubt  that  they  were  origi- 
nally the  same  nation;  but  separated  by  those  great  laws  of  nature,  self- 
preservation,  the  love  of  freedom,  and  the  ambition  of  various  characters, 
so  inherent  in  the  breast  of  man.  As  nations  purely  erratic  must  depend 
solely  on  the  chase  for  subsistence,  (unless  pastoral,  which  is  not  the  case 
with  our  savages,)  it  requires  large  tracts  of  country  to  afford  food  for  a  very 
limited  number  of  souls;  consequently  self-preservation  obliges  them  to 
expand  themselves  over  a  large  and  extensive  district.  The  power  of  cer- 
tain chiefs  becoming  unlimited,  and  their  rule  severe,  added  to  the  passion- 
ate love  of  liberty,  and  the  ambition  of  their  young,  bold,  and  daring 
characters,  who  step  forward  to  head  the  mal-contents,  and  like  the 
tribes  of  Israel,  to  lead  them  through  the  wilderness  to  a  new 
land,  the  land  of  promise,  which  flowed  with  milk  and  honey  (alias,  abound- 
ing with  deer  and  buffalo);  these  characters  soon  succeeded  in  leading  forth 
a  new  colony,  and  in  process  of  time  establishing  a  new  nation.  The 
Mahaws,  Missouries,  and  Ottoes,  remained  on  the  banks  of  the  Missouri  river, 
such  a  distance  up  as  to  be  within  the  reach,  of  that  powerful  enemy,  the 
Sioux,  who,  with  the  aid  of  the  small-pox,  which  the  former  nations  unfortu- 
nately contracted  by  their  connection  with  the  whites,  have  reduced  the 
Mahaws,  formerly  a  brave  and  powerful  nation,  to  a  mere  cypher,  and 
obliged  the  Ottoes  and  Missouries,  who  now  form  but  one  nation,  to  join 
their  forces.  The  Kanses  and  Osages  came  farther  to  the  east,  and  thereby 
avoided  the  Sioux,  but  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  lowas,  Sacs,  Kickapoos, 
Potowatomies,  Delawares,  Shawonoes,  Chreokees,  Chickasaws,  Choctaws, 
Arkansaws,  Chaddoes,  and  letans;  and  what  astonished  me  extremely,  was, 
that  they  have  not  been  entirely  destroyed  by  those  nations:  but  this  must  be 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  LOUISIANA.  169 

attributed  only  to  their  ignorance  of  the  enemy's  force,  their  want  of  concert, 
wars  between  themselves,  and  the  great  renown  the  invaders  always  acquire 
by  the  boldness  of  the  enterprise,  on  the  mind  of  the  invaded. 

The  government  of  the  Osages  is  oligarchical,  but  still  partakes  of 
the  nature  of  a  republic  ;  for  although  the  power  is  nominally  vested  in 
a  small  number  of  chiefs,  yet  they  never  undertake  any  matter  of  impor- 
tance without  first  assembling  the  warriors,  and  proposing  the  subject  in 
council,  there  to  be  discussed  and  decided  on  by  a  majority.  Their  chiefs 
are  hereditary  in  most  instances,  but  there  are  many  men  who  have  risen 
to  more  influence  than  those  of  illustrious  ancestry,  by  their  activity  and 
boldness  in  war.  Although  there  is  no  code  of  laws,  yet  there  is  a  tacit 
acknowledgment  of  the  right  which  some  have  to  command  on  certain 
occasions ;  whilst  others  are  bound  to  obey,  and  even  to  submit  to  cor- 
poral punishment,  as  was  instanced  in  the  affair  related  in  my  diary  of  the 
29th  of  July,  when  Has-ha-ke-da-tungar  (or  the  Big  Soldier)  whom  I 
had  made  a  partizan  to  regulate  the  movements  of  the  Indians,  flogged 
a  young  Indian  with  arms  in  his  hands.  On  the  whole,  the  government 
may  be  termed  an  oligarchical  republic,  where  the  chiefs  propose,  and  the 
people  decide  on  all  public  acts. 

The  manners  of  the  Osage  are  different  from  those  of  any  nation  I 
ever  saw,  (except  those  before  mentioned  of  the  same  origin,)  having  their 
people  divided  into  classes,  all  the  bulk  of  the  nation  being  warriors  and 
hunters,  the  terms  being  almost  synonymous  with  them ;  the  rest  are 
divided  into  two  classes,  cooks  and  doctors,  the  latter  of  whom  likewise 
exercise  the  functions  of  priests  or  magicians,  and  have  great  influence  on 
the  councils  of  the  nation,  by  their  pretended  divinations,  interpretations 
of  dreams,  and  magical  performances,  an  illustration  of  which  will  be 
better  given  by  the  following  incident,  which  took  place  during  my  stay: 
Having  had  all  the  doctors,  or  magicians,  assembled  in  the  lodge  of  Ca- 
ha-ga-tonga,  (or  Cheveu  Blanc,)  and  about  five  hundred  spectators,  they 
had  two  rows  of  fires  prepared,  around  the  spot  where  the  sacred  band  was 
stationed.  They  commenced  the  tragic  comedy,  by  putting  a  large 
butcher's  knife  down  their  throats,  the  blood  appearing  to  run  during 
the  operation  very  naturally.  The  scene  was  continued  by  putting  sticks 
through  their  noses,  swallowing  bones,  and  taking  them  out  of  the  nos- 
trils, &c. :  at  length  one  fellow  demanded  of  me  what  I  would  give  if  he 


ijo  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

would  run  a  stick  through  his  tongue,  and  let  another  person  cut  off  the 
piece  ?  I  replied,  a  shirt ;  he  then  apparently  performed  his  promise 
seemingly  with  great  pain,  forcing  a  stick  through  his  tongue,  and  then 
giving  a  knife  to  a  by-stander,  who  appeared  to  cut  off  the  piece,  which 
he  held  to  the  light  for  the  satisfaction  of  the  audience,  then  joined  it  to 
his  tongue,  and  by  a  magical  charm  healed  the  wound  immediately.  On 
demanding  of  me  what  I  thought  of  the  performance  ?  I  replied,  I  would 
give  him  twenty  shirts,  if  he  would  let  me  cut  off  the  piece  from  his 
tongue.  This  disconcerted  him  a  great  deal,  and  I  was  sorry  I  made  the 
observation. 

The  cooks  are  either  for  the  general  use,  or  attached  particularly  to 
the  family  of  some  great  man  ;  and  what  is  more  singular  is,  that  frequently 
persons  who  have  been  great  warriors,  and  brave  men,  having  lost  all  their 
families  by  disease  or  in  war,  and  themselves  becoming  old  and  infirm, 
frequently  take  up  the  profession  of  a  cook,  in  which  they  do  not  carry 
arms,  and  are  supported  by  the  public,  or  by  their  particular  patron.  They 
likewise  exercise  the  functions  of  town  criers,  calling  the  chiefs  to  council, 
or  to  feasts ;  and  if  any  particular  person  is  wanted,  you  employ  a  crier, 
who  goes  through  the  village  calling  his  name,  and  informing  him  he  is 
wanted  at  such  a  lodge. 

When  received  into  the  Osage  village,  you  immediately  present  your- 
self at  the  lodge  of  the  chief,  who  receives  you  as  his  guest,  where  you 
generally  eat  first,  after  the  old  patriarchal  style ;  you  are  then  invited  to  a 
feast  by  all  the  great  men  of  the  village,  and  it  would  be  a  great  insult  not 
to  comply,  at  least  so  far  as  to  taste  of  their  victuals.  In  one  instance  I 
was  obliged  to  taste  of  fifteen  different  entertainments  in  the  same  after- 
noon. You  will  hear  the  cooks  crying,  come  and  eat,  such  a  one  gives  a 
feast,  come  and  eat  of  his  bounty.  Their  dishes  were  generally  boiled 
sweet  corn  in  buffalo  grease,  or  boiled  meat  and  pumpkins ;  but  Sans 
Oreille  (or  Tetobah)  treated  me  with  some  tea  in  a  wooden  dish,  new  horn 
spoons,  boiled  meat  and  crullers;  he  had  been  in  the  United  States. 

Their  towns  hold  more  people  in  the  same  space  of  ground  than  any 
place  I  ever  saw ;  their  lodges  being  posted  with  scarcely  any  regularity, 
each  individual  building  in  the  manner,  direction  and  dimensions  that  suit 
him  best ;  by  which  means  they  frequently  leave  only  room  for  a  single 
man  to  squeeze  between  them.     Added  to  this,  they  have  pens  for  their 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  LOUISIANA.  171 

horses,  all  within  the  village,  into  which  they  always  drive  them  at  night, 
in  case  they  think  there  is  any  reason  to  believe  an  enemy  to  be  lurking 
in  the  vicinity.  The  Osage  lodges  are  generally  constructed  with  upright 
posts,  put  firmly  in  the  ground,  about  twenty  feet  in  height,  with  a  crotch 
at  the  top.  They  are  generally  about  twelve  feet  distant  from  each  other. 
In  the  crotch  of  these  posts  are  put  the  ridge  poles,  over  which  are  bent 
small  poles,  the  ends  of  which  are  brought  down  and  fastened  to  a  row  of 
stakes,  of  about  five  feet  in  height ;  these  are  fastened  together  with 
three  horizontal  bars,  and  form  the  flank  walls  of  the  lodge.  The  gable 
ends  are  generally  broad  slabs,  and  rounded  off  to  the  ridge  pole.  The 
whole  of  the  building  and  sides  are  covered  with  matting  made  of  rushes 
of  two  or  three  feet  in  length,  and  four  feet  in  width,  which  are  joined 
together,  and  entirely  exclude  the  rain.  The  doors  are  in  the  side  of  the 
building,  and  there  is  generally  one  on  each  side  ;  the  fires  are  made  in 
holes  in  the  centre  of  the  lodge,  the  smoke  ascending  through  apertures 
left  in  the  roof  for  the  purpose.  At  one  end  of  the  dwelling  is  a  raised 
platform  about  three  feet  from  the  ground,  which  is  covered  with  bear 
skins,  and  generally  holds  all  the  little  choice  furniture  of  the  master,  and 
on  this  repose  his  honourable  guests.  In  fact,  with  neatness  and  a  pleas- 
ing companion,  they  compose  a  very  comfortable  and  pleasant  summer 
habitation;  but  they  are  left  in  the  winter  for  the  woods:  they  vary  in 
length  from  thirty-six  to  one  hundred  feet. 

The  Osage  nation  is  divided  into  three  villages,  and  in  a  few  years  you 
may  say  nations,  viz.,  the  Grand  Osage,  the  Little  Osage,  and  those  of  the 
Arkansaw.  The  Little  separated  from  the  Grand  Osage  about  two  years 
since  ;  and  their  chiefs,  on  obtaining  permission  to  lead  forth  a  colony  from 
the  grand  council  of  the  nation,  moved  on  to  the  Missouri ;  but  after  some 
years,  finding  themselves  too  hard  pressed  by  their  enemies,  they  again 
obtained  leave  to  return  and  put  themselves  under  the  protection  of  the 
Grand  village,  and  settled  down  about  six  miles  off.  The  Arkansaw 
schism  was  effected  by  Mr.  Pierre  Chouteau,  ten  or  twelve  years  ago,  in 
revenge  of  Mr.  Manuel  de  Liza,  who  had  obtained  from  the  Spanish  gov- 
ernment the  exclusive  trade  of  the  Osage  nation  by  the  way  of  the  Osage 
river,  after  it  had  been  in  the  hands  of  M.  Chouteau  for  nearly  twenty 
years;  the  latter  leaving  the  trade  of  the  Arkansaw,  thereby  nearly  ren- 
dered abortive,  the  exclusive  privilege  of  his  rival.      He  has  been  vainly 


172  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

promising  to  the  government,  that  he  would  bring  them  back  to  join  the 
Grand  village,  but  his  reception  at  the  Arkansaw  village  must  have  nearly 
cured  him  of  that  idea.  And  in  fact  every  reason  induces  a  belief,  that  the 
other  villages  are  much  more  likely  to  join  the  Arkansaw,  which  is  daily 
becoming  more  powerful,  than  the  latter  return  to  its  ancient  residence; 
for  the  Grand  and  Little  Osage  are  both  obliged  to  proceed  to  the  Arkan- 
saw every  winter  to  kill  the  summer  provision:  all  the  nations  with  whom 
they  are  now  at  war  are  besides  situated  to  the  westward  of  that  river, 
from  whence  they  get  all  their  horses.  These  inducements  are  such,  that 
the  young,  the  bold,  and  the  enterprising  are  daily  emigrating  from  the 
Osage  village  to  the  Arkansaw  village.  In  fact  it  would  become  the  inter- 
est of  our  government  to  encourage  that  emigration,  if  they  intended  to 
promote  the  extension  of  the  settlement  of  Upper  Louisiana;  but  their 
true  policy  is  to  use  every  method  to  prevent  their  elongation  from  the 
Missouri. 

They  are  considered  by  the  nations  to  the  south  and  west  of  them  as 
a  brave  and  warlike  people,  but  are  by  no  means  a  match  for  the  northern 
nations,  who  make  use  of  the  rifle,  and  can  combat  them  two  for  one,  whilst 
they  again  may  fight  those  armed  with  bows,  arrows,  and  lances,  at  the 
same  disproportion.  The  humane  policy  which  the  United  States  have  held 
forth  to  the  Indians  of  accommodating  their  differences,  and  acting  as 
mediators  between  them,  has  succeeded  to  a  miracle  with  the  Osage  of  the 
Grand  village  and  the  Little  Osage.  They  have  by  this  means  become  a 
nation  of  quakers,  as  it  respects  the  nations  to  the  north  and  east  of  them, 
at  the  same  time  that  they  continue  to  make  war  on  the  naked  and  defense- 
less savages  of  the  west.  An  instance  of  their  forbearance  was  exhibited 
by  an  attack  made  on  a  hunting  party  of  the  Little  Osage  some  time  since, 
on  the  Grand  river  of  the  Osage,  by  a  party  of  Potowatomies,  who  crossed 
the  River  Missouri  by  the  Saline,  and  found  the  women  and  children  alone 
and  defenceless.  The  men,  fifty  or  sixty  in  number,  having  found  plenty  of 
deer  the  day  before,  had  encamped  out  all  night.  The  enemy  struck  the 
camp  about  ten  o'clock  in  the  morning,  killed  all  the  women  and  boys  who 
made  resistance,  also  some  infants,  the  whole  number  amounting  to  thirty- 
four,  and  led  into  captivity  near  sixty,  forty-six  of  whom  were  afterwards 
recovered  by  the  United  States,  and  sent  under  my  protection  to  the  vil- 
lage.    When  the  men  returned  to  the  camp,  they  found  their  families  all 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  LOUISIANA.  173 

destroyed  or  taken  prisoners ;  my  narrator  had  his  wife  and  four  children 
killed  on  the  spot !  and  yet  in  obedience  to  the  injunction  of  their  "  Great" 
Father"  they  forebore  to  revenge  the  blow  !  As  an  instance  of  the  great 
influence  the  French  formerly  had  over  this  nation,  the  following  anecdote 
may  be  interesting:  Chtoka  (or  Wet  Stone),  a  Little  Osage,  said,  "he 
was  at  Braddock's  defeat,  with  all  the  warriors  who  could  be  spared  from 
both  villages;  that  they  were  engaged  by  Mr.  M'Cartie,  who  commanded 
at  Fort  Chartres,  and  who  supplied  them  with  powder  and  ball ;  that  the 
general  place  of  rendezvous  was  near  a  lake  and  large  fall,  (suppose 
Niagara,)  the  Kanses  did  not  arrive  until  after  the  battle,  but  that  the 
Ottoes  were  present;  they  were  absent  from  their  villages  seven  months, 
and  were  obliged  to  eat  their  horses  on  their  return." 

The  Osage  raise  large  quantities  of  corn,  beans,  and  pumpkins,  which 
they  manage  with  the  greatest  economy,  in  order  to  make  them  last  from 
year  to  year;  all  the  agricultural  labour  is  done  by  women. 

If  the  government  think  it  expedient  to  establish  factories  for  the 
Grand  and  Little  villages,  equi-distant  from  both,  which  would  answer  for 
either,  the  other  establishment  should  be  on  the  Arkansaw,  near  the 
entrance  of  the  Verdigrise  river,*  for  the  Arkansaw  Osage. 

Tuesday,  2d  September. — Marched  at  six  o'clock,  halted  at  ten,  and  at 
two  o'clock  on  the  side  of  the  Creek,  our  route  having  been  all  the  time 
on  its  borders.  I  was  here  informed  by  a  young  Indian,  that  Mr.  Chou- 
teau had  arrived  at  the  towns.  I  conceived  it  proper  for  me  to  return, 
which  I  did,  accompanied  by  Baroney,  first  to  the  Little  village,  whence 
we  were  accompanied  by  The  Wind  to  the  Grand  village,  where  we 
remained  all  night  at  the  lodge  of  the  Cheveu  Blanc.  Mr.  Chouteau  gave 
us  all  the  news;  after  which  I  scrawled  a  letter  to  the  General  and  my 
friends. 

Wednesday,  3d  September. — Rose  early  and  went  to  the  Little  village 
to  breakfast.  After  giving  my  letters  to  Mr.  Henry,  and  arranging  my 
affairs,  we  proceeded  and  overtook  our  party  at  two  o'clock.  They  had 
advanced  from  their  first  camp  about  four  miles.  Our  horses  being  much 
fatigued,  we  concluded  to  remain  all  night:  sent  out  our  red  and  white 
hunters,  who,  together,  only  killed  two  turkies.  Distance  advanced,  four 
miles. 

*  As  stated  by  Lieutenant  Wilkinson.     See  Appendix,  No.  X. 


174  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

Thursday,  4th  September. — When  about  to  march  in  the  morning,  one 
'  of  our  horses  was  observed  to  be  missing;  we  left  Sans  Oreille  with  the 
two  Pawnees  to  search  for  him,  and  proceeded  till  about  nine  o'clock,  then 
stopped  until  twelve,  and  afterwards  marched  again;  in  about  half  an  hour 
I  was  overtaken  and  informed  that  Sans  Oreille  had  not  been  able  to  find 
our  horse;  upon  which  we  encamped  and  sent  two  horses  back  for  the 
load.  One  of  the  Indians  being  jealous  of  his  wife,  sent  her  back  for  the 
village. 

After  making  the  necessary  notes,  Dr.  Robinson  and  myself  took  our 
horses,  and  followed  the  course  of  the  little  stream,  until  we  arrived  at  the 
Grand  river,  which  was  distant  about  six  miles.  We  here  found  a  most 
delightful  basin  of  clear  water,  of  twenty-five  paces  diameter,  and  about 
one  hundred  in  circumference,  in  which  we  bathed;  found  it  deep  and 
delightfully  pleasant.  Nature  scarcely  ever  formed  a  more  beautiful  place 
for  a  farm.  We  returned  to  camp  about  dusk,  when  I  was  informed  that 
some  of  the  Indians  had  been  dreaming,  and  wished  to  return.  Killed 
one  deer,  one  turkey,  and  one  rackoon.     Distance  advanced,  thirteen  miles. 

Friday,  5th  September. — In  the  morning  our  Little  Osage  Indians  all 
came  to  a  determination  to  return;  and,  much  to  my  surprise.  Sans  Oreille 
amongst  the  rest.  I  had  given  an  order  on  the  chiefs  for  the  lost  horse  to 
be  delivered  to  Sans  Oreille's  wife,  previously  to  my  knowing  that  he  was 
going  back,  but  I  took  his  gun  from  him,  and  from  all  the  others.  In 
about  five  miles  we  struck  a  beautiful  hill,  which  bears  south  on  the  prairie; 
its  elevation  I  supposed  to  be  one  hundred  feet.  From  its  summit  the 
view  is  sublime,  to  the  east  and  south-east.  We  waited  on  this  hill  to 
breakfast,  and  had  to  send  two  miles  for  water.  Killed  a  deer  on  the  rise, 
which  was  soon  roasting  before  the  fire.  Here  another  Indian  expressed 
his  wish  to  return;  and  take  his  horse  with  him;  which,  as  we  had  so  few,  I 
could  not  allow;  for  he  had  already  received  a  gun  for  the  use  of  it.  I 
told  him  he  might  return,  but  his  horse  would  go  to  the  Pawnees,  We 
marched,  leaving  the  Osage  trace  which  we  had  hitherto  followed,  and 
crossed  the  hills  to  a  creek  which  was  almost  dry;  descended  it  to  the 
main  river,  where  we  dined.  The  discontented  Indian  came  up,  and  put 
on  an  air  of  satisfaction  and  content.  We  aa;ain  marched  about  six  miles 
further,  and  encamped  at  the  head  of  a  small  creek,  about  half  a  mile  from 
the  water.     Distance  advanced,  nineteen  miles. 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  LOUISIANA.  175 

Saturday,  6th  September. — We  marched  at  half  past  six  o'clock,  and 
arrived  at  a  large  fork  of  the  Little  Osage  river,  where  we  breakfasted. 
In  the  holes  in  the  creek  we  discovered  many  fish,  which,  from  the  stripes 
on  their  bellies  and  their  spots,  I  supposed  to  be  trout  and  bass;  they  were 
twelve  inches  long.  This  brought  to  mind  the  necessity  of  a  net,  which 
would  have  frequently  afforded  subsistence  to  the  whole  party.  We  halted 
at  one  o'clock,  and  remained  until  four.  Being  told  that  we  could  not 
arrive  at  any  water,  we  here  filled  our  vessels.  At  five  o'clock  arrived  at 
the  dividing  ridge  between  the  water  of  the  Osage  and  Arkansaw,  or 
White  river;  the  dry  branches  of  which  intersect  within  twenty  yards  of 
each  other.  The  prospect  from  the  dividing  ridge,  to  the  east  and  south- 
east, is  sublime.  The  prairie  rising  and  falling  in  regular  swells,  as  far  as 
the  sight  can  extend,  produces  a  very  beautiful  appearance.  We  left  our 
course,  and  struck  down  to  the  south-west,  on  a  small  creek,  or  rather  a 
puddle  of  water.     Distance  advanced,  twenty  miles. 

Sunday  7th,  September. — We  killed  one  deer  at  half  past  six  o'clock, 
before  which  we  had  a  difficulty  with  the  son  of  the  chief,  which  was 
accommodated.  At  nine  o'clock  we  came  on  a  large  fork,  and  stopped  for 
breakfast.  Proceeded  on,  and  encamped  on  a  fine  stream,  where  we  swam 
our  horses,  and  bathed  ourselves.  Distanced  advanced  fifteen  miles. 
Killed  four  deer. 

Monday,  8th  September. — Marched  early,  and  arrived  at  a  grand  fork 
of  the  White  river.  The  Indians  were  all  discontented,  we  had  taken  the 
wrong  ford;  but,  as  they  were  dispersed  through  the  woods,  we  could  not 
be  governed  by  their  movements.  Previously  to  our  leaving  the  camp, 
the  son  of  the  Cheveu  Blanc  proposed  returning,  and  offered  no  other 
reason  than  that  he  felt  too  lazy  to  perform  the  route.  The  reasons  I 
urged  were  ineffectual  to  prevent  his  going;  and  he  departed  with  his 
hunter,  who  deprived  us  of  one  horse.  His  return  left  us  without  any 
chief  or  man  of  consideration,  except  the  son  of  the  Belle  Oiseau,  who  was 
but  a  lad.  The  former  appeared  to  be  a  discontented  young  fellow;  and 
filled  with  self-conceit;  he  certainly  ought  to  have  considered  it  an  honour 
to  be  sent  on  so  respectable  an  embassy  as  he  was.  Another  Indian,  who 
owned  one  of  our  horses,  wished  to  return  with  him,  which  was  positively 
refused  him;  but  fearing  he  might  steal  the  horse,  I  contented  him  with  a 
present.     We  marched  and  made  the  second  branch,  crossing  one  prairie. 


176  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

for  twelve  miles  of  which  we  suffered  much  from  drought.  Distance 
advanced,  twenty-two  miles. 

Tuesday,  9th  September. — Marched  at  seven  o'clock,  and  struck  a  large 
creek  at  eleven  miles  distance.  On  holding  a  council  it  was  determined 
to  ascend  this  to  the  highest  point  of  water,  and  then  strike  across  to  a 
large  river  of  the  Arkansaw.  We  proceeded  four  miles  and  a  half,  and 
encamped.  Distanced  advanced  in  all  twelve  miles.  Killed  one  cabrie, 
two  deer,  and  two  turkies. 

From  the  Osage  towns  to  the  source  of  the  Osage  river,  there  is  no 
difference  in  the  appearance  of  the  country  from  that  of  their  vicinity, 
except  that  on  the  south  and  east,  the  view  on  the  prairies  becomes 
unbounded.  The  waters  of  the  White  river  and  the  Osage,  as  above 
remarked,  are  divided  merely  by  a  small  ridge  in  the  prairie,  and  the  dry 
branches  appear  to  interlock  at  their  head.  From  thence  to  the  main 
branch  of  the  said  river  the  country  appeared  high,  with  gravelly  ridges 
of  prairie  land.  On  the  main  White  river  is  found  large  timber  and  fine 
ground  for  cultivation.  Hence  a  doubt  arises  as  to  the  disemboguing  of 
this  stream.— Lieutenant  Wilkinson,  from  some  authority,  has  drawn  the 
conclusion,  that  it  discharges  itself  into  the  Arkansaw,  a  short  distance 
below  the  Vermillion  river;  but  from  the  voyage  of  Captain  Many  on  the 
White  river,  the  information  of  hunters,  Indians,  &c.,  I  am  rather  induced 
to  believe  it  to  be  the  White  river  of  the  Mississippi,  as  at  their  mouths 
there  is  not  so  great  a  difference  between  their  magnitude;  and  all  persons 
agree  in  asserting  that  the  White  river  heads  between  the  Osage  river, 
Arkansaw,  and  Kanses  rivers,  which  would  still  leave  the  Arkansaw  near 
eight  hundred  miles  longer  than  the  White  river.  From  these  proofs  I 
am  pretty  confident  in  asserting  that  this  was  the  White  river  of  the 
Mississippi  which  we  crossed.*  At  the  place  where  we  traversed  it,  the 
stream  was  amply  navigable  for  canoes,  even  at  this  dry  season  of  the  year. 

Wednesday,  loth  September. — Marched  early,  struck  and  passed  the 
dividing  ground  between  the  Grand  and  the  Verdigrise  rivers.  Stopped 
to  breakfast  on  a  small  stream  of  the  latter ;  after  which  we  marched  and 

*On  comparing  this  passage  with  the  map,  Lieutenant  Wilkinson  appears  to  have 
been  rightly  informed,  for  the  sources  of  what  is  here  called  the  White  river,  of  the 
Mississippi,  are  laid  down,  agreeably  to  Captain  Many's  survey,  considerably  farther 
to  the  southward.  E. 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  LOUISIANA.  177 

encamped  on  the  fourth  small  stream.  Distance  advanced,  twenty-one 
miles.     Killed  one  elk  and  one  deer. 

Up  the  Grand  river  to  the  dividing  ridges  between  it  and  the  Verdi- 
grise,  the  bottom  is  of  some  magnitude  and  importance  ;  but  the  latter  river 
is  bounded  here  by  a  narrow  bed  of  prairie  hills,  affording  not  more  than 
sufficient  timber  for  fire-wood  for  a  limited  number  of  inhabitants  for  a 
few  years, 

Thursday,  nth  September. — Passed  four  more  branches,  and  en- 
camped at  night  on  a  large  branch  of  Grand  river.  Killed  one  cabrie  and 
one  deer.     Distance  advanced,  seventeen  miles. 

Friday,  1 2th  September. — Commenced  our  march  at  seven  o'clock,  and 
passed  some  very  rough  flint  hills  ;  my  feet  blistered,  and  were  very  sore. 
Standing  on  a  hill,  I  beheld  in  one  view  below  me,  buffaloes,  elks,  deer, 
cabrie,  and  panthers.  Encamped  on  the  main  branch  of  Grand  river, 
which  had  very  steep  banks,  and  was  deep.  Dr.  Robinson,  Bradley  and 
Baroney,  arrived  after  dusk,  having  killed  three  buffaloes,  which,  with  one 
I  had  killed,  and  two  by  the  Indians,  made  in  all  six.  The  Indians 
alleging  it  was  the  Kanses  hunting  ground,  said  they  would  destroy  all 
the  game  they  possibly  could.     Distance  advanced,  eighteen  miles. 

Saturday,  1 3th  September. — Late  in  marching,  it  having  every  appear- 
ance of  rain.  Halted  to  dine  on  a  branch  of  Grand  river.  Marched  aofain 
at  half-past  two  o'clock,  and  halted  at  five,  intending  to  despatch  Dr. 
Robinson  and  one  of  our  Pawnees  to  the  village  to-morrow.  Distance 
advanced,  nine  miles.     Killed  six  buffaloes,  one  elk,  and  three  deer. 

Sunday,  14th  September. — The  Doctor,  and  Frank  (a  young  Pawnee), 
marched  to  the  village  at  daylight,  and  we  pursued  our  route  at  half-past 
six  o'clock.  Halted  at  one  o'clock.  On  the  march  we  were  contin- 
ually passing  through  large  herds  of  buffaloes,  elk,  and  cabrie;  and  I  have 
no  doubt  but  one  hunter  could  support  two  hundred  men.  I  prevented 
the  men  shooting  at  the  game,  not  merely  because  of  the  scarcity  of  am- 
munition, but  as  I  conceived  the  laws  of  morality  also  forbade  it.  En- 
camped at  sunset  on  the  main  branch  of  White  river,  hitherto  called  Grand 
river.*  Distance  advanced,  twenty-one  miles.  Killed  one  buffalo  and  one 
cabrie. 

*  On  the  map  they  clearly  appear  as  very  distinct  streams,  the  latter  being  a  trib- 
utary branch  of  the  Arkansaw.  E. 


178  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

Monday,  i^xki.  September. — Marched  at  seven  o'clock;  passed  a  very 
large  Kanses  encampment  evacuated,  which  had  been  occupied  last  sum- 
mer. Proceeded  on  to  the  dividing  ridge,  between  the  waters  of  the 
White  river  and  the  Kanses.  Halted  at  one  o'clock  very  much  against 
the  inclination  of  the  Osage  ;  who,  from  the  running  of  the  buffaloes,  con- 
ceived a  party  of  the  Kanses  to  be  near.  Distance  advanced,  eighteen 
miles.     Killed  two  buffaloes. 

From  the  Verdigrise  river  our  course  had  lain  over  gravelly  hills,  and 
a  prairie  country,  but  well  watered  by  the  branches  of  the  Verdigrise,  and 
White  or  Grand  river.  From  the  dividing  ridge,  which  parts  these  streams, 
to  the  source  of  the  latter,  there  is  very  little  timber.  The  grass  is  short, 
the  prairies  high  and  dry  ;  from  the  head  of  White  river  over  the  dividing 
ridge  between  that  and  the  eastern  branch  of  the  Kanses  river,  the  land  is 
high  and  dry,  and  exhibits  many  appearances  of  iron  ore ;  and  on  the 
western  side  some  spa  springs.  Here  the  country  is  very  deficient  of 
water. 

Tuesday,  i6th  September. — Marched  late,  and  in  about  four  miles  and 
a  half  distance  came  to  a  very  handsome  stream  of  water,  at  which  we 
stopped,  and  remained  until  after  two  o'clock,  when  we  pursued  our  march 
and  crossed  two  branches,  and  encamped  on  the  third.  At  the  second 
creek,  a  horse  was  discovered  on  the  prairie,  when  Baroney  went  in  pur- 
suit of  him  on  a  horse  of  Lieutenant  Wilkinson's,  but  arrived  at  our  camp 
without  success.     Distance  advanced,  thirteen  miles. 

Wednesday,  17th  September. — Marched  early,  and  struck  the  main 
south-east  branch  of  the  Kanses  river  at  nine  o'clock;  it  appeared  to  be 
twenty-five  or  thirty  yards  wide,  and  is  navigable  in  the  flood  seasons. 
We  passed,  and  proceeded  six  miles,  to  a  small  stream,  to  breakfast. 
Game  getting  scarce,  our  provisions  began  to  run  low.  Marched  about 
two  o'clock,  and  encamped  at  sun  down,  on  another  large  branch.  Killed 
one  buffalo.     Distance  advanced,  twenty-one  miles. 

Thursday,  i8th  September. — Marched  at  our  usual  hour,  and  at  twelve 
o'clock  halted  at  a  large  branch  of  the  Kanses,  which  was  strongly  impreg- 
nated with  salt.  This  day  we  expected  the  people  of  the  village  to  meet 
us.  We  marched  again  at  four  o'clock,  our  route  being  over  a  continued 
series  of  hills  and  hollows,  we  were  until  eight  at  night  before  we  arrived 
at  a  small  dry  branch;  it  was  nearly  ten  before  we  found  any  water.  Com- 
menced raining  a  little  before  day.     Distance  advanced,  twenty-five  miles. 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  LOUISIANA.  179 

Friday,  19th  September. — It  having  commenced  raining  early,  we 
secured  our  baggage,  and  pitched  our  tents.  The  rain  continued  without 
any  intermission  the  whole  day;  during  which  we  employed  ourselves  in 
reading,  and  in  pricking  on  our  arms  with  India  ink  some  characters  which 
will  frequently  bring  to  mind  our  forlorn  and  dreary  situation,  as  well  as 
the  happiest  days  of  our  lives.  In  the  rear  of  our  encampment  was  a  hill, 
on  which  there  was  a  large  rock  where  the  Indians  kept  a  continual  senti- 
nel, as  I  imagine,  to  apprise  them  of  the  approach  of  any  party,  friends  or 
foes,  as  well  as  to  see  if  they  could  discover  any  game  on  the  prairies. 

Sattirday,  20th  September. — It  appearing  as  if  we  might  possibly  have 
a  clear  day,  I  ordered  our  baggage  to  be  spread  abroad,  but  it  shortly 
after  clouded  up,  and  commenced  raining.  The  Osage  sentinel  discovered 
a  buffalo  on  the  prairies;  upon  which  we  despatched  a  hunter  on  horseback 
in  pursuit  of  him.  Sent  also  some  hunters  out  on  foot,  and  before  night 
they  killed  three  buffaloes;  some  of  the  best  of  which  we  brought  in,  and 
j irked  or  dried  by  the  fire.  It  continued  showery  until  the  afternoon, 
when  we  put  our  baggage  again  in  a  position  to  dry,  and  remained 
encamped.  The  detention  of  the  Doctor  and  our  Pawnee  ambassador, 
began  to  be  a  matter  of  serious  consideration  to  us. 

Sunday,  21st  Septevtber. — We  marched  at  eight  o'clock,  although  the 
weather  exhibited  every  appearance  of  rain ;  and  at  eleven  o'clock  passed 
a  large  creek  remarkably  salt.  Stopped  at  one  o'clock  on  a  fresh  branch 
of  the  salt  creek.  Our  interpreter  having  killed  an  elk,  we  sent  out  for 
some  meat,  which  detained  us  so  late  that  I  concluded  it  best  to  encamp 
where  we  were,  in  preference  to  running  the  risk  of  finding  no  water. 
Lieutenant  Wilkinson  was  attacked  with  a  severe  head-ache,  and  slight 
feyer.  One  of  my  men  had  been  attacked  with  a  touch  of  the  pleurisy  on 
the  1 8th,  and  was  still  ill.  We  were  informed  by  an  Osage  woman,  that 
two  of  the  Indians,  one  of  whom  was  her  husband,  were  conspiring  to 
desert  us  in  the  night,  and  to  steal  some  of  our  horses.  We  engaged  her 
as  our  spy.  Thus  were  we  obliged  to  keep  ourselves  on  our  guard  against 
our  own  companions  and  fellow  travellers,  men  of  a  nation  highly  favpured 
by  the  United  States,  but  whom  I  believe  to  be  a  faithless  set  of  poltroons, 
incapable  of  a  great  and  generous  action.  Amongst  them,  indeed,  there 
may  be  some  exceptions. 


i8o  TRAVELS    THROUGH 

In  the  evening,  finding  the  two  Indians  above  mentioned  had  made 
all  preparations  to  depart,  I  sent  for  one  of  them  who  owned  a  horse,  and 
had  received  a  gun  and  other  property  for  his  hire,  and  told  him,  "  I  knew 
his  plans,  and  that  if  he  was  disposed  to  desert,  I  should  take  care  to 
retain  his  horse;  that  as  for  himself,  he  might  leave  me  if  he  pleased,  as  I 
only  wanted  men  with  us."  He  replied,  "  that  he  was  a  man,  and  that  he 
always  performed  his  promises;  that  he  had  never  said  he  would  return, 
but  that  he  would  follow  me  to  the  Pawnees'  village,  which  he  intended  to 
do."  He  then  brought  his  baggage,  and  put  it  under  charge  of  the 
sentinel,  and  sleptby  my  fire;  but  notwithstanding  I  had  him  well  watched. 
Distance  advanced,  ten  miles.     Killed  one  elk, 

Monday,  2  2d  September. — We  did  not  march  until  eight  o'clock,  owing 
to  the  indisposition  of  Lieutenant  Wilkinson.  At  eleven  waited  to  dine. 
Light  mists  of  rain,  with  flying  clouds.  We  marched  again  at  three 
o'clock,  and  continued  our  route  for  twelve  miles,  to  the  first  branch  of 
the  Republican  fork.  Met  a  Pawnee  hunter,  who  informed  us,  that  the 
Chief  had  left  the  village  the  day  after  the  Doctor  arrived,  with  fifty  or 
sixty  horses  and  many  people,  and  had  taken  his  course  to  the  northward 
of  our  route,  consequently  we  had  missed  each  other.  He  likewise 
informed  me  that  the  letans  had  recently  killed  six  Pawnees;  the  Kanses 
stolen  some  horses;  and  that  a  party  of  three  hundred  Spaniards  had  lately 
been  as  far  as  the  Saline,  but  for  what  purpose  was  unknown.  Distance 
advanced,  twenty-one  miles. 

Tuesday,  23d  September. — Marched  early,  and  passed  a  large  fork  of 
the  Kanses  river,  which  I  supposed  to  be  the  one  generally  called 
Solomon's  fork.  One  of  our  horses  fell  into  the  water,  and  wetted  his 
load.  Halted  at  ten  o'clock  on  a  branch  of  this  fork.  We  marched  again 
at  half  past  one  o'clock,  and  encamped  at  sun  down,  on  a  dry  river  course 
where  we  had  great  difficulty  to  find  water.  We  were  overtaken  by  a 
Pawnee,  who  encamped  with  us.  He  offered  his  horse  for  our  use. 
Distance  advanced,  twenty-one  miles. 

Wednesday,  24th  Septem.ber. — We  could  not  find  our  horses  until  late, 
when  we  marched.  Before  noon  met  Frank  (who  had  accompanied  Dr. 
Robinson  to  the  village),  and  three  other  Pawnees,  who  informed  us  that 
the  Chief  and  his  party  had  only  arrived  at  the  village  yesterday,  and  had 
despatched  them  out  in  search  of  us.     Before  three  o'clock  we  were  joined 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  LOUISIANA.  i8i 

by  several  Pawnees;  one  of  them  wore  a  scarlet  coat,  with  a  small  medal 
of  General  Washington,  and  a  Spanish  medal  also.  We  encamped  at 
sun-set,  on  a  middle-sized  branch,  and  were  joined  by  several  Pawnees 
in  the  evening,  who  brought  us  some  buffalo  meat.  Here  we  saw  some 
mules,  horses,  bridles,  and  blankets,  which  they  had  obtained  of  the 
Spaniards.  Few  only  had  breech  cloths,  most  being  wrapped  in  buffalo 
robes;  otherwise  quite  naked.     Distance  advanced,  eighteen  miles. 

Thursday,  25th  September. — We  marched  at  a  good  hour,  and  in 
about  eight  miles  struck  a  very  large  road,  along  which  the  Spanish  troops 
had  returned;  and  on  which  we  could  yet  discover  the  grass  beaten  down, 
in  the  direction  they  had  taken. 

When  we  arrived  within  about  three  miles  of  the  village,  we  were 
requested  to  remain,  as  the  ceremony  of  receiving  the  Osage  into  the 
towns  was  to  be  performed  here.  There  was  a  small  circular  spot,  clear 
of  grass,  before  which  the  Osage  sat  down.  We  were  a  small  distance  in 
advance  of  the  Indians.  The  Pawnees  then  advanced  within  a  mile  of 
us,  and  halted;  divided  into  two  troops,  and  came  on  each  flank  at  full 
charge,  making  all  the  gestures  and  performing  the  manoeuvres  of  a  real 
war  charge.  They  then  encircled  us  around,  and  the  Chief  advanced  in 
the  centre  and  gave  us  his  hand.  His  name  was  Characterick.  He  was 
accompanied  by  his  two  sons,  and  a  chief  by  the  name  of  Iskatappe.  The 
Osage  were  still  seated;  but  the  Belle  Oiseau  then  rose,  and  came  forward 
with  a  pipe,  and  presented  it  to  the  Chief,  who  took  a  whiff  or  two  from  it. 
We  then  proceeded  on;  the  Chief,  Lieutenant  Wilkinson,  and  myself,  in 
front;  my  sergeant,  on  a  white  horse,  next,  with  the  colours;  then  our  horses 
and  baggage,  escorted  by  our  men;  with  the  Pawnees  on  each  side,  running 
races,  &c.  When  we  arrived  on  the  hill  above  the  town,  we  were  again 
halted,  and  the  Osage  seated  themselves  in  a  row,  when  each  Pawnee,  who 
intended  so  to  do,  presented  a  horse,  and  gave  a  pipe  to  smoke  to  the 
Osage  to  whom  he  had  made  the  present.  In  this  manner  were  eight 
horses  given.  Lieutenant  Wilkinson  then  proceeded  on  with  the  party  to 
the  river  above  the  town,  and  encamped.  As  the  Chief  had  invited  us  to 
his  lodge  to  eat,  we  thought  it  proper  for  one  of  us  to  go.  At  the  lodge 
he  gave  me  many  particulars,  which  were  interesting  to  us,  relative  to  the 
late  visit  of  the  Spaniards.* 

*I  will  here  attempt  to  give  some  memoranda  of  this  expedition,  which  was  the 
most  important  ever  sent  out  of  the  province  of  New  Mexico  ;  and    in    fact   the  only 


i82  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

I  went  up  to  our  camp  in  the  evening,  having  a  young  Pawnee  with 
me  loaded  with  corn  for  my  men.     Distance  advanced,  twelve  miles. 

one  directed  to  the  north-eastward,  except  that  mentioned  by  the  Abbe  Raynal,  in  his 
History  of  the  Indies,  to  the  Pawnees. 

In  the  year  1806  our  affairs  with  Spain  began  to  wear  a  very  serious  aspect,  and 
the  troops  of  the  two  governments  almost  came  to  actual  hostilities  on  the  frontiers 
of  Texas  and  the  Orleans  territory;  at  this  time,  when  matters  bore  every  appearance 
of  coming  to  a  crisis,  I  was  fitting  out  for  my  expedition  from  St.  Louis,  when  some 
of  the  Spanish  emissaries  in  that  country  transmitted  the  information  to  Major 
Merior,  and  the  Spanish  council  at  that  place,  who  immediately  forwarded  the  infor- 
mation to  Captain  Sebastian  Roderiques,  the  then  commandant  of  Nacogdoches, 
who  forwarded  it  to  Colonel  Cordero,  by  whom  it  was  transmitted  to  the  seat  of  gov- 
ernment. This  information  was  personally  communicated  to  me,  as  an  instance  of 
the  rapid  means  they  possessed  of  conveying  intelligence  relative  to  the  occurrences 
transacting  on  our  frontiers.  The  expedition  was  then  determined  on;  and  had  three 
objects  in  view  ;  first,  to  descend  the  Red  river,  in  order  if  they  met  our  expedition  to 
intercept  and  turn  it  back  ;  or  should  Major  Sparks  and  Mr.  Freeman  have  missed 
the  party  from  Nacogdoches,  under  the  command  of  Captain  Viana,  to  oblige  them 
to  return,  and  not  penetrate  further  into  the  country,  or  make  them  prisoners  of  war. 

Secondly,  to  explore  and  examine  all  the  internal  parts  of  the  country,  from  the 
frontiers  of  the  province  of  New  Mexico  to  the  Missouri,  between  the  La  Plate  and 
Kanses  rivers. 

Thirdly,  to  visit  the  letans,  Pawnee  republic.  Grand  Pawnees,  Pawnee  Mahaws, 
and  Kanses.  To  the  head  chief  of  each  of  these  nations,  the  commanding  officer 
bore  flags,  a  commission,  grand  medal,  four  mules  :  and  with  all  of  them  he  had  to 
renew  the  chains  of  ancient  amity,  which  was  said  to  have  existed  between  their 
father,  his  most  catholic  majesty,  and  his  children,  the  red  people. 

The  commanding  officers  also  bore  positive  orders  to  oblige  all  parties  or  persons 
in  the  above  specified  countries,  either  to  retire  from  them  into  the  acknowledged 
territories  of  the  United  States,  or  to  make  prisoners  of  them,  and  conduct  them  into 
the  province  of  New  Mexico. 

Lieut.  Don  Facundo  Malgares,  the  officer  selected  from  the  five  internal  prov- 
inces to  command  this  expedition,  was  an  European,  and  his  uncle  was  at  that  time 
one  of  the  royal  judges  of  the  kingdom  of  New  Spain.  He  had  distinguished  him- 
self in  several  long  expeditions  against  the  Appaches  and  other  Indian  nations,  with 
whom  the  Spaniards  were  at  war :  added  to  these  circumstances,  he  was  a  man  of 
immense  fortune,  and  generous  in  its  disposal,  almost  to  profusion  ;  possessed  a 
liberal  education,  a  high  sense  of  honour,  and  a  disposition  formed  for  military  enter- 
prize. 

This  officer  marched  from  the  province  of  Biscay,  with  one  hundred  dragoons  of 
the  regular  service,  and  at  Santa  Fe,  the  place  where  the  expedition  was  fitted  out, 
he  vifas  joined  by  five  hundred  of  the  mounted  militia  of  that  province,  and  completely 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  LOUISIANA.  183 

From  the  eastern  branch  of  the  Kanses  river  (by  our  route),  to  the 
Pawnee  repubHc,  on  the  Republican  fork,  the  prairies  are  low,  the  grass 
high,  the  country  abounding  with  salines,  and  the  earth  appearing  to  be 
impregnated  with  nitrous  and  common  salts.  The  immediate  borders  of 
the  Republican  fork  near  the  village  consist  of  high  ridges,  but  this  is  an 
exception  to  the  general  face  of  the  country.  All  the  territory  between 
the  forks  of  the  Kanses  river,  for  a  distance  of  one  hundred  and  sixty 
miles,  may  be  called  prairie,  notwithstanding  the  borders  of  woodland 
which  ornament  the  banks  of  those  streams,  but  are  no  more  than  a  line 
traced  on  a  sheet  of  paper  when  compared  to  the  immense  tract  of  meadow 
country.  For  some  distance  from  the  Osage  villages,  you  only  find  deer, 
then  elk,  then  cabrie,  and  finally,  buffalo.  But  it  is  worthy  of  remark, 
that  although  the  male  buffaloes  were  in  great  abundance,  yet  in  all  our 
route  from  the  Osage  to  the  Pawnees,  we  never  saw  one  female.  I 
acknowledge  myself  at  a  loss  to  determine,  whether  this  is  to  be  attributed 
to  the  decided  preference  the  savages  give  to  the  meat  of  the  female,  and 
that  consequently  they  are  almost  exterminated  in  the  hunting  grounds  of 
the  nations,  or  to  some  physical  causes,  for  I  afterwards  discovered  the 

equipped  with  ammunition,  &c.,  for  six  months ;  each  man  leading  with  him  (by 
order)  two  horses  and  one  mule.  The  whole  number  of  their  beasts  was  two  thou- 
sand and  seventy-five.  They  descended  the  Red  river  two  hundred  and  thirty-three 
leagues.  Met  the  grand  bands  of  the  letans,  held  councils  with  them  ;  then  struck 
off  to  the  north-east,  and  crossed  the  country  to  the  Arkansaw,  where  Lieut.  Mal- 
gares  left  two  hundred  and  forty  of  his  men,  with  the  lame  and  tired  horses,  whilst 
he  proceeded  on  with  the  rest  to  the  Pawnee  republic.  Here  he  was  met  by  the 
chiefs  and  warriors  of  the  Grand  Pawnees  ;  held  councils  with  the  two  nations,  and 
presented  them  the  flags,  medals,  &c.,  which  were  designed  for  them.  He  did  not  pro- 
ceed on  to  the  execution  of  his  missions  with  the  Pawnee,  Mahaws,  and  Kanses,  as  he 
represented  to  me,  from  the  poverty  of  their  horses,  and  the  discontent  of  his  own 
men ;  but  as  I  conceive,  from  the  suspicion  and  discontent  which  began  to  arise 
between  the  Spaniards  and  the  Indians.  The  former  wishing  to  revenge  the  death  of 
Villeneuve  and  his  party,  whilst  the  latter  possessed  all  the  suspicions  of  conscious 
villany,  deserving  punishment. 

Malgares  took  with  him  all  the  traders  he  found  there  from  our  country,  some  of 
whom  being  sent  to  Natchitoches,  were  in  abject  poverty  at  that  place  on  my  arrival, 
and  applied  to  me  for  means  to  return  to  St.  Louis.  Lieutenant  Malgares  returned 
to  Santa  F6  in  October,  when  his  militia  was  disbanded;  but  he  remained  in  the 
vicinity  of  that  place  until  we  were  brought  in,  when  with  his  dragoons  he  became 
our  escort  to  the  seat  of  government. 


i84  TRAVELS   THROUGH 

females  with  young  in  such  immense  herds,  as  gave  me  no  reason  to  believe 
they  yielded  to  the  males  in  numbers. 

The  Pawnees  are  a  numerous  nation  of  Indians,  residing  on  the  rivers 
Plate  and  Kanses.  They  are  divided  into  three  distinct  nations,  two  of 
them  being  now  at  war;  but  their  manners,  language,  customs,  and  improve- 
ments, are  in  the  same  degree  of  advancement.  On  the  La  Plate  reside 
the  Grand  Pawnee  village,  and  the  Pawnee  Loups  on  one  of  its  branches, 
with  whom  the  Pawnee  republicans  are  at  war.  Their  language  is  guttural, 
and  approaches  nearer  to  that  of  the  Sioux  than  the  Osage;  their  figure  is 
slim,  and  their  high  cheek  bones  clearly  indicate  their  Asiatic  origin;  but 
their  emigration  south,  and  the  ease  with  which  they  live  on  the  buffalo 
plains,  have  probably  been  the  cause  of  a  degeneracy  of  manners;  for  they 
are  neither  so  brave  nor  so  honest  as  their  more  northern  neighbours.  Their 
government  is  the  same  as  that  of  the  Osage,  an  hereditary  aristocracy; 
the  father  handing  his  dignity  of  chieftain  down  to  his  son:  but  their  power 
is  extremely  limited,  notwithstanding  the  long  life  they  have  to  establish 
their  authority  and  influence;  they  merely  recommend  and  give  council  in 
the  great  assemblage  of  the  nation.  They  are  not  so  cleanly,  neither  do 
they  carry  their  internal  police  so  far,  as  the  Osage;  but  out  of  the  bounds 
of  the  village,  it  appeared  to  me  that  they  exceeded  them,  as  I  have 
frequently  seen  two  young  soldiers  come  out  to  my  camp  and  by  the 
strokes  of  long  whips  instantly  disperse  a  hundred  persons,  who  were 
assembled  there  to  trade  with  my  men.  In  regard  to  the  cultivation  of 
the  soil,  they  are  about  equal  to  the  Osage,  raising  a  sufficiency  of  corn 
and  pumpkins  to  afford  a  little  thickening  to  their  soup  during  the  year. 
Their  pumpkins  they  cut  into  thin  slices,  and  dry  in  the  sun,  which  reduces 
them  to  a  small  size,  and  not  more  than  a  tenth  of  their  original  weight. 
With  respect  to  raising  horses,  the  Pawnees  are  far  superior  to  the  Osage, 
having  vast  numbers  of  excellent  cattle,  which  they  are  daily  increasing  by 
their  attention  to  their  breeding  mares,  which  they  never  use  for  labour; 
and  in  addition,  they  frequently  purchase  some  from  the  Spaniards.  Their 
houses  are  a  perfect  circle,  excepting  where  the  door  is  placed,  from 
whence  there  is  a  projection  of  about  fifteen  feet,  the  whole  being 
constructed  after  the  following  manner:  There  is  first  an  excavation  of  a 
circular  form,  made  in  the  ground,  of  about  four  feet  deep  and  sixty  in 
diameter,  where  there  is  a  row  of  posts,  about  five  feet  high,  with  crotchets 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  LOUISIANA.  185 

at  the  top,  set  firmly  in  all  round,  and  horizontal  poles  from  one  to  another; 
there  is  then  a  row  of  posts  forming  a  circle  of  about  ten  feet  width  in  the 
diameter  of  the  others,  and  ten  feet  in  heighth.  The  crotchets  of  these  are 
so  directed  that  horizontal  poles  are  also  laid  from  one  to  another,  long 
poles  are  then  laid  slanting  from  the  lower  poles  over  the  upper,  and 
meeting  nearly  at  the  top,  leaving  only  a  small  aperture  for  the  smoke  of 
the  fire,  which  is  made  on  the  ground  in  the  middle  of  the  lodge.  A 
number  of  small  poles  are  then  put  up  round  the  circle,  so  as  to  form  the 
wall,  and  wicker-work  ran  through  the  whole.  The  roof  is  thatched  with 
grass  and  earth,  thrown  up  against  the  wall.  Until  a  bank  is  made  to  the 
eaves;  the  thatch  is  also  covered  with  earth,  one  or  two  feet  thick,  and 
rendered  so  tight  as  entirely  to  exclude  any  storm  whatsoever,  and  make 
the  lodge  extremely  warm.  The  entrance  is  about  six  feet  wide,  with 
walls  on  each  side,  and  roofed  like  our  houses  in  shape,  but  of  the  same 
materials  as  the  main  building.  Inside  there  are  numerous  little  apart- 
ments, constructed  of  wicker-work,  against  the  wall,  with  small  doors, 
having  a  great  appearance  of  neatness;  in  these  the  members  of  the 
family  sleep,  and  have  their  little  deposits. 

Their  towns  are  by  no  means  so  much  crowded  as  the  Osage,  giving 
much  more  space;  but  they  have  the  same  practice  of  introducing  all  the 
horses  into  the  village  at  night  which  makes  it  extremely  crowded,  they 
keeping  guard  with  them  during  the  day.  They  are  extremely  addicted 
to  gaming,  and  have  for  that  purpose  a  smooth  piece  of  ground  cleared 
out  on  each  side  of  the  village,  for  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  yards  in 
length,  at  which  they  play  the  following  games:  One  is  played  by  two 
players  at  a  time,  and  in  the  following  manner:  they  have  a  large  hoop,  of 
about  four  feet  diameter,  in  the  centre  of  which  is  a  small  leather  ring 
attached  to  leather  thongs,  which  are  extended  to  the  hoop,  so  as  to  keep 
it  in  its  central  position;  they  also  have  a  pole,  of  about  six  feet  in  length, 
the  player  holding  this  in  one  hand,  rolls  the  hoop  from  him,  and  imme- 
diately slides  the  pole  after  it,  and  the  nearer  the  head  of  the  pole  lies  to  the 
small  ring  within  the  hoop,  when  they  both  fall,  the  greater  is  the  cast. 
But  I  could  not  ascertain  their  mode  of  counting  sufficiently  to  decide  when 
the  game  was  won.  Another  game  is  played  with  a  small  stick,  with 
several  hooks,  and  a  hoop  about  four  inches  diameter,  which  is  rolled 
along  the  ground,  and  the  forked  stick  darted  after  it,  when  the  value  of 


i86  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

the  cast  is  estimated  by  the  hook  on  which  the  ring  is  caught;  this  game 
is  gained  at  a  hundred.  The  third  game  alluded  to  is  that  of  La  Plate, 
described  by  various  travellers,  and  is  played  by  the  women,  children,  and 
old  men,  who,  like  grass-hoppers,  crawl  out  to  the  circus,  to  bask  in  the 
sun,  probably  covered  only  with  an  old  buffalo  robe. 

The  Pawnees,  like  the  Osage,  quit  their  villages  in  the  winter,  making 
concealments  under  ground  of  their  corn,  in  which  it  keeps  perfectly  sound 
until  spring.  The  only  nations  with  whom  the  Pawnees  are  now  at  war 
are  the  letans,  Utahs,  and  Kyaways;  the  two  latter  of  whom  reside  in  the 
mountains  of  North  Mexico;  the  former  generally  inhabiting  the  borders 
of  the  Upper  Red  River,  Arkansaw,  and  Rio  del  Norte.  The  war  has 
been  carried  on  by  those  nations  for  years,  without  any  decisive  action 
being  fought,  although  they  frequently  march  with  two  or  three  hundred 
men.  The  Pawnees  have  much  the  advantage  of  their  enemies  in  point  of 
arms,  having  at  least  one  half  fire-arms,  whilst  their  opponents  have  only 
bows,  arrows,  lances,  shields,  and  slings.  The  Pawnees  always  march  to 
war  on  foot,  their  enemies  are  all  cavalry.  This  nation  may  be  considered 
as  the  one  equi-distant  between  the  Spanish  population  and  that  of  our 
settlements  of  Louisiana,  but  are  at  present  decidedly  under  Spanish  influ- 
ence, and  should  a  war  commence  to-morrow,  would  all  be  in  their  interests. 
This  circumstance  does  not  arise  from  their  local  situation,  because  they 
are  all  situated  on  the  navigable  waters  of  the  Missouri;  nor  from  their 
interests,  because  from  the  Spaniards  they  obtain  nothing,  except  horses 
and  a  few  coarse  blankets  of  West  Mexico,  whilst  from  us  they  receive  all 
their  supplies  of  arms,  ammunition,  and  clothing;  but -all  these  articles  in 
very  small  quantities,  not  more  than  half  having  a  blanket,  many  being 
without  breech  cloths  to  cover  their  nakedness.  But  the  grand  principle 
by  which  the  Spaniards  keep  them  in  their  influence  is  fear,  frequently 
chastising  their  small  parties  on  their  frontiers.  To  this  may  be  added, 
their  sending  out  the  detachment  of  six  hundred  horsemen,  which  had 
visited  them  just  before  our  arrival.  This  has  made  such  an  impression 
that  they  may  safely  calculate  on  them  in  case  of  war.  This  detachment 
took  some  of  the  Pawnees  to  Chihuahua,  at  the  time  I  entered  the  prov- 
inces. But  by  withholding  their  supplies  of  arms,  ammunition,  and  cloth- 
ing, one  or  two  years,  bringing  on  their  backs  the  Osage  and  Kanses,  they 
would  be  in  great  distress,  and  feel  the  necessity  of  a  good  understanding 
with  the  United  States. 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  LOUISIANA.  187 

If  there  should  ever  be  factories  established  for  their  accommodation, 
they  should  be  at  the  entrance  of  the  La  Plate  and  Kanses  rivers,  as  those 
waters  are  of  so  uncertain  navigation,  being  navigable  only  in  freshes,  that 
it  would  be  folly  to  attempt  any  permanent  establishments  high  up;  and 
to  make  those  establishments  useful  to  the  Pawnees,  we  must  pre-suppose 
our  influence  sufficient  to  guarantee  to  them  peace,  and  a  safe  passage 
through  the  nations  of  the  Kanses,  Ottoes,  and  Missouries;  the  first  on  the 
Kanses  river,  the  two  latter  on  the  River  Plate. 

Friday,  26th  September . — Finding  our  encampment  not  eligible  as  to 
situation,  we  moved  down  the  prairie  hill,  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile 
nearer  the  village.  We  pitched  our  camp  upon  a  beautiful  eminence,  from 
whence  we  had  a  view  of  the  town,  and  all  transacting  in  it.  We  sent  our 
interpreter  to  town,  to  trade  for  provisions.  About  three  o'clock  in  the 
afternoon  twelve  Kanses  arrived  at  the  village,  and  informed  Baroney 
that  they  had  come  to  meet  us,  hearing  we  were  to  be  at  the  Pawnee 
village. 

The  Kanses  are  a  small  nation,  situated  on  the  river  of  that  name; 
and  are  in  language,  manners,  customs,  and  agricultural  pursuits,  precisely 
similar  to  the  Osage,  with  whom,  I  believe  them,  as  before  observed,  to 
have  one  common  origin.  It  maj'  be  said,  however,  that  their  language 
differs  in  some  degree,  but  not  more  than  the  dialect  of  our  eastern  states 
differs  from  the  southern.  But  in  war  they  are  yet  more  brave  than  their 
Osage  brethren;  being,  although  not  more  than  one-third  their  number, 
their  most  dreaded  enemies,  and  frequently  make  the  Pawnees  tremble. 

Saturday,  2'jth.  September. — Baroney  arrived  from  the  village  about 
one  o'clock,  with  Charaterick  and  three  other  chiefs,  to  all  of  whom  we 
gave  a  dinner.  I  then  made  an  appropriate  present  to  each;  after  which 
Lieutenant  Wilkinson  and  myself  accompanied  them  to  town,  where  we 
remained  a  few  hours,  and  afterwards  returned.  Appointed  to-morrow  for 
the  interview  with  the  Kanses  and  Osages. 

Sunday,  28th  September. — Held  a  council  of  the  Kanses  and  Osage, 
and  made  them  smoke  of  the  pipe  of  peace.* 

*The  following  is  the  form  of  a  convention  of  peace,  we  forwarded  to  the  Kanses 
and  Osage  nation. 

In  council  held  by  the  subscribers  at  the  village  of  the  Pawnee  republic,  appeared 
Wahonsoiigay,  with  eight  principal  soldiers  of  the  Kanses  nation  on  the  one  part,  and 


i88  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

Two  of  the  Kanses  agreed  to  accompany  us.  We  received  a  visit 
from  the  Chief  of  the  village.  Made  an  observation  on  an  emersion  of 
one  of  Jupiter's  satellites. 

Monday,  29th  September. — Held  our  grand  council  with  the  Pawnees; 
at  which  were  present  not  less  than  four  hundred  warriors.  The  circum- 
stances of  which  were  extremely  interesting.* 

Shinga-Wasa,  a  chief  of  the  Osage  nation,  with  four  of  the  warriors  of  the  Grand  and 
Little  villages  on  the  other  part;  after  having  smoked  the  pipe  of  peace,  and  buried 
past  animosities,  they  individually  and  jointly  bound  themselves  in  behalf  of  and  for 
their  respective  nations,  to  observe  a  friendly  intercourse,  and  keep  a  permanent 
peace,  and  mutually  pledge  themselves  to  use  their  every  influence  to  further  the 
commands  and  wishes  of  their  great  father. 

We,  therefore,  American  chiefs,  do  require  of  each  nation,  a  strict  observance  of 
the  above  treaty,  as  they  value  the  good  will  of  their  great  father,  the  President  of  the 
United  States. 

Done  at  our  council-fire,  at  the  Pawnee  republican  village,  the  28th  September, 
1806,  and  the  31st  year  of  American  independence. 

Signed         Z.  M.  Pike, 

J.  B.  WiLKiNson. 

*  The  notes  I  took  at  my  grand  council  held  with  the  Pawnee  nation  were  seized 
by  the  Spanish  Governor,  together  with  all  my  speeches  to  the  different  nations.  But 
it  may  be  interesting  to  observe  here  (in  case  they  should  never  be  returned),  that 
the  Spaniards  had  left  several  of  their  flags  in  this  village;  one  of  which  was  unfurled 
at  the  chief's  door  the  day  of  the  grand  council;  and  amongst  the  various  demands 
and  charges  I  made  was,  that  the  said  flag  should  be  delivered  to  me,  and  one  of 
the  United  States'  flags  be  received  and  hoisted  in  its  place.  This  probably  was 
carrying  the  pride  of  nations  a  little  too  far,  as  there  had  so  lately  been  a  large  force 
of  Spanish  cavalry  at  the  village,  which  had  made  a  great  impression  on  the  minds  of 
the  young  men,  as  to  their  power,  consequence,  &c.,  which  my  appearance  with  twenty 
infantry  was  by  no  means  calculated  to  remove.  After  the  chiefs  had  replied  to  vari- 
ous parts  of  my  discourse,  but  were  silent  as  to  the  flag,  I  again  reiterated  the  demand 
for  the  flag,  adding  that  it  was  impossible  for  the  nation  to  have  two  fathers;  that  they 
must  either  be  the  children  of  the  Spaniards  or  acknowledge  their  American  father. 
After  a  silence  of  some  time,  an  old  man  rose,  went  to  the  door,  and  took  down  the 
Spanish  flag,  and  brought  it  and  laid  it  my  feet;  and  then  received  the  American  flag, 
and  elevated  it  on  the  staff,  which  had  lately  borne  the  standard  of  his  catholic 
majesty.  This  gave  great  satisfaction  to  the  Osage  and  Kanses,  both  of  whom  decid- 
edly avow  themselves  to  be  under  the  American  protection.  Perceiving  that  every 
face  in  the  council  was  clouded  with  sorrow,  as  if  some  great  national  calamity  was 
about  to  befall  them,  I  took  up  the  contested  colours,  and  told  them,  that  as  they  had 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  LOUISIANA.  189 

Tuesday,  30th  September. — Remained  all  day  at  the  camp,  but  sent 
Baroney  to  town,  who  informed  me  on  his  return,  that  the  Chief  appeared 
to  wish  to  throw  obstacles  in  our  way.  A  great  disturbance  had  taken 
place  in  the  village,  owing  to  one  of  the  young  Pawnees  (who  had  lately 
come  from  the  United  States),  Frank,  having  taken  the  wife  of  an  Osage 
and  run  away  with  her.  The  Chief,  in  whose  lodge  the  Osage  had  put  up, 
was  extremely  enraged;  considering  it  a  breach  of  hospitality  to  a  person 
under  his  roof,  and  threatened  to  kill  Frank,  if  he  caught  him. 

Wednesday,  ist  October. — Paid  a  visit  to  town,  and  had  a  very  long 
conversation  with  the  Chief,  who  urged  every  thing  in  his  power  to  induce 
us  to  turn  back.  He  finally  very  candidly  told  us  that  the  Spaniards 
wished  to  have  gone  further  into  our  country,  but  he  had  induced  them  to 
give  up  the  idea;  that  they  had  listened  to  him,  and  he  wished  us  to  do 
the  same:  that  he  had  promised  the  Spaniards  to  act  as  he  now  did,  and 
that  we  must  proceed  no  further,  or  he  must  stop  us  by  force  of  arms.  My 
reply  was,  "  That  I  had  been  sent  out  by  our  great  Father  to  explore  the 
western  country,  to  visit  all  his  red  children,  to  makepeace  between  them, 
and  turn  them  from  shedding  blood;  that  he  had  seen  how  I  had  caused 
the  Osage  and  Kanses  to  meet  to  smoke  the  pipe  of  peace  together,  and 
take  each  other  by  the  hand  like  brothers:  that  as  yet  my  road  had  been 
smooth  with  a  blue  sky  over  our  heads.  I  had  not  seen  any  blood  in  our 
paths.  But  that  he  must  know  that  the  young  warriors  of  his  great  Amer- 
ican Father  were  not  women,  to  be  turned  back  by  words;  that  I  should 
therefore  proceed,  and  if  he  thought  proper  to  stop  me,  he  might  attempt 
it,  but  we  were  men,  well  armed,  and  would  sell  our  lives  at  a  dear  rate 
to  his  nation:  that  we  knew  our  great  Father  would  send  other  young 
warriors  there  to  gather  our  bones,  and  revenge  our  deaths  on  his  people, 
when  our  spirits  would  rejoice  in  hearing  our  exploits  sung  in  the  war- 
songs  of  our  chiefs." 

now  shewn  themselves  dutiful  children  in  acknowledging  their  great  American  father, 
I  had  no  desire  to  embarrass  them  with  the  Spaniards,  for  it  was  the  wish  of  the 
Americans,  that  their  red  brethren  should  remain  peaceably  round  their  own  fires,  and 
not  embroil  themselves  in  any  disputes  between  the  white  people:  and  that  for  fear 
the  Spaniards  might  return  there  in  force  again,  I  gave  them  back  their  flag;  but  with 
an  injunction  that  it  should  never  be  hoisted  during  our  stay.  At  this  there  was  a 
general  shout  of  applause,  and  the  charge  was  particularly  attended  to. 


igo  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

I  then  left  his  lodge  and  returned  to  camp,  in  considerable  perturba- 
tion of  mind. 

Thtirsday,  2d  October. — We  received  advice  from  our  Kanses,  that 
the  Chief  had  given  publicity  to  his  idea  of  stopping  us  by  force  of  arms  ; 
this  caused  me  some  serious  reflections,  and  was  productive  of  many  sin- 
gular expressions  from  my  brave  lads  ;  which  called  for  my  esteem  at  the 
same  time  that  they  excited  my  laughter. 

I  attempted  to  trade  for  horses,  but  could  not  succeed.  In  the  night 
we  were  alarmed  by  some  savages  coming  near  our  camp  in  full  speed  ; 
but  they  retreated  equally  expeditiously,  on  being  .hailed  with  fierceness 
by  our  sentinels.  This  created  some  degree  of  indignation  in  my  little 
band,  as  we  had  noticed  that  all  the  day  had  passed  without  any  traders 
presenting  themselves,  which  appeared  as  if  all  intercourse  were  inter- 
dicted !  Wrote  to  the  Secretary  at  War,  the  General,  &c. 

Friday,  3d  October. — The  intercourse  again  commenced.  Traded  for 
some  horses.     Writing  for  my  express. 

Saturday,  4th  October. — Two  French  traders  arrived  at  the  village  in 
order  to  procure  horses,  to  transport  their  goods  from  the  Missouri  to  the 
village  :  they  gave  us  information  that  Captains  Lewis  and  Clarke,  with  all 
their  people,  had  descended  the  river  to  St.  Louis;  this  diffused  general 
joy  throughout  our  party.     Our  trade  for  horses  did  not  proceed  this  day. 

Sunday,  5th  October. — Buying  horses,  preparing  to  march,  and  finish- 
ing my  letters.* 

Monday,  6th  October. — Marched  off  my  express,  purchased  horses, 
and  prepared  to  resume  my  journey  on  the  morrow. 

Tuesday,  7th  October. — In  the  morning  found  two  of  our  newly  pur- 
chased horses  missing;  sent  in  search  of  them:  the  Indians  brought  in  one 
pretty  early.  Struck  our  tents  and  commenced  loading  our  horses :  find- 
ing there  was  no  probability  of  our  obtaining  the  other  that  was  missing, 
we  marched  at  two  o'clock  P.  M.,  and  as  the  Chief  had  threatened  to  stop 
us  by  force  of  arms,  we  had  made  every  arrangement  to  make  him  pay 
as  dearly  for  the  attempt  as  possible.  The  party  was  kept  compact,  and 
marched  on  by  a  road  round  the  village,  in  order  that  if  attacked  the  sav- 
ages might  not  have  their  houses  to  retreat  to  for  cover.  I  had  given 
orders  not  to  fire  until  within  five  or  six  paces,  and  then  to  charge   with 

*  See  Appendix,  No.  VIII. 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  LOUISIANA.  191 

bayonet  and  sabre ;  when  I  believe  it  would  have  cost  them  at  least  one 
hundred  men  to  have  exterminated  us  (which  would  have  been  necessary). 
The  village  appeared  to  be  all  in  motion.  I  galloped  up  to  the  lodge  of 
the  Chief  attended  by  my  interpreter  and  one  soldier ;  but  soon  saw  there 
was  no  serious  attempt  to  be  made,  although  many  young  men  were  walk- 
ing about  with  their  bows,  arrows,  guns  and  lances.  After  speaking  to 
the  Chief  with  apparent  indifference,  I  told  him  that  I  calculated  on  his 
justice  in  obtaining  the  horse,  and  that  I  should  leave  a  man  until  the  next 
day  at  twelve  o'clock  to  bring  it  after  me.  We  then  joined  the  party  and 
pursued  our  route.  When  I  was  once  on  the  summit  of  the  hill  which  over- 
looks the  village,  my  mind  felt  as  if  relieved  from  a  heavy  burthen.  Yet 
all  the  evil  I  wished  the  Pawnees  was,  that  I  might  be  the  instrument  in 
the  hands  of  our  government  to  open  their  ears  and  ey^s,  and  with  a  strong 
hand,  to  convince  them  of  our  power. 

Our  party  now  consisted  of  two  officers,  one  doctor,  eighteen  soldiers, 
one  interpreter,  three  Osage  men  and  one  woman,  making  twenty-five 
warriors.  We  marched  out  and  encamped  on  a  small  branch.  Distance 
advanced,  seven  miles,  along  the  same  route  by  which  we  had  come  in. 
Rain  in  the  night. 

Wednesday,  8th  October. — I  conceived  it  best  to  send  Baroney  back  to 
the  village  with  a  present,  to  be  offered  for  our  horse  ;  the  Chief  having  sug- 
gested the  propriety  of  the  measure.  On  his  way  he  met  his  son  and 
Sparks  with  the  horse.  Marched  at  ten  o'clock,  and  at  four  came  to  the 
place  where  the  Spanish  troops  had  encamped  the  first  night  after  they 
had  left  the  village  of  the  Pawnees.  Their  encampment  was  circular,  and 
having  only  small  fires  round  the  circle  for  the  purpose  of  cooking.  We 
counted  fifty-nine  fires;  so  that  allowing  six  men  to  each,  the  party  must 
have  comprised  three  hundred  and  fifty-four  persons.  We  encamped  on  a 
large  branch  of  the  second  fork  of  the  Kanses  river.  Distance  advanced, 
eighteen  miles. 

Thursday,  9th  October. — Marched  at  eight  o'clock,  being  detained 
until  that  time  by  our  horses  being  at  a  great  distance.  At  eleven  o'clock 
we  found  the  forks  of  the  Spanish  and  Pawnee  roads,  and  when  we  halted 
at  twelve  o'clock,  we  were  overtaken  by  the  second  chief  (Iskatappe)  and 
the  American  chief,  with  one-third  of  the  village.  They  presented  us  with 
a  piece  of  bear  meat.     When  we  were  about    to  proceed  we    discovered 


192  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

that  Dr.  Robinson's  dirk  had  been  stolen  from  behind  his  saddle.  After 
marching  the  men,  the  Doctor  and  myself  with  the  interpreter  went  to  the 
Chief  and  demanded  that  he  should  cause  a  search  to  be  made.  This  was 
done,  but  when  the  dirk  was  found  the  possessor  asserted  that  he  had 
found  it  on  the  road.  I  told  him  that  he  did  not  speak  the  truth ;  and 
informed  the  Chief  that  we  never  suffered  a  thing  of  ever  so  little  value  to 
be  taken  without  permission:  at  this  time  the  prairie  was  covered  with  his 
men,  who  began  to  encircle  us,  and  Lieutenant  Wilkinson  with  the  troops 
had  gained  half  a  mile  on  the  road.  The  Indian  demanded  a  knife  before 
he  would  deliver  up  the  dirk  ;  but  as  we  refused  to  give  one,  the  Chief  took 
one  from  his  belt  and  gave  him,  I  took  the  dirk  and  presented  it  to  the 
Doctor,  who  immediately  returned  it  to  the  Chief  as  a  present,  and  desired 
Baroney  to  inform  him  that  he  might  now  see  it  was  not  the  value  of  the 
article,  but  the  act,  we  took  into  consideration  ;  we  then  galloped  off. 
After  proceeding  about  a  mile  we  discovered  a  herd  of  elk,  which  we  pur- 
sued: they  took  back  in  sight  of  the  Pawnees,  who  immediately  mounted 
fifty  or  sixty  young  men  and  joined  in  the  pursuit ;  then,  for  the  first  time 
in  my  life,  I  saw  animals  slaughtered  by  the  true  savages  with  their  orig- 
inal weapons,  bows  and  arrows.  They  buried  the  arrow  up  to  the  plume 
in  the  animal.  We  took  a  piece  of  meat  and  followed  our  party;  overtook 
them,  and  encamped  within  the  Grand  or  Solomon's  Fork,  which  we  had 
crossed  lower  down,  on  the  23d  September,  on  our  route  to  the  Paw- 
nees. This  had  been  the  Spanish  camping  ground.  In  the  evening  two 
Pawnees  came  to  our  camp  who  had  not  eaten  for  three  days:  they  had 
been  carrying  a  sick  companion,  whom  they  had  left  that  day  ;  we  gave 
them  supper,  with  some  meat  and  corn,  and  they  immediately  departed, 
in  order  to  carry  this  seasonable  supply  to  their  friend.  As  they  were 
coming  into  the  camp,  the  sentinel  challenged,  it  being  dark:  on  seeing 
him  bring  his  piece  to  the  charge,  supposing  he  was  about  to  fire  on  them, 
they  approached  to  give  him  their  hands,  he  however  not  Avell  descrying 
their  motions,  was  on  the  point  of  firing,  but  being  a  cool,  collected  little 
fellow,  called  out  that  there  were  two  Indians  on  him,  and  asked  if  he 
should  fire;  this  drew  out  the  guard,  when  the  poor  affrightened  savages 
were  brought  in,  very  much  alarmed,  for  they  had  not  heard  of  a  white 
man  being  within  their  country,  and  thought  they  were  entering  one  of 
the  camps  of  their  own  people.     Distance  advanced,  eighteen  miles. 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  LOUISIANA.  193 

Friday,  loth  October. — Marched  at  seven  o'clock,  and  halted  at 
twelve  to  dine.  Were  overtaken  by  the  Pawnee  chief,  whose  party  we 
had  left  the  day  before,  who  informed  us  the  hunting  party  had  taken 
another  road,  and  that  he  had  come  to  bid  us  good  bye.  We  left  a  large 
ridge  on  our  left,  and  at  sun-down  crossed  it.  From  this  place  we  had  an 
extensive  view  to  the  south-west ;  we  observed  a  creek  at  a  distance,  for 
which  I  meant  to  proceed.  The  Doctor,  interpreter,  and  myself  arrived  at 
eight  o'clock  at  night ;  found  water  and  wood,  but  had  nothing  to  eat. 
Kindled  a  fire,  in  order  to  guide  the  party  ;  but  they  not  being  able  to  find 
the  route,  and  not  knowing  the  distance,  encamped  on  the  prairie  without 
wood  or  water. 

Saturday,  nth  October. — Ordered  Baroney  to  return  to  find  the  party 
and  conduct  them  to  our  camp.  The  Doctor  and  myself  went  out  to  hunt, 
and  on  our  return  found  all  our  people  had  arrived  except  the  rear  guard, 
which  was  in  sight.  Whilst  we  halted,  five  Pawnees  came  to  us  and 
brought  some  bones  of  a  horse  which  the  Spanish  troops  had  been  obliged 
to  eat  at  their  encampment.  On  this  creek  we  took  up  our  line  of  march 
at  twelve  o'clock,  and  at  sun-down  the  party  halted  on  the  Saline.  I  was  in 
pursuit  of  buffalo,  and  did  not  make  the  camp  until  near  ten  o'clock  at 
night:  killed  one  buffalo:  distance  advanced,  twelve  miles. 

Sunday,  12th  October. — Here  the  Belle  Oiseau  and  one  Osage  left  us, 
and  there  remained  only  one  man  and  woman  of  that  nation.  Their  reason 
for  leaving  us  was,  that  our  course  bore  too  much  west,  and  they  desired 
to  bear  more  for  the  hunting  ground  of  the  Osage.  In  the  morning  sent 
out  to  obtain  the  bufYalo  meat,  and  laid  by  until  after  breakfast.  Proceeded 
at  eleven 'o'clock,  and  crossing  the  river  two  or  three  times  we  passed 
two  camps  where  the  Spanish  troops  had  halted.  Here  they  appeared  to 
have  remained  some  days.  Their  roads  being  so  much  blinded  by  the  traces 
of  the  buffalo,  we  lost  them  entirely.  This  was  a  mortifying  circumstance, 
as  we  had  reason  to  calculate  that  they  had  good  guides  and  were  on  the 
best  route  for  wood  and  water.  We  took  a  south-west  direction,  and 
before  night  were  fortunate  enough  to  strike  their  road  on  the  left,  and  at 
dusk  much  to  our  surprise  struck  the  eastern  fork  of  the  Kanses,  or  la 
Fourche  de  la  c6te  Boucaniere:  killed  one  buffalo:  distance  advanced, 
eighteen  miles. 

Monday,  13th  October. — The  day  being  rainy,  we  did  not  march  until 
two  o'clock,  when  there  being  an  appearance  of  the  weather  clearing,  we 


194  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

raised  our  camp;  after  which  we  marched  seven  miles,  and  halted  at  the 
head  of  a  branch  of  the  river  we  had  left.  Had  to  go  two  miles  for  water: 
killed  one  cabrie. 

Tuesday,  14th  October. — Drizzling  rain  having  fallen  all  night,  and 
the  atmosphere  being  entirely  obscured,  we  did  not  march  until  a  quarter 
past  nine  o'clock,  and  then  commenced  crossing  the  dividing  ridge  between 
the  Kanses  and  Arkansaw  rivers.  Arrived  on  a  branch  of  the  latter  at  one 
o'clock;  continued  down  it  in  search  of  water  until  after  dusk,  when  we 
found  a  pond  on  the  prairie,  which  induced  us  to  halt.  Sparks  did  not 
come  up,  being  scarcely  able  to  walk  from  rheumatic  pains:  wounded 
several  buffaloes,  but  could  get  none  of  them:  distance  advanced,  twenty- 
four  miles. 

Wednesday,  15th  October. — In  the  morning  rode  out  in  search  of  the 
Spaniards'  trace,  and  crossed  the  low  prairie,  which  was  nearly  all  covered 
with  ponds,  but  could  not  discover  it.  Finding  Sparks  did  not  arrive, 
sent  two  men  back  in  search  of  him,  who  rejoined  us  with  him  about 
eleven  o'clock.  At  twelve  we  commenced  our  line  of  march,  and  at  five 
Dr.  Robinson  and  myself  left  the  party  at  a  large  creek,  having  pointed 
out  to  Lieutenant  Wilkinson  a  distant  wood  for  our  encampment,  in 
order  to  search  some  distance  up  it  for  the  Spaniards'  trace.  Killed  two 
buffaloes,  and  left  part  of  our  clothing  with  them,  to  scare  away  the 
wolves.  Went  afterwards  in  pursuit  of  the  party.  On  our  arrival  at  the 
creek  appointed  for  the  encampment,  we  did  not  find  them.  Proceeded 
down  it  for  some  miles,  and  not  discovering  them,  we  encamped,  struck 
fire,  and  then  supped  on  the  tongue  of  one  of  our  buffaloes. 

Thtirsday,  i6th  October. — Early  on  horseback:  proceeded  up  the 
creek  some  distance,  in  search  of  our  party,  but  at  twelve  o'clock  crossed 
to  our  two  buffaloes.  Found  a  great  many  wolves  at  them,  notwithstand- 
ing the  precaution  taken  to  keep  them  off.  Cooked  some  marrow  bones, 
and  again  mounted  our  horses,  and  proceeded  down  the  creek.  Finding 
nothing  of  the  party,  I  began  to  be  seriously  alarmed  for  their  safety. 
Killed  two  more  buffaloes,  made  our  encampment,  and  feasted  sumptuously 
on  the  marrow  bones.     Rain  in  the  night. 

Friday,  17th  October. — Rose  early,  determined  to  search  the  creek  to 
its  source.  Very  hard  rain  accompanied  by  a  cold  north  wind  all  day. 
Encamped  near   night,  without  being  able  to  discover  any  signs  of  the 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  LOUISIANA.  195 

party.  Our  sensations  now  became  excruciating,  not  only  on  account  of 
their  personal  safety,  but  the  fear  of  the  failure  of  the  national  objects 
intended  to  be  accomplished  by  the  expedition;  and  our  own  situation  was 
not  the  most  agreeable,  not  having  more  than  four  rounds  of  ammunition 
each:  and  being  four  hundred  miles  in  the  nearest  direction  from  the  first 
civilized  inhabitants.  We  however  concluded  to  search  for  them  on  the 
morrow,  and  if  we  did  not  succeed  in  finding  them,  to  strike  for  the  Arkan- 
saw,  where  we  were  in  hopes  of  discovering  some  traces  of  them,  if  they 
were  not  cut  off  by  the  savages. 

Saturday,  i8th  October. — Commenced  our  route  at  an  early  hour,  and 
about  ten  o'clock  discovered  two  men  on  horseback  in  search  of  us,  one  my 
attendant.  They  informed  us  the  party  was  encamped  on  the  Arkansaw, 
about  three  miles  south  of  where  we  then  were.  This  surprised  us  very 
much,  as  we  had  no  conception  of  that  river  being  so  near.  On  our  arrival 
we  were  met  by  Lieutenant  Wilkinson,  who,  with  all  the  party,  was  greatly 
concerned  for  our  safety. 

In  the  afternoon  the  Doctor  and  myself  took  our  horses  and  crossed  the 
Arkansaw,  in  order  to  search  for  some  trees  which  might  answer  the  pur- 
pose to  make  canoes  ;  found  but  one  and  returned  at  dusk.  It  commenced 
raining  at  twelve  o'clock  at  night. 

Sunday,  19th  October. — Finding  the  river  rising  rapidly,  I  thought  it 
best  to  secure  our  passage  over;  we  consequently  made  it  good  by  ten 
o'clock  A.  M.:  rain  all  day.  Prepared  our  tools  and  arms  for  labour  and 
the  chase  on  the  morrow. 

From  the  Pawnee  town  on  the  Kanses  river  to  the  Arkansaw,  the 
country  may  almost  be  termed  mountainous;  but  a  want  of  timber  gives 
the  hills  less  claim  to  the  appellation  of  mountains;  they  are  watered  and 
created  as  it  were  by  the  various  branches  of  the  Kanses  river.  One  of 
those  branches,  a  stream  of  considerable  magnitude,  say  twenty  yards, 
which  I  have  designated  on  the  chart  by  the  name  of  the  Saline,  was  so 
salt  at  the  place  where  we  crossed  it,  on  our  route  to  the  Arkansaw,  that 
it  salted  sufficiently  the  soup  of  the  meat  which  my  men  boiled  in  it.  We 
were  at  this  place  very  eligibly  situated,  had  a  fresh  spring  issuing  from  a 
bank  near  us;  plenty  of  the  necessaries  of  life  all  around,  viz.,  buffalo,  a 
beautiful  little  sugar  loaf  hill,  for  a  look-out  post,  fine  grass  for  our  horses, 
and  a  saline  in  front  of  us.     As  you  approach  the  Arkansaw,  on  this  route, 


196  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

within  fifteen  or  twenty  miles,  the  country  appears  to  be  low  and  swampy, 
or  the  land  is  covered  with  ponds  extending  out  from  the  river  some  dis- 
tance. The  river  at  the  place  where  we  struck  it,  is  nearly  five  hundred 
yards  wide,  from  bank  to  bank ;  those  banks  not  more  than  four  feet  high, 
thinly  covered  with  cotton  wood.  The  north  side  is  a  swampy  low  prairie, 
and  the  south  a  sandy  sterile  desert, 

Monday,  20th  October. — We  commenced  our  labour  at  two  trees  for 
canoes,  but  one  proved  too  much  doated.  Killed  two  buffaloes  and  one 
cabrie.  Discharged  our  guns  at  a  mark,  the  best  shot  a  prize  of  one  vest 
and  a  pair  of  shoes.  Our  only  dog  was  standing  at  the  root  of  the  tree,  in 
the  grass,  and  one  of  the  balls  struck  him  on  the  head,  and  killed  him. 
Ceased  raining  about  twelve  o'clock. 

Tuesday,  21st  October. — Dr.  Robinson  and  myself  mounted  our  horses 
in  order  to  eo  down  the  river  to  the  entrance  of  the  three  last  creeks  we 
had  crossed  in  our  route,  but  meeting  with  buffaloes,  we  killed  four.  Re- 
turned to  camp  and  sent  for  the  meat.     Killed  also  one  cabrie. 

Wednesday,  2 2d  October. — Having  sat  up  very  late  the  last  evening, 
expecting  the  sergeant  and  party,  who  did  not  arrive,  we  became  very 
anxious  on  their  account;  but  about  ten  o'clock  Bradley  arrived  and 
informed  us  that  they  could  not  find  the  buffalo  which  we  had  killed  on 
the  prairie.  They  all  arrived  however  before  noon,  and  in  the  afternoon 
we  scaffolded  some  meat,  and  nearly  completed  the  frame  of  a  skin  canoe, 
which  we  had  resolved  to  build.  Overhauled  my  instruments,  and  made 
some  rectifications  preparatory  to  taking  an  observation. 

Thursday,  23d  October. — Dr.  Robinson  and  myself,  accompanied  by 
one  man,  ascended  the  river  with  an  intention  of  searching  for  the 
Spanish  trace.  At  the  same  time  we  despathed  Baroney  and  our  two 
hunters  to  kill  some  buffaloes,  to  obtain  the  skins  for  canoes.  We  ascended 
the  river  about  twenty  miles  to  a  large  branch  on  the  right.  Just  at 
dusk  gave  chase  to  a  buffalo;  and  were  obliged  to  shoot  nineteen  balls 
into  him  before  we  killed  him.     Encamped  in  the  fork. 

Friday,  24th  October. —  We  ascended  the  right  hand  branch  about 
five  miles,  but  could  not  see  any  signs  of  the  Spanish  trace;  this  is  not  sur- 
prising as  the  river  bears  south-west,  and  they  no  doubt  kept  more  to  the 
west,  from  the  head  of  one  branch  to  another.     We  returned,  and  on  our 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  LOUISIANA.  197 

way  killed  some  prairie  squirrels,  or  wish-ton-wishes,  and  nine  large  rattle- 
snakes, which  frequent  their  villages.* 

*  The  wish-ton-wish  of  the  Indians,  the  prairie  dogs  of  some  travellers,  or  squirrels, 
as  I  should  be  inclined  to  denominate  them,  reside  on  the  prairies  of  Louisiana  in 
towns  or  villages,  having  an  evident  police  established  in  their  communities. 

The  sites  of  their  towns  are  generally  on  the  brow  of  a  hill,  near  some  small  creek 
or  pond,  in  order  to  be  convenient  for  water,  and  that  the  high  ground  which  they 
inhabit  may  not  be  subject  to  inundation.  Their  residence,  being  under  ground,  is 
burrowed,  and  the  earth  brought  out  is  made  to  answer  the  double  purpose  of  keep- 
ing out  the  water  and  affording  an  elevated  place  in  wet  seasons  to  repose  on,  and 
to  give  them  a  further  and  more  distinct  view  of  the  country.  Their  holes  descend 
in  a  spiral  form,  on  which  account  I  could  never  ascertain  their  depth;  but  I  once  had 
a  hundred  and  forty  kettles  of  water  poured  into  one  of  them,  in  order  to  drive  out 
the  occupant,  but  without  effect.  In  the  circuit  of  the  villages  they  clear  off  all  the 
grass,  and  leave  the  earth  bare  of  vegetation;  but  whether  this  be  from  an  instinct 
they  possess  inclining  them  to  keep  the  ground  thus  cleared,  or  whether  they  make 
use  of  the  herbage  as  food,  I  cannot  pretend  to  determine.  The  latter  opinion  I  think 
is  entitled  to  a  preference,  as  their  teeth  designate  them  to  be  of  the  granivorous 
species,  and  I  know  of  no  other  substance  which  is  produced  in  the  vicinity  of  their 
stations,  on  which  they  could  subsist;  for  they  never  extend  their  excursions  more 
than  half  a  mile  from  the  burrows.  They  are  of  a  dark  brown  colour,  except  their 
bellies,  which  are  white;  their  tails  are  not  so  long  as  those  of  our  grey  squirrels,  but 
are  shaped  precisely  the  same.  Their  teeth,  head,  nails,  and  body  are  those  of  the 
perfect  squirrel,  except  that  they  are  generally  fatter  than  that  animal.  Their  vil- 
lages sometimes  extend  over  two  and  three  miles  square,  in  which  there  must  be 
innumerable  hosts  of  them,  as  there  is  generally  a  burrow  every  ten  steps,  containing 
two  or  more  inhabitants,  and  you  see  new  ones  partly  excavated  on  all  the  borders  of 
the  town.  We  killed  great  numbers  of  these  animals  with  our  rifles,  and  found  them 
excellent  meat  after  they  were  exposed  a  night  or  two  to  the  frost,  by  which  means 
the  rankness  acquired  by  their  subterraneous  dwelling  is  corrected.  As  you  approah 
their  towns  you  are  saluted  on  all  sides  by  the  cry  of  wish-ton- wish,  from  which  they 
derive  their  name  with  the  Indians,  uttered  in  a  shrill  and  piercing  manner.  You 
then  observe  them  all  retreating  to  the  entrance  of  their  burrows,  where  they  post 
themselves  and  watch  even  the  slightest  movement  that  you  make.  It  requires  a  very 
nice  shot  with  a  rifle  to  kill  them,  as  they  must  be  shot  dead,  for  as  long  as  life  exists 
they  continue  to  work  into  their  cells.  It  was  extremely  dangerous  to  pass  through 
their  towns,  as  they  abounded  with  rattle-snakes,  both  of  the  yellow  and  black  species, 
and,  strange  as  it  may  appear,  I  have  seen  the  wish-ton-wish,  the  rattle-snake,  the 
horn-frog  with  which  the  prairie  abounds  (termed  by  the  Spaniards  the  camelion, 
from  their  taking  no  visible  sustenance),  and  a  land  tortoise,  all  take  refuge  in  the 
same  hole.  I  do  not  pretend  to  assert,  that  it  was  their  common  place  of  resort,  but  I 
have  witnessed  the  fact  in  more  than  one  instance. 


198  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

On  our  arrival  found  the  hunters  had  come  in  about  one  hour  with 
two  buffalo  skins  and  one  elk  skin. 

Saturday,  25th  October. —  Took  an  observation.  Passed  the  day  in 
writing  and  preparing  for  the  departure  of  Lieutenant  Wilkinson. 

Sunday,  26th  October. — Delivered  out  a  ration  of  corn  by  way  of  dis- 
tinction of  the  Sabbath.     Prepared  for  our  departure. 

Monday,  27th  October. — Delivered  to  Lieutenant  Wilkinson  letters 
for  the  General*  and  our  friends,  with  other  papers,  consisting  of  his 
instructions,  traverse  tables  of  our  voyage,  and  a  draft  of  our  route  to  that 
place  complete,  in  order  that  if  we  were  lost,  and  he  arrived  in  safety, 
we  might  not  have  made  the  tour  without  some  benefit  to  our  country. 
He  took  with  him  in  corn  and  meat  twenty-one  days'  provision,  and  all  the 
necessary  tools  for  building  canoes  or  cabins.  Launched  his  canoes.  We 
concluded  we  should  separate  in  the  morning;  he  to  descend  the  river,  and 
we  to  ascend  it  to  the  mountains. 

Tuesday,  28th  October. — All  was  in  motion  as  soon  as  possible,  my 
party  crossing  the  river  to  the  north  side,  and  Lieutenant  Wilkinson 
launching  his  canoes  of  skins  and  wood.  We  breakfasted  together,  and 
then  filed  off.  I  suffered  my  party  to  march,  and  remained  myself  to  see 
Lieutenant  Wilkinson  sail,  which  he  did  at  ten  o'clock,  having  one  skin 
canoe  made  of  four  buffalo  skins,  and  two  elk  skins,  which  held  three  men 
besides  himself,  and  one  Osage;  and  a  wooden  canoe,  in  which  were  one 
soldier,  one  Osage,  and  their  baggage:  one  other  soldier  marched  on  shore. 
We  parted  with  "  God  bless  you,"  from  both  parties;  they  appeared  to  sail 
very  well.f 

In  the  pursuit  of  our  party.  Dr.  Robinson,  Baroney,  one  soldier,  and 
myself  killed  a  blaireau,  and  a  buffalo;  of  the  latter  we  took  only  his  mar- 
row bones  and  liver.  Arrived  where  our  men  had  encamped  about  dusk. 
Distance  advanced,  fourteen  miles. 

Wednesday,  29th  October. — March  after  breakfast,  and  during  the  first 
hour  passed  two  fires,  where  twenty-one  Indians  had  recently  encamped, 
in  which  party,  as  appeared  by  their  paintings  on  the  rocks,  there  were 
seven  guns.     Killed  a  buffalo.     Halted,  made  a  fire,  and  feasted  on  the 

*  See  Appendix,  No.  IX. 

f  For  an  account  of  Lieutenant  Wilkinson's  voyage  down  the  Arkansaw,  see 
Appendix,  No.  X. 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  LOUISIANA.  199 

choicest  pieces  of  meat.  About  noon  discovered  two  horses  feeding  with 
a  herd  of  buffaloes;  we  attempted  to  surround  them,  but  they  soon  out- 
stript  our  fleetest  coursers;  one  appeared  to  be  an  elegant  animal.  These 
were  the  first  wild  horses  we  had  seen. 

Two  or  three  hours  before  night  struck  the  Spanish  road,  and  as  it 
was  snowing,  halted,  and  encamped  the  party  at  the  first  wood  on  the  bank 
of  the  river.  The  Doctor  and  myself  forded  it  (the  ice  running  very  thick), 
in  order  to  discover  the  course  the  Spaniards  had  taken,  but  owing  to  the 
many  buffalo  roads,  we  could  not  ascertain  it;  but  it  evidently  appeared 
that  they  had  halted  here  some  time,  as  the  ground  was  covered  with  horse 
dung  for  miles  around.  Returned  to  camp.  The  snow  fell  two  inches 
deep,  and  then  it  cleared  up.     Distance  advanced,  twelve  miles. 

Thursday,  30th  October. — In  the  morning  sent  out  to  kill  a  buffalo,  to 
have  his  marrow  bones  for  breakfast,  which  was  accomplished.  After 
breakfast  the  party  marched  upon  the  north  side,  and  the  Doctor  and 
myself  crossed  with  considerable  difficulty,  on  account  of  the  ice,  to  the 
Spaniards'  course,  when  we  took  a  large  circuit,  in  order  to  discover 
the  Spaniards'  trace,  and  came  in  at  a  point  of  wood,  south  of  the  river, 
where  we  found  our  party  encamped.  We  discovered  also,  that  the  Spanish 
troops  had  marched  up  the  river,  and  that  a  party  of  savages  had  been 
there  not  more  than  three  days  before.  Killed  two  buffaloes.  Distance 
advanced,  four  miles. 

Friday,  31st  October. — Fine  day.  Marched  at  three-quarters  past 
nine  o'clock  on  the  Spanish  road.  Encamped,  sun  an  hour  high,  after 
having  made  sixteen  miles.  We  observed  this  day  a  species  of  congelation 
on  the  road,  when  the  sun  was  high,  in  low  places  where  there  had  been 
water  settled:  on  tasting,  found  it  to  be  salt;  this,  in  my  estimation,  gave  some 
authority  to  the  report  of  the  prairie  being  covered  for  leagues.  Discov- 
ered the  trace  of  about  twenty  savages,  who  had  followed  our  road;  and 
horses  going  down  the  river.     Killed  one  buffalo,  one  elk,  and  one  deer. 

Saturday,  ist  November. — Marched  early  :  just  after  commencing  our 
line,  heard  a  gun  on  our  left.  The  Doctor,  Baroney,  and  myself  being  in 
advance,  and  lying  on  the  ground  waiting  for  the  party,  a  band  of  cabrie 
came  up  amongst  our  horses,  to  satisfy  their  curiosity.  We  could  not 
resist  the  temptation  of  killing  two,  although  we  had  plenty  of  meat.  At 
the  report  of  the  guns  they  appeared  astonished,  and  stood  still  until  we 


200  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

hallooed  at  them  to  drive  them  away.  Encamped  in  the  evening  on  an 
island.  Upon  using  my  glass  to  view  the  adjacent  country,  I  observed  on 
the  prairie  a  herd  of  horses.  Dr.  Robinson  and  Baroney  accompanied 
me  to  go  and  examine  them  ;  when  within  about  quarter  of  a  mile,  they 
discovered  us,  and  immediately  approached,  making  the  earth  tremble 
under  them  ;  they  brought  to  my  recollection  a  charge  of  cavalry.  They 
stopped  and  gave  us  an  opportunity  to  view  them.  Amongst  them  there 
were  some  very  beautiful  bays,  blacks,  and  greys,  and  indeed  of  all  colors. 
We  fired  at  a  black  horse  with  an  idea  of  creasing  him,  but  did  not  suc- 
ceed ;  they  flourished  round  and  returned  again  to  view  us.  We  then 
returned  to  camp. 

Sunday,  2d  November. — In  the  morning,  for  the  purpose  of  trying  the 
experiment,  we  equipped  six  of  our  fleetest  coursers  with  riders,  and  ropes 
to  noose  the  wild  horses,  if  in  our  power  to  come  amongst  the  herd. 
They  stood  until  we  approached  within  forty  yards,  neighing  and  whinny- 
ing, when  the  chase  began,  which  we  continued  two  miles  without  success. 
Two  of  our  horses  ran  up  with  them,  but  we  could  not  take  them.  Re- 
turned to  camp.  I  have  since  laughed  at  our  folly  for  endeavouring  to  take 
the  wild  horses  in  that  manner,  which  is  scarcely  ever  attempted  even  with 
the  fleetest  animals  and  most  expert  ropers.* 

Marched  late.  The  river  turned  to  north  by  west ;  hills  changed  to 
the  north  side.  Distance  advanced,  thirteen  miles  and  a  half.  Killed  one 
buffalo. 

Monday,  3d  November. — Marched  at  ten  o'clock.  Passed  several 
herds  of  buffalo,  elk  and  some  horses,  and  other  animals,  all  travelling 
south.  The  river  bottoms  were  observed  full  of  salt  ponds,  and  the  grass 
to  be  similar  to  that  of  our  salt  meadows.  Killed  one  buffalo.  Distance 
advanced,  twenty-five  miles  and  a  half. . 

Tuesday,  4th  November. — This  day  brought  to  our  recollection  the 
fate  of  our  countrymen  at  Recovery,  when  defeated  by  the  Indians  in  the 
year  1791.  In  the  afternoon  discovered  the  north  side  of  the  river  to  be 
covered  with  animals,  which,  when  we  came  to  them,  proved  to  be  cows 
and  calves,  and  buffaloes.  I  do  not  think  it  an  exaggeration  to  say  there 
were  three  thousand  in  one  view.  It  is  worthy  of  remark,  that  in  all  the 
extent  of  country   yet  crossed,  we  never  saw  one  cow,  and  that  now  the 

*Some  account  of  these  animals  will  be  given  in  a  subsequent  part  of  this  work. 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  LOUISIANA.  201 

face  of  the  earth  appeared  to  be  covered  with  them.  Killed  one  buffalo. 
Distance  advanced,  twenty-four  miles  and  a  half. 

Wednesday,  5th  November. — Marched  at  our  usual  hour.  After  pro- 
ceeding two  miles,  shot  a  buffalo  and  two  deer,  and  halted,  which  detained 
us  so  long,  that  we  foolishly  concluded  to  halt  the  remainder  of  the  day 
and  kill  some  cows  and  calves,  which  lay  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
river.  I  took  post  on  a  hill,  and  sent  some  horsemen  over,  when  a  scene 
took  place  which  gave  a  lively  representation  of  an  engagement.  The 
herd  of  buffaloes  being  divided  into  separate  bands,  covered  the  prairie 
with  dust,  and  first  charged  on  the  one  side,  then  to  the  other,  as  the  pur- 
suit of  the  horsemen  impelled  them;  the  report  and  smoke  from  the  gups 
added  to  the  pleasure  of  the  scene,  which  in  part  compensated  for  our 
detention. 

Thursday,  6th  November. — Marched  early,  but  were  detained  two  or 
three  hours  by  the  cows  which  we  had  killed.  The  cow  buffalo  was 
equal  to  any  meat  I  ever  saw,  and  we  feasted  sumptuously  on  the  choice 
morsels.  I  will  not  attempt  to  describe  the  droves  of  animals  we  now 
saw  on  our  route,  suffice  it  to  say,  that  the  face  of  the  prairie  was  covered 
with  them  on  both  sides  of  the  river;  their  numbers  exceeded  imagination. 
Distance  advanced,  sixteen  miles. 

Friday,  7th  November. — Marched  early.  The  herbage  being  very  poor, 
concluded  to  lay  by  on  the  morrow,  in  order  to  recruit  our  horses.  Killed 
three  cow  buffaloes,  one  calf,  two  wolves  and  one  blaireau.  Distance 
advanced,  eighteen  miles. 

Saturday,  8th  November. — Our  horses  being  very  much  jaded,  and 
our  situation  very  eligible,  we  halted  all  day.  Jerked  meat,  mended  our 
mockinsons,  &c. 

Sunday,  9th  November. — Marched  early.  At  twelve  o'clock  struck 
the  Spanish  road,  which  had  been  on  the  outside  of  us;  it  appeared  to  be 
considerably  augmented,  and  on  our  arrival  at  the  Spanish  camp,  found  it 
to  consist  of  ninety-six  fires,  from  which  a  reasonable  conclusion  might  be 
drawn  that  there  were  from  six  l^o  seven  hundred  men. 

We  this  day  found  the  face  of  the  country  considerably  changed, 
being  hilly,  with  springs.  Passed  numerous  herds  of  buffaloes  and  some 
horses.     Distance  advanced,  twenty-seven  miles. 

Monday,  loth  November. — The  hills  increased;  the  banks  of  the  river 


202  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

were  covered  with  groves  of  young  cotton  wood;  the  river  itself  much  nar- 
rower and  crooked.  Our  horses  growing  weak,  two  gave  out,  which  we 
brought  along  unloaded.  Cut  down  trees  at  night  for  them  to  browse  on. 
Killed  one  buffalo.     Distance  advanced,  twenty  miles. 

Tuesday,  nth.  November. — Marched  at  the  usual  hour.  Passed  two 
old  camps,  and  one  of  last  summer,  which  had  belonged  to  the  savages, 
and  we  supposed  letans.*  Passed  a  Spanish  camp,  where  it  appeared 
the  party  had  remained  some  days,  as  we  conjectured,  to  lay  up  meat,  pre- 
viously to  entering  the  letan  country,  as  the  buffalo  evidently  began  to 
grow  much  less  numerous.  Finding  the  impossibility  of  performing  the 
tour  in  the  time  proposed.  I  determined  to  spare  no  pains  to  accomplish 
every  object  I  had  in    contemplation,  even  should  it   oblige  me  to    spend 

*  The  letans,  or  Camanches,  as  the  Spaniards  term  them,  or  Padoucas  as  they  are 
called  by  the  Pawnees,  are  a  powerful  nation  which  are  entirely  erratic,  without  the 
least  species  of  cultivation,  subsisting  solely  by  the  chase.  Their  wanderings  are  con- 
fined to  the  frontiers  of  New  Mexico  on  the  west,  the  nations  on  the  Lower  Red 
river  on  the  south,  the  Pawnees  and  Osage  on  the  east,  and  the  Utahs,  Kyaways  and 
various  unknown  nations  on  the  north.  This  nation,  although  entirely  in  our  terri- 
tories, is  claimed  exclusively  by  the  Spaniards,  and  may  be  said  to  be  decidedly  in 
their  interest,  notwithstanding  the  few  who  lately  paid  a  visit  to  Natchitoches.  They 
are  the  only  nation  who  border  on  the  Spanish  settlements,  which  that  government 
treats  as  an  independent  people.  They  are  by  the  Spaniards  reputed  brave;  indeed 
they  have  given  them  some  very  strong  evidences  of  this. 

When  I  first  entered  the  province  of  New  Mexico,  I  was  shewn  various  deserted 
villages  and  towns  beaten  down,  which  had  been  destroyed  by  the  letans  in  an  inva- 
sion of  that  province,  when  they  were  at  war  with  the  Spaniards  about  ten  years  since. 
From  the  village  of  Agua  Caliente  they  carried  off  at  one  time  two  hundred  head  of 
horses,  but  they  are  now  on  an  excellent  understanding  with  the  Spaniards,  which 
Don  Faciendo  Malgares's  late  expedition  has  served  very  much  to  strengthen.  He  per- 
sonally related  his  rencontre  with  the  letans  in  the  following  manner: — Having  been 
previously  apprised  of  each  other's  approximation,  and  appointed  a  time  for  the 
Indians  to  receive  him  on  an  extensive  prairie,  he  sallied  forth  from  his  camp  with  five 
hundred  men  all  on  white  horses,  excepting  himself  and  his  two  principal  officers, 
who  rode  jet  black  ones,  and  was  received  on  the  plain  by  one  thousand  five  hundred 
of  those  savages,  dressed  in  their  gay  robes  and-displaying  their  various  feats  of  chiv- 
alry. I  leave  this  subject  to  the  judicious,  whether  the  circumstance  would  not  be 
handed  down  to  the  latest  posterity,  as  an  instance  of  the  good  will  and  respect  which 
the  Spaniards  paid  their  nation,  as  no  doubt  Malgares  had  policy  sufficient  to  induce 
them  to  believe  that  the  expedition  was  fitted  out  principally  with  the  view  of  paying 
them  a  visit. 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  LOUISIANA.  203 

another  winter  in  the  desert.  Killed  one  buffalo  and  one  blaireau.  Dis- 
tance advanced,  twenty-four  miles. 

Wednesday,  12th  November. —  Was  obliged  to  leave  two  horses  which 
entirely  gave  out.  Missed  the  Spanish  road.  Killed  one  buffalo.  Dis- 
tance advanced,  twenty  miles. 

Thursday,  13th  November. —  We  marched  at  the  usual  hour.  The 
river  banks  began  to  be  entirely  covered  with  woods  on  both  sides,  but  no 
other  species  than  cotton  wood.  Discovered  very  fresh  signs  of  Indians, 
and  one  of  our  hunters  informed  me  he  had  seen  a  man  on  horseback 
ascending  a  ravine  on  our  left.  Discovered  signs  of  war  parties  ascending 
the  river.  Wounded  several  buffaloes ;  killed  one  turkey,  the  first  we  had 
seen  since  we  left  the  Pawnees. 

Friday,  i^ih  November. —  In  the  morning  Dr.  Robinson,  one  man, 
and  myself,  went  up  the  ravine  on  which  the  Indian  was  supposed  to  have 
been  seen,  but  could  make  no  important  discovery.  Marched  at  two 
o'clock,  and  passed  a  point  of  red  rocks,  and  one  large  creek.  Distance 
advanced,  ten  miles. 

Saturday,  15th  November. —  Marched  early.  Passed  two  deep  creeks, 
and  many  high  points  of  rocks  ;  also,  large  herds  of  buffaloes.  At  two 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  I  thought  I  could  distinguish  a  mountain  to  our 
right,  which  appeared  like  a  small  blue  cloud ;  viewed  it  with  the  spy  glass, 
and  was  still  more  confirmed  in  my  conjecture,  yet  only  communicated  it  to 
Dr.  Robinson,  who  was  in  front  with  me,  but  in  half  an  hour  it  appeared 
in  full  view  before  us.  When  our  small  party  arrived  on  the  hill,  they 
with  one  accord  gave  three  cheers  to  the  Mexican  mountains.  Their 
appearance  can  easily  be  imagined  by  those  who  have  crossed  the  Alle- 
ghany, but  their  sides  were  white  as  if  covered  with  snow,  or  a  white  stone. 
These  proved  to  be  a  spur  of  the  grand  western  chain  of  mountains, 
which  divide  the  waters  of  the  Pacific  from  those  of  the  Atlantic  Ocean, 
and  divided  the  waters  which  empty  into  the  bay  of  the  Holy  Spirit,  from 
those  of  the  Mississippi,  as  the  Alleghany  do  those  that  discharge  them- 
selves into  the  latter  river,  and  the  Atlantic.  They  appeared  to  present  a 
boundarybetween  the  province  of  Louisiana  and  North  Mexico,  and  would 
be  a  defined  and  natural  limit.  Before  evening  we  discovered  a  fork  on 
the  south  side,  bearing  S.  25°  W.  and  as  the  Spanish  troops  appeared  to 
have  borne  up  it,  we  encamped  on  its  banks,  about  one  mile   from  its 


204  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

confluence,  that  we  might  make  further  discoveries  on  the  morrow.  Killed 
three  buffaloes.     Distance  advanced,  twenty-four  miles. 

Sunday,  i6th  November. — After  ascertaining  that  the  Spanish  troops 
had  ascended  the  right  branch  or  main  river,  we  marched  at  two  o'clock 
P.  M.  The  Arkansaw  appeared  at  this  place  to  be  much  more  navigable  than 
below  where  we  had  first  struck  it,  and  for  any  impediment  I  have  yet  dis- 
covered in  the  river,  I  would  not  hesitate  to  embark  in  February  at  its 
mouth,  and  ascend  to  the  Mexican  mountains,  with  crafts  properly  con- 
structed.    Distance  advanced,  eleven  miles  and  a  half. 

Monday,  17th  Novetnber. —  Marched  at  our  usual  hour:  pushed  on 
with  an  idea  of  arriving  at  the  mountains,  but  found  at  night  no  visible 
difference  in  their  appearance  from  what  we  had  observed  yesterday. 
One  of  our  horses  gave  out  and  was  left  in  a  ravine,  not  being  able  to 
ascend  the  hill;  but  I  sent  back  for  him,  and  had  him  brought  to  the  camp. 
Distance  advanced,  twenty-three  miles  and  a  half. 

Tuesday,  i8th  November. —  As  we  discovered  fresh  signs  of  the 
savages,  we  concluded  it  best  to  stop  and  kill  some  meat,  for  fear  we 
should  get  into  a  country  where  we  could  not  obtain  game.  Sent  out  the 
hunters.  I  walked  myself  to  an  eminence,  from  whence  I  took  the  courses 
to  the  different  mountains,  and  a  small  sketch  of  their  appearance.  In  the 
evening  found  the  hunters  had  killed  without  mercy,  having  slain  seventeen 
buffaloes,  and  wounded  at  least  twenty  more. 

Wednesday  19th  November. — Having  several  carcasses  brought  in,  I 
gave  out  sufficient  meat  to  last  this  month.  I  found  it  expedient  to  remain 
and  dry  the  meat,  for  our  horses  were  getting  very  weak,  and  the  one  died 
which  was  brought  in  yesterday.  Had  a  general  feast  of  marrow  bones  ; 
one  hundred  and  thirty-six  of  them  furnishing  the  repast. 

Thursday,  20th  November. — Marched  at  our  usual  hour,  but  as  our 
horses'  loads  were  considerably  augmented  by  the  death  of  one,  and  the 
addition  of  nine  hundred  pounds  of  meat,  we  moved  slowly,  and  made  only 
eighteen  miles.     Killed  two  buffalo  cows,  and  took  some  choice  pieces. 

Friday,  21st  November. — Marched  at  our  usual  hour:  passed  two 
Spanish  camps  within  three  miles  of  each  other.  We  again  discovered  the 
tracks  of  two  men  who  had  ascended  the  river  yesterday.  This  caused  us 
to  move  with  caution,  but  at  the  same  time  increased  our  anxiety  to  dis- 
cover them.     The  river  was  certainly  as  navigable  here,  and  I  think  much 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  LOUISIANA.  205 

more  so,  than  some  hundred  miles  below,  which  I  suppose  to  arise  from 
its  flowing  through  a  long  course  of  sandy  soil,  which  must  absorb  much 
of  the  water,  and  render  it  shoaler  below  than  above  near  the  mountains. 
Distance  advanced,  twenty-one  miles. 

Saturday,  22d  November. — Marched  early,  and  with  rather  more  cau- 
tion than  usual.  After  having  proceeded  about  five  miles  on  the  prairie, 
and  as  those  in  front  were  descending  into  the  bottom,  Baroney  cried  out, 
"  Voila  un  sauvage,"  when  we  observed  a  number  of  Indians  running  from 
the  woods  towards  us.  We  advanced  towards  them,  and  on  turning  my 
head  to  the  left,  I  observed  several  running  on  the  hill,  as  it  were  to  sur- 
round us  ;  one  of  them  bearing  a  stand  of  colours.  This  caused  a  momen- 
tary halt,  but  perceiving  those  in  front  reaching  out  their  hands,  and 
without  arms,  we  again  advanced.  They  met  us  with  open  arms,  crowd- 
ing round  to  touch  and  embrace  us.  They  appeared  so  anxious,  that  I 
dismounted  from  my  horse,  and  in  a  moment  a  fellow  had  mounted  him 
and  driven  off.  I  then  observed  the  Doctor  and  Baroney  in  the  same  pre- 
dicament. The  Indians  were  embracing  the  soldiers.  After  some  time 
tranquillity  was  so  far  restored,  they  having  returned  our  horses  all  safe,  as 
to  enable  us  to  learn  they  were  a  war  party  from  the  Grand  Pawnees,  who 
had  been  in  search  of  the  letans,  but  not  finding  them,  were  now  on  their 
return.  An  unsuccessful  war  party  on  their  way  home  are  always  ready 
to  embrace  an  opportunity  of  gratifying  their  disappointed  vengeance  on 
the  first  persons  they  meet. 

We  made  for  the  woods  and  unloaded  our  horses,  when  the  two  lead- 
ers endeavoured  to  arrange  the  party ;  it  was  with  great  difficulty  they 
got  them  tranquil,  and  not  until  there  had  been  a  bow  or  two  bent  on 
the  occasion.  When  in  some  order,  we  found  them  to  be  sixty  warriors, 
half  with  fire  arms,  and  half  with  bows,  arrows,  and  lances.  Our  party 
was  in  all  sixteen.  In  a  short  time  they  were  arranged  in  a  ring,  and  I 
took  my  seat  between  the  two  leaders  :  our  colours  were  placed  opposite 
each  other;  the  utensils  for  smoking,  &c., being  prepared  on  a  small  seat 
before  us.  Thus  far  all  was  well.  I  then  ordered  half  a  carrot  of  tobacco, 
one  dozen  knives,  sixty  fire  steels,  and  sixty  flints  to  be  presented  to  them. 
They  demanded  corn,  ammunition,  blankets,  kettles,  &c.,all  of  which  they 
were  refused,  notwithstanding  the  pressing  instances  of  my  interpreter  to 
accede  to  some  points.  The  pipes  yet  lay  unmoved,  as  if  they  were  unde- 
termined whether  to  treat  us  as  friends  or  as  enemies;  but  after  some  time 


2o6  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

we  were  presented  with  a  kettle  of  water,  drank,  smoked,  and  ate  together. 
During  this  time  Dr.  Robinson  was  standing  up  to  observe  their  actions, 
in  order  that,  if  necessary,  we  might  be  ready  to  commence  hostihties  as 
soon  as  they.  The  Indians  now  took  their  presents  and  commenced  dis- 
tributing them,  but  some  malcontents  threw  them  away,  as  if  out  of  con- 
tempt. We  began  to  load  our  horses,  when  they  encircled  us  and 
commenced  stealing  every  thing  they  could.  Finding  it  was  difficult  to 
preserve  my  pistols,  I  mounted  my  horse,  when  I  found  myself  frequently 
surrounded,  during  which  some  were  endeavouring  to  steal  the  pistols. 
The  Doctor  was  equally  engaged  in  another  quarter,  and  all  the  soldiers  at 
their  several  posts,  taking  things  from  them.  One  having  stolen  my  toma- 
hawk, I  informed  the  Chief,  but  he  paid  no  respect  to  my  remonstrance, 
except  to  reply,  that  "  they  were  pitiful."  Finding  this,  we  determined  to 
protect  ourselves  as  far  as  was  in  our  power,  and  the  affair  began  to  wear 
a  serious  aspect.  I  ordered  my  men  to  take  their  arms,  and  separate 
themselves  from  the  savages ;  at  the  same  time  declaring  to  them  I  would 
kill  the  first  man  who  touched  our  baggage,  on  which  they  commenced 
filing  off  immediately.  We  marched  about  the  same  time,  and  found  after 
they  had  left  us,  that  they  had  contrived  to  steal  one  sword,  a  tomahawk, 
a  broad  ax,  five  canteens,  and  sundry  other  small  articles.  When  I  reflected 
on  the  subject  I  felt  sincerely  mortified,  that  the  smallness  of  my  number 
obliged  me  thus  to  submit  to  the  insults  of  lawless  banditti,  it  being  the 
first  time  a  savage  had  ever  taken  any  thing  from  me  with  the  least  appear- 
ance of  force.  # 

After  encamping  at  night,  the  Doctor  and  myself  went  about  one 
mileback,  and  waylaid  the  road,  determined,  in  casewediscoveredany  of  the 
rascals  pursuing  us  to  steal  our  horses,  to  kill  two  at  least;  but  after  wait- 
ing behind  some  logs  until  some  time  in  the  night,  and  discovering  no 
person,  we  returned  to  camp.  Distance  advanced,  seventeen  miles. 
Killed  two  buffaloes,  and  one  deer. 

Sunday,  23d  Novejnber. — Marched  at  ten  o'clock.  At  one,  came  up 
to  the  third  fork  on  the  south  side,  and  encamped  at  night  on  the  point 
of  the  Grand  Forks.  As  the  river  appeared  to  be  dividing  itself  into  sev- 
eral small  branches,  and  of  course  must  be  near  its  extreme  source,  I  con- 
cluded to  put  my  party  in  a  defensible  situation,  and  ascend  the  north 
fork  to  the    high  point  of  the  Blue  Mountain,  which  we  conceived  would 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  LOUISIANA.  207 

be  one  day's  march;  in  order  to  be  enabled  from  its  summit,  to  lay  down 
the  various  branches  of  the  river,  and  the  positions  of  the  country.  Dis- 
tance advanced,  nineteen  miles.     Killed  five  buffaloes. 

Monday,  24th  November. — Early  in  the  morning  cut  down  fourteen 
logs,  and  put  up  a  breast-work  five  feet  high  on  three  sides,  and  the  other 
was  thrown  on  the  river.  After  giving  the  necessary  orders  for  the  gov- 
ernment of  my  men,  during  my  absence,  in  case  of  our  not  returning,  we 
marched  at  one  o'clock  with  an  idea  of  arriving  at  the  foot  of  the  mount- 
ain, but  found  ourselves  obliged  to  take  up  our  lodging  this  night  under 
a  single  cedar,  which  we  found  in  the  prairie,  without  water,  and  extremely 
cold.  Our  party,  besides  myself,  consisted  of  Dr.  Robinson,  and  privates 
Miller  and  Brown.     Distance  advanced,  twelve  miles. 

Tuesday,  25th  November. — Marched  early,  with  the  expectation  of 
ascending  the  mountain,  but  was  only  able  to  encamp  at  its  base,  after 
passing  over  many  small  hills  covered  with  cedars  and  pitch  pines.  Our 
encampment  was  on  a  creek ;  we  found  no  water  for  several  miles  from 
the  mountain,  but  near  its  ,base  found  springs  sufficient.  Took  a  merid- 
ional observation,  and  the  altitude  of  the  mountain.  Killed  two  buffaloes. 
Distance  advanced,  twenty-two  miles  and  a  half. 

Wednesday,  26th  November. — Expecting  to  return  to  our  camp  that 
evening,  we  left  all  our  blankets  and  provision  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain. 
Killed  a  deer  of  a  new  species,  and  hung  his  skin  on  a  tree  with  some 
meat.  We  commenced  ascending ;  found  the  way  very  difficult,  being 
obliged  to  climb  up  rocks  sometimes  almost  perpendicular ;  and  after 
marching  all  day  we  encamped  in  a  cave  without  blankets,  victuals,  or 
water.  We  had  a  fine  clear  sky,  whilst  it  was  snowing  at  the  bottom. 
On  the  side  of  the  mountain  we  found  only  yellow  and  pitch  pine  ;  some 
distance  up  we  saw  buffalo ;  and  higher  still,  the  new  species  of  deer  and 
pheasants. 

Thursday ,  2'jt\\  November. — Arose  hungry,  thirsty,  and  extremely  sore, 
from  the  unevenness  of  the  rocks  on  which  we  had  lain  all  night;  but 
were  amply  compensated  for  our  toil  by  the  sublimity  of  the  prospects 
below.  The  unbounded  prairie  was  overhung  with  clouds,  which  appeared 
like  the  ocean  in  a  storm,  wave  piled  on  wave,  and  foaming,  whilst  the 
sky  over  our  heads  was  perfectly  clear.  Commenced  our  march  up  the 
mountain,  and  in  about  one  hour  arrived  at  the  summit  of  this  chain  ;  here 


2o8  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

we  found  the  snow  middle  deep,  and  discovered  no  sign  of  beast  or  bird 
inhabiting  this  region.  The  thermometer  which  stood  at  9°  above  0  at 
the  foot  of  the  mountain,  here  fell  to  4^  below.  The  summit  of  the  Grand 
Peak,  which  was  entirely  bare  of  vegetation,  and  covered  with  snow,  now 
appeared  at  the  distance  of  fifteen  or  sixteen  miles  from  us,  and  as  high 
again  as  that  we  had  ascended  ;  it  would  have  taken  a  whole  day's  march 
to  have  arrived  at  its  base,  when  I  believe  no  human  being  could  have 
ascended  to  its  summit.  This,  with  the  condition  of  my  soldiers,  who  had 
only  light  overhauls  on,  and  no  stockings,  and  were  every  way  ill  provided 
to  endure  the  inclemency  of  this  region,  the  bad  prospect  of  killing  any- 
anything  to  subsist  on,  with  the  further  detention  of  two  or  three 
days  which  it  must  occasion,  determined  us  to  return.  The  clouds  from 
below  had  now  ascended  the  mountain,  and  entirely  enveloped  the  summit 
on  which  rest  eternal  snows.  We  descended  by  a  long  deep  ravine  with 
much  less  difficulty  than  we  had  contemplated.  Found  all  our  baggage 
safe,  but  the  provision  all  destroyed.  It  began  to  snow,  and  we  sought 
shelter  under  the  side  of  a  projecting  rock,  wtjere  we  all  four  made  a  meal 
on  one  partridge,  and  a  pair  of  deer's  ribs,  which  the  ravens  had  left  us, 
being  the  first  food  we  had  eaten  for  forty-eight  hours. 

Friday,  28th  November. — Marched  at  nine  o'clock.  Kept  straight 
down  the  creek  to  avoid  the  hills.  At  half  past  one  o'clock  shot  two 
buffaloes,  when  we  made  the  first  full  meal  we  had  eaten  for  three  davs. 
Encamped  in  a  valley  under  a  shelving  rock.  The  land  here  was  very  rich, 
and  covered  with  old  letan  camps. 

Saturday,  29th  November. — Marched  after  a  short  repast,  and  arrived 
at  our  camp  before  night.     Found  all  well. 

From  the  entrance  of  the  Arkansaw  into  the  mountains  to  its  source, 
it  is  alternately  bounded  by  perpendicular  precipices,  or  small  narrow 
prairies,  on  which  the  buffalo  and  elk  have  found  means  to  arrive,  and  are 
almost  secure  from  danger,  and  from  their  destroyer,  man.  In  many  places 
the  river  precipitates  itself  over  rocks,  so  as  to  be  at  one  moment  visible 
only  in  the  foaming  and  boiling  of  its  waters,  at  the  next  disappearing  in 
the  chasms  of  the  over-hanging  precipices. 

The  Arkansaw  river,  taking  its  meanders,  is  one  thousand  nine  hun- 
dred and  eighty-one  miles  from  its  junction  with  the  Mississippi  to  the 
mountains,  and  from  thence  to  its  source  one  hundred   and    ninety-two 


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iwfrom  C,  to  itn  mouth,  by  Lieut.  Wilkinaon,  U.  I 
ivei-  to  D,  by  Capt.  Many.  U.  S.  Art. 
ifrom  the  mmUn  of  the  Osag^  to  the 
of  La  Platte  by  Capt.  M.  Lewis, 
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to  our  Salt  meadow  grau.  from  lh« 
great  quantity  of  JSalt. 

Above  the  first  Fork  of  the  Arkansaw  the  bank  becomes  very 
rough,  which  although  narrow  ♦  carries  a  quality  of  water,  of  a 
red  color,  and  is  the  left  branch  of  the  Arkansaw,  which  connects 
with  the  Red  River  of  the  Mississippi,  which  is  extremely  easy 
distinguishable  in  ascending;  as  from  a  few  miles  above,  nearly 
in  a  parallel  line,  is  a  high  Ridge  bearing  off  at  right  angles  from 
the  main  River. 


The  Fori. 

BeiuiOot  A  Co., 


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THE  INTERIOR  OF  LOUISIANA.  209 

miles,  making  its  total  length  two  thousand  one  hundred  and  seventy- 
three  miles,  all  of  which  may  be  navigated  with  proper  boats,  constructed 
for  the  purpose ;  except  the  one  hundred  and  ninety-two  miles  in  the  mount- 
ains. It  receives  several  small  rivers,  which  are  navigable  for  one  hun- 
dred miles  and  upwards.  Boats  bound  up  the  whole  length  of  the  naviga- 
tion should  embark  at  its  entrance  .  on  the  first  of  February,  when  they 
would  have  the  fresh  quite  to  the  mountains,  and  meet  with  no  deten- 
tions; but  if  later,  they  will  find  the  river  one  thousand  five  hundred  miles 
up,  nearly  dry.  It  has  one  singularity  which  struck  me  very  forcibly  at 
first  view,  but  on  reflection  I  was  induced  to  believe  the  case  to  be  the 
same  with  all  rivers  whose  courses  lie  through  a  low,  dry,  and  sandy  soil 
in  warm  climates.  For  the  extent  of  four  or  five  hundred  miles  before  you 
arrive  at  the  mountains,  the  bed  of  the  river  is  extensive,  and  a  perfect 
sand  bar,  which  at  certain  seasons  is  dry,  at  least  the  water  is  standing  in 
ponds,  not  affording  sufficient  to  procure  a  running  course  from  one  to 
the  other :  when  you  come  neai'er  the  mountains,  you  find  the  river  con- 
tracted, with  a  gravelly  bottom,  and  a  deep  navigable  stream.  From 
which  circumstances  it  is  evident,  that  the  sandy  soil  imbibes  all  the 
waters,  which  the  sources  project  from  the  hills,  and  renders  the  river,  in 
dry  seasons,  less  navigable  at  the  distance  of  five  hundred  than  at  two 
hundred  miles  from  its  source. 

The  borders  of  the  Arkansaw  maybe  termed  the  paradise  terrestrial  of 
our  territories  for  wandering  savages.  Of  all  the  countries  visited  by  the  foot- 
steps of  civilized  man,  there  never  was  one  probably  that  produced  game 
in  greater  abundance,  and  we  know  that  the  manners  and  morals  of  the 
erratic  nations  are  such  (the  reasons  I  leave  to  be  given  by  Ontologists)  as 
never  to  give  them  a  numerous  population,  and  I  believe  that  there  are 
buffalo,  elk,  and  deer  sufificient  on  the  borders  of  the  Arkansaw  alone,  if 
used  without  waste,  to  feed  all  the  savages  of  the  United  States  territory 
for  one  century. 

By  the  route  of  the  Arkansaw,  and  the  Rio  Colorado  of  California,  I 
am  confident  in  asserting  (if  my  information  be  correct)  there  can  be 
established  the  best  communication  on  this  side  the  Isthmus  of  Darien, 
between  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  oceans  ;  as,  admitting  the  utmost,  the 
land  carriage  would  not  be  more  than  two  hundred  miles,  and  the  route 
may  be  made  quite  as  eligible  as  our  public  highways  over  the  Alleghany 


210  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

Mountains.  The  Rio  Colorado  is  to  the  great  gulph  of  California,  what  the 
Mississippi  is  to  the  Gulph  of  Mexico,  and  is  navigable  for  ships  of  consid- 
erable burthen,  opposite  to  the  upper  part  of  the  province  of  Senora. 

Sunday,  30th  November. —  We  commenced  our  march  at  eleven 
o'clock,  it  snowing  very  fast,  but  my  impatience  to  be  moving  would  not 
permit  me  to  He  still  at  our  present  camp.  The  Doctor,  Baroney,  and 
myself  went  to  view  an  letan  encampment,  which  appeared  to  be  about 
two  years  old,  and  from  the  occupiers  having  cut  down  so  large  a  quantity 
of  trees  to  support  their  horses,  we  concluded  there  must  have  been  at 
least  one  thousand  souls.  Past  several  more  in  the  course  of  the  day,  also 
one  Spanish  camp.  Distance  advanced,  fifteen  miles.  Killed  two  deer. 
This  day  came  to  the  first  cedar  and  pine,  except  the  few  we  had  seen  in 
the  mountains. 

Monday,  ist  December. — The  storm  still  continuing  with  violence,  we 
remained  encamped ;  the  snow  by  night  was  one  foot  deep,  our  horses  being 
obliged  to  scrape  it  away  to  obtain  their  miserable  pittance.  To  increase 
their  misfortune,  the  poor  animals  were  attacked  by  the  magpies,  which 
attracted  by  the  scent  of  their  sore  backs,  alighted  on  them,  and  in  defiance 
of  their  whinnying  and  kicking,  picked  many  places  quite  raw  ;  the  difificulty 
of  procuring  food  rendered  these  birds  so  bold  as  to  light  on  our  men's 
arms,  and  eat  meat  out  of  their  hands.  One  of  our  hunters  was  out,  but 
killed  nothing. 

Tuesday,  2d  December. — It  cleared  ofT  in  the  night,  and  in  the  morning 
the  thermometer  stood  at  1 7°  below  0  (Reaumeure),  being  three  times 
as  cold  as  any  morning  we  had  yet  experienced.  We  killed  an  old  buffalo 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  which  here  was  so  deep  as  to  swim 
horses.  Marched,  and  found  it  necessary  to  cross  to  the  north  side,  about 
two  miles  up,  as  the  ridge  joined  the  river.  The  ford  was  a  good  one, 
but  the  ice  ran  very  bad,  and  two  of  the  men  had  their  feet  frozen,  before 
we  could  get  accommodated  with  fire,  &c.  Secured  some  of  our  old 
buffalo,  and  continued  our  march.  The  country  being  very  rugged  and 
hilly,  one  of  our  horses  took  a  freak  in  his  head  and  turned  back,  which 
occasioned  three  of  our  rear  guard  to  lie  out  all  night.  I  was  very  appre- 
hensive they  might  perish  in  the  open  prairie.  Distance  advanced,  thirteen 
miles. 

Wednesday,  3d  December. — The  weather  moderating  at  3°  below  0, 
our  absentees  joined  us,  one  with  his  feet  frozen,  but  they  were  not  able 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  LOUISIANA.  211 

to  bring  up  the  horse;  sent  two  men  back  on  horseback  The  hardships 
of  my  last  voyage  now  began  to  be  again  experienced,  and  had  the  climate 
been  as  severe  as  that  to  which  I  was  then  exposed,  some  of  the  men  must 
have  perished,  for  they  had  no  winter  clothing.  I  wore  myself  cotton  over- 
hauls, for  I  had  not  calculated  on  being  out  in  this  inclement  season  of  the 
year.  Dr.  Robinson,  and  myself,  with  assistants,  went  out  and  took  the 
altitude  of  the  north  mountain  on  the  base  of  a  mile;*  after  which, 
together  with  Sparks,  we  endeavoured  to  kill  a  cow,  but  without  effect. 
Killed  two  bulls,  that  the  men  might  take  pieces  of  their  hides  for  mockin- 
sons.  Left  Sparks  out.  On  our  return  to  camp,  found  the  men  had  got 
back  with  the  strayed  horse,  but  too  late  to  march, 

Thursday,  4th  December. — Marched  about  five  o'clock.  Took  up 
Sparks,  who  had  succeeded  in  killing  a  cow.  Killed  two  buffaloes  and  six 
turkies.     Distance  advanced,  twenty  miles. 

Friday,  5th  December. — Marched  at  our  usual  hour.  Passed  one  very 
bad  place  of  falling  rocks,  where  we  had  to  carry  our  loads.  Encamped 
on  the  main  branch  of  the  river,  near  the  entrance  of  the  South  Mountain. 
In  the  evening,  walked  up  to  the  mountain.  Heard  fourteen  guns  at 
camp,  during  my  absence,  which  alarmed  me  considerably;  returned  as 
quickly  as  possibly,  and  found  that  the  cause  of  my  alarm  arose  from  their 
shooting  turkies.  Killed  two  buffaloes  and  nine  turkies.  Distance  ad- 
vanced, eighteen  miles. 

Saturday,  6th  December. — Sent  out  three  different  parties  to  hunt  the 
Spanish  trace,  but  without  success.  The  Doctor  and  myself  followed  the 
river  into  the  mountain,  which  was  bounded  on  each  side  by  rocks  two 
hundred  feet  high,  leaving  a  small  valley  of  fifty  or  sixty  feet.  Killed  two 
buffaloes,  two  deer,  and  one  turkey. 

*  The  perpendicular  height  of  the  mountain  from  the  level  of  the  prairie,  we 
found  to  be  ten  thousand  five  hundred  and  eighty-one  feet,  and  admitting  the  prairie 
to  be  eight  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  it  would  make  the  elevation  of 
this  peak  eighteen  thousand  five  hundred  and  eighty-one  feet,  equal  to  that  of  some, 
and  surpassing  the  calculated  height  of  others  for  the  peak  of  Teneriffe,  and  falling 
short  of  that  of  Chimborazo  only  one  thousand  seven  hundred  and  one  feet.  Indeed, 
it  was  so  remarkable  as  to  be  known  to  all  the  savage  nations  for  hundreds  of  miles 
round,  and  to  be  spoken  of  with  admiration  by  the  Spaniards  of  New  Mexico,  and 
formed  the  bounds  of  their  travels  to  the  N.  W.  In  our  wandering  in  the  mountains 
from  the  14th  November  to  the  27th  January,  it  was  never  out  of  our  sight,  except 
when  we  were  in  a  valley. 


212  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

Sunday,  7th  December. — We  again  despatched  parties  in  search  of 
the  Spanish  trace.  One  party  discovered  it  on  the  other  side  of  the  river, 
and  followed  it  into  the  valley  of  the  stream  at  the  entrance  of  the  mount- 
ains, where  they  met  two  parties  who  were  returning  from  exploring  the 
two  branches  of  the  river;  of  which  they  reported,  that  they  had  ascended 
until  the  river  was  merely  a  brook,  bounded  on  both  sides  with  perpendicu- 
lar rocks,  impracticable  for  horses  ever  to  pass.  Then  they  recrossed  the 
river  to  the  north  side  and  discovered,  as  they  supposed,  that  the  Spanish 
troops  had  ascended  a  dry  valley  to  the  right.  On  their  return  they  found 
some  rock  salt,  samples  of  which  were  brought  me.  We  determined  to 
march  on  the  morrow  to  the  entrance  of  the  valley,  there  to  examine  the 
salt  and  the  road.     Killed  one  wild  cat. 

Monday,  8th  December. — On  examining  the  trace  found  yesterday,  con- 
ceived it  to  have  been  only  that  of  a  reconnoitring  party  despatched  from 
the  main  body;  and  on  analysing  the  rock  salt,  found  it  to  be  strongly 
impregnated  with  sulphur,  and  there  were  some  very  strong  sulphurated 
springs  at  its  base.  Returned  to  camp,  took  with  me  Dr.  Robinson  and 
Miller,  and  descended  the  river,  in  order  to  discover  certainly  if  the  whole 
party  had  come  by  this  route.  Descended  about  seven  miles  on  the  south 
side.     Saw  great  numbers  of  turkies,  and  deer.     Killed  one  of  the  latter. 

Tuesday,  9th  December. —  Before  we  marched,  killed  a  fine  buck  at 
our  camp,  as  he  was  passing.  I  found  the  Spanish  camp,  about  four  miles 
below,  and  from  every  observation  we  could  make  conceived  they  had 
ascended  the  river.  Returned  to  camp,  where  we  arrived  about  two  o'clock, 
and  found  all  well ;  would  have  moved  immediately,  but  four  men  were 
out  reconnoitring.     Killed  three  deer. 

Wednesday,  loth  December. —  Marched,  and  found  the  road  over  the 
mountain  to  be  excellent.  Encamped  on  a  dry  ravine.  Obliged  to  melt 
snow  for  ourselves  and  horses.  And  as  there  was  nothing  else  for  the 
latter  to  eat,  gave  them  one  pint  of  corn  each.     Killed  one  buffalo. 

Thursday,  nth  December. — Marched  at  ten  o'clock,  and  after  proceed 
ing  one  mile,  struck  a  branch  of  the  Arkansaw,  on  which  the  supposed 
Spaniards  had  encamped,  where  there  were  both  water  and  grass.  Kept 
along  this  branch,  but  was  frequently  embarrassed  as  to  the  trace.  At 
three  o'clock,  P.  M.  having  no  sign  of  it,  halted  and  encamped,  and  went 
out  to  search  for  it ;  found  it  about  one  mile  to  the  right.  Distance 
advanced,  fifteen  miles. 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  LOUISIANA.  213 

Friday,  12th  December. — Marched  at  nine  o'clock;  continued  up  the 
same  branch  as  yesterday.  The  ridges  on  our  right  and  left  appeared  to 
grow  lower,  but  mountains  appeared  on  our  flanks  through  the  intervals 
covered  with  snow.  Owing  to  the  weakness  of  our  horses  made  only 
twelve  miles. 

Saturday,  x'^'Ca  December. —  Marched  at  the  usual  hour,  and  passed 
large  springs  and  the  supposed  Spanish  camp  ;  at  twelve  o'clock  passed  a 
dividing  ridge,  and  immediately  fell  on  a  small  branch  running  N.  20"  W. 
There  being  no  appearance  of  wood  we  left  it,  together  with  the  Spanish 
trace,  to  our  right,  and  made  for  the  hills  to  encamp.  After  the  halt  I 
took  my  gun,  and  went  out  to  see  what  discovery  I  could  make.  After 
marching  about  two  miles  north,  fell  on  a  river  forty  yards  wide  frozen 
over,  which  after  some  investigation  I  found  ran  north-east.  This  was 
the  occasion  of  much  surprise,  as  we  were  taught  to  expect  to  meet  with 
the  branches  of  the  Red  river,  which  should  have  run  south-east.  Query, 
must  it  not  be  the  head  water  of  the  River  Plate  ?  If  so,  the  Missouri 
must  run  much  more  to  the  west  than  is  generally  represented.  For  the 
Plate  is  a  small  river,  by  no  means  calculated  to  excite  an  expectation  of 
so  extensive  a  course.*  Distance  advanced,  eighteen  miles.  One  horse 
gave  out  and  was  left. 

Sunday,  14th  December. — Struck  the  river  upon  our  march;  ascended 
it  four  miles  and  encamped  on  the  northern  side.  The  prairie  being 
about  two  miles  wide,  was  covered  for  at  least  six  miles  along  the  banks 
of  the  river,  with  horse  dung  and  the  marks  of  Indian  camps,  which 
had  been  stationed  here  since  the  cold  weather  had  set  in,  as  was  evident 
by  the  fires  which  were  in  the  centre  of  the  lodges.  The  signs  made  by 
their  horses  were  astonishing,  and  must  have  taken  one  thousand  cattle 
some  months  to  have  left  them.  As  it  was  impossible  to  say  which  course 
the  Spaniards  had  pursued  amongst  the  multiplicity  of  signs  which  now 
appeared,  we  halted  early,  and  discovered  that  they  or  the  savages,  had 

*  Much  light  has  been  thrown  on  the  geography  of  the  countries  adjacent  to  the 
Missouri,  by  the  journey  of  Captains  Lewis  and  Clarke,  to  the  source  of  that  river,  and 
across  the  dividing  ridge  of  the  Stony  Mountains  to  the  Pacific.  There  seems  little 
doubt  of  the  correctness  of  Mr.  Pike's  suggestion,  that  this  stream  composed  a  main 
branch  of  the  Plate,  and  it  is  accordingly  so  laid  down  in  his  own  large  chart.   E. 


214  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

ascended  the  river.  We  determined  to  pursue  the  route.  As  the  geog- 
raphy of  the  country  had  turned  out  to  be  so  different  from  our  expec- 
tations, we  were  somewhat  at  a  loss  which  course  to  pursue,  unless  we 
attempted  to  cross  the  snow-capt  mountains  to  the  south-east  of  us,  which 
appeared  almost  impossible.  On  this  day  burst  one  of  our  rifles,  which 
was  a  great  loss,  as  it  was  the  third  gun  that  had  burst,  and,  the  fifth 
broken  on  the  march.  One  of  my  men  was  now  armed  with  my  sword 
and  pistols.     Killed  two  buffaloes. 

Monday,  15th  December. — After  repairing  the  guns,  we  marched,  but 
were  obliged  to  leave  another  horse.  Ascended  the  river,  both  sides  of 
which  were  covered  with  old  Indian  camps,  at  which  we  found  corn  cribs  ; 
we  were  induced  to  believe  that  these  savages,  although  erratic,  must 
remain  long  enough  in  one  place  to  cultivate  grain  ;  or  must  obtain  it  of  the 
Spaniards.  From  their  sign  they  must  have  been  extremely  numerous, 
and  have  possessed  vast  numbers  of  horses. 

My  poor  fellows  now  suffered  extremely  from  the  cold,  being  almost 
naked.     Distance  advanced,  ten  miles. 

Tuesday,  i6th  December. — Marched  up  the  river  about  two  miles  and 
killed  a  buffalo.  When,  finding  no  road  up  the  stream,  we  halted,  and 
despatched  parties  in  different  directions.  The  Doctor  and  myself  ascend- 
ing high  enough  to  enable  me  to  lay  down  the  course  of  the  river  into  the 
mountains.  From  a  high  ridge  we  reconnoitred  the  adjacent  country, 
and  resolved  to  put  the  Sjaanish  trace  out  of  the  question,  and  to  shape 
our  course  south-west  for  the  head  of  Red  river.  One  of  our  party  found 
a  large  camp,  which  had  been  occupied  by  at  least  three  thousand  Indians, 
with  a  large  cross  in  the  middle.     Are  these  people  Catholics  ? 

Wednesday,  1 7bh  December. — On  striking  a  left  hand  fork  of  the  river 
we  had  left,  found  it  to  be  the  main  branch,  and  ascended  it  some  distance  ; 
but  finding  it  to  bear  too  much  to  the  north,  we  encamped  about  two 
miles  from  its  banks  for  the  purpose  of  benefiting  by  its  water.  Dis- 
tance advanced,  fifteen  miles. 

Thursday,  i8th  Deceinber. — Crossed  the  mountain  which  lay  south- 
west of  us.  In  a  distance  of  seven  miles  arrived  at  a  small  spring.  Some 
of  our  men  observed,  they  supposed  it  to  be  the  Red  river,  to  which  I  then 
gave  very  little  credit.  On  entering  a  gap  in  the  next  mountain,  came  to 
an  excellent  spring  which  formed  a  fine  creek  :  this  we  followed  through 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  LOUISIANA.  215 

narrows  in  the  mountain  for  about  six  miles.  Found  many  evacuated 
camps  of  Indians,  the  latest  yet  seen.  After  pointing  out  the  ground  for 
the  encampment,  the  Doctor  and  myself  went  on  to  make  discoveries,  as 
was  our  usual  custom,  and  in  about  four  miles  march,  struck  what  we  sup- 
posed to  be  Red  river,  which  here  was  about  twenty-five  yards  wide :  ran 
with  great  rapidity,  and  was  full  of  rocks.  We  returned  to  the  party  with 
the  news,  which  gave  general  pleasure.  Determined  to  remain  a  day  or 
two  in  order  to  examine  the  source.  Distance  advanced,  eighteen  miles. 
Snowy  weather. 

Friday,  19th  December. — Marched  down  the  creek,  near  the  opening 
of  the  prairie,  and  encamped.  Sent  out  parties  hunting,  but  had  no  suc- 
cess. Still  snowing  and  stormy.  Making  preparations  to  take  an  obser- 
vation. 

Saturday,  20th  December. — Having  found  a  fine  place  for  pasture  on 
the  river,  sent  our  horses  down  to  it  with  a  guard.  Also,  three  parties  out 
a  hunting,  all  of  whom  returned  without  success.  Took  an  observation. 
As  there  was  no  prospect  of  killing  any  game,  it  was  necessary  that  the 
party  should  leave  this  place.  I  therefore  determined  that  the  Doctor  and 
Baroney  should  descend  the  river  in  the  morning ;  that  myself  and  two 
men  would  ascend,  and  the  rest  of  the  party  descend  after  the  Doctor, 
until  they  obtained  provision,  and  could  wait  for  me. 

Sunday,  21st  December.— TV^  Doctor  and  Baroney  marched;  the 
party  remained  for  me  to  take  a  meridional  observation,  after  which  we 
separated.  Myself,  and  the  two  men  who  accompanied  me  (Mountjoy 
and  Miller),  ascended  for  twelve  miles;  and  encamped  on  the  north  side  of 
the  river,  continuing  close  to  the  north  mountain,  and  running  through  a 
narrow  rocky  channel,  in  some  places  not  more  than  twenty  feet  wide,  and 
at  least  ten  feet  deep.     Its  banks  bordered  with  yellow  pine,  cedar,  &c. 

Monday,  2  2d  December. — Marched  up  thirteen  miles  farther,  to  a 
large  point  of  the  mountain,  whence  we  had  a  view  of  at  least  thirty-five 
miles,  to  where  the  river  entered  the  mountain,  it  being  at  that  place  not 
more  than  ten  or  fifteen  feet  wide  ;  and,  properly  speaking,  only  a  brook. 
From  this  place,  after  taking  the  course  and  estimating  the  distance,  we 
returned  to  our  camp  of  last  evening.     Killed  a  turkey  and  a  hare. 

Ttcesday,  23d  December. — Marched  early,  and  at  two  o'clock  P.  M. 
discovered  the  trail  of  the  party  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  ;  forded  it, 


2i6  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

although  extremely  cold,  and  marched  until  some  time  in  the  night,  when 
we  arrived  at  the  second  night's  encampment  of  the  party.  Our  clothing 
was  frozen  stiff,  and  we  ourselves  were  considerably  benumbed. 

Wednesday,  24th  December. — The  parties'  provision  extending  only  to 
the  23d,  and  their  orders  being  not  to  halt  until  they  killed  some  game, 
and  then  wait  for  us,  they  might  have  been  considerably  advanced.  About 
eleven  o'clock  met  Dr.  Robinson  on  a  prairie,  who  informed  me  that  he  and 
Baroney  had  been  absent  from  the  party  two  days,  without  killing  any- 
thing, also  without  eating ;  but  that  over  night  they  had  killed  four  buffa- 
loes, and  that  he  was  in  search  of  the  men.  I  suffered  the  two  men  who 
were  with  me  to  go  to  the  camp  where  the  meat  was,  as  we  had  also  been 
nearly  two  days  without  eating.  The  Doctor  and  myself  pursued  the  trail, 
and  found  them  encamped  on  the  river's  bottom.  Sent  out  horses  for  the 
meat ;  shortly  after.  Sparks  arrived,  and  informed  us  he  had  killed  four 
cows.  Thus,  from  being  in  a  starving  condition,  we  had  at  once  eight 
beeves  in  our  camp.  We  now  again  found  ourselves  all  assembled  together 
on  Christmas  eve,  and  appeared  generally  to  be  content,  although  all  the 
refreshment  we  had  to  celebrate  the  day  with  was  buffalo  flesh,  without 
salt,  or  any  other 'thing  whatever. 

My  little  excursion  up  the  river  had  been  undertaken  with  a  view  of 
establishing  the  geography  of  the  sources  of  the  (supposed)  Red  river,  as 
I  well  knew  the  indefatigable  researches  of  Dr.  Hunter,  Dunbar,  and 
Freeman,  had  left  nothing  unnoticed  in  the  extent  of  their  voyage  up  that 
stream.  I  determined  that  its  upper  branches  should  be  equally  well 
explored,  as  in  this  voyage  I  had  already  ascertained  the  sources  of  the 
Osage  and  *White  rivers,  been  round  the  head  of  the  Kanses  river,  and 
on  the  head  waters  of  the  Plate. 

Thursday,  25th  December. — The  weather  being  stormy,  and  having 
some  meat  to  dry,  I  concluded  to  lie  by  this  day.  Here  I  must  take  the 
liberty  of  observing  that  in  this  situation  the  hardships  and  privations  we 
underwent,  were  on  this  day  brought  more  fully  to  our  minds  than  at  any 
time  previously.  We  had  before  been  occasionally  accustomed  to  some 
degree  of  relaxation,  and  extra  enjoyments  ;  but  the  case  was  now  far  dif- 
ferent :  eight  hundred  miles  from  the  frontiers  of  our  cbuntry,  in  the  most 

*  Comparing  Mr.  Pike's  map  with  his  journal,  it  certainly  does  not  appear  that  he 
saw  the  White  river,  having  mistaken  for  it  a  branch  of  the  Arkansaw.     E. 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  LOUISIANA.  217 

inclement  season  of  the  year ;  not  one  person  properly  clothed  for  the 
winter,  many  without  blankets,  having  been  obliged  to  cut  them  up  for 
socks  and  other  articles;  lying  doKvn  too  at  night  on  the  snow  or  wet 
ground,  one  side  burning  whilst  the  other  was  pierced  with  the  cold  wind  ; 
this  was  briefly  the  situation  of  the  party  :  whilst  some  were  endeavouring 
to  make  a  miserable  substitute  of  raw  buffalo  hide  for  shoes,  and  other 
covering.  I  will  not  speak  of  diet,  as  I  conceive  that  to  be  beneath  the 
serious  consideration  of  a  man  on  a  journey  of  such  a  nature.  We  spent 
this  day  as  agreeably  as  could  be  expected  from  men  in  our  circumstances. 
Caught  a  bird  of  a  new  species,  by  a  trap  made  for  him.* 

Friday,  26th  December. — Marched  at  two  o'clock  and  made  seven 
miles  and  a  half  to  the  entrance  of  the  mountains.  On  this  piece  of 
prairie  the  river  spread  considerably,  and  formed  several  small  islands. 
A  large  stream  enters  from  the  south.  As  my  boy  and  some  others 
were  unwell,  I  omitted  pitching  our  tent,  in  order  that  they  might  have  it ; 
in  consequence  of  which  we  were  completely  covered  with  snow,  as  well 
as  having  it  for  our  bed. 

Saturday,  27th  December. — Marched  over  an  extremely  rough  road, 
our  horses  frequently  fell  and  cut  themselves  considerably  on  the  rocks. 
From  there  being  no  roads  of  buffaloes,  or  sign  of  horses,  I  am  convinced 
that  neither  these  animals,  nor  the  Aborigines  of  the  country  ever  take 
this  route  to  go  from  the  source  of  the  river  out  of  the  mountains;  but  that 
they  must  cross  one  of  the  chains  to  the  right  or  left,  and  find  a  smoother 
tract  to  the  lower  country.  We  were  obliged  to  unload  our  horses  and 
carry  the  baggage  at  several  places.  Distance  advanced,  twelve  miles  and 
a  half. 

Sunday,  28th  December. — Marched  over  an  open  space,  and  from  the 
appearance  before  us  concluded  we  were  going  out  of  the  mountains,  but 
at  night  encamped  at  the  entrance  of  most  perpendicular  precipices  on  both 

*  This  bird  was  of  a  green  colour,  almost  the  size  of  a  quail,  and  had  a  small  tuft 
on  its  head  like  a  pheasant,  and  was  one  of  the  carnivorous  species  ;  it  differed  from 
any  bird  we  ever  saw  in  the  United  States.  We  kept  it  with  us  in  a  small  wicker  cage, 
feeding  it  on  meat,  until  I  left  the  interpreter  on  the  Arkansaw,  to  whose  care  I  com- 
mitted it.  We  at  one  time  took  a  companion  of  the  same  species,  and  put  him  in  the 
same  cage,  when  the  first  resident  never  ceased  attacking  the  stranger,  until  he  had 
killed  him. 


2i8  TRAVELS   THROUGH 

< 

sides,  through  which  the  river  ran  and  our  course  lay.  Distance  advanced, 
sixteen  miles. 

Monday,  29th  December. — Owing  to  the  extreme  ruggedness  of  the 
road,  we  made  but  five  miles  march.  Saw  an  animal  of  a  new  species  on 
the  mountain,  ascended  to  kill  him,' but  did  not  succeed.  Finding  the  im- 
possibility of  getting  along  with  the  horses,  made  one  sledge,  which  with 
the  men  attached  to  three  horses,  carried  their  load. 

Tuesday,  30th  December. — At  half  past  one  o'clock  were  obliged  to 
halt  on  our  march  and  send  back  for  the  sledge  loads,  as  they  had  broken 
it,  and  could  not  proceed  owing  to  the  waters  running  over  the  ice.  Dis- 
tance advanced,  eight  miles.     Crossed  our  horses  twice  on  the  ice. 

Wednesday,  31st  Z?^^^w<5^r.^Marched.  Had  frequently  to  cross  the 
river  on  the  ice,  during  our  march;  the  horses  falling  down,  we  were  obliged 
to  pull  them  over  on  the  ice.  The  river  turned  so  much  to  the  north,  as 
almost  to  induce  us  to  believe  it  was  the  Arkansaw.  Distance  advanced, 
ten  miles  and  three-quarters. 

Thursday,  ist  January,  1807. — The  Doctor  and  one  man  marched 
early,  in  order  to  precede  the  party  until  they  should  kill  a  supply  of  pro- 
vision. We  had  great  difficulty  in  getting  our  horses  along,  some  of  the 
poor  animals  having  nearly  killed  themselves  by  falling  on  the  ice.  Found 
on  the  way  one  of  the  mountain  rams  which  the  Doctor  and  Brown  had 
killed  and  left  on  the  road.  Skinned  it  with  horns,  &c.  At  nightascended 
a  mountain,  and  discovered  a  prairie  ahead  about  eight  miles;  the  news  of 
which  gave  great  joy  to  the  party. 

Friday,  idi  January. — Laboured  all  day,  but  advanced  only  one  mile, 
many  of  our  horses  being  much  wounded  in  falling  on  the  rocks.  Pro- 
visions growing  short,  left  Stout  and  Miller  with  two  loads  to  come  on 
with  a  sledge  on  the  ice,  which  covered  the  water  in  some  of  the  coves. 
Finding  it  almost  impossible  to  proceed  any  further  with  the  horses  by  the 
lead  of  the  river,  ascended  the  mountain,  and  immediately  after  were 
again  obliged  to  descend  an  almost  perpendicular  side,  in  effecting  which, 
one  horse  fell  down  the  precipice,  and  bruised  himself  so  miserably  that  I 
conceived  it  mercy  to  cause  the  poor  animal  to  be  shot.  Many  others 
were  nearly  killed  by  falls.  Left  two  men  with  loads  and  tools  to  make 
sledges.     The  two  men  we  had  left  in  the  morning  had  passed  us. 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  LOUISIANA.  219 

Saturday,  3d  January. — Left  two  more  men  to  make  sledges,  and  to 
follow  us.  We  pursued  the  river,  and  with  great  difficulty  made  six  miles, 
by  frequently  cutting  roads  on  the  ice,  and  covering  it  with  earth,  in  order 
to  go  round  precipices  that  projected  into  the  course. 

The  men  left  in  the  morning  encamped  with  us  at  night,  but  we  saw 
nothing  of  those  of  the  day  before.  This  day  tv/o  of  the  horses  became 
senseless  from  the  bruises  received  on  the  rocks,  and  we  were  obliged  to 
leave  them. 

Sunday,  i^'Ca.  January. — We  made  the  prairie  about  three  o'clock,  when  I 
detached  Baroney  and  two  soldiers  with  the  horses,  in  order  to  find  some 
practicable  way  for  them  to  get  out  of  the  mountains  without  their  loads. 
I  then  divided  the  others  into  two  parties  of  two  men  each,  to  make  sledges, 
and  bring  on  the  baggage.  I  determined  to  continue  down  the  river  alone, 
until  I  could  kill  some  provision,  and  find  the  two  men  who  had  left  us 
on  the  second,  or  the  Doctor  and  his  companion,  for  we  had  now 
no  food  left,  and  every  one  had  to  depend  on  his  own  exertions  for 
safety  and  subsistence.  Thus  we  were  divided  into  eight  different  parties, 
viz.,  first,  the  Doctor  and  his  companion  ;  second,  the  two  men  with 
the  first  sledge;  third,  the  interpreter  and  the  two  men  with  the  horses; 
fourth,  myself ;  fifth,  sixth,  seventh  and  eighth,  two  men  each,  with  sledges, 
at  different  distances ;  all  of  whom,  except  the  last,  had  orders,  if  they 
killed  any  game,  to  secure  some  part  in  a  conspicuous  place  for  their  com- 
panions in  the  rear.  I  marched  on  about  five  miles  on  the  river,  which 
was  one  continued  fall  through  a  narrow  channel,  and  immense  cliffs  on 
both  sides.  Near  night  I  came  to  a  place  where  the  rocks  were  perpendicular 
on  both  sides,  and  no  ice,  except  a  narrow  border  on  the  water.  I  began 
to  look  about,  in  order  to  discover  which  way  the  Doctor  and  his  companion 
had  managed,  and  to  find  what  had  become  of  the  two  men  with  the  first 
sledge ;  when  I  discovered  one  of  the  latter  climbing  up  the  side  of  the 
rocks ;  I  called  to  him,  and  he  and  his  companion  immediately  joined  me. 
They  said  they  had  not  known  whether  we  were  before,  or  in  the  rear; 
that  they  had  eaten  nothing  for  the  last  two  days ;  and  that  this  night  they 
intended  to  have  boiled  a  deer's  skin  to  subsist  on.  We  at  length  dis- 
covered a  narrow  ravine,  where  we  observed  the  trace  of  the  Doctor  and 
his  companion  ;  as  the  water  had  run  over  it  and  frozen  hard,  it  was  one 
continued  sheet  of  ice  ;  we  ascended  with  the  utmost  difficulty  and  danger, 


220  TRAVELS  THROUGH. 

loaded  with  the  baggage.  On  the  summit  of  the  first  ridge  we  found  an 
encampment  of  the  Doctor's,  where  they  had  killed  a  deer,  but  they  had 
now  no  meat.  He  afterwards  informed  me  that  they  had  left  the  greatest 
part  of  it  hanging  on  a  tree,  but  supposed  the  birds  had  destroyed  it.  I 
left  the  men  to  bring  up  the  remainder  of  the  baggage  and  went  out  in 
order  to  kill  something  for  subsistence  ;  wounded  a  deer  but  the  darkness 
of  the  night  approaching  could  not  find  him  ;  when  I  returned  hungry, 
weary,  and  thirsty,  and  had  only  snow  to  supply  the  calls  of  nature.  Dis- 
tance advanced,  eight  miles. 

Monday,  '^X}a.  January. — I  went  out  in  the  morning  to  hunt,  whilst  the 
two  men  were  bringing  up  some  of  their  loads  still  left  at  the  foot  of  the 
mountain.  Wounded  several  deer,  but  was  surprised  to  find  I  killed  none, 
and  on  examining  my  gun  found  it  bent ;  owing  as  I  suppose  to  some  fall 
on  the  ice  or  rocks.  I  shortly  after  received  a  fall  on  the  side  of  a  hill 
which  broke  it  off  by  the  breech ;  this  put  me  into  despair,  as  I  calculated 
on  it,  as  my  grandest  resource  for  a  great  portion  of  my  party.  Returned 
to  my  companions  sorely  fatigued  and  hungry.  I  then  took  a  double- 
barrelled  gun,  and  left  them,  with  assurances  that  the  first  animal  I 
killed  I  would  return  with  part  of  for  their  relief.  About  ten  o'clock 
rose  the  highest  summit  of  the  mountain,  when  the  unbounded  extent 
of  the  prairies  again  presented  itself  to  my  view,  and  from  some  dis- 
tant peaks,  I  immediately  recognized  our  situation  to  be  one  outlet  of 
the  Arkansaw,  which  we  had  left  nearly  one  month  since.  This  was  a 
great  mortification,  but  at  the  same  time,  I  consoled  myself  with  the 
knowledge  I  had  acquired  of  the  source  of  the  Plate  and  Arkansaw 
rivers,  with  the  river  to  the  north-west,  supposed  to  be  the  Pierre  Jaun,* 
which  scarcely  any  person  but  a  madman  would  ever  purposely  attempt 
to  trace  any  further  than  the  entrance  of  these  mountains,  which  had 
hitherto  secured  their  sources  from  the  scrutinizing  eye  of  civilized 
man. 

*  The  Yellow  Stone  river  branch  of  the  Missouri.  This  rises  a  few  miles  to  the 
northward  of  the  Plate  river,  nearly  as  high  up  as  the  sources  of  the  Arkansaw,  but 
on  the  other  side  of  a  chain  of  mountains,  about  lat.  41  42'.  It  is  remarkable  that 
no  mention  is  made  jn  the  proper  place  in  the  journal  of  the  discovery  of  this  stream. 
From  Mr.  Pike's  large  chart,  it  appears  to  have  been  seen  by  an  exploring  detach- 
ment of  his  party.     E. 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  LOUISIANA.  221 

I  arrived  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain  and  the  bank  of  the  river  in 
the  afternoon,  and  at  the  same  time  discovered  on  the  other  shore  Baroney 
with  the  horses.  They  had  found  quite  an  eligible  pass ;  they  had  killed 
one  buffalo  and  some  deer.  We  proceeded  to  our  old  camp,  which  we 
had  left  the  tenth  of  December,  and  re-occupied  it.  Saw  the  traces  of 
the  Doctor  and  his  companion,  but  could  not  discover  the  place  of  their 
retreat. 

This  was  my  birth  day,  and  most  fervently  did  I  hope  never  to  pass 
another  so  miserably.  Distance  advanced,  seven  miles.  Fired  a  gun  as 
a  signal  for  the  Doctor. 

Tuesday,  6th  January. —  Despatched  the  two  soldiers  back  with  some 
provision  to  meet  the  first  men  and  assist  them  on;  and  sent  the'  inter- 
preter to  hunt.  About  eight  o'clock  the  Doctor  arrived,  having  seen  some 
of  the  men.  He  had  been  confined  to  the  camp  for  one  or  two  days,  by 
a  vertigo,  which  proceeded  from  some  berries  he  had  eaten  on  the  mount- 
ains. His  companion  brought  down  six  deer  which  they  had  at  their 
camp;  thus  we  again  began  to  be  out  of  danger  of  starving.  In  the  after- 
noon, some  of  the  men  arrived,  and  part  were  immediately  sent  back  with 
provisions,  &c.     Killed  three  deer. 

Wednesday,  7th  January. — Sent  more  men  back  to  assist  in  the  rear, 
and  to  carry  the  poor  fellows  provision:  at  the  same  time  kept  Baroney 
and  one  man  hunting.     Killed  three  deer. 

Thicrsday,  %t\\  January. —  Some  of  the  different  parties  arrived.  Put 
one  man  to  stocking  my  rifle.  Others  sent  back  to  assist  up  the  rear. 
Killed  two  deer. 

Friday,  9th  January.  —  The  whole  party  was  once  more  joined 
together,  when  we  felt  comparatively  happy,  notwithstanding  the  great 
mortifications  I  had  experienced  at  being  so  egregiously  deceived  as  to  the 
Red  river.  I  now  felt  at  considerable  loss  how  to  proceed,  as  any  idea 
of  service  at  that  time  from  my  horses  was  entirely  preposterous.  Thus, 
after  various  plans  formed  and  rejected,  and  the  most  mature  deliberation, 
I  determined  to  build  a  small  place  for  defence  and  deposit,  and  leave  part 
of  the  baggage,  horses,  my  interpreter,  and  one  man ;  and  with  the 
remainder,  with  our  packs  of  Indian  presents,  aminunition,  tools,  &c.,  on 
our  backs,  to  cross  the  mountains  on  foot,  find  the  Red  river,  and  then 
send  back  a  detachment  to  conduct  the  horses  and  baggage  after  us,  by 


222  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

the  most  eligible  route  we  could  discover;  by  which  time  we  calculated 
our  horses  would  be  so  far  recovered  as  to  be  able  to  endure  the  fatigue 
of  the  march.  In  consequence  of  this  determination,  some  were  put  to 
constructing  block  houses,  some  to  hunting,  some  to  take  care  of  horses, 
&c.,  &c.  I  myself  made  preparations  to  pursue  a  course  of  observations, 
that  would  enable  me  to  ascertain  the  latitude  and  longitude  of  the  situa- 
tion, which  I  conceived  to  be  an  important  one.     Killed  three  deer. 

Saturday,  loth  January. — Killed  five  deer.  Took  equal  altitudes, 
angular  distances  of  two  stars,  &c,,  but  now  do  not  recollect  which.  Killed 
three  more  deer. 

Sunday,  1 1  th  January.  —  Ascertained  the  latitude,  and  took  the 
angular  distances  of  some  stars.     Killed  four  deer. 

Monday,  12th  January. —  Preparing  the  baggage  for  a  march,  by 
separating  it,  &c.     Observations  continued. 

Tuesday,  i-xlCoi  January. — Weighed  out  each  man's  pack.  This  day  I 
obtained  the  angle  between  the  sun  and  moon,  which  I  conceived  the  most 
correct  way  I  possessed  of  ascertaining  the  longitude,  as  an  immersion  or 
emersion  of  Jupiter's  satellites  could  not  now  be  obtained.  Killed  four 
deer. 

Wednesday,  14th  January. —  We  marched  our  party,  consisting  of 
eleven  soldiers,  the  Doctor,  and  myself,  each  of  us  carrying  forty-five 
pounds,  and  as  much  provision  as  he  thought  proper;  which,  with  arms, 
&c.,  made  on  an  average  seventy  pounds,  leaving  Baroney  and  one  man, 
Patrick  Smith,  behind.  We  crossed  the  first  ridge,  leaving  the  main 
branch  of  the  river  to  the  north  of  us,  and  struck  on  the  south  fork,  on 
which  we  encamped,  intending  to  pursue  it  through  the  mountains,  as  its 
course  was  more  southerly.  The  Doctor  killed  one  deer.  Distance 
advanced,  thirteen  miles. 

Thursday,  15th  January. —  Followed  up  this  branch  and  passed  the 
main  ridge  of  what  I  term  the  Blue  Mountains.  Halted  early  ;  the  Doc- 
tor, myself,  and  one  hunter  went  out  with  our  guns,  each  killed  a  deer  and 
brought  them  into  a  camp.     Distance  advanced,  nineteen  miles. 

Friday,  i6th  January. —  Marched  up  the  creek  all  day.  Encamped 
early,  as  it  was  snowing.  I  went  out  to  hunt,  but  killed  nothing.  Deer 
on  the  hills  and  mountains  lessening.     Distance  advanced,  eighteen  miles. 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  LOUISIANA.  223 

Saturday,  17th  January. —  Marched  about  four  miles  when  the  great 
White  Mountain  presented  itself  before  us ;  in  sight  of  which  we  had 
been  for  more  than  a  month,  and  through  which  we  supposed  lay  the  long 
sought  Red  river.  We  now  left  the  creek  on  the  north  of  us,  and  bore 
away  more  east  to  a  low  place  in  the  mountains.  About  sunset  we  came 
to  the  edge  of  a  prairie,  which  bounded  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  and  as 
there  was  no  wood  or  water  where  we  were,  and  the  wood  from  the  skirts 
of  the  mountain  appeared  to  be  at  no  great  distance,  I  thought  proper  to 
march  for  it.  In  the  middle  of  the  prairie  crossed  the  creek  which  now 
bore  almost  east.  Here  we  all  got  our  feet  wet.  The  night  commenced 
extremely  cold.  When  we  halted  at  the  woods  at  eight  o'clock  for 
encampment,  after  getting  fires  made,  we  discovered  that  the  feet  of  nine  of 
bur  men  were  frozen,  and  to  add  to  the  misfortune,  of  both  of  those  whom 
we  called  hunters  among  the  number.  This  night  we  had  no  provision. 
Distance  advanced,  twenty-eight  miles.  Reaumeure's  thermometer  stood 
at  1 81^°  below  0. 

Sunday,  i8th  January.  —  We  started  out  two  of  the  men  least 
injured  ;  the  Doctor  and  myself  (who  fortunately  were  untouched  by  the 
frost)  also  went  out  to  hunt  for  something  to  preserve  existence.  Near 
evening  we  wounded  a  buffalo  with  three  balls,  but  had  the  mortification 
to  see  him  run  off  notwithstanding.  We  concluded  it  was  useless  to  go 
home  to  add  to  the  general  gloom,  and  went  amongst  some  rocks,  where 
we  encamped,  and  sat  up  all  night,  as  from  the  intense  cold  it  was  impos- 
sible to  sleep  :  also,  hungry  and  without  cover. 

Monday,  19th  January. — We  again  took  the  field,  and  after  crawling 
about  one  mile  in  the  snow,  got  to  shoot  eight  times  among  a  gang  of 
buffaloes,  and  could  plainly  perceive  two  or  three  to  be  badly  wounded, 
but  by  accident  they  took  the  wind  of  us,  and  to  our  great  mortification 
were  all  able  to  run  off.  By  this  time  I  was  become  extremely  weak  and 
faint,  being  the  fourth  day  since  we  had  received  sustenance,  the  whole  of 
which  time  we  were  marching  hard,  and  the  last  night  had  scarcely  closed 
our  eyes  to  sleep.  We  were  then  inclining  our  course  to  a  point  of  wood, 
determined  to  remain  absent  and  die  by  ourselves  rather  than  return  to  our 
camp  and  behold  the  misery  of  our  poor  companions  ;  when  we  discovered 
a  gang  of  buffaloes  coming  along  at  some  distance.  With  great  exertion 
I  made  out  to  run  and  place  myself  behind  some  cedars,  and  by  the  great- 
est good  luck  the  first  shot  stopped  one,  which   we  killed  in  three  more 


224  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

shots,  and  by  the  dusk  had  cut  each  of  us  a  heavy  load,  with  which  we 
determined  immediately  to  proceed  to  the  camp  in  order  to  relieve  the 
anxiety  of  our  men,  and  carry  them  some  relief.  We  arrived  there  about 
twelve  o'clock,  and  when  I  threw  my  load  down,  it  was  with  difficulty  I 
prevented  myself  from  falling :  I  was  attacked  with  a  giddiness  which 
lasted  for  some  minutes.  On  the  countenances  of  the  men  was  not  a 
frown,  nor  was  there  a  desponding  eye ;  all  seemed  happy  to  hail  their 
officer  and  companions ;  yet  not  a  mouthful  had  they  eaten  for  four  days. 
On  demanding  what  were  their  thoughts,  the  sergeant  replied,  the  most 
robust  had  determined  to  set  out  on  the  morrow  in  search  of  us ;  and  not 
return  unless  they  found  us,  or  killed  something  to  preserve  the  lives  of 
their  starving  companions. 

Tuesday,  20X^0.  January. — The  Doctor  and  all  the  men  able  to  march, 
returned  to  the  buffalo  to  bring  in  the  remainder  of  the  meat. 

On  examining  the  feet  of  those  who  were  frozen,  we  found  it  impossi- 
ble for  two  of  them  to  proceed.  And  two  others  only  without  loads  by  the 
help  of  a  stick.  One  of  the  former  was  my  waiter,  a  promising  young  lad 
of  twenty,  whose  feet  were  so  badly  frozen  as  to  present  every  probability 
'  of  his  loosing  them. 

The  Doctor  and  party  returned  towards  evening  loaded  with  the  buffalo 
meat. 

Wednesday,  21st  January. — This  day  separated  the  four  loads  we 
intended  to  leave,  and  took  them  at  soraedistancefrom  the  camp,  where  we 
secured  them.  I  went  up  to  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  to  see  what  prospect 
there  was  of  being  able  to  cross  it,  but  had  not  more  than  fairly  arrived  at 
its  base  when  I  found  the  snow  four  or  five  feet  deep;  this  obliged  me  to 
determine  to  proceed  and  cotoyer  the  mountains  to  the  south,  where  it 
appeared  lower,  and  until  we  found  a  place  where  we  could  cross. 

Thursday,  22di  January. — I  furnished  the  two  poor  fellows  who  were 
to  remain  with  ammunition,  and  made  use  of  every  argument  in  my  power 
to  encourage  them  to  have  fortitude  to  resist  their  fate,  and  gave  them 
assurances  of  my  sending  relief  as  soon  as  possible. 

We  parted,  but  not  without  tears.  We  pursued  our  march,  taking 
merely  sufficient  provision  for  one  meal,  in  order  to  leave  as  much  as  pos- 
sible for  the  two  poor  fellows  who  remained  (who  were  Thomas  Dougherty 
and  John  Sparks).     We  went  on  eight  miles  and  encamped    on  a   little 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  LOUISIANA.  225 

creek,  which  came  down  from  the  mountains.  At  three  o'clock  went  out 
to  hunt^  but  found  nothing.     Little  snow. 

Friday,  22,d  January. — After  shewing  the  sergeant  a  point  to  steer 
for,  the  Doctor  and  myself  proceeded  on  a-head,  in  hopes  of  killing  some- 
thing, as  we  were  again  without  victuals.  About  one  o'clock  it  commenced 
snowing  very  hard.  We  retreated  to  a  small  copse  of  pine,  where  we 
constructed  a  camp  to  shelter  us,  and  as  it  was  time  the  party  should 
arrive,  we  sallied  forth  to  search  for  them. 

We  separated,  and  had  not  marched  more  than  one  or  two  miles, 
when  I  found  it  impossible  to  keep  any  course  without  the  compass  con- 
tinually in  my  hand,  and  then  not  being  able  to  see  more  than  ten  yards. 
I  began  to  perceive  the  difificulty  even  of  finding  the  way  back  to  our 
camp ;  and  I  can  scarcely  conceive  a  more  dreadful  idea  than  that  of 
remaininof  on  the  wild,  where  inevitable  death  must  have  ensued.  It  was 
with  great  pleasure  I  again  reached  the  camp,  where  I  found  the  Doctor 
had  arrived  before  me.  We  lay  down  ^nd  strove  to  dissipate  the  ideas  of 
hunger  and  our  misery,  by  the  thoughts  of  our  far  distant  homes  and  rela- 
tives.    Distance  advanced,  eight  miles. 

Saturday,  2 ^t\\  January. — We  sallied  out  in  the  morning,  and  shortly 
after  perceived  our  little  band  marching  through  the  snow,  then  about  two 
feet  and  a  half  deep,  silent  and  with  downcast  countenances.  We  joined 
them,  and  learnt  that  finding  the  snow  to  fall  so  thickly  that  it  was  impos- 
sible to  proceed,  they  had  encamped  about  one  o'clock  the  preceding  day. 
As  I  found  all  the  buffaloes  had  left  the  plains,  I  determined  to  attempt 
the  traverse  of  the  mountains,  in  which  we  persevered,  until  the  snow 
became  so  deep  as  to  render  it  impossible  to  proceed;  when  I  again  turned 
my  face  to  the  plain,  and  for  the  first  time  in  the  journey  found  myself  dis- 
couraged; and  it  was  the  first  time  I  heard  a  man  express  himself  in  a  sedi- 
tious manner.  One  had  exclaimed,  "  that  it  was  more  than  human  nature 
could  bear  to  march  three  days  without  sustenance,  through  snows  three 
feet  deep,  and  carry  burdens  only  fit  for  horses." 

As  I  knew  very  well  the  fidelity  and  attachment  of  the  majority  of  the 
men,  and  even  of  this  poor  fellow,  only  he  could  not  endure  fasting,  and 
that  it  was  in  my  power  to  chastise  him  when  I  thought  proper,  I  passed  it 
over  for  the  moment,  determined  to  notice  it  at  a  more  auspicious  time. 


226  TRAVELS    THROUGH     ' 

We  dragged  our  weary  and  emaciated  limbs  along,  until  about  ten 
o'clock.  The  Doctor  and  myself,  who  were  in  advance,  discovered  some 
buffaloes  on  the  plain,  when  we  left  our  loads  and  orders  on  the  snow  to 
proceed  to  the  nearest  woods  to  encamp.  We  went  in  pursuit  of  the  buf- 
faloes which  were  on  the  move. 

The  Doctor,  who  was  then  less  reduced  than  myself,  ran  and  got 
behind  a  hill  and  shot  one  down,  which  stopped  the  remainder.  We 
crawled  up  to  the  dead  one,  and  shot  from  him  as  many  as  twelve  or  four- 
teen times  among  the  herd  ;  when  th,  y  removed  out  of  sight.  We  then 
proceeded  to  butcher  the  one  we  had  shot,  and  after  procuring  each  of  us 
a  load  of  the  meat,  marched  for  the  camp,  the  smoke  of  which  was  in 
view.  We  arrived  there  to  the  great  joy  of  our  brave  lads,  who  immedi- 
ately feasted  sumptuously.  After  our  repast,  I  sent  for  the  man  who  had 
presumed  to  speak  discontentedly  in  the  course  of  the  day,  and  addressed 
him  to  the  following  effect: 

"  Brown,  you  this  day  presumed  to  make  use  of  language  which  was 
seditious  and  mutinous ;  I  then  passed  it  over,  pitying  your  situation  and 
attributing  your  conduct  to  your  distress,  rather  than  your  inclination  to 
sow  discontent  amongst  the  party.  Had  I  reserved  provisions  for  our- 
selves, whilst  you  were  starving ;  had  we  been  marching  along  light  and 
at  our  ease,  whilst  you  were  weighed  down  with  your  burden,  then  you 
would  have  had  some  pretext  for  your  observations  ;  but  when  we  were 
equally  hungry,  weary,  emaciated  and  charged  with  burdens  which  I 
believe  my  natural  strength  is  less  able  to  bear  than  any  man's  in  the 
party ;  when  we  are  always  foremost  in  breaking  the  road,  reconnoitring 
and  enduring  the  fatigues  of  the  chase,  it  was  the  height  of  ingratitude  in 
you  to  let  an  expression  escape  which  was  indicative  of  discontent.  Your 
ready  compliance  and  firm  perseverance  I  had  reason  to  expect,  as  the 
leader  of  men  who  are  my  companions  in  misery  and  danger.  But  your 
duty  as  a  soldier  called  on  your  obedience  to  your  officer,  and  a  prohibition 
of  such  language,  which  for  this  time  I  will  pardon  ;  but  assure  you, 
should  it  ever  be  repeated,  by  instant  death  I  will  revenge  your  ingrati- 
tude and  punish  your  disobedience.  I  take  this  opportunity  likewise  to 
express  to  you,  soldiers,  generally,  my  thanks  for  your  obedience,  perse- 
verance, and  ready  contempt  of  every  danger,  which  you  have  in  common 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  LOUISIANA.  ■    227 

evinced:  and  assure  you  nothing  shall  be  wanting  on  my  part,  to  procure 
you  the  rewards  of  our  government  and  the  gratitude  of  your  country- 
men." 

They  all  appeared  very  much  affected,  and  retired  with  assurances  of 
perseverance  in  their  duty.     Distance  advanced,  nine  miles. 

Sunday,  25th  January. — I  determined  never  again  to  march  with  so 
little  provision  on  hand  ;  for  had  the  storm  continued  one  day  longer,  the 
animals  would  have  continued  in  the  mountains,  and  we  should  have 
become  so  weak  as  not  to  be  able  to  hunt,  and  of  course  have  perished. 

The  Doctor  went  out  with  the  men,  and  secured  three  of  the  buffaloes, 
and  commenced  bringing  in  the  meat,  at  which  we  continued  all  day. 

Monday,  26th  January. — Got  in  all  the  meat  and  dried  it  on  a  scaffold ; 
intending  to  take  as  much  as  possible  along  and  leave  one  of  my  frozen 
lads  with  the  remainder,  as  a  deposit  for  the  parties  who  might  return  for 
them  with  the  baggage,  &c.,  on  their  way  to  Baroney's  camp. 

Tuesday,  27th  January. — We  proceeded  on  our  march,  determining 
to  cross  the  mountains,  leaving  Menaugh  encamped  with  our  deposit. 
After  a  bad  day's  march  through  snows,  some  places  three  feet  deep,  we 
struck  on  a  brook  that  led  west,  which  I  followed  down,  and  shortly  came 
to  a  small  stream,  running  in  the  same  direction.  This  we  hailed  with  fer- 
vency, as  the  waters  of  the  Red  river.  Saw  some  sign  of  elk.  Distance 
advanced,  fourteen  miles. 

Wednesday,  2Sth  January. — Followed  down  the  ravine,  and  discovered 
after  some  time  that  there  had  been  a  road  cut  out,  and  on  many  trees  were 
various  hieroglyphics  painted.  After  marching  some  miles  we  discovered, 
through  the  lengthy  vista  at  a  distance,  another  chain  of  mountains,  and 
nearer  to  us  at  the  foot  of  the  White  Mountains,  which  we  were  then 
descending,  sandy  hills. 

We  marched  on  to  the  outlet  of  the  mountain  and  left  the  sandy 
desert  to  our  right ;  kept  down  between  it  and  the  mountain.  When  we 
encamped  I  ascended  one  of  the  largest  hills  of  sand,  and  with  my  glass 
could  discover  a  large  river,  flowing  nearly  north  by  west  and  south  by 
east  through  the  plain  which  came  out  of  the  third  chain  of  mountains 
about  north  75°  west.  The  prairie  between  the  two  chains  of  mount- 
ains bore  nearly  north  and  south  :  I  returned  to  camp  with  the  news  of  my 
discovery.    The  sand  hills  extended  up  and  down  at  the  foot  of  the  White 


228  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

Mountains  about  fifteen  miles,  and  appeared  to  be  about  five  miles  in  width. 
Their  appearance  was  exactly  that  of  the  sea  in  a  storm,  except  as  to  colour, 
not  the  least  sign  of  vegetation  existing  on  them.  Distance  advanced, 
fifteen  miles. 

Thtirsday,  29th  January.  —  Finding  the  distance  too  great  to 
attempt  crossing  immediately  to  the  river  in  a  direct  line,  we  marched 
obliquely  to  a  copse  of  woods  which  made  down  a  considerable  distance 
from  the  mountain.  Distance  advanced,  seventeen  miles.  Saw  sign  of 
horses. 

Friday,  2)OXh.  January. —  We  marched  hard  and  in  the  evening  arrived 
on  the  banks  of  the  Rio  del  Norte,  then  supposed  to  be  the  Red  river. 
Distance  advanced,  twenty-four  miles. 

Saturday,  jii^X.  January. —  As  there  was  no  timber  here,  we  deter- 
mined on  descending  until  we  found  some,  in  order  to  make  transports  to 
descend  the  river  with  ;  where  we  might  establish  a  position  that  four  or 
five  might  defend  against  the  insolence,  cupidity  or  barbarity  of  the  sav- 
ages; whilst  the  others  returned  to  assist  on  the  poor  fellows  who  were  left 
behind  at  different  points.  We  descended  eighteen  miles,  when  we  met  a 
large  west  branch,  emptying  into  the  main  stream;  up  which,  about  five 
miles,  we  took  our  station.  Killed  one  deer.  Distance  advanced,  eighteen 
miles. 

Sunday,  ist  February. —  Laid  out  the  plan  for  our  works,  and  went 
out  hunting. 

Monday,  2d  February. — The  Doctor  and  myself  went  out  to  hunt,  and 
with  great  difficulty  by  night  killed  one  deer,  at  the  distance  of  seven  or 
eight  miles  from  camp,  which  we  carried  in. 

Tuesday,  3d  February. — Spent  this  day  in  reading,  &c. 

Wednesday,  4th  February. — Went  out  hunting,  but  could  not  kill 
anything.     One  of  my  men  killed  a  deer. 

Thursday,  5th  February. — The  Doctor  and  myself  went  out  to  hunt, 
and  after  chasing  some  deer  several  hours  without  success,  we  ascended  a 
high  hill,  which  lay  south  of  our  camp,  from  whence  we  had  a  view  of  all 
the  prairie  and  rivers  to  the  north  of  us  :  it  was  one  of  the  most  sublime 
and  beautiful  inland  prospects  ever  presented  to  the  eyes  of  man.  The 
prairie  lying  nearly  north  and  south,  was  propably  sixty  miles  by  forty-five. 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  LOUISIANA.  229 

The  main  river  bursting  out  of  the  western  mountains  and  meeting 
from  the  north-east  a  large  branch  which  divides  the  chain,  proceeds  down 
the  prairie,  making  many  large  and  beautiful  islands,  one  of  which  I  judge 
contains  one  hundred  thousand  acres  of  land,  all  meadow  ground,  covered 
with  innumerable  herds  of  deer.  About  six  miles  from  the  mountains 
which  cross  the  prairie,  at  the  south  end,  a  branch  of  twelve  steps  wide 
pays  its  tribute  to  the  main  stream  from  the  western  course.  Due  W.  12. 
N.  75.  W.  6.  Four  miles  below  is  a  stream  of  the  same  size,  which  enters 
on  the  east ;  its  general  course  is  N.  65  E.,  up  which  was  a  large  road  ;  down 
from  the  entrance  of  this,  was  about  three  miles  to  the  junction  of  the 
western  Fork,  which  waters  the  foot  of  the  hill  on  the  north,  whilst  the  main 
river  wound  along  in  meanders  on  the  east.  In  short,  this  view  combined 
the  sublime  and  beautiful. 

The  great  and  lofty  mountains  covered  with  eternal  snow,  seemed  to 
surround  the  luxuriant  vale  crowned  with  perennial  flowers,  I'ke  a  terres- 
trial paradise,  shut  out  from  the  view  of  man. 

The  country  we  had  traversed  from  the  Arkansaw  to  the  Rio  del 
Norte  was  covered  with  mountains  and  small  prairies,  but  the  game  be- 
comes gradually  much  more  scarce,  owing  to  the  vicinity  of  the  Spanish 
Indians,  and  the  Spaniards  themselves.  In  this  western  traverse  of  Lou- 
isiana, the  following  general  observations  may  be  made:  from  the  Mis- 
souri to  the  head  of  the  Osage  river,  a  distance  in  a  straight  line  probably 
of  three  hundred  miles,  the  country  will  admit  of  a  numerous,  extensive, 
and  compact  population  ;  from  thence  on  the  rivers  Kanses,  La  Plate,  Ar- 
kansaw, and  their  various  branches,  it  appears  to  me  to  be  only  possible 
to  introduce  a  limited  population.  The  inhabitants  would  find  it  most  to 
their  advantage  to  pay  attention  to  the  rearing  of  cattle,  horses,  sheep 
and  goats :  all  of  which  they  can  raise  in  abundance,  the  earth  producing 
spontaneously  sufficient  for  their  support,  both  in  winter  and  summer,  by 
which  means  their  herds  might  become  immensely  numerous ;  but  the 
wood  now  in  the  country  would  not  be  sufficient  for  a  moderate  popula- 
tion more  than  fifteen  years,  and  then  it  would  be  out  of  the  question  to 
think  of  using  any  of  it  in  manufactories,  consequently  their  houses  would 
be  built  entirely  of  mud  bricks  (like  those  in  New  Spain),  or  of  the  brick 
manufactured  with  fire  ;  but  possibly  time  may  make  the  discovery  of  coal 
mines,  which  would  render  the  country  habitable.     The  source  of  the  La 


230  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

Plate,  as  before  observed,  is  situated  in  the  same  chain  of  mountains  as 
the  Arkansaw,  and  comes  from  that  grand  reservoir  of  snows  and  foun- 
tains, which  gives  birth  on  its  north-eastern  side  to  the  Red  river,  the  Yel- 
low Stone  river  of  Lewis,  and  of  the  Missouri  (its  great  south-western 
branch),  and  the  Plate ;  on  its  south-western  side,  it  produces  the  Rio  Col- 
orado of  California,  on  its  eastern  the  Arkansaw,  and  on  its  southern  the 
Rio  del  Norte  of  North  Mexico.  I  have  no  hesitation  in  asserting  I  can 
take  a  position  in  the  mountains  from  whence  I  can  visit  either  of  those 
rivers  in  one  day.* 

Numerous  have  been  the  hypotheses  formed  by  various  naturalists,  to 
account  for  the  vast  tract  of  untimbered  country  which  lies  between  the 
waters  of  the  Missouri,  Mississippi  and  the  western  ocean,  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Mississippi  to  the  48^  north  latitude.  Although  not  flattering 
myself  to  be  able  to  elucidate  what  numbers  of  highly  scientific  charac- 
ters have  acknowledged  to  be  beyond  their  depth  of  research,  still  I  would 
not  think  I  had  done  my  country  justice,  did  I  not  give  publicity  to  what 
few  lights  my  examination  of  those  internal  deserts  has  enabled  me  to 
acquire.  In  that  vast  country  of  which  we  speak,  we  find  the  soil  gener- 
ally dry,  sandy,  with  gravel ;  and  discover  that  the  moment  we  approach 
a  stream,  the  land  becomes  more  humid  with  small  timber :  I  therefore 
conclude  that  this  country  never  was  wooded,  as  from  the  earliest  age  the 
aridity  of  the  soil,  having  so  few  water-courses  running  through  it,  and 
they  being  principally  dry  in  summer,  has  never  afforded  moisture  suf- 
ficient to  support  the  growth  of  timber.  In  all  timbered  land  the  annual 
discharge  of  the  leaves,  with  the  continual  decay  of  old  trees  and 
branches,  creates  a  manure  and  moisture,  which  are  preserved  from  the 
heat,  the  sun  not  being  permitted  to  direct  his  rays  perpendicularly,  but 
only  to  shed  them  obliquely  through  the  foliage.  But  here  a  barren  soil, 
parched  and  dried  up  for  eight  months  in  the  year,  presents  neither  moist- 
ure nor  nutriment  sufficient  for  the  growth  of  wood.  These  vast  plains 
of  the  western  hemisphere  may  become  in  time  equally  celebrated  with 
the  sandy  deserts  of  Africa,  for  I  saw  in  my  route,  in  various  places,  tracts 
of  many  leagues  where  the  wind  had  thrown  up  the  sand,  in  all  the  fanci- 
ful forms  of  the  ocean's  rolling  waves,  and  on  which  not  a  speck  of  vege- 
tation   existed.     But  from    these  immense  '  prairies  may  arise  one  great 

*  This  must  evidently  be  a  mistake  so  far  as  it  relates  to  the  Red  river,  wiiich 
rises  far  to  the  sotthward.     E. 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  LOUISIANA.  231 

advantage  to  the  United  States,  viz.,  the  restriction  of  our  population  to 
some  certain  limits,  and  thereby  a  continuation  of  the  union.  Our  citi- 
zens being  so  prone  to  rambling,  and  extending  themselves  on  the  front- 
iers, will,  through  necessity,  be  constrained  to  limit  their  extent  on  the 
west  to  the  borders  of  the  Missouri  and  Mississippi,  while  they  leave  the 
prairies,  incapable  of  cultivation,  to  the  wandering  and  uncivilized 
Aborigines  of  the  country. 

Friday,  6th  February. — The  Doctor  having  some  pecuniary  demands 
on  the  Province  of  New  Mexico,  conceived  this  to  be  the  most  eligible 
point  for  him  to  set  out  from,  in  order  to  return  previously  to  all  my  party 
having  joined  me  from  the  Arkansaw,  and  before  I  could  be  prepared 
to  descend  to  Natchitoches.  He  therefore  this  day  made  his  preparations 
for  proceeding  on  the  morrow.  I  went  out  hunting,  and  killed  a  deer  at 
three  miles'  distance;  which  with  great  difificulty  I  brought  in  whole. 

We  continued  to  go  on  with  our  stockade  or  breast-work,  which  was 
situated  on  the  north  bank  of  the  western  branch,  about  five  miles  from 
its  junction  with  the  main  river.* 

*  The  stockade  was  situated  in  a  small  prairie,  on  the  west  fork  of  the  Rio  del 
Norte.  The  south  flank  joining  the  edge  of  the  river,  (which  at  that  place  was  not 
fordable,)  the  east  and  west  curtains  were  flanked  by  bastions  in  the  N.  E.  and  N.W. 
angles,  which  likewise  flanked  the  curtain  of  the  north  side  of  the  work.  The  stock- 
ade from  the  centre  of  the  angles  of  the  bastions  was  thirty-six  feet  square.  There 
were  heavy  cottonwood  logs  about  two  feet  diameter,  laid  up  all  round  about  six  feet, 
after  which  lighter  ones  until  we  made  it  twelve  feet  in  height ;  these  logs  were 
joined  together  by  a  lap  of  about  two  feet  at  each  end.  We  then  dug  a  small  ditch 
on  the  inside  all  round,  making  it  perpendicular  on  the  internal  side,  and  sloping 
next  the  work:  in  this  ditch  we  planted  small  stakes  of  about  six  inches  diameter,  sharp- 
ened at  the  upper  end  to  a  nice  point,  slanted  them  over  the  top  of  the  work,  giving 
them  about  two  and  a  half  feet  projection.  We  then  secured  them  below  and  above 
in  that  position,  which  formed  a  small  pointed  frieze,  which  must  have  been  removed 
before  the  works  could  have  been  scaled.  Lastly,  we  had  dug  a  ditch  round  the 
whole  four  feet  wide,  and  let  the  water  into  it ;  the  earth  taken  out  being  thrown 
against  the  work,  formed  an  excellent  rampart  against  small  arms,  three  or  four  feet 
high.  Our  mode  of  getting  in  was  to  crawl  over  the  ditch  on  a  plank,  and  into  a 
small  hole  sunk  below  the  level  of  the  work  near  the  river  for  that  purpose.  Our 
port-holes  we  pierced  about  eight  feet  from  the  ground,  and  a  platform  prepared  to 
shoot  from. 

Thus  fortified,  I  should  not  have  had  the  least  hesitation  in  putting  the  hundred 
Spanish  horse  at  defiance  until  the  first  and  second  night,  and  then  to  have  made  our 


232  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

Saturday,  7th  February. — The  Doctor  marched  alone  for  Santa  Fe.f 
In  the  evening  I  despatched  Corporal  Jackson  with  four  men  to  recross 
the  mountains,  in  order  to  bring  in  the  baggage  left  with  the  frozen  men, 
and  to  see  if  they  were  yet  able  to  proceed.  This  detachment  left  me 
with  four   men  only,  two  of   whom    had  their  feet   frozen :    they  were 

escape  under  cover  of  the  darkness  ;  or  made  a  sally  and  dispersed  them,  when  rest- 
ing under  a  full  confidence  of  our  being  panic  struck  by  their  numbers  and  force. 

f  The  demands  which  Dr.  Robinson  had  on  persons  in  New  Mexico,  although 
originally  legitimate,  were  in  some  degree  spurious  in  his  hands:  the  circumstances 
were  as  follows  :  In  the  year  1804,  William  Morrison,  Esq.,  an  enterprising  merchant 
of  Kaskaskias,  sent  a  man  by  the  name  of  Babtiste  Lalande,  a  Creole  of  the  country 
of  Missouri  and  of  La  Plate,  directing  him  if  possible  to  push  into  Santa  Fe.  He 
sent  in  Indians,  and  the  Spaniards  came  out  with  horses  and  carried  him  and  his 
goods  into  the  province.  Finding  that  he  sold  the  goods  high,  had  land  ofifered  him 
and  that  the  women  were  kind,  he  concluded  to  expatriate  himself,  and  convert  the 
property  of  Morrison  to  his  own  benefit.  When  I  was  about  to  sail,  Morrison  con- 
ceiving that  it  was  possible  I  might  meet  some  Spanish  factors  on  the  Red  river, 
intrusted  me  with  the  claim,  in  order  if  they  were  acquainted  with  Lalande,  I  might 
negotiate  the  affair  with  some  of  them.  When  on  the  frontiers,  the  idea  suggested 
itself  to  us  of  making  this  claim  a  pretext  for  Robinson  to  visit  Santa  Fe.  We  there- 
fore gave  it  the  proper  appearance,  and  he  marched  for  that  place.  Our  views  were 
to  gain  a  knowledge  of  the  country,  the  prospect  of  trade,  force,  &c.,  whilst  at  the 
same  time  our  treaties  with  Spain  guaranteed  to  him,  as  a  citizen  of  the  United 
States,  the  right  of  seeking  the  recovery  of  all  just  debts,  dues,  or  demands,  before 
the  legal  and  authorized  tribunals  of  the  country,  as  a  franchised  inhabitant  of  the 
same,  as  specified  in  the  22A  article  of  the  treaty. 

As  it  was  uncertain  whether  this  gentleman  would  ever  join  me  again,  I  at  that 
time  committed  the  following  testimonial  of  respect  for  his  good  qualities  to  paper, 
which  I  do  not  at  this  time  feel  any  disposition  to  efface. 

He  has  had  the  benefit  of  a  liberal  education,  without  having  spent  his  time  as 
too  many  of  our  gentlemen  do  in  colleges,  in  skimming  over  the  surfaces  of  science, 
without  ever  endeavouring  to  make  themselves  masters  of  the  solid  foundations  ;  but 
he  had  studied  and  reasoned.  With  these  qualifications  he  possessed  a  liberality  of 
mind  too  great  ever  to  reject  an  hypothesis,  because  it  was  not  agreeable  to  the 
dogmas  of  the  schools  ;  or  adopt  it,  because  it  had  all  the  eclat  of  novelty.  His  soul 
could  conceive  great  actions,  and  his  hand  was  ready  to  achieve  them  :  in  short,  it 
may  truly  be  said,  that  nothing  was  above  his  genius,  nor  anything  so  minute  that  he 
conceived  it  entirely  unworthy  of  consideration.  As  a  gentleman  and  companion  in 
dangers,  difficulties  and  hardships,  I,  in  particular,  and  the  expedition  in  general,  owe 
much  to  his  exertions. 


THE  INTERIOR  OF   LOUISIANA.  233 

employed  in  finishing  the  stockade,  and  myself  in  supporting  them  by  the 
chase. 

Sunday,  8th  February. — Refreshing  my  memory  as  to  the  French 
grammar,  and  observing  the  work. 

Monday,  9th  February. — Hunting,  &c. 

Tuesday,  loth  February. — Read,  and  laboured  at  our  works. 

Wednesday,  nth.  February. — Hunting.     Killed  three  deer. 

Thursday,  12th  February. — Studying. 
.  Friday,  13th  February. — Hunting.     Killed  two  deer. 

Saturday,  14th  February. — Crossed  the  river,  and  examined  the  numer- 
ous springs  which  issued  from  the  foot  of  the  hill  opposite  to  our  camp, 
which  were  so  strongly  impregnated  with  mineral  qualities  as  not  only  to 
keep  clear  of  ice,  previously  to  their  joining  the  main  branch,  but  to  keep 
open  the  west  Fork  until  its  junction  with  the  main  river,  and  for  a  few 
miles  afterwards  ;  whilst  all  the  other  branches  in  the  neighbourhood  were 
bound  in  the  adamantine  chains  of  winter. 

Sunday,  15th  February. — Reading,  and  works  going  on,  &c. 

Monday,  i6th  February. — I  took  one  man  and  went  out  hunting; 
about  six  miles  from  the  post  shot  and  wounded  a  deer.  Immediately 
afterwards  discovered  two  horsemen  rising  the  summit  of  a  hill,  about  half 
a  mile  to  our  right.  As  my  orders  were  to  avoid  giving  alarm  or  offence 
to  the  Spanish  government  of  New  Mexico  I  endeavoured  to  shun  them  at 
first,  but  when  we  attempted  to  retreat,  they  pursued  us  at  full  charge 
flourishing  their  lances,  and  when  we  advanced,  they  would  retire  as  fast 
as  their  horses  could  carry  them.  Seeing  this  we  got  into  a  small  ravine, 
in  hopes  to  decoy  them  near  enough  to  oblige  them  to  come  to  a  parley, 
which  happened  agreeably  to  our  desires.  As  they  came  on,  hunting  us 
with  great  caution,  we  suffered  them  to  get  within  forty  yards,  where  we 
had  allured  them,  but  were  about  running  off  again,  when  I  ordered  the 
soldier  to  lay  down  his  arms  and  walk  towards  them,  at  the  same  time 
standing  ready  with  my  rifle  to  kill  either  who  should  lift  an  arm  in  a  hos- 
tile manner.  I  then  hallooed  to  them,  that  we  were  Americans  and  friends, 
which  were  almost  the  only  two  words  I  knew  in  the  Spanish  language  : 
after  which,  with  great  signs  of  fear,  they  came  up,  and  proved  to  be  a 
Spanish  dragoon  and  a  civilized  Indian  ;  armed  after  their  manner,  of 
which  we  see  a  description  in  the  Essai  Militaire.     We  were  jealous  of  our 


234  TRAVELS   THROUGH 

arms  on  both  sides,  and  acted  with  great  precaution.  They  informed  me, 
that  was  the  fourth  day  since  they  had  left  Santa  Fe ;  that  Robinson  had 
arrived  there,  and  had  been  received  with  great  kindness  by  the  Governor. 
As  I  knew  them  to  be  spies,  I  thought  it  proper  merely  to  inform  them 
that  I  was  about  to  descend  the  river  to  Natchitoches.  We  sat  here  on  the 
ground  a  long  time,  and  finding  they  were  determined  not  to  leave  me, 
we  arose  and  bade  them  adieu  ;  but  they  demanded  where  our  camp  was, 
and  finding  they  were  not  about  to  depart,  I  thought  it  most  proper  to 
take  them  with  me,  thinking  we  were  on  Red  river,  and  of  course  in  the 
territory  claimed  by  the  United  States. 

We  took  the  road  to  my  fort,  and  as  they  were  on  horseback, 
they  travelled  rather  faster  than  myself.  They  were  halted  by  the 
sentinel,  and  immediately  retreated  much  surprised.  When  I  came  up 
I  took  them  in  and  then  explained  to  them  as  well  as  I  was  able,  my 
intentions  of  descending  the  river  to  Natchitoches  ;  but  at  the  same 
time  told  them  that  if  Governor  AUencaster  would  send  out  an  ofificer 
with  an  interpreter,  who  spoke  French  or  English,  I  would  do  myself 
the  pleasure  to  give  his  Excellency  every  reasonable  satisfaction  as  to 
my  intentions  in  coming  on  his  frontiers.  They  informed  me  that  on 
the  second  day  they  would  be  in  Santa  Fe,  but  were  careful  never  to 
suggest  an  idea  of  my  being  on  the  Rio  del  Norte.  As  they  con- 
cluded I  did  not  think  as  I  spoke,  they  were  very  anxious  to  ascertain 
our  number,  &c.  Seeing  only  five  men  here,  they  could  not  believe 
we  came  without  horses ;  to  this  I  did  not  think  proper  to  afford  them 
any  satisfaction,  giving   them  to   understand  we  were  in    many  parties. 

Tuesday,  ijth.  February. — In  the  morning  our  two  Spanish  visitors 
departed,  after  I  had  made  them  some  trifling  presents,  with  which  they 
seemed  highly  delighted.  After  their  departure  we  commenced  labouring 
at  our  little  work.  As  I  thought  it  probable  the  Governor  might  dispute 
my  right  to  descend  the  Red  river,  and  send  out  Indians  or  some  light 
party  to  attack  us,  I  determined  to  be  as  much  prepared  to  receive  them 
as  possible.  This  evening  the  corporal  and  three  of  the  men  arrived,  who 
had  been  sent  back  to  the  camp  of  their  frozen  companions.  They 
informed  me  that  two  more  would  arrive  the  next  day,  one  of  whom  was 
Menaugh,  who  had  been  left  alone  on  the  27th  January  ;  but  the  other  two, 
Dogherty  and  Sparks,  were  unable  to  come.     They  said  that  they  had 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  LOUISIANA.  235 

hailed  them  with  tears  of  joy,  and  were  in  despair  when  they  again  left 
them  with  the  chance  of  never  seeing  them  more.  They  sent  on  to  me 
some  of  the  bones  taken  out  of  their  feet,  and  conjured  me  by  all  that  was 
sacred,  not  to  leave  them  to  perish  far  from  the  civilized  world.  Oh  ! 
little  did  they  know  my  heart,  if  they  could  suspect  me  of  conduct  so 
ungenerous  !  No,  before  they  should  be  left,  I  would  for  months  have  car- 
ried the  end  of  a  litter,  in  order  to  secure  them  the  happiness  of  once  more 
seeing  their  native  homes,  and  being  received  in  the  bosom  of  a  grateful 
country. 

Thus,  these  poor  fellows  are  to  be  invalids  for  life,  made  infirm  at  the 
commencement  of  manhood,  and  in  the  prime  of  their  course ;  doomed  to 
pass  the  remainder  of  their  days  in  misery  and  want.  For  what  is  the 
pension  ?  not  sufficient  to  buy  a  man  his  victuals  !  What  man  would  even 
lose  the  smallest  of  his  joints  for  such  a  trifling  pittance  ! 

Wednesday,  i8th  February. — The  other  two  men  arrived:  in  the  even- 
ing I  ordered  the  sergeant  and  one  man  to  prepare  to  march  on  the  mor- 
row for  the  Arkansaw,  where  we  had  left  our  interpreter,  horses,  &c.,  to 
conduct  them  to  us,  and  on  his  return  to  bring  the  two  invalids,  who  were 
still  on  the  mountains. 

Thursday,  19th  February. — Sergeant  Meek  marched  with  one  man, 
whose  name  was  Theodore  Miller,  and  I  took  three  others  to  accompany 
him  some  distance,  in  order  to  point  out  to  him  a  pass  in  the  mountain, 
which  I  conceived  more  eligible  for  horses  than  the  one  we  had  penetrated. 

I  must  here  remark  the  effect  of  habit,  discipline,  and  example,  in  two 
soldiers  solicting  a  command  of  more  than  one  hundred  and  eighty  miles, 
over  two  great  ridges  of  mountains  covered  with  snow,  inhabited  by  bands 
of  unknown  savages  in  the  interest  of  a  nation  with  whom  we  were  not  on 
the  best  understanding:  and  to  perform  this  journey,  each  had  about  ten 
pounds  of  venison !  Only  let  me  ask,  what  would  our  soldiers  generally 
think  on  being  ordered  on  such  a  tour,  thus  equipped  ?  Yet  those  men 
volunteered  with  others,  and  were  chosen,  for  which  they  thought  them- 
selves highly  honoured. 

We  accompanied  them  about  six  miles,  pointed  out  the  pass  alluded 
to  in  a  particular  manner ;  but  the  corporal  reported  that  the  new  one 
which  I  had  obliged  him  to  take  was  impassable,  having  been  three 
days  in  snows  nearly  middle  deep. 


236  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

We  then  separated,  and  having  killed  a  deer,  sent  one  of  the  men 
back  to  the  fort  with  it.  With  the  other  two  I  kept  on  my  explor- 
ing trip  down  the  river  on  the  eastern  side,  at  some  leagues  from  its 
banks,  intending  to  return.  At  nine  o'clock  at  night,  encamped  on  a 
small  creek  which  emptied  into  the  river  by  nearly  a  due  east  course. 

Friday,  20th  February. — We  marched  down  the  river  for  a  few  hours, 
but  seeing  no  fresh  sign  of  persons,  or  any  other  object  to  attract  our 
attention,  took  up  our  route  for  the  fort;  discovered  the  sign  of  horses  and 
men  on  the  shore.     We  arrived  after  a  night's  absence,  and  found  all  well. 

Saturday,  21st  February. — As  I  was  suspicious  that  possibly  some 
party  of  Indians  might  be  harbouring  round,  I  gave  particular  orders  to  my 
men,  if  they  discovered  any  people  to  endeavour  to  retreat  unobserved;  but 
if  not,  never  to  run,  and  not  to  suffer  themselves  to  be  disarmed  or  taken 
prisoners,  but  conduct  whatever  party  discovered  them,  if  they  could  not 
escape,  to  the  fort. 

Sunday,  2  2d  February. — As  I  began  to  think  it  was  time  we  received 
a  visit  from  the  Spaniards,  or  their  emissaries,  I  established  a  look-out 
guard  on  the  top  of  a  hill  all  day,  and  at  night  a  sentinel  in  a  bastion  on 
the  land  side.  Studying,  reading,  &c.  Working  at  our  ditch  to  bring  the 
river  round  the  work. 

Monday,  23d  February. — Reading,  writing,  &c.;  the  men  at  the 
usual  work. 

Tuesday,  24th  February. — Took  one  man  with  me  and  went  out  on 
the  Spanish  road  hunting.  Killed  one  deer  and  wounded  several  others, 
and  as  we  were  a  great  distance  from  the  fort,  we  encamped  near  the  road 
all  night.     Saw  several  signs  of  horses. 

Wednesday,  25th  February. — Killed  two  more  deer,  when  we  marched 
for  out  post.  Took  all  three  of  the  deer  with  us,  and  arrived  about  nine 
o'clock  at  night,  as  much  fatigued  as  ever  I  was  in  my  life.  Our  arrival 
dissipated  the  anxiety  of  the  men,  who  began  to  be  apprehensive  we  were 
taken  or  killed  by  some  of  the  savages. 

Thursday,  26th  February. — In  the  morning  was  apprised  by  the  report 
of  a  gun  from  my  look-out  guard,  of  the  approach  of  strangers;  imme- 
diately after  two  Frenchmen  arrived. 

My  sentinel  halted  them,  and  I  ordered  them  to  be  admitted  after 
some  questions.  They  informed  me  that  his  excellency  Governor  Allen- 
caster,  hearing  it  was  the  intention  of  the  Utah  Indians  to  attack  me,  had 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  LOUISIANA.  237 

detached  an  officer  with  fifty  dragoons  to  come  out  and  protect  me,  and 
that  they  would  be  with  me  in  two  days.  To  this  I  made  no  reply,  but 
shortly  after  the  party  hove  in  sight,  as  I  afterwards  learnt ;  fifty  dragoons 
and  fifty  mounted  militia  of  the  province,  armed  In  the  same  manner  with 
lances,  escopates,  and  pistols.  My  sentinels  halted  them  at  the  distance 
of  about  fifty  yards.  I  had  the  works  manned :  I  thought  it  most  proper 
to  send  out  the  two  Frenchmen  to  inform  the  commanding  officer,  that  it 
was  my  request  he  should  leave  his  party  in  a  small  copse  of  Wood  where 
he  halted,  and  that  I  would  meet  him  myself  in  the  prairie,  in  which  our 
work  was  situated ;  this  I  did,  with  my  sword  on  me  only.  I  was  thus 
introduced  to  Don  Ignatio  Saltelo  and  Don  Bartholemew  Fernandez,  two 
lieutenants  ;  the  former  the  commander  of  the  party  :  I  gave  them  an  invi- 
tation to  enter  the  works,  but  requested  the  troops  might  remain  where 
they  were.  This  was  complied  with  :  but  when  they  came  round  and  dis- 
covered that  to  enter  they  were  obliged  to  crawl  on  their  bellies  over  a 
small  drawbridge,  they  appeared  astonished;  they  however  entered  with- 
out further  hesitation. 

We  first  breakfasted  on  some  deer,  meal,  goose,  and  some  biscuit, 
which  the  civilized  Indian  who  came  out  as  a  spy  had  brought  me.  After 
breakfast  the  commanding  officer  addressed  me  as  follows : 

"Sir,  the  Governor  of  New  Mexico,  being  informed  that  you  had 
missed  your  route,  ordered  me  to  offer  you  in  his  name,  mules,  horses, 
money,  or  whatever  you  may  stand  in  need  of,  to  conduct  you  to  the  head 
of  Red  river;  as  from  Santa  Fe,  to  where  it  is  sometimes  navigable,  is  eight 
days'  journey,  and  we  have  guides  and  the  routes  of  the  traders  to  con- 
duct us." 

"What,"  interrupted  I,  "  is  not  this  the  Red  river?"  "  No,  sir,  it  is 
the  Rio  del  Norte."  I  immediately  ordered  my  flag  to  be  taken  down 
and  rolled  up,  feeling  how  sensibly  I  had  committed  myself  in  entering 
their  territory,  and  was  conscious  that  they  must  have  positive  orders  to 
take  me  in.  He  now  added,  "  that  he  had  provided  one  hundred  mules 
and  horses  to  take  in  my  party  and  baggage,  and  stated  how  anxious  his 
excellency  was  to  see  me  at  Santa  Fe."  I  stated  to  him  the  absence  of 
my  sergeant,  the  situation  of  the  rest  of  the  party ;  and  that  my  orders 
would  not  justify  my  entering  into  the  Spanish  territories.  He  urged  still 
further,  until  I  began  to  feel  myself  a  little  heated  in  the  argument,  and 


238  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

told  him  in  a  peremptory  style,  I  would  not  go  until  the  arrival  of  my  ser- 
geant, with  the  remainder  of  my  party.  He  replied,  that  there  was  not  the 
least  restraint  to  be  used,  only  that  it  was  necessary  His  Excellency  should 
receive  an  explanation  of  my  business  on  his  frontier  ;  that  I  might  go 
now,  or  on  the  arrival  of  my  party  ;  but  that  if  none  went  at  present  he 
should  be  obliged  to  send  in  for  provisions.  He  added,  that  if  I  would 
now  march,  he  would  leave  an  Indian  interpreter  and  an  escort  of  dragoons 
to  conduct  the  sergeant  into  Santa  Fe.  His  mildness  induced  me  to  tell 
him  that  I  would  march,  but  must  leave  two  men  in  order  to  meet  the 
sergeant  and  party  to  instruct  him  as  to  coming  in,  as  he  would  never  do 
so  without  a  fight,  unless  ordered. 

I  was  induced  to  consent  to  the  measure,  by  conviction  that  the  officer 
had  a  positive  command  to  convey  me  in ;  and  as  I  had  no  orders  to  engage 
in  hostilities,  and  indeed  had  committed  myself,  although  innocently,  by 
violating  their  territory,  I  conceived  it  would  appear  better  to  shew  a  will 
to  come  to  an  explanation,  rather  than  be  any  way  constrained.  Yet  my 
situation  was  so  eligible,  and  I  could  so  easily  have  put  them  to  defiance, 
that  it  was  with  great  reluctance  I  suffered  all  our  labour  to  be  lost,  with- 
out once  trying  the  efficacy  of  it. 

My  compliance  seemed  to  spread  general  joy  through  the  Spanish 
party  as  soon  as  it  was  communicated.  But  it  appeared  to  be  different 
with  my  men,  who  wished  to  have  had  a  little  dust,  (as  they  expressed 
themselves,)  and  were  likewise  fearful  of  Spanish  treachery. 

My  determination  being  once  taken,  I  gave  permission  for  the 
lieutenant's  men  to  come  to  the  outside  of  the  works  and  some  of 
mine  to  go  out  and  see  them.  Immediately  the  hospitality  and  good- 
ness of  the  Creoles  and  Mestis  began  to  be  manifested  by  their  pro- 
ducing their  provision  and  giving  it  to  my  men ;  at  the  same  time  cov- 
ering them  with  their  blankets. 

After  writing  orders  to  my  sergeant,  and  leaving  them  with  my 
corporal  and  one  private  who  were  to  remain,  we  sallied  forth,  mounted 
our  horses,  and  went  up  the  river  about  twelve  miles  to  a  place  where 
the  Spanish  officers  had  made  a  camp  deposit,  from  whence  we  sent 
down  mules  for  our  baggage. 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  LOUISIANA. 


239 


Abstract  of  the  number  of  the  Indian  Nations  on  the  preceding  Route. 


•3  -S 

M 

c 

0 

c 

Names  Of  Nations. 

.2 

is 

S 
0 

2 

1 

1  = 

K 

^ 

0 

> 

3  "3 

J  1 

b 

.M 

•2  0 

»*^     0 

0 

0 

0 

«  CO 

°  (S 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

2 

0    u 

0 

!z: 

z 

Z 

^; 

£ 

z  -s 

»: 

Osage, 

1.252 

1.793 

74 

3 

4,019 

516 

1,200 

Kanses,     -    .    -    - 

465 

500 

600 

' 

1,565 

204 

450 

Pawnees,     -    -    -    - 

1.993 

2,170 

2,060 

3 

6,223 

174 

700 

letans,       -     .    -     - 

2,700 

3.000 

2,500 

8,200 

1,020 

270 

Total,     -     -     - 

6,410 

7.463 

6.134 

7 

20,007 

1,914 

2,620 

JOURNAL. 

OF    A 

TOUR  THROUGH   THE    INTERIOR   PROVINCES  OF   NEW 
SPAIN,  IN  THE  YEAR  1807,  IN  CONTINUATION 
OF  THE  PRECEDING  NARRATIVE. 

FRIDAY,  2 "^th  I^edruary.  —  In  the  morning  I  discovered  that  the 
lieutenant  was  writing  letters,  addressed  to  the  Governor  and  others, 
on  which  I  demanded  if  he  was  not  going  on  with  me  to  Santa  Fe.  He 
appeared  confused,  and  said  no  ;  that  his  orders  were  so  positive  as  to  the 
safe  conduct  and  protection  of  my  men,  that  he  durst  not  go  and  leave 
any  behind  ;  that  his  companion  would  accompany  me  to  Santa  Fe,  with  fifty 
men,  whilst  he,  with  the  others,  would  wait  for  the  sergeant  and  the  remain- 
der of  my  party.  I  replied  that  he  had  deceived  me,  and  had  not  acted 
with  candour:  but  it  was  now  too  late  for  me  to  remedy  the  evil. 

We  marched  about  eleven  o'clock,  ascending  the  Rio  del  Norte  five 
miles  more,  south,  60°  west,  when  we  went  round  through  a  chain  of  hills, 
and  bore  off  to  the  south.  We  proceeded  nine  miles  further,  when  we 
crossed  the  main  branch  of  that  stream,  which  was  now  bearing  nearly 
west,  towards  the  main  chain  of  the  third  chain  of  mountains.  We 
encamped  on  the  opposite  shore,  after  having  proceeded  fifteen  miles. 
The  weather  was  intensely  cold,  and  we  were  obliged  to  stop  frequently 
to  make  fires.     Snow  deep. 

Saturday,  28th  February. — We  marched  late.  One  of  the  French- 
men informed  me  that  the  expedition  which  had  been  at  the  Pawnees  had 
descended  the  Red  river  two  hundred  and  thirty-three  leagues,  and  had 
then  crossed  to  the  Pawnees,  expressly  in  search  of  my  party  (this  was 
afterwards  confirmed  by  the  gentleman  who  commanded  the  troops);  he 
then  expressed  great  regret  at  my  misfortunes,  as  he  termed  them,  in 
being  taken,  and  offered  his  services  in  secreting  papers,  &c.  I  easily  saw 
his  design,  but  for  my  amusement  I  thought  I  would  try  him,  and  accordingly 

241 


-42  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

gave  him  a  leaf  or  two  of  my  journal,  (^copied,)  which  mentioned  the  time 
of  our  sailing  from  Belle  Fontaine,  and  our  force.  This  I  charged  him 
to  guard  very  carefully,  and  return  to  me  after  the  investigation  of  my 
papers  at  Santa  Fe.  This  day  we  saw  a  herd  of  wild  horses  ;  the  Span- 
iards pursued  them,  and  caught  two  colts,  one  of  which  the  Indians  killed 
and  ate,  the  other  was  liberated.  We  continued  our  journey  over  some 
hills,  where  the  snow  was  very  deep,  and  encamped  at  last  on  the  top  of  a 
pretty  high  hill,  among  some  pines.  Distance  advanced,  thirty-six  miles. 
We  left  the  river,  which  in  general  ran  about  six,  eight,  and  ten  miles  to  the 
left  or  eastward  of  us.     Saw  great  sign  of  elk. 

Sunday,  ist  March. — We  marched  early,  and  although  we  rode  very 
hard,  only  got  to  the  village  of  Agua  Caliente  or  Warm  Springs,  some- 
time in  the  afternoon,  which  was  about  forty-five  miles.  The  difference 
of  the  climate  was  here  astonishing  ;  afterweleftthe  hills  and  deep  snows,  we 
found  ourselves  on  plains  where  there  was  no  snow,  and  where  vegetation 
was  sprouting.  The  village  of  the  Warm  Springs,  or  Agua  Caliente,  (in 
their  language,)  is  situated  on  the  eastern  branch  of  a  creek  of  that  name; 
and  at  a  distance,  presents  to  the  eye  a  square  enclosure  of  mud  walls,  the 
houses  forming  the  wall.  They  are  flat  on  the  top,  or  with  extremely  little 
ascent  to  one  side,  where  there  are  spouts  to  carry  off  the  water  of  the  melt- 
ing snow  and  rain  when  it  falls,  which,  we  were  informed,  had  not  been  the 
case  but  once  in  two  years,  previously  to  our  entering  the  country.  Inside 
of  the  enclosure  were  the  different  streets,  formed  of  houses  of  the  same 
fashion,  all  of  one  story  ;  the  doors  were  narrow,  the  windows  small,  and 
in  one  or  two  houses  we  observed  talc  lights.  This  village  had  a  mill  near 
it,  on  the  little  creek,  which  made  very  good  flour.  The  population  con- 
sisted of  civilized  Indians,  but  much  mixed  blood,  and  may  comprise  about 
five  hundred  souls.  Here  we  hadadance,  which  in  general  terms  is  called 
the  fandango  ;  but  there  was  one  which  was  copied  from  the  Mexicans, 
and  is  now  danced  in  the  first  societies  of  New  Spain,  and  had  even  been 
introduced  at  the  court  of  Madrid. 

The  greatest  natural  curiosity  are  the  warm  springs,  which  are  two 
in  number,  about  ten  yards  apart,  and  each  affording  sufficient  water  for 
a  mill  seat.  They  appeared  to  be  impregnated  with  copper,  and  were 
more  than  33°  above  blood  heat.  From  this  village  the  letans  drove  off 
two  thousand  horses  at  one  time,  when  at  war  with  the  Spaniards. 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  NEW  SPAIN.  243 

Monday,  2d  March. — We  marched  late,  and  passed  several  little 
mud-walled  villages  and  settlements,  all  of  which  had  round  mud  towers, 
of  the  ancient  shape  and  construction,  to  defend  the  inhabitants  from  the 
intrusions  of  the  savages.  I  was  this  day  shewn  the  ruins  of  several  old 
villages,  which  had  been  taken  and  destroyed  by  the  letans. 

We  were  frequently  stopped  on  our  march  by  the  women,  who  invited 
us  into  their  houses  to  eat,  and  in  every  place  where  we  halted  a  moment, 
there  was  a  contest  who  should  be  our  hosts.  My  poor  lads  who  had 
been  frozen  were  conducted  home  by  old  men,  who  would  cause  their 
daughters  to  dress  their  feet,  provide  their  victuals  and  drink,  and  at  night 
give  them  the  best  bed  in  the  house.  The  whole  of  their  conduct  brought 
to  my  recollection  the  hospitality  of  the  ancient  patriarchs,  and  caused 
me  to  sigh  with  regret  at  the  corruption  of  that  noble  principle  by  the 
polish  of  modern  ages. 

We  descended  the  creek  of  Agua  Caliente  about  twelve  miles,  to 
where  it  joined  the  river  of  Conejos  from  the  west.  This  river  was  about 
thirty  yards  wide,  and  was  settled  for  twelve  miles  above  its  junction  with 
the  Agua  Caliente,  as  the  latter  was  for  its  whole  course  from  the  village 
of  that  name.  From  their  junction,  the  distance  was  about  five  miles  to 
the  Rio  del  Norte,  on  the  eastern  branch  of  which  was  situated  the  village 
of  St.  John's,  which  was  the  residence  of  the  president  priest  of  the  prov- 
ince, who  had  dwelt  there  forty  years. 

The  tops  of  the  houses,  as  well  as  the  streets,  were  crowded  when  we 
entered ;  and  at  the  door  of  the  public  quarters  we  were  met  by  the 
priest.  My  companion,  who  commanded  the  escort,  received  him  in  a 
street  and  embraced  him,  and  all  the  poor  creatures  who  stood  round 
strove  to  kiss  the  ring  or  hand  of  the  holy  Father  ;  for  myself,  I  saluted 
him  in  the  usual  style.  My  men  were  conducted  into  the  quarters,  and  I 
went  to  the  house  of  the  priest,  where  we  were  treated  by  him  with  polite- 
ness :  he  offered  us  coffee,  chocolate,  and  whatever  we  thought  proper,  and 
desired  me  to  make  myself  at  home. 

As  I  was  going  sometime  after  to  the  quarters  of  my  men,  I 
was  addressed  at  the  door  by  a  man  in  broken  English  :  "  My  friend,  I  am 
very  sorry  to  see  you  here  ;  we  are  all  prisoners  in  this  country,  and  can 
never  return  ;  I  have  been  a  prisoner  for  nearly  three  years,  and  cannot 
get  away."     I  replied,  "  that  as  for  his  being  a  prisoner,  it    must  be  for 


244  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

some  crime  ;  that  with  respect  to  myself  I  felt  no  apprehension,  and 
requested  him  to  speak  French,  as  I  hardly  understood  his  English."  He 
then  began  to  demand  of  me  so  many  different  questions  on  the  mode  of 
my  getting  into  the  country,  my  intentions,  &c.,  that  by  the  time  I  arrived 
in  the  room  of  my  men  I  was  perfectly  satisfied  of  his  being  ordered  by 
some  person  to  endeavour  to  obtain  a  confession  or  acknowledgment  of 
sinister  designs  in  my  appearing  on  the  frontiers,  and  some  confidential 
communications  which  might  implicate  me.  As  he  had  been  rather  inso- 
lent in  his  enquiries,  I  ordered  my  men  to  shut  and  fasten  the  door.  I 
then  told  him  that  I  believed  him  to  be  an  emissary  sent  on  purpose  by 
the  Governor,  or  some  other  person,  to  endeavour  to  betray  me ;  that  all 
men  of  that  description  were  scoundrels,  and  should  never  escape  punish- 
ment whilst  I  possessed  the  power  to  chastise  them,  cautioning  him  at  the 
same  time,  if  he  cried  or  made  the  least  resistance,  I  should  be  obliged  to 
make  use  of  the  sabre  which  I  had  in  my  hand  :  on  which  he  was  so  much 
alarmed  that  he  begged  of  me  for  God's  sake  not  to  hurt  him  ;  and  said 
that  he  had  been  ordered  by  the  Governor  to  meet  me,  and  endeavour  to 
trace  out  what  and  who  I  was,  and  what  were  my  designs,  after  gaining 
my  confidence  by  exclaiming  against  the  Spaniards,  and  complaining  of 
the  tyranny  which  they  had  exercised  towards  him.  After  this  confession, 
I  told  him  that  I  looked  upon  him  as  too  contemptible  for  further  notice, 
but  that  he  might  tell  the  Governor  the  next  time  he  employed  emissaries, 
to  choose  those  of  more  abilities  and  sense,  and  that  I  questioned  if  His 
Excellency  would  find  the  sifting  of  us  an  easy  task.  This  man's  name 
was  Baptiste  Lalande  ;  he  had  come  from  the  Illinois  to  the  Pawnees  to 
trade  with  goods  furnished  him  by  William  Morrison,  a  gentleman  of  the 
Illinois,  and  from  thence  with  his  merchandize  to  North  Mexico,  where  he 
had  established  himself ;  he  was  the  man  on  whom  Robinson  had  a  claim. 
He  returned  to  the  priest's  house  with  me,  and  instead  of  making  any 
complaint,  in  reply  to  their  inquiries  of  who  I  was,  &c.,  informed  them 
that  when  he  left  Louisiana  I  was  governor  of  the  Illinois.  This,  I 
presume,  he  took  from  my  having  commanded  for  some  time  at  Kaskas- 
kias,  the  first  military  post  the  United  States  established  in  that  country 
after  the  peace.  The  report  served  but  to  add  to  the  respect  with  which 
my  companions  and  host  treated    me.     This   being   the    first   place    at 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  NEW  SPAIN.  245 

which  I  had  partaken  of  a  good  meal,  wine,  &c.,  the  house  too  being 
warm,  and  having  made  perhaps  rather  an  immoderate  use  of  the  refresh- 
ments, I  was  attacked  by  something  like  the  cholera  morbus,  which 
alarmed  me  considerably,  and  made  me  determine  to  be  more  guarded  in 
future. 

I  found  that  this  Father  was  a  great  naturalist,  or  rather  a  florist.  He 
had  large  collections  of  flowers,  and  plants,  and  several  works  on  his  favour- 
ite studies,  the  margin  and  bottoms  of  which  were  filled  by  his  own  notes 
in  the  Castilian  language.  As  I  had  not  a  natural  turn  for  botany  sufifi- 
cient  to  induce  me  to  puzzle  my  head  with  the  Latin,  and  did  not  under- 
stand the  Castilian,  I  enjoyed  but  little  of  his  pedantic  lectures,  which  he 
continued  to  give  me  for  nearly  two  hours;  but  by  this  small  degree  of 
patience,  I  entirely  acquired  the  esteem  of  the  worthy  Father,  who  called 
me  his  son,  and  lamented  extremely  that  my  fate  had  not  made  me  one  of 
the  Holy  Catholic  Church.* 

St.  John  was  enclosed  with  a  mud  wall,  and  probably  contained  one 
thousand  souls ;  its  population  consisted  principally  of  civilized  Indians, 
and  indeed  all  the  villages  of  North  Mexico  are  the  same,  the  whites  not 
forming  the  one-twentieth  part, 

Tuesday,  3d  March. — We  marched  after  breakfast,  Baptiste  Lalande 
accompanying  us,  and  in  about  six  miles  came  to  a  village  containing,  I 
suppose,  more  than  two  thousand  souls.  Here  we  halted  at  the  house  of 
the  priest,  who,  understanding  that  I  would  not  kiss  his  hand,  did  not  pre- 

*  The  Father  being  informed  that  I  had  some  astronomical  instruments,  expressed 
a  desire  to  see  them  :  all  that  I  had  with  me  was  my  sextant,  and  a  large  glass  which 
magnified  considerably,  calculated  for  the  day  or  night,  the  remainder  being  with  my 
sergeant  and  party.  On  examining  the  sextant,  and  shewing  him  the  effect  of  it,  in 
the  reflection  of  the  sun,  he  appeared  more  surprised,  as  well  as  hundreds  who  sur- 
rounded us,  at  the  circumstance  than  any  nation  of  savages  I  was  ever  among.  It 
struck  me  as  extraordinary,  how  a  man  who  appeared  perfect  master  of  the  ancient 
languages,  a  botanist,  mineralogist  and  chemist,  should  be  so  ignorant  of  the  powers 
of  reflection,  and  the  first  principles  of  mathematics:  but  my  friend  explained  the 
enigma,  by  informing  me  of  the  care  the  Spanish  government  took  to  prevent  any 
branch  of  science  being  made  a  pursuit,  which  would  have  a  tendency  to  extend  the 
views  of  the  subjects  of  the  provinces  to  the  geography  of  their  country,  or  any  other 
subject  which  might  bring  to  view  a  comparison  of  their  local  advantages  and  situa- 
tions with  those  of  other  countries. 


246  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

sent  it  to  me.  The  conduct  and  behaviour  of  a  young  priest  who  came  in, 
was  such  as  in  our  country  would  have  been  amply  sufficient  forever  to 
have  banished  him  from  the  clerical  association,  struttinof  about  with  a  dirk 
in  his  boot,  a  cane  in  his  hand,  whispering  to  one  girl,  chucking  another 
under  the  chin,  and  going  out  with  a  third,  &c.,  yet  this  holy  and  reverend 
father  would  not  give  his  hand  to  a  Protestant,  for  fear  of  contamination! 

From  this  to  another  small  village  of  five  hundred  inhabitants  the 
distance  is  seven  miles  ;  at  each  of  these  there  is  a  small  stream  sufficient 
for  the  purpose  of  watering  their  fields :  at  the  father's  house  we  took 
coffee;  and  here  was  the  first  bedstead  seen  in  the  country.  From  this 
village  we  travelled  seventeen  miles  to  another  of  civilized  Indians,  con- 
taining four  hundred  inhabitants.  Here  we  changed  horses  and  prepared 
for  entering  the  capital,  which  we  came  in  sight  of  in  the  evening.  Santa 
Fe  is  situated  along  the  banks  of  a  small  creek,  which  comes  down  from 
the  mountains,  and  runs  west  to  the  Rio  del  Norte.  The  length  of  the  town 
on  the  creek  may  be  estimated  at  one  mile,  and  it  is  but  three  streets  in  width. 
Its  appearance  from  a  distance,  struck  my  mind  with  the  same  effect  as  a 
fleet  of  flat  bottomed  boats,  such  as  are  seen  in  the  spring  and  fall  seasons 
descending  the  Ohio  river.  There  are  two  churches,  the  magnificence  of 
whose  steeples  forms  a  striking  contrast  to  the  miserable  appearance  of  the 
other  buildings.  On  the  north  side  of  the  town  is  the  square  of  soldiers' 
houses,  one  hundred  and  twenty,  or  one  hundred  and  forty  on  each  flank. 
The  public  square  is  in  the  centre  of  the  town,  on  the  north  side  of  which 
is  situated  the  palace,  as  they  term  it,  or  government  house,  with  the  quar- 
ters for  guards,  &c.,  the  other  is  occupied  by  the  clergy,  and  public  officers. 
In  general,  the  houses  have  a  shed  before  their  front,  some  of  which  have 
a  flooring  of  brick;  this  occasions  the  streets  to  be  very  narrow,  being,  in 
general,  about  twenty-five  feet.  The  supposed  population  is  four  thou- 
sand five  hundred  souls.* 

On  our  entering  the  town,  the  crowd  was  great  and  followed  us  to 
the  government-house:  here  we  dismounted,  and  were  ushered  in  through 
various  rooms,  the  floors  all  covered  with  the  skins  of  buffalo,  bear,  or 
some  other  animal.     We  waited  in  a  chamber  for  some  time  until  His 

*  Humboldt  states  the  population   at  3,600.     Pol.   Ess.  on  N.  Spain,  vol.  ii.  p. 
317.  Eng.   Tran.  E. 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  NEW  SPAIN.  247 

Excellency  appeared,  when  we  rose,  and  the  following  conversation  took 
place  in  French: 

Governor. — Do  you  speak  French? 

Pike. — Yes,  Sir. 

Governor. — You  come  to  reconnoitre  our  country,  do  you? 

Pike. — I  marched  to  reconnoitre  our  own. 

Governor. — In  what  character  are  you? 

Pike. — In  my  proper  character,  an  ofificer  of  the  United  States  army. 

Governor. — And  this  Robinson,  is  he  attached  to  your  party? 

Pike.— No. 

Governor. — Do  you  know  him? 

Pike. — Yes,  he  is  from  St.  Louis.* 

Governor. — How  many  men  have  you?     A.     Fifteen. 

Governor. — And  this  Robinson  makes  sixteen?  A.  I  have  already 
told  your  Excellency  that  he  does  not  belong  to  my  party,  and  shall  answer 
no  more  interrogatories  on  that  subject. 

Governor. — When  did  you  leave  St.  Louis? 

Answer. —  15th  July. 

Governor. — I  think  you  marched  in  June? 

Answer. — No,  Sir, 

Governor. — Well,  return  with  Mr.  Bartholomew  to  his  house,  and 
come  here  again  at  seven  o'clock  and  bring  your  papers.  On  which  we 
returned  to  the  house  of  my  friend  Bartholomew,  who  seemed  much  hurt 
at  the  interview.  At  the  door  of  the  government-house  I  met  the  old 
Frenchman  to  whom  I  had  given  the  scrap  of  paper,  on  the  27th  February, 
He  had  left  us  in  the  morning,  and,  as  I  supposed,  hurried  in  to  make  his 
report,  and  I  presume  had  presented  this  paper  to  His  Excellency.  I 
demanded,  with  a  look  of  contempt,  if  he  had  made  his  report ;  to  which 
he  replied  in  a  humble  tone,  and  began  to  excuse  himself,  but  I  did  not 
wait  to  hear  him. 

*  I  had  understood  the  Doctor  had  been  sent  forty-five  leagues  from  Santa  F6 
under  a  strong  guard,  and  the  haughty  and  unfriendly  reception  of  the  Governor 
induced  me  to  believe  war  must  have  been  declared,  and  that  if  it  were  known  Doctor 
Robinson  accompanied  me,  he  would  be  treated  with  great  severity.  I  was  correct  in 
saying  he  was  not  attached  to  my  party,  for  he  was  only  a  volunteer,  and  could  not 
properly  be  said  to  be  one  of  my  command. 


248  TRAVELS    THROUGH 

At  the  hour  appointed  we  returned,  when  the  Governor  demanded  my 
papers.  I  told  him  I  understood  my  trunk  was  taken  possession  of  by  his 
guard.  He  expressed  surprise,  and  immediately  ordered  it  in  ;  he  also 
sent  for  Solomon  Colly,  formerly  a  sergeant  in  our  army,  and  one  of  the 
unfortunate  company  of  Nolan.  When  we  were  seated  he  ordered  this 
man  to  demand  my  name,  to  which  I  replied  ;  he  then  asked  in  what  prov- 
ince I  was  born?  I  answered  in  English,  and  then  addressed  His  Excellency 
in  French,  and  told  him  I  did  not  think  it  necessary  to  enter  into  such  a 
catechising ;  that  if  he  would  be  at  the  pains  of  reading  my  commission 
from  the  United  States,  and  my  orders  from  my  General,  it  would  be  all 
that  I  presumed  would  be  necessary  to  convince  His  Excellency  that  I  came 
with  no  hostile  intentions  towards  the  Spanish  government ;  that  on  the 
contrary  I  had  express  instructions  to  guard  against  giving  them  offence 
or  alarm,  and  that  His  Excellency  would  be  convinced,  that  myself  and 
party  were  to  be  considered  as  objects  on  which  the  so  much  celebrated 
generosity  of  the  Spanish  nation  might  be  exercised,  rather  than  subjects 
to  occasion  opposite  sentiments.  He  then  requested  to  see  my  commis- 
sion and  orders,  which  I  read  to  him  in  French,  on  which  he  got  up  and 
gave  me  his  hand  (for  the  first  time)  and  said,  that  he  was  happy  to  be 
acquainted  with  me  as  a  man  of  honour  and  a  gentleman;  that  I  might 
retire  in  the  evening,  and  take  my  trunk  with  me  ;  that  on  the  morrow  he 
would  make  further  arrangements. 

Wednesday,  4th  March. — I  was  desired  by  the  Governor  to  bring  up 
my  trunk  in  order  that  he  might  make  some  observations  on  my  route,  &c. 

When  he  had  ordered  me  to  take  my  trunk  with  me  over  night,  I 
had  conceived  the  examination  of  papers  was  over,  and  as  many  of  my 
documents  were  entrusted  to  the  care  of  my  men,  and  I  found  that  the 
inhabitants  were  treating  them  with  liquor,  I  was  fearful  they  would 
become  intoxicated,  and  through  inadvertency  betray  or  discover  the 
papers.  I  therefore  obtained  several  of  them  and  had  put  them  in  the 
trunk.  When  an  officer  arrived  for  myself  and  it  in  the  morning,  I  had 
no  opportunity  of  taking  them  out  again  before  I  was  conducted  to  the 
palace.  I  discovered  instantly  that  I  was  deceived,  but  it  was  too  late  to 
remedy  the  evil. 

After  examining  the  contents  of  my  trunk,  the  Governor  informed 
me  I  must  with  my  troop  go  to  Chihuahua  in  the  Province  of  Biscay, 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  NEW  SPAIN.  249 

to  appear  before  the  commandant  general  ;  he  added,  "  You  have  the 
key  of  your  trunk  in  your  own  possession,  the  trunk  will  be  put  under  charge 
of  the  officer  who  commands  your  escort."  The  following  conversation 
then  took  place  : 

Captain  Pike. — If  we  go  to  Chihuahua  we  must  be  considered  as 
prisoners  of  war  ? 

Governor. — By  no  means. 

Pike. — You  have  already  disarmed  my  men  without  my  knowledge  : 
are  their  arms  to  be  returned,  or  not  ? 

Governor. — They  can  receive  them  any  moment. 

Pike. — But,  Sir,  I  cannot  consent  to  be  lead  three  or  four  hundred 
leagues  out  of  my  route,  without  its  being  by  force  of  arms. 

Governor. — I  know  you  do  not  go  voluntarily,  but  I  will  give  you 
a  certificate  from  under  my  hand,  of  my  having  obliged  you  to  march. 

Pike. — I  will  address  you  a  letter  on  the  subject.* 

Governor. — You  will  dine  with  me  to-day,  and  march  afterwards  to  a 
village  about  six  miles  distant,  escorted  by  Captain  Anthony  D'Almansa, 
with  a  detachment  of  dragoons,  who  will  accompany  you  to  where  the 
remainder  of  your  escort  is  now  waiting  for  you,  under  the  command  of 
the  officer  who  commanded  the  expedition  to  the  Pawnees. 

Pike. — I  would  not  wish  to  be  impertinent  in  my  observations  to  your 
Excellency,  but  pray,  Sir,  do  you  not  think  it  Avas  a  greater  infringement 
of  our  territory  to  send  six  hundred  miles  into  the  Pawnees  country,  than 
for  me,  with  our  small  party,  to  come  on  the  frontiers  of  yours,  with  an 
intent  to  descend  Red  river  ? 

Governor. — I  do  not  understand  you. 

Pike. — No,  Sir  !  any  further  explanation  is  unnecessary. 

I  then  returned  to  the  house  of  my  friend,  Bartholomew,  and  wrote 
my  letter  to  His  Excellency,  which  I  had  not  finished  before  we  were  hur- 
ried to  dinner.  In  the  morning  I  had  received  from  the  Governor  by  the 
hands  of  his  private  secretary,  twenty-one  dollars,  notifying  to  me  that  it 
was  the  amount  of  the  King's  allowance  for  my  party  to  Chihuahua,  and 
that  it  would  be  charged  to  me  on  account  of  my  subsistence:  from  this 
I  clearly  understood  that  it  was  calculated  the  expenses  of  the  party  to 
Chihuahua  were  to  be  defrayed  by  the  United  States.     I  also  received  by 

*  See  Appendix,  No.  XI. 


250  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

the  same  hands,  from  His  Excellency,  a  shirt  and  neckcloth,  with  his  com- 
pliments, wishing  me  to  accept  them  as  they  were  made  in  Spain  by  his 
sister,  and  never  had  been  worn  by  any  person  ;  for  which  I  returned  him 
my  sincere  acknowledgments. 

It  may  not  be  deemed  impertinent,  if  I  explain  at  this  period  the 
miserable  appearance  we  made,  and  the  situation  we  were  in,  with  the 
reasons  for  it.  After  we  left  our  interpreter  and  one  man  on  the  Arkan- 
saw,  we  were  obliged  to  carryall  our  baggage  on  our  backs;  consequently 
that  which  was  the  most  useful  was  preferred  to  the  few  ornamental  articles 
of  dress  we  possessed  The  ammunition  claimed  our  first  care,  tools  sec- 
ondary, leather  leggins,  boots  and  mockinsons  were  the  next  in  considera- 
tion: consequently  I  left  behind  all  my  uniform  clothing,  trunks,  &c.,  and  the 
men  also  did  the  same,  except  what  they  had  on,  conceiving  that  which 
would  secure  the  feet  and  legs  from  the  cold  to  be  preferable  to  any 
other.  Thus,  when  we  presented  ourselves  at  Santa  Fe,  I  was  dressed  in 
a  pair  of  blue  trowsers,  mockinsons,  blanket  coat,  and  a  red  cap,  made  of 
scarlet  cloth,  lined  with  fox  skins  ;  and  my  poor  fellows  in  leggins,  breech 
cloths,  and  leather  coats  ;  and  not  a  hat  in  the  whole  party.  This  appear- 
ance was  extremely  mortifying  to  us  all,  especially  as  soldiers ;  and 
although  some  of  the  officers  used  frequently  to  observe  to  me,  "  that 
worth  made  the  man,"  with  a  variety  of  adages  to  the  same  amount,  yet 
the  first  impression  made  on  the  ignorant  is  hard  to  eradicate ;  and  a 
greater  proof  cannot  be  given  of  the  ignorance  of  the  common  people 
than  their  asking  if  we  lived  in  houses,  or  in  camps  like  the  Indians,  or  if 
we  wore  hats  in  our  country  These  observations  are  sufficient  to  shew 
the  impression  our  savage  appearance  made  among  them. 

The  dinner  at  the  Governor's  was  rather  splendid,  consisting  of  a 
variety  of  dishes,  and  wines  of  the  Southern  Provinces,  and  when  His 
Excellency  was  a  little  warmed  with  the  influence  of  the  cheering  liquor, 
he  became  very  sociable,  and  expressed  his  opinion  freely.  It  must  be 
understood  that  no  person  at  the  table  could  understand  our  conversation. 
He  informed  me  that  there  existed  a  serious  difficulty  between  the  com- 
mandant general  of  the  internal  provinces  and  the  Marquis  Casa  Calva, 
who  had  given  permission  to  Mr.  Dunbar  to  explore  the  Ouchata  con- 
trary to  the  general  principles  of  their  government,  in  consequence  of 
which  the  former  had  made  representations  against  the  latter  to  the  court 
of  Madrid. 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  NEW  SPAIN.  251 

After  dinner  His  Excellency  ordered  up  his  coach,  Captain  D'Almansa, 
Bartholomew  and  myself  entered  with  him  and  drove  out  three  miles. 
He  was  drawn  by  six  mules,  and  attended  by  a  guard  of  cavalry.  When 
we  parted  his  adieu  was.  Remember  Allencaster  in  peace  or  war. 

I  left  a  note  for  my  sergeant,  with  instructions  to  keep  up  good  dis- 
cipline, and  not  be  alarmed  or  discouraged.  As  I  was  about  leaving  the 
public  square,  poor  Colly,  the  American  prisoner,  came  up  with  tears  in 
his  eyes,  and  expressed  his  hope  I  would  not  forget  him  when  I  arrived 
in  the  United  States.  After  we  left  the  Governor,  we  rode  on  about 
three  miles  to  a  defile,  where  we  halted  for  the  troops,  and  I  soon 
found  that  the  old  soldier  who  accompanied  us,  and  commanded  our 
escort,  was  fond  of  a  drop  of  the  cheering  liquor,  as  his  boy  carried  a  bot- 
tle in  his  cochmelies  (a  small  leather  case  attached  to  the  saddle  for  the 
purpose  of  carrying  small  articles).  We  were  accompanied  by  my  friend 
Bartholomew.  We  ascended  a  hill  and  galloped  on  until  about  ten 
o'clock,  snowing  hard  all  the  time,  when  we  came  to  a  precipice,  which  we 
descended,  meeting  with  great  difficulty  from  the  obscurity  of  the  night, 
to  a  small  village,  where  we  put  up  in  the  quarters  of  the  priest,  he  being 
absent. 

After  supper  Captain  D'Almansa  related  to  me,  that  he  had  served  His 
Catholic  Majesty  forty  years  to  arrive  at  the  rank  he  then  held,  which  was 
that  of  first  lieutenant  in  the  line  and  a  captain  by  brevet,  whilst  he  had 
seen  various  young  Europeans  promoted  over  his  head.  After  the  old 
man  had  taken  his  quantum  sujfficit,  and  gone  to  sleep,  Bartholomew  and 
myself  sat  up  for  some  hours;  he  explaining  to  me  their  situation,  and  the 
great  desire  they  felt  for  a  change  of  affairs,  and  an  open  trade  with  the 
United  States.  I  pointed  out  to  him  with  chalk  on  the  floor,  the  geo- 
graphical connection  and  route  from  North  Mexico  and  Louisiana,  and 
finally  gave  him  a  certificate  addressed  to  the  citizens  of  the  United  States, 
stating  his  being  friendly  disposed  and  a  man  of  influence.  This  paper 
he  seemed  to  estimate  as  a  very  valuable  acquisition,  as  he  was  decidedly 
of  opinion  we  should  invade  that  country  the  ensuing  spring,  and  not  all 
my  assurances  to  the  contrary  could  eradicate  that  idea. 

Thursday,  5th  March. — It  snowing  very  badly  in  the  morning,  we 
did  not  march  until  eleven  o'clock.  In  the  meantime,  Bartholomew  and 
myself  paid  a  visit  to  an  old  invalid  Spaniard,  who  received  us  in  the  most 


252  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

hospitable  manner,  giving  us  chocolate  and  other  refreshments.  He  made 
man)'  enquiries  as  to  our  government  and  religion,  and  of  *  *  *  * 
who  did  not  fail  to  give  them  the  brightest  colouring,  he  being  enthusiastic 
in  their  favour,  from  his  many  conversations  with  me,  and  drawing  com- 
parisons with  his  own  country.  What  appeared  most  extraordinary  to  the 
old  veteran  was,  that  we  ever  changed  our  president,  (whose  powers  I  was 
obliged  to  draw  on  a  nearer  affinity  with  those  of  a  monarch  than  they 
really  are,  in  order  that  they  might  comprehend  his  station,)  and  that 
there  was  a  perfect  freedom  of  conscience  permitted  in  our  country.  He 
expressed  his  warm  approbation  of  the  measure.  In  the  priest's  house  in 
which  we  put  up  were  a  couple  of  orphan  girls,  who  were  adopted  by  him 
in  their  infancy,  and  at  this  time  constituted  his  whole  family. 

I  bade  adieu  to  my  friend  Bartholomew,  and  could  not  avoid  shed- 
ding tears ;  he  embraced  me  and  all  my  men. 

We  arrived  at  two  o'clock  at  the  village  of  St.  Domingo,  which  I 
apprehend  to  be  nine  miles  to  the  eastward  of  the  Rio  del  Norte.  Its  pop- 
ulation may  be  about  one  thousand  natives,  generally  governed  by  their 
own  chief.  The  chiefs  of  the  villages  were  distinguished  by  a  cane,  with 
a  silver  head  and  black  tassel.  On  our  arrival  at  the  public  house.  Cap- 
tain D'Almansa  was  waited  on  by  the  Governor,  cap  in  hand,  to  receive 
his  orders  for  furnishing  our  quarters,  and  ourselves  with  wood,  water, 
provisions,  &c.,  for  the  house  itself  contained  nothing  but  bare  walls,  and 
small  grated  windows ;  and  brought  to  my  mind  a  lively  idea  of  the  rep- 
resentation of  the  Spanish  inhabitants,  made  by  Dr.  Moore  in  his  travels 
through  Spain,  Italy,  &c.  This  village,  as  well  as  that  of  St.  Philip  and 
St.  Bartholomew,  are  of  the  nation  of  Keres,  many  of  whom  do  not  yet 
speak  good  Spanish. 

After  we  had  refreshed  ourselves  a  little,  the  Captain  sent  for  the  keys 
of  the  church,  when  we  entered  it.  I  was  much  astonished  to  find, 
inclosed  in  mud  brick  walls,  many  rich  paintings,  and  the  Saint  (Domingo) 
as  large  as  life,  elegantly  ornamented  with  gold  and  silver.  The  Captain 
made  a  slight  inclination  of  the  head,  and  intimated  to  me  that  this  was 
the  patron  of  the  village.  We  then  ascended  into  the  gallery  where  the 
choir  are  generally  placed.  In  an  outside  hall  was  placed  another  image  of 
the  Saint,  less  richly  ornamented,  where  the  populace  repaired  daily,  and 
knelt  to  return  thanks  for  benefactions  received,  or  to  ask  new  favours. 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  NEW  SPAIN.  253 

Many  young  girls  made  choice  of  the  time  of  our  visit  to  be  on  their 
knees  before  the  holy  patron.  From  the  flat  roof  of  the  church,  we  had 
a  delightful  view  of  the  village,  the  Rio  del  Norte  on  the  west,  the  mount- 
ains of  St.  Dies  to  the  south,  and  the  valley  round  the  town,  on  which 
were  numerous  herds  of  goats,  sheep  and  asses  :  upon  the  whole,  this  was 
one  of  the  finest  views  in  New  Mexico. 

Friday,  6th  March. — Marched  down  the  Rio  del  Norte,  on  the  east- 
ern side  ;  snow  one  foot  deep  ;  passed  large  flocks  of  goats.  At  the  vil- 
lage of  St.  Philip  crossed  a  bridge  of  eight  arches,  constructed  as  follows, 
viz.:  the  pillars  made  of  neat  wood  work,  something  similar  to  a  crate,  and 
in  the  form  of  a  keel  boat,  the  sharp  end  (or  bow)  to  the  current ;  this 
crate  or  butment  filled  with  stone,  in  which  the  river  had  lodged  sand, 
clay,  &c.,  until  it  had  become  of  a  tolerably  firm  consistence.  On  the  top 
of  the  pillars  were  laid  pine  logs,  length  ways,  squared  on  two  sides,  and 
being  joined  pretty  close,  made  a  tolerable  bridge  for  horses,  but  would 
not  have  been  very  safe  for  carriages,  as  there  were  no  hand  rails. 

On  our  arrival  at  the  house  of  the  priest,  we  were  received  in  a  very 
polite  and  friendly  manner,  and  before  my  departure  we  seemed  to  have 
been  friends  for  years.  During  our  dinner,  at  which  we  had  a  variety  of 
wines,  we  were  entertained  with,  music,  consisting  of  bass  drums,  French 
horns,  violins  and  cymbals.  We  also  entered  into  a  long  and  candid 
detail  of  the  injustice  done  to  the  Creoles,  wherein  the  Father  neither 
spared  the  government  nor  its  administrators.  Both  as  to  government 
and  religion  he  displayed  a  liberality  of  opinion  and  a  fund  of  knowledge 
which  astonished  me.  He  shewed  me  a  statistical  table,  on  which  he  had 
in  a  regular  manner  taken  the  whole  province  of  New  Mexico  by  villages, 
beginning  at  Taos  on  the  northwest,  and  ending  with  Valencia  on  the 
south  ;  giving  their  latitude,  longitude,  population,  whether  savages  or 
Spaniards,  civilized  or  barbarous,  Christians  or  Pagans ;  numbers,  name  of 
the  nation,  when  converted,  how  governed,  military  force,  clergy,  salary, 
&c.,  &c.,  in  short  a  complete  geographical  and  historical  sketch  of  the 
province.  Of  this  I  wished  to  obtain  a  copy,  but  perceived  that  the  Cap- 
tain was  somewhat  surprised  at  the  Father's  having  shewn  it  me.  When 
we  parted  we  promised  to  write  to  each  other,  which  I  performed  from 
Chihuahua.  Here  was  an  old  Indian  who  was  extremely  inquisitive  to 
know  if  we  were  Spaniards ;  to  which  an  old  gentleman,  who  appeared  to 


254  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

be  an  inmate  of  the  Father's,  replied  in  the  affirmative :  but  the  Indian 
observed,  they  do  not  speak  CastiHan  ?  True,  repHed  the  other,  but  you 
are  an  Indian  of  the  nation  of  Keres,  are  you  not  ?  Yes.  Well,  the 
Utahs  are  Indians  also  ?  Yes.  But  still  you  do  not  understand  them, 
they  speak  a  different  language.  True,  replied  the  Indian.  Well,  said 
the  old  gentleman,  these  strangers  are  likewise  Spaniards,  but  do  not 
speak  the  same  language  with  us.  This  reasoning  seemed  to  satisfy  the 
poor  savage,  and  I  could  not  but  smile  at  the  ingenuity  displayed  to  make 
him  believe  there  was  no  other  nation  of  whites  but  the  Spaniards. 

Whilst  at  dinner,  the  Father  was  informed  one  of  his  parishioners 
was  at  the  point  of  death,  and  wished  his  attendance  to  receive  his  con- 
fession. 

We  took  our  departure,  but  were  shortly  after  overtaken  by  our  friend, 
who  after  giving  me  another  hearty  shake  of  the  hand,  left  us  at  full  speed. 
Crossed  the  river,  and  passed  two  small  hamlets  and  houses  on  the  road, 
to  the  village  of  St.  Dies,  opposite  the  mountain  of  the  same  name,  where 
we  were  received  in  a  house  of  the  Father's,  this  making  part  of  his 
domains. 

Saturday,  7th  March. — Marched  at  nine  o'clock,  through  a  country 
better  cultivated  and  inhabited  than  any  I  had  yet  seen.  Arrived  at  Albu- 
querque, a  village  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  Rio  del  Norte.  We  were 
received  by  Father  Ambrosio  Guerra  in  a  very  flattering  manner,  and  led 
into  his  hall,  from  thence,  after  taking  some  refreshment,  into  an  inner 
apartment,  where  he  ordered  his  adopted  children  of  the  female  sex  to 
appear,  when  they  came  in  by  turns.  They  were  Indians  of  various 
nations — Spanish,  French,  and  finally  two  young  girls  who,  from  their 
complexion,  I  conceived  to  be  English  :  on  perceiving  I  noticed  them,  he 
ordered  the  rest  to  retire,  many  of  whom  were  beautiful,  and  directed  these 
two  to  sit  down  on  the  sofa  beside  me.  Thus  situated,  he  told  me  that 
they  had  been  taken  to  the  east  by  the  letans,  passed  from  one  nation  to 
the  other  until  he  purchased  them,  (at  that  time  infants)  but  they  could 
recollect  neither  names  nor  language.  Concluding  they  were  my  country 
women,  he  ordered  them  to  embrace  me  as  a  mark  of  their  friendship,  to 
which  they  appeared  nothing  loath.  We  then  sat  down  to  dinner,  which 
consisted  of  various  dishes,  excellent  wines,  and  to  crown  all,  we  were 
waited  upon  by  half  a  dozen  of  those  beautiful  girls,  who  like  Hebe  at  ;'  ■ 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  NEW  SPAIN.  255 

feast  of  the  gods,  converted  our  wine  into  nectar,  and  with  their  ambrosial 
breath  shed  incense  on  our  cups.  After  the  cloth  was  removed,  the 
priest  beckoned  to  me  to  follow  him,  and  led  me  into  his  sanctum 
sanctorum,  where  he  had  the  rich  and  majestic  images  of  various  saints, 
and  in  the  midst  the  crucified  Jesus,  crowned  with  thorns,  but  with 
rich  rays  of  golden  glory  surrounding  his  head.  The  room  being  hung 
with  black  silk  curtains,  served  to  augment  the  gloom  and  majesty  of 
the  scene.  When  he  conceived  my  imagination  sufficiently  wrought  up, 
he  put  on  a  black  gown  and  mitre,  kneeled  before  the  cross,  took  hold 
of  my  hand,  and  endeavoured  gently  to  pull  me  down  beside  him  :  on 
my  refusal,  he  prayed  fervently  for  a  few  minutes,  and  then  rose,  laid 
his  hands  on  my  shoulders,  and  as  I  conceived  blessed  me ;  he  then 
said  to  me,  "  You  will  not  be  a  Christian.  Oh,  what  a  pity !  oh,  what 
a  pity  !"  He  then  threw  off  his  robes,  took  me  by  the  hand,  led  me 
out  to  the  company,  smiling ;  but  the  scene  I  had  gone  through,  made 
too  serious  an  impression  on  my  mind  to  be  eradicated,  until  we  took 
our  departure  an  hour  after,  having  received  great  marks  of  favour 
from  the  Father. 

At  Father  Ambrosio's  was  the  only  chart  I  saw  in  the  province  ; 
and  it  gave  the  near  connection  of  the  sources  of  the  Rio  del  Norte, 
and  the  Rio  Colorado  of  California,  with  their  ramifications. 

Both  above  and  below  Albuquerque  the  citizens  were  beginning  to 
open  the  canals,  to  let  in  the  water  of  the  river  to  fertilize  the  plains  and 
fields  which  border  its  banks  on  both  sides  :  we  saw  men,  women,  and 
children  of  all  ages  and  both  sexes,  at  the  joyful  labour,  which  was  to 
crown  with  rich  abundance  their  future  harvest,  and  ensure  them  plenty 
for  the  ensuing  year.  These  scenes  brought  to  my  recollection  the  bright 
descriptions  given  by  Savary,  of  the  opening  of  the  canals  of  Egypt.  The 
cultivation  of  the  fields  was  now  commencing,  and  everything  appeared  to 
give  life  and  gaiety  to  the  surrounding  scenery.  We  crossed  the  Rio  del 
Norte,  a  little  below  the  village  of  Albuquerque,  where  it  was  four  hundred 
yards  wide,  but  not  more  than  three  feet  deep,  and  excellent  fording.  On  our 
arrival  at  the  next  village,  a  dependency  of  Father  Ambrosio's,  we  were 
invited  into  the  house  of  the  commandant.  When  I  entered,  I  saw  a  man 
sitting  by  the  fire,  reading  a  book,  with  blooming  cheeks,  fine  complexion, 
and  a  genius  speaking  eye.      He  arose  from  his  seat;  it  was  Robinson! 


256  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

not  that  Robinson  who  had  left  my  camp  on  the  head  waters  of  the  Rio 
del  Norte,  pale,  emaciated,  with  uncombed  locks  and  beard  of  eight  months' 
growth,  but  with  fire,  unsubdued  enterprise  and  fortitude ;  the  change  was 
indeed  surprising.  I  started  back,  and  exclaimed,  Robinson  !  yes,  but  I 
do  not  know  you,  I  replied  ;  but  I  know  you,  he  exclaimed,  and  I  would 
not  be  unknown  to  you  here,  in  this  land  of  tyranny  and  oppression,  to 
avoid  all  the  pains  they  dare  to  inflict.  Yet,  my  friend,  I  grieve  to  see 
you  here,  and  thus,  for  I  presume  you  are  a  prisoner?  I  replied.  No  !  I 
wear  my  sword  you  see,  and  all  my  men  have  their  arms,  and  the  moment 
they  dare  to  ill-treat  us,  we  will  surprise  their  guards  in  the  night,  carry  off 
some  horses,  and  make  our  way  to  Apaches,  and  then  set  them  at  defi- 
ance. At  this  moment.  Captain  D'Almansa  entered,  and  I  introduced 
Robinson  to  him,  as  my  companion  de  voyage  and  friend.  Having  before 
seen  him  at  Santa  Fe,  he  did  not  appear  much  surprised,  and  received  him 
with  a  significant  smile,  as  much  as  to  say  I  knew  this.  We  then  marched 
out  to  the  place  where  the  soldiers  were  encamped,  not  one  of  whom 
would  recognize  him,  agreeably  to  my  orders,  until  I  gave  them  the  sign ; 
then  it  was  a  joyful  meeting,  as  the  whole  party  was  enthusiastically  fond 
of  him.  He  gave  me  the  following  relation  of  his  adventures  after  he 
left  me  : 

"  I  marched  the  first  day  up  the  branch'  on  which  we  were  situated  (as 
you  know  we  had  concluded  it  would  be  the  most  proper  to  follow  it  to  its 
source,  and  then  cross  the  mountains  west,  when  we  had  conceived  we 
should  find  the  Spanish  settlements).  At  night  I  encamped  on  its  banks  : 
the  second  day  I  left  it  a  little  and  bore  more  south,  and  was  getting  up 
the  side  of  the  mountain,  when  I  discovered  two  Indians,  for  whom  I 
made.  They  were  armed  with  bows  and  arrows,  and  were  extremely 
shy  of  my  approach  ;  but  after  sometime,  confidence  being  somewhat 
restored,  I  signified  a  wish  to  go  to  Santa  Fe,  when  they  pointed  due 
south  down  the  river  on  which  I  had  left  you.  As  I  could  not  believe 
them,  I  reiterated  the  inquiry,  and  received  the  same  reply.  I  then 
concluded  that  we  had  been  deceived,  and  that  you  were  on  the  Rio 
del  Norte,  instead  of  Red  river,  and  was  embarrassed  whether  I  should 
not  immediately  return  and  apprise  you  of  it,  but  concluded  it  to  be 
too  late,  as  I  was  discovered  by  the  Indians.  If  I  had  not  met  them,  or 
some  others,  I  should  have  continued  on  and  crossed  the  mountain  to 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  NEW  SPAIN.  257 

the  waters  of  the  Colorado  and  descended  them,  until  from  their  course 
I  should  have  discovered  my  mistake.  I  therefore  offered  the  Indians 
some  presents  to  conduct  me  in  :  they  agreed,  conducted  me  to  their  camp, 
where  their  women  were,  and  in  five  minutes  we  were  on  our  march.  That 
night  we  encamped  in  the  woods:  I  slept  very  little,  owing  to  my  distrust 
of  my  companions.  The  next  day  at  three  o'clock,  P.  M.  we  arrived  at 
the  village  of  Agua  Caliente,  where  I  was  immediately  taken  into  the 
house  of  the  commandant,  and  expresses  were  despatched  to  Santa  Fe ; 
that  night  I  was  put  to  sleep  on  a  mattress  on  the  floor.  The  next  day 
we  departed  early,  leaving  my  arms  and  baggage  at  the  commandant's,  he 
promising  to  have  them  forwarded  to  me  at  the  city.  On  our  arrival  at 
Santa  Fe,  the  Governor  received  me  with  great  austerity  at  first,  entered 
into  an  examination  of  my  business,  and  took  possession  of  all  my  papers. 
After  all  this  was  explained,  he  ordered  me  to  a  room  where  the  officers 
were  confined  when  under  arrest,  and  commanded  a  non-commissioned 
officer  to  attend  me  when  I  walked  into  the  city,  which  I  had  free  permission 
to  do.  I  was  supplied  with  provision  from  the  Governor's  table,  who  had 
promised  he  would  write  to  Baptiste  Lalande,  whose  circumstances  I  had 
apprised  myself  of,  to  come  down  and  answer  to  the  claim  I  had  against  him. 
The  second  day  the  Governor  sent  for  me,and  informed  me  that  he  had  made 
enquiry  as  to  the  abilities  of  Lalande  to  discharge  the  debt,  and  found  that  he 
possessed  no  property,  but  that  at  some  future  period  he  would  secure  the 
money  for  me.  To  this  I  made  a  spirited  remonstrance,  as  an  infringe- 
ment of  our  treaties,  and  a  protection  of  a  refugee  citizen  of  the  United 
States  against  his  creditors ;  which  had  no  other  effect  than  to  obtain  me 
an  invitation  to  dinner,  and  rather  more  respectful  treatment  than  I  had 
hitherto  received  from  his  excellency.  Being  slightly  afflicted  with  the 
dropsy,  he  requested  my  advice  as  to  his  case.  On  which  I  prescribed  a 
regimen  and  mode  of  treatment,  which  happening  to  differ  from  the  one 
adopted  by  a  monk  and  practising  physician  of  the  place,  brought  on  me 
his  enmity  and  ill-offices.  The  ensuing  day  I  was  ordered  by  the  Governor 
to  hold  myself  in  readiness  to  proceed  to  the  internal  parts  of  the  country : 
to  which  I  agreed,  determining  not  to  attempt  to  leave  the  country  in  a 
clandestine  manner,  unless  they  offered  to  treat  me  with  indignity  or 
hardship,  and  conceiving  it  in  my  power  to  join  you,  on  your  retreat,  or 
find  Red  river  and  descend  it,  should  you  not  be  brought  in,  but  in  that 


258  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

case  to  share  your  destiny :  added  to  this,  I  felt  a  desire  to  see  more  of  the 
countrj%  for  which  purpose  I  was  willing  to  run  the  risk  of  future  conse- 
quences. We  marched  the  ensuing  day,  I  having  been  equipped  by  a 
friend  with  some  small  articles  of  which  I  stood  in  need,  such  as  I  would 
receive  out  of  numerous  offers.  The  fourth  day  I  arrived  at  the  village  of 
St,  Fernandez,  where  I  was  received  and  taken  charge  of  by  Lieutenant 
Don  Faciendo  Malgares,  who  commanded  the  expedition  to  the  Pawnees, 
and  whom  you  will  find  a  gentleman,  a  soldier,  and  one  of  the  most  gallant 
men  you  ever  knew.  With  him  I  could  no  longer  keep  the  disguise,  and 
when  he  informed  me  (two  days  since)  that  you  were  on  the  way  in,  I  con- 
fessed to  him  I  belonged  to  your  party,  and  we  have  been  ever  since 
anticipating  the  pleasures  we  shall  enjoy  in  our  journey  to  Chihuahua,  for 
he  is  to  command  the  escort,  his  dragoons  being  now  encamped  in  the 
field.  Since  I  have  been  with  him  I  have  practiced  physic  in  the  country, 
in  order  to  have  an  opportunity  of  examining  the  manners,  customs,  &c. 
of  the  people,  and  to  endeavour  to  ascertain  their  political  and  religious 
feelings,  with  every  other  species  of  information  which  would  be  necessary 
to  our  country  or  ourselves.  I  am  now  here  on  a  visit  to  this  man's  wife, 
attended  by  a  corporal  of  dragoons  as  a  guard,  who  answered  very  well 
as  a  waiter  and  guide  in  my  excursions  through  the  country,  but  I  will 
immediately  return  with  you  to  Malgares." 

Thus  ended  Robinson's  relation ;  and  I  in  return  recounted  what  had 
occurred  to  the  party  and  myself.  We  agreed  upon  our  future  line  of 
conduct,  and  then  joined  my  old  captain  in  the  house,  who  had  been  per- 
suaded to  tarry  all  night,  provided  it  was  agreeable  to  me,  as  our  host 
wished  Robinson  to  remain  until  next  day.  With  this  proposition  I  com- 
plied, in  order  that  Robinson  and  myself  might  have  a  further  discussion 
before  we  joined  Malgares,  who  I  suspected  would  watch  us  closely.  The 
troops  proceeded  on  to  the  village  of  Tousac  that  evening. 

Sunday,  8th  March. — Marched  after  taking  breakfast,  and  halted  at 
the  little  village  of  Tousac,  three  miles  distant,  situated  on  the  western 
side  of  the  Rio  del  Norte.  The  men  informed  me  that  on  their  arrival 
over  night  they  had  been  all  furnished  with  an  excellent  supper,  and  after 
supper  wine  and  a  violin,  with  an  assemblage  of  the  young  people  to  a  dance. 
When  we  left  this  village,  the  priest  sent  a  cart  down  to  ferry  us  over,  as 
the  river  was  nearly  four  feet  deep.      When  we  approached  the  village  of 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  NEW  SPAIN.  259 

St.  Fernandez,  we  were  met  by  Lieutenant  Malgares,  accompanied  by  two 
or  three  other  officers:  he  received  me  with  the  most  manly  frankness  and 
the  politeness  of  a  man  of  the  world,  yet  my  feelings  were  such  as  almost 
overpowered  me,  and  obliged  me  to  ride  alone  fora  short  period,  in  orderto 
recover  myself.  My  sensations  arose  from  my  knowledge,  that  he  had  now 
been  absent  from  Chihuahua  ten  months,  and  it  had  cost  the  King  of  Spain 
more  than  ten  thousand  dollars  to  do  that  which  a  mere  accident,  and  the 
deception  of  the  Governor,  had  affected.  Malgares,  perceiving  I  did  not  find 
myself  at  ease,  took  every  means  in  his  power  to  banish  my  reserve,  which 
made  it  impossible  on  my  part  not  to  endeavour  to  appear  cheerful.  We  con- 
versed as  well  as  we  could,  and  in  two  hours  were  as  well  acquainted  as 
some  people  would  be  in  the  same  number  of  months.  Malgares  pos- 
sesses none  of  the  haughty  Castilian  pride,  but  much  of  the  urbanity  of  the 
Frenchman;  and  I  will  add  my  feeble  testimony  to  his  loyalty,  by  declaring 
that  he  was  one  of  the  few  officers  or  citizens  whom  I  found  loyal  to  their 
King,  felt  indignation  at  the  degraded  state  of  the  Spanish  monarchy,  and 
deprecated  a  revolution  or  separation  of  Spanish  America  from  the  mother 
country,  unless  France  should  usurp  the  government  of  Spain.  These 
are  the  men  who  possess  the  heads  to  plan,  the  hearts  to  feel,  and 
the  hands  to  carry  this  great  and  important  work  into  execution. 

In  the  afternoon  our  friend  wrote  the  following  notification  to  the 
Alcaldes  of  several  small  villag^es  around  us  :  "  Send  this  eveninor  six  or 
eight  of  your  handsomest  young  girls  to  the  village  of  St.  Fernandez, 
where  I  propose  giving  a  fandango,  for  the  entertainment  of  the  American 
officers  arrived  to-day." 

(Signed)  Don  Faciendo. 

This  order  was  punctually  obeyed,  and  pourtrays  more  clearly  than  a 
chapter  of  observations  the  degraded  state  of  the  common  people.  In  the 
evening,  when  the  company  arrived,  the  ball  began  after  their  usual  man- 
ner, and  there  was  really  a  handsome  display  of  beauty. 

It  will  be  proper  to  mention  here,  that  when  my  small  paper  trunk  was 
brought  in.  Lieutenant  Malgares  struck  his  foot  against  it,  and  said,  "  the 
Governor  informs  me,  this  is  a  prisoner  of  war,  or  that  I  have  charge  of 
it ;  but,  Sir,  only  assure  me  that  you  will  hold  the  papers  therein  contained 
sacred,  I  will  have  nothing  to  do  with  it  "  I  bowed  assent,  and  I  will 
only  add,  that  the  condition  was  scrupulously  adhered  to,  as  I  was  bound 


26o  TRAVELS   THROUGH 

by  every  tie  of  military  and  national  honour,  and  let  me  add  gratitude, 
not  to  abuse  his  high  confidence  in  the  honour  of  a  soldier.  He  further 
added,  "  Dr.  Robinson  being  now  acknowledged  one  of  your  party,  I  shall 
withdraw  his  guard,  and  consider  him  as  under  your  parole  of  honour." 
These  marks  of  politeness  and  friendship  caused  me  to  endeavour  to  evince 
to  my  brother  soldier  that  we  were  capable  of  appreciating  his  honourable 
conduct  towards  us. 

Monday,  9th  March. — The  troops  marched  about  ten  o'clock.  Lieuten- 
ant Malgares  and  myself  accompanied  Captain  D'Almansa  about  three 
miles  back  on  his  route  to  Santa  Fe,  to  the  house  of  a  citizen,  where  we 
dined;  after  which  we  separated.  I  wrote  by  the  Captain  to  the  Governor 
in  French,*  respecting  Robinson.  D'Almansa  presented  me  with  his  cap 
and  whip,  and  gave  me  a  letter  of  recommendation  to  an  ofiicer  at  Chihua- 
hua. We  returned  to  our  old  quarters,  and  being  joined  by  our  escort  com- 
menced our  route.  Passed  a  village  called  St.  Thomas,  one  mile  distant 
from  the  camp.  The  camp  was  formed  in  an  ellipsis,  the  two  long  sides 
presenting  a  breastwork,  composed  of  the  saddles  and  loads  of  the  mules, 
each  end  of  the  ellipsis  having  a  small  opening  to  pass  and  repass  at.  In 
the  centre  was  the  commandant's  tent.  Thus  in  case  of  an  attack  upon 
the  camp  there  were  ready  formed  works  to  fight  from.  Malgares's  mode 
of  living  was  superior  to  anything  we  have  an  idea  of  in  our  army,  having 
eight  mules  loaded  with  his  common  camp  equipage,  wines,  confectionary 
&c.  But  this  only  served  to  evince  the  corruption  of  the  Spanish  dis- 
cipline, for  if  a  subaltern  indulged  himself,  with  such  a  quantity  of  baggage, 
what  would  be  the  cavalade  attending  an  army?  Dr.  Robinson  had 
been  called  over  the  river  to  a  small  village  to  see  a  sick  woman,  and  did 
not  return  that  night.     Distance  advanced,  twelve  miles. 

Tuesday,  loth  March. — Marched  at  eight  o'clock  and  arrived  at  the 
village  of  Sibilleta  ;  having  passed  on  the  way  the  villages  of  Sabinez  and 
Xaxales  on  the  western  side.  Sibilleta  is  situated  on  the  eastern  side,  and 
is  a  regular  square,  appearing  like  a  large  mud  wall  on  the  outside,  the 
doors,  windows,  &c.  facing  the  square,  and  is  the  neatest  and  most 
regular  village  I  have  yet  seen.  It  is  governed  by  a  sergeant,  at  whose 
quarters  I  put  up. 

*See  Appendix,  No.  XII. 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  NEW  SPAIN.  261 

Wednesday,  nth  March. — Marched  at  eleven  o'clock;  came  tweive 
miles  and  encamped,  the  troops  having  preceded  us.  The  village  at  which 
we  passed  the  night  being  the  last  of  the  inhabited  country,  we  now 
entered  the  wilderness,  and  the  road  became  rough,  small  hills  running 
into  the  river  forming  vallies,  but  the  bottoms  appeared  richer  than  those 
to  the  north. 

Thursday,  12th  March. — Marched  at  seven  o'clock,  and  passed  on  the 
western  side  of  the  river  the  mountains  of  Magdalen,  and  the  Black 
Mountains  on  the  east.  Passed  the  encampment  of  the  caravan,  going 
out  with  about  fifteen  thousand  sheep  for  the  other  provinces,  for  which 
they  bring  back  merchandize.  This  expedition  consisted  of  about  three 
hundred  men,  chiefly  citizens,  escorted  by  an  officer  and  thirty-five  or  forty 
troops  ;  they  are  collected  at  Sibilleta,  and  separate  on  their  return  ;  they 
go  out  in  February  and  return  in  March.  A  similar  expedition  goes  out 
in  the  autumn ;  during  the  other  parts  of  the  year  no  citizen  travels  the 
road.  The  couriers  meet  at  the  pass  of  the  Rio  del  Norte  and  exchange 
packets,  when  each  returns  to  his  own  province.  Met  a  caravan  of  fifty 
men  and  probably  two  hundred  horses,  loaded  with  traffic  for  New  Mexico. 
Halted  at  twelve  o'clock  and  marched  at  three.  Lieutenant  Malgares  shewed 
me  the  place  where  he  had  been  in  two  affrays  with  the  Apaches,  in  one  he 
commanded  himself,  and  in  the  other  was  commanded  by  Captain 
D'Almansa ;  in  the  former  there  was  one  Spaniard  killed  and  eight 
wounded,  and  ten  Apaches  made  prisoners ;  in  the  latter  fifty-two 
Apaches  wounded,  and  seventeen  killed,  they  being  surprised  in  the  night. 
Malgares  killed  two  himself,  and  had  two  horses  killed  under  him. 

Friday,  13th  March. — Marched  at  seven  o'clock;  saw  many  deer; 
halted  at  eleven,  and  marched  again  at  four  o'clock.  This  day  one  of  our 
horses  threw  a  young  woman,  and  ran  off  (as  was  the  habit  of  all  the  Span- 
ish horses,  if  by  chance  they  threw  their  rider)  when  many  of  the  dragoons 
and  Malgares  himself  pursued  him.  I  being  mounted  on  an  elegant 
horse  of  Malgares's,  joined  in  the  chase,  and  notwithstanding  their  superior 
horsemanship  overtook  the  horse,  caught  his  bridle  and  stopped  him,  when 
both  the  horses  were  nearly  at  full  speed.  This  act  procured  me  the 
applause  of  the  Spanish  dragoons,  and  it  is  astonishing  how  it  operated 
on  their  good  will. 


-  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

Saturday,  14th  March. — Marched  at  ten  o'clock,  and  halted  at  a 
mountain,  distant  ten  miles.  This  is  the  point  at  which  the  road  leaves 
the  river  for  two  days'  journey,  bearing  due  south,  the  river  taking  a 
turn  southwest,  it  being  five  days'  journey  along  its  course  to  where  the 
roads  again  meet.  We  marched  at  four  o'clock,  and  eight  miles  below 
crossed  the  river  to  the  western  side.  Two  mules  fell  in  the  water,  and  as 
our  stars  would  have  it,  with  the  loads  containing  the  stores  of  Lieu- 
tenant Malgares,  by  which  means  we  lost  all  our  bread,  and  an  excellent 
assortment  of  biscuits,  &c.     Distance  advanced,  eighteen  miles. 

Sunday,  15th  March. — Marched  at  half  past  ten  o'clock;  made 
twenty-eight  miles  ;  the  route  rough  and  stony ;  course  S.  20°  W. 

Monday,  i6th  March. — Marched  at  seven  o'clock,  and  halted  at  twelve ; 
passed  on  the  eastern  side  the  Horse  Mountain,  and  the  Mountain  of  the 
Dead  :  came  on  the  trail  of  the  appearance  of  two  hundred  horses,  sup- 
posed to  be  that  of  an  expedition  from  the  Province  of,  Biscay  against  the 
Lidians. 

Tuesday,  17th  March. — Marched  at  ten  o'clock,  and  at  four  in  the 
afternoon  crossed  the  river  to  the  eastern  side;  saw  several  fresh  Indian 
tracks,  also  the  trail  of  a  large  party  of  horse,  supposed  to  be  Spanish 
troops  in  pursuit  of  the  Indians:  marched  down  the  river  twenty-six 
miles.  Perceived  fresh  sign  of  Indians,  and  of  a  party  of  horse.  Coun- 
try mountainous  on  both  sides  of  the  river. 

Wednesday,  i8th  March. — Marched  down  the  river  twenty-six  miles; 
observed  fresh  sign  of  Indians,  and  of  a  party  of  horse  ;  country  still 
mountainous  on  both  sides  of  the  river. 

Thursday,  19th  March. — Struck  out  eastward  about  three  miles,  and 
fell  into  the  main  road,  (or  a  large  flat  prairie)  which  we  left  at  the 
mountain  of  the  Friar  Christopher. 

Friday,  20th  March. —  Halted  at  ten  o'clock  at  a  salt  lake;  marched 
until  two  o'clock,  when  we  halted  for  the  day.  Vegetation  began  now  to 
be  discoverable ;  on  the  seventeenth  and  this  day  the  weeds  and  grass 
were  quite  high. 

Saturday,  21st  March. —  Marched  in  the  morning  and  arrived  at  the 
Passo  del  Norte  at  eleven  o'clock,  the  road  leading  through  a  hilly  and 
mountainous  country.  We  put  up  at  the  house  of  Don  Francisco  Garcia, 
who  was  a  merchant  and  a  planter ;  he  possessed  in  the  vicinity  of  the 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  NEW  SPAIN.  263 

town  twenty  thousand  sheep,  and  one  thousand  cows.  We  were  received 
in  a  most  hospitable  manner  by  Don  Pedro  Roderique  Rey,  the  lieuten- 
ant governor,  and  Father  Joseph  Prado,  the  vicar  of  the  place.  This  was 
by  far  the  most  flourishing  town  we  had  been  in. 

Sunday,  22d  March. — Remained  at  the  Passo. 

Monday,  23d  March. — Attended  mass.  Left  the  Passo  at  three 
o'clock  for  St.  Eleazaro,  accompanied  by  the  Lieutenant-Governor,  the 
vicar,  and  Allencaster,  a  brother  of  the  Governor.     Malgares,  myself,  and 

the  Doctor  took  up  our  quarters  at  the  house  of  Captain ,  who  was 

then  at  Chihuahua ;  but  his  lady  and  sister  entertained  us  in  a  very  ele- 
gant and  hospitable  manner.  They  began  playing  cards,  and  continued 
until  late  the  third  day.  Malgares,  who  won  considerably,  would  send 
frequently  fifteen  or  twenty  dollars  from  the  table  to  the  lady  of  the  house, 
her  sisters,  and  others,  and  beg  their  acceptance  of  them,  in  order  that 
fortune  might  still  continue  propitious;  in  this  manner  he  distributed  five 
hundred  dollars. 

Round  this  fort  were  a  great  number  of  Apaches,  who  were  on  a 
treaty  with  the  Spaniards :  these  people  appeared  to  be  perfectly  inde- 
pendent in  their  manners,  and  were  the  only  savages  I  saw  in  the  Span- 
ish dominions  whose  spirit  was  not  humbled,  and  whose  neck  was  not  bound 
to  the  yoke  of  their  invaders.  With  these  people  Malgares  was  extremely 
popular,  and  I  believe  he  sought  popularity  with  them,  and  with  all  the 
common  people,  for  there  was  no  man  so  poor  or  so  humble  under  whose 
roof  he  would  not  enter ;  and  when  he  walked  out  I  have  seen  him  put  a 
handful  of  dollars  in  his  pocket,  and  give  them  all  before  he  returned  to 
quarters,  to  the  old  men,  women,  and  children;  but  to  his  equals  he  was 
haughty  and  overbearing.  This  conduct  he  pursued  through  the  whole 
provinces  of  North  Mexico  and  Biscay,  when  at  a  distance  from  the  seat 
of  government.  But  I  could  plainly  perceive  he  was  cautious  of  his  con- 
duct as  he  approached  the  capital.      I  here  left  a  letter  for  my  sergeant. 

Tuesday,  24th  March. — Very  bad  weather. 

Wednesday,  25th  March. — The  troops  marched,  but  Lieutenant  Mal- 
gares and  myself  remained. 

Thursday,  26th  March. — Divine  service  was  performed  in  the  morn- 
ing at  the  garrison,  at  which  all  the  troops  attended  under  arms.  At  one 
part  of  their  mass  they  present  arms ;  at  another,  sink  on  one  knee,  and 


264  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

rest  the  muzzle  of  the  gun  on  the  ground,  in  signification  of  their  sub- 
mission to  their  Divine  Master.  At  one  o'clock  we  bade  adieu  to  our 
friendly  hostess,  who  was  one  of  the  finest  women  I  had  seen  in  New 
Spain.  At  dusk  arrived  at  a  small  pond,  made  by  a  spring  which  arose 
in  the  centre,  called  the  Ojo  Malalka,  and  seemed  formed  by  Providence 
to  enable  the  human  race  to  pass  that  route,  as  it  was  the  only  water 
for  sixty  miles  of  the  road.  Here  we  overtook  Sergeant  Belardie,  with 
the  party  of  dragoons  from  Senora  and  Biscay,  who  had  left  us  at  St. 
Eleazaro,  where  we  had  received  a  new  escort.  Distance  advanced, 
twenty  miles. 

Friday,  27th  March. — Arrived  at  Carracal  at  twelve  o'clock;  distant 
twenty-eight  miles.  The  road  was  well  watered,  and  the  situation  pleasant. 
The  father-in-law  of  our  friend  commanded  six  or  seven  years  here.  When 
we  arrived  at  the  fort,  the  commandant,  Don  Pedro  Rues  Saramende, 
received  Robinson  and  myself  with  a  cold  bow,  and  informed  Malgares 
that  we  might  repair  to  the  public  quarters  :  to  this  Malgares  indignantly 
replied,  that  he  should  accompany  us,  and  turned  to  depart,  when  the  com- 
mandant took  him  by  the  arm,  made  many  apologies  to  him  and  us,  and 
we  at  length  reluctantly  entered  his  quarters.  Here  for  the  first  time  I 
saw  the  Gazette  of  Mexico,  which  gave  rumours  of  Colonel  Burr's  conspira- 
cies, the  movements  of  our  troops,  &c.  &c.;  but  which  were  stated  in  so 
vague  and  undefined  a  manner  as  only  to  excite  our  anxiety,  without 
throwing  any  light  on  the  subject. 

Saturday,  28th  March. — Marched  at  half  past  three  o'clock,  and 
arrived  at  the  warm  springs  at  sun-down  ;  crossed  one  little  fosse  on  the 
route. 

Sunday,  29th  March. — Marched  at  ten  o'clock,  and  continued  our 
route  with  but  a  short  halt  until  sun-down,  when  we  encamped  without 
water.     Distance  advanced,  thirty  miles. 

Monday,  30th  March. — Marched  before  seven  o'clock ;  the  front 
arrived  at  water  at  eleven  o'clock,  the  mules  at  twelve.  The  spring  on  the 
side  of  the  mountain  to  the  eastward  of  the  road  is  in  a  beautiful  situa- 
tion. I  here  saw  the  first  ash  timber  I  observed  in  the  country.  This 
water  is  fifty-two  miles  from  the  warm  springs.  Yesterday  and  to  day 
saw  much  cabrie.  Marched  fifteen  miles  further,  and  encamped  without 
wood  or  water ;  passed  two  other  small  springs  to  the  eastward  of  the 
road. 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  NEW  SPAIN.  265 

Tuesday,  31st  March — Marched  early,  and  arrived  at  a  delightful 
spring  at  ten  o'clock.  The  road  from  Senora,  Tanos  and  Buenaventura, 
&c.  joins  about  four  hundred   yards  before   you  arrive   at   the    spring. 

Arrived  at  the  village  of at  night,  containing  a  large  and  elegant 

house  for  the  country.  Here  were  various  labours  carried  on  by  criminals 
in  irons.  We  here  met  with  a  Catalonian  who  was  but  a  short  time  from 
Spain,  and  whose  dialect  was  such  that  he  could  scarcely  be  understood 
by  Malgares,  and  his  manners  were  much  more  like  those  of  a  citizen  of 
our  western  frontiers  than  a  subject  of  a  despotic  prince. 

Wednesday,  ist  April. — In  the  morning  Malgares  despatched  a  cou- 
rier with  a  letter  to  the  commanding  general,  to  inform  him  of  our 
approach  ;  also  to  his  father-in-law . 

Thursday,  2d  April. — When  we  arrived  at  Chihuahua,  we  pursued 
our  course  through  the  town  to  the  house  of  the  General.  I  was  much 
astonished  to  see  with  what  anxiety  Malgares  anticipated  the  meeting 
with  his  military  chief,  after  having  been  on  the  most  arduous  and  enter- 
prising expedition  ever  undertaken  by  any  of  his  majesty's  ofificers  from 
these  provinces,  and  having  executed  it  with  equal  spirit  and  judgment  ; 
yet  was  he  fearful  of  his  meeting  him  with  an  eye  of  displeasure,  and 
appeared  to  be  much  more  agitated  than  ourselves,  although  we  may  be 
supposed  to  have  had  our  sensations  likewise  ;  as  on  the  will  of  this  man 
depended  our  future  destiny,  at  least  until  our  country  could  interfere  in 
our  behalf.  On  our  arrival  at  the  General's,  we  were  halted  in  the  hall  of 
the  guard,  until  word  was  sent  to  him  of  our  presence,  when  Malgares  was 
first  introduced,  and  remained  with  him  some  time.  During  this  interval, 
a  Frenchman  came  up  and  endeavoured  to  enter  into  conversation  with  us, 
but  was  soon  frowned  into  silence,  as  we  conceived  him  to  be  only  some 
authorized  spy.  Malgares  at  last  came  out  and  asked  me  to  walk  in.  I 
found  the  General  sitting  at  his  desk ;  he  was  a  middle  sized  man,  appar- 
ently about  fifty-five  years  of  age,  with  a  stern  countenance  ;  but  he 
received  me  graciously  and  beckoned  to  a  seat :  he  then  observed,  "  you 
have  given  us  and  yourself  a  great  deal  of  trouble." 

Capt.  Pike. — On  my  part,  entirely  unsought,  and  on  that  of  the  Span- 
ish government  voluntary. 

General. — Where  are  your  papers? 


266  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

Capt.  Pike. — Under  charge  of  Lieutenant  Malgares.  Malgares  was 
then  ordered  to  have  my  small  trunk  brought  in;  which  being  done,  a  Lieu- 
tenant Walker  entered:  he  is  a  native  of  New  Orleans,  his  father  an  English- 
man, his  mother  a  French-woman,  and  he  spoke  both  languages  equally  well, 
also  the  Spanish;  he  was  a  lieutenant  of  dragoons  in  the  Spanish  service, 
and  master  of  the  military  school  at  Chihuahua.  This  young  gentleman 
was  employed  by  Mr.  Andrew  Ellicot,  as  a  deputy  surveyor  in  the  Florida 
line,  between  the  United  States  and  Spain,  in  the  years  1797  and  1798. 

General  Salcedo  desired  him  to  assist  me  in  taking  out  my  papers, 
and  requested  me  to  explain  the  nature  of  each.  Such  as  he  conceived  to 
be  relevant  to  the  expedition  he  caused  to  be  laid  on  one  side,  and  those 
which  were  not  of  a  public  nature  on  the  other;  the  whole  either  passing 
through  the  hands  of  the  General  or  Walker,  except  a  few  letters  from 
Mrs.  Pike.  On  my  taking  up  these  and  saying  they  were  letters  from  a 
lady,  the  General  gave  a  proof,  that  if  the  ancient  Spanish  bravery  had 
degenerated  in  their  nation  generally,  their  gallantry  still  existed,  by  bow- 
ing; I  then  put  them  in  my  pocket.  He  now  informed  me  that  he  would 
examine  the  papers,  but  that  in  the  meanwhile  he  wished  me  to  make,  and 
present  him  a  short  sketch  of  my  voyage,  which  might  probably  be  satisfac- 
tory! This  I  would  have  positively  refused,  had  I  had  an  idea  that  it  was  his 
determination  to  keep  the  papers;  which  I  could  not  at  that  time  conceive 
from  his  urbanity,  and  the  satisfaction  which  he  appeared  to  exhibit  on  the 
event  of  our  interview.  He  then  told  me  that  I  should  take  up  my  quar- 
ters with  Walker,  in  order,  as  he  said,  to  be  better  accommodated  by  hav- 
ing a  person  with  me  who  spoke  the  English  language;  but,  as  I  suspected, 
that  he  might  be  a  spy  on  our  actions,  and  on  those  who  visited  us.  Rob- 
inson all  this  time  had  been  standing  in  the  guard-room  boiling  with  indig- 
nation at  being  so  long  detained  there,  subject  to  the  observations  of  the 
soldiery  and  the  gaping  curiosity  of  the  vulgar.  He  was  now  introduced 
by  some  mistake  of  one  of  <the  aids-de-camp;  when  he  appeared  he 
made  a  slight  bow  to  the  General,  who  demanded  of  Malgares  who  he  was; 
he  replied,  a  doctor  who  accompanied  the  expedition.  "  Let  him  retire," 
and  he  went  out:  the  General  then  invited  me  to  return  and  dine  with  him. 
We  now  went  to  the  quarters  of  Walker,  where  we  received  several  differ- 
ent invitations  to  take  quarters  at  houses  where  we  might  be  better  accom- 
modated; but  understanding  that  the  General  had  designated  our  quarters, 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  NEW  SPAIN.  267 

all  were  silent.  We  returned  to  dine  at  the  palace,  where  we  met  Mal- 
gares,  who,  with  ourselves,  was  the  only  guest.  At  the  table  were  the  treas- 
urer Truxillio  and  a  priest  called  Father  Rocus.  The  dinner  was  mean, 
and  by  no  means  more  splendid  than  many  of  our  subalterns  give  when 
they  have  company,  but  it  was  in  character  with  our  host. 

Friday,  3d  April. — Employed  in  giving  a  sketch  of  our  voyage,  for 
the  General  and  commandant  of  these  provinces.  Introduced  to  Don 
Bernardo  Villamil,  Don  Alberto  Mayner,  Lieut.-Colonel  and  father-in- 
law  to  Malgares,  Don  Manuel  Zuloaga,  a  member  of  the  secretary  office, 
to  whom  I  am  under  obligations  of  gratitude,  and  whom  I  shall  remember 
with  esteem.     Visited  his  house  in  the  evening. 

Saturday,  4th  April. — Visited  the  hospital  where  were  two  fine  look- 
ing men,  who  were  severely  afflicted  with  the  lues  venerea,  and  there  was 
not  a  physician  in  his  majesty's  hospital  who  was  able  to  cure  them,  but 
after  repeated  attempts,  had  given  them  up  to  perish.  This  shews  the 
extreme  impaired  state  of  the  medical  science  in  the  provinces.  I  endeav- 
oured to  get  Robinson  to  undertake  to  cure  these  poor  fellows,  but 
the  jealousy  and  envy  of  the  Spanish  doctors  made  it  impracticable. 

Sunday,  5th  April — Visited  by  Lieutnant  M.  with  a  very  polite  message 
from  His  Excellency,  and  delivered  in  the  most  impressive  terms  of  offers 
of  assistance,  with  money,  &c.,  for  which  I  returned  my  respectful  thanks. 
Accompanied  Malgares  to  the  public  walk,  where  we  found  the  secretary, 
Captain  Villamil.Zuloaga,  and  other  officers  of  distinction.  We  here  likewise 
met  with  the  wife  of  my  friend  Malgares,  to  whom  he  introduced  us.  She 
was  like  all  the  other  ladies  of  New  Spain,  a  little  gross  in  her  form,  but 
possessed  the  national  beauty  of  eye  in  a  superior  degree.  There  was  a 
large  assemblage  of  ladies,  amongst  whom  were  two  of  the  most  celebrated 
in  the  capital.  They  were  the  only  two  ladies  who  had  spirit  sufficient,  and 
whose  husbands  had  generosity  enough  to  allow  them  to  think  themselves 
rational  beings,  to  be  treated  on  an  equality,  to  receive  the  visits  of  their 
friends,  and  give  way  to  the  hospitality  of  their  dispositions,  without 
constraint :  they  were  therefore  the  envy  of  the  ladies,  and  the  subject  of 
scandal  to  prudes.  Their  houses  were  the  rendezvous  of  all  the  fashionable 
male  society ;  and  every  man  who  was  conspicuous  for  science,  arts  or 
arms,  was  sure  to  meet  a  welcome.  We  as  unfortunate  strangers  were  con- 
sequently not  forgotten.     I   returned  with    Malgares   to  the  house  of  his 


268  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

father-in-law,  who  was  originally  from  Cadiz,  a  man  of  good  information, 
and  much  in  favour  of  an  emancipation  of  that  country  from   the   French 

t y,  and  took  every  opportunity  when  his  son-in-law  was  not   present, 

to  converse  with  Robinson  and  myself  on  that  subject,  as  to  the  means  to 
be  pursued  by  Spanish  America,  and  what  probable  assistance  we  would 
give,  &c. 

Monday,  6th  April. — Dined  with  the  General,  In  the  evening  visited 
Malgares  and  the  secretary  :  after  dinner  wine  was  put  on  the  table,  and 
we  were  entertained  with  songs  in  the  French,  Italian,  Spanish,  and  English 
languages.  Accustomed  as  I  was  to  sitting  some  time  after  dinner,  I  for- 
got their  siesta,  or  afternoon  repose,  until  Walker  hinted  the  subject  to  me 
and  we  retired.  Wrote  to  the  General  on  the  subject  of  a  loan-  of 
money.* 

Tuesday,  7th  April. — Dined  at  Don  Antonio  Cabraries  in  company 
with  Villamil,  Zuloaga,  Walker,  &c.  Sent  in  a  sketch  of  my  voyage  to  the 
General ;  spent  the  evening  at  Colonel  Minors'  with  Malgares. 

Wednesday,  8th  April. — Visited  the  treasurer,  who  shewed  me  a  double- 
barrelled  gun  given  him  by  Governor  Claiborne,  and  another,  formerly  the 
property  of  Nolan.    ' 

Thursday,  9th  April. — In  the  evening  was  informed  that  David 
Pharo  was  in  town,  and  wished  to  speak  to  me.  This  man  had  formerly 
been  my  father's  ensign,  and  was  taken  with  Nolan's  party  at  the  time  the 
latter  was  killed.  He  possessed  a  brave  soul,  and  had  borne  every  oppres- 
sion since  his  being  made  prisoner  with  astonishing  fortitude;  although 
his  leaving  the  place  of  his  confinement  (the  village  of  Jeronime)  without 
the  knowledge  of  the  General,  was  in  some  measure  clandestine,  yet  a 
countryman,  an  acquaintance,  and  formerly  a  brother  soldier,  in  a  strange 
land  in  distress,  had  ventured  considerably  to  see  me  ;  could  I  deny  him 
the  interview  from  any  motives  of  delicacy  ?  no,  forbid  it  humanity,  forbid 
it  every  sentiment  of  my  soul !  Our  meeting  was  affecting.  With  tears 
standing  in  his  eyes,  he  informed  me  of  the  particulars  of  their  being  taken 
and  many  other  circumstances  since  their  being  in  the  country.  I  promised 
to  do  all  I  could  for  him,  consistently  with  my  character  and  honour,  and 
with  the  circumstance  of  their  having  entered  the  country  without  the 
authority  of  the  U  nited  States.     As  he  was  obliged  to  leave  the  town  before 

*  See  Appendix,  No.  XIII. 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  NEW  SPAIN.  269 

day,  he  called  on  me  at  my  quarters,  when  I  bade  him  adieu,  and  gave  him 
what  my  purse  afforded,  not  what  my  heart  dictated. 

Friday,  loth  April. —  In  the  evening  at  Colonel  Minors',  Captain 
Roderiquas  arrived  from  the  Province  of  Texas.  He  had  been  under 
arrest  one  year,  for  going  to  Natchetoches  with  the  Marquis  Casabalvo. 

Saturday,  11  ih  April — Rode  out  in  the  coach  with  Malgares ;  was 
hospitably  entertained  at  the  house  of  one  of  the  Vallois  ;  here  we  drank 
London  porter.     Visited  the  Secretary  Vallamil. 

Sunday,  12th  April — Dined  with  the  Doctor  at  Don  Antonio 
Cabraries',  with  our  usual  guests  ;  in  the  evening  at  the  public  walks. 

Monday,  13th  April. — Nothing  extraordinary. 

Tuesday,  14th  April. — Spent  the  forenoon  in  writing,  the  afternoon 
at  Don  Antonio  Cabraries'. 

Wednesday,  15th  April. — Spent  the  evening  at  Colonel  Minors'  with 
our  friend  Malgares ;  wrote  a  letter  to  the  General  on  the  subject  of  my 
papers.* 

Thursday,  1 6th  April. — Spent  the  evening  at  Secretary  Don  Vallamil's, 

Friday,  ijth.  April. — Sent  my  letter  to  His  Excellency;  spent  the 
evening  with  my  friend  Malgares. 

Saturday,  i8th  April. — Spent  the  evening  at  Cabraries',  &c.  Wrote 
to  Governor  Allencaster. 

Sunday,  19th  April. — In  the  evening  at  a  fandango. 

Monday,  20th  April. — We  this  day  learned  that  an  American  ofificer 
had  gone  on  to  the  City  of  Mexico:  this  was  an  enigma  to  us  inexplicable, 
as  we  conceived  that  the  jealousy  of  the  Spanish  government  would  have 
prevented  any  foreign  officer  from  penetrating  the  country  ;  and  what  the 
United  States  could  send  an  authorized  agent  to  the  Vice-royalty  for, 
when  the  Spanish  government  had  at  the  seat  of  our  government  a  charge 
des  affaires  served  but  to  darken  our  conjectures.f  We  likewise  received 
an  account  of  a  commercial  treaty  having  been  entered  into  between  Great 
Britain  and  the  United  States,  which  by  the  Dons  was  only  considered  as 
the  preliminary  step  to  an  alliance  offensive  and  defensive  betwefen  the  two 
nations. 

*See  Appendix,  No.  XIV. 

f  The  person  alluded  to  was  Mr.  Bueling,  a  citizen  of  Mississippi  territory,  whose 
mission  is  now  known  to  the  government. 


270  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

Tuesday,  2ist  April. — Presented  the  commanding  General  with  a 
letter  for  General  Wilkinson,  which  he  promised  to  have  forwarded  to  the 
Governor  of  Texas.* 

Wednesday,  226.  April. — Spent  the  day  in  reading  and  studying  Span- 
ish, the  evening  at  Captain  Vallamil's. 

Thursday,  23d  April. — Dined  at  Don  Pedro  Vallois';  in  the  evening 
with  Colonel  Minors ;  bade  him  adieu  as  he  was  to  march  the  next  day. 
In  the  evening  received  a  letter  from  the  commanding  General,  inform- 
ing me  my  papers  were  to  be  detained,  and  giving  a  certificate  of  their 
numbers,  contents,  &c.,  &c.f 

Friday,  24th  April. — Spent  the  evening  at  *  *  *  *  with  his  relations, 
and  gave  him  a  hint  as  to  the  following  circumstances  :  About  sun-down 
an  officer  of  the  government  called  on  me,  and  told  me  that  the  gov-  > 
ernment  had  been  informed,  that  in  conversation  in  all  societies  Robin- 
son and  myself  had  held  forth  political  maxims  and  principles,  which, 
if  just,  I  must  be  conscious  would,  if  generally  disseminated,  in  a  very 
few  years  be  the  occasion  of  a  revolt  of  those  kingdoms.  That  these 
impressions  had  taken  such  effect,  that  it  was  no  uncommon  thing  in 
the  circles  in  which  we  associated,  to  hear  the  comparative  principle 
of  a  republican  and  monarchical  government  discussed ;  and  even  the 
allegiance  due,  in  case  of  certain  events,  to  the  court  called  in  question ; 
that  various  characters  of  consideration  had  indulged  themselves  in  these 
conversations,  all  of  whom  were  noted,  and  would  be  taken  care  of ;  but 
that  as  it  respected  myself  and  companion,  it  was  the  desire  of  His  Excel- 
lency, that  whilst  in  the  dominions  of  Spain,  we  would  not  hold  any  conver- 
sations whatsoever  either  on  the  subjects  of  religion  or  politics.  I  replied, 
that  it  was  true  I  had  held  various  and  free  conversations  on  the  subjects 
complained  of,  but  only  with  men  high  in  office,  who  might  be  supposed  to 
be  firmly  attached  to  the  king,  and  partial  to  the  government  of  their  coun- 
try :  that  I  had  never  gone  among  the  poor  and  illiterate,  preaching  up 
republicanism  or  a  free  government  ;  that  as  to  the  Catholic  religion,  I 
had  only  tombated  some  of  what  I  had  conceived  to  be  its  illiberal  dogmas ; 
but  that  I  had  spoken  of  it  in  all  instances  as  a  respectable  branch  of  the 
Christian  religion,  which,  as  well  as  all  others,  was  tolerated  in  the  United 

*  See  Appendix,  No.  XV.       f  See  Appendix,  No.  XVI. 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  NEW  SPAIN.  271 

States :  that,  had  I  come  to  that  kingdom  in  a  diplomatic  character,  deli- 
cacy towards  the  government  would  have  sealed  my  lips;  had  I  been  a  pris- 
oner of  war,  personal  safety  might  have  had  the  same  effect,  but  being 
there  in  the  capacity  I  was,  not  voluntarily,  but  by  coercion  of  the  Span- 
ish government,  which  at  the  same  time  had  officially  notified  to  me  that 
they  did  not  consider  me  under  any  restraint  whatever;  I  should,  when 
called  on,  always  give  my  opinion  freely,  either  as  to  politics  or  religion, 
but  at  the  same  time  with  urbanity  and  a  proper  respect  to  the  legitimate 
authorities  of  the  country.  He  replied,  "well,  you  may  then  rest  assured 
your  conduct  will  be  represented  in  no  very  favourable  point  of  view  to 
your  government."  I  answered,  "  to  my  government  I  am  certainly  respon- 
sible, but  to  no  other."  He  then  left  me,  and  I  immediately  waited  on 
some  of  my  friends,  and  notified  them  to  the  threat ;  at  which  they 
appeared  much  alarmed,  and  we  went  immediately  to  consult  *  *  *,  who 
to  great  attachment  to  his  friends  joined  the  most  incorruptible  loyalty 
and  the  confidence  of  the  government.  Our  consultation  ended  in  a  deter- 
mination to  be  silent  and  watch  events. 

Saturday,  25th  April. — At  eleven  o'clock  called  on  His  Excellency, 
but  was  informed  he  was  engaged :  about  three  o'clock  I  received  a  mes- 
sage from  him  by  Lieutenant  Walker,  informing  me  that  he  was  surprised  I 
had  not  returned,  and  requesting  me  to  call  without  ceremony  in  the  even- 
ing, which  I  did,  and  presented  him  with  a  letter  on  the  subject  of  Nolan's 
men,*  He  then  candidly  informed  me  my  party  would  not  join  me  in  the 
territory  of  the  King  of  Spain,  but  that  they  should  be  attended  to  punc- 
tually, and  forwarded  immediately  after  me.  He  requested  that  I  would 
leave  orders  with  my  sergeant  to  deliver  up  all  his  ammunition,  and  dis- 
pose in  some  measure  of  the  horses  of  which  he  had  charge.  I  stated  in 
reply,  that  with  respect  to  the  ammunition,  I  would  give  orders  to  my 
sergeant  to  deliver  (if  demanded)  all  they  possessed,  above  what  was 
necessary  to  fill  their  horns  ;  but  that  as  to  the  horses,  I  considered  their 
loss  to  be  a  charge  which  must  be  adjusted  between  the  two  governments, 
that  therefore  I  should  not  give  any  directions  respecting  them,  except  as 
to  bringing  them  on  as  far  and  as  long  as  they  were  able  to  travel.  He 
then  gave  me  an  invitation  to  dine  with  him  on  the  morrow. 

*See  Appendix,  No.  XVII. 


272  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

Sunday,  26th  April.  Dined  at  the  General's  ; .  in  the  evening  went 
to  Zuloaga's,  and  to  others.  *  *  *  *  took  me  out  from  the  party  and 
addressed  me  :  "  We  are  both  Americans,  are  we  not?  Yes  ;  and  we  will 
yet  see  the  time  when  those  who  tyrannize  over  us  as  they  now  do,  will  be 
on  a  level.  I  hope  so,  my  friend.  Yes,  and  so  do  most  of  the  true  Span- 
iards." This  gentleman  proposed  to  send  one  of  his  sons  to  the  United 
States  with  me  for  education,  and  carried  the  idea  so  far  as  to  ask  permis- 
sion, which  was  positively  refused,  and  he  was  told  that  the  request  was 
considered  heretical  and  disloyal.  Wrote  to  my  sergeant  and  Pharo,  to 
the  latter  of  whom  I  sent  ten  dollars,  and  to  the  other  some  money  to 
purchase  clothes  for  the  party.  We  had  been  for  some  time  suspicious 
that  the  Doctor  was  to  be  detained,  but  this  evening  he  likewise  obtained 
permission  to  pursue  his  voyage  with  me,  which  diffused  general  joy 
throughout  the  party. 

Monday,  27th  April. — Spent  this  day  in  making  arrangements  for  our 
departure. 

*  *  *  had  living  with  him  an  old  negro,  (the  only  one  I  saw  on 
that  side  of  St.  Antonio,)  who  had  been  the  property  of  some  person 
residing  near  Natchez,  and  had  been  taken  with  Nolan.  Having  been 
acquainted  with  him  in  the  Mississippi  country,  he  solicited  and  obtained 
permission  for  Caesar  to  live  with  him.  I  found  him  very  communicative 
and  extremely  useful  the  day  I  arrived  :  when  we  were  left  alone,  he  came 
in,  and  looked  around  at  the  walls  of  the  room,  and  exclaimed,  "What, 
all  gone  ?"  I  demanded  an  explanation,  and  he  informed  me  that  the  maps 
of  the  different  provinces  taken  by  *  *  *,  and  other  surveyors,  had 
been  hung  up  against  the  walls,  but  the  day  we  arrived  they  had  all  been 
taken  down  and  deposited  elsewhere. 

In  the  evening  it  was  notified  to  me  to  be  ready  to  march  the  next  day 
at  three  o'clock. 

Tuesday,  28th  April. — In  the  morning  Malgares  waited  on  us,  and 
informed  us  he  was  to  accompany  us  some  distance  on  the  route.  After 
bidding  adieu  to  all  our  friends,  marched  at  a  quarter  past  three  o'clock, 
and  encamped  at  nine  o'clock  at  night  at  a  spring.  Passed  near  Chihuahua 
a  small  ridge  of  mountains,  and  then  encamped  in  a  hollow.  This  day,  as 
we  were  riding  along,  Malgares  rode  up  to  me  and  informed  me  the  Gen- 
eral   had    given    orders    that    I    should  not  be   permitted  to  make  any 


THE    INTERIOR  OF  NEW  SPAIN.  273 

astronomical  observations.  To  this  I  replied,  he  well  knew  I  never  had 
attempted,  since  in  the  Spanish  dominions,  to  make  any  observations 
whatever. 

Wednesday,  29th  April. — Arrived  at  a  settlement  at  eight  o'clock ; 
plenty  of  milk,  &c.  When  about  to  make  my  journal,  Malgares  changed 
colour,  and  informed  me  his  orders  were,  I  should  not  take  notes.  At 
first  I  felt  considerably  indignant,  and  was  on  the  point  of  refusing  to 
comply,  but  thinking  for  a  moment  of  the  many  politenesses  I  had 
received  from  him,  I  was  induced  to  bow  assent  with  a  smile,  and  we 
proceeded  on  our  route  ;  but  had  not  gone  far  before  I  made  a  pre- 
text to  halt,  established  my  boy  as  a  videt,  and  sat  down  peaceably 
under  a  bush  and  made  my  notes.  This  course  I  pursued  ever  after, 
not  without  a  considerable  degree  of  trouble  to  separate  myself  from 
the  party.  Arrived  at  the  fort  of  St.  Paul  at  eleven  o'clock,  situated 
on  a  small  river  of  the  same  name,  whose  course  is  north-east,  and 
south-west,  at  that  time  not  more  than  a  mill  stream,  but  sometimes  it  is 
three  hundred  yards  wide  and  impassable.  Distance  advanced,  thirty 
miles. 

Thursday,  30th  April. — Marched  at  six  o'clock,  and  at  eleven  arrived 
at  the  River  Conchos,  twenty-four  miles;  beautiful  green  trees  on  its 
banks.  I  was  taken  very  sick  at  half  past  ten  o'clock.  Arrived  at  night 
at  a  small  station  on  the  River  Conchos,  garrisoned  by  a  sergeant  and  ten 
men  from  the  Fort  Conchos,  fifteen  leagues  up  the  river.  Distance 
advanced,  forty-three  miles. 

Friday,  ist  May. — Marched  up  the  Conchos  to  its  confluence  with 
the  River  Florida,  fifteen  leagues  from  whence  we  left  the  former  river 
entirely,  and  took  up  the  latter,  which  bears  from  the  Conchos,  south  80°, 
and  50°  east.  On  its  banks  are  very  flourishing  settlements,  and  the  land 
is  well  timbered.  There  is  a  poor  miserable  village  at  the  confluence. 
Came  ten  miles  up  the  Florida  to  dinner,  and  rested  at  night  at  a  private 
house.  This  property  or  plantation  was  valued  formerly  at  three  hundred 
thousand  dollars,  and  extended  on  the  Florida  from  the  small  place  at 
which  we  slept  on  the  last  of  April  thirty  leagues  up  the  river.  Distance 
advanced,  forty-five  miles. 

Finding  that  a  new  species  of  discipline  had  taken  place,  and  that  the 
suspicions  of  my  friend  M.  were  much  more  acute  than  ever,  I  conceived 


274  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

it  necessary  to  take  some  steps  to  secure  the  notes  I  had  taken,  which  were 
clandestinely  written.  In  the  night  I  arose,  and  after  making  my  men 
charge  all  their  pieces  well,  I  took  my  small  books,  and  made  them  up 
in  small  rolls ;  then  tearing  a  fine  shirt  to  pieces  I  wrapped  it  round  the 
papers  and  put  them  down  in  the  barrels  of  the  guns,  until  we  just  left  room 
for  the  tompions,  which  were  then  carefully  put  in  ;  the  remainde'  we 
secured  about  our  bodies  under  our  shirts.  This  occupied  about  two 
hours,  but  was  effected  without  discovery,  and  without  suspicion. 

Saturday,  2d  May. — Marched  early,  and  In  four  hours  and  a  quarter 
arrived  at  Guaxequillo,  situated  on  the  River  Florida,  where  we  were  to 
exchange  our  friend  Malgares  for  Captain  Barelo.  He  was  a  Mexican  by 
birth,  born  near  the  capital,  and  entered  as  a  cadet  at  Guaxequillo  near 
twenty  years  past,  and  by  his  extraordinary  merits  (being  a  Creole)  had 
been  promoted  to  the  rank  of  captain,  which  was  even  by  himself  consid- 
ered as  his  ultimate  promotion.  He  was  a  gentleman  in  his  manners, 
generous  and  frank,  and  I  believe  a  good  soldier. 

Sunday,  3d  May. — At  Guaxequillo,  the  Captain  gave  up  his  command 
to  Malgares.  At  night  the  officers  gave  a  ball,  at  which  appeared  at  least 
sixty  women,  ten  or  a  dozen  of  whom  were  very  handsome. 

Monday,  4th  May. — Don  Hymen  Guleo  arrived  from  Chihuahua, 
accompanied  by  a  citizen  and  the  friar,  who  had  been  arrested  by  order  of 
the  commandant  general,  on  his  way  to  Mexico  for  trial. 

Ttiesday,  5th  May. — The  party  marched  with  all  the  spare  horses  and 
baggage. 

Wednesday,  6th  May. — Marched  at  five  o  clock ;  ascended  the  river 
four  miles,  when  we  left  it  to  our  right,  and  directed  our  course  south  60° 
east,  for  eight  miles.  Our  friend  Malgares  accompanied  us  a  few  miles, 
after  which  we  bade  an  eternal  adieu,  unless  war  bring  us  together  in  the 
field  of  battle,  opposed  as  the  most  deadly  enemies,  when  our  hearts 
acknowledge  the  greatest  friendship.  Halted  at  ten  o'clock,  and  marched 
again  at  four.  No  water  on  the  road.  Detached  a  Spanish  soldier  in 
search  of  some,  who  did  not  join  us  until  twelve  o'clock  at  night. 
Encamped  on  the  open  prairies  ;  no  wood  or  water  except  what  the  soldier 
brought  us  in  gourds.  The  mules  came  up  at  eleven  o'clock  at  night. 
Distance  advanced,  thirty  miles. 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  NEW  SPAIN.  275 

Thursday,  7th  May. — Marched  very  early  ;  wind  fresh  from  the  south. 
The  punctuality  of  Captain  Barelo  as  to  hours  was  remarkable.  Arrived  at 
half-past  nine  o'clock  at  a  spring,  the  first  water  from  Guaxequillo.  The 
mules  did  not  unload,  but  continued  on  nine  miles  to  a  spring  at  the  foot 
of  a  mountain,  with  warm  and  good  pasturage  round  it.  Mountains  on 
each  side  all  day.     Distance  advanced,  twenty-eight  miles. 

Friday,  8th  May. — Marched  five  miles  due  west,  through  a  gap  in  the 
mountain,  then  turned  south  20°  east,  and  more  south  to  a  river  about 
twenty  feet  wide,  with  high  steep  banks.  It  was  now  dry,  except  in  holes, 
but  sometimes  it  is  full  and  impassable.  Halted  at  seven  o'clock,  and 
sent  on  the  loaded  mules.  Marched  at  five  o'clock ;  proceeded  ten  miles, 
and  encamped  without  water.     Distance  advanced,  eighteen  miles. 

Saturday,  9th  May. — Marched  between  four  and  five  o'clock,  and 
arrived  at  Pelia  at  eight.  This  is  only  a  station  for  a  few  soldiers,  but  is 
surrounded  by  mines.  At  this  place  are  two  large  warm  springs,  strongly 
impregnated,  and  this  is  the  water  used  by  the  party  who  are  stationed 
here.  We  remained  here  all  day.  Captain  Barelo  had  two  beeves  killed 
for  his  and  my  men,  and  charged  nothing  to  either.  He  received  orders 
at  this  place  from  the  General,  to  lead  us  through  the  wilderness  to  Mon- 
telovez,  in  order  that  we  might  not  approximate  to  the  frontiers  of  Mex- 
ico, which  we  should  have  done  by  the  usual  route  of  Paras,  &c. 

Sunday,  loth  May. — Marched  past  one  copper  mine,  now  diligently 
worked.  At  this  place  the  proprietor  had  one  hundred  thousand  sheep, 
cattle,  horses,  &c.  Arrived  at  the  Cadena,  a  house  built  and  occupied  by 
a  priest.  It  is  situated  on  a  small  stream  at  the  pass  of  the  mountains, 
called  by  the  Spaniards  the  Door  of  the  Prison,  from  its  being  surrounded 
by  mountains.  The  proprietor  was  at  Sumbraretta,  six  days'  march  dis- 
tant. This  Hacienda  was  obliged  to  furnish  accommodations  to  all  trav- 
ellers. Marched  at  five  o'clock,  and  passed  the  chain  of  mountains  due 
east  twelve  miles,  and  encamped  without  water.  Distance  advanced, 
thirty-one  miles. 

Monday,  nth  May. — Marched  at  eight  o'clock,  and  arrived  at 
Mauperne,  a  village  situated  at  the  foot  of  mountains  of  minerals,  where 
they  worked  eight  or  nine  mines  ;  but  the  mass  of  the  people  were  naked 
and  starved  wretches.  The  proprietor  of  the  mines  gave  us  an  elegant 
repast.      Here  the  orders  of  Salcedo  were  explained  to  me  by  the  Captain. 


276  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

I  replied,  that  they  excited  my  laughter,  as  there  were  disaffected  persons 
sufficient  to  serve  as  guides,  should  an  army  ever  come  into  the  country. 
We  pursued  our  march  three  miles  further,  to  a  station  where  were  fig 
trees  and  a  fruit  called  by  the  French,  le  grain,  situated  on  a  little  stream 
which  flowed  through  the  gardens,  and  formed  a  terrestrial  Paradise  ;  here 
we  remained  all  day  sleeping  in  the  shade  of  the  fig  trees,  and  at  night 
continued  our  residence  in  the  garden.  We  obliged  the  inhabitants  with 
a  ball.  Several  persons  .expressed  great  anxiety  for  a  relief  from  their 
present  distressed  state,  and  a  change  of  government. 

Tuesday,  12th.  May. — I  was  awakened  in  the  morning  by  the  singing 
of  the  birds  and  the  perfumes  of  the  trees  around.  I  attempted  to  send 
two  of  my  soldiers  to  town,  but  they  were  overtaken  by  a  dragoon,  and 
ordered  back  ;  they  returned,  when  I  again  ordered  them  to  go,  and  if  a 
soldier  attempted  to  stop  them,  to  take  him  off  his  horse,  and  flog  him. 
This  I  did,  conceiving  it  to  be  the  duty  of  the  Captain  to  explain  his  orders 
relative  to  me,  which  he  had  not  done,  and  I  thought  this  would  bring  on 
an  explanation.  They  were  pursued  by  a  dragoon  through  the  town,  who 
rode  after  them,  making  use  of  ill  language.  They  attempted  to  catch 
him,  but  could  not  succeed.  As  I  had  mentioned  my  intentions  of  sending 
my  men  to  town  after  some  stores  to  Captain  Barelo,  and  he  had  not 
made  any  objections,  I  conceived  it  was  acting  with  duplicity  to  send  men 
to  watch  the  motions  of  my  messengers.  I  determined  therefore  they 
should  punish  the  dragoon,  unless  he  had  candour  sufficient  to  explain  the 
reasons  for  his  not  wishing  the  men  to  go  to  the  town,  to  which  I  should 
undoubtedly  have  acquiesced  ;  but  as  he  never  mentioned  the  circumstance, 
I  remained  equally  silent,  and  the  affair  never  interrupted  our  harmony. 

We  marched  at  five  o'clock ;  came  on  fifteen  miles,  and  encamped 
without  water.  One  mile  on  this  side  of  the  little  village  the  road  branches 
out  into  three,  the  right  hand  one  leads  by  Paras,  Saltello,  &c.,  being  the 
main  road  to  Mexico  and  St.  Antonio.  The  centre  which  we  took,  leaves 
all  the  villages  a  little  to  the  right,  passing  only  some  plantations;  the  left 
hand  one  goes  immediately  through  the  mountains  to  Montelovez,  but  is 
dangerous  for  small  parties  on  account  of  the  savages.  This  road  is  called 
the  route  by  the  Bolson  of  Mauperne,  and  was  first  travelled  by  Monsieur 
de  la  Croix  (afterwards  Vice-roy  of  Peru).  In  passing  from  Chihuahua  to 
Texas  by  this  route,  you  make  in  seven  days  what  takes  fifteen  or  twenty 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  NEW  SPAIN. 


7; 


by  the  ordinary  road,  but  it  is  very  scarce  of  water,  and  your  guards  must 
either  be  so  strong  as  to  defy  the  Apaches,  or  calculate  to  escape  them  by 
swiftness ;  for  they  fill  these  mountains,  from  whence  they  continually 
carry  on  a  predatory  war  against  the  Spanish  settlements  and  caravans. 
We  this  day  passed  on  to  the  territories  of  the  Marquis  de  San  Miguel, 
who  owns  the  land  from  the  mountains  of  the  Rio  del  Norte  to  some  dis- 
tance into  the  Kingdom  of  Old  Mexico,  and  his  annual  income  is  immense. 

Wednesday,  13th  May. — Came  on  to  the  River  Nasas  Rancho  de  St. 
Antonio,  part  of  the  Marquis's  estate.  My  boy  and  self  halted  at  the  River 
Nasas  to  water  our  horses,  having  ridden  on  a-head.  We  took  the  bridles 
from  their  mouths,  in  order  to  enable  them  to  drink  freely,  which  they 
cannot  do  with  the  Spanish  bridles  on.  The  one  I  rode  had  been  accus- 
tomed to  be  held  by  his  master  in  a  peculiar  manner  when  bridled,  and 
would  not  let  me  put  it  on  again  for  a  long  time :  in  the  meanwhile  my 
boy's  horse  ran  away,  and  it  was  out  of  our  power  to  catch  him,  but  when 
we  arrived  at  the  station  we  soon  had  out  a  number  of  boys  who  brought 
him  in  with  all  his  different  equipments,  which  were  scattered  on  the  road. 
This  certainly  was  a  strong  proof  of  their  honesty,  and  did  not  go  unre- 
warded. In  the  evening  we  gave  the  inhabitants  a  ball,  according  to  cus- 
tom. We  here  learnt  that  one  peck  of  corn  per  week  was  the  allowance 
given  to  a  grown  person,  with  three  pounds  of  meat.  They  expressed  to 
Robinson  their  anxious  hope  that  the  day  would  ere  long  arrive,  when  the 
earth  would  be  divided  among  their  children,  and  their  sweat  and  toil  no 
longer  be  thrown  away  on  others. 

Thursday,  14th  May. — Did  not  march  until  half  past  four  o'clock,  and 
about  nine  o'clock  an  ofificer  arrived  from  Sta.  Rosa  with  twenty-four  men 
and  two  Apaches  in  irons  ;  they  were  noble  looking  fellows,  of  large  stat- 
ure, and  appeared  by  no  means  cast  down  by  their  misfortunes,  although 
they  knew  their  fate  was  transportation  beyond  the  sea,  never  more  to 
see  their  friends  and  relations.  Knowing  as  I  did  the  cruelty  of  the 
Spaniards  to  these  people,  I  would  have  liberated  them,  had  this  been  in 
my  power.  I  went  near  them  and  gave  them  to  understand  we  were 
friends,  and  conveyed  to  them  some  articles  which  would  be  of  service  to 
them.  This  day  the  thermometer  stood  at  30'  Reaumeur,  and  99°  30' 
Fahrenheit.     The  dust  and  dryness  of  the  road  obliged  us  to  march  in  the 


278  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

night,  when  we  proceeded  fifteen  miles  and  encamped  without  water. 
Indeed  this  road  which  the  General  obliged  us  to  take,  is  almost  impass- 
able at  this  season  for  want  of  water,  whilst  the  other  affords  it  plentifully. 

Friday,  15th  May. — Marched  early  and  came  on  five  miles,  when  we 
arrived  at  a  pit  dug  in  a  hollow,  which  afforded  a  poor  pittance  of  muddy 
water  for  ourselves  and  beasts  ;  and  here  we  were  again  obliged  to  remain 
all  day  in  order  to  travel  in  the  night,  as  our  beasts  could  now  enjoy  the 
benefit  of  water.  Left  this  place  at  half  past  five  o'clock,  and  proceeded 
fifteen  miles  by  eleven  o'clock,  when  we  encamped  without  water  or  food 
for  our  beasts.  Passed  a  miserable  burnt  up  soil.  Distance  advanced, 
twenty  miles. 

Saturday,  i6th  May. — Marched  two  hours,  and  arrived  at  a  miserable 
house,  where  we  drew  water  from  a  well  for  all  the  beasts ;  marched  in 
the  evening  and  made  fifteen  miles  further.  We  had  left  the  right  hand 
road  on  this  side  of  Mauperne,  but  joined  it  about  four  miles  back.  Dis- 
tance advanced,  fifteen  miles. 

Sunday,  17th  May. — Marched,  and  at  about  seven  o'clock  came  in 
sight  of  Paras,  which  we  left  on  the  right,  and  halted  at  the  Hacienda  of 
St.  Lorenzo,  a  short  league  to  the  north  of  Paras.  At  the  Hacienda  of 
St.  Lorenzo  was  a  young  priest  who  was  extremely  anxious  for  a  change 
of  government,  and  came  to  our  beds  and  conversed  for  hours  on  the 
subject. 

Monday,  i8th  May. —  Marched  early,  and  came  through  a  mountain- 
ous tract  of  country,  but  well  watered,  with  houses  situated  here  and  there 
among  the  rocks.  Joined  the  main  road  at  the  Hacienda  of  belong- 
ing to  the  Marquis  de  San  Miguel;  good  gardens  and  fruit,  also  a  small 
stream.  The  mules  did  not  arrive  until  late  at  night,  when  it  had  com- 
menced raining. 

Tuesday,  19th  May. — Did  not  march  until  three  o'clock,  the  Captain 
not  being  very  well.  He  here  determined  to  take  the  main  road,  notwith- 
standing the  orders  of  General  Salcedo.  Proceeded  ten  miles.  Met  an 
Irishman,  a  deserter  from  Captain  Johnston's  company;  he  returned  and 
came  to  the  camp,  begging  of  me  to  take  him  back  to  his  company,  but 
I  would  not  give  him  any  encouragement ;  I  presented  him  with  a  little 
change,  as  he  was  without  a  farthing. 


THE  INTERIOR  OF   NEW  SPAIN.  279 

Wednesday,  20th  May. — Proceeded  to  the  Hacienda  of  Polloss  by  nine 
o  clock.  This  is  a  handsome  place,  and  the  Marquis  de  San  Miguel  fre- 
quently spends  his  summer  at  it,  coming  out  from  Mexico  in  his  coach  in 
ten  days.  Here  we  met  the  Mexican  post  going  to  Chihuahua.  Don 
Hymen,  who  had  left  us  at  Paras,  rejoined  us  here  in  a  coach  and  six,  in  which 
we  came  out  to  a  little  settlement  called  the  Florida,  one  league  from  Pol- 
loss,  due  north.     Distance  advanced,  eighteen  miles. 

The  Hacienda  of  Polloss  is  a  square  inclosure  of  about  t.iree  hundred 
feet,  the  building  being  one  story  high,  but  some  of  the  apartments  are 
very  elegantly  furnished.  In  the  centre  of  the  square  is  a.jei  deau,  which 
casts  forth  water  from  eight  spouts,  extended  from  a  colossal  female  form; 
from  this  fountain  all  the  population  procure  their  supply  of  water.  The 
Marquis  had  likewise  a  very  handsome  church,  which,  with  its  ornaments, 
cost  him  at  least  twenty  thousand  dollars ;  to  officiate  in  this,  he  main- 
tained a  little  stiff  superstitious  priest.  In  the  rear  of  the  palace  (for  so  it 
might  be  called)  was  a  fish-pond,  furnished  with  immense  numbers  of  fine 
fish.  The  population  was  about  two  thousand  souls.  This  was  our 
nearest  point  to  the  City  of  Mexico. 

Thursday,  2 1  st  May. — Marched  down  a  water-course,  over  a  rough  and 
stony  road  about  ten  miles,  when  we  left  it  on  the  right,  and  proceeded 
eight  miles  further  to  a  horse  range  of  the  Marquis,  where  he  had  four  of 
his  soldiers  as  a  guarda  cabello.  Halted  at  half  past  nine  o'clock,  and 
afterwards  pursued  our  journey. 

Friday,  2 2d  May. — Marched  at  three  o'clock,  and  proceeded  sixteen 
miles  to  a  small  shed,  and  in  the  afternoon  to  a  rancho,*  eight  miles 
to  the  left  of  the  main  road,  near  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  where 
was  a  pond  of  water,  but  no  houses  ;  some  of  the  Marquis's  soldiers  were 
here.  We  left  Polloss  Mountains  on  our  right  and  left,  but  here  there  was 
a  cross  one  which  we  were  to  traverse  in  the  morning.  The  Marquis 
maintains  fifteen  hundred  troops,  to  protect  his  vassals  and  property  from 
the  savages.  They  are  all  cavalry,  and  are  as  well  dressed  and  armed  as 
the  king's,  but  are  treated  by  the  latter  as  if  vastly  their  inferiors. 

Saturday,  23d  May. — Marched  early,  and  came  on  to  the  mountain 
to  a  spring.     Distance  advanced,  fifteen  miles. 

*  A  rancho  is  a  solitary  farm.     E. 


28o  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

Sunday,  24th  May. — Marched  at  a  good  hour,  ana  passed  through  the 
mountain,  having  scarcely  any  road  ;  it  is  called  the  Mountain  of  the 
Three  Rivers.  At  the  thirteenth  mile  joined  the  main  road,  left  to  our 
right  on  the  2 2d  instant,  and  in  one  hour  after  the  main  Mexican  road 
from  the  eastern  provinces.  From  thence  we  proceeded  north-west  to  a 
rancho,  nine  miles  from  Montelovez,  from  whence  the  Captain  sent  in  an 
express  to  announce  our  approach. 

Monday,  25th  May. — In  the  afternoon  Lieutenant  Adams,  comman- 
dant of  the  company  of  Montelovez,  arrived  in  a  coach  and  six  to  escort 
us  into  the  town,  where  we  arrived  about  five  o'clock,  P.  M.  In  the  even- 
ing visited  Captain  de  Fereda,  the  commandant  of  the  troops  of  Cog- 
quilla,  inspector  and  captain  of  the  five  internal  provinces.  He  was  a  tall 
thin  man  with  a  very  military  appearance,  and  presenting  an  extraordinary 
instance  of  garrulity  in  a  Spaniard.  Lieutenant  Adams,  who  commanded 
the  place,  was  the  son  of  an  Irish  engineer  in  the  service  of  Spain  ;  he  had 
married  a  rich  girl  of  the  Passo  del  Norte,  and  they  lived  here  in  an 
elegant  style  for  the  country.  We  put  up  at  his  quarters,  and  were  very 
hospitably  entertained. 

Tuesday,  26th  May. — Made  preparations  for  marching  the  next  day. 
I  arose  early  before  any  of  our  people  were  up,  and  walked  nearly  round 
the  town,  and  from  the  hill  took  a  small  survey  with  my  pencil  and  a 
pocket  compass;  which  I  always  carried  with  me.  Returned  and  found 
the  family  at  breakfast,  they  having  sent  three  or  four  of  my  men  to 
search  for  me.  The  Spanish  troops  at  this  place  were  remarkably  polite; 
always  fronting  and  saluting  when  I  passed;  this  I  attributed  to  their  com- 
mandant, Lieutenant  Adams. 

Wednesday,  27th  May. — Marched  at  seven  o'clock,  after  taking  an 
affectionate  leave  of  Don  Hymen,  and  at  half  past  twelve  arrived  at  the 
Hacienda  of   Don  Melcher,  situated  on  the  same  stream  as  Montelovez, 

Don  Melcher  was  a  man  of  very  large  fortune,  polite,  generous  and 
friendly.  He  had  in  his  service  a  man  who  had  deserted  from  Captain 
Lockwood's  first  regiment  of  infantry,  by  the  name  of  Pratt.  From  this 
man  he  had  acquired  a  considerable  portion  of  crude  undigested  information 
relative  to  the  United  States,  and  when  he  met  with  us,  his  thirst  after 
a  knowledge  of  our  laws  and  institutions  appeared  to  be  insatiable  He 
caused  a  fine  large  sheep  to  be  killed  and  given  to  my  men. 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  NEW  SPAIN.  281 

Thursday,  28th  May. — Marched  early  and  arrived  at  Encina  Hacienda 
at  ten  o'clock  ;  this  place  was  owned  by  Don  Barigo.  When  we  arrived 
at  the  Hacienda  of  Encina,  I  found  a  youth  of  eighteen  sitting  in  the 
house  genteely  dressed,  whom  I  immediately  recognized  from  his  physiog- 
nomy to  be  an  American,  and  entered  into  conversation  with  him.  He 
expressed  great  satisfaction  at  meeting  a  countryman,  and  we  had  a  great 
deal  of  conversation.  He  sat  at  a  table  with  us,  and  partook  of  a  cold 
collation  prepared  of  fruits  and  confectionary,  but  I  was  much  surprised  to 
learn  shortly  after  we  quitted  the  table,  that  he  was  a  deserter  from  our 
army.  On  which  I  questioned  him,  and  he  replied,  that  his  name  was 
Griffith  ;  that  he  had  enlisted  in  Philadelphia,  arrived  at  New  Orleans,  and 
deserted  as  soon  as  possible  ;  that  the  Spaniards  had  treated  him  much 
better  than  his  own  countrymen,  and  that  he  should  never  return.  I  was 
extremely  surprised  at  his  insolence,  and  mortified  that  I  should  have  been 
betrayed  into  any  polite  conduct  towards  him.  I  told  him  it  was  aston- 
ishing he  should  have  the  impertinence  to  address  himself  to  me,  knowing 
I  was  an  American  officer.  He  muttered  something  about  being  in  a 
country  where  he  was  protected,  &c.;  on  which  I  told  him  if  he  again 
opened  his  mouth  to  me  I  would  instantly  chastise  him,  notwithstanding 
his  supposed  protection.  He  Weis  silent,  and  I  called  up  one  of  my  sol- 
diers and  told  him  in  his  hearing,  that  if  he  attempted  to  mix  with  them, 
to  turn  him  out  of  company,  which  they  executed  by  leading  him  to  the 
door  of  their  room  a  short  time  after,  when  he  was  about  to  enter  it. 

When  dinner  was  nearly  ready  I  sent  a  message  to  the  proprietor, 
stating,  that  we  assumed  no  right  to  say  whom  he  should  introduce  to  his 
table,  but  that  we  should  think  it  a  great  indignity  offered  to  a  Spanish 
officer  to  attempt  to  set  him  down  at  the  same  board  with  a  deserter 
from  their  army  ;  and  that  if  the  man  who  was  at  the  table  in  the  morn- 
ing was  to  make  his  appearance  again,  we  should  decline  eating  in  his 
company.  He  replied  that  it  was  accident  which  produced  the  incident  of 
the  morning ;  that  he  was  sorry  our  feelings  had  been  offended,  and  that 
he  would  take  care  he  did  not  appear  again  whilst  we  were  there. 

This  day  was  the  feast  of  God  ;  we  of  course  staid  to  partake  of  it, 
but  as  it  has  been  frequently  described  by  travellers  in  Catholic  countries, 
I  shall  not  add  to  the  many  repetitions  of  this  class. 


282  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

This  day  we  passed  the  last  mountains,  and  again  entered  the  great 
Mississippi  Valley,  it  being  six  months  and  thirteen  days  since  we  had  first 
come  in  sight  of  them.     Distance  advanced,  twenty  miles. 

Friday,  29th  May. — Marched  at  seven  o'clock,  and  came  to  the 
River  Millada  to  a  rancho. 

Saturday,  30th  May. — Marched  at  five  o'clock,  and  arrived  at  the 
River  Sabine  at  eight ;  forded  it :  marched  in  the  evening  at  four 
o'clock,  and  at  ten  encamped  at  the  second  ridge  without  water. 
Distance  advanced,  twenty-seven  miles. 

Sunday,  31st  May. — Marched  early,  and  at  nine  o'clock  arrived 
at  a  rancho  and  fine  running  water,  course  east  and  west.  Marched 
eight  miles  further  to  a  point  of  woods  and  encamped.  No  water.  Dis- 
tance advanced,  twenty-seven  miles. 

Monday,  ist  June. — Arrived  at  the  Presidio  Rio  Grande  at  eight 
o'clock.  This  place  was  the  position  to  which  our  friend  Barelo  was 
ordered,  and  which  had  been  very  highly  spoken  of  to  him  ;  but  he  found 
himself  miserably  mistaken,  for  it  was  with  the  greatest  difficulty  we 
obtained  anything  to  eat,  which  mortified  him  extremely. 

When  at  Chihuahua,  General  Salcedo  had  asked  me  if  I  had  not  lost 
a  man  by  desertion,  to  which  I  replied  in  the  negative.  He  then  informed 
me  that  an  American  had  arrived  at  the  Presidio  of  Rio  Grande  in  the 
last  year ;  that  he  had  at  first  confined  him,  but  that  he  was  now  released 
and  practising  physic,  and  that  he  wished  me  to  examine  him  on  my 
arrival ;  I  therefore  had  him  sent  for.  The  moment  he  entered  the  room  I 
discovered  he  had  never  received  a  liberal  education,  or  been  accustomed 
to  polished  society.  I  told  him  the  reason  I  had  requested  to  see  him 
was,  that  I  had  it  in  my  power  to  serve  him,  if  I  found  him  a  character 
worthy  of  interference.  He  then  related  the  following  story:  His  name 
was  Martin  Henderson  ;  he  was  born  in  Rockbridge  county,  state  of  Vir- 
ginia ;  had  been  brought  up  a  farmer,  but,  coming  early  to  the  states  of 
Kentucky  and  Tennessee,  he  had  acquired  the  taste  for  a  frontier  life,  and 
in  the  spring  of  1806,  himself  and  four  companions  had  left  the  saline  in 
the  district  of  Saint  Genevieve,  Upper  Louisiana,  in  order  to  penetrate 
through  the  woods  to  the  Province  of  Texas ;  his  companions  had  left  him 
on  the  White  river,  but  he  had  continued  on.  In  swimming  some  western 
branch  his  horse  sunk  under  him,  and  it  was  with  difficulty  he  made  the 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  NEW  SPAIN.  283 

shore  with  his  gun.  Here  he  waited  three  or  four  days  until  his  horse  rose, 
and  he  then  got  his  saddlebags,  but  all  his  notes  on  the  country,  courses, 
&c.  were  destroyed.  He  then  proceeded  on  foot  for  a  few  days,  when  he 
was  met  by  thirty  or  forty  Osage  warriors,  who,  on  his  telling  them  he  was 
going  to  the  Spaniards,  were  proceeding  to  kill  him,  but  on  his  saying  he 
would  go  to  the  Americans,  they  held  a  consultation  over  him ;  and  after- 
wards seized  on  his  clothes,  and  divided  them  between  them ;  then  his 
pistols,  dirk,  compass,  and  watch,  which  they  took  to  pieces  and  hung  on 
their  noses  and  ears.  They  then  stripped  him  naked,  and  round  his  body 
they  found  a  belt  with  gold  pieces  sewed  in  it ;  this  they  also  took,  and 
finally  seized  on  his  gun  and  ammunition.  As  they  were  marching  off  to 
leave  him  in  this  condition,  he  followed  them,  thinking  it  better  to  be 
killed,  than  be  left  in  such  a  state  to  die  of  hunger  and  cold  The  savages 
after  some  time  halted,  and  one  pulled  off  an  old  pair  of  leggings,  and 
gave  him,  others  mockinsons,  and  a  third  a  buffalo  robe,  and  the  one  who 
had  carried  his  heavy  rifle,  had  by  this  time  become  tired  of  his  prize  (they 
never  using  rifles).  They  counted  him  out  twenty-five  charges  of  powder 
and  ball,  then  sent  two  Indians  with  him,  who  put  him  on  a  war  trace,  which 
they  said  led  to  American  establishments.  As  soon  as  the  Indians  left 
him  he  directed  his  course,  as  he  supposed,  for  Saint  Antonio  :  he  killed 
deer  and  made  himself  some  clothes.  He  proceeded  on  and  expended  all" 
his  ammunition  three  days  before  he  struck  the  grand  road,  nearly  at  the 
Rio  Grande.  He  further  stated,  that  he  had  discovered  two  mines,  one  of 
silver  and  the  other  of  gold,  the  situation  of  which  he  particularly 
described  ;  but  that  the  General  had  taken  the  samples  from  him.  He  said 
he  would  not  attempt  to  pass  himself  upon  us  for  a  physician,  and  hoped 
as  he  only  used  simples,  and  was  careful  to  do  no  harm,  we  would  not 
betray  him.  He  concluded  by  saying  since  his  being  here  he  had  made 
(from  information)  maps  of  all  the  adjacent  country,  which  had  been 
taken  from  him. 

I  had  begun  strongly  to  suspect  that  he  was  an  agent  of  Burr's,  and 
was  revolving  in  my  mind  whether  I  should  denounce  him  as  such  to  the 
commandant,  but  felt  reluctant  from  an  apprehension  that  he  might  be 
innocent,  when  one  of  my  men  came  in  and  informed  me,  that  he  was 
Trainer,  who  had  killed  Major  Bashier  in  the  wilderness  between  Natchez 
and  Tennessee,  when  he  was     his  servant.      He  had  shot  him  through 


284  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

the  head  with  his  own  pistols  while  taking  a  nap  at  noon.  The  Gov- 
ernor of  the  State  and  the  major's  friends  offered  a  very  considerable 
reward  for  his  apprehension,  which  obliged  him  to  quit  the  neighbour- 
hood ;  and  with  an  Amazonian  woman,  who  handled  arms  and  hunted 
like  a  savage,  he  retreated  to  the  source  of  the  White  river,  but  being 
routed  thence  by  Captain  Many,  of  the  United  States  army,  and  a  party 
of  Cherokees,  he  and  his  female  companion  bore  west.  She  proving  to 
be  pregnant,  was  left  by  him  in  the  desert,  and  (I  was  informed)  arrived 
at  the  settlement  of  Red  river,  but  by  what  means  is  to  me  unknown. 
The  articles  and  money  taken  from  him  by  the  Osages  were  the  prop- 
erty of  the  deceased  major. 

I  reported  the  circumstance  to  Captain  Barelo,  who  had  him  immedi- 
ately confined,  until  the  will  of  Governor  Cordero  was  known,  who 
informed  me,  when  at  St.  Antonio,  he  would  have  him  sent  to  some  place 
of  perpetual  confinement  in  the  interior.  Thus  vengeance  has  overtaken 
the  ingrate  and  homicide,  when  he  least  expected  it. 

In  the  evening  we  went  to  see  some  dancers  on  the  slack  rope,  who 
were  nowise  extraordinary  in  their  performances  except  in  language, 
which  would  almost  bring  a  blush  on  the  cheek  of  the  most  abandoned 
of  the  female  sex  in  the  United  States;  but  here  appeared  to  be  the 
greatest  part  of  the  entertainment,  as  every  sally  was  attended  with  loud 
and  repeated  bursts  of  laughter  from  the  female  part  of  the  audience. 

Tuesday,  2d  June. — In  the  day  time,  while  I  was  endeavouring  to  reg- 
ulate our  watches  by  my  compass,  the  instant  my  back  was  turned,  some 
person  stole  it,  and  I  could  by  no  means  recover  it.  I  had  strong  sus- 
picions that  the  theft  was  approved,  as  the  instrument  occasioned  great 
dissatisfaction.  This  day  the  Captain  went  out  to  dine  with  some  monks, 
who  would  have  thought  it  profanation  to  have  us  for  their  guests,  not- 
withstanding the  priest  of  the  place  had  escorted  us  round  the  town,  and 
to  all  their  missions ;  and  we  had  found  him  a  very  communicative,  lib- 
eral, and  intelligent  man.  We  saw  no  resource  for  dinner,  but  in  the 
inventive  genius  of  the  little  Frenchman,  who  had  accompanied  us  from 
Chihuahua,  where  he  had  been  officiating  one  year  as  cook  to  the  General, 
and  of  whom  he  gave  us  many  interesting  anecdotes.  He  went  off,  and 
in  a  very  short  time  returned  with  table-cloth,  plates,  and  a  dinner  of 
three  or  four  courses,  a  bottle  of  wine,  and  a  pretty  girl  to   wait  at  table. 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  NEW  SPAIN.  285 

We  enquired  by  what  magic  he  had  brought  this  about,  and  found  that 
he  had  gone  to  one  of  the  officers,  and  notified,  that  it  was  the  wish  of 
the  Commandant  he  should  supply  the  two  Americans  with  a  decent  din- 
ner, (this  we  explained  to  Barelo  in  the  evening,  and  he  laughed  heartily,) 
which  was  done,  but  we  took  care  to  compensate  them  for  their  trouble. 
At  five  o'clock  we  parted  from  the  captains  with  regret  and  assurances 
of  remembrances,  and  proceeded,  escorted  by  an  ensign  and  guard  :  came 
to  the  Rio  Grande,  which  we  passed,  and  encamped  at  a  rancho  on  the 
other  side.      Distance  advanced,  seven  miles. 

Wednesday,  3d  June. — The  mosquettoes,  which  had  commenced  the 
first  night  on  this  side  Montelovez,  had  now  become  very  troublesome. 
This  day  saw  the  first  horse-flies,  and  some  wild  horses.  Proceeded  to 
the  open  plain,  where  there  was  no  water.  Distance  advanced,  thirty 
miles. 

Thursday,  4th  June. — Came  on  sixteen  miles  to  a  pond  and  dined  : 
ereat  sign  of  wild  horses  in  the  afternoon.  Proceeded  to  a  river.  Dis- 
tance  advanced,  thirty-six  miles. 

Friday,  5th  June. — After  losing  two  horses  in  ferrying,  we  crossed 
and  continued  our  route.  Passed  two  herds  of  wild  horses,  which  merely 
left  the  road  for  us.  Halted  at  a  pond,  on  the  left  of  the  road  fifteen 
miles  on,  where  we  saw  the  first  oak  since  we  entered  Mexico,  and  this 
was  of  the  scrub  kind.  Passed  many  deer  yesterday  and  to-day.  Came 
to  a  small  creek  at  night,  where  we  met  a  party  of  the  company  of  St. 
Fernandez,  returning  from  the  line.  Distance  advanced,  thirty-one 
miles. 

Saturday,  6th  June.  — Marched  early,  and  met  several  parties  of  troops 
returning  from  Texas,  where  they  had  been  sent  to  reinforce,  when  our 
troops  were  near  the  line.  Observed  immense  numbers  of  cross  roads 
made  by  the  wild  horses.  Killed  a  wild  hog,  which  on  examination  I 
found  to  be  very  different  from  the  tame  breed,  being  smaller,  of  a  brown 
colour,  long  hair,  and  short  legs  ;  they  are  to  be  found  in  all  parts  between 
Red  river  and  the  Spanish  settlements.  Passed  an  encampment  made  by 
the  Lee  Panis.  Met  one  of  that  nation  with  his  wife.  In  the  afternoon 
struck  the  wood  land,  which  was  the  first  we  had  been  in  from  the  time 
we  had  left  the  Osage  nation.     Distance  advanced,  thirty-nine  miles. 


286  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

Sunday,  'jth.June. — Came  on  fifteen  miles  to  the  River  Mariana,  the 
line  between  Texas  and  Bogquilla,  a  pretty  little  stream  ;  from  thence  in 
the  afternoon  to  St.  Antonio.  We  halted  at  the  mission  of  St.  Joseph, 
and  were  received  in  a  friendly  manner  by  the  priest  of  the  mission  and 
others.  We  were  met  out  of  the  town  about  three  miles  by  Governors 
Cordero  and  Herrara,  in  a  coach.  We  repaired  to  their  quarters,  where 
we  were  received  like  their  children.  Cordero  informed  me  that  he  had 
discretionary  orders  as  to  the  manner  of  my  going  out  of  the  country  : 
that  he  therefore  wished  me  to  chose  my  time,  mode,  &c.,  and  that  any 
sum  of  money  I  might  want  was  at  my  service ;  that  in  the  mean  time 
Robinson  and  myself  would  make  his  quarters  our  residence  ;  and  that  he 
had  caused  to  be  vacated  a  house  immediately  opposite  for  my  men.  In 
the  evening  his  levee  was  attended  by  a  crowd  of  officers  and  priests. 
After  supper  we  went  to  the  public  square,  where  might  be  seen  the  two 
governors  joined  in  a  dance  with  people  who  in  the  day  time  would 
approach  them  with  reverence  and  awe.  We  were  here  introduced  to  the 
sister  of  Lieutenant  Malgares's  wife,  who  was  one  of  the  finest  women 
we  saw,  and  was  married  to  a  Captain  Ugarte,  to  whom  we  had  letters  of 
introduction. 

Monday,  2ith.  June. — Remained  at  St.  Antonio. 

Tuesday,  c)l]\June. — A  large  party  dined  at  the  Governor  Cordero's, 
who  gave  as  his  first  toast.  The  President  of  the  United  States.  I  returned 
the  compliment  by  toasting.  His  Catholic  Majesty:  these  were  followed  by 
General  Wilkinson,  and  one  of  the  company  then  gave.  These  Gentle- 
men, their  safe  and  happy  arrival  in  their  own  country,  their  honourable 
reception,  and  the  continuation  of  the  good  understanding  which  exists 
between  the  two  countries. 

Wednesday,  loth.  June.  —  A  large  party  at  the  Governor's  to  dinner; 
he  gave  as  a  toast  his  companion  Herrara. 

Thursday,  nth.  June. — Preparing  to  march  to-morrow.  We  this 
evening  had  a  conversation  with  the  two  Governors,  wherein  they  exhib- 
ited an  astonishing  knowledge  of  the  political  character  of  our  executive  ; 
the  local  interests  of  the  different  parts  of  the  union,  and  the  military  dis- 
position of  General  Wilkinson  ;  and  concluded  with  a  high  coloured  pic- 
ture of  *  *  *  *,  to  whose  querulous  disposition  they  attributed  the  late 
disputes  between  the  two  governments  on  the  frontiers.     As   I   did  not 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  NEW  SPAIN.  287 

know  that  gentleman,  I  could  only  reply  generally,  that  I  thought  it  impos- 
sible an  agent  of  our  government,  standing  in  the  situation  of  the 
*  *  *  *^  would  dare  to  blow  up  the  flames  of  hostility  between  the  two 
countries,  knowing  as  he  must  the  general  disposition  which  the  United 
States  has  always  exhibited  to  pacific  measures. 

Friday,  12th.  June. — One  of  the  captains  from  the  kingdom  of  Leon 
having  died,  we  were  invited  to  attend  the  burial :  accompanied  the  two 
Generals  in  their  coach,  where  we  had  an  opportunity  of  viewing  the 
solemnity  of  the  interment,  agreeably  to  the  ritual  of  the  Spanish  church, 
attended  with  the  military  honours,  which  were  conferred  on  the  deceased 
by  his  late  brethren  in  arms.  Governor  Cordero  gave  the  information  of 
my  intended  expedition  to  the  Commandant  General  as  early  as  July,  the 
month  I  took  my  departure  ;  he  had  received  his  intelligence  via  Natchez. 

Saturday,  13th  June. — This  morning  there  were  marched  two  hun- 
dred dragoons  for  the  sea-coast  to  look  out  for  the  English,  and  that 
evening  Colonel  Cordero  was  to  have  proceeded  to  join  them.  We 
marched  at  seven  o'clock.  Governor  Cordero  taking  us  out  in  his  coach 
about  two  leagues,  accompanied  by  Father  M'Guire,  Dr.  Zerbon,  &c. 
It  may  not  be  improper  to  mention  here  something  of  the  two  latter  gen- 
tlemen, who  certainly  treated  us  with  all  imaginable  attention  while  at  St. 
Antonio.  The  former  was  an  Irish  priest,  who  formerly  resided  on  the 
coast  above  Orleans,  and  was  noted  for  his  hospitality  and  social  qualities. 
On  the  cession  of  Louisiana,  he  followed  the  standard  of  the  "  king  his 
master,"  who  never  suffers  an  old  servant  to  be  neglected.  He  received  at 
Cuba  an  establishment,  as  chaplain  of  the  mint  at  Mexico,  from  whence  the 
instability  of  human  affairs  carried  him  to  St.  Antonio.  He  was  a  man  of 
chaste  classical  taste,  observation,  and  research.  Dr.  Zerbon  formerly 
resided  at  Natchez,  but  in  consequence  of  pecuniary  embarrassments 
emigrated  into  the  Spanish  territories.  Being  a  young  man  of  a  handsome 
person  and  insinuating  address,  he  had  obtained  the  good  will  of  Governor 
Cordero,  who  had  conferred  on  him  an  appointment  in  the  King's  hospital, 
and  many  other  advantages  by  which  he  might  have  made  a  fortune.  But 
he  had  recently  committed  many  great  indiscretions,  by  which  he  had 
nearly  lost  the  favour  of  Colonel  Cordero  ;  but  whilst  we  were  there  he 
was  treated  with  attention.  We  took  a  friendly  adieu  of  Governor  Her- 
rara,  and  our  other  friends  at  St.  Antonio. 


288  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

I  will  here  attempt  to  pourtray  a  faint  resemblance  of  the  characters 
of  the  two  governors,  whom  we  found  at  St.  Antonio  ;  but  to  whose  super- 
excellent  qualities  it  would  require  the  pen  of  a  master  to  do  justice. 
Don  Antonio  Cordero  was  fifty  years  of  age,  about  five  feet  ten  inches  in 
height,  fair  complexion,  and  blue  eyes :  he  wore  his  hair  turned  back,  and 
in  every  part  of  his  dress  was  eligibly  written  "the  soldier."  He  yet  pos- 
sessed an  excellent  constitution,  and  a  body  which  appeared  to  be  neither 
impaired  by  the  fatigues  of  the  various  campaigns  he  had  made,  nor  dis- 
figured by  the  numerous  wounds  received  from  the  enemies  of  his  king. 
He  was  one  of  the  select  officers  who  had  been  chosen  by  the  court  of 
Madrid,  to  be  sent  to  America  about  thirty-five  years  since,  to  discipline 
and  organize  the  Spanish  provincials,  and  had  been  employed  in  all  the 
various  kingdoms  and  provinces  of  New  Spain,  and  through  the  parts 
which  we  explored.  He  was  universally  beloved  and  respected,  and  when 
I  pronounce  him  by  far  the  most  popular  man  in  the  internal  provinces, 
I  risk  nothing  by  the  assertion.  He  spoke  the  Latin  and  French  lan- 
guages well,  was  generous,  gallant,  brave,  and  sincerely  attached  to  his  King 
and  country.  These  numerous  qualifications  have  advanced  him  to  the 
rank  of  colonel  of  cavalry,  and  governor  of  the  Provinces  of  Bogquilla  and 
Texas.  His  usual  residence  was  Montelovez,  which  he  had  greatly 
embellished;  but  since  our  taking  possession  of  Louisiana,  he  had  removed 
to  St.  Antonio,  in  order  to  be  nearer  the  frontier,  to  be  able  to  apply  the 
remedy  to  any  evil  which  might  arise  from  the  collision  of  our  lines. 

Don  Simon  de  Herrara  is  about  five  feet  eleven  inches  high,  has  a 
sparkling  black  eye,  dark  complexion  and  hair.  He  was  born  in  the 
Canary  Islands,  served  in  the  infantry  in  France,  Spain,  and  Flanders,  and 
speaks  the  French  language  well,  and  a  little  of  the  English.  He  is 
engaging  in  his  conversation  with  his  equals  ;  polite  and  obliging  to  his  infe- 
riors, and  in  all  his  actions  one  of  the  most  gallant  and  accomplished  men 
I  ever  knew.  He  possesses  a  great  knowledge  of  mankind,  from  his 
experience  in  various  countries  and  societies,  and  knows  how  to  employ 
the  genius  of  each  of  his  subordinates  to  advantage.  He  had  been  in  the 
United  States  during  the  presidency  of  General  Washington,  and  had  been 
introduced  to  that  hero,  of  whom  he  spoke  in  terms  of  exalted  veneration. 
He  is  now  lieutenant-colonel  of  infantry  and  governor  of  the  kingdom  of 
New  Leon.    His  seat  of  government  is  Montelrey  ;  and  probably  if  ever  a 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  NEW  SPAIN.  289 

chief  was  adored  by  his. people  it  is  Herrara.  When  his  time  expired  last 
he  immediately  repaired  to  Mexico,  attended  by  three  hundred  of  the  most 
respectable  people  of  his  district,  who  carried  with  them  the  sighs,  tears, 
and  prayers  of  thousands  that  he  might  be  continued  in  that  government. 
The  Vice-roy  thought  proper  to  accede  to  theirwishes  pro-tempore,  and  the 
King  has  since  confirmed  his  nomination.  When  I  saw  him  he  had  been 
about  one  year  absent,  during  which  time  the  citizens  of  rank  in  Montelrey 
had  not  suffered  a  marriage  or  baptism  to  take  place  in  any  of  their  fami- 
lies, waiting  until  their  common  father  could  be  there  to  consent,  and  give 
joy  to  the  occasion  by  his  presence.  What  greater  proof  could  be  given 
of  their  esteem  and  love  ?  In  drawing  a  parallel  between  the  two  friends. 
I  should  say,  that  Cordero  was  the  man  of  the  greatest  reading,  Herrara 
of  the  world.  Cordero  has  lived  all  his  life  a  bachelor,  Herrara  married 
an  English  lady  in  early  youth  at  Cadiz,  who,  by  her  suavity  of  manners, 
makes  herself  as  much  beloved  and  esteemed  by  the  ladies  as  her  noble 
husband  is  by  the  men.  By  her  he  has  several  children,  one  now  an  offi- 
cer in  the  service  of  his  royal  master.  But  the  two  friends  agree  perfectl  ■ 
in  one  point,  their  hatred  of  tyranny  of  every  kind,  and  in  a  secret  deter 
mination  never  to  see  that  flourishing  part  of  the  new  world  subject  to  any 
European  lord,  except  him,  whom  their  honour  and  loyalty  bind  them  to 
defend  with  their  lives  and  fortunes. 

Before  I  close  this  subject,  it  may  not  be  improper  to  state,  that  we 
owe  to  Governor  Herrara's  prudence,  that  we  are  not  now  engaged  in  a 
war  with  Spain.  This  will  be  explained  by  the  following  anecdote,  which 
he  related  in  the  presence  of  his  friend  Cordero,  and  was  confirmed  by  him: 
When  the  difficulties  commenced  on  the  Sabine,  the  Commandant  Gen- 
eral and  the  Vice-roy  consulted  each  other,  and  they  mutually  determined  to 
maintain  (what  they  demanded)  the  dominions  of  their  master  inviolate. 
The  Vice-roy  therefore  ordered  Herrara  to  join  Cordero  with  thirteen  hun- 
dred men,  and  both  the  Vice-roy  and  General  Salcedo  ordered  Cordero  to 
cause  our  troops  to  be  attacked,  should  they  pass  the  Rio  Onde.  These 
orders  were  positively  reiterated  to  Herrara,  the  actual  commanding  ofifi- 
cer  of  the  Spanish  army  on  the  frontiers,  and  gave  rise  to  the  many  mes- 
sages which  he  sent  to  Genera  Wilkinson,  when  he  was  advancing  with 
our  troops  ;  but  finding  they  were  not  attended  to,  he  called  a  council  of 
war  on  the  question,  to  attack  or  not ;  when  it  was  given  as  their  opinion, 


290 


TRAVELS  THROUGH 


that  they  should  immediately  commence  a  predatory  warfare,  but  avoid  a 
general  engagement.  Yet,  notwithstanding  the  orders  of  the  Vice-roy,  the 
Commanding  General,  Governor  Cordero,  and  the  opinion  of  his  officers, 
he  had  the  firmness  or  temerity  to  enter  into  the  agreement  with  General 
Wilkinson,  which  at  present  exists  relative  to  our  boundaries  on  that  frontier. 
On  his  return  he  was  received  with  coolness  by  Cordero,  and  they 
both  made  their  communication  to  their  superiors.  Until  an  answer  was 
received  (said  Herrara)  I  experienced  the  most  unhappy  period  of  my 
life,  conscious  I  had  served  my  country  faithfully,  at  the  same  time  I  had 
violated  every  principle  of  military  duty.  At  length  the  answer  arrived, 
and  what  was  it,  but  the  thanks  of  the  Vice-roy  and  the  Commandant  Gen- 
eral, for  having  pointedly  disobeyed  their  orders,  with  assurances  that  they 
would  represent  his  services  in  exalted  terms  to  the  King.  What  could 
have  produced  this  change  of  sentiment  is  to  me  unknown,  but  the  letter 
was  published  to  the  army,  and  confidence  again  restored  between  the 
two  chiefs  and  the  troops. 

Our  company  now  consisted  of  Lieutenant  John  Echararria,  who 
commanded  the  escort.  Captain  Eugene  Marchon,  of  New  Orleans, 
and  Father  Jose  Angel  Cabaso,  who  was  bound  to  the  camp  at  or  near 
the  Trinity,  with  a  suitable  proportion  of  soldiers.  We  proceeded  sixteen 
miles  to  a  place  called  the  Beson,  where  we  halted  until  the  loads  came  up. 
Marched  again  at  four  o'clock,  and  arrived  at  the  River  of  Guadelupe  at 
eight  o'clock  at  night.     Distance  advanced,  thirty  miles. 

Sunday,  14th  June. — When  we  left  St.  Antonio,  everything  appeared 
to  be  in  a  flourishing  and  improving  state,  owing  to  the  examples  and 
encouragement  given  to  industry,  politeness,  and  civilization  by  their 
excellent  Governor,  Cordero,  and  his  colleague  Herrara  ;  and  also  to  the 
large  body  of  troops  maintained  at  that  place,  in  consequence  of  the  dif- 
ference existing  between  the  United  States  and  Spain.  Came  on  to  the 
St.  Mark  in  the  morning ;  in  the  afternoon,  proceeded  fifteen  miles  fur- 
ther, but  were  late,  owing  to  our  having  taken  the  wrong  road.  Distance 
advanced,  thirty  miles. 

Monday,  15th  June. — Marched  twenty  miles  in  the  morning  to  a 
small  pond,  which,  in  dry  seasons,  has  no  water,  where  we  halted.  Here 
commenced  the  oak  timber,  having  seen  only  musqueet  from  St.  Antonio. 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  NEW  SPAIN.  291 

Prairie  like  the  Indian  territory.  In  the  afternoon,  came  on  six  miles 
further  to  a  creek,  where  we  encamped  early.  Distance  advanced,  twenty- 
six  miles. 

Tuesday,  i6th  June, — Marched  early,  and  at  eight  o'clock  arrived  at 
Red  river  ;  here  was  a  small  Spanish  station,  and  several  lodges  of  Tan- 
cards,  tall,  handsome  men,  but  without  exception  the  most  naked  savages 
I  ever  yet  saw.  They  complained  much  of  their  situation.  In  the  after- 
noon, passed  over  hilly,  stony  land,  with  pine  timber ;  encamped  on  a  small 
run.     Distance  advanced,  twenty-six  miles.     Killed  one  deer. 

Wednesday,  1 7th  June. — Came  on  at  nine  o'clock  to  a  large  encamp- 
ment of  Tancards,  containing  more  than  forty  lodges  ;  their  poverty  was 
as  remarkable  as  their  independence,  although  possessing  immense  herds 
of  horses,  &c.  I  gave  a  Camanche  and  Tancard  each  a  silk  handker- 
chief, and  a  recommendation  to  the  commandant  at  Natchitoches.  In  the 
afternoon,  marched  for  three  hours,  and  encamped  on  a  hill,  at  a  creek  on 
the  right  hand  side  of  the  road.  Met  a  large  herd  of  mules,  escorted  by 
four  soldiers.  The  Lieutenant  took  some  money  from  them,  which  they 
had  in  charge.     Distance  advanced,  thirty  miles. 

Thursday,  i8th  June. — Rode  on  until  half-past  ten  o'clock,  when  we 
arrived  at  the  River  Brassos,  after  having  travelled  twenty-five  miles.  Here 
is  a  stockade  guard  of  one  corporal  and  six  men,  and  a  ferry  boat.  Swam 
our  horses  over  ;  one  was  drowned,  and  several  others  near  it,  owing  to 
their  striking  each  other  with  their  feet.  After  having  crossed  the  river, 
we  proceeded  about  two  miles  on  this  side  of  a  bayou,  called  the  Little 
Brassos,  which  is  only  a  branch  of  the  other,  and  makes  an  impassable 
swamp  at  certain  seasons  between  them.  Distance  advanced,  thirtv-one 
miles. 

Friday,  1 9th  June. — Came  on  through  prairies  and  woods  alternately 
twenty  miles,  to  a  small  creek,  Corpus  Christi ;  well  wooded,  rich  land. 
In  the  afternoon,  proceeded  ten  miles,  and  passed  a  creek,  which  in  high 
water  is  nearly  impassable  for  four  miles.  Encamped  about  one  mile  on 
this  side,  on  high  land  to  the  right  of  the  road  ;  met  the  mail,  Indians, 
and  others      Distance  advanced,  thirty  miles. 

Saturday,  20th  June. — Came  on  sixteen  miles  in  the  morning  ;  passed 
several  herds  of  mustangs  or  wild    horses.      Good  land,  with   occasionally 


292  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

ponds  and  small  dry  creeks,  prairie  and  woods  alternately.  It  rained  con- 
siderably :  we  halted  to  dry  our  baggage  long  before  night.  Distance 
advanced,  twenty  miles. 

Sunday,  21st  June. — Came  on  to  the  River  Trinity  by  eight  o'clock. 
Here  were  stationed  two  captains,  two  lieutenants,  and  three  ensigns,  with 
nearly  one  hundred  men,  all  sick,  one  scarcely  able  to  assist  the  other. 
Met  a  number  of  runaway  negroes,  and  also  some  French  and  Irishmen. 
Received  information  of  Lieutenant  Wilkinson's  safe  arrival.  Crossed  all 
our  horses  and  baggage  without  much  difficulty.  Distance  advanced, 
twenty  miles. 

Monday,  22^  June. — Marched  the  mules  and  horses  in  the  forenoon, 
but  did  not  depart  ourselves  until  three  o'clock  P.  M.  Father  Jose  Angel 
Calosos  separated  from  us  at  this  place,  for  the  post  to  which  he  was 
destined.  Passed  thick  woods,  and  a  few  small  prairies  with  high  rich 
grass.  Sent  a  despatch  to  Nacogdoches.  Distance  advanced,  twenty- 
two  miles. 

Tuesday,  22)^  June. — Came  on  twenty  miles  in  the  forenoon,  to  a 
small  creek  of  standing  water;  good  land  and  well  timbered.  Met  a  ser- 
geant from  Nacogdoches.  In  the  afternoon  made  twenty  miles,  and 
crossed  the  River  Natchez,  running  north-west  and  south-east  twenty  yards 
wide.  It  was  belly  deep  to  the  horses  at  that  time,  but  sometimes  it  is 
impassable.  Two  miles  on  this  side,  encamped  on  a  hill  in  a  little  prairie. 
Mules  and  loads  arrived  at  twelve  o'clock.  The  sandy  soil  and  pine  tim- 
ber began  again  to  appear  this  afternoon,  but  the  land  near  the  river  is 
good.      Distance  advanced,  forty  miles 

Wednesday,  2\'CciJicne. — The  horses  came  up  this  morning  ;  lost  six 
over  night.  We  marched  early,  and  after  proceeding  fifteen  miles  came 
to  the  River  Angelina,  about  the  width  of  the  Natchez,  running  north  and 
south,  with  good  land  on  its  banks.  Two  miles  farther  was  a  settlement 
of  Barr  and  Davenport,  where  were  three  of  our  deserters.  One  mile  fur- 
ther, two  houses,  where  we  halted  for  dinner.  Marched  at  four  o'clock, 
and  half  past  eight  arrived  at  Nacogdoches,  where  we  were  politely 
received  by  the  adjutant  and  inspector,  and  Captains  Herrara,  Davenport, 
&c.  This  part  of  the  country  is  well  watered,  but  a  sandy,  hilly  soil,  with 
pine,  scrub  oak,  &c.     Distance  advanced,  thirty-seven  miles. 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  NEW  SPAIN.  293 

Thursday,  I'-^'Ca.  June. —  Spent  in  reading  gazettes  from  the  United 
States,  &c.  A  large  party  at  the  adjutant  and  inspector's  to  dinner. 
First  toast,  "The  President  of  the  United  States.  Second,  The  King  of 
Spain.    Third,  Governors  Herrara  and  Cordero." 

Friday,  26th.  June. — Made  preparations  to  march  the  next  day.  Saw 
an  old  acquaintance;  also  Lorrieniers's  son-in-law,  from  the  district  of  Cape 
Jerardeau.  Dined  at  the  commandant's  and  spent  the  evening  at  Daven- 
port's. 

Saturday,  2'jX.h.Junc. — Marched  after  dinner,  but  proceeded  only  twelve 
miles.  Was  escorted  by  Lieutenant  Guodiana  and  a  military  party.  Mr. 
Davenport's  brother-in-law,  who  was  taking  in  some  money,  also  accom- 
panied us.  Don  Francis  Viana,  adjutant  and  inspector  of  the  internal  prov- 
inces, who  commanded  at  Nacogdoches,  is  an  old  and  veteran  officer,  and 
was  one  of  those  who  came  to  America  at  the  same  time  with  Colonel 
Cordero  ;  hut  possessing  a  mind  of  frankness,  he  unfortunately  spoke  his 
opinions  too  freely  in  some  instances,  which,  finding  its  way  to  court,  pre- 
vented his  promotion.  But  he  is  highly  respected  by  his  superiors,  and 
looked  up  to  as  a  model  of  military  conduct  by  his  inferiors.  He  unfor- 
tunately does  not  possess  flexibility  sufficient  to  be  useful  in  the  present 
f<7rr«//^flf  state  of  the  Spanish  kingdoms.  He  is  the  officer  who  caused 
Major  Sparks  and  Mr.  Freeman  to  return  from  their  expedition  on  the 
Red  river. 

Sunday,  28th  June. — Marched  early,  and  at  nine  o'clock  crossed  the 
river  called  Toyac,  from  whence  we  pushed  on,  in  order  to  arrive  at  the 

house  of  a  Frenchman, miles  distant  from  the  Sabine.     We  stopped 

at  a  house  on  the  road,  where  the  Lieutenant  informed  me  an  American, 
by  the  name  of  Johnson,  lived,  but  was  surprised  to  find  he  had  crossed 
the  line  with  his  family,  together  with  a  French  family  from  his  neighbour- 
hood. When  we  began  conversing  with  them,  they  seemed  much  alarmed, 
thinking  we  had  come  to  examine  them,  and  expressed  great  attachment 
to  the  Spanish  government,  but  were  somewhat  astonished  to  find  I  was 
an  American  officer;  and  on  my  companion  stepping  out,  expressed  them- 
selves in  strong  terms  of  hatred  of  his  nation.  I  excused  them  for  their 
weakness,  and  gave  them  a  caution. 

The  land  here  is  fine,  and  well  watered  and  timbered,  with  hickory, 
oak,  sugar  maple,  &c.      Distance  advanced,  forty  miles. 


294    "  TRAVELS  THROUGH 

Monday,  29th  June. — Our  baggage  and  horses  came  up  about  ten 
o'clock,  when  we  despatched  them  on :  marched  ourselves  at  two  o'clock, 
and  arrived  at  the  River  Sabine  by  five.  Here  we  saw  the  cantonment  of 
the  Spanish  troops,  when  commanded  by  Colonel  Herrara,  in  the  late 
affair  between  the  two  governments.  Crossed  the  Sabine  river,  and  pro- 
ceeded about  one  league  on  this  side  to  a  little  prairie,  where  we  encamped. 
Parted  with  Lieutenant  Guodiana,  and  our  Spanish  escort.  And  here  I 
think  proper  to  bear  testimony  to  the  politeness,  civility,  and  attention  of 
all  the  officers,  who  at  different  periods,  and  in  different  provinces,  com- 
manded my  escort;  but  in  a  particular  manner,  to  Malgares  and  Barelo, 
who  appeared  studious  to  please,  and  accommodate  as  much  as  lay  in  their 
power;  and  also  to  the  obliging  mild  dispositions  evinced  in  all  instances 
by  their  rank  and  file. 

On  this  side  of  the  Sabine,  I  went  up  to  a  house,  where  I  found  ten 
or  fifteen  Americans  hovering  near  the  line,  in  order  to  embrace  an  oppor- 
tunity of  carrying  on  some  illicit  commerce  with  the  Spaniards,  who,  on 
their  side,  were  equally  eager.  Here  we  found  Thorpe  and  Sea,  who  had 
been  old  sergeants  in  General  Wayne's  army.  Distance  advanced,  fifteen 
miles. 

Tuesday,  ^oth.  June. — Marched  early,  and  came  on  fifteen  miles  to  a 
house  on  a  small  creek,  where  lived  a  Dutch  family,  named  Faulk,  where 
we  left  a  small  roan  horse  which  had  given  out.  Marched  twelve  miles 
further  to  a  large  bayou,  where  there  had  been  an  encampment  of  our 
troops,  which  I  recognized  by  its  form,  and  took  pleasure  in  imagining  the 
position  of  the  General's  marque,  and  the  tents  of  my  different  friends  and 
acquaintances.      Distance  advanced,  twenty-eight  miles. 

Wedesday,  1st  July. — Finding  that  a  horse  of  Dr.  Robinson's,  which 
had  come  all  the  way  from  Chihuahua,  could  not  proceed,  I  was  obliged 
to  leave  him  here.  Yesterday  and  to-day  passed  many  Choctaws,  whose 
clothing,  furniture,  &c.,  evidently  marked  the  superiority  of  the  situation 
of  those  who  bordered  on  our  frontiers,  to  those  of  the  naked  half-starved 
Indians  whom  we  found  hanging  round  the  Spanish  settlements.  Came 
on,  passed  a  string  of  huts,  supposed  to  be  built  by  our  troops ;  and  at  a 
small  run,  a  fortified  camp,  but  a  half  mile  from  the  hill,  where  anciently 
stood  the  village  Adyes.  We  proceeded  on  to  a  spring,  where  we  halted 
for  our  loads;  and  finding  the  horses  much  fatigued,  and  not  able   to  pro- 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  NEW  SPAIN.  295 

ceed,  left  them  and  the  baggage,  and  continued  our  journey.  We  arrived 
at  Natchitoches  about  four  o'clock  P.  M.,  and  were  affectionately  received 
by  Colonel  Freeman,  Captains  Stony  and  Woolstoncraft,  Lieutenant  Smith, 
and  all  the  officers  of  the  post. 

Language  cannot  express  the  gaiety  of  my  heart,  when  I  once  more 
beheld  the  standard  of  my  country  waved  aloft!  All  hail,  cried  I,  the 
ever-sacred  name  of  country,  in  which  is  embraced  that  of  kindred,  friends, 
and  every  other  tie  which  is  dear  to  the  soul  of  man! 

Z.  M.  Pike. 


GEOGRAPHICAL,  STATISTICAL,  AND    GENERAL 
OBSERVATIONS 

ON    THE 

INTERIOR  PROVINCES  OF  NEW  SPAIN,  FROM  LOUISIANA 
TO    THE    VICE-ROYALTY,  AND     BETWEEN     THE     , 
PACIFIC  OCEAN,  THE  GULPH    OF   CALIFOR- 
NIA, AND   THE   ATLANTIC   OCEAN. 

THE  Kingdom  of  New  Spain  lies  between  the  i6°  and  44°  N.  lati- 
tude, and  86°  and  1 19°  W.  longitude  :  it  is  divided  into  two  separate 
and  independent  governments,  and  these  again  into  various  subdivisions. 
In  the  Vice-Royalty  is  included  the  Administration  of  Guadalaxara, 
which  lies  between  18°  30'  and  24°  30'  N.  latitude,  and  104°  and  109° 
W.  longitude,  and  is  bounded  on  the  south  and  west  by  the  South  Sea;  on 
the  north  by  the  Province  of  Biscay,  and  Sinaloa;  on  the  north-east,  by  the 
Administration  of  Zacatecas  ;  on  the  east,  by  the  Administration  of  Gua- 
naxuato;  and  on  the  south-east,  by  that  of  Valladolid;  extending  three  hun- 
dred and  fifty  miles  in  length,  from  north-west  to  south-east,  and  two  hun- 
dred and  fifty  in  width  east  and  west.  The  population  may  be  estimated 
at  one  hundred  thousand.  This  is  one  of  the  most  luxuriant  and  rich 
administrations  in  the  Vice-Royalty.  It  is  intersected  from  east  to  west 
by  the  great  River  de  Santiago,  which  receives  most  of  its  waters  from 
Lake  Chapala.  Guadalaxara  the  capital,  situated  in  latitude  20°  50'  N., 
longitude  105  W.,  was  built  by  one  of  the  German  family  in  155 1,  and  in 
1570,  the  bishopric  was  removed  from  Campostella  to  that  place.  It  is 
the  seat  of  the  audience  of  Guadalaxara,  which  includes  the  Administrations 

297 


298  GEOGRAPHICAL  OBSERVATIONS  ON 

of  Guadalaxara  and  of  Zacatecas.  The  population  of  this  city  may  be  esti- 
mated at  seventy-five  thousand.* 

The  Administration  of  Valladolid  lies  between  18°  12'  and  21°  10'  N. 
latitude,  and  102°  and  105°  W.  longitude ;  being  bounded  on  the  south  by 
the  South  Sea  and  part  of  Mexico ;  on  the  east  and  north-east  by  the  lat- 
ter administration;  and  on  the  north  by  that  of  Guanaxuato.  Its  greatest 
length  from  north-east  to  south-west  is  two  hundred  and  thirty  miles,  and 
its  greatest  width  east  and  west  one  hundred  and  ninety  miles.  The 
population  may  be  estimated  at  three  hundred  and  sixty  thousand.  Its 
capital  of  the  same  name  is  situated  in  about  20°  N.  latitude,  103°  25' 
W.  longitude.     Population  unknown.f 

The  administration  of  Mexico  lies  between  16°  30'  and  21°  30'  N. 
latitude,  99"  and  105°  W.  longitude,  and  is  bounded  on  the  south  by  the 
South  Sea,  on  the  east  by  the  governments  of  Puebla  and  Vera  Cruz,  on 
the  north  by  that  of  St.  Luis,  and  on  the  west  by  Valladolid  and  Guanaxu- 
ato. Its  greatest  length  north  and  south  may  be  three  hundred  and  sixty 
miles,  and  its  greatest  width,  which  is  on  the  western  ocean,  is  two  hun- 
dred miles.  The  population  may  be  estimated  at  one  million  five  hundred 
thousand  souls.  J  The  capital  (which  is  that  of  the  whole  kingdom)  is 
Mexico,  any  description  of  which  would  be  superfluous  ;  I  will  therefore 
only  say  from  every  information  I  could  obtain  from  persons  who  had 
resided  in  it  for  years,  that  it  does  not  contain  above  two  hundred  thousand. 
Its  being  the  residence  of  the  Vice-roy,  (whose  court  is  more  splendid 
than  that  of  Madrid,)  its  central  position  as  to  the  two  ports  of 
Acapulco  and  Vera  Cruz,  together  with  the  rich  and  luxuriant  vale  which 
surrounds  it,  will  give  to  Mexico,  whenever  the  Spanish  Americans  burst 
the  present  bonds  of  slavery  in  which  they  are  enthralled,  and  become  a 
free,  great,  and  happy  people,  all  those  advantages  which  great  wealth,  a 

*  Humboldt  states  the  population  of  the  administration  for  the  year  1803,  at  six 
hundred  and  thirty  thousand  five  hundred,  and  of  the  city  nineteen  thousand  five 
hundred,     Pol    Ess.  Vol.  ii.  pp.  227,  230.     E. 

f  Administration,  three  hundred  and  seventy-six  thousand  four  hundred;  city, 
eighteen  thousand.     Pol.  Ess.  Vol.  ii.  pp.  208  and  224.     E. 

I  According  to  Humboldt,  one  million  five  hundred  and  ten  thousand  eight  hun- 
dred; of  the  capital,  one  hundred  and  eleven  thousand  and  thirty-seven.  Vol.  ii.  pp. 
3  and  183.      E. 


THE  INTERIOR  OF   NEW  SPAIN.  299 

large  population,  and  a  commanding  situation,  concentrate ;  and  assuredly 
render  it  one  of  the  greatest  cities  in  the  world.  In  point  of  population, 
it  is  now  in  the  second  rank,  but  in  beauty,  riches,  magnificence,  and 
splendour  it  aspires  to  the  first. 

The  Administration  of  Oaxaca  lies  between  16°  and  18°  N.  latitude, 
and  98°  and  1 12°  W.  longitude,  being  bounded  on  the  south  by  the  South 
Sea,  on  the  west  by  the  government  of  Puebla,  on  the  north  by  Mexico 
and  Vera  Cruz,  and  on  the  east  by  the  Province  of  Guatemala.  Its 
greatest  length  east  and  west  is  two  hundred  and  thirty  miles,  and  its  width 
north  and  south  one  hundred  and  seventy-five  miles.  The  population 
may  be  estimated  at  five  hundred  and  twenty  thousand  souls.*  The  cap- 
ital is  Oaxaca,  in  17°  30'  N.  latitude,  96°  25"  W.  longitude. 

The  administration  of  Vera  Cruz  lies  between  i  7°  and  22°  N.  lati- 
tude, 98°  and  101°  W.  longitude,  and  is  bounded  on  ;the  north  and  east 
by  the  Gulph  of  Mexico,  on  the  south  by  Oaxaca,  on  the  west  by  Puebla 
and  Mexico.  Its  greatest  length  north-west  and  south-east  is  four  hundred 
and  thirty  miles,  and  its  width  east  and  west  not  more  than  sixty  miles. 
The  population  may  be  estimated  at  two  hundred  and  twenty  thousand. 
The  capital  is  Vera  Cruz,  in  19°  10'  N.  latitude,  98°  30'  W.  longitude, 
which  is  the  sole  port  of  entry  for  all  the  kingdom  on  the  Atlantic  Ocean, 
as  that  of  Acapulco  is  on  the  western.  Its  population  may  be  estimated 
at  thirty  thousand  souls.f  This  city  was  sacked  by  the  English  on  the 
17th  May,  1683,  since  which  the  works  for  its  defence  have  been  made  so 
very  strong  as  almost  to  bid  defiance  to  any  attack  from  the  sea. 

The  Administration  of  Puebla  lies  between  16°  and  20°  N.  latitude, 
and  100°  and  102°  W.  longitude;  and  is  bounded  on  the  south  by  the 
South  Sea,  on  the  east  by  Oaxaca  and  Vera  Cruz,  and  on  the  north  and 
west  by  Mexico,  extending  nearly  three  hundred  miles  in  its  greatest 
length  from  north  to  south,  and  one  hundred  and  twenty  in  its  greatest 
width  from  east  to  west.  The  population  may  be  estimated  at  eight  hun- 
dred thousand  souls.     Its  capital  is  the  city  of  La  Puebla,  in    19°  12'  N. 

*  The  administration  in  1803,  five  hundred  and  thirty-four  thousand  eight  hun- 
dred; the  capital,  in  1792,  twenty-four  thousand.     Humb.  Vol.  ii.  pp.  235  and  242.   E. 
f  Administration  in  1803,  one  hundred  and  fifty-six  thousand  ;  city,  sixteen  thou- 
sand.    Humb.  Vol.  ii.  pp.  250  and  267.  E. 


300  GEOGRAPHICAL   OBSERVATIONS   ON 

latitude,  ioo°  50'  W.  longitude,  with  an  estimated  population  of  eighty 
thousand  souls.* 

The  Administration  of  Guanaxuato  lies  between  21°  30'  and  22°  30' 
N.  latitude,  and  103°  and  105°  W.  longitude  ;  bounded  on  the  south  by  Val- 
ladolid,  on  the  east  by  Mexico,  on  the  north  by  St.  Luis  Zacatecas,  and  on 
the  west  by  Guadalaxara.  Its  greatest  extent  from  north  to  south  is  sev- 
enty-five miles,  and  from  east  to  west  eighty-five.  The  population  may  be 
estimated  at  five  hundred  thousand  souls.f  Its  capital  city  is  Guanaxuato, 
in  latitude  21°  N.,  longitude  103°  W. 

The  Administration  of  Zacatecas  lies  between  21°  20'  and  24"  12'  N. 
latitude,  103°  and  105°  30'  W.  longitude  ;  bounded  on  the  north  by  the 
internal  Province  of  Biscay,  on  the  east  by  St.  Luis,  on  the  west  by  Guada- 
laxara, and  on  the  south  by  Guanaxuato.  Its  greatest  length  is  two  hun- 
dred and  ten  miles  north  and  south,  and  its  greatest  width  a  hundred  and 
forty-five  from  east  to  west.  Its  population  may  be  estimated  at  two  hun- 
dred and  fifty  thousand  two  hundred  and  fifty  souls.  J  The  capital,  Zaca- 
tecas, stands  in  23°  N.  latitude  and  104°  W.  longitude. 

The  Administration  of  St.  Luis  Potosi  lies  between  21°  20'  and  28° 
50'  N.  latitude,  and  99°  and  102°  W.  longitude,  and  includes  Texas  and 
St.  Ander.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  New  Leon,  on  the  east  by  the 
Province  of  St.  Ander,  on  the  south  by  Guanaxuato  and  Mexico,  and  on 
the  west  by  Zacatecas.  Its  greatest  length  from  east  to  west  is  a  hundred 
and  seventy  miles.  The  population  may  be  estimated  at  three  hundred 
and  eleven  thousand  five  hundred  souls.  Its  capital,  St.  Luis  de  Potosi, 
with  a  population  of  sixty  thousand  §,  stands  in  22°  N.  latitude,  103°  W. 
longitude,  and  was  founded  in  1568. 

The  Province  of  Neuvo  San  Ander  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the 
Province  of  Texas,  on   the  west  by  Neuvo  Leon    and  Cogquilla,  on  the 

south  by  St.  Luis,  and  on  the  east  by  the  Atlantic  Ocean.      From  north 

-  .  _.  -  ^_ 

*  The  administration,  eight  hundred  and  thirteen  thousand  three  hundred  ;  the 
capital,  sixty-seven  thousand  eight  hundred.     Humb.  Vol.  ii.  pp.  190  and  200.     E. 

f  Administration,  five  hundred  and  seventeen  thousand  three  hundred;  capital 
forty-one  thousand.     Humb.  Vol.  ii.  pp.  204  and  206.     E. 

J  Administration,  one  hundred  and  fifty-three  thousand  and  three  hundred  ; 
capital,  thirty-three  thousand.     Humb.  Vol.  ii.  pp.  233,  234.     E. 

§  The  administration,  three  hundred  and  thirty-four  thousand  nine  hundred  ; 
capital,  twelve  thousand.     Humb.  Vol.  ii.  pp.  271  and  272.     E. 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  NEW  SPAIN.  301 

to  south  it  is  about  five  hundred  miles  in  length,  but  from  east  to  west  not 
more  than  one  hundred  and  fifty.  Its  population  may  be  estimated  at 
thirty-eight  thousand  souls.  The  capital,  New  San  Ander,  is  on  the  river 
of  that  name  about  forty  miles  from  the  sea,  in  23°  45'  N.  latitude,  and 
101°  W.  lono-itude. 

The  Kingdom  of  New  Leon  is  bounded  on  the  east  by  New  San 
Ander,  on  the  north  by  Cogquilla,  on  the  west  by  Biscay,  and  on  the  south 
by  St.  Luis  and  Zacatecas.  Its  greatest  length  north  and  south  is  two 
hundred  and  fifty  miles.  Its  population  may  be  estimated  at  thirty  thousand 
souls.  Its  capital,  Montelrey,  is  situated  on  the  head  waters  of  Tiger  river, 
which  discharges  itself  into  the  Gulph  of  Mexico.  The  city  of  Montelrey 
contains  about  eleven  thousand,  and  is  the  seat  of  the  Bishop  Don  Dio 
Premiro,  who  visited  the  port  of  Natchitoches, when  commanded  by  Captain 
Turner  of  the  2d  United  States  regiment  infantry.  His  Episcopal  juris- 
diction extends  over  New  San  Ander,  New  Leon,  CogquIUa  and  Texas, 
and*  his  salary  is  equal  to  one  hundred  thousand  dollars  per  annum. 
Montelrey  is  situated  in  26°  N.  latitude,  and  102°  W.  longitude.  There 
are  many  and  rich  mines  near  this  city,  from  whence  I  am  informed  are 
taken  one  hundred  mules'  load  of  bullion  in  silver  and  gold  monthly,  which 
may  be  presumed  to  be  not  more  than  three-fifths  of  what  is  drawn  from 
the  mines,  there  being  many  persons  who  prefer  never  getting  their  metal 
coined,  as  it  is  then  not  so  easily  ascertained  what  they  are  worth,  which  is 
an  important  secret  in  all  despotic  governments. 

The  foregoing  nine  administrations,  (or  intendancies,)'  the  Kingdom 
of  Leon,  and  the  Province  of  Nuevo  San  Ander,  are  included  in  the  two 
audiences  of  Guadalaxara  and  Mexico,  and  form,  I  believe,  the  whole 
political  government  of  the  Vice-roy.  But  I  am  not  positive  whether  his 
jurisdiction  does  not  include  the  Audience  of  Guatemala,  which  lies  to  the 
south  and  includes  the  province  proper  of  that  name :  that  of  Chiapa, 
Yucatan,  Veragua,  Costa  Rica,  and  Honduras.  An  audience  is  the  high 
court  of  appeals,  in  which  the  Vice-roy  presides,  and  has  two  votes;  it  is 
intended  as  a  check  on  his  power  and  authority.  The  administrations 
are  governed  by  intendants,  who  are  officers  of  'high  rank,  and  always 
Europeans. 

The  longitude  given  is  from  the  meridian  of  Paris.  In  the  general 
view  of    New  Spain,   I   shall  take  some  notice  of    the    manners,  modes. 


302  GEOGRAPHICAL  OBSERVATIONS  ON 

force,  &c.,  of  the  Vice-royalty ;  but  as  I  do  not  pretend  to  be  correctly 
informed  respecting  this  quarter  of  the  kingdom,  and  there  being  so 
many  persons  who  have  given  statements  on  these  heads,  I  shall  confine 
my  remarks  principally  to  the  internal  provinces  through  which  I  passed, 
and  on  which  I  made  my  observations. 

INTERNAL  PROVINCES. 

New  Mexico  lies  between  30°  30'  and  440°  N.  latitude,  and  104°  and 
108°  W,  longitude,  and  is  the  most  northern  province  of  the  Kingdom  of 
New  Spain.  It  extends  on  the  north-west  into  an  undefined  limit ;  it  is 
bounded  on  the  north  and  east  by  Louisiana,  on  the  south  by  Biscay  and 
Cogquilla,  and  on  the  west  by  Senora  and  California.  Its  length  is 
unknown,  its  breadth  may  be  one  hundred  miles,  but  the  inhabited  part  is 
not  more  than  four  hundred  miles  in  length,  and  fifty  in  breadth,  lying 
along  the  River  del  Norte,  from  the  31"  30'  to  the  2,7°  N.  latitude.  But 
in  this  space  there  is  a  desert  of  more  than  two  hundred  and  fifty 
miles. 

Air  and  Climate. — No  person  accustomed  to  reside  in  the  temperate 
climate  of  the  36°  and  37°  N.  latitude  in  the  United  States,  can  form 
any  idea  of  the  piercing  cold  experienced  in  that  parallel  in  New  Mexico. 
But  the  air  is  serene,  not  subject  to  damps  or  fogs,  as  it  rains  but 
once  a  year  and  some  years  not  at  all :  it  is  a  mountainous  country,  and 
the  grand  dividing  ridges  which  separate  the  waters  of  the  Rio  del  Norte 
from  those  of  California,  bordering  it  on  the  line  of  its  western  limits, 
and  which  are  covered  in  some  places  with  eternal  snows,  give  a  keen- 
ness to  the  air,  which  would  never  be  calculated  on  in  a  temperate 
zone. 

Timber  and  Plains. — The  cotton-tree  is  the  sole  production  of  this 
province,  except  some  scrubby  pines  and  cedars  at  the  foot  of  the  mount- 
ains ;  the  former  borders  the  banks  of  the  Rio  del  Norte,  and  its 
tributary  streams.  All  the  rest  of  the  country  presents  to  the  eye  a 
barren  wild  of  poor  land,  scarcely  to  be  improved  by  culture,  and  appears 
only  capable  of  producing  a  scanty  subsistence  for  the  animals,  which 
live  on  a  few  succulent  plants  and  herbage. 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  NEW  SPAIN.  303 

Mines,  Minerals,  and  Fossils. — There  are  no  mines  known  in  the 
province,  except  one  of  copper,  situated  in  a  mountain  on  the  western 
side  of  the  Rio  del  Norte  in  latitude  34°  N.  It  is  wrought,  and 
produces  twenty  thousand  mule  loads  of  copper  annually,  furnishing  that 
article  for  the  manufactories  of  nearly  all  the  internal  provinces.  It  con- 
tains gold,  but  not  quite  in  sufficient  quantity  to  pay  for  its  extraction, 
consequently  it  has  not  been  pursued.  There  is  near  Santa  Fe  in  some 
of  the  mountains  a  stratum  of  talc,  which  is  so  large  and  flexible  as  to 
admit  of  being  subdivided  into  thin  flakes,  of  which  the  greatest  propor- 
tion of  the  houses  in  Santa  Fe  and  all  the  villages  to  the  north  have  their 
window-lights  made. 

Rivers. — The  River  del  Norte  takes  its  rise  in  the  mountains,  which 
give  birth  to  the  head  waters  of  California,  the  Plate,  Pierre,  Jaune  of  the 
Missouri,  and  Arkansaw  of  the  Mississippi,  in  40°  N.  latitude,  and 
110°  W.  longitude  (from  Paris).  Its  course  from  its  source  to  the  Gulph 
of  Mexico  may  be  by  its  meanders  estimated  at  two  thousand  miles ; 
passing  through  the  Provinces  of  New  Mexico,  part  of  Biscay,  Cogquilla, 
and  New  San  Ander,  where  it  falls  into  the  Gulph  in  26°  N.  latitude.  It 
cannot  in  any  part  of  its  course  be  termed  a  navigable  stream,  owing  to 
sand  bars  in  the  flat  country,  and  mountains  in  the  upper  part,  with  which 
its  course  is  interrupted  ;  but  small  boats  might  ascend  as  high  as  the 
Presidio  de  Rio  Grande,  in  Cogquilla,  and  it  might  be  navigable  for 
canoes  in  various  parts  of  its  course.  Even  in  the  mountains  above  Santa 
Fe  it  afforded  amply  sufficient  water  for  that  species  of  navigation,  and 
more  than  appeared  to  be  flowing  in  its  bed  in  the  plains.  This  must  be 
attributed  to  the  numerous  canals  and  the  dry  sandy  soil,  through  which 
the  river  takes  its  course,  and  where  much  of  the  water  that  flows  from 
the  mountains  is  absorbed  and  lost.  In  the  Province  of  New  Mexico  it 
is  called  the  Rio  del  Norte,  below  it  is  termed  the  Rio  Grande,  but  in 
no  instance  did  I  hear  it  called  the  Rio  Bravo,  as  many  of  our  ancient 
maps  designated  it.  There  are  also  in  the  limits  of  this  province  to  the 
west,  the  Rivers  San  Rafael,  San  Xavier,  River  de  los  Dolores,  also  de  los 
Anamas  or  Nabajos  ;  all  of  which  unite  and  form  the  Great  Rio  Colorado 
of  California  ;  the  first  two  take  their  sources  in  the  same  mountains  as  the 
Rio  del  Norte,  but  on  the  western  side. 


304  GEOGRAPHICAL  OBSERVATIONS  ON 

The  River  Colorado  by  its  meanders  may  be  about  one  thousand  miles 
in  length,  from  its  sources  to  its  entrance  into  the  head  of  the  Gulph  of 
California  in  the  ^t,°  N.  latitude.  It  has  been  represented  to  me  by 
men  of  information  and  research,  to  be  navigable  for  three  hundred  miles 
above  the  gulph  for  square  rigged  vessels. 

By  this  river  and  the  Arkansaw,  the  best  communication  might  be 
established  between  the  two  oceans  in  North  America.  There  are  repre- 
sented to  be  various  numerous  and  warlike  nations  of  Indians  on  its 
banks.  Through  the  whole  of  its  course  its  shores  are  entirely  destitute 
of  timber,  and  I  was  informed  that  for  three  hundred  miles  there  was  not 
a  tree  ten  inches  in  diameter. 

The  River  Buenaventura  empties  into  the  Pacific  Ocean  to  the  North 
of  California  in  39°  30'  N.  latitude,  and  takes  its  source  in  the  Sierra 
Madre  to  the  north  of  the  Colorado  and  Del  Norte.  The  Rio  Gila  heads 
opposite  to  the  copper  mines,  and  discharges  itself  into  the  Gulph  of  Cali- 
fornia, just  below  the  Colorado  in  the  33°  N  latitude.  The  Rio 
Puerco  is  a  branch  of  the  Rio  del  Norte,  and  comes  from  the  north  and 
joins  that  river  about  one  hundred  miles  below  the  Presidio  del  Norte. 
None  of  the  foregoing  streams  have  the  vestige  of  civilization  on  their 
shores,  excepting  the  Rio  del  Norte. 

Lakes. — I  know  of  no  lakes  in  the  province  except  that  of  Tampana- 
gos,  the  existence  of  which  I  rather  look  upon  as  fabulous.  It  is  said  to 
commence,  according  to  Father  Escalante,  in  the  40°  N.  latitude,  and 
to  have  been  explored  to  the  42°  in  a  north-west  direction,  when  it 
enlarged  its  dimensions,  and  the  discoverer  thought  proper  to  return. 

Animals. — North  Mexico  produces  deer,  elk,  buffalo,  cabrie,  the  gris- 
ley  black  bear,  and  wild  horses,  all  of  which  are  too  well  known  to  need 
description. 

Population. — Its  population  is  not  far  short  of  thirty  thousand  souls,* 
one-twentieth  of  which  may  be  Spaniards  from  Europe  (or  Chapetones)  ; 
four-twentieths  Creoles ;  five-twentieths  Mestis,  and  the  other  half  civil- 
ized Indians. 

Chief  Town. — The  capital  is  Santa  Fe,  situated  on  a  small  stream 
which  empties  into  the  Rio  del  Norte,  on  the  eastern  side,  at  the  foot  of 

*  Humboldt  makes  the  population  forty  thousand    two  hundred,  and  that  of  the 
capital  three  thousand  six  hundred.     Vol.  ii.  pp.  307  and  317.     E. 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  NEW  SPAIN.  305 

the  mountains  which  divide  the  waters  of  that  river  from  the  Arkansaw 
and  Red  rivers  of  the  Mississippi,  in  36°  N.  latitude  and  109°  W.  lon- 
gitude. It  is  of  a  long,  rectangular  form,  extending  about  one  mile  from 
east  to  west  on  the  banks  of  the  creek.  In  the  centre  is  the  public  square, 
one  side  of  which  forms  the  flank  of  the  soldiers'  square,  which  is  closed, 
and  in  some  degree  defended  by  round  towers  in  the  angles  which  flank 
the  curtains ;  another  side  of  the  square  is  formed  by  the  palace  of  the 
Governor,  his  guard-houses,  &c.  ;  another  is  occupied  by  the  priests  and 
their  suite,  and  the  fourth  by  the  chapitones,  who  reside  in  the  city.  The 
houses  are  generally  only  one  story  high,  with  flat  roofs,  and  have  a  very 
mean  appearance  on  the  outside,  but  some  of  them  are  richly  furnished, 
especially  with  plate.  The  secondary  cities  in  the  province  are  Albuquerque 
and  Passo  del  Norte ;  the  latter  is  the  southern  city  of  the  province,  as 
Taos  is  the  most  northern.  But  between  the  village  of  Sibilleta  and  the 
Passo,  there  is  a  wilderness  of  near  two  hundred  miles. 

Trade  and  Commerce. — New  Mexico  carries  on  a  trade  direct  with 
Mexico  and  Biscay,  also  with  Senora  and  Sinaloa.  It  sends  out  annually 
about  thirty  thousand  sheep,  tobacco,  dressed  deer  and  cabrie  skins,  some 
fur,  buffalo  robes,  salt,  and  wrought  copper  vessels  of  a  superior  quality. 
It  receives  in  return  from  Biscay  and  Mexico,  dry  goods,  confectionary, 
arms,  iron,  steel,  ammunition,  and  some  choice  European  wines  and  liquors. 
From  Senora  and  Sinaloa,  gold,  silver,  and  cheese.  The  following  articles 
sell  as  stated  in  this  province,  which  will  shew  the  cheapness  of  provision, 
and  the  extreme  dearness  of  goods  :  flour  at  two  dollars  per  hundred,  salt 
five  dollars  the  mule  load,  sheep  one  dollar  each,  pork  twenty-five  dollars 
per  hundred,  beeves  five  dollars  each,  wine  Del  Passo  fifteen  dollars  per 
barrel,  horses  eleven  dollars  each,  mules  thirty  dollars  each ;  superfine 
cloths  twenty-five  dollars  per  yard,  fine  ditto  twenty  dollars,  linen  four 
dollars,  and  all  other  dry  goods  in  proportion.  The  journey  with  loaded 
mules  from  Santa  F^  to  Mexico  and  returning  takes  five  months.  They 
manufacture  rough  leather,  segars,  a  vast  variety  and  quantity  of  potter's 
ware,  cotton,  some  coarse  woolen  cloths,  and  blankets  of  a  superior  qual- 
ity. All  these  manufactures  are  carried  on  by  the  civilized  Indians,  as  the 
Spaniards  think  it  more  honourable  to  be  agriculturists  than  mechanics. 
The  Indians  likewise  far  exceed  their  conquerors  in  the  fecundity  and 
variety  of  genius  in  all  mechanical  operations. 


3o6  GEOGRAPHICAL  OBSERVATIONS  ON 

Agriculture. — New  Mexico  has  the  exclusive  right  of  cultivating 
tobacco.  About  two  miles  above  the  town  of  the  Passo  del  Norte  is  a 
bridge  over  the  river,  where  the  road  passes  to  the  western  side,  at  which 
place  is  a  large  canal  that  takes  out  an  ample  supply  of  water  for  the  pur- 
pose of  cultivation,  which  is  carried  on  at  this  place  in  as  great  perfection 
as  at  any  I  visited  in  the  province.  There  is  a  wall  bordering  the  canal 
the  whole  way  on  both  sides  to  protect  it  from  the  animals  ;  and  when  it 
arrives  at  the  village  it  is  distributed  in  such  a  manner  that  each  person 
has  his  fields  watered  in  succession.  At  this  place  were  as  finely  cultivated 
fields  of  wheat  and  other  small  grain  as  I  ever  saw.  And  also  numerous 
vineyards,  from  which  were  produced  the  finest  wine  ever  drank  in  the 
country,  which  was  celebrated  throughout  all  the  provinces,  and  was  the 
only  wine  used  on  the  table  of  the  commanding  general. 

They  cultivate  corn,  wheat,  rye,  barley,  rice,  and  all  the  common 
culinary  plants  of  the  same  latitude  in  the  United  States.  But  they 
are  at  least  a  century  behind  us  in  the  art  of  cultivation,  for  notwithstand- 
ing the  numerous  herds  of  cattle  and  horses,  I  have  seen  them  frequently 
breaking  up  whole  fields  with  the  hoe.  Their  oxen  draw  by  the  horns 
after  the  French  mode*  But  their  carts  are  extremely  awkward  and 
clumsily  made.  During  the  whole  of  the  time  we  were  in  New  Spain  I 
never  saw  one  horse  in  a  vehicle  of  any  description,  mules  being  made  use 
of  in  carriages,  as  well  as  for  the  purpose  of  labour. 

Antiquities. — On  the  River  St.  Francis,  a  large  branch  of  the  Gila 
which  heads  near  the  copper  mines  in  New  Mexico,  and  discharges  itself 
into  the  Red  river  of  California,  are  the  remains  of  old  walls  and  houses 
which  are  established  to  be  the  vestiges  of  the  Mexicans  on  their  route  of 
emigration  from  the  north-west  to  the  plains  of  Mexico,  where  they  finally 
established  themselves.  Those  walls  are  of  a  black  cement  which  increases 
in  stability  with  age,  and  bids  defiance  to  the  war  of  time ;  the  secret 
of  its  composition  is  now  entirely  lost.  There  are  also  found  at  this 
place  many  broken  pieces  of  earthenware  which  still  possesses  the  glazing 
as  perfect  as  when  first  put  on. 

Aborigines. — The  Kyaways  wander  on  the  sources  of  the  Plate,  and 
are  supposed  to  be  one  thousand  and  nine  men  strong.     They  possess 

*  In  this  they  only  imitate  the  parent  country.     E. 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  NEW  SPAIN.  307 

immense  herds  of  horses,  and  are  at  war  with  both  the  Pawnees  and 
letans,  as  well  as  with  the  Sioux.  They  are  armed  with  bows,  arrows 
and  lances,  and  follow  the  buffalo.  This  nation,  the  letans,  and  the  Utahs 
speak  the  same  language. 

The  Utahs  wander  on  the  sources  of  the  Rio  del  Norte  ;  they  are 
supposed  to  be  two  thousand  warriors  strong,  are  armed  in  the  same  man- 
ner, and  pursue  the  same  game,  as  the  Kyaways,  but  are  a  little  more 
civilized,  having  more  connection  with  the  Spaniards,  with  whom  however 
they  are  frequently  at  war.  They  were  at  this  time  at  peace  with  them, 
but  waging  war  with  the  letans. 

A  battle  was  fought  between  them  and  the  letans,  in  September, 
1806,  near  the  village  of  Taos;  there  were  about  four  hundred  combatants 
in  each  army,  but  were  separated  by  a  Spanish  Alcalde  riding  out  to  the 
field  of  battle.  There  were  eight  or  ten  killed  on  each  side.  The  Utahs 
gave  all  the  horses  they  had  taken  to  the  Spaniards.  This  shews,  in  a 
strong  degree,  the  influence  the  Spaniards  have  over  these  Indians. 

The  Nanahaws  are  situated  to  the  north-west  of  Santa  Fe,  and  are 
frequently  at  war  with  the  Spaniards.  They  are  supposed  to  be  two  thou- 
sand warriors  strong,  and  are  armed  in  the  same  manner  as  the  two  pre- 
ceding nations.  This  nation,  as  well  as  all  others  to  the  west  of  them, 
bordering  on  California,  speak  the  language  of  the  Apaches  and  Lee 
Panis,  who  are  in  a  line  with  them  to  the  Atlantic. 

The  Apaches  are  a  nation  of  Indians,  who  extend  from  the  Black 
Mountains  in  New  Mexico  to  the  borders  of  Cogquilla,  keeping  the  front- 
iers of  three  provinces  in  a  continual  state  of  alarm  and  dread,  and 
employing  nearly  two  thousand  dragoons  to  escort  the  caravans,  protect 
the  villages,  and  revenge  the  various  attacks  they  are  continually  making 
on  the  subjects  of  His  Catholic  Majesty.  They  formerly  extended  from 
the  entrance  of  the  Rio  Grande  to  the  Gulph  of  California,  and  have  waged 
a  continual  warfare  with  the  exception  of  short  truces,  with  the  Spaniards, 
from  the  time  they  pushed  their  conquests  back  from  Mexico  into  the 
internal  provinces.  It  is  extremely  difficult  to  say  what  their  numbers  are 
at  the  present  day,  but  they  must  be  extremely  reduced  by  their  long  and 
constant  hostilities,  together  with  the  wandering  and  savage  life  they  lead 
on  the  mountains,  which  is  so  injurious  to  an  increase  of  population,  and 
in  which  they  are  extremely  pinched  by  famine. 


3o8  GEOGRAPHICAL  OBSERVATIONS  ON 

At  the  commencement  of  their  warfare,  the  Spaniards  used  to  take 
their  prisoners  and  make  slaves  of  them,  but  finding  that  their  unconquer- 
able attachment  to  liberty  made  them  surmount  every  difficulty  and  dan- 
ger to  return  to  their  mountains,  they  adopted  the  practice  of  sending 
them  to  Cuba.  This  the  Apaches  no  sooner  learned  than  they  refused 
to  give  or  receive  quarter,  and  in  no  instance  have  there  been  any  taken 
since  that  period,  except  when  surprised  asleep,  or  knocked  down  and 
overpowered.  Their  arms  are  the  bow  and  arrow,  and  the  lance.  The 
bow  forms  two  semicircles,  with  a  shoulder  in  the  middle;  the  back  of  it  is 
entirely  covered  with  sinews,  which  are  laid  on  in  so  nice  a  manner,  by 
the  use  of  some  glutinous  substance,  as  to  be  almost  imperceptible;  this 
gives  great  force  to  the  elasticity  of  the  weapon.  Their  arrow  is  more 
than  the  cloth  yard  of  the  English,  being  three  feet  and  a  half  long,  the 
upper  part  consisting  of  some  light  rush  or  cane,  into  which  is  inserted  a 
shaft  of  about  one  foot,  made  of  some  hard  seasoned  light  wood;  the  point 
is  of  iron,  cane,  or  stone,  and  when  the  arrow  enters  the  body,  in  attempt- 
ing to  extract  it  the  shaft  comes  out  of  its  socket  and  remains  in  the 
wound.  With  this  weapon  they  shoot  with  such  force  as  to  go  through 
the  body  of  a  man,  at  the  distance  of  one  hundred  yards  ;  and  an  officer 
told  me,  that  in  an  engagement  with  them  one  of  their  arrows  struck  his 
shield  and  dismounted  him  in  an  instant.  Their  other  weapon  of  offence  is 
a  lance  of  fifteen  feet  in  length,  which  with  both  hands  they  charge  over 
their  heads,  managing  the  horse  principally  with  their  knees.  With  this 
they  are  considered  as  an  over-match  for  the  Spanish  dragoons  single 
handed,  but  for  want  of  the  tactic  can  never  stand  the  charge  of  a  body 
that  cuts  in  concert  :  they  all  have  the  shield.  Some  few  are  armed  with 
guns  and  ammunition,  taken  from  the  Spaniards.  These,  as  well  as  the 
archers,  generally  march  to  war  on  foot,  but  the  lance  men  are  always 
mounted. 

Numerous  are  the  anecdotes  I  heard  related  of  their  personal  bravery, 
and  the  spirit  of  their  partisan  corps.  Not  long  before  I  passed  through, 
as  a  cornet  with  sixty-three  dragoons  was  passing  between  New  Mexico 
and  Biscay,  he  was  surrounded  by  about  two  hundred  Apaches  infantry, 
and  instead  of  charging  through  them  (as  it  was  on  the  plain)  he  ordered 
his  dragoons  to  dismount  and  fight  with  their  carabines,  by  which  means 
he  and  his  whole  party  fell  a  sacrifice.     Malgares  related  an  instance  when 


THE   INTERIOR  OF  NEW  SPAIN.  309 

he  was  marching  with  one  hundred  and  forty  men,  and  was  attacked  by  a 
party  of  Apaches,  both  horse  and  foot,  who  continued  the  fight  for  four 
hours.  Whenever  the  Spanish  dragoons  made  a  general  charge  the 
Apaches  cavalry  would  retreat  behind  their  infantry,  who  met  the  Span- 
iards with  a  shower  of  arrows,  on  which  they  immediately  retreated,  and 
even  the  gallant  Malgares  spoke  of  his  cavalry  breaking  their  infantry  as  a 
thing  not  to  be  thought  of.  How  quickly  would  one  full  squadron  of  our 
troops  have  put  them  to  flight  and  cut  them  to  pieces  ?  Malgares  assured 
me  that  if  the  men  had  seconded  the  efforts  and  bravery  of  the  Indian  chief- 
tain, they  must  have  been  defeated  and  cut  to  pieces ;  that  in  various 
instances  he  rallied  his  men  and  brought  them  up  to  the  charge,  and  when 
they  flew,  retired  indignantly  in  the  rear.  Seeing  Malgares  very  actively 
engaged  in  forming  and  bringing  up  the  men,  he  rode  out  a-head  of  his 
party  and  challenged  him  to  single  combat  with  his  lance.  This  my  friend 
refused  as  he  said  the  chief  was  one  of  the  stoutest  mea  he  knew,  carried  a 
remarkably  heavy  lance,  and  rode  a  very  fine  charger;  but  one  of  his  corpo- 
rals enraged  to  see  them  thus  braved  by  the  savage,  begged  permission 
to  meet  the  "  infidel."  His  ofiicer  refused  his  request,  and  ordered  him 
to  keep  his  ranks ;  but  he  reiterating  his  request,  his  superior  in  a  pas- 
sion told  him  to  go. 

The  Indian  chief  had  turned  his  horse  to  join  his  party,  but  seeing 
his  enemy  advancing,  turned,  and  giving  a  shout,  met  him  at  full  speed. 
The  dragoon  thought  to  parry  the  lance  of  his  antagonist,  which  he  in 
part  effected,  but  not  throwing  it  quite  high  enough,  it  entered  his  neck  in 
front  and  came  out  at  the  nape,  when  he  fell  dead  to  the  ground,  and  his 
victorious  enemy  gave  a  shout  of  victory,  in  which  he  was  joined  by  all 
his  followers.  This  enraged  the  Spaniards  to  such  a  degree  that  they 
made  a  general  charge,  in  which  the  Indian  cavalry  again  retreated  not 
withstanding  the  entreaties  of  their  gallant  leader.  In  another  instance  a 
small  smoke  was  discovered  on  the  prairie,  and  three  poor  savages  were 
surrounded  by  one  hundred  dragoons,  and  ordered  to  lay  down  their  arms. 
They  smiled  at  the  officer's  demand,  and  asked  him  if  he  could  suppose  that 
men  who  had  arms  in  their  hands  would  ever  consent  to  become  slaves? 
He  being  loth  to  kill  them,  held  a  conference  for  an  hour,  when  finding  that 
his  threats  had  as  little  effect  as  his  entreaties,  he  ordered  his  men  to  attack 
them  at  a  distance,  keeping  out  of  the  reach  of  their  arrows,  and  firing 


3IO  GEOGRAPHICAL   OBSERVATIONS  ON 

at  them  with  their  carabines,  which  they  did,  the  Indians  never  ceasing  to 
resist  as  long  as  Hfe  remained. 

In  a  truce  which  was  once  held,  a  captain  was  ordered  to  treat  with 
some  of  the  bands ;  he  received  their  deputies  with  hauteur,  and  they 
could  not  come  to  terms;  the  truce  was  broken,  the  Indians  retreated  to 
their  fastnesses  in  the  mountains.  In  a  day  or  two  this  same  officer  pur- 
sued them.  They  were  in  a  place  called  the  Door  in  the  Mountains, 
where  only  two  or  three  dragoons  could  enter  at  a  time,  and  there  were 
rocks  and  caves  on  the  flanks.  Between  the  Indians  secreted  them- 
selves, until  a  number  of  the  Spaniards  had  come  in,  when  the  Indians 
sounded  a  trumpet,  and  the  attack  began  and  continued  on  the  side 
of  the  Apaches,  until  the  captain  fell,  when  the  Indian  chief  caused 
the  firing  to  cease,  saying,  that  "the  man  who  had  so  haughtily  spurned 
the  proffered  peace  was  now  dead,"  They  made  prisoner  (for  once)  of 
a  young  officer  who  during  the  truce  had  treated  them  with  great  kind- 
ness, and  sent  him  home  safe  and  unhurt. 

Some  of  the  bands  have  made  temporary  truces  with  the  Spaniards, 
and  received  from  them  twenty-five  cents  per  diem  each.  These  people 
hang  round  the  fortifications  of  the  country,  drink,  shoot,  and  dissipate 
their  time  ;  they  are  haughty  and  independent,  and  great  jealousy  exists 
between  them  and  the  Spaniards.  An  officer  was  under  trial  when  I  was 
in  the  country  for  anticipating  an  attack  on  his  fortress,  by  attacking  the 
chiefs  of  the  supposed  conspiracy,  and  putting  them  to  death  before  they 
had  time  to  mature  and  carry  their  plan  into  operation.  The  decision  of 
his  case  I  never  learnt ;  but  those  savages  who  have  been  for  some  time 
around  the  forts  and  villages  become  by  far  the  most  dangerous  enemies 
the  Spaniards  have  when  hostile,  as  they  acquire  the  Spanish  language, 
manners,  and  habits,  and  passing  through  the  populated  parts  under  the 
disguise  of  the  civilized  and  friendly  Indians,  commit  murders  and  rob- 
beries without  being  suspected.  There  is  in  the  Province  of  Cogquilla  a 
partisan  by  the  name  of  Ralph,  who,  it  is  calculated,  has  killed  more  than 
three  hundred  persons.  He  comes  into  the  town  under  the  disguise  of  a 
peasant,  buys  provision,  goes  to  the  gambling  tables  and  to  mass,  and 
before  he  leaves  the  village  is  sure  to  kill  some  person,  or  carry  off  a 
woman,  which  he  has  frequently  done.  Sometimes  he  joins  travellers  on 
the  road,  insinuates  himself  into  their  confidence,  and  takes  his  opportu- 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  NEW  SPAIN.  311 

nity  to  assassinate  them.  He  has  only  six  followers,  and  from  their 
knowledge  of  the  country,  their  activity,  and  cunning,  he  keeps  about 
three  hundred  dragoons  continually  employed.  The  government  has 
offered  one  thousand  dollars  for  his  head. 

The  civilized  Indians  of  the  Province  of  New  Mexico  consist  of  what 
were  formerly  twenty-four  different  bands,  the  several  names  of  which  I 
was  not  able  to  learn.  But  the  Keres  were  one  of  the  most  powerful ; 
they  form  at  present  the  population  of  St.  Domingo,  St.  Philip's  and  Deis, 
and  one  or  two  other  towns.  They  are  men  of  large  stature,  round,  full 
visage,  fine  teeth,  and  appear  to  be  of  a  gentle,  tractable  disposition  ;they 
resemble  the  Osage  more  than  any  nation  in  my  knowledge.  Although 
they  are  not  the  vassals  of  individuals,  yet  they  may  properly  be  termed 
the  slaves  of  the  state  ;  for  they  are  compelled  to  do  military  duty,  drive 
mules,  carry  loads,  or  in  fact  perform  any  other  act  of  duty  or  bondage 
that  the  will  of  the  commandant  of  the  district,  or  any  passing  military 
tyrant,  chooses  to  ordain.  I  was  myself  eye-witness  of  a  scene  which 
made  my  heart  bleed  for  these  poor  wretches  at  the  same  time  that  it 
excited  my  indignation  and  contempt,  that  they  should  suffer  themselves 
with  arms  in  their  hands  to  be  beaten  and  knocked  about,  by  beings  no 
ways  their  superiors,  unless  a  small  tint  df  complexion  could  be  supposed 
to  give  that  superiority.  Before  we  arrived  at  Santa  Fe,  one  night  we 
rested  near  one  of  the  villages  where  resided  the  families  of  two  of  our 
horsemen.  They  took  the  liberty  to  pay  them  a  visit  in  the  night.  Next 
morning  the  whole  were  called  up,  and  because  they  refused  to  testify 
against  their  imprudent  companions,  several  were  knocked  down  from  their 
horses  by  the  Spanish  dragoons  with  the  butt  end  of  their  lances  ;  yet  with 
the  blood  streaking  down  their  visage,  and  arms  in  their  hands,  they  stood 
cool  and  tranquil  !  not  a  frown,  not  a  word  of  discontent,  or  palliation 
escaped  their  lips.  Yet,  what  must  have  been  the  boiling  indignation  of 
their  souls,  at  the  insults  offered  by  the  wretch,  clothed  with  a  little  brief 
authority  ?  But  the  day  of  retribution  will  come  in  thunder  and  in  ven- 
geance. 

These  savages  are  armed  with  bows  and  arrows,  with  lances  or 
escopates.  Although  they  are  said  to  be  converted  to  Christianity,  they 
still  retain  many  of  their  ancient  superstitious  feasts  and  ceremonies,  one 
of  which  is  so  remarkable,  that  it  must  not  be  passed  unnoticed.     Once  a 


312  GEOGRAPHICAL  OBSERVATIONS  ON 

year  there  is  a  great  festival,  prepared  for  three  successive  days,  which  they 
spend  in  eating,  drinking,  and  dancing  :  near  this  scene  of  amusement  is 
a  dark  cave,  into  which  not  a  glimpse  of  light  can  penetrate,  and  in  which 
are  prepared  places  to  repose  on.  To  this  place  persons  of  both  sexes 
and  of  all  ages,  (after  puberty,)  and  of  all  descriptions,  repair  in  the  night, 
where  there  is  an  indiscriminate  commerce  of  the  votaries,  as  chance,  for- 
tune, and  events  may  direct.  These  revels  certainly  have  great  affinity  to 
some  of  the  ancient  mystic  rites  of  Greece  and  Rome. 

Government  and  Laws. — The  government  of  New  Mexico  may  be 
termed  military  in  the  pure  sense  of  the  word  ;  for  although  they  have 
their  Alcaldes  or  inferior  officers,  their  judgments  are  subject  to  a  rever- 
sion by  the  military  commandants  of  districts.  The  whole  male  population 
is  subject  to  military  duties,  without  pay,  or  emolument,  and  are  obliged 
to  find  their  own  horses,  arms,  and  provisions.  The  only  thing  furnished 
by  their  government  is  ammunition,  and  it  is  extraordinary  with  what  sub- 
ordination they  act,  when  turned  out  on  military  service.  A  strong  proof 
of  this  was  exhibited  in  the  expedition  of  Malgares  to  the  Pawnees ;  his 
command  consisting  of  one  hundred  dragoons  of  the  regular  service,  and 
five  hundred  drafts  from  the  province.  He  had  continued  down  the  Red 
river  until  their  provisions  began  to  be  short ;  they  then  demanded  of  the 
Lieutenant  where  he  was  bound,  and  his  intention..  To  this  he  haughtily 
replied,  "wherever  his  horse  carried  him."  A  few  mornings  after  he  was 
presented  with  a  petition  (signed  by  two  hundred  of  the  militia)  to  return 
home.  He  halted  immediately,  and  caused  his  dragoons  to  erect  a  gallows, 
then  beat  to  arms,  and  the  troops  fell  in  :  he  separated  the  petitioners 
from  the  others,  took  the  man  who  had  presented  him  the  petition,  tied 
him  up,  gave  him  fifty  lashes,  and  threatened  to  put  to  death  on  the  gal- 
lows any  man  who  should  dare  to  murmur.  This  effectually  silenced 
them,  and  quelled  the  rising  spirit  of  sedition.  But  it  was  remarked,  that  it 
was  the  first  instance  of  a  Spaniard  receiving  corporal  punishment  ever 
known  in  the  province. 

Morals,  Manners,  &c. — There  is  nothing  particularly  characteristic  in 
the  inhabitants  of  this  province  that  will  not  be  embraced  in  my  general 
observations  on  New  Spain,  except  that  the  country  being  a  frontier,  and 
the  people  cut  off  as  it  were  from  the  more  populated  parts  of  the  king- 
dom, together  with  their  continual  wars  with  some  one  of  the    savage 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  NEW  SPAIN.  313 

nations  who  surround  them,  render  them  the  bravest,  and  most  hardy  sub- 
jects in  New  Spain  ;  they  are  generally  armed,  and  know  the  use  of  their 
weapons.  Their  want  of  gold  and  silver  renders  them  laborious,  in  order 
that  the  productions  of  their  industry  may  be  the  means  of  establishing  the 
equilibrium  between  them  and  the  other  provinces,  where  those  metals 
abound ;  and  their  isolated  and  remote  situation  causes  them  to  exhibit 
in  a  superior  degree,  the  heaven-like  qualities  of  hospitality  and  kindness, 
in  which  they  appear  to  endeavour  to  fulfil  the  injunctions  of  the  Scripture, 
which  enjoins  us  to  feed  the  hungry,  clothe  the  naked,  and  give  comfort  to 
the  oppressed.  I  shall  always  take  pleasure  in  expressing  my  gratitude 
for  their  noble  reception  of  myself  and  poor  lads. 

Military  Force. — There  is  but  one  troop  of  dragoons  in  all  New 
Mexico,  of  the  regular  force,  which  is  stationed  at  Santa  Y€,  and  is  one 
thousand  strong.  Of  this  the  Governor  is  always  the  captain,  styling  him- 
self captain  of  the  royal  troop  of  Santa  Fe  dragoons  ;  but  they  are  com- 
manded by  a  first  lieutenant,  who  is  captain  by  brevet.  The  men 
capable  of  bearing  arms  may  be  estimated  at  five  thousand,  of  those  prob- 
ably one  thousand  are  completely  armed,  one  thousand  badly,  and  the  rest 
not  at  all. 

Religion. — The  Catholic  religion  is  well  known,  and  with  all  others 
tolerated  in  the  United  States.  It  is  practised  here  after  the  same  manner 
as  in  the  other  provinces,  and  will  be  taken  notice  of  generally  ;  but  it  may 
not  be  impertinent  to  remark,  that  the  clergy  in  this  province  are  much 
more  liberal  than  those  nearer  the  Vice-royalty,  where  the  terrors  of  the 
inquisition  keep  them  in  awe.  In  our  presence  they  and  the  officers  used 
to  laugh  openly  at  the  terror  and  superstition  in  which  the  common  people 
were  held  by  them.  Many  of  them  were  generous  and  friendly,  and  I 
certainly  feel  myself  indebted  to  them  for  their  polite  and  hospitable 
treatment. 

History. — In  the  year  1 594  two  friars  came  out  from  Old  Mexico  to  New 
Mexico,  and  were  well  received  by  the  savages.  They  returned,  and  the 
ensuing  year  Juan  de  Onuate,  a  monk,  went  out  and  explored  the  country. 
On  his  return,  one  thousand  troops  and  five  hundred  men,  women,  and 
children,  came  and  settled  on  the  Rio  del  Norte,  at  no  very  great  distance 
from  where  Santa  Fe  now  stands.  They  entered  into  an  arrangement 
with  the  Indians,  on  the  subject  of  their  establishment;  but  a  few  years 


314  GEOGRAPHICAL  OBSERVATIONS  ON 

after  they  rose  en  masse  and  fell  on  the  new  settlers  by  surprise,  killed 
most  of  the  soldiers,  and  obliged  them  to  retreat  to  the  Passo  del  Norte, 
from  which  circumstance  it  acquired  its  name.  Here  they  waited  a  rein- 
forcement from  Biscay,  which  they  received,  of  seventy  men  and  two  field 
pieces  ;  with  these  they  commenced  their  march  and  finally  arrived  at 
Santa  Fe,  then  the  capital  Indian  village,  which  they  immediately  laid 
siege  to.  The  Indians  maintained  themselves  twenty-two  days,  when  they 
surrendered  and  entered  into  a  second  negotiation.  Since  that  time  the 
inhabitants  have  been  engaged  in  continual  warfare  with  the  various  savage 
tribes,  which  surround  them  on  all  sides,  who  have  been  nearly  ruining 
them  on  several  occasions,  and  have  obliged  them  to  apply  for  reinforce- 
ments from  Biscay  and  Senora. 

A  few  years  since  the  letans  carried  on  a  warm  and  vigorous  war 
against  them,  but  now  are  at  peace,  and  considered  as  their  firmest  allies. 

In  the  historical  anecdotes  of  New  Mexico,  it  may  not  be  improper 
to  record  the  name  of  James  Pursley,  the  first  American  who  ever  pene- 
trated the  immense  wilds  of  Louisiana,  and  shewed  the  Spaniards  of  New 
Mexico,  that  neither  the  savages  who  surround  the  deserts  which  divide 
them  from  the  habitable  world,  nor  the  jealous  tyranny  of  their  rulers,  was 
sufficient  to  prevent  the  enterprising  spirit  of  the  Americans  from 
penetrating  the  arcanum  of  their  rich  establishments  in  the  New  World. 
Pursley  was  from  near  Baird's  Town,  Kentucky,  which  he  had  left  in  1799. 
In  1802,  with  two  companions,  he  left  St.  Louis  and  travelled  west  on 
the  head  of  the  Osage  river,  where  they  made  a  hunt ;  from  thence  they 
struck  for  the  White  river  of  the  Arkansaw,  and  intended  to  descend  it  to 
Orleans,  but  while  making  preparations  the  Kanses  stole  their  horses : 
having  secured  their  peltries  they  pursued  them  into  the  village.  The 
horses  were  there,  but  the  Indians  refused  to  give  them  up:  Pursley  saw 
his  horse  with  an  Indian  on  him  going  to  the  water  at  the  edge  of  the 
town.  He  pursued  him,  and  with  his  knife  ripped  open  the  horse's  bowels. 
The  Indian  returned  to  the  village,  got  his  gun  and  came  and  snapped  it 
at  Pursley,  who  followed  him  into  the  village  with  his  knife:  the  Indian 
took  refuge  in  a  lodge  surrounded  by  women  and  children.  This  conduct 
•struck  the  chiefs  with  astonishment,  and  admiration  of  the  "mad  Ameri- 
cans," as  they  termed  them,  and  they  returned  the  other  horses 
to  the  hunters.     Pursley  and  his  companions  now  returned  to  the  place 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  NEW  SPAIN.  315 

■where  they  had  buried  their  peltries,  and  determined  to  pursue  the  route 
by  land  to  St.  Louis ;  but  some  persons  stole  their  horses  a  second  time, 
when  they  were  no  great  distance  from  the  Osage  river,  on  which  they 
formed  a  rough  canoe  and  descended  that  stream,  nearly  to  its  junction 
with  the  Missouri.  Here  they  overset  their  canoe  and  lost  their  whole 
year's  hunt,  but. saved  their  arms  and  ammunition,  which  are  always  the 

primary  objects  in  a  desert.     On  the  Missouri  they  met   Monsieur 

in  his  barge,  bound  to  the  Mandanes.  Pursley  embarked  with  him  for  the 
voyage ;  his  two  companions  preferred  returning  to  their  homes.  On  the 
arrival  of  the  former  at  the  point  of  destination,  his  employer  despatched 
him  on  a  hunting  and  trading  tour,  with  some  bands  of  the  Paducas  and 
Kyaways,  with  a  small  quantity  of  merchandize.  In  the  ensuing  spring 
they  were  driven  by  the  Sioux  from  the  plains  into  the  mountains  which 
give  rise  to  the  Plate,  Arkansaw,  &c.,  and  it  was  their  sign  which  wesaw  in 
such  amazing  abundance  on  the  head  waters  of  the  Plate,  their  party 
consisting  of  nearly  two  thousand  souls  with  ten  thousand  beasts.  The 
Indians  knowing  they  were  approximate  to  New  Mexico,  determined  to 
send  Pursley  with  his  companions  and  two  of  their  body  into  Santa  Fe,  to 
know  of  the  Spaniards  if  they  would  receive  them  amicably,  and  enter  into 
a  trade  with  them.  This  being  acceded  to  by  the  Governor  (Allencaster) 
the  Indian  deputies  returned  for  their  bands;  but  Pursley  thought  proper 
to  remain  with  a  civilized  people,  among  whom  a  fortuitous  event  had 
thrown  him,  a  circumstance  which  he  assured  me  lie  had  at  one  time  entirely 
despaired  of.  He  arrived  at  Santa  Fe  June,  1805,  ^^'^  hs-d  been  follow- 
ing his  trade  (a  carpenter)  ever  since,  at  which  he  made  a  great  deal 
of  money,  except  when  working  for  the  officers,  who  paid  him  little  or 
nothing.  He  was  a  man  of  strong  natural  sense,  and  of  undaunted 
intrepidity ;  and  entertained  me  with  numerous  interesting  anecdotes  of 
his  adventures  with  the  Indians,  and  of  the  jealousy  of  the  Spanish 
government.  He  was  once  nearly  being  hanged  for  making  a  few  pounds 
of  powder,  which  he  innocently  did,  as  he  was  accustomed  to  do  in 
Kentucky,  but  which  is  a  capital  crime  in  these  provinces.  He  still 
retained  his  gun,  which  he  had  with  him  during  his  whole  tour,  and 
spoke  confidently  that  if  he  had  two  hours'  start,  not  all  the  province 
could  take  him.  He  was  forbidden  to  write,  but  was  assured  he  should 
have  a  passport  whenever  demanded  ;  he  was  obliged,  however,  to  give 


3i6  GEOGRAPHICAL  OBSERVATIONS  ON 

security  that  he  would  not  leave  the  country  without  the  permission  of 
the  government.  I  brought  letters  out  for  him.  He  assured  me  that 
he  had  found  gold  on  the  head  of  the  Plate,  and  had  carried  some  of 
the  virgin  mineral  in  his  shot  pouch  for  months,  but  that  being  in  doubt 
whether  he  should  ever  again  behold  the  civilized  world,  and  losing  in 
his  mind  all  the  ideal  value  which  mankind  have  stamped  on  that  metal, 
he  threw  his  sample  away;  that  he  had  imprudently  mentioned  it  to 
the  Spaniards,  who  had  frequently  solicited  him  to  go  and  shew  a 
detachment  of  cavalry  the  place,  but  conceiving  it  to  be  in  our  territory 
he  had  refused,  and  was  fearful  that  the  circumstance  might  create  a 
great  obstacle  to  his  leaving  the  country. 

Biscay  lies  between  24°  and  33"  N.  latitude,  and  105°  and  iii** 
W.  longitude ;  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  New  Mexico,  on  the  wc=<- 
by  Senora  and  Sinaloa,  and  on  the  .east  by  New  Leon  and  Cogquilla. 
It  is  six  hundred  miles  in  length,  from  north-west  to  south-east,  and  four 
hundred  miles  in  width  from  east  to  west,  taking  it  at  its  greatest  extent. 

Air  and  Climate. — The  air  is  dry,  and  the  heat  very  great  at  that 
time  of  the  year  which  precedes  the  rainy  season,  which  commences  in 
June,  and  continues  until  September  by  light  showers;  during  the  other 
part  of  the  year  there  is  not  the  least  rain  or  snow  to  moisten  the 
earth.  The  atmosphere  had  therefore  become  so  electrified,  that  when 
we  halted  at  night,  in  taking  off  our  blankets,  the  electric  fluid  would 
almost  cover  them  with  sparks  ;  and  in  Chihuahua  we  prepared  a  bottle 
with  gold  leaf  as  a  receiver,  and  collected  sufficient  fluid  from  a  bear  skin 
to  give  a  considerable  shock  to  a  number  of  persons.  This  phenomenon 
v.'as  more  conspicuous  in  the  vicinity  of  Chihuahua  than  in  any  other  part 
that  we  crossed. 

Mines  and  Minerals. — This  province  abounds  in  gold  and  silver  mines, 
which  yield  an  immense  quantity  of  those  metals,  but  not  so  great  a  revenue 
to  the  King  as  those  which  are  nearer  the  mint,  and  consequently  present  a 
greater  facility  to  coinage.  I  am  not  acquainted  with  the  proportion  of 
the  metals  which  the  mineral  yields  in  any  instance,  except  in  one  of  the 
silver  mines  at  Chihuahua,  which  belonged  to  a  friend  of  mine,  who 
informed  me  that  his  mine  yielded  him  thirteen  and  a  half  dollars  per 
hundred  weight.  I  went  one  day,  accompanied  by  Robinson,  through 
many  of  these  furnaces,  and  noticed  the  method  they  pursued  in  analyzing 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  NEW  SPAIN.  317 

the  mineral  and  extracting  the  metals.  But  as  I  had  previously  asked 
several  Spanish  officers  to  accompany  me,  who  had  always  declined  or 
deferred  the  thing  to  a  future  period,  I  conceived  it  probable  it  was  too 
delicate  a  subject  to  make  a  minute  inquiry  into.  I  so  far  observed  the 
process,  however,  as  to  learn,  that  the  mineral  was  brought  to  the  furnace 
from  the  mines  in  bags  on  mules,  it  was  then  ground  or  pounded  into 
small  lumps,  not  larger  than  the  size  of  a  nut,  and  precipitated  into  water 
(in  a  sieve  which  permitted  the  smaller  particles  to  escape  into  a  tub) 
through  several  progressive  operations ;  from  the  small  particles  which 
remained  at  the  bottom  of  the  tub  after  it  had  been  purified  by  the  earthy 
particles,  there  was  a  proportoin  of  metal  extracted  by  a  nicer  process,  but 
the  larger  parts  were  put  into  a  furnace,  similar  to  our  iron  furnaces, 
and  when  it  was  in  a  state  of  fusion  was  let  out  into  a  bed  of  sand 
prepared  for  it,  formed  to  make  bars  about  the  size  of  our  common 
pig  iron  ;  average  in  value  about  two  thousand  five  hundred  dollars. 
The  gold  was  drawn  out  into  a  mould  similar  to  a  bowl,  and  the  pieces 
were  stamped  (as  was  each  bar  of  silver)  by  the  King's  essayer  of  metals, 
with  its  value;  being  from  eight  to  ten  thousand  dollars ;  they  are  then 
received  into  the  King's  treasury  in  payment,  and  in  fact  have  a  currency 
through  the  .kingdom.  There  are  vast  speculations  made  on  the  coinage. 
As  people  who  have  not  large  capitals  prefer  selling  their  bullion  in  the 
internal  provinces  at  a  considerable  discount,  to  being  obliged  to  transport 

it  to  Mexico,  in  order  to  convert  it  into  specie.     The  present  C 

(I  was  informed)  was  engaged  in  that  traffic,  on  which  from  the  Province 
of  Senora  he  sometimes  made  twenty-five  per  cent.  But  numbers  of  the 
proprietors  who  have  no  immediate  use  for  their  bullion,  put  it  in  their 
cellars,  where  it  remains  piled  up  to  their  posterity,  of  no  service  to  them- 
selves or  to  the  community.  There  are  at  Chihuahua  and  its  vicinity  fifteen 
mines,  thirteen  of  silver,  one  of  gold,  and  one  of  copper,  the  furnaces  for  all  of 
which  are  situated  round  the  town  in  the  suburbs,  and  present,  except  on 
Sundays,  volumes  of  smoke  arising  in  every  direction  ;  which  are  seen  from 
a  distance  long  before  the  spires  of  the  city  strike  the  view.  It  is  incredible 
the  quantity  of  cinders  that  surround  the  city,  in  piles  ten  or  fifteen  feet  high. 
Next  the  creek  they  have  formed  a  bank  of  them  to  check  the  encroachments 
of  the  stream,  and  it  has  presented  an  effectual  barrier.  I  am  told  that  a 
European  employed  some  hands,  and  wrought  at  the  cinders,  and  that  they 


3i8  GEOGRAPHICAL  OBSERVATIONS  ON 

yielded  one  dollar  twenty-five  cents  for  each  per  day,  but  this  not  answering 
his  expectations,  he  ceased  his  proceedings.  At  Mauperne  there  are  one 
gold  and  seven  silver  mines. 

At  Durango  there  are  many  and  rich  mines,  but  I  am  unable  to 
state  the  number.  There  are  also  gold  mines  in  the  Sierra  Madre,  near 
Alomas,  and  many  others  of  which  I  have  no  knowledge.  There  is  like- 
wise in  the  province,  about  one  hundred  miles  south  of  Chihuahua,  a  moun- 
tain or  hill  of  loadstone.  Walker,  who  had  been  on  the  ground  and 
surveyed  it,  informed  ftie,  it  appeared  to  be  a  solid  stratum  as  regular 
as  that  of  limestone,  or  any  other  of  the  species.  He  had  brought 
home  a  square  piece  of  near  one  and  a  half  foot,  and  was  preparing 
some  to  be  sent  to  Spain,  and  likewise  forming  magnets  to  accompany 
it,  in  order  that  their  comparative  strength  might  be  ascertained  with 
magnets  formed  in  Europe. 

Rivers. — The  Conchos  is  the  largest  in  the  province.  It  takes  its 
source  in  the  Sierra  Madre,  near  Batopilis  in  28°  N.  latitude,  and  dis- 
charges itself  in  the  Rio  del  Norte  in  latitude  31°,  after  a  course  of  about 
three  hundred  miles.  It  is  the  largest  western  branch  of  the  Rio  del 
Norte,  and  receives  in  its  course  the  Rio  Florida  from  the  east,  and  St. 
Paubla  from  the  west.  Where  we  struck  the  Conchos,  it  appeared  to  be 
nearly  as  large  as  the  Rio  del  Norte  at  the  Passo.  The  Rio  San  Pau- 
bla is  the  largest  western  branch  of  the  Conchos,  and  heads  in  28°  50' 
N.  latitude,  and  empties  into  the  latter  at  Bakinao ;  its  whole  course  is 
about  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  in  summer  nearly  dry,  and  in  the  rainy 
season  impassable.  The  Rio  Florida  takes  its  rise  in  latitude  26°  30' 
north,  and  after  a  course  of  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  dis- 
charges itself  into  the  Conchos.  Guaxequillo  is  situated  on  its  eastern 
bank  about  midway.  The  Rio  Nasas  is  in  part  the  line  between  Bis- 
cay and  Cogquilla;  it ruHs  north  and  empties  into  the  lake  of  Cayman; 
it  is  nearly  dry  in  the  summer  season,  but  at  some  periods  impassable. 

Lakes. — Lake  Cayman  and  Lake  Parras  are  two  small  lakes  sit- 
uated at  the  foot  of  the  mountains,  and  are  full  of  fish. 

Animals,  Insects,  &c. — There  are  some  few  bears,  deer,  and  wild 
horses,  but  not  in  abundance.  The  scorpions  of  Durango  exhibit  the 
most  remarkable  instance  of  the  physical  effects  of  climate  or  air  that 
I  ever  heard  related.     They  come  out  of  the  walls  and  crevices  in  May 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  NEW  SPAIN.  319 

and  continue  about  a  fortnight  in  such  numbers  that  the  inhabitants 
never  walk  in  their  houses  after  dark  without  a  light,  and  always  shift  or 
examine  the  bed  clothes,  and  beat  the  curtains  previous  to  going  to  rest ; 
after  which  the  curtains  are  secured  under  the  bed.  The  precautions 
are  similar  to  those  we  take  with  our  moschetto  curtains.  The  bite  of 
these  scorpions  has  been  known  to  prove  mortal  in  two  hours.  But  the 
most  extraordinary  circumstance  is,  that  by  taking  them  ten  leagues  from 
Durango  they  become  perfectly  harmless,  and  lose  all  their  venomous 
qualities.     Query,  does  this  arise  from  a  change  of  air  or  of  sustenance  ? 

Population  of  Chief  Towns. — The  population  of  Biscay  may  be  esti- 
mated at  two  hundred  thousand  ;*  of  this  three-twentieths  may  be  Span- 
iards from  Europe,  five-twentieths  Creoles,  five-twentieths  Mestis  and 
Quatroons,  and  seven-twentieths  Indians.  Durango  was  founded  in  1550. 
It  is  the  principal  city,  and  the  seat  of  government  for  the  Province  of 
Biscay,  and  of  the  Bishop  of  Durango.  Its  population  may  be  estimated 
at  forty  thousand  souls.f  It  is  situated  in  25°  N.  latitude,  and  107° 
W.  longitude. 

Pallalein,  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  Sierra  Madrd,  is  supposed  to  con- 
tain twenty-five  thousand  souls. 

Chihuahua,  the  place  of  residence  of  the  Commandant  General  of  the 
internal  provinces,  was  founded  in  1691,  and  is  situated  in  29°  N.  latitude,  and 
107°  30'  W.  longitude.  Its  population  may  be  estimated  at  seven  thousand;^ 
it  is  of  an  oblong  rectangular  form,  on  the  eastern  side  of  a  small  stream, 
which  discharges  itself  into  the  river  Conchos.  On  its  southern  extremity 
is  a  small  but  elegant  church.  In  the  public  square  stands  the  church,  the 
royal  treasury,  the  town  house,  and  the  richest  shops.  At  the  western 
extremity  another  church,  for  the  military  ;  a  superb  hospital,  belonging  for- 
merly to  the  Jesuits'  possessions;  the  church  of  the  Monks  of  St.  Francis  and 
St.  Domingo  ;  the  military  academy  and  Quartel  del  Tropa.  On  the  north- 
west were  two  or  three  missions,  very  handsomely  situated  on  a  small  stream, 
which  comes  in  from  the  west.  About  one  mile  to  the  south  of  the  town 
is  a  large  aqueduct,  which  conveys  the  water  round  it,  to  the  east,  into  the 

*  According  to  Humboldt,  one  hundred  and  fifty-nine  thousand  seven  hundred. 
Pol.  Ess.  Vol.  ii.  p.  286.     E. 

f  Twelve  thousand,  Humb.  Ubi.  Supra,  p.  293.     E. 
J  Eleven  thousand  six  hundred.     Ibid.  p.  293.     E, 


320  GEOGRAPHICAL  OBSERVATIONS  ON 

main  stream  below  the  town,  at  the  centre  of  which  is  seated  a  reservoir, 
from  whence  the  water  is  conducted  by  pipes  to  the  different  parts  of  the 
city  ;  and  in  the  pubHc  square  is  to  be  a  fountain,  andjei  cTeau,  which  will 
be  both  ornamental  and  useful.  The  principal  church  at  Chihuahua  was 
the  most  superb  building  we  saw  in  New  Spain.  Its  whole  front  being 
covered  with  statues  of  the  apostles,  and  the  different  saints,  set  in  nitches 
of  the  wall,  and  the  windows,  doors,  &c.,  ornamented  with  sculpture.  I 
never  was  within  the  doors,  but  was  informed  by  Robinson,  that  the  deco- 
rations were  immensely  rich.  Some  men  whom  we  supposed  entitled  to 
credit,  informed  us  that  the  church  was  built  by  a  tax  of  twelve  and  a  half 
cents  laid  on  each  ingot  of  gold,  or  silver,  taken  out  of  the  mines  in  the 

vicinity  in years.     Its  cost,  including  the  decorations,  was  one  million 

five  hundred  thousand  dollars,  and  when  it  was  finished,  there  remained 
three  hundred  thousand  dollars  of  the  fund  unappropriated.  On  the  south 
side  of  Chihuahua  is  the  public  walk,  formed  by  three  rows  of  trees,  whose 
branches  nearly  form  a  junction  over  the  heads  of  the  passengers  below. 
At  different  distances  there  are  seats  for  persons  to  repose  themselves 
on  ;  at  each  end  of  the  walks  there  were  circular  seats  on  which  (in 
the  evening)  the  company  collected,  and  amused  themselves  with  the 
guitar,  and  songs  in  Spanish,  Italian,  and  French,  adapted  to  the  volup- 
tuous manners  of  the  country.  In  this  city,  as  well  as  in  all  others  of 
any  consideration,  there  are  patroles  of  soldiers  during  the  night,  who 
stop  every  person  at  nine  o'clock  and  examine  them.  My  countersign 
was  "  Americans." 

Trade,  Commerce,  and  Manufactures, — Biscay  trades  with  North 
Mexico,  Senora,  and  the  Vice-royalty  ;  from  the  latter  of  which  they  bring 
on  mules  all  their  dry  goods,  European  furniture,  books,  ammunition,  &c. 
They  furnish  a  great  number  of  horses,  mules,  sheep,  beeves,  goats,  &c.,  to 
the  more  populous  parts  of  the  kingdom,  which  have  less  spare  ground  for 
pasturage.  Some  persons  make  large  fortunes  by  being  the  carriers  from 
Mexico  to  Chihuahua,  the  freight  being  eight  dollars  per  cent,  and  they 
generally  put  three  hundred  pounds  on  each  mule.  The  merchants  make 
their  remittances  twice  a  year  in  bullion.  Goods  sell  at  Chihuahua  about 
two  hundred  per  cent,  above  the  prices  of  our  Atlantic  sea-port  towns. 
Their  horses  average  at  six  dollars,  but  some  have  been  sold  for  one  hun- 
dred, their  trained  mules  at  twenty  dollars ;  but  extraordinary  matches  for 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  NEW  SPAIN.  321 

carriages  have  sold  for  four  hundred  dollars  a  pair.  Rice  sells  for  four 
dollars  per  hundred  weight.  They  manufacture  some  few  arms,  blankets, 
stamp  leather,  embroider)^  coarse  cotton,  and  woollen  cloths,  and  a  species 
of  carpetting.  Their  blankets  average  at  two  dollars,  but  some  sell  as  high 
as  twenty-five  dollars. 

Agriculture. — They  cultivate  wheat,  corn,  rice,  oats,  cotton,  flax, 
indigo,  and  vines.  What  I  have  said  relative  to  the  cultivation  of  these 
articles  in  New  Mexico  will  equally  apply  to  this  province  ;  but  it  may  be 
proper  to  observe  here,  that  one  of  Nolan's  men  constructed  the  first  cot- 
ton gin  they  ever  had  in  the  province,  and  that  Walker  had  caused  a  few 
churns  to  be  made  for  some  private  families,  and  taught  them  the  use  of 
them. 

Timber,  Plains,  and  Soil. — To  the  north  of  Chihuahua,  about  thirty 
miles  to  the  right  of  the  main  road,  there  is  some  pine  timber,  and  at  a 
spring  on  this  side  of  Carracal  we  saw  one  walnut  tree,  and  on  all  the  small 
streams  there  are  shrubby  cotton  trees  :  with  these  few  exceptions,  the 
whole  province  is  a  naked,  barren  plain,  which  presents  to  the  eye  an  arid 
unproductive  soil ;  and  more  especially  in  the  neighbourhood  of  mines, 
even  the  herbage  appears  to  be  poisoned  by  the  qualities  of  the  land. 

Antiquities. — There  are  none  in  the  province  which  came  within  my 
notice,  except  the  Jesuit  college  and  the  church  at  Chihuahua,  which  were 
about  one  century  old,  and  are  used  as  hospitals.  In  these  there  was 
nothing  peculiar  except  a  certain  solidity  and  strength,  which  appeared  to 
surpass  the  other  public  buildings  of  the  city. 

Aborigines. — There  are  no  uncivilized  savages  in  this  province,  except 
the  Apaches,  of  whom  I  have  already  spoken  largely.  The  Christian 
Indians  are  so  incorporated  amongst  the  lower  grades  of  Mestis  that 
it  is  scarcely  possible  to  draw  the  line  of  distinction,  except  at  the 
ranches  of  some  nobleman  or  large  land-holder,  where  they  are  in  a 
state  of  vassalage.  This  class  of  people  laid  a  conspiracy,  which  was 
so  well  concerted  as  to  baffle  the  research  of  the  Spaniards  for  a  length 
of  time,  and  to  occasion  them  the  loss  of  several  hundreds  of  the  inhabi- 
tants. The  Indians  used  to  go  out  from  their  villages  in  small  parties ; 
in  a  short  time  a  part  would  return,  with  the  report  that  they  had  been 
attacked  by  the  Indians.  The  Spaniards  would  immediately  send  out  a 
detachment  in  pursuit,  when  they  were  led  into  an  ambuscade,  and  every 


322  GEOGRAPHICAL  OBSERVATIONS  ON 

soul  cut  off.  They  pursued  this  course  so  long  that  the  whole  province 
became  alarmed  at  the  rapid  manner  in  which  their  enemies  multiplied  ; 
but  some  circumstances  leading  to  a  suspicion,  they  made  use  of  the  super- 
stition of  these  people,  for  their  ruin.  Some  officers  disguised  themselves 
like  friars  and  went  round  amongst  the  Indians,  pretending  to  be  possessed 
of  the  spirit  of  prophecy.  They  preached  up  to  them,  that  the  day  was 
approaching  when  a  general  deliverance  from  the  Spanish  tyranny  was 
about  to  take  place,  and  invited  the  Indians  to  join  in  promoting  with  them 
the  work  of  God.  The  poor  creatures  came  forward,  and  in  their  confes- 
sions stated  the  great  hand  that  had  already  been  put  to  the  work.  After 
they  had  ascertained  the  nature  and  extent  of  the  conspiracy,  and  obtained 
a  body  of  troops,  they  commenced  the  execution  and  put  to  death  about 
four  hundred  of  them.  This  struck  terror  and  dismay  through  the  Indian 
villages,  and  they  dared  not  rise  to  support  their  freedom  and  independ- 
ence. 

Government  and  Laws. — In  this  province  there  is  some  shadow  of 
civil  law,  but  it  is  vterely  a  shadow,  as  the  following  anecdotes  may  illus- 
trate. An  officer,  on  arriving  at  a  village,  demanded  quarters  for  himself 
and  troops.  The  supreme  civil  officer  of  the  place  sent  him  word  that  he 
must  shew  his  pass-port.  The  military  officer  immediately  sent  a  file  of 
men,  who  brought  the  judge  a  prisoner  before  him,  when  he  severely  rep- 
rimanded the  magistrate  for  his  insolence,  and  obliged  him  to  obey  his 
orders  instantly.  This  has  been  done  by  a  subaltern,  in  a  city  of  twenty 
thousand  inhabitants.  The  only  laws  which  can  be  said  to  be  in  force,  are 
the  military  and  ecclesiastical,  between  which  there  is  a  perfect  understand- 
ing. The  Governor  is  a  brigadier-general,  residing  at  Durango,  and 
receives  five  thousand  dollars  in  addition  to  his  pay  in  the  line.  At  the 
same  time  it  is  but  proper  to  observe  that  there  are  ordinances  to  bear  on 
each  subject  of  civil  discussion,  but  they  are  so  corrupt,  that  the  influence 
of  family  and  fortune  generally  has  right  on  its  side.  In  each  town  is  a 
public  magazine  for  provision,  where  every  farmer  brings  his  grain  and 
produce  which  he  may  have  for  sale,  when  he  is  sure  to  meet  with  a  mar- 
ket, and  should  there  be  a  scarcity  the  ensuing  year,  it  is  retailed  out  to 
the  inhabitants  at  a  reasonable  rate  :  to  this  place  all  the  citizens  of  the 
town  repair  to  purchase. 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  NEW  SPAIN  323 

Morals,  Manners,  <5fc. — There  is  nothing  peculiar  in  the  manners  or 
morals  of  the  people  of  this  province,  but  a  much  greater  degree  of  luxury 
among  the  rich,  and  misery  among  the  poor,  and  corruption  of  morals 
more  generally  than  in  New  Mexico.  As  to  military  spirit  they  have  none  ; 
at  a  muster  of  a  regiment  of  militia  at  Chihuahua,  one  of  my  men  attended, 
and  informed  me  that  there  were  about  twenty-five  who  had  fire-arms  and 
lances,  fifty  with  bows  and  arrows  and  lances,  and  the  remainder  with 
lances,  or  bows  and  arrows  only. 

Military  Force. — The  regular  military  force  of  Biscay  consists  of  one 
thousand  one  hundred  dragoons,  distributed  as  follows :  On  the  frontiers 
of  the  deserts  of  New  Mexico  and  Senora,  at  the  forts  of  Elisiaira,  Carra- 
cal,  and  St.  Buenaventura,  Presidio  del  Norte  Janos,  Tulinos,  and  St.  Juan 
Baptist.  Farther  south  are  Chihuahua,  Jeronime,  Cayone,  St.  Paubla, 
Guaxequillo,  and  Conchos,  with  several  other  places,  which  are  dependencies 
on  these  possessions.  The  complement  of  each  of  those  posts  is  one  hundred 
and  fifty  men,  but  may  be  averaged  at  one  thousand  one  hundred  in  all ; 
say  one  hundred  at  each  post.  The  militia  are  not  worthy  particular 
notice. 

Religion  —  Biscay  is  in  the  diocese  of  Durango,  the  Bishop's 
salary  being  estimated  at  one  hundred  thousand  dollars  per  annum.  The 
Catholic  religion  is  here  in  its  full  force,  but  the  inferior  clergy  are  much 
dissatisfied.  The  people's  superstition  is  so  great  that  they  are  running 
after  the  Holy  Father  in  the  streets,  and  endeavouring  to  kiss  the  hem 
of  his  garment ;  and  should  the  Bishop  be  passing  the  street  all  kneel, 
whether  rich  or  poor. 

History.  I  shall  not  presume  to  say  anything  on  this  subject,  except 
that  I  believe  this  province  has  been  populated  about  two  hundred 
and  seventy  years. 

Senora  lies  between  the  27°  and  33°  N.  latitude  110°  and  1 1  7°  W. 
longitude  from  Paris ;  its  greatest  length  from  north  to  south  being  about 
four  hundred  and  twenty,  and  its  width  from  east  to  west  three  hundred  and 
eighty  miles.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  New  Mexico,  on  the  west  by 
California,  on  the  south  by  Sinaloa  and  the  Gulph,  on  the  fast  by  Biscay 
and  New  Mexico. 

Air  and  Climate. — Dry,  pure,  and  healthy  generally ;  but  near  the 
Gulph  the  ground  is  marshy,  and  it  is  in  some  of  the  districts  unhealthy. 


324  GEOGRAPHICAL   OBSERVATIONS  ON 

Mines,  Minerals  and  Fossils. — On  these  subjects  I  can  only  speak  in 
general.  It  abounds  in  rich  gold  and  silver  mines,  but  more  especially  the 
former,  in  as  much  as  the  gold  does  not  preserve  its  usual  exchange  with 
silver  in  that  province.  General  Salcedo  told  me  that  in  this  province, 
the  largest  piece  of  pure  gold  had  been  found,  ever  yet  discovered  in  New- 
Spain,  and  it  had  been  sent  to  the  King  to  be  put  in  his  cabinet  of 
curiosities. 

Rivers. — Rio  de  la  Ascencion  is  a  short  river  which  enters  the  Gulph 
of  California,  about  the  31°  N.  latitude.  Rio  Yaqui  heads  on  the  borders 
of  Biscay  and  Senora,  and  discharges  itself  in  the  Gulph  of  California  at 
Guaymas,  at  28°  the  N.  latitude. 

Timber,  Plains,  and  Soil. — This  province  is  like  Biscay,  destitute  of 
timber,  but  has  some  rich  soil  near  the  sea. 

Animals. — There  are  deer,  cabrie,  and  bear :  there  are  also  remark- 
ably large  Guana  lizards,  which  are  said  to  weigh  ten  pounds,  and  are 
perfectly  harmless ;  they  are  tamed  by  the  inhabitants  and  trained  to  catch 
mice. 

Population  and  Chief  Towns. — The  population  of  Senora  may  be 
estimated  at  two  hundred  thousand  souls,  of  which  three-twentieths  prob- 
ably are  Spaniards,  four-twentieths  Creoles,  six-twentieths  Mestis,  and 
seven-twentieths  Indians.  Arispe,  the  capital  of  Senora,  and  until  twenty 
years  past  the  seat  of  government  of  the  internal  provinces,  is  situated  in 
31°  N.  latitude,  and  111°  W.  longitude,  near  the  head  of  the  river 
Yaqui.  It  is  celebrated  throughout  the  kingdom  for  the  vast  quantity  of 
gold  table  utensils  made  use  of  in  the  houses,  and  for  the  urbanity  and 
hospitality  of  the  inhabitants.  Its  population  is  three  thousand  four 
hundred  souls.* 

Senora  and  Terrenate  are  the  next  cities  in  magnitude  in  the  prov- 
ince, the  latter  to  the  north,  the  former  to  the  south  of  the  capital. 

Trade  and  Commerce. — Senora  trades  with  New  Mexico  and  Biscay 
for  the  productions  of  those  provinces,  and  with  Old  Mexico,  both  by  land 
and  sea,  through  the  Gulph  of  California.  It  is  celebrated  for  cheese, 
horses  and  sheep. 

*  The  Province  of  Senora,  one  hundred  and  twenty-one  thousand  four  hundred; 
the  Arispe,  seven  thousand  six  hundred;  Senora,  six  thousand  four  hundred.  Humb. 
Vol.  ii.  pp.  296  and  305.     E. 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  NEW  SPAIN.  325 

Agriculture. — They  cultivate  the  same  articles  as  in  Biscay. 

Aborigines — There  are  a  number  of  savage  nations  bordering  on 
Senora,  which  oblige  the  King  to  keep  up  a  number  of  military  posts  on 
the  northern  and  western  frontiers.  But  the  names  of  the  tribes,  as  to 
any  of  their  distinguished  characters,  I  am  unacquainted  with ;  however  it 
may  not  be  improper  to  observe,  that  they  are  armed  with  bows,  arrows, 
shield  and  lance,  like  their  savage  neighbours.  The  civilized  Indians  are 
in  the  same  situation  as  in  the  other  provinces. 

Government  and  Laws. — Similar  to  those  of  Biscay ;  the  Governor 
being  a  brigadier-general,  receiving  seven  thousand  dollars,  in  addition  to 
his  pay  in  the  line. 

Morals  and  Manners. — In  every  respect  similar  to  those  of  Biscay, 
except  that  they  are  more  celebrated  for  hospitality. 

Military  Force. — The  regular  military  force  of  this  province  consists 
of  nine  hundred  dragoons,  and  two  hundred  infantry,  stationed  as  fol- 
lows : — At  Tubson,  St.  Cruz,  Tubac,  and  Altac  on  the  north,  with  one 
hundred  dragoons  each  for  a  garrison.  Fiuteras,  Bacuachi,  Bavispa,  and 
Horcasitas,  in  the  centre  with  three  hundred  dragoons  and  two  hundred 
infantry  ;  Buenavista  on  the  south  with  one  hundred  dragoons  as  a  gar- 
rison. The  infantry  mentioned  above  are  a  nation  of  Indians,  called  the 
Opejas,  and  are  said  to  be  the  best  soldiers  in  New  Spain.  I  saw  a 
detachment  of  them  at  Chihuahua,  who  appeared  to  be  fine,  stout,  ath- 
letic men,  and  were  the  most  subordinate  and  faithful  troops  I  ever  knew, 
acting  like  a  band  of  brothers,  and  having  the  greatest  attachment  for 
their  ofificers. 

Religion. — Catholic,  in  the  Diocese  of  Durango. 

History. — I  am  unacquainted  with  its  history,  except  that  the  seat  of 
government  of  the  internal  provinces  was  formerly  at  Arispe,  at  which 
time  the  government  of  California  was  also  under  the  Captain-Generalship 
of  the  internal  provinces.  But  the  removal  of  the  seat  of  government  to 
Chihuahua,  and  the  disjunct  situation  of  California,  induced  His  Majesty 
to  annex  it  to  the  Vice-Royalty.  The  increasing  magnitude  of  the  relations 
of  New  Spain  with  the  United  States,  gave  likewise  an  importance  to  the 
eastern  interests,  which  induced  the  continuance  of  the  seat  of  govern- 
ment at  Chihuahua. 


326  GEOGRAPHICAL  OBSERVATIONS  ON 

SiNALOA  lies  between  the  23"  and  28°  N.  latitude,  and  108°  and 
111°  W.  longitude,  and  is  bordered  on  the  north  by  Senora  and  Biscay, 
on  the  east  by  the  latter,  on  the  south  by  the  Administration  of  Guadal- 
axara,  and  on  the  west  by  the  Gulph  of  California.  Its  greatest  length  is 
three  hundred  miles  north  and  south,  and  in  width  from  east  to  west  one 
hundred  and  fifty  miles. 

Air  and  Climate. — On  the  sea  coast  humid,  but  back  dry  and  pure. 

Mines,  Minerals,  and  Fossils. — There  are  both  gold  and  silver  mines, 
but  with  their  relative  value  or  productions  I  am  unacquainted. 

Rivers. — Rio  Fuerte  takes  its  source  in  27°  N.  latitude,  and  110° 
W.  longitude,  and  disembogues  itself  into  the  Gulph  of  California.  It 
crosses  the  whole  province,  and  is  nearly  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  long. 
Rio  Culican  is  not  more  than  fifty  miles  in  length,  and  enters  the  Gulph  of 
California  in  25°  N.  latitude. 

Timber,  Plains,  and  Soil. — No  timber;  soil  similar  to  Senora. 

Animals. — Domestic  only. 

Population  and  Chief  Towns. — Its  population  may  be  estimated  at 
sixty  thousand,  not  more  than  three-twentieths  of  whom  are  Spaniards,  the 
remainder  Creoles,  Mestis,  and  Indians.  Sinaloa  is  the  capital,  but  its 
population,  extent,  &c.,  are  to  me  unknown. 

Agrictilture. — The  same  as  Senora. 

Aborigines. — None  who  are  not  civilized. 

Military  Force. — One  hundred  dragoons  for  expresses,  and  the  guard 
of  the  Governor. 

Religion. — Catholic  ;  in  the  diocese  of  the  Bishop  of  Durango. 

The  Province  of  Cogquilla  lies  between  the  23°  and  31°  30'  N. 
latitude,  and  101°  and  105°  W.  longitude;  its  greatest  length  north  and 
south  may  be  five  hundred  miles,  and  in  its  greatest  width  east  and  west  two 
hundred  miles.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  New  Mexico  and  Texas, 
on  the  east  by  the  latter,  St.  Ander  and  New  Leon,  on  the  south  by  the 
Administration  of  Zacatecas,  and  on  the  west  by  Biscay. 

Air  and  Climate. — Pure  and  healthy,  except  about  the  middle  of 
May,  when  the  heat  is  intense,  and  sometimes  a  scorching  wind  is  felt  like 
the  flame  issuing  from  an  oven  or  furnace,  which  frequently  skins  the  face 
and  affects  the  eyes.  This  phenomenon  is  felt  more  sensibly  about  the 
setting  of  the  sun  than  at  any  other  period  of  the  twenty-four  hours. 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  NEW  SPAIN.  327 

Mines,  Minerals,  and  Fossils. — I  know  of  no  mines  in  this  province 
except  at  Montelovez,  and  Sta.  Rosa ;  the  value  of  either  of  which  I  am 
unacquainted  with  ;  but  those  of  Sta.  Rosa  are  reputed  to  be  as  rich  as 
any  silver  mines  in  the  kingdom.     Montelovez  has  none  very  considerable. 

Rivers. — This  province  has  no  river  of  magnitude  or  consequence  but 
the  Rio  Grande,  which  crosses  its  northern  part  in  a  south-east  direction. 

Lakes. — There  is  a  small  lake  called  the  Agua  Verde,  situated  on  its 
western  extremity,  which  gives  rise  to  a  small  stream  that  discharges  itself 
into  the  Rio  del  Norte. 

Timber,  Plains,  aiid  Soil. — From  the  River  Nasas  to  the  east  the  pal- 
metto is  found,  which  grows  to  the  heighth  of  twenty  and  twenty-five 
feet,  with  a  trunk  of  two  or  three  feet  diameter  ;  its  Teaves  are  in  the  shape 
of  a  spear,  and  cover  all  the  trunk  when  young,  but  fall  off  as  the  tree  grows 
old  ;  its  wood  is  of  a  spongy  nature,  and  from  every  information  I  could 
procure,  is  of  the  same  species  as  that  of  the  same  name  in  the  southern 
States,  One  hundred  miles  to  the  east  of  the  Rio  Grande,  the  oak  timber 
commenced,  being  the  first  we  had  seen  in  the  province,  but  it  was  very 
small  and  scrubby,  and  presented  from  this  to  the  line  of  Texas  (the  River 
Mariana)  a  very  perceptible  gradation  of  the  increase  of  vegetation  of  tim- 
ber, in  quality,  luxuriance,  and  variety.  The  country  now  became  very 
similar  to  the  Indian  territory. 

Animals. — Deer,  wild  horses,  and  a  few  buffaloes  and  wild  hogs. 

Population  and  Chief  Towns. — Montelovez  is  the  capital  of  Cogquilla ; 
it  is  situated  on  a  small  stream  of  water,  and  lies  in  26° 2)'})  N.  latitude, 
103°  30'  W.  longitude;  it  is  about  one  mile  in  length,  on  a  course 
north,  70°  east  by  the  main  street ;  it  has  two  public  squares,  seven 
churches,  powder  magazines,  mills,  King's  hospital,  and  Quartel  del  Tropas. 
This  is  the  principal  military  depot  for  the  Provinces  of  Cogquilla  and 
Texas.  Its  population  may  be  estimated  at  three  thousand  five  hundred 
souls.  This  city  being  the  stated  residence  of  His  Excellency,  Governor 
Cordero,  has  been  ornamented  by  him  with  public  walks,  columns,  and 
fountains,  and  made  one  of  the  handsomest  cities  in  the  internal  provinces, 

Sta.  Rosa  is  about  thirty-eight  miles  to  the  north-west  of  Montelovez, 
and  is  represented  to  be  the  most  healthy  situation  in  the  provinces,  and 
to  have  the  best  water  and  fruit.  It  is  on  some  of  the  head  waters  of  the 
River  Millada.     Its   population    is   represented  at  four  thousand   souls. 


328  GEOGRAPHICAL  OBSERVATIONS  ON 

Parras  is  situated  on  a  small  stream,  and  with  its  suburbs  is  supposed  to 
contain  seven  thousand  souls;  and  San  Lorenzo,- three  miles  to  the  north, 
five  hundred  souls.  This  place  may  be  termed  the  vineyard  of  Cogquilla, 
the  whole  population  pursuing  no  other  occupation  than  the  cultivation  of 
the  grape,  and  its  name  denotes  the  branches  of  the  vine.  At  the  Hacienda 
of  San  Lorenzo,  where  we  halted,  were  fifteen  large  stills,  and  larger 
cellars,  and  a  greater  number  of  casks  than  I  ever  saw  in  any  brewery  in 
the  United  States.  Its  gardens  were  delightfully  interspersed  with  figs, 
vines,  apricots,  and  a  variety  of  fruits,  which  are  produced  in  the  torrid 
zone.  Fine  summer  houses,  where  were  wine,  refreshments,  and  couches 
to  repose  on,  and  where  the  singing  of  the  birds  was  delightful.  There 
were  here  likewise  mills,  and  a  fine  water-fall. 

The  Presidio  of  Rio  Grande  is  situated  on  that  river,  and  is  remarka- 
ble for  nothing  but  three  or  four  handsome  missions,  with  which  it  is 
surrounded,  a  powder  magazine,  quarters  for  the  troops,  and  a  few  iron 
field-pieces  on  miserable  truck  carriages.  Population  two  thousand 
five  hundred  souls.  The  population  of  this  province  may  be  estimated 
at  seventy  thousand  souls,  not  more  than  ten  thousand  of  whom  are 
Spaniards. 

Trade,  Commerce,  and  Manufactures. — This  province  receives  all  its 
merchandise  from  Mexico  by  land,  and  in  return  gives  horses,  mules, 
wines,  gold,  and  silver.  There  is  an  annual  fair  held  at  Saltelo,  in  New 
Leon,  at  which  an  immense  quantity  of  merchandise  is  disposed  of,  and 
where  merchants  of  very  large  capitals  reside. 

Agriculture. — They  cultivate  the  vine  principally,  with  grain  and  corn 
sufficient  for  their  own  consumption,  and  to  supply  the  greater  part  of 
Texas. 

Aborigines. — The  Apaches  cover  their  north-west  frontier.  The  Lee 
Panis  are  a  nation  who  rove  from  the  Rio  Grande  to  some  distance  into 
the  Province  of  Texas.  Their  former  residence  was  on  the  Rio  Grande, 
near  the  sea-shore.  They  are  at  present  divided  into  three  bands  of  three 
hundred,  three  hundred  and  fifty,  and  one  hundred  men  each;  are  at  war 
with  the  letans  and  Apaches,  and  at  peace  with  the  Spaniards.  They 
have  fair  hair,  and  are  generally  handsome;  and  are  armed  with  bows, 
arrows,  and  lances ;  they  pursue  the  wild  horses,  of  which  they  take  num- 
bers and  sell  them  to  the  Spaniards. 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  NEW  SPAIN.  329 

Government  atid  Lm,ws. — Military  and  ecclesiastical  power  is  all  that 
is  known  or  acknowledged  in  this  province,  but  its  administration  was 
mild  under  their  excellent  governor  Cordero.  The  Governor's  civil  salary 
is  four  thousand  dollars  per  annum. 

Morals  and  Manners. — It  was  evident  to  the  least  discerning  eye, 
that  as  we  diverged  from  those  parts  which  produce  such  vast  quantities 
of  the  precious  metals,  the  inhabitants  became  more  industrious,  and 
there  were  fewer  beggars ;  thus  were  the  morals  of  the  people  of  Cog- 
quilla  less  corrupted  than  those  of   Biscay  or  New  Leon,  their  neighbours. 

Military  Force. — There  are  four  hundred  dragoons  maintained  in  this 
province,  and  stationed  at  Montelovez,  Sta.  Rosa,  Presidio,  Rio  del 
Norte,  San  Fernandez. 

Religion. — Catholic,  but  mild.     It  is  in  the  Diocese  of  Durango. 

History. — Cogquilla  had  not  pushed  its  population  as  far  as  the  Rio 
Grande  in  the  year  1687,  as  at  that  time  La  Salle  established  himself  at 
the  entrance  of  that  river,  it  being  a  wilderness ;  but  Montelovez  was 
established  some  time  before  this  era ;  of  its  particular  history  I  have  no 
knowledge. 

The  Province  of  Texas  lies  between  27°  30'  and  35°  N.  latitude, 
98°  and  104°  W.  longitude;  bordered  on  the  north  by  Louisiana,  on  the 
east  by  the  Territory  of  Orleans,  on  the  west  by  Cogquilla  and  New  Mex- 
ico, and  on  the  south  by  New  San  Ander;  its  greatest  length  from  north 
to  south  may  be  five  hundred  miles,  and  breadth  from  east  to  west  three 
hundred  and  fifty. 

Air  and  Climate. — It  is  one  of  the  most  delightful  temperatures  in 
the  world,  but  being  a  country  covered  with  timber,  the  new  emigrants 
are  generally  sicklj',  which  may  very  justly  be  attributed  to  the  putrescent 
vegetable  matter  which  they  put  into  fermentation  in  clearing,  and  by 
remaining  on  the  ground,  inhaling  all  the  air  which  arises  from  the  effluvia, 
intermittents  supervene  and  billions  attacks,  and  in  some  instances  malig- 
nant fevers.  These  remarks  are  proved  by  the  observation  of  all  the  first 
settlers  of  our  western  frontiers,  that  those  places  which  in  the  course  of  ten 
or  fifteen  years  become  perfectly  healthy,  are  for  the  first  two  or  three  years 
quite  the  reverse,  and  generally  cost  them  the  loss  of  two  or  three  mem- 
bers of  their  families.  I  presume  that  this  dreadful  effect  might  be  reme- 
died if  the  settlers  would  go  with  the  working  hands  and  fell  the  timber 


330  GEOGRAPHICAL  OBSERVATIONS  ON 

and  destroy  the  vegetation  in  the  spring,  and  in  the  fall  when  dry  burn  it, 
but  not  reside  on  the  place  for  at  least  the  first  two  years,  in  the  course  of 
which  time  the  atmosphere  would  by  these  means  not  be  affected  by  the 
morbid  exhalations  arising  from  the  before-mentioned  causes ;  and  the 
place  would  be  as  healthy  a  residence  as  any  other  in  the  same  climate. 

Mines,  Minerals,  and  Fossils. — The  only  mine  known  and  worked  is 
one  of  lead. 

Rivers. — The  River  St.  Antonio  takes  its  source  about  one  league  to 
the  north-east  of  the  capital  of  the  province,  (St.  Antonio,)  and  is  navi- 
gable for  canoes  to  its  source,  affording  excellent  fish,  fine  mill-seats,  and 
water  to  every  part  of  the  town.  It  is  joined  by  the  River  Mariana  from 
the  west,  (which  forms  part  of  the  line  between  Cogquilla  and  Texas,)  and 
then  discharges  itself  into  the  Rio  Guadelupe,  about  fifty  miles  from  the 
sea.  At  the  town  of  St.  Antonio  it  is  about  twenty  yards  wide,  and  in 
some  places  twelve  feet  in  depth.  The  River  Guadelupe  takes  its  source 
about  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  to  the  north-west  of  St.  Antonio:  where 
we  crossed  it,  it  was  a  beautiful  stream  of  at  least  sixty  yards  in  width,  its 
waters  are  transparent  and  navigable  for  canoes.  After  receiving  the 
waters  of  St.  Antonio  and  St.  Mark,  it  discharges  itself  into  the  south-west 
end  of  the  Bay  of  St.  Bernard.  At  the  crossing  of  this  river  there  is  a  range 
for  the  horses  of  St.  Antonio,  and  a  guard  de  cabello  with  an  elegant  site 
for  a  town. 

The  River  St.  Mark  takes  its  source  about  one  hundred  miles  north, 
twenty  west  of  St.  Antonio,  and  at  the  crossing  of  the  road  is  thirty  yards 
in  width  :  a  clear  and  navigable  stream  for  canoes.  By  the  road  this  river 
is  only  fourteen  miles  from  the  Guadelupe,  into  which  it  discharges  itself. 

The  Red  river  takes  its  source  in  the  Province  of  Cogquilla,  in  33° 
N.  latitude,  104°  30'  W.  longitude,  but  bending  its  course  east,  enters 
the  Province  of  Texas  ;  and  after  a  winding  course  of  about  six  hundred 
miles  disembogues  itself  into  the  Bay  of  St.  Bernard  ;  in  the  29°  N.  lati- 
tude. Where  the  road  traverses,  it  was  at  least  one  hundred  and  fifty 
yards  wide,  and  has  a  guard  of  dragoons  stationed  on  its  banks ;  its  waters 
are  of  a  reddish  cast,  from  whence  it  probably  derived  its  name  :  this  stream 
is  navigable  for  boats  of  three  or  four  tons  burthen. 

The  River  Brassos  takes  its  source  in  the  Province  of  Cogquilla, 
in  34°  N.  latitude,  and  105°  W.  longitude,  enters  the  Province  of  Texas, 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  NEW  SPAIN.  331 

and  discharges  itself  into  the  Gulph  of  Mexico  in  28°  40'  after  a  course  of 
seven  hundred  miles ;  it  is  the  largest  river  in  the  province,  and  where  the 
road  crosses  is  three  hundred  yards  wide,  and  navigable  for  large  keels. 
From  the  appearance  on  its  banks  it  must  rise  and  fall  one  hundred  feet, 
its  waters  were  red  and  turbid,  its  banks  well  timbered  and  a  rich  pro- 
lific soil.  Here  was  kept  the  only  boat  I  recollect  to  have  seen  in  the 
provinces. 

The  River  Trinity  takes  its  source  in  34°  N.  latitude,  and  99°  W. 
longitude,  and  discharges  itself  into  Galveston's  bay,  in  29°  30'  N.  latitude. 
By  its  meanders  it  is  about  three  hundred  miles  in  length  ;  where  the  road 
crosses  it  is  about  sixty  yards  in  width,  with  high  steep  banks  covered  with 
timber,  and  a  rich  luxuriant  soil. 

The  Rivers  Natchez  and  Angelina  are  small  streams  of  about  twenty 
yards  in  width,  and  discharge  themselves  after  forming  a  junction  info  the 
Trinity. 

The  River  Toyac  is  a  small  stream  which  discharges  itself  into  the 
Gulph  of  Mexico,  in  the  same  bay  as  the  Sabine,  in  about  29°  50'  N.  lati- 
tude, and  97°  W.  longitude. 

The  Sabine  river,  the  present  limits  between  the  Spanish  dominions 
and  the  territories  of  the  United  States  in  that  quarter,  takes  its  source 
in  about  the  33°  N.  latitude,  and  enters  the  Gulph  of  Mexico  in  29°  50'.  It 
may  be  three  hundred  miles  in  length  by  its  meanders,  and  at  the  road 
about  fifty  yards  in  width :  here  the  Spaniards  keep  a  guard,  and  ferry- 
boat. 

Lakes. — Some  small  ones  near  the  head  of  the  Guadelupe,  and  some 
branches  of  Red  river. 

Timber,  Plains  and  Soil. — This  province  is  well  timbered  for  one 
hundred  miles  from  the  coast,  but  has  some  small  prairies  interspersed 
through  its  timbered  land ;  taken  generally  it  is  one  of  the  richest,  most 
prolific,  and  the  best  watered  countries  in  North  America,  for  the  residence 
of  man,  and  the  production  of  the  necessaries  of  life. 

Animals. — Buffalo,  deer,  elk,  wild  hogs,  and  wild  horses;  the  latter  of 
which  are  in  such  large  numbers  as  to  afford  supplies  for  all  the  savages 
who  border  on  the  province,  the  Spaniards,  and  vast  droves  for  the  other 
provinces  of  the  United  States,  which  find  their  way  out,  notwithstanding 
the  trade  being  contraband.      They  go    in   such    large  gangs   that    it    is 


332  GEOGRAPHICAL   OBSERVATIONS  ON 

requisite  to  keep  an  advanced  guard  of  horsemen,  in  order  to  frighten 
them  away ;  for  should  they  be  suffered  to  come  near  your  horses  and 
mules  which  you  drive  with  you,  by  their  snorting,  neighing,  &c.,  they 
alarm  them,  and  are  freqently  joined  by  them  and  taken  off,  notwithstand- 
ing all  the  exertions  of  the  dragoons  to  prevent  them.  A  gentleman  told  me 
he  saw  seven  hundred  beasts  carried  off  at  one  time,  not  one  of  which  was 
ever  recovered.  In  the  night  they  frequently  carry  off  the  droves  of 
travellers'  horses,  and  even  come  within  a  few  miles  of  St.  Antonio,  and 
entice  away  the  horses  in  the  vicinity.  The  method  pursued  by  the 
Spaniards  in  taking  them  is  as  follows :  they  take  a  few  fleet  horses  and 
proceed  into  the  country  where  the  wild  animals  are  numerous;  they  build 
a  large  inclosure,  with  a  door  which  enters  into  a  smaller  inclosure:  from 
the  entrance  of  the  large  pen  they  project  wings  out  into  the  prairie  to  a 
great  distance,  and  then  set  up  bushes,  &c.,  to  induce  the  horses  when 
pursued  to  enter  within  these  wings.  After  these  preparations  are  made, 
they  keep  a  lookout  for  a  small  drove  ;  for  if  they  unfortunately  should 
start  too  large  a  one,  they  either  burst  open  the  pen  or  fill  it  up  with  the 
dead  bodies,  and  the  remainder  run  over  them  and  escape ;  in  which  case 
the  party  is  obliged  to  leave  the  place,  as  the  stench  arising  from  the 
putrid  carcasses  would  be  insupportable,  and  in  addition  to  this,  the  pen 
would  not  receive  others.  But  should  they  succeed  in  driving  in  a  few, 
say  two  or  three  hundred,  they  select  the  handsomest  and  youngest,  noose 
them,  and  take  them  into  the  small  inclosure,  then  turn  out  the  others. 
After  which,  by  starving,  preventing  them  from  taking  any  repose,  and 
continually  keeping  them  in  motion,  they  subdue  them  by  degrees,  and 
finally  break  them  to  submit  to  the  saddle  and  bridle.  For  this  business  I 
presume  there  is  no  nation  in  the  world  superior  to  the  Spaniards  of 
Texas. 

Population  and  Chief  Towns. — St.  Antonio,  the  capital  of  the  province, 
lies  in  29°  50'  N.  latitude,  101°  W.  longitude;  is  situated  on  the  head 
waters  of  the  river  of  that  name,  and  perhaps  contains  two  thousand  souls, 
most  of  whom  reside  in  miserable  mud-wall  houses,  covered  with  thatch 
grass  roofs  ;  the  town  is  laid  out  on  a  very  grand  plan  :  to  the  east  of  it,  on 
the  other  side  of  the  river,  is  the  station  of  the  troops.  About  two,  three, 
and  four  miles  from  St.  Antonio  are  three  missions,  formerly  flourishing 
and  prosperous.     These  buildings  for  solidity,  accommodation,  and  even 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  NEW  SPAIN.  333 

majesty,  were  surpassed  by  few  that  I  met  with  in  New  Spain.  The  resi- 
dent priest  treated  us  with  the  greatest  hospitality,  and  was  respected  and 
beloved  by  all  who  knew  him.  He  made  a  singular  observation  relative 
to  the  aborigines,  who  had  formerly  formed  the  population  of  these 
establishments  under  the  charge  of  the  monks.  I  asked  him  what  had 
become  of  the  natives  ?  He  replied,  that  it  appeared  to  him  that  they  could 
not  exist  under  the  shadow  of  the  whites,  as  the  nations  who  formed 
these  missions  had  been  nurtured  and  taken  all  the  care  of  that  was 
possible,  and  put  on  the  same  footing  as  the  Spaniards ;  yet  they  had, 
notwithstanding,  dwindled  away,  until  the  other  two  had  become  entirely 
depopulated  ;  and  the  one  where  he  resided  had  not  more  than  sufficient 
to  perform  his  household  labour.  From  this  he  had  formed  an  idea  that 
God  never  intended  them  to  form  one  people,  but  that  they  should  always 
remain  distinct  and  separate. 

Nacogdoches  is  merely  a  station  for  troops,  and  contains  nearly 
five  hundred  souls;  it  is  situated  on  a  small  stream  of  the  River  Toyac. 

The  population  of  Texas  may  be  estimated  at  seven  thousand  ;  these 
are  principally  Spanish  Creoles ;  some  French,  some  Americans,  and  a  few 
civilized  Indians  and  half-breeds. 

Trade  and  Commerce. — This  province  trades  with  Mexico,  by  Montelrey 
and  Montelovez  for  merchandize,  and  with  New  Orleans  by  Natchitoches, 
but  the  latter,  being  contraband,  is  liable  to  great  damage  and  risks :  they 
give  in  return  specie,  horses,  and  mules. 

Agriculture. — The  American  emigrants  are  introducing  some  little 
spirit  of  agriculture  near  to  Nacogdoches  and  the  Trinity;  but  the  oppres- 
sion and  suspicions  they  labour  under  prevent  their  proceeding  with  that 
vigour  which  is  necessary  to  give  success  to  the  establishment  of  a  new 
country. 

Aborigines. — The  Tancards  are  a  nation  of  Indians  who  rove  on  the 
banks  of  Red  river,  and  are  six  hundred  men  strong;  they  follow  the  buffalo 
and  wild  horses,  and  carry  on  a  trade  with  the  Spaniards.  They  are  armed 
with  the  bow,  arrow,  and  lance  ;  are  errant  and  confined  to  no  particular  dis- 
trict. They  are  a  tall,  handsome  people:  in  conversation  they  have  a  pecu- 
liar clucking,  and  express  more  by  signs  than  any  savages  I  ever  visited;  in 
fact,  language  appears  to  have  made  less  progress  than  among  any  other. 


334  GEOGRAPHICAL  OBSERVATIONS   ON 

They  complain  much  of  their  situation  and  the  treatment  of  the  Span- 
iards ;  are  extremely  poor,  and,  except  the  Apaches,  were  the  most  inde- 
pendent Indians  we  observed  in  the  Spanish  territories:  they  possess  large 
droves  of  horses.  There  are  a  number  of  other  nations,  now  nearly  extinct, 
some  of  which  are  mentioned  by  Dr.  Sibley  in  a  report  he  made  to 
the  government  on  these  subjects.  A  few,  and  very  few  indeed,  of  these 
nations  have  been  converted  by  the  missions,  and  these  are  not  in  that  state 
of  vassalage  which  the  Indians  farther  to  the  south  are  held  in. 

Government  and  Laws. — Perfectly  military,  except  as  to  the  ecclesias- 
tical jurisdiction. 

Morals  and  Manners. — Being  on  the  frontiers,  where  buffalo  and  wild 
horses  abound  in  great  numbers,  and  not  engaged  in  any  war  with  savages 
who  are  powerful,  they  have  adopted  a  mode  of  living  by  following  those 
animals,  which  have  been  productive  of  a  more  errant  disposition  round 
the  capital  (St.  Antonio)  than  in  any  other  of  the  provinces  But  Cordero, 
by  restricting  (by  edicts)  the  buffalo  hunts  to  certain  seasons,  and  obliging 
every  man  of  family  to  cultivate  so  many  acres  of  land,  has,  in  some 
degree,  checked  the  spirit  of  hunting,  or  wandering  life,  which  had  been 
hitherto  so  very  prevalent;  and  has  endeavoured  to  introduce,  by  his  exam- 
ple and  precepts,  a  general  urbanity  and  suavity  of  manners,  which  ren- 
dered St.  Antonio  one  of  the  most  agreeable  sdjours  that  we  met  with  in 
the  provinces. 

Military  Force. — There  were  in  Texas,  at  the  time  I  came  through,  nine 
hundred  and  eighty-eight  men,  from  the  actual  returns  of  the  troops  which 
I  have  seen,  two  hundred  of  whom  were  from  St.  Ander  and  New  Leon, 
under  the  command  of  .Governor  Herrara.  The  disposition  of  those  troops 
are  as  follows :  three  hundred  and  eighty-eight  at  St.  Antonio;  four  hundred 

at  the  cantonment  of ,  on  the  Trinity;  one  hundred  at  the  Trinity, 

and  one  hundred  at  Nacogdoches.  The  militia  (a  rabble)  are  made  the 
more  respectable  by  a  few  American  riflemen,  who  are  incorporated  among 
them  ;  they  are  about  three  hundred  in  number,  including  bow  and  arrow 
men. 

Religion. — Catholic,  but  much  relaxed. 

History. — To  me  unknown,  except  what  might  be  extracted  from 
various  authors  on  that  subject. 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  NEW  SPAIN.  335 

General  Remarks  on  New  Spain. — To  become  acquainted  with  all  the 
civil  and  political  institutions  of  a  country,  requires  a  perfect  knowledge 
of  the  language,  a  free  ingress  to  the  archives,  and  residence  of  some  years. 
Even  then  we  can  scarcely  distinguish  between  the  statute  law  and  the 
common  law,  derived  from  custom,  morals,  and  habits :  under  these  cir- 
cumstances, it  cannot  be  expected  that  I  should  be  able  to  say  much  on  the 
subject,  as  I  possess  none  of  the  above  advantages ;  but  I  will  offer  a  few 
observations. 

To  a  stranger,  it  is  impossible  to  define  the  limits  of  the  military  and 
ecclesiastical  jurisdictions,  in  every  aflfair  which  relates  to  the  citizens  ,  and, 
in  fact,  with  the  soldiery  the  force  of  superstition  is  such,  that  I  am  doubt- 
ful whether  they  would  generally  obey  one  of  their  officers  in  direct  viola- 
tion of  the  injunction  of  their  religious  profession.  The' audiences  of 
Mexico  and  Guadalaxara  were  formed,  no  doubt,  as  a  check  on  the 
immense  power  of  the  Vice-Roy.  The  number  of  members  composing 
each,  is  to  me  unknown;  but  they  are  formed  of  the  Vice-Roy  as  president 
with  two  votes,  generals,  and  bishops.  To  their  jurisdiction,  the  appeals 
from  the  judgment  of  the  intendants,  and  all  subordinate  officers,  may  be 
made  in  civil  cases ;  but  the  military  and  ecclesiastical  decisions  are 
distinct :  yet  for  all  this  semblance  of  justice,  should  an  individual 
dare  to  make  the  appeal,  and  not  succeed  in  establishing  the  justice  of 
his  claim  to  redress,  he  is  certainly  ruined.  And  where  justice  is  so 
little  attended  to  when  opposed  to  power  and  wealth,  as  in  the  Span- 
ish provinces,  the  appeal  is  a  desperate  remedy.  This  tribunal,  or 
legislative  body,  enacts  all  the  laws  for  the  general  regulations  of  their 
divisions  of  the  kingdom. 

The  Captain-Generalship  of  the  internal  provinces  appeared  to  me 
to  be  much  more  despotic,  for  the  laws  or  regulations  were  issued  in 
the  form  of  an  order,  merely,  without  any  kind  of  a  preamble  whatso- 
ever, except  sometimes  it  was  said,  "by  order  of  the  King."  And  such  was 
the  style  of  the  governors  of  provinces. 

Morals,  Manners,  &c. — For  hospitality,  generosity,  docility,  and 
sobriety,  the  people  of  New  Spain  exceed  any  nation  perhaps  on  the 
globe  :  but  in  national  energy,  or  patriotism,  enterprise  of  character,  and 
independence  of  soiil,  they  are  perhaps  the  most  deficient.  Yet  there  are 
men  who  have  displayed  bravery  to  a  surprizing  degree,  and  the  Europeans 


336  GEOGRAPHICAL   OBSERVATIONS   ON 

who  are  there,  cherish  with  delight  the  idea  of  their  gallant  ancestry.  Their 
women  have  black  eyes  and  hair,  fine  teeth,  and  are  generally  brunettes.  I 
met  but  one  exception  to  this  rule  at  Chihuahua,  of  a  fair  lady,  and  she  by 
way  of  distinction  was  called  the  girl  with  light  hair.  They  are  all  inclin- 
ing a  little  to  en  bon  point,  but  none  (or  few)  are  elegant  figures.  Their 
dresses  are  generally  short  jackets  and  petticoats,  and  high-heel  shoes, 
without  any  head  dress  :  over  this  they  have  a  silk  wrapper  which  they 
always  wear,  and  when  in  the  presence  of  men  affect  to  bring  it  over  their 
faces  ;  but  as  we  approached  the  Atlantic  and  our  frontiers,  we  saw  sev- 
eral ladies  who  wore  the  gownsof  our  country  women,  which  they  conceive 
to  be  more  elegant  than  their  ancient  costume.  The  lower  class  of  the  men 
are  generally  dressed  in  broad-brimmed  hats,  short  coats,  large  waistcoats 
and  small  clothes,  always  open  at  the  knees,  owing,  I  suppose,  to  the 
greater  freedom  it  gives  to  the  limbs  on  horseback,  a  kind  of  leather  boot 
or  wrapper  bound  round  the  leg,  somewhat  in  the  manner  of  our  frontier 
men's  leggins,  and  gartered  on.  The  boot  is  of  a  soft  pliable  leather,  but 
not  coloured.  In  the  eastern  provinces  the  dragoons  wear  over  this  wrap- 
per a  sort  of  jack-boot  made  of  seal  leather,  to  which  are  fastened  the  spurs- 
by  a  rivet,  the  gaffs  of  which  are  sometimes  near  an  inch  in  length.  But 
the  spurs  of  the  gentlemen  and  officers,  although  clumsy  to  our  ideas,  are 
frequently  ornamented  with  raised  silver  work  on  the  shoulders,  and  the 
strap  embroidered  with  silver  and  gold  thread.  They  are  always  ready  to 
mount  their  horses,  on  which  the  inhabitants  of  the  internal  provinces 
spend  nearly  half  the  day.  This  description  will  apply  generally  for  the 
dress  of  all  the  men  of  the  provinces  for  the  lower  class,  but  in  the  towns, 
amongst  the  more  fashionable  ranks,  they  dress  after  the  European  or 
United  States  mode,  with  not  more  distinction  than  we  see  in  our  cities 
from  one  six  months  to  another.  Both  men  and  women  have  remarkably 
fine  hair,  and  pride  themselves  in  the  display  of  it. 

Their  amusements  are  music,  singing,  dancing,  and  gambling;   the 
latter  is  strictly  prohibited,  but  the  prohibition  is  not  much  attended  to. 

The  dance  of  is  performed  by  one  man  and  two  women,  who  beat 

time  to  the  music,  which  is  soft  and  voluptuous,  but  sometimes  changes  to 
a  lively  gay  air,  whilst  the  dancers  occasionaly  exhibit  the  most  indelicate 
gestures.  The  whole  of  this  dance  impressed  me  with  the  idea  of  an  iso- 
lated society  of  once  civilized  beings,  but  now  degenerated  into  a  medium 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  NEW  SPAIN.  337 

state,  between  the  improved  world  and  the  children  of  nature.  The  fan- 
dango is  danced  in  various  figures  and  numbers.  The  minuet  is  still 
danced  by  the  superior  class  only  ;  the  music  made  use  of  is  the  guitar, 
violin,  and  singers,  who  in  the  first  described  dance,  accompany  the  music 
with  their  hands  and  voices,  having  always  some  words  adapted  to  the 
music,  which  are  generally  of  such  a  tendency  as  would  in  the  United 
States  occasion  every  lady  to  leave  the  room. 

Their  games  are  cards,  billiards,  horse-racing,  and  cock-fighting, 
the  first  and  last  of  which  are  carried  to  the  most  extravagant  lengths, 
the  parties  losing  and  winning  immense  sums.  The  present  Commandant- 
General  is  very  severe  with  his  ofificers  in  these  respects,  frequently 
sending  them  to  some  frontier  post,  in  confinement  for  months,  for  no 
other  fault  than  having  lost  large  sums  at  play. 

At  every  town  of  consequence  is  a  public  walk,  where  the  ladies 
and  gentlemen  meet  and  sing  songs,  which  are  always  on  the  subject 
of  love,  or  the  social  board.  The  females  have  fine  voices  and  sing 
in  French,  Italian  and  Spanish,  the  whole  company  joining  in  the 
chorus.  In  their  houses  the  ladies  play  on  the  guitar,  and  generally 
accompany  it  with  their  voices.  They  either  sitT  down  on  the  carpet 
cross-legged,  or  loll  on  a  sofa.  To  sit  upright  in  a  chair  appeared  to 
put  them  to  great  inconvenience,  and  although  the  better  class  would 
sometimes  do  it  on  our  first  introduction,  they  soon  demanded  liberty 
to  follow  their  old  habits.  In  their  eating  and  drinking  they  are 
remarkably  temperate.  Early  in  the  morning  you  receive  a  dish  of 
chocolate  and  a  cake  ;  at  twelve  you  dine  on  several  dishes  of  meat, 
fowls,  and  fish;  after  which  you  have  a  variety  of  confectionary,  and 
indeed  an  elegant  dessert :  then  drink  a  few  glasses  of  wine,  sing  a  few 
songs,  and  retire  to  take  the  siesta,  or  afternoon  nap,  which  is  done 
by  rich  and  poor;  and  .about  two  o'clock  the  windows  and  doors  are 
all  closed,  the  streets  deserted,  and  the  stillness  of  midnight  i^eigns 
throughout.  About  four  o'clock  they  rise,  wash,  and  dress,  and  prepare 
for  the  dissipation  of  the  night.  About  eleven  o'clock  some  refresh- 
ments are  offered,  but  few  take  any,  except  a  little  wine  and  water  and  a 
little  candied  sugar. 

The  Government  have  multiplied  the  difficulties  for  Europeans  mix- 
ing with  the  Creoles  or  Mestis,  to  such  a  degree,  that  it  is  difficult  for 


338  GEOGRAPHICAL  OBSERVATIONS  ON 

a  marriage  to  take  place.  An  officer  wishing  to  marry  a  lady  not  from 
Europe,  is  obliged  to  acquire  certificates  of  the  purity  of  her  descent 
for  two  hundred  years  back,  and  transhiit  them  to  thfe  court,  when  the 
licence  will  be  returned ;  but  should  she  be  the  daughter  of  a  person  of 
the  rank  of  captain  or  upwards,  this  nicety  vanishes,  as  their  rank  purifies 
the  blood  of  the  descendants. 

The  general  subjects  of  the  conversation  of  the  men  are  women, 
money,  and  horses,  which  appear  to  be  the  only  objects  in  their  estima- 
tion worthy  of  consideration.  Having  united  the  female  sex  with  their 
money  and  their  beasts,  and  treated  them  too  much  after  the  manner  of 
the  latter,  they  have  eradicated  from  their  breasts  every  sentiment  of  virtue, 
or  of  ambition,  to  pursue  the  acquirements  which  would  make  them  amiable 
companions,  instructive  mothers,  or  respectable  members  of  society.  Their 
whole  souls,  with  a  few  exceptions,  like  the  Turkish  ladies,  are  taken  up 
in  music,  dress,  and  the  little  blandishments  of  voluptuous  dissipation. 
Finding  that  the  men  only  require  these  as  objects  of  gratification  to  the 
sensual  passions,  they  have  lost  every  idea  of  the  feast  of  reason  and  the 
flow  of  soul  which  arise  from  the  intercourse  of  two  refined  and  virtuous 
minds,  whose  inmost  thoughts  are  open  to  the  inspection  and  admiration 
of  each  other,  and  whose  refinements  of  sentiment  heighten  the  pleasures 
of  every  gratification. 

The  beggars  of  the  City  of  Mexico  alone  are  estimated  at  sixty  thou- 
sand souls,  what  must  be  the  number  through  the  whole  kingdom  ?  And 
what  reason  can  it  be  owing  to,  that,  in  a  country  superior  to  any  in  the 
world  for  riches  in  gold  and  silver,  producing  all  the  necessaries  of  life, 
and  most  of  its  luxuries,  there  should  be  such  a  vast  proportion  of  the 
inhabitants  in  want  of  bread  and  clothing  ?  It  can  only  be  accounted  for 
by  the  tyranny  of  the  government,  and  the  luxuries  of  the  rich  :  the 
government  striving  by  all  the  local  restrictions  possible  to  be  invented, 
without  absolutely  driving  the  people  to  desperation,  to  keep  Spanish 
America  dependent  on  Europe. 

Trade,  Commerce,  Manufactures,  and  Revenue. — The  trade  and  com- 
merce of  New  Spain  are  carried  on  with  Europe  and  the  United  States 
by  the  port  of  Vera  Cruz  solely,  and  with  the  East  Indies  and  South 
America  by  Acapulco,  and  even  then  under  such  restrictions  of  produc- 
tions, manufactures,  and  time,  as  to  render  it  almost  of  no  consequence  as 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  NEW  SPAIN.  339 

to  the  general  prosperity  of  the  country.  Were  all  the  numerous  bays 
and  harbours  of  the  Gulph  of  Mexico  and  California  opened  to  the  trade  of 
the  world,  and  a  general  licence  given  to  the  cultivation  of  all  the  productions 
which  the  country  is  capable  of  yielding,  with  freedom  of  exportation  and 
importation,  with  proper  duties  on  foreign  goods,  the  country  would  imme- 
diately become  rich  and  powerful,  a  proper  stimulus  would  be  held  out  to 
the  poor  to  labour,  when  certain  of  finding  a  quick  and  ready  sale  for  the 
productions  of  their  plantations  or  manufactories.  The  country  abounds 
in  iron  ore,  yet  all  the  iron  and  steel,  and  articles  of  manufactures  are 
obliged  to  be  brought  from  Europe,  the  manufacturing  or  working  of  iron 
being  strictly  prohibited.  This  occasions  the  necessary  utensils  of  hus- 
bandry, arms,  and  tools,  to  be  enormously  high,  and  forms  a  great  check  to 
agriculture,  improvements  in  manufactures,  and  military  skill.  The  works 
of  the  Mexicans  in  gold,  silver,  and  painting,  shew  them  naturally  to  have 
a  genius,  which,  with  cultivation  and  improvement,  might  rival  the  greatest 
masters  of  either  ancient  or  modern  schools.  Their  dispositions  and 
habits  are  peculiarly  calculated  for  sedentary  employments,  and  I  have  no 
doubt,  if  proper  establishments  were  made,  they  would  soon  rival,  if  not 
surpass,  the  most  extensive  woollen,  cotton  or  silk  manufactures  of  Europe. 
Their  climate  is  adapted  for  raising  the  finest  cotton  in  the  world,  and  their 
sheep  possess  all  the  fineness  of  wool  for  which  they  are  so  celebrated  in 
Spain.  Besides  this  they  have  immense  quantities  of  raw  materials,  which 
they  have  on  hand,  wool  selling  for  a  mere  song,  and,  in  fact,  they  scarcely 
take  the  half  from  the  fleece  of  the  sheep  for  the  coarse  manufactories  of 
the  country,  and  for  making  beds. 

I  cannot  presume  to  state  the  revenues  of  the  country,but  am  credibly 
informed  that  the  «iint  coins  per  annum  at  least  fifty  millions  of  dollars  in 
silver,  and  fourteen  millions  of  dollars  in  gold,  the  one-fifth  of  which  amounts 
to  twelve  millions  eight  hundred  thousand.  The  duties  on  foreign  goods, 
.and  the  amount  paid  by  the  purchasers  of  monopoly,  may  make  four  mill- 
ions more,  which  would  make  the  annual  revenue  sixteen  millions  eight  hun- 
dred thousand.  The  civil  list  of  the  kingdom  amounts  to  five  hundred  and 
eighty  thousand.  The  military,  seven  millions  one  hundred  and  eighty- 
nine  thousand  two  hundred,  making,  with  the  civil  list,  seven  millions  seven 
hundred  and  sixty  thousand  two  hundred,  which  deducted  from  sixteen 
millions  eight  hundred  thousand,  leaves  a  clear  revenue  for  the  King  from  his 


340  GEOGRAPHICAL  OBSERVATIONS  ON 

Mexican  dominions  of  nine  millions  thirty  thousand  eight  hundred.  The 
clergy  are  not  included  in  this  estimate,  as  they  receive  their  revenues 
through  their  own  proper  channel,  and  although  the  best  paid  officers  in 
the  government  cost  the  King  nothing  in  a  direct  way,  yet  the  dreadful 
manner  in  which  they  oppress  and  impoverish  his  subjects  would  render  it 
better  policy  to  abolish  their  impositions  and  pay  them  a  direct  salary  out 
of  the  public  treasury. 

The  European  troops  are  some  of  the  choicest  regiments  from  Spain, 
consequently  we  may  put  them  on  the  supposition  that  they  are  well  dis- 
ciplined and  officered  by  men  of  honour  and  science.  The  regular  troops 
of  the  kingdom,  who  are  in  the  Vice-Royalty,  acting  from  the  stimulus  of 
ambition  and  envy,  are  supposed  to  be  equal  to  their  brethren  from 
Europe.  The  militia  with  the  regular  officers  are  likewise  good  troops, 
but  are  not  held  in  such  high  estimation  as  the  other  corps.  These  three 
corps,  forming  a  body  of  twenty-three  thousand  two  hundred  and  eighty- 
eight  men,  may  be  called  the  regular  force  of  the  kingdom,  as  the  militia 
of  one  hundred  and  thirty-nine  thousand  five  hundred,  would  in  my  esti- 
mation be  of  no  more  consequence  against  the  regular  troops  of  any  civil- 
ized power,  than  the  ancient  aborigines  of  the  country  were  against  the 
army  of  Cortes.  The  particular  observations  which  follow,  must  be  con- 
sidered as  applying  to  the  troops  of  the  internal  provinces,  unless  specified 
to  the  contrary.  The  appearance  of  the  Spanish  troops  is  certainly  (at  a 
distance)  h  la  militaire.  Their  lances  are  fixed  to  the  side  of  the  saddle 
under  the  left  thigh,  and  slant  about  five  feet  above  the  horse;  on  the  right 
the  carabine  is  slung  in  a  case  to  the  front  of  the  saddle  (or  pummel) 
crossways,  the  breech  to  the  right  hand,  and  on  each  side  of  the  saddle 
behind  the  rider  is  a  pistol ;  below  the  breech  of  the  cmrabine  is  slung  the 
shield,  which  is  made  of  sole  leather  trebled,  sewed  together  with  thongs, 
with  a  band  on  the  inside,  to  slip  the  left  arm  through  ;  those  of  the  pri- 
vates are  round,  and  about  two  feet  in  diameter.  The  officers  and  non- 
commissioned officers  have  them  of  an  oval  form,  bending  on  both  sides, 
in  order  to  permit  the  arrow  to  glance,  and  they  have  in  general  the  arms 
of  Spain  with  Don  Carlos  the  fourth,  gilt  on  the  outside,  with  various 
other  devices,  which  add  much  to  the  elegance  of  their  appearance  on 
horseback,  but  are  only  calculated  to  be  of  service  against  savages,  who 
have  no  fire-arms.     The  dragoons  of  the  Vice-Royalty  do  not  make  use 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  NEW  SPAIN. 


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342  GEOGRAPHICAL  OBSERVATIONS  ON 

of  the  lance  or  shield,  but  are  armed,  equipped,  and  clothed  after  the  mod- 
ern manner,  as  are  also  the  dragoons  of  the  eastern  provinces.  When 
they  recently  expected  to  be  opposed  by  the  American  troops,  they  were 
deprived  of  their  lance  and  shield,  and  received  the  straight  cutlass,  in  their 
stead. 

Their  dress  is  a  short  blue  coat,  with  a  red  cape  and  cuff  without 
facings,  leather  or  blue  cotton  velvet  small  clothes  and  waistcoat ;  the 
small  clothes  always  open  at  the  knees  :  the  wrapping  boot  with  the  jack 
boot,  and  permanent  spurs  over  it ;  a  broad-brimmed  high-crowned  wool 
hat  with  a  ribbon  round  it  of  various  colours,  generally  received  as  a  pres- 
ent from  some  female,  which  they  wear  as  a  badge  of  favour  of  the  fair 
sex,  and  a  mark  of  their  gallantry. 

Their  horses  are  small  and  slender  limbed,  but  verj^  agile,  and  are 
capable  of  enduring  great  fatigue.  The  equipments  of  the  horses  are,  to 
our  ideas,  awkward,  but  I  believe  them  superior  to  the  English,  and  they 
have  the  advantage  over  us,  as  to  the  skill  of  the  rider  as  well  as  the  quality 
of  the  horse,  as  their  bridles  have  a  strong  curb  which  gives  them  so  great 
a  mechanical  force  that  I  believe  it  almost  practicable  with  it  to  break  the 
jaw  of  the  horse.  The  saddle  is  made  after  the  Persian  model,  with  a  high 
projecting  pummel,  or,  as  anciently  termed,  bow,  and  is  likewise  raised 
behind;  this  is  merely  the  tree.  It  is  then  covered  by  two  or  three  coats 
of  carved  leather,  and  embroidered  workmanship,  some  with  gold  and 
silver  in  a  very  superb  manner.  The  stirrups  are  of  wood  closed  in  front, 
carved  generally  in  the  figure  of  a  lion's  head  or  some  other  beast ;  they 
are  very  heavy,  and  to  us  present  a  very  clumsy  appearance.  The  horse- 
man seated  on  his  horse  has  a  small  bag  tied  behind  him,  his  blankets 
either  under  him  or  lying  with  his  cloak  between  his  body  and  the  bow, 
which  makes  him  at  his  ease.  Thus  mounted  it  is  impossible  for  the  most 
vicious  animals  to  dismount  them.  They  will  catch  another  horse,  when 
both  are  running  nearly  at  full  speed,  with  a  noose  and  hair  rope,  with 
which  they  will  soon  choak  down  the  beast  they  are  pursuing.  In  short, 
they  are  probably  the  most  expert  horsemen  in  the  world. 

At  each  port  is  a  store,  called  the  King's,  where  it  was  the  original 
intention  of  the  government  that  the  soldiers  should  be  supplied  with  pro- 
visions, clothing,  arms,  &c.,  at  a  cheap  rate  ;  but  it  being  a  post  generally 
given  to  some  young  ofificer  to  make  his  fortune,  they  are  subject  to  great 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  NEW  SPAIN.      •  343 

impositions.  When  a  dragoon  joins  the  service  he  receives  from  the 
King  five  horses  and  two  mules,  and  this  number  he  is  always  obliged  to 
keep  good  from  his  own  pocket ;  but  when  he  is  discharged,  the  horses 
and  mules  receive  the  discharge  mark,  and  become  his  private  property. 
They  engage  for  five  or  ten  years,  at  the  option  of  the  soldier.  But  in  the 
bounty  there  is  a  very  material  difference.  It  is  extremely  easy  to  keep 
up  the  corps,  as  a  private  dragoon  considers  himself  upon  an  equality  with 
most  of  the  citizens,  and  infinitely  superior  to  the  lower  class ;  and  it  is 
not  unfrequent  to  see  men  of  considerable  fortune  marrying  the  daughters 
of  sergeants  and  corporals. 

The  pay  of  the  troops  of  New  Spain  varies  with  the  locality,  but  may 
be  averaged  in  the  internal  provinces  as  follows  : 

A  colonel,  four  thousand  five  hundred  dollars  per  annum  ;  lieutenant- 
colonel,  four  thousand ;  major,  three  thousand ;  captain,  two  thousand 
four  hundred  ;  first  lieutenant,  one  thousand  five  hundred  ;  second  lieu- 
tenant, one  thousand  ;  ensign,  eight  hundred  ;  sergeant,  three  hundred 
and  fifty;  corporal,  three  hundred  ;  private,  two  hundred  and  eighty-eight. 
With  this  pay  they  find  their  own  clothes,  provisions,  arms,  accoutre- 
ments, &c.,  after  the  first  equipments. 

Corporal  punishment  is  contrary  to  the  Spanish  ordinances ;  they 
punish  by  imprisonment,  putting  in  the  stocks,  and  death  ;  but  as  a 
remarkable  instance  of  the  discipline  and  regularity  of  conduct  of  the 
provincial  troops,  I  may  mention,  that  although  marching  with  them,  and 
doing  duty  as  it  were  for  nearly  four  months,  I  never  saw  a  man  receive  a 
blow  ;  or  put  under  confinement  for  one  hour.  How  impossible  would  it 
be  to  regulate  the  turbulent  dispositions  of  the  Americans  with  such  treat- 
ment? In  making  the  foregoing  remark,  I  do  not  include  ofificers,  for  I 
saw  more  rigourous  treatment  exercised  towards  some  of  them  than  ever 
was  practised  in  our  army. 

The  discipline  of  their  troops  is  very  different  from  ours  :  as  to  tactics, 
or  military  manoeuvres,  they  are  not  held  in  much  estimation  ;  for  during 
the  whole  of  the  time  I  was  in  the  country,  I  never  saw  a  corps  of  troops 
exercising  as  dragoons,  but  frequently  marching  by  platoons,  sections,  &c., 
in  garrison,  where  they  serve  as  infantry,  with  their  carabines.  In  these 
mancEuvres  they  were  also  very  deficient.  On  a  march,  a  detachment  of 
cavalry  generally  encamp  in  a  circle.     They  relieve  their  guards  at  night. 


344  GEOGRAPHICAL  OBSERVATIONS  ON 

and  as  soon  as  they  halt  the  new  guard  is  formed  on  foot,  with  their  cara- 
bines, and  then  march  before  the  Commandant's  tent,  where  the  command- 
ing officer  of  the  guard  cries  the  invocation  of  the  Holy  Virgin  three 
times.  The  commanding  officer  replies,  it  is  well.  They  then  retire  and 
mount  their  horses,  and  are  told  off,  some  to  act  as  guard  of  the  horses,  as 
cavalry ;  others  as  guard  of  the  camp,  as  infantry.  The  old  guards  are 
then  paraded  and  relieved,  and  the  new  sentinels  take  post.  The  sentinels 
are  singing  half  their  time,  and  it  is  no  uncommon  thing  for  them  to  quit 
their  post  to  come  to  the  fire,  go  for  water,  &c.  In  fact,  after  the  officer 
is  in  bed,  frequently  the  whole  guard  comes  in  ;  yet  I  never  knew  any  man 
punished  for  these  breaches  of  military  duty. 

Their  mode  of  attack  is  by  squadrons  on  the  different  flanks  of  their 
enemies,  but  without  regularity  or  concert,  shouting,  hallooing,  and  firing 
their  carabines,  after  which,  if  they  think  themselves  equal  to  the  enemy, 
they  charge  with  a  pistol  and  then  the  lance.  But  from  my  observations 
on  their  discipline,  I  have  no  hesitation  in  declaring  that  I  would  not  be 
afraid  to  march  over  a  plain  with  five  hundred  infantry,  and  a  proportion- 
ate allowance  of  horse  artillery  of  the  United  States  army,  in  the  presence 
of  five  thousand  of  these  dragoons.  Yet,  I  do  not  presume  to  say,  that  an 
army  with  that  inferiority  of  numbers  would  do  to  oppose  them,  for  they 
would  cut  off  your  supplies,  and  harass  your  march  and  camp  night  and 
day,  to  such  a  degree  as  to  oblige  you  in  the  end  to  surrender  to  them 
without  ever  having  come  to  action  ;  but  if  the  event  depended  on  one 
engagement,  it  would  terminate  with  glory  to  the  American  arms.  The 
conclusion  must  not  however  be  drawn,  that  I  infer  from  this  they  are 
deficient  in  physical  firmness  more  than  other  nations,  for  we  see  the 
savages,  five  hundred  of  whom  would  on  a  plain  fly  before  fifty  bayonets, 
on  other  occasions  brave  danger  and  death  in  its  most  horrid  shapes,  with 
an  undaunted  fortitude  never  surpassed  by  the  most  disciplined  and  hardy 
veterans.  But  it  arises  solely  from  the  want  of  discipline  and  confidence 
in  each  other,  as  is  always  the  case  with  undisciplined  corps ;  unless  stimu- 
lated by  the  god-like  sentiment  of  love  of  country,  which  these  poor  fellows 
know  nothing  of.  * 

The  travelling  food  of  the  dragoons  in  New  Mexico,  consists  of  a  very 
excellent  species  of  wheat  biscuit,  and  shaved  meat  well  dried,  with  a  vast 
quantity  of  red  pepper,  of  which   they  make  bouilli  and   then  pour  it   on 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  NEW  SPAIN.  345 

their  broken  biscuit,  when  it  becomes  soft  and  excellent  eating.  Farther 
south  they  use  great  quantities  of  parched  corn  meal  and  sugar,  as  practised 
by  our  hunters,  each  dragoon  having  a  small  bag.  They  thus  live,  when 
on  command,  on  an  allowance  which  our  troops  would  conceive  little 
better  than  starving,  never  except  at  night  attempting  to  eat  any  thing 
like  a  meal,  but  biting  a  piece  of  biscuit,  or  drinking  some  parched  meal 
and  sugar,  with  water  during  the  day. 

From  the  physical  as  well  as  moral  properties  of  the  inhabitants  of 
New  Spain,  I  do  believe  they  are  capable  of  being  made  the  best  troops 
in  the  world,  possessing  sobriety,  enterprise,  great  physical  force,  docility, 
and  a  conception  equally  quick  and  penetrating. 

The  modes  of  promotion  in  the  internal  provinces  are  singular,  but 
probably  productive  of  good  effects.  Should  a  vacancy  of  first  lieutenant 
offer,  in  a  company,  the  captain  commanding  nominates,  with  the  senior 
second  lieutenant  (who  by  seniority  would  fill  the  vacancy)  two  other 
lieutenants  to  the  General,  giving  his  comments  on  the  three.  The  General 
selects  two,  for  nomination  to  the  court,  from  whom  is  selected  the  fortunate 
candidate,  whose  commission  is  made  out  and  forwarded.  As  the  letters 
of  nomination  are  always  kept  secret,  it  is  impossible  for  the  young  officers 
to  say  who  is  to  blame,  should  they  be  disappointed,  and  the  fortunate -is 
in  a  direct  way  to  thank  the  King  only  for  the  ultimate  decision.  The 
method  is  the  same  with  the  superior  grades  to  the  colonel. 

The  King  of  Spain's  ordinances  for  the  government  of  his  army  are 
generally  founded  on  justice  and  a  high  sense  of  honour  :  I  could  not 
procure  a  set  from  any  of  tjie  officers  to  take  to  my  quarters,  consequently 
my  observations  on  them  were  extremely  cursory.  They  provide  that  no 
old  soldier  shall  ever  be  discharged  the  service  unless  for  infamous  crimes. 
When  a  man  has  served  with  reputation  for  fifteen  years  and  continues, 
his  pay  is  augmented,  twenty  years  he  receives  another  augmentation  ; 
twenty-seven  years  he  receives  the  brevet  rank  and  pay  of  an  ensign,  and 
thirty-two  those  of  a  lieutenant,  &c.  These  circumstances  are  a  great 
stimulus,  although  not  one  in  a  thousand  arrive  at  the  third  period,  when 
they  are  permitted  to  retire  from  the  service  with  full  pay  and  emoluments. 
All  sons  of  captains,  or  of  grades  superior,  are  entitled  to  enter  the  King's 
school  as  cadets,  at  the  age  of  twelve  years.  The  property  of  an  officer  or 
soldier,  who  is  killed  on   the   field  of  battle,  or  dies  of  his  wounds,  is  not 


346  GEOGRAPHICAL  OBSERVATIONS  ON 

liable  to  be  taken  for  debt,  and  is  secured,  as  well  as  the  King's  pension, 
to  the  relatives  of  the  deceased. 

Court  martials  for  the  trial  of  a  commissioned  officer  must  be  formed 
of  general  officers ;  but  this  clause  subjects  the  officers  of  the  provinces  to 
a  great  species  of  tyranny,  for  the  Commanding-General  has  taken  upon 
himself  to  punish  for  all  offences  not  capital,  consequently  according  to 
his  own  judgment  and  prejudices,  and  from  which  there  is  only  an 
appeal  to  the  King.  Difficult  indeed,  must  it  be  for  the  complaints  of 
a  subaltern  to  reach  the  ears  of  His  Majesty  through  the  numerous 
crowds  of  sycophants  who  surround  him,  one  half  of  whom  are  probably 
in  league  with  the  oppressor.  This  practice  likewise  deprives  an  officer 
of  the  most  sacred  of  all  rights,  the  being  tried  by  his  peers,  for  should 
he  be  sent  to  Mexico  or  Europe  for  trial,  it  is  possible  he  may  not  be 
able  to  take  half  the  testimony  which  is  necessary  to  his  complete 
justification. 

There  is  another  principle  defined  by  the  ordinances  which  has 
often  been  the  cause  of  disputes  in  the  service  of  the  United  States,  viz.: 
The  commandant  of  a  post  in  the  Spanish  service,  if  barely  a  captain, 
receives  no  orders  from  a  general,  should  one  arrive  at  his  post,  unless  that 
general  should  be  superior  in  authority  to  the  person  who  posted  him;  for, 
says  the  ordinance,  he  is  responsible  to  the  King  alone  for  his  post.  'This 
principle,  according  to  my  ideas,  is  very  injurious  to  the  interest  of  any 
country  that  adopts  it.  We  will  say  for  example  that  a  post  of  great 
importance,  containing  immense  military  stores,  is  likely  to  fall  into  the 
hands  of  the  enemy  ;  a  superior  officer  to  the  commandant  receives  the 
information,  and  repairs  to  the  post,  and  orders  him  immediately  to 
evacuate  it.  The  commandant  feeling  himself  only  responsible  to  the 
authority  who  placed  him  in  that  position,  refuses  to  obey,  and  the 
magazines  and  place  are  lost !  The  principle  is  likewise  subversive  of 
the  very  foundation  of  military  subordination  and  discipline,  whereby  an 
inferior  should  in  all  cases  obey  a  superior,  who  alone  should  be  responsible 
for  the  effect  arising  from  the  execution  of  his  orders.  It  will  readily  be 
believed  that  in  thus  advocating  implicit  obedience  to  the  orders  of  a 
superior,  I  do  not  suppose  the  highest  improbabilities,  or  impossibilities, 
such  as  a  command  from  him  to  turn  your  arms  against  the  constituted 
authority  of  your  country,  or  to  be  an  engine  of  his  tyranny,  or  the  pander 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  NEW  SPAIN.  347 

of  his  vices  ;  these  are  cases  wherein  a  man's  reason  alone  must  direct  him, 
and  are  not  and  cannot  be  subject  to  any  human  rule  whatever. 

Religion. — Its  forms  are  topics  with  which  I  am  very  imperfectly 
acquainted,  but,  having  made  some  enquiries  and  observations  on  the  sub- 
ject, I  will  freely  communicate  them,  fearful,  at  the  same  time,  that  I  may 
lay  myself  open  to  the  severe  criticism  of  persons  who  have  in  any  degree 
applied  themselves  to  the  study  of  theology  or  the  ritual  of  the  Catholic 
Church. 

The  Kingdom  of  New  Spain  is  divided  into  four  archbishopricks,  viz.: 
Mexico,  Guadalaxara,  Durango,  and  St.  Luis  Potosi ;  under  these  again 
are  the  subbishopricks,  deacons,  curates,  &c.,  each  of  whom  is  subject  and 
accountable  to  his  immediate  chiefs  forthe  districts  committed  to  his  charo-e, 
and  the  whole  are  again  subject  to  the  ordinances  of  the  high  court  of 
inquisition,  held  at  the  capital  of  Mexico  ;  whence  are  fulminated  the  edicts 
of  censure  against  the  heresies  and  impious  doctrines  of  the  modern  phi- 
losophy, both  as  to  politics  and  religion.  I  am  credibly  informed  that  the 
influence  of  that  tribunal  is  greater  in  His  Catholic  Majesty's  Mexican  domin- 
ions than  in  any  Catholic  country  in  Europe,  or  perhaps  in  the  world.  A 
few  years  since  they  condemned  a  man  to  the  flames  for  asserting  and 
maintaining  some  doctrine  which  they  deemed  heretical ;  and  also  a  Jew 
who  was  imprudent  enough  to  take  the  image  of  Christ  from  the  cross  and 
put  it  under  the  sill  of  his  door,  saying  privately,  he  would  make  the  dogs 
walk  over  their  God.  This  court  likewise  examines  and  condemns  all  books 
of  a  modern  sentiment,  either  as  to  religion  or  politics,  and  excommunicates 
any  one  in  whose  hands  they  may  be  found.  I  recollect  to  have  seen  one 
of  its  decrees  published  in  the  Mexican  Gazette,  condemning  a  number  of 
books  as  heretical  and  contrary  to  the  sacred  principles  of  the  H  oly  Catholic 
Church,  and  the  peace  and  durability  of  the  government  of  His  Catholic 
Majesty.  Amongst  these  were  mentioned  Helvetius  on  Man,  J.  J.  Rous- 
seau's Works,  Voltaire's,  Mirabeau's,  and  a  number  of  others  of  that 
description,  and  even  at  so  great  a  distance  as  Chihuahua  an  ofificer  dared 
not  take  Pope's  Essay  on  Man  to  his  quarters,  but  used  to  come  to  mine 
to  read  it. 

The  salaries  of  the  archbishops  are  superior  to  those  of  any  officers  in 
the  kingdom,  that  of  the  Bishop  of  Mexico  being  estimated  at  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  thousand  dollars  per  annum, while  the  Vice-Roy  has  but  eighty 


348  GEOGRAPHICAL  OBSERVATIONS  ON 

thousand,  and  fifty  thousand  allowed  for  his  table,  falling  short  of  the 
Bishop  twenty  thousand  dollars.  These  incomes  are  raised  entirely  from 
the  people,  who  pay  no  tax  to  the  King,  but  give  one-tenth  of  their  yearly 
income  to  the  clergy,  besides  the  fees  of  confessions,  bulls,  burials,  baptisms, 
marriages,  and  a  thousand  other  impositions,  which  the  corruption  of  priest- 
craft has  introduced,  and  have  been  kept  up  by  the  superstition  and  ignor- 
ance of  the  people.  Notwithstanding  all  this,  the  inferior  clergy,  who  do 
all  the  slavery  of  the  office,  are  liberal  and  well  informed  men.  I  scarcely 
saw  one  who  was  not  in  favour  of  a  change  of  government.  They  being 
generally  Creoles  by  birth,  and  always  kept  in  subordinate  grades,  without 
the  least  shadow  of  a  probability  of  rising  to  the  superior  dignities  of  the 
Church,  their  minds  have  been  soured  to  such  a  degree  that  I  am  confident 
in  asserting  they  will  lead  the  van  whenever  the  standard  of  independence 
is  raised  in  the  country. 

Politics. — It  has  often  been  a  subject  of  discussion  with  politicians, 
in  what  manner  a  mother  country  should  treat  her  distant  and  pow- 
erful colonies,  in  order  to  retain  them  the  longest  in  their  subjection. 
For  the  history  of  all  nations  and  all  ages  has  proved,  that  no  com- 
munity of  people  separated  from  another  by  an  immense  ocean,  feeling 
their  power,  strength,  and  independence,  will  remain-  long  subject  to  the 
parent  state  purely  from  the  ties  of  consanguinity  and  similarity  of  habits, 
manners,  and  religion.  Society  itself  having  arisen  from  the  mutual 
wants,  fears,  and  imbecility  of  the  infancy  of  human  institutions,  a  large 
body  of  that  society  will  remain  no  longer  subject  to  another  branch,  at  the 
immense  distance  of  a  thousand  leagues,  than  until  they  feel  their  maturity 
and  capability  of  providing  for  their  own  wants,  and  their  own  defence. 
We  may,  therefore,  draw  a  conclusion  that  no  political  course  of  conduct 
whatever  will  eventually  prevent  their  separation.  But  there  is  a  line  of 
conduct  which  certainly  must  retard  it  in  a  great  measure,  and  prudence 
would  dictate  to  the  mother  country  the  policy  of  giving  way  without  a 
struggle  to  an  event  beyond  her  power  to  prevent.  The  two  great 
examples  of  English  andSpanish  America  are  before  our  eyes.  England 
gave  us  free  liberty  to  pursue  the  dictates  of  our  own  judgment  with  respect 
to  trade,  education,  and  manners,  by  which  means  we  increased  in  power, 
learning,  and  wealth,  with  a  rapidity  unexampled  in  the  annals  of  the  world  ; 
and,  on  the  first  attempt  to  infringe  the  rights  which  we  had  en  joyed,  asserted 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  NEW  SPAIN.  349 

that  claim  which  nature  and  the  locality  of  our  situation  gave  us  a  right  to 
demand,  and  power  to  defend.  Had  Great  Britain  yielded  to  the  storm 
with  grace  and  dignity,  she  would  have  secured  our  gratitude,  ancient 
prejudices,  and  affections  in  her  favour  ;  but  by  a  long  and  arduous  con- 
flict, the  murder  of  thousands  of  our  citizens,  the  destruction  of  the 
country,  the  profanation  of  our  altars,  and  the  violation  of  every  right, 
divine  and  human,  she  implanted  into  the  breasts  of  the  Americans  an 
antipathy,  approaching  nearly  to  horror,  a  desire  of  revenge  almost  heredi- 
tary, and  destroyed  the  bonds  of  brotherhood  that  might  have  subsisted 
between  the  two  countries,  and  it  will  take  ages  of  just  conduct  from  l\er 
to  the  United  States  to  rectify  the  evil.  Spain  pursued  a  different  line  of 
conduct  towards  her  Mexican  dominions,  which  were  settled  by  Europeans 
sixty  years  previous  to  any  part  of  the  United  States,  and  might  be  termed 
a  conquered  kingdom,  rather  than  the  settlement  of  a  savage  country. 
This  country  she  has  therefore  bound  up  in  all  the  ligatures  of  restrictions, 
monoplies,  prohibitions,  seclusions,  and  superstition  ;  and  she  has  so  care- 
fully secluded  all  light  from  bursting  in  on  their  ignorance,  that  they  have 
vegetated  like  the  acorn  in  the  forest ;  until  the  towering  branches  have 
broken  through  the  darkness  of  the  wild  which  surrounded  them  and  let 
in  the  light  of  heaven.  The  approximation  of  the  United  States,  with 
the  gigantic  strides  of  French  ambition,  have  begun  to  rouse  up  their  dor- 
mant qualities,  and  to  call  into  motion  the  powers  of  their  minds,  on  the 
subject  of  their  political  situation.  Instances  of  their  disposition  for  inde- 
pendence were  exhibited  in  their  feeble  attempts  at  a  revolution  on  the 
15th  of  January,  1624,  under  the  Vice-Royalty  of  Don  Diego  Carrello 
Galves ;  the  insurrection  on  the  8th  of  June,  1692;  and  more  recently 
in  1797  under  the  Count  de  Galves,  when  they  proclaimed  him  King  of 
Mexico,  in  the  streets  of  the  capital,  and  one  hundred  and  thirty  thousand 
souls  were  heard  proclaiming,  "  Long  live  Galves  King  of  Mexico."  It 
was  then  only  for  him  to  have  willed  it,  and  the  Kingdom  of  Mexico  was 
lost  to  Charles  IV.  forever.  But  preferring  his  loyalty  to  his  ambition, 
he  rode  out  to  the  mob,  attended  by  his  guards,  with  his  sword  in  hand, 
crying  out,  "  Long  live  His  Catholic  Majesty  Charles  the  Fourth,"  and 
threatening  to  put  to  instant  death  with  his  own  hand,  any  persons  who 
refused  immediately  to  retire  to  their  houses.  This  dispersed  the  people. 
In,  another  quarter  of  the  kingdom  an  immense  number  had  collected  and 


350  GEOGRAPHICAL  OBSERVATIONS  ON 

proclaimed  him  king ;  he  sent  ten  thousand  men  against  them,  dispersed 
them,  and  had  four  beheaded.  These  firm  measures  saved  the  countrj- 
at  that  period.  Galves  received  the  greatest  honours  from  the  court 
of  Spain,  but  was  poisoned  in  a  short  time  after,  fulfilHng  the  maxim, 
"  That  it  is  dangerous  to  serve  jealous  tyrants,"  for  they  always  con- 
ceive that  the  same  power  who  stilled  the  ocean's  rage,  can  at  will 
raise  the  storm  into  all  the  majesty  of  overwhelming  fury.  Thus  by 
taking  his  life,  the  court  of  Spain  was  relieved  from  the  dread  of  his  influ- 
ence over  the  Mexicans.  England  would  naturally  have  been  the  power 
they  would  have  looked  up  to  in  order  to  form  an  alliance  to  secure  their 
independence  ;  but  the  insatiable  avarice  and  hauteur  exhibited  by  that 
nation  in  her  late  descent  at  La  Plata,  with  the  disgrace  of  her  arms,  has 
turned  their  views  to  other  quarters.  They  have  therefore  directed  their 
eyes  towards  the  United  States,  as  brethren  of  the  same  soil  in  their  vicinity; 
who  have  within  their  power  ample  resources  of  arms,  ammunition,  and 
even  men,  to  assist  in  securing  their  independence;  and  who  in  that  event 
would  secure  to  themselves  the  almost  exclusive  trade  of  the  richest  coun- 
try in  the  world  for  centuries,  and  to  be  her  carriers  as  long  as  the  two 
nations  exist.  For  Mexico,  like  China,  will  never  become  a  nation  of 
mariners,  but  must  receive  the  ships  of  all  the  world  into  her  ports,  and 
give  her  bullion  in  exchange  for  the  productions  of  their  different  countries. 
What  would  not  be  the  advantages  the  United  States  would  reap  from 
this  event  ?  Our  numerous  vessels  would  fill  every  port,  and  from  our 
vicinity  enable  us  to  carry  off  at  least  nine-tenths  of  her  commerce.  Even 
on  the  coast  of  the  Pacific  no  European  nation  could  vie  with  us  :  there 
would  also  be  a  brisk  inland  trade  carried  on  with  the  southern  provinces 
via  Red  river,  and  having  a  free  entrance  into  all  their  ports,  we  should 
become  their  factors,  agents,  guardians,  and,  in  short,  their  tutelar  genius, 
as  the  country  fears  but  hates  France  and  all  Frenchmen  and  measures. 
It  therefore  remains  for  the  government  of  the  United  States  to  decide, 
whether,  if  Buonaparte  should  seize  on  the  crown  of  Spain,  they  will  hold 
out  a  helping  hand,  to  emancipate  another  portion  of  the  western  hemi- 
sphere from  the  bonds  of  European  tyranny  and  oppression,  or  by  a  dif- 
ferent policy  suffer  six  hundred  thousand  people  to  become  in  the  hands 
of  French  intrigue,  enterprise,  and  tactics,  a  scourge  to  our  south-western 
.  boundaries,  which  would  oblige  us  to  keep  up  a   large  and  respectable 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  NEW  SPAIN.  351 

military  force,  and  continually  render  us  liable  to  a  war,  on  the  weakest 
and  most  vulnerable  part  of  our  frontiers. 

Twenty  thousand  auxiliaries  from  the  United  States  under  good  offi- 
cers, joined  to  the  independence  of  the  country,  are  at  any  time  sufficient 
to  create  and  effect  the  revolution.  Those  troops  can  be  raised  and 
officered  in  the  United  States,  but  must  be  paid  and  supported  at  the 
expence  of  Mexico.  It  would  be  requisite,  that,  not  only  the  General 
commanding,  but  every  officer,  down  to  the  youngest  ensign,  should  be 
impressed  with  the  necessity  of  supporting  a  strict  discipline,  to  prevent 
marauding,  which  should  in  some  instances  be  punished  with  death,  in 
order  to  evince  to  the  citizens  that  you  came  as  their  friends  and  pro- 
tectors, not  as  their  plunderers  and  tyrants ;  also  the  most  sacred 
regard  should  be  had  not  to  injure  the  institutions  of  their  religion, 
thereby  shewing  them  we  had  a  proper  respect  to  all  things  in  any 
way  .connected  with  the  worship  of  the  Deity,  while  at  the  same  time 
we  permitted  every  man  to  adore  Him  agreeably  to  the  dictates  of  his 
own  judgment. 

Z.   M.   Pike, 

Captain,  First  United  States  Regiment  of  Infantry. 

Washington, 
1 2  th  April,  1808. 


APPENDIX. 


(No.  I.) 
To  General  Wilkinson. 

St.  Charles,  ijtA  July,  1806. 
Dear  Sir, 
WE  arrived  here  last  evening  all  well,  except  some  of  the  soldiers  from  fatigue, 
as  in  the  present  state  of  the  water  we  were  obliged  to  row  altogether. 

We  were  disappointed  in  not  obtaining  any  information  from  St.  Louis,  or  bag- 
gage for  the  Pawnees.     I  do  not  know  how  it  will  be  digested  by  them. 

*  *  *  *  *  *  *  * 

We  likewise  were  disappointed  in  not  receiving  a  line  from  you,  as  we  had  expected, 
in  the  hopes  of  which  I  shall  yet  detain  until  twelve  o'clock,  and  then  take  my  depart- 
ure. Our  Osage  conduct  themselves  pretty  well,  and  are  very  obedient  to  orders; 
at  first  they  had  an  idea  a  little  too  free  relative  to  other  people's  property,  but  at 
present  stand  corrected. 

I  understood  from  you  that  they  were  equipped  by  Mr.  Tillier;  with  everything 
necessary  for  their  voyage  to  their  towns,  consequently,  although  they  have  been 
applying  to  me  for  a  variety  of  articles,  none  of  which  they  have  been  gratified  with, 
but  powder  and  ball,  which  are  necessary  for  their  own  defence. 

The  General  will  pardon  this  scrawl,  and  should  he  send  an  express  after  us,  will 
please  to  let  Mrs.  Pike  know  of  the  opportunity. 

I  am,  dear  Sir, 

With  high  respect. 

Your  obedient  servant, 
(Signed)  Z.  M.  Pike. 


(No.  II.) 
To  General  Wilkinson.  » 

St.  Charles,  \f)th  July,  1806. — In  the  morning. 
Dear   General, 
ENCLOSED  you  have  one  of  the  articles,  subscribed  by  Mr.  Henry,  mentioned 
in  my  note  of  yesterday.     I  hope  the  General  may  approve  of  the  contents. 

353 


354  APPENDIX. 

Lieutenant  Wilkinson  and  Dr.  Robinson  marched  (with  one  soldier)  this  morning, 
and  the  boats  have  proceeded  under  the  conduct  of  Bellenger;  I  shall  overtake  them 
in  an  hour  or  two: 

Numerous  reports  have  been  made  to  the  Indians,  calculated  to  impress  them, 
with  an  idea  that  there  is  a  small  army  of  their  enemies  waiting  to  receive  us  at  the 
entrance  of  the  Grand  Osage.  But  I  have  partly  succeeded  in  scouting  the  idea  from 
their  minds. 

No  news  of  Chouteau  nor  the  Pawnees'  trunks. 

I  am,  dear  General, 
I  Your  obedient  servant, 

(Signed)  Z.  M.  Pike. 


(No.  III.) 
To  General  Wilkinson. 

Village  de  Charette,  evening  of  the  22d  July,  1806. 
Dear  Sir, 
FINDING  no  prospect  of  meeting  with  a  private  conveyance  for  our  letters,  in 
time  sufficient  to  find  you  previous  to  your  setting  sail,  which  would  be  entirely  too 
late  to  secure  my  deserter,  and  give  you  the  other  information  they  contain,  I  have 
hired  the  bearer  to  ride  express  to  Belle  Fontaine,  for  which  I  have  promised  him 
eight  dollars;  which,  taking  into  view  his  ferriages,  &c.,  cannot  be  deemed  high,  and 
I  hope  the  General  will  please  to  order  the  military  agent  to  discharge  the  same. 

The  weather  has  at  length  become  settled,  and  we  set  sail  to-morrow  with  our 
boats  newly,  and. much  better,  arranged. 

I  am,  General,  with  sincere  esteem. 
And  high  respect. 

Your  obedient  servant, 

(Signed)  Z.  M.  Pike. 

To  General  Wilkinson. 

Village  de  Charette,  zid  July,  1806. 
Dear  General, 

I  HAVE  the  honour  to  acknowledge  the  receipt  of  your  two  obliging  favours 
of  the  i8th  and  19th  instant,  the  particular  contents  of  each  shall  be  punctually 
attended  to. 

I  assure  you,  Sir,  that  I  am  extremely  pleased  with  the  idea  that  Messrs. 

and —  will  meet  with  their  merited  reward,  and  I  on  my  part,  am  determined 

to  shew  them  that  it  is  not  their  sinister  movements  that  can  derange  the  objects  of 
our  voyage;  the  greatest  embarrassment  they  have  yet  occasioned  me  has  been  by 
the  detention  of  the  Pawnees'  baggage,  who  have  been  much  mortified  on  the  occa- 
sion. But  I  question  much  if  under  similar  impressions  and  circumstances,  many 
white  men  would  have  borne  their  loss  with  more  philosophy  than  our  young  savages.. 


APPENDIX.  355 

« 

I  conceive  that  I  cannot  dispose  of  one  of  my  guns  better  than  to  give  it  to 
Frank,  whose  fusee  was  left  at  Chouteau's  ;  also,  each  of  them  a  soldier's  coat ; 
this  is  all  the  remuneration  I  will  pretend  to  make  them,  and  I  hope  it  may  bring 
them  to  a  good  humour. 

You  will  probably  be  surprised  at  the  slow  progress  we  have  made,  but  are 
already  informed  of  the  cause  of  our  detention  at  St.  Charles.  We  have  since  been 
detained  two  days,  on  account  of  the  rain  ;  and  although  we  were  able  to  prevent  the 
water  from  entering  immediately  on  the  top  of  the  boat  where  it  was  covered,  yet  the 
quantity  which  she  made  at  both  ends  occasioned  so  much  dampness  under  the 
loading  as  to  injure  both  my  own  corn  and  that  of  the  Indians,  with  other  small 
articles,  which  they  had  at  various  times  taken  from  under  the  loading,  and  not 
returned  to  their  proper  places;  but  they  appear  satisfied  that  we  have  paid  all 
possible  attention  to  prevent  injury,  as  much,  and  indeed  more,  to  their  baggage 
than  our  own. 

In  consequence  of  the  above,  (and  with  a  design  to  write  you,)  I  halted  here  to-day, 
which  I  hope  we  shall  usefully  employ  in  drying  our  baggage,  cleaning  our  arms, 
and  putting  ourselves  in  a  posture  of  defence.  Lieutenant  Wilkinson  has  experienced 
no  inconvenience  from  his  march  by  land  with  the  Indians,  and  the  event  has 
proved  the  necessity  of  some  officer  accompanying  them,  as  he  informs  me  he  found 
it  necessary  to  purchase  some  beeves  for  their  consumption  on  the  route,  for  which 
he  drew  on  the  superintendent  of  Indian  affairs,  and  he  will  write  to  you  more  partic- 
ularly on  the  subject.  They  were  absent  from  the  boat  four  days,  and  had  he  not 
been  with  them,  they  would  have  supplied  themselves  by  marauding,  to  the  great 
offence  of  our  good  citizens. 

I  am  informed  that  a  party  of  forty  Sacs  were  at  Boon's  Lick,  above  the  Osage 
river,  a  few  days  since,  but  I  by  no  means  conceive  on  the  route  to  intercept  us,  as 
the  people  pretend  at  this  place. 

Three  days  since  one  of  my  men  complained  of  indisposition,  and  went  on  shore 
to  march;  he  has  never  joined  the  party,  and  from  various  reasons,  I  conceive  has 
deserted.  I  have  therefore  enclosed  an  advertisement,  which  if  the  General  will 
please  to  cause  to  be  posted  at  St.  Louis,  Kaskaskias,  and  Lusk's  Ferry  on  the 
Ohio,  I  conceive  he  will  be  caught. 

I  have  written  to  Captain  Daniel  Bissell  on  the  occasion,  but  hope  the  General 
will  enforce  my  request  to  that  gentleman,  as  to  his  being  brought  to  trial.  I  was 
much  mortified  at  the  event,  not  only  on  account  of  the  loss  of  the  man,  but  that  my 
peculiar  situation  prevented  me  from  pursuing  him,  and  making  him  an  example. 

With  respect  to  the  letans,  the  General  may  rest  assured  I  shall  use  every  pre- 
caution previous  to  trusting  them,  but  as  to  the  mode  of  conduct  to  be  pursued 
towards  the  Spaniards,  I  feel  more  at  a  loss,  as  my  instructions  lead  me  into  the 
country  of  the  letans,  part  of  which  is  no  doubt  claimed  by  Spain,  although  the 
boundaries  between  Louisiana  and  New  Mexico  have  never  yet  been  defined.  In 
consequence  of  which,  should  I  encounter  a  party  from  the  villiages  near  Santa  Fe,  I 
have  thought  it  would  be  good  policy  to  give  them  to  understand,  that  we  were  about 


356  APPENDIX. 

to  join  our  troops  near  Natchitoches,  but  had  been  uncertain  about  the  head  waters 
of  the  rivers  over  which  we  passed;  but,  that  vow,  if  the  Commandant  approved  of  it, 
we  would  pay  him  a  visit  of  politeness,  either  by  deputation,  or  the  whole  party,  but  if 
he  refused,  signify  our  intention  of  pursuing  our  direct  route  to  the  post  below.  At  all 
events  I  flatter  myself  I  may  secure  an  unmolested  retreat  to  Natchitoches.  But  if 
the  Spanish  jealousy,  and  the  instigation  of  domestic  traitors,  should  induce  them  to 
make  us  prisoners  of  war,  (in  time  of  peace,)  I  trust  to  the  magnanimity  of  our 
country  for  our  liberation,  and  a  due  reward  to  their  opposers,  for  the  insult  and 
indignity  offered  their  national  honour.  However,  unless  they  give  us  ample 
assurances  of  just  and  honourable  treatment,  according  to  the  custom  of  nations  in  like 
cases,  I  would  resist,  if  even  the  inequality  was  as  great  as  at  the  affair  of  Bender, 
or  the  Straits  of  Thermopylae. 

Will  you  pardon  the  foregoing  as  the  enthusiasm  of  a  youthful  mind,  yet,  not 
altogether  unimpressed  by  the  dictates  of  prudence. 

I  hope  the  General  will  be  persuaded,  that  with  his  son,  I  shall  act  as  I  would  to 
a  brother,  endeavouring  in  all  cases  to  promote  his  honour  and  prosperity. 

I  am,  dear  General, 

Your  sincere  friend. 

And  obedient  humble  servant, 

(Signed)  Z.  M.  Pike. 

N.  B.     In  consequence  of  indisposition,  &c.,    Lieutenant  Wilkinson  will    steer 
one  boat  and  I  the  other. 


(No.  IV.) 
To  General  James  Wilkinson. 

Five  leagues  below  the  River  Osage,  26th  July,  1806. 
Dear  General, 
I  HALT  a  moment,  in  order   to  say  we  have  arrived  thus  far  all  safe,  although 
our  savages  complain  much  of  fatigue,  &c. 

The  bearer  had  been  sent  by  Mr.  Sangonet  to  examine  the  Osage  river,  and 
reports  that  they  could  not  get  their  canoes  up  the  river  more  than  sixty  miles;  if  so, 
we  have  a  bad  prospect  before  us;  but  go  we  will,  if  God  permits. 

I  am,  dear  General, 

Your  obedient  servant, 

(Signed)  Z.  M.  Pike. 

We   have  been    detained  several  days  by  the  Indians. 


To  General  James  Wilkinson. 


(No.  V.) 

Park  on  the  Osage  river,  i^th  Aug.,  1806. 


Dear  Sir, 

BY  Baptiste  la  Tulip  I  send  this  letter,  who  informs  me  he  bears  letters  to   Chou- 
teau, informing  him  that  a  party  of  the  Little  Osages  have  marched  to    war  against 


APPENDIX.  357 

the  Kanses,  and  a  party  of  the  Grand  Osages  left  the  village  expressly  to  make  war 
on  the  white  people  on  the  Arkansaw.  This  latter  step  the  White  Hair  did  every 
thing  in  his  power  to  prevent,  but  could  not.  If  true,  what  are  we  to  think  of  our 
bons  amis  the  Osage  ? 

But  to must  we  ascribe  the  stroke  against  the  Kanses,  who  I  am  informed 

sent  a  message  to  the  Osage  nation  to  raze  the  Kanses  village  entirely.  On  this 
subject  I  intended  to  have  been  more  particular,  and  substantiate  it  by  proofs;  but 
present  circumstances  seem  to  give  credibility  to  it.  On  my  arrival  at  the  village 
more  particular  enquiry  shall  be  made  on  the  subject. 

Yesterday  morning  Lieutenant  Wilkinson,  the  Doctor,  interpreter,  and  one  soldier, 
marched  with  the  Indians,  as  they  were  very  apprehensive  of  an  attack.  The  people 
in  the  canoe  heard  them  crying,  and  saw  them  on  their  march. 

Nothing  extraordinary  has  yet  taken  place  on  our  route,  except  our  being  favoured 
with  a  vast  quantity  of  rain,  which  I  hope  will  enable  us  to  ascend  to  the  village. 

What  face  will  the  Indians  receive  us  with?  and  to  whom  are  we  to  ascribe  their 
hostile  disposition,  unless  the  traitors  of  St.  Louis? 

Lieutenant  Wilkinson  is  in  very  good  health,  and  will  lament  his  having  missed 
this  opportunity  of  assuring  his  parents  of  his  love  and  affection. 

I  am,  dear  General, 

Your  obedient  servant, 
(Signed)  Z.  M.  Pike. 


(No.  vi.y 

To  Lieutenant  Pike. 

Cantonment,  Missouri,  August  6,  1806. 
Sir. 

IN  consequence  of  the  receipt  of  the  inclosed  letters,  I  have  thought  proper  to 
send  you  an  express,  to  enable  you  to  announce  to  the  Osage  the  designs  of  their  ene- 
mies, that  they  may  take  seasonable  measures  to  circumvent  them.  You  will  not  fail, 
in  addition  to  the  within  talk,  to  enhance  our  paternal  regard  for  this  nation,  by  every 
proper  expression;  but  are  to  keep  clear  of  any  conflict  in  which  they  may  be  involved, 
though  you  are  to  avoid  the  appearance  of  abandoning  them.  If  it  should  be  the 
Potowatomies'  intention  to  carry  their  threat  into  execution,  it  is  probable  they  will 
not  attempt  to  make  the  blow  before  the  falling  of  the  leaves,  and  in  the  meantime 
the  Osages  should  establish  a  chain  of  light  scouts  along  the  coast  of  the  Missouri,  to 
ascertain  with  certainty  the  approach  of  their  enemy. 

It  is  reduced  to  a  certainty  that and  a  society  of  which  he  is  the  ostensible 

leader,  have  determined  on  a  project  to  open  some  commercial  intercourse  with  Santa 
Fe,  and  as  this  may  lead  to  a  connection  injurious  to  the  United  States,  and  will,  I 
understand,- be  attempted  without  the  sanctidn  of  law  or  the  permission  of  the  execu- 
tive, you  must  do  what,  consistently,  you  can  to  defeat  the  plan.  No  good  can  be 
derived  to  the  United  States  from  such  a  project,  because  the    prosecution  of   it  will 


358  APPENDIX. 

depend  entirely  on  the  Spaniards,  and  they  will  not  permit  it,  unless  to  serve  their 
political  as  well  as  their  personal  interests.  I  am  informed  that  the  ensuing  autumn 
and  winter  will  be  employed  in  reconnoitring  and  opening  a  connection  with  the 
letans,  Pawnees,  &c. ;  that  this  fall,  or   the   next  winter,  a   grand    magazine   is  to  be 

established  at  the  Osage  towns,  where  these   operations   will   commence;  that  — 

is  to  be  the  active  agent,  having  formed  a  connection  with  the  letans.  This  will  carry 
forward  their  merchandize  within  three  or  four  days'  travel  of  the  Spanish  settlements, 

where  they  will  deposit  it,  under  a  guard  of   three  hundred  letans. •  will  then 

go  forward  with  four  or  five  attendants,  taking  with  him  some  jewelry  and  fine  goods. 
With  these  he  will  visit  the  Governor,  to  whom  he  will  make  presents,  and  implore  his 
pity  by  a  fine  tale  of  sufferings  which  have  been  endured  by  the  change  of  govern- 
ment: that  they  are  left  here,  with  goods  to  be  sure,  but  not  a  dollar's  worth  of  bull- 
ion, and  therefore  they  have  adventured  to  see  him,  for  the  purpose  o*  praying  his 
leave  for  the  introduction  of  their  property  into  the  province.     If    he  assents,  then  the 

whole  of  the  goods  will  be  carried  forward;  if  he  refuses,  then will  invite  some 

of  his  countrymen  to  accompany  him  to  his  deposit,  and  having  there  exposed  to  them 
his  merchandize,  he  will  endeavour  to  open  a  forced  or  clandestine  trade;  for  he 
observes  the  Spaniards  will  not  dare  to  attack  his  camp.  Here  you  have  the  plan, 
and  you  must  take  all  prudent  and  lawful  means  to  blow  it  up. 

In  regard  to  your  approximation  to  the  Spanish  settlements,  should  your  route 
lead  you  near  them,  or  should  you  fall  in  with  any  of  their  parties,  your  conduct  must 
be  marked  by  such  circumspection  and  discretion,  as  may  prevent  alarm  or  conflict, 
as  you  will  be  held  responsible  for  consequences.  On  this  subject  I  refer  you  to  my 
orders.  We  have  nothing  new  respecting  the  pending  negotiations  in  Europe,  but 
from  Colonel  Gushing  I  understand  the  Spaniards  below  are  behaving  now  with  great 
courtesy. 

By  the  return  of  the  bearer  you  may  open  your  correspondence  with  the  secre- 
tary of  war;  but  I  would  caution  you  against  anticipating  a  step  before  you,  for  fear 
of  deception  and  disappointment.  To  me  you  may,  and  must,  write  fully  and  freely, 
not  only  giving  a  minute  detail  of  every  thing  past  worthy  of  note,  but  also  of  your 
prospects  and  the  conduct  of  the  Indians.  If  you  discover  that  any  tricks  have  been 
played  from  St.  Louis,  you  will  give  them  to  me  with  names,  and  must  not  fail  to 
give  particulars  to  the  secretary  of  war,  with  names,  to  warn  him  against  improper 
confidence  and  deception.  Enclose  your  despatch  for  me  to  Colonel  Hunt,  and  it  will 
follow  me  by  a  party  which  I  leave  for  the  purpose.  It  is  interesting  to  you  to 
reach  Natchitoches  in  season  to  be  at  the  seat  of  government  pending  the  session  of 
Congress;  yet  you  must  not  sacrifice  any  essential  object  to  this  point.  Should  fortune 
favour  you  on  your  present  excursion,  your  importance  to  our  country  will,  I  think, 
make  your  future  life  comfortable. 

To  shew  you  how  to  correct  your  watch  by  the  quadrant,  after  it  has  been  care- 
fully adjusted,  preparatory  to  your  observing  on  the  eclipses  of  the  satellites  of  Jupi- 
ter, I  send  you  a  very  simple  plan,  which  you,  will  readily  understand  :  a  bason  of 
water,  in  some  place  protected  from  the  motion  of  the  air,  will  give  you  a  fairer  arti- 
ficial horizon  than  Mercury.      I  think  a  tent,  with  a  suitable  aperture  in  the  side  of  it, 


APPENDIX.  359 

would  do  very  well.  I  have  generally  unroofed  a  cabin.  Miranda  has  botched  his 
business.  He  has  lost  his  two  schooners  captured,  and  himself  in  the  Leander 
returned  to  Jamaica.  The  French  have  a  squadron  of  four  frigates  at  Porto  Rico,  and 
•of  five  sail  of  the' line  with  Jerome  Bonaparte  at  Martinique.     1  consider  them  lost. 

Your  children  have  been  indisposed  ;  but  Mrs.  Pike  writes  you.      She  appears 
well.     My  regards  to  your  associates,  and  may  God  protect  you. 

(Signed)  J.  Wilkinson. 


(No.  VII.) 
To  General  Wilkinson. 

Camp  Independence,  near  the  Osage  Towns,  August  28,  1806. 
Dear  General, 

YOU  will,  no  doubt,  be  much  surprised  to  perceive  by  the  date  of  this  letter  that 
we  are  still  here  :  but  we  have  been  unavoidably  detained  by  a  variety  of  circum- 
stances. 

I  had  the  happiness  to  receive  your  express  the  day  of  my  arrival,  the  bearer  hav- 
ing arrived  the  night  before,  and  have  attended  particularly  to  its  contents. 

On  the  19  inst.  I  delivered  your  parole  to  the  Cheveu  Blanc,  and  on  the  21st  held 
a  grand  council  of  both  towns,  and  made  the  necessary  communications  and  demands 
for  horses,  on  the  subject  of  making  peace  with  the  Kanses,  accompanying  me  to  the 
Pawnees,  down  the  Arkansaw,  and  if  there  were  any  brave  enough  to  accompany  me 
the  whole  voyage. 

They  requested  one  day  to  hold  council  in  the  villages  previous  to  giving  an 
answer.  Three  days  passed  before  I  received  any;  their  determination  was  as  fol- 
lows:— From  the  Grand  Osage  village,  or  the  Cheveu  Blanc,  we  are  accompanied  by 
his  son,  and  Jean  Le  Fou,  the  second  chief  of  the  village,  with  some  young  men  not 
known,  and  he  furnishes  us  four  horses. 

The  Little  Osage  send  the  bro.ther  of  the  chief  (whom  I  really  find  to  be  the  third 
chief  of  the  village)  and  some  young  men  unknown,  and  furnish  six  horses! !  •  This  is 
their  present  promise,  but  lOur  of  the  ten  are  yet  deficient.  With  these  I  am  merely  capa- 
ble of  transporting  our  merchandize  and  ammunition.  I  shall  purchase  two  more,  for 
which  I  find  we  shall  be  obliged  to  pay  extravagant  prices. 

I  sincerely  believe  that  the  two  chiefs.  White  Hair  and  The  Wind,  have  exerted 
all  their  influence;  but  it  must  be  but  little  when  they  could  only  procure  ten  horses 
out  of  seven  or  eight  hundred. 

I  have  taken  an  exact  survey  of  the  river  to  this  place,  noting  particular  streams, 
&c.,  a  protracted  copy  of  which  Lieutenant  Wilkinson  forwards  by  this  opportunity. 
Since  our  arrival  here  I  have  ascertained  the  variation  of  the  compass  to  be  6°  30'  E., 
the  latitude,  by  means  of  several  observations,  37°  26'  17"  N.,  and  by  an  observation 
of  three  different  nights,  obtained  two  immersions  of  Jupiter's  satellites,  which  will 
enable  us  to  ascertain  every  geographical  object  in  view. 


36o     ,  APPENDIX. 

On  the  same  night  I  arrived  near  the  village,  there  was  a  Mr.  Baptiste  Du  Chou- 
quet,  alias  Larme,  with  two  men,  arrived  in  a  small  canoe,  and  went  immediately  to 
the  lodge  of  the  White  Hair,  whose  conduct,  with  that  of  our  resident  interpreter, 
appears  (in  my  estimation)  to  have  changed  since  I  sent  Lieutenant  Wilkinson  to 
demand  to  see  Baptiste's  passport,  if  he  had  one:  if  not,  to  bring  him  to  camp,  which 
was  done.  I  detained  him  two  days,  until  I  had  made  an  enquiry  of  White  Hair,  who 
said  he  had  merely  mentioned  to  him  that  Labardie  was  coming  with  a  quantity  of 
goods.  Finding  I  could  substantiate  nothing  more  criminal  against  him  than  his  hav- 
ing entered  the  Indian  boundaries  without  a  passport,  and  not  being  able  to  send  him 
back  a  prisoner,  I  detained  him  a  sufficient  time  to  alarm  him,  and  then  took  his  dep- 
osition (a  copy  of  which  is  enclosed  to  the  attorney-general),  and  wrote  Dr.  Brown  on 
the  occasion,  and  requested  him  to  enter  a  prosecution  against  these  men. 

Barroney  informs  me  that  he  has  not  the  least  doubt  but was  at  the  bot- 
tom of  this  embassy,  although  in  the  name  of  ,  as  after  the  arrival  of  Baptiste, 

the  Indians  frequently  spoke  of ,  and  declared,  if  he  had  come,  he  could  have 

obtained  horses  plenty. 

Our  interpreter,  also,  (Maugraine,)  I  do  believe  to  be  a  perfect  creature  of ; 

he  has  almost  positively  refused  to  accompany  me,  (although  I  read  your  order  on  the 
subject,)  alleging  he  was  only  engaged  to  interpret  at  this  place,  notwithstanding  he 
went  last  year  to  the  Arkansaw  for  Mr.  Chouteau  without  difficulty.  I  have  not  yet 
determined  on  the  line  of  conduct  to  be  pursued  with  him,  but  believe,  on  his  giving 
a  positive  refusal,  I  shall  use  military  law.  What  the  result  will  be  is  uncertain;  but 
to  be  thus  braved  by  a  scoundrel  will  be  lessening  the  dignity  of  our  government.  He 
is  married  into  a  powerful  family,  and  appears,  next  to  the  White  Hair,  to  have  the 
most  influence  in  the  Grand  village.  The  General  will  please  to  observe  that  much 
of  the  foregoing  rests  on  conjecture,  and  therefore  will  give  it  its  due  weight.  But 
to  him  I  not  only  write  as  my  General,  but  as  a  paternal  friend,  who  wolild  not  make 
use  of  my  open  communications,  when  not  capable  of  being  substantiated  by  proofs. 

We  have  fieard  nothing  of  the  Potowatomies ;  but  should  they  come  in  a  few 
days,  they  will  meet  with  a  warm  reception,  as  all  are  ready  to  receive  them. 

Since  my  arrival  here  many  Spanish  medals  have  been  shown  me,  and  some  com- 
missions. All  I  have  done  on  the  subject  is  merely  to  advise  their  delivery  below, 
when  they  would  be  acknowledged  by  our  government.  Many  have  applied  for  per- 
mission to  go  to  Saint  Louis,  none  of  which  I  have  granted,  except  to  the  son  of  Sans 
Oreille,  who  goes  down  to  make  enquiry  for  his  sister. 

I  have  advanced  our  express  some  things  on  account,  and  forward  his  receipts  ; 
also,  some  trifles  to  Barroney,  whom  I  have  found  to  be  one  of  the  finest  young  men 
I  ever  knew  in  his  situation,  and  appears  to  have  entirely  renounced  all  his  Saint  Louis 
connections,  and  is  as  firm  an  American  as  if  born  one:  he  of  course  is  entirely  dis- 
carded by  the  people  of  Saint  Louis,  but  I  hope  he  will  not  suffer  for  his  fidelity. 

On  the  chart  forwarded  by  Lieutenant  Wilkinson  is  noted  the  census  which  I 
caused  to  be  taken  of  the  village  of  the  Little  Osage;  that  of  the  Grand  Osage  I  shall 
likewise  obtain — they  are  from  actual  enumeration.      Lieutenant    Wilkinson    will    (if 


APPENDIX.  361 

nothing  extraordinary  prevents)  descend  the  Arkansaw,  accompanied  by  Ballenger 
and  two  men,  as  the  former  is  now  perfectly  acquainted  with  the  mode  of  taking 
courses  and  protracting  his  route,  and  the  latter  appears  as  if  he  had  not  the  proper 
capacity  for  it,  although  a  good  dispositioned  and  brave  man. 

I  am,  dear  sir, 
•  Your  obedient  servant, 

(Signed)  Z.  M.  Pike. 

To  General  Wilkinson, 

zgiA  August,  1806. 
Dear  Sir, 

I  WILL  continue  my  communications,  by  relating  that  The  Wind  has  come  in  and 
informed  me  that  the  other  two  horses  which  he  promised  have  been  withdrawn  by 
their  owners.  He  appeared  really  distressed,  and  I  conceive  I  do  him  justice  in 
believing  that  he  is  extremely  mortified  at  the  deceptions  which  have  been  passed  on 
him. 

It  is  with  extreme  pain  I  keep  myself  coo/  amongst  the  difficulties  which  these 
people  appear  to  have  a  disposition  to  throw  in  my  way;  but  I  have  declared  to  them 
that  I  shall  go  on,  even  if  I  collect  our  tents  and  other  baggage  (which  we  shall  be 
obliged  to  leave  together)  and  burn  them  on  the  spot. 

I  have  sold  the  batteau  which  I  brought  up  (and  which  was  extremely  rotten) 
for  one  hundred  dollars,  in  merchandize,  the  price  of  this  place,  which  I  conceive  was 
preferable  to  leaving  her  to  destruction,  as  I  am  afraid  I  do  the  barge  (for  which  I 
demanded  one  hundred  and  fifty  dollars),  although  I  leave  her  under  charge  of  The 
Wind  and  shall  report  her  to  Colonel  Hunt. 

I  shall  despatch  the  express  to-morrow,  as  he  complains  much  of  the  detention, 
&c.,  and  as  I  hope  nothing  worthy  of  note  will  occur  at  this  place  previous  to  our 
departure,  I  hope  the  General  will  believe  me  to  be,  and  should  this  be  my  last  report 
to  have  been,  his  sincerely  attached  friend  and 

*  Obedient  servant, 

(Signed)  Z.  M.  Pike. 

To  General  J.  Wilkinson* 

Osage  Towns,  ^oth  August,  1 806. 
Dear  Sir,  '  « 

I  HAVE  brought  Mr.  Noal,  alias  Maugraine,  to  reason,  and  he  either  goes  him- 
self or  hires,  at  his  expence,  a  young  man  who  is  here  who  speaks  the  Pawnees  lan- 
guage, and  in  many  other  respects  is  preferable  to  himself;  but  he  will  be  the  bearer 
of  the  express  to  Saint  Louis. 

The  Cheveu  Blanc  requested  me  to  inform  you  that  there  is  a  murderer  (an 
Osage)  in  his  village,  who  killed  a  Frenchman  on  the  Arkansaw;  but  owing  to  the 
great  dissensions  and  schisms  of  the  Arkansaw  faction,  he  is  fearful  to  deliver  him 
up,  without  some  of  his  friends  having  agreed  to  it,  and  his  authority  being  strength- 
ened by  a  formal  demand  from  you,  when  he  assures  me  he  shall  be  brought  down   a 


362  APPENDIX. 

» 

prisoner.  Indeed  the  Cheveu  Blanc  appears  to  be  very  delicately  situated,  as  the  vil- 
lage on  the  Arl^ansaw  serves  as  a  place  of  refuge  for  all  the  young,  daring,  and  dis- 
contented; and  added  to  which,  they  are  much  more  regularly  supplied  with  ammu- 
nition, and,  should  not  our  government  take  some  steps  to  prevent  it,  they  will  ruin 
the  Grand  village,  as  they  are  at  liberty  to  make  war  without  restraint,  especially  on 
the  nations  who  are  to  the  west,  and  have  plenty  of  horses.  The  Chief  says. he  was 
promised,  at  Washington,  that  these  people  should  be  brought  back  to  join  him;  but, 
at  present,  many  of  his  village  are  emigrating  there. 

Owing  to  the  difficulty  of  obtaining  horses,  Mr.  Henry  returns   from    this  place. 
In  descending  the  Mississippi  I  will  request  him  to  pay  his  respects  to  you. 
I  last  evening  took  the  census  of  the  Grand  village,  and  found  it  to  be 

Men   502 

Boys 341 

Women  and  Girls 852 

Total 1 ,69s 

Lodges 214 


The  express  waits,  which  I  hope  the  General   will  accept  as  an  excuse  for  this 
scrawl,  having  witten  him  fully  on  the  28th  and  29th  inst. 

I  am,  dear  General, 

Your  ever  sincere  friend  and  obedient  servant, 

(Signed)  Z.  M.  Pike,  Lt. 


(No.  VIII.) 

To  the  Hon.  Henry  Dearborn,  Secretary  War  Department. 

•  Pawnee  Republic,  ist  Oct.,  1806. 

Sir, 

WE  arrived  here  on  the  25th  ult.  after  a  tedious  march  of  three  hundred  and 
seventy-five  miles,  the  distance  (as  I  conceive)  being  very  much  augmented  by  the 
Osages,  who  accompanied  us,  leading  us  too  far  to  the  south,  owing  to  their  great 
fear  of  the  Kansgs.  We  suffered  considerably  with  thirst,  but  our  guns  furnished  us 
amply  with  buffalo  meat. 

We  delivered  in  safety,  to  the  Chief,  the  two  young  Pawnees  who  had  lately 
visited  Washington,  and  caused  to  be  explained  to  the  nation,  the  parole  which  they 
bore  from  the  President  of  the  United  States. 

On  our  arrival,  we  found  the  Spanish  and  American  flags  both  expanded  in  the 
village,  and  were  much  surprised  to  learn,  that  it  was  not  more  than  three  or  four 
weeks,  since  a  party  of  Spanish  troops  (w-hose  number  were  estimated  by  the  Indians 
of  this  town  at  three  hundred)  had  returned  to  Santa  Fe;  and  further  learnt  that  a 
large  body  of  troops  had  left  New  Mexico,  and  on  their  march  had  met  with  the  vil- 
lagers of  the  Pawnee  Mahaws,  who  were  on  one  of  their  semi-annual  excursions;  that 


APPENDIX.  363 

they  encamped  together,  and  entered  into  a  treaty;  but  after  this,  the  Pawnees  raised 
their  camp  in  the  night,  and  stole  a  large  portion  of  the  Spaniards'  horses.  This  cir- 
cumstance induced  them  to  halt  on  the  Arkansaw  with  the  main  body  of  the  troops, 
and  to  send  forward  the  party  who  appeared  at  this  village;  who  proposed  to  this 
Chief  to  join  a  party  of  his  warriors  to  their  troops,  march  to  and  entirely  destroy  the 
village  of  the  Pawnee  Mahaws;  this  proposition  he  had  prudence  enough  to  reject, 
although  at  war  with  that  nation.  The  Spanish  officer  informed  him  that  his  superior, 
who  remained  at  the  Arkansaw,  had  marched  from  Santa  Fe,  with  an  intention  of 
entering  into  a  treaty  with  the  following  nations  of  Indians,  viz. :  The  Kanses,  the 
Pawnee  Republic,  the  Grand  Pawnees,  Pawnee  Loups,  Otoes,  and  Mahaws;  and  had 
with  him  a  grand  medal,  commissions,  and  four  mules  for  each;  but  by  the  stroke  of 
the  Pawnee  Mahaws,  the  plan  was  disconcerted,  except  only  as  to  this  nation.  The 
commissions  are  dated  Santa  Fe,  15th  June,  1806,  and  signed  Governor  General,  &c., 
&c.,  of  New  Mexico,  and  run  in  the  usual  style  of  Spanish  commissions  to  savages,  as 
far  as  I  was  capable  of  judging  of  their  contents. 

The  Chief  further  informed  me,  that  the  officer  who  commanded  the  said  party, 
was  too  young  to  hold  councils,  &c.;  that  he  had  only  come  to  open  the  road,  but  that  in 
the  spring  his  superior  would  be  here,  and  teach  the  Indians  what  was  good  for  them; 
and  that  they  would  build  a  town  near  them.  In  short,  it  appears  tome  to  have  been 
an  expedition  expressly  for  the  purpose  of  striking  a  dread  into  those  different  nations 
of  the  Spanish  power,  and  to  bring  about  a  general  combination  in  their  favour.  Under 
these  impressions,  I  have  taken  the  earliest  opportunity  of  reporting  the  infringe- 
ment of  our  territory,  in  order  that  our  government  may  not  remain  in  the  dark,  as 
to  the  views  of  her  neighbour.  I  effected  a  meeting  at  this  place,  between  a  few 
Kanses  and  Osages,  who  smoked  the  pipe  of  peace  and  buried  the  hatchet,  agreeably 
to  the  wishes  of  their  great  father;  in  consequence  of  which  a  Kans  has  marched  for 
the  Osage  nation,  and  some  of  the  latter  propose  to  accompany  the  former  to  their 
village;  whether  this  good  understanding  will  be  permanent,  I  will  not  take  on  me 
to  determine;  but,  at  least,  a  temporary  good  effect  has  succeeded.  From  the  Osage 
towns,  I  have  taken  the  courses  and  distances,  by  the  route  we  came,  marking  each 
river  or  rivulet  we  crossed,  pointing  out  the  dividing  ridges,  &c.  The  waters  which 
we  crossed  were  the  head  of  the  Osage,  White,  and  Verdigrise  rivers,  (branches  of 
the  Arkansaw,)  and  the  waters  of  the  Kanses  river.  The  latitude  of  this  place,  I  pre- 
sume, will  be  in  about  30°  30'  N.,  and  I  hope  to  obtain  every  other  astronomical  obser- 
vation, which  will  be  requisite  to  fix  its  geographical  situation  beyond  dispute.  I 
expect  to  march  from  here  in  a  few  days,  but  the  future  prospects  of  the  voyage  are 
entirely  uncertain,  as  the  savages  strive  to  throw  every  impediment  in  our  way, 
agreeably  to  the  orders  received  from  the  Spanairds.  Being  seated  on  the  ground, 
and  writing  on  the  back  of  a  book,  I  hope  will  plead  my  excuse  for  this  scrawl. 

I  am,  sir,  with  high  respect, 

Your  obedient  servant, 
(Signed)  Z.  M,  Pike. 


364  APPENDIX. 

To  General  J.  Wilkinson. 

Pawnee  Republic,  id  Oct.,  1806. 
Dear  General, 

INCLOSED  you  have  a  copy  of  my  letter  from  this  place,  to  the  secretary  of 
war,  in  order  that  should  you  think  any  communication  on  the  contents  necessary, 
you  may  have  a  perfect  command  of  the  information  given  the  war  department,  and 
will  be  the  more  capable  of  illustrating  the  subject. 

You  will  perceive  by  the  said  communication,  that  we  were  led  considerably  out 
of  our  course  by  our  guides,  and  in  my  opinion  not  less  than  one  hundred  miles;  this 
was  entirely  owing  to  the  pusillanimity  of  the  Osages,  who  were  more  afraid  of  the 
Kanses  than  I  could  possibly  have  imagined. 

You  will  likewise  perceive  the  council  which  took  place  between  those  nations 
(under  our  auspices)  and  its  effects,  but  which  I  candidly  confess,  I  have  very  little 
hopes  will  be  productive  of  a  permanent  peace,  as  none  of  the  principal  men  of  either 
nation  were  present;  but  as  both  are  anxious  for  a  cessation  of  hostilities,  perhaps  it 
may  have  the  desired  effect. 

Two  of  the  Kanses  chiefs  have  said  they  will  pursue  the  voyage  with  me  agree- 
ably to  my  orders;  I  do  not  yet  know  whether  they  will  descend  the  Arkansaw  with 
Lieutenant  Wilkinson,  or  continue  on  to  Red  river  with  me,  but  they  have  their  own 
selection. 

The  General  will  no  doubt  be  struck  with  some  surprise  to  perceive  that  so  large 
a  party  of  Spanish  troops  have  been  so  lately  in  our  territory;  no  doubt  at  first  you 
would  conclude  that  it  must  have  been  militia;  but  when  informed  that  their  infantry- 
was  armed  with  muskets  and  bayonets,  and  had  drums;  that  the  men  wore  long  mus- 
taches and  whiskers,  which  almost  covered  the  whole  of  their  faces;  their  cavalry 
armed  with  swords  and  pistols,  and  that  regular  guards  and  patroles  were  kept  by 
horse  and  foot,  you  may  probably  change  your  opinion. 

The  route  by  which  they  came,  and  returned,  was  by  no  means  the  direct  one  to 
Santa  Fe,  and  why  they  should  have  struck  so  low  down  as  the  Grand  Saline,  unless 
they  had  an  idea  of  striking  at  the  village  of  the  Grand  Pest,  or  conceived  the  Saline 
in  their  territory,  I  cannot  imagine. 

On  our  arrival  here,  we  were  received  with  great  pomp  and  ceremony,  by  about 
three  hundred  men  on  horseback,  and  with  great  apparent  friendship  by  the  Chief- 
The  Osage  (one  chief  and  four  warriors)  were  presented  with  eight  horses,  the  Kanses 
who  arrived  two  days  after,  were  also  presented  with  horses.  The  day  after,  we 
assembled  the  four  principal  chiefs  to  dine,  after  which,  I  presented  the  Principal  with 
a  double  barrelled  gun,  gorget,  and  other  articles,  (this  man  wore  the  grand  Spanish 
medal,)  and  to  the  second  the  small  medal  you  furnished  me,  with  other  articles;  and 
to  each  of  the  others  a  gorget  in  their  turn.  Those  presents  I  conceived  would  have 
a  good  effect,  both  as  to  attaching  them  to  our  government,  and  in  our  immediate 
intercourse. 

At  the  council,  which  was  held  a  day  or  two  afterwards,  I  presented  them  with 
merchandize,  (which  at  this  place  should  be  valued  at  two  hundred  and  fifty  dollars,) 


APPENDIX.  365 

and  after  explaining  their  relative  situation  as  to  the  Spanish  and  American  govern- 
ments, I  asked  on  my  part,  if  they  would  assist  us  with  a  few  horses,  an  letan  prisoner 
who  spoke  Pawnee,  to  serve  as  an  interpeter,  an  exchange  of  colours,  and  finally,  for 
some  of  their  chiefs  to  accompany  us,  to  be  sent  to  Washington.  The  exchange  of 
the  colours  was  the  only  request  granted  at  the  time;  and  for  particular  reasons 
(which  Lieutenant  Wilkinson  related)  I  thought  proper  to  return  them  to  the  Chief; 
and  after  spending  two  or  three  anxious  days,  we  were  given  to  understand,  that  our 
requests  could  not  be  complied  with  in  the  other  points,  and  were  again  strongly 
urged  by  the  head  Chief  to  return  the  way  we  came,  and  not  prosecute  our  voyage 
any  further.  This  brought  on  an  explanation  as  to  our  views  towards  the  Spanish 
government,  in  which  the  Chief  declared,  that  it  was  the  intention  of  the  Spanish 
troops  to  have  proceeded  further  towards  the  Mississippi,  but  that  he  objected  to  it, 
and  they  listened  to  him  and  returned;  he  therefore  hoped  we  would  be  equally  rea- 
sonable. But  finding  I  still  determined  on  proceeding,  he  told  me  in  plain  terms  (if 
the  interpreter  erred  not)  that  it  was  the  will  of  the  Spaniards  we  should  not  proceed; 
which  not  answering,  he  painted  innumerable  difficulties  which  he  said  lay  in  the 
way;  but  finding  all  his  arguments  had  no  effect,  he  said,  "It  was  a  pity,"  and  was 
silent. 

This  day  I  sent  out  several  of  my  party  to  purchase  horses,  but  know  not  how  we 
shall  succeed,  as  the  Kanses  have  intimated  an  idea,  that  the  Chief  will  prohibit  his 
people  from  trading  with  us. 

The  Pawnees  and  the  letans  are  at  war;  the  latter  killed  six  of  the  former  in 
August  last,  consequently  the  effecting  any  communication  with  the  letans  by  means 
of  this  nation  is  impossible. 

If  God  permits,  we  shall  march  from  here  in  a  few  days,  and  at  the  Arkansaw  I 
shall  remain  until  I  build  two  small  canoes  for  Lieutensnt  Wilkinson  (whose  party 
will  consist  of  Ballenger  and  two  or  three  men,  with  three  Osage).  Those  canoes 
will  be  easily  managed,  and  in  case  of  accident  to  one,  the  other  will  still  be  sufficient 
to  transport  their  baggage. 

I  am  informed,  that  in  a  few  days  he  will  meet  French  hunters,  and  probably 
arrive  at  the  village  of  the  Grand  Pest  in  a  fortnight;  and  as  all  the  Osage  nation  are 
apprized  of  his  descent,  I  conceive  he  will  meet  with  no  insurmountable  difficulties.* 
The  letans  are  at  open  war  with  the  Spaniards,  so  that  could  we  once  obtain  an  intro- 
duction, I  conceive  we  should  meet  with  a  favourable  reception.  Yet  how  it  is  to  be 
brought  about,  I  am  much  at  a  loss  to  determine,  but  knowing  that,  at  this  crisis  of 
affairs,  an  intimate  connection  with  that  nation  might  be  extremely  serviceable  to  my 
country,  I  shall  proceed  to  find  them;  in  hopes  to  discover  some  means  through  the 
French,  Osage,  and  Pawnee  languages,  of  making  ourselves  understood. 

Any  number  of  men  (who  may  reasonably  be  calculated  on)  would  find  no  diffi- 
culty in  marching  the  route  we  came  with  baggage  waggons,  field  artillery,  and  all 
the  usual  appendages  of  a  small  army;  and  if  all  the  route  to  Santa  F6  should  be  of 


•  This  was  erroneous,  but  it  was  my  impression  at  the  time. 


366  APPENDIX. 

the  same  description,  in  case  of  war,  I  would  pledge  my  life  (and  what  is  infinitely 
dearer,  my  honour)  for  the  successful  march  of  a  reasonable  body  of  troops,  into  the 
Province  of  New  Mexico. 

I  find  the  savages  of  this  country  less  brave,  but  possessing  much  more  duplicity, 
and  by  far  a  greater  propensity  to  lying  and  stealing,  than  those  I  had  to  pass  through 
in  my  last  voyage. 

I  am  extremely  doubtful  if  any  chief  of  these  nations  can  be  induced  to  prose- 
cute the  voyage  with  us,  as  their  dread  of  the  letans,  and  the  objections  of  the 
Pawnees,  seem  to  outweigh  every  argument  and  inducement  to  the  contrary. 

October  3</ — The  Pawnee  Chief  has  induced  the  Kanses  to  return  to  their  villages,  by 
giving  them  a  gun  and  promising  horses,  with  many  frightful  pictures  drawn  if  they 
proceeded. 

The  Osages  lent  me  five  horses,  which  their  people  who  accompanied  us  were  to 
have  led  back,  but  receiving  fresh  ones  from  the  Pawnees,  they  would  not  be  troubled 
with  them.  In  fact,  it  was  a  fortunate  circumstance,  as  four  of  the  horses  I  obtained 
of  the  Osage  have  such  bad  backs  they  cannot  proceed,  and  we  shall  be  obliged  to 
leave  them;  and  not  purchasing  here  with  facility,  I  should  have  been  obliged  to  have 
sacrificed  some  of  our  baggage.  I  therefore  sent  them  a  certificate  for  each  horse,  on 
the  Indian  agent  below,  which  I  hope  the  General  will  order  him  to  discharge. 

I  know  the  General's  goodness  will  excuse  this  scrawl,  as  he  is  well  acquainted 
with  the  situation  it  must  be  written  in,  and  at  the  same  time,  believe  me  to  be  his 
sincere  friend  and 

Most  obedient  humble  servant, 
(Signed)  Z.  M.   Pike. 


(No.  IX.)  ' 

To  General  J.  Wilkinson. 

Arkansaw,  2^th  Oct.,  i8o6.     Latitude  37°  44'  9"  N. 
Dear  General, 

OUR  party  arrived  here  on  the  15th  inst.,  myself  and  Dr.  Robinson  on  the 
19th,  we  having  been  out  to  seek  the  trace  of  the  Spanish  troops,  missed  the  party, 
and  were  not  able  to  join  them  until  the  fourth  day. 

The  river  being  very  regular,  Lieutenant  Wilkinson  had  calculated  to  proceed  on 
the  day  following,  on  the  most  direct  route  for  the  Red  river,  but  shortly  after  my 
joining  considerable  rain  fell  and  raised  the  river,  and  we  have  been  ever  since  pre- 
paring wooden  and  skin  canoes  for  that  gentleman  and  party  to  descend  in. 

The  river  is  between  three  and  four  hundred  yards  in  width;  generally  flat  low 
banks,  not  more  than  two  or  three  feet  high,  and  the  bed  a  sand-bank  from  one  'side 
to  the  other. 

The  want  of  water  will  present  the  greatest  obstacle  to  the  progress  of  the  party 
who  descend  the  Arkansaw,  as  they  have    no  cause  tp  fear  a  scarcity  of  provision, 


APPENDIX.  367 

having  some  bushels  of  corn  on  hand,  and  at  their  option  to  take  as  much  dried  meat 
as  they  think  proper,  hundreds  of  pounds  of  which  are  lying  on  scaffolds  at  our  camp; 
and  they  are  likewise  accompanied  by  the  choice  of  our  hunters. 

Under  these  circumstances,  and  those  stated  in  my  letter  from  the  Pawnees,  I  can 
assert  with  confidence,  there  are  no  obstacles  I  should  hesitate  to  encounter,  although 
those  inseparable  from  a  voyage  of  several  hundred  leagues  through  a  wilderness 
inhabited  only  by  savages,  may  appear  of  the  greatest  magnitude  to  minds  unaccus- 
tomed to  such  enterprizes. 

Lieutenant  Wilkinson  and  party  appear  in  good  spirits,  and  shew  a  disposition 
which  must  vanquish  every  difficulty. 

We  were  eight  days  travelling  from  the  Pawnee  village  to  the  Arkansaw,  (our 
general  course  S.  to°  W.,)  several  of  which  we  lay  by  nearly  half,  owing  to  various 
circumstances;  my  course  made  it  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  but  could  now  march 
it  in  one  hundred  and  twenty.  Lieutenant  Wilkinson  has  copied  and  carries  with  him 
a  very  elegant  protracted  sketch  of  the  route,  noting  the  streams,  hills,  &c.,  that  we 
crossed;  their  courses,  bearings,  &c.,  and  should  I  live  to  arrive,  I  will  pledge  myself 
to  shew  their  connections,  and  general  direction  with  considerable  accuracy,  as  I  have 
myself  spared  no  pains  in  reconnoitring  or  obtaining  information  from  the  savages  in 
our  route. 

From  this  point,  we  shall  ascend  the  river  until  we  strike  the  mountains,  or  find 
the  letans;  and  from  thence  bear  more  to  the  S.  until  we  find  the  head  of  the  Red 
river,  where  we  shall  be  detained  some  time,  after  which  nothing  shall  cause  a  halt 
until  my  arrival  at  Natchitoches. 

I  speak  in  all  these  cases  in  the  positive  mood,  as,  so  far  as  lies  in  the  compass  of 
human  exertions,  we  command  the  power;  but  I  pretend  not  to  surmount  impossibil- 
ities, and  I  well  know  the  General  would  pardon  my  anticipating  a  little  to  him. 

The  General  will  probably  be  surprised  to  find  that  the  expenses  of  the  expedi- 
tion will  more  than  double  the  contemplated  sum  of  our  first  calculations,  but  I  con- 
ceived the  Spaniards  were  making  such  great  exertions  to  debauch  the  minds  of  our 
savages,  that  economy  might  be  very  improperly  applied.  And  I  likewise  have  found 
the  purchase  of  horses  to  be  attended  with  much  greater  expense  than  was  expected 
at  St.  Louis.  For  these  reasons,  and  when  I  advert  to  the  expenses  of  my  two  voy- 
ages, (which  I  humbly  conceive  might  be  compared  with  the  one  performed  by 
Captains  Lewis  and  Clark,)  and  the  appropriations  made  for  theirs,  I  feel  a  conscious- 
ness, that  it  is  impossible  for  the  most  rigid  to  censure  my  accounts. 

I  cannot  yet  say  if  I  shall  sacrifice  my  horses  at  Red  river,  but  every  exertion  shall 
be  made  to  save  them  for  the  public;  some  if  in  good  condition  would  be  fine  ones, 
and  average  between  fifty  and  sixty  dollars.  Should  the  fortune  of  war  at  length 
honour  me  with  a  company,  I  hope  the  General  will  recollect  his  promise  to  me,  and 
have  the  men  now  under  my  command  attached  to  it;  and  on  my  arrival  I  shall  take 
the  liberty  of  soliciting  his  influence,  that  they  may  obtain  the  same,  or  similar 
rewards,  to   those  conferred  on  the  men  who  accompanied  Captain  Lewis,   as   I  will 


36S  APPENDIX. 

make  bold  to  say,  that  they  have  in  two  voyages,  incurred  as  great  dangers,  and  gone 
through  as  many  hardships. 

I  am,  dear  General, 
Your  ever  attached  friend  and  obedient  servant, 

Z.  M.  Pike. 

N.  B.     Dr.   Robinson  presents   his  respectful  compliments,  and   is  sanguine  in 
the  success  of  our  expedition. 


(No.  X.) 

The  following  report  was  written  by  Lieutenant  Wilkinson  at  a  time  when  it  was 
expected  I  had  been  cut  off  by  the  savages.  In  consequence  of  which  it  alludes 
to  transactions  relative  to  the  expedition  previously  to  our  separation,  which  I  have 
since  corrected,  but  the  adventures  of  his  party  after  our  separation  arg  given  in  his 
own  words. 

Z.  M.  Pike. 
To  His  Excellency  General  Wilkinson,  » 

Commander  in  Chief  of  the  United  States'  Army. 

New  Orleans,  April  6th,  1807. 
Sir, 

AGREEABLY  to  your  order  dated  in  June,  1806,  I  took  my  departure  from  Belle 
Fontaine,  under  the  command  of  Lieutenant  Pike,  early  in  July.  The  Missouri  being 
well  up,  we  found  the  navigation  as  favourable  as  could  have  been  expected.  On  the 
28th  of  the  same  month  we  reached  the  mouth  of  the  Osage  river,  which  we  found  a 
pellucid,  tranquil  stream,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  trifling  ripples,  and  a  fall  of 
about  six  feet  in  two-thirds  of  a  mile,  called  the  Old  Man's  rapid.  The  river  abounds 
ycith  various  kinds  of  good  fish,  especially  the  soft  shell  turtle,  which- we  took  in  great 
numbers.  The  banks  of  the  river  are  generally  formed  by  craggy  cliffs,  and  not 
unfrequently,  you  perceive  stupendous  rocks  projecting  over  the  water,  out  of  which 
issue  excellent  springs.  The  most  remarkable  natural  curiosity  which  I  observed,  is 
a  pond  of  water,  about  three  hundred  toises  in  circumference,  six  miles  above  the 
Yungar,  on  a  rising  piece  of  ground  considerably  above  the  level  of  the  river,  which 
keeps  one  continued  height,  is  perfectly  pure  and  transparent,  and  has  no  outlet,  by 
which  to  discharge  itself. 

On  the  12th  of  August,  the  Osages  appeared  dissatisfied  with  the  tedious  movement 
of  our  barges,  and  expressed  a  wish  to  cross  the  prairie  to  their  villages,  in  case  an 
escort  was  allowed  them.  I  immediately  volunteered  my  services,  and  we  parted 
with  the  boats  at  the  mouth  of  Grande  river,  the  spot  where  our  ransomed  prisoners 
were  taken  the  preceding  winter  by  the  Potowatomies. 

We  reached  the  village  of  the  Little  Osages,  after  a  fatiguing  and  laborious  march 
of  six  days  aqross  an  arid  prairie. 


APPENDIX.  369 

When  within  a  mile  of  the  town,  the  Chief  Tuttasuggy,  or  The  Wind,  desired 
a  regular  procession  might  be  observed,  and  accordingly  he  placed  me  between  him- 
self and  his  first  warrior,  and  the  ransomed  captives  followed  by  files.  Half  a  mile 
from  the  village  we  were  met  by  one  hundred  and  fifty  horsemen,  painted  and  decor- 
ated in  a  very  fanciful  manner.  These  were  considered  as  a  guard  of  honour,  and  on 
our  approach  opened  to  the  right  and  left,  leaving  us  a  sufficient  space  to  pass 
through. 

A  few  hundred  yards  in  advance  on  the  right  I  perceived  sixty  or  more  horsemen, 
painted  with  a  blue  chalk,  which  when  the  Chief  observed,  he  commanded  a  halt,  and 
sent  forward  his  younger  brother  Nezuma,  or  the  Rain  that  Walks,  with  a  flag  and  silk 
handkerchief,  as  a  prize  for  the  swiftest  horseman.  At  a  given  signal  they  started  off  at 
full  speed,  the  two  foremost  taking  the  flag  and  handkerchief,  and  the  rest  contenting 
themselves  with  having  shewn  their  agility  and  skill. 

As  I  entered  the  village,  I  was  saluted  by  a  discharge  from  four  swivels,  (which  the 
Indians  had  taken  from  an  old  fort  erected  by  the  Spaniards  on  the  river,)  and  passed 
through  a  crowd  of  nearly  a  thousand  persons,  part  of  whom  I  learnt  were  of  the 
Grand  village.  I  was  immediately,  but  with  ceremony,  ushered  into  the  lodge  of  the 
Soldier  of  the  Oak,  who,  after  having  paid  me  some  very  handsome  compliments, 
courteously  invited  me  to  eat  of  green  corn,  buffalo  meat,  and  water  melons  about  the 
size  of  a  twenty-four  pound  shot,  which,  though  small,  were  highly  flavoured. 

After  Lieutenant  Pike's  arrival  with  the  boats  we  formed  our  camp  on  the  bank 
of  the  river  equi-distant  from  the  villages  of  the  Grand  and  Little  Osages,  and  he 
selected  a  situation  for  making  his  observations,  which  he  did  not  complete  until 
the  28th  of  the  month.  The  29th  and  30th  were  devoted  to  packing  as  conveniently  and 
carefully  as  possible  the  mathematical  instruments  and  a  small  quantity  of  provisions. 
And  on  the  ist  of  September,  we  commenced  our  march  for  the  Pawnee  Republic,  and 
entered  on  that  vast  and  extensive  prairie,  which  lies  between  the  Missouri  and  the 
Rio  del  Norte. 

We  coursed  the  Osage  river  to  its  source,  and  almost  immediately  after  crossed  some 
of  the  small  branches  of  Grande  river,  which  enters  the  Arkansaw  about  seven  hun- 
dred miles  from  the  Mississippi.  After  passing  the  Grande  river,  which  we  found  to 
be  sixty  or  eighty  yards  wide,  we  marched  a  whole  day  before  we  reached  the  waters 
of  the  Kanses,  and  were  agreeably  suprised  to  find  ourselves  on  the  bank  of  a  bold 
running  stream.  Between  this  and  the  village  of  the  Pawnees,  we  crossed  two  strongly 
impregnated  salines,  which  passed  over  a  sandy  country,  almost  destitute  of  herbage' 
and  after  a  painful  march  under  an  oppressive  sun,  over  an  irregular  and  broken  sur- 
face, we  arrived  at  the  town  of  the  Republican  Pawnees  on  the  25th  of  September. 
We  were  met  the  day  before  by  a  number  of  warriors,  whom  curiosity  had  led  thus 
far  to  see  us,  among  whom  was  the  third  consequential  character  of  the  Republican 
party;  for  you  must  know  that  the  village  is  composed  of  the  followers  of  a  dissatisfied 
warrior  who  first  made  this  establishment,  and  the  adherents  of  a  regular  chief  of  the 
Grand  Pawnees,  who  migrated  thither  some  few  years  since  with  hisfamily,  and  usurped 
the  power  of  the  Republican  warrior.     To  such  a  pitch  does  this  party  spirit  prevail, 


370 


APPENDIX. 


that  you  easily  perceive  the  hostility  which  exists  between  the  adherents  of  the 
two  chiefs.  Early  on  the  morning  of  the  25th  we  were  joined  by  a  few  more  savages 
of  distinction,  headed  by  the  brother  of  Characterick,  or  the  White  Wolf,  Chief  of  the 
nation,  who  was  to  act  as  masterof  the  ceremonies  to  ourformal  entry.  Preparatory  to 
our  march,  we  had  our  men  equipped  as  neatly  as  circumstances  would  admit.  About 
mid-day  we  reached  the  summit  of  a  lofty  chain  of  ridges,  where  we  were  requested 
to  halt  and  wait  the  arrival  of  the  Chief,  who  was  half  a  mile  from  us,  with  three  hun- 
dred horsemen,  who  were  generally  naked,  (except  having  buffalo  robes  and  breech 
cloths,)  and  painted  with  white,  yellow,  blue,  and  black  clay.  At  the  word  of  the 
Chief  the  warriors  divided,  and  pushing  on  at  full  speed,  flanked  us  on  the  right 
and  left,  yelling  in  a  most  diabolical  manner.  The  Chief  advanced  in  front,  accom- 
panied by  Iskatappe  or  the  Rich  man,  the  second  great  personage  of  the  village,  and  his 
sons,  who  were  clothed  in  scarlet  cloth.  They  approached  slowly,  and  when  within  a 
hundred  yards,  the  three  latter  halted,  and  Characterick  advanced  in  great  state,  and 
when  within  a  few  paces  of  us  stretched  out  his  hand  and  cried  "  bon  jour;  "  thus  ended 
the  first  ceremony.  We  moved  on  a  mile  further,  and  having  gained  the  summit  of 
a  considerable  hill  we  discovered  the  village  directly  at  its  base.  We  were  here  again 
halted,  and  the  few  Osages  who  accompanied  us  were  ordered  in  front  and  seated  in 
rank  entire.  The  Chief  squatted  on  his  hams  in  front  of  them,  and  filled  a  calumet, 
which  several  different  Indians  took  from  him  and  handed  to  the  Osages  to  smoke. 
This  was  called  Horse  Smoke,  as  each  person  who  took  the  pipe  from  the  Chief 
intended  presenting  the  Osages  a  horse.  Mr.  Pike  and  Dr.  Robinson  afterwards 
accompanied  the  Chief  to  his  lodge,  and  I  moved  on  with  the  detachment,  and  formed 
our  camp  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Republican  fork  of  the  Kanses  river,  on  a 
commanding  hill,  which  had  been  selected  as  the  most  favourable  situation  for  making 
observations,  though  very  inconvenient  on  account  of  wood  and  water,  which  we  had 
to  transport  nearly  a  quarter  of  a  mile. 

At  a  council  held  some  few  days  after  our  arrival.  Lieutenant  Pike  explained  to 
them  the  difference  of  their  situation  to  what  it  had  been  a  few  years  past.  That 
now  they  must  look  up  to  the  President  of  the  United  Statesas  their  great  father,  and 
that  he  had  been  sent  by  him,  to  assure  them  of  his  good  wishes,  &c.,  &c.  That  he 
perceived  a  Spanish  flag  flying  at  the  council  lodge  door,  and  was  anxious  to 
exchange  one  of  their  great  father's  for  it,  and  that  it  was  our  intention  to  proceed 
on  further  to  the  westward,  to  examine  this  our  newly  acquired  country.  To  this, 
a  singular  and  extraordinary  response  was  given;  in  fact,  an  objection  started  in 
direct  opposition  to  our  proceeding  farther  to  the  west;  however  they  gave  up  the 
Spanish  flag,  and  we  had  the  pleasure  to  see  the  American  standard  hoisted  in  its 
stead. 

At  the  same  council  Characterick  observed,  that  a  large  body  of  Spaniards  had 
lately  been  at  his  village,  and  that  they  promised  to  return  and  build  a  town  adjoin- 
ing his.  The  Spanish  Chief,  he  said,  mentioned  that  he  was  not  empowered  to  coun- 
sel with  him;  that  he  came  merely  to  break  the  road  for  his  master,  who  would  visit 
him  in  the  spring  with  a  large  army,  and  that  he  further  told  him  the  Americans  were 


APPENDIX  371 

a  little  people,  but  were  enterprizing,  and  one  of  those  days  would  stretch  themselves 
even  to  his  town,  and  that  they  took  the  lands  of  Indians  and  would  drive  off  their 
game.  And  how  very  true,  said  Characterick,  has  the  Spanish  Chieftain  spoken?  We 
demanded  to  purchase  a  few  horses,  which  was  prohibited' us,  and  the  friendly  com- 
munication which  had  existed  between  the  town  and  our  camp  was  stopped.  The 
conduct  of  our  neighbours  assumed  a  mysterious  change  ;  our  guards  were  several 
times  alarmed,  and  finally  appearances  became  so  menacing  as  to  make  it  necessary 
for  us  to  be  on  our  guard  day  and  night. 

It  was  obvious  that  the  body  of  Spaniards  who  preceded  us  but  a  few  weeks  in 
their  mission  to  this  village,  were  the  regular  cavalry  and  infantry  of  the  Province  of 
Santa  F6,  as  they  had  formed  their  camps  in  regular  order;  and  we  were  informed 
they  kept  regular  guards,  and  that  the  beats  of  their  drums  were  uniform  morning 
and  evening.  The  Spanish  leader  further  delivered  to  Characterick,  a  grand  medal, 
two  nrules,  and  a  commission  bearing  the  signature  of  the  Governor,  civil  and  military, 
of  Santa  Fe.  He  also  had  similar  marks  of  distinction  for  the  Grand  Pawnees,  the 
Pawnee  Mahaws,  Mahaws  proper,  Ottoes,  and  Kanses. 

On  the  6th  of  October  we  made  some  few  purchases  of  miserable  horses  at  the 
most  exorbitant  prices,  and  on  the  7th,  unmoved  by  the  threats  of  the  Chief  rel- 
ative to  our  proceeding  farther  to  the  west,  we  marched  in  a  close  and  compact  body 
until  we  passed  their  village,  and  took  the  large  Spanish  beaten  trace  for  the  Arkan- 
saw  river.  We  passed  the  following  day,  an  encampment  of  the  Spaniards,  where  we 
counted  sixty-nine  fires.  On  the  9th,  as  usual,  made  an  easy  march,  and  about 
noon  when  we  halted  to  refresh  ourselves,  were  overtaken  by  three  hundred  Pawnees, 
on  their  way  to  the  salines  of  the  Kanses  to  hunt  buffalo.  Their  every  act  shewed  a 
strong  disposition  to  quarrel,  and  in  fact  they  seemed  to  court  hostility,  but  finding 
us  without  fear,  and  prepared  to  a  man,  they  offered  no  outrage,  and  having  grazed 
our  horses  an  hour  we  parted  from  this  turbulant  band.  Slung  our  packs  and  pro- 
ceeded on  to  Solomon's  fork  of  the  Kanses,  and  pitched  our  tents  on  an  old  encamp- 
ment of  the  Spaniards,  whose  trace  we  were  following,  as  we  found  the  next  morning 
many  tent  pins,  made  of  wood  different  from  any  in  that  country.  At  mid-day.  Lieu- 
tenant Pike,  Dr.  Robinson,  and  the  interpreter  Baroney,  pushed  on  to  search  for 
water,  and  I  remained  with  the  troops.  I  pushed  on  as  briskly  as  our  poor  half  fam- 
ished horses  would  permit,  and  at  night-fall  could  discover  nothing  of  Mr.  Pike,  and 
had  not  a  tree  in  view.  This  induced  me  to  quicken  my  pace,  and  as  darkness  had  ren- 
dered my  compass  useless,  I  coursed  by  the  Polar  star,  but  the  horizon  becoming 
overcast,  I  halted  on  a  naked  stony  prairie,  without  water  or  grass  for  our  horses.  On 
the  following  morning  I  directed  my  course  more  to  the  southward,  and  about  ten 
o'clock  came  to  the  creek  and  encampment  of  Lieutenant  Pike.  Late  in  the  evening 
of  the  same  day,  after  passing  over  a  mountainous  tract  of  country,  we  reached  the 
Grand  saline,  which  we  found  so  strongly  impregnated,  as  to  render  corn  unpalatable 
when  boiled  in  it.  On  the  12th,  after  a  distressing  day's  march,  we  reached  the 
second  or  small  saline,  and  on  the  following  day  encamped  on  the  most  western 
branch  of  the  Kanses  river. 


372  APPENDIX. 

We  were  detained  on  the  morning  of  the  13th  by  a  small  rain,  but  as  time  was 
pressing,  we  marched  about  noon,  crossed  the  dividing  ridge  of  the  Kanses  and 
Arkansaw  rivers,  and  halted  on  a  small  branch  of  the  latter. 

For  several  days  past  we  had  been  so  bewildered  by  buffalo  paths,  that  we  had 
lost  the  Spanish  trace,  and  this  being  an  object  of  moment,  we  resolved  to  make 
search  for  it.  Accordingly,  on  the  following  day  at  noon,  Mr.  Pike  and  Dr.  Robinson 
struck  off  from  the  party  a  due  west  course,  and  I  marched  the  detachment  for  a 
copse  of  wood,  which  we  could  barely  discern  in  the  south-west,  and  reached  it  about 
midnight. 

At  day-break  I  was  awoke  by  my  old  and  faithful  Osage,  who  informed  me  that 
we  were  on  the  banks  of  the  Arkansaw  river.  I  immediately  arose  and  discovered 
my  tent  to  have  been  pitched  on  the  margin  of  a  watercourse,  nearly  four  hundred 
yards  wide,  with  banks  not  three  feet  high,  and  a  stream  of  water  running  through  it, 
about  twenty  feet  in  width,  and  not  more  than  six  or  eight  inches  deep. 

I  remained  here  four  days  in  great  anxiety  and  suspense,  as  neither  Mr.  Pike  nor 
Dr.  Robinson  made  their  appearance,  nor  could  be  found,  although  I  had  all  my 
hunters  in  search  of  them;  but  I  was  agreeably  surprised  on  the  fifth  day  early  in  the 
morning,  by  their  arrival.  It  appeared  our  apprehensions  were  mutual,  as  they 
expected  I  had  been  cut  off,  and  I  believed  they  had  been  murdered. 

On  the  17th  it  commenced  raining  and  continued  for  several  days,  during  which 
time  the  river  rose  so  much  as  to  fill  its  bed  from  bank  to  bank.  Lieutenant  Pike 
having  determined  that  I  should  descend  the  Arkansaw,  we  cut  down  a  small  green 
cotton  wood,  and  with  much  labour  split  out  a  canoe,  which  being  insufficient,  we 
formed  a  second  of  buffalo  and  "ik  skins. 

After  the  rain  had  ceased,  the  weather  became  extremely  cold,  and  on  the  27th  in 
the  evening,  a  severe  snow  storm  commenced,  and  continued  nearly  all  night.  In  the 
morning  the  river  was  almost  choaked  with  drifting  ice,  but  the  sun  bursting  out  at 
noon,  the  ice  disappeared.  I  took  leave  of  Mr.  Pike,  who  marched  up  the  river,  at 
the  moment  I  embarked  on  board  my  newly  constructed  canoe;  but  unfortunately  we 
had  not  proceeded  more  than  one  hundred  yards  when  my  boats  grounded,  and  the 
men  were  obliged  to  drag  them  through  sand  and  ice  five  miles  to  a  copse  of  wood 
on  the  south-western  bank.  I  here  hauled  up  my  canoe,  formed  a  kind  of  cabin  of  it, 
and  wrapped  myself  up  in  my  buffalo  robe,  disheartened  and  dissatisfied  with  the 
commencement  of  my  voyage.  The  night  was  severely  cold,  and  in  the  morning  the 
river  was  so  full  of  ice,  as  to  prevent  all  possibility  of  proceeding.  The  day  continued 
stormy,  with  snow  from  the  north-west. 

On  the  30th  the  river  was  frozen  up,  and  towards  evening  the  water  had  run 
off,  and  left  the  bed  of  the  river  covered  with  ice.  This  circumstance  determined  me 
to  leave  my  canoes,  and  course  the  river  by  land.  Accordingly,  on  the  31st  of  Octo- 
ber, alter  having  thrown  away  all  my  cloathing  and  provision,  except  half  a  dozen 
tin  cups  of  hard  corn  for  each  man;  I  slung  my  rifle  on  my  shoulder,  and  with  my 
buffalo  robe  at  my  back,  and  circumferenter  in  my  hand,  I  recommenced  my  march 
with    a    light    and    cheerful    heart.     My   only    apprehension   was   the   meeting  with 


APPENDIX.  373 

detached  bands  of  the  Pawnees,  who  I  am  confident  would  have  brought  myself  and 
my  five  men  to  action,  and  the  consequence  was  very  obvious. 

On  the  ist,  zd  and  3d  of  November,  I  marched  over  high  and  barren  hills  of  sand, 
and  at  the  close  of  each  day,  passed  strongly  impregnated  salines,  and  perceived  the 
shores  or  the  river  to  be  completely  frosted  with  nitre.  The  face  of  the  country  as  I 
descended  looked  more  desolate  than  above;  the  eye  being  scarcely  able  to  discern  a 
tree,  and  if  one  was  discovered,  it  proved  to-  be  a  solitary  cotton-wood,  stinted  in 
growth  by  the  sterility  of  the  soil.  The  evening  of  the  3d  instant,  I  encamped  on  the 
bank  of  the  river,  without  a  tree  or  even  a  shrub  in  view.  On  the  4th  we  experienced 
heavy  rain,  but  hunger  and  cold  pressed  me  forward.  After  marching  ten  miles,  I 
reached  a  small  tree,  where  I  remained  in  a  continued  rain  for  two  days.  At  the 
expiration  of  this  time,  having  exhausted  my  fuel,  I  had  again  to  push  off  in  a  severe 
storm,  and  formed  my  camp  at  the  mouth  of  a  bold  running  stream,  whose  northern 
bank  was  skirted  by  a  chain  of  lofty  ridges. 

On  the  8th,  in  the  morning,  it  having  cleared  up,  I  began  my  march  early,  and  it 
appeared  asif  we  had  just  gotten  into  the  region  of  game,  for  the  herds  of  buffalo,  elk, 
goat,  and  deer,  surpassed  credibility.  I  do  solemnly  assert,  that  if  I  saw  one  I  saw 
more  than  nine  thousand  buffaloes  during  the  day's  march. 

On  the  loth  in  the  evening,  after  a  severe  day's  march,  I  encamped  on  the  bank  of 
a  large  creek,  and  discovered  for  the  first  time  on  the  river,  a  species  of  wood  differing 
from  the  cotton  tree.  I  assure  you  the  sight  was  more  agreeable  than  a  person  would 
imagine;  it  was  like  meeting  with  an  old  acquaintance,  from  whom  you  had  been 
separated  a  length  of  time.  I  even  began  to  think  myself  approximating  civilized  set- 
tlements, although  I  was  just  entering  on  the  hunting  ground  of  the  Osages.  The 
buffalo  and  goats  disappeared  on  the  12th,  or  rather  we  had  passed  their  range,  and 
entered  that  of  the  deer  only.  Our  marches  now  lay  through  rich  narrow  bottoms 
from  one  hundred  and  fifty  to  two  hundred  yards  wide.  , 

On  the  isth,  discovering  timber  sufficiently  large  to  form  canoes,  I  felled  a  couple 
of  trees,  and  commenced  splitting  out.  I  would  have  proceeded  farther  by  land,  but 
as  my  men  were  almost  worn  out  with  fatigue,  and  the  game  grew  scarce,  I  conceived 
it  most  advisable  to  rest  for  a  short  time,  and  kill  my  winter  store  of  meat.  This  I 
effected  by  the  24th,  and  on  the  same  day  completed  the  canoes. 

On  the  25th  I  again  attempted  the  navigation  of  the  river,  but  was  as  unfortunate 
as  at  first,  for  my  boat  grounded  after  floating  a  few  hundred  yards,  and  the  men  were 
consequently  compelled  to  ply  with  their  shoulders  instead  of  their  paddles. 

The  following  day  I  passed  the  Negracka  (Ninnescak),  at  whose  mouth  commence 
the  craggy  cliffs  which  line  a  great  part  of  the  shores  of  the  Arkansaw. 

On  the  28th  the  provision  canoe  overset,  and  I  lost  nearly  all  my  stock  of  meat. 
This  accident  was  rendered  the  more  distressing  by  an  almost  total  loss  of  my  ammu- 
nition, which,  unfortunately,  was  in  the  same  canoe. 

On  the  30th  I  fell  in  with  a  band  of  Grand  Osages,  who  were  in  pursuit  of  buffalo 
cows;  the  Chief  of  the  party  insisted  on  my  remaining  with  him  a  day,  and  sent  out 
his  young  men  to  hunt  for  me. 


374  APPENDIX. 

In  the  afternoon  two  Indians  of  the  Little  Osage  nation  joined  us,  with  a  horse 
and  mule,  and  brought  me  a  message  from  Tattasuggy,  or  The  Wind,  who,  it  appeared, 
was  lying  very  ill,  about  twenty  miles  across  the  prairie,  and  wished  to  see  me.  As  he 
was  a  particular  favourite  of  mine,  I  left  my  canoes  in  charge  of  the  men,  and  passed 
with  a  guide  to  the  Chief's  temporary  village.  I  found  him  extremely  unwell,  with 
what  I  conceived  to  be  a  dropsy,  for  his  abdomen  was  very  much  swollen.  He  seemed 
gratified  at  the  sight  of  me,  and  observed  that  he  was  poor  and  pitiful,  for  the  rea- 
son that  he  was  a  friend  to  the  Americans.  He  said  that  Chouteau,  after  he  had 
arrived  at  their  villages  last  fall,  had  treated  him  like  a  child,  and  had  taken  to  Wash- 
ington his  younger  brother  Nezuma,  or  the  Rain  that  Walks,  and  intended  making 
him  chief  of  the  nation;  that  Chouteau  told  him  he  was  a  bad  man,  was  an  Ameri- 
can, but  that  the  Spaniards  were  going  to  war  with  America,  and  that  in  a  short  time 
they  would  claim  all  this  country  again;  that  he  prevented  the  traders  allowing  a 
credit,  whereby  his  family  were  much  distressed.  This  I  clearly  perceived,  for  they 
were  even  destitute  of  a  whole  blanket. 

This  Nezuma,  whom  Chouteau  took  on  to  Washington  last  fall  with  his  wife,  I 
am  better  acquainted  with  than  perhaps  Mr.  Chouteau  himself.  In  the  first  place  I 
marched  with  him  from  St.  Louis  to  his  town,  and  he  started  with  us  to  visit  the  Paw- 
nees, but  the  mean  and  pitiful  wretch  got  alarmed,  and  sneaked  off  without  even 
advising  us  of  his  departure.  He  has  no  more  command  in  the  village  than  a  child,  is 
no  warrior,  and  has  not  even  the  power  to  controul  the  will  of  a  single  inan  of  his 
nation.  Whether  this  youth  is  entitled  to  a  grand  medal,  you  may  judge  from  the 
foregoing  statement.  Indeed,  Sir,  our  grand  medals  have  become  so  common,  that 
they  do  not  carry  with  them  the  respect  which  they  should.  I  recollect  one  of  the 
deputation  who  was  at  the  seat  of  government  the  year  before  the  last,  came  out  with 
a  large  medal  and  an  intermediate  sized  one.  On  our  arrival  at  the  villages,  I  calcu- 
lated on  his  acting  a  conspicuous  part  of  the  play,  but,  to  my  utter  astonishment,  he 
was  not  permitted  to  sit  among  the  chiefs,  or  even  the  warriors  at  the  council. 

You  well  know.  Sir,  how  particular  the  Spaniards,  and  the  British  especially,  have 
been  in  their  distribution  of  medals,  and  if  I  mistake  not,  an  Iowa  Chief,  who  had  been 
to  the  seat  of  government,  and  there  received  a  small  medal,  returned  it  in  preference 
to  giving  up  a  large  British  medal,  as  he  valued  it  more  because  it  was  a  certain  dis- 
tinguishing mark  of  a  Chief. 

You  gave  to  Mr.  Pike  an  intermediate  sized  medal  for  one  of  the  Pawnee  chiefs, 
which  he  presented  Iskatappe,  who  having  remarked  the  medals  pendant  from  the 
necks  of  the  two  Pawnee  young  men  had  been  at  Washington,  demanded  of  what 
utility  it  would  be  to  him?  The  only  Spanish  medals  in  the  Pawnee  nation  are  those 
worn  by  Characterick,  or  the  White  Wolf,  and  his  son. 

The  following  sarcastic  remark  was  made  by  the  son  of  the  Belle  Oiseau,  a  chief 
of  the  first  standing  among  the  Grand  Osages  whilst  living,  and  who,  unfortunately, 
was  killed  by  the  Sacs,  on  his  way  to  Washington,  with  the  first  deputation.  The  son 
of  White  Hair,  with  Shenga  Wassa,  or  Beautiful  Bird,  was  to  accompany  us  to  the 
Pawnee   village,   but   the    former  proved   recreant,  and,  at   the   crossing   of   Grand 


APPENDIX.  375 

river,  said  he  would  return  home.  "  Shame  on  you,"  said  the  latter,  "  what  a  pity  it 
is  so  great  and  honourable  a  medal  should  be  disgraced  by  so  mean  a  heart." 

You  will  pardon  this  digression,  but  I  would  wish  to  convince  you,  from  what  I 
have  seen  of  Indians,  how  very  requisite  it  is  to  use  the  utmost  caution  in  the  distri- 
bution of  our  presents  and  marks  of  distinction. 

Before  I  set  out  to  visit  Tattasuggy,  the  ice  had  commenced  drifting  in  large 
sheets,  and  on  my  return  I  found  it  running  from  shore  to  shore ;  I  however  pushed 
off,  and  drifted  with  it. 

The  night  of  the  2d  of  December  was  intensely  cold,  but  hunger  obliged  me 
to  proceed,  and  we  fortunately  reached  the  mouth  of  the  Neskalonska  river,  without 
accident  or  injury,  excepting  that  one  of  my  men  got  frosted.  This  day  we  passed 
two  salines,  which  enter  on  the  south-west  side. 

The  severity  of  the  weather  increased,  and  the  river  froze  over  on  the  morning  of 
the  3d.  This  circumstance  placed  me  in  a  situation  truly  distressing,  as  my  men 
were  almost  naked;  the  tatters  which  covered  them  were  comfortless,  and  my  ammu- 
nition was  nearly  exhausted. 

The  men  solicited  me  to  hut,  out  I  was  resolved  by  perseverance  and  exertion  to 
overcome,  if  in  my  power,  the  obstacles  opposed  to  my  progress. 

The  Neskalonska  is  about  one  hundred  and  twenty  yards  wide,  shoal,  and  narrow 
at  its  mouth,  but  deepens  and  spreads  after  you  turn  the  first  point.  On  this  stream 
the  Grand  and  Little  Osages  form  their  temporary  fall  hunting  camps,  and  take  their 
peltries.  When  the  severity  of  winter  sets  in,  the  Grand  Osages  retire  to  Grosse  Isle 
on  the  Verdigris  or  Wasetihoge,  and  the  Little  Osages  to  one  of  its  small  branches, 
called  Possitonga,  where  they  remain  during  the  hard  weather,  and  from  thence 
return  to  their  towns  on  the  Neska,  or  Osage  river. 

On  the  6th  the  ice  began  to  drift,  and  I  immediately  pushed  off  with  it,  but  as  my 
evil  stars  would  have  it,  my  boats  again  grounded,  and  being  in  the  middle  of  the 
river,  my  only  alternative  was  to  get  out  and  drag  them  along  for  several  miles,  when 
we  halted  to  warm  our  benumbed  feet  and  hands.  The  next  day  several  large  cakes 
of  ice  had  blocked  up  the  river,  and  we  had  to  cut  our  way  through  them  with  axes. 
The  boats  as  usual  grounded,  and  the  men  bare  legged  and  bare  footed,  were  obliged 
to  leap  into  the  water.  This  happened  so  frequently  that  two  more  of  my  men 
got  badly  frosted.  » 

On  the  8th  one  of  my  canoes  was  driven  on  a  bank  of  ice,  during  a  snow  storm, 
and  did  not  overtake  me  until  the  evening  of  the  9th,  and  then  in  so  shattered  a  con- 
dition, that  she  could  hardly  be  kept  above  water,  and  the  poor  fellows  who  were  in 
her  were  almost  frozen. 

On  the  loth,  about  noon,  I  passed  Grand  saline,  or  the  Newsewketonga,  which  is 
of  a  reddish  colour,  though  its  water  is  very  clear.  About  two  days'  march  up  this 
river  you  find  the  prairie  grass  on  the  south-west  side  incrusted  with  salt,  and  on  the 
north-east  bank  fresh  water  springs,  and  lakes  abounding  with  fish.  This  salt 
the  Arkansaw  Osages  obtain  by  scraping  it  off  the  prairie  with  a  turkey's  wing  into 
a  wooden  trencher.     The   river   does   not  derive   its  name  from  its  saline  properties, 


376  APPENDIX. 

but  the  quantities  of  salt  that  may  always  be  found  on  its  banks,  and  is  at  all  seasons 
of  the  year  portable. 

On  the  2oth,  in  the  afternoon,  we  passed  another  saline  with  water  equally  as  red 
as  fhe  former,  and  more  strongly  impregnated  with  salt. 

After  encountering  every  hardship,  to  which  a  voyage  is  subject  in  small  canoes 
at  so  inclement  a  season  of  the  year,  I  arrived  on  the  23d  instant,  in  a  storm  of  hail 
and  snow,  at  the  wintering  camp  of  Cashesegra,  or  Big  Track,  chief  of  the  Osages 
who  reside  on  Verdigris  river.  On  the  following  day  I  gave  him  your  talk,  and 
received  his  reply,  which  it  is  unnecessary  to  recount  fully,  as  it  was  merely  a  descrip- 
tion of  his  poverty  and  miserable  situation.  He  however  said,  that  he  had  been 
informed  the  United  States  intended  erecting  factories  on  the  Osage  river,  and  that 
he  was  anxious  to  have  one  near  to  his  own  village,  and  for  the  purpose,  he  was  will- 
ing to  give  the  United  States  the  tract  of  country  lying  between  the  Verdigris  and 
Grand  rivers.  A  factory,  with  a  garrison  of  troops  stationed  there,  would  answer  the 
double  purpose  of  keeping  in  order  those  Indians  who  are  the  most  desperate  and 
profligate  part  of  the  whole  nation,  and  more  fully  impressing  them  with  an  idea  of 
our  consequence,  and  gaining  more  firmly  their  friendship.  It  also  would  tend  to 
preserve  harmony  among  the  Choctaws,  Creeks,  Cherokees,  and  Osages  of  the  three 
different  villages,  who  are  in  a  constant  state  of  warfare;  and  further,  it  would  prevent 
the  Osages  making  excursions  into  the  country  of  the  poor  and  peaceably  disposed 
Choctaws,  and  might  have  some  effect  in  confining  the  Spaniards  to  their  own  ter- 
ritorial limits. 

On  the  27th  I  passed  the  mouths  of  the  Verdigris  and  Grand  rivers,  the  former 
being  about  one  hundred,  and  the  latter  ofte  hundred  and  thirty  yards  wide;  these 
streams  enter  within  a  quarter  of  a  mile  of  each  other.  Below  the  mouth  of  Grand 
river  commenced  the  rapids,  which  continue  for  several  hundred  miles  down  the 
Arkansaw. 

About  fifty-eight  or  sixty  miles  up  the  Verdigris  is  situate  the  Osage  village. 
This  band,  some  four  or  five  years  since,  were  led  by  the  Chief  Cashesegra,  to  the 
waters  of  the  Arkansaw,  at  the  request  of  Pierre  Chouteau,  for  the  purpose  of  secur- 
ing their  trade;  the  exclusive  trade  of  the  Osage  river  having  at  that  time  been  pur- 
chased from  the  Spanish  governor,  by  Manuel  Liza,  of  St.  Louis.  But  though 
Cashesegra  be  the  nominal  leader,  Clermont,  or  the  Builder  of  Towns,  is  the  greatest 
warrior  and  most  influential  man,  and  is  more  firmly  attached  to  the  interests  of  the 
Americans,  than  any  other  chief  of  the  nation.  He  is  the  lawful  sovereign  of  the 
Grand  Osage,  but  his  hereditary  right  was  usurped  by  Pahuska,  or  White  Hair,  while 
Clermont  was  yet  an  infant.  White  Hair,  is  in  fact,  a  chief  of  Chouteau's  creating,  as 
well  as  Cashesegra,  and  neither  has  the  power,  nor  disposition  to  restrain  their  young 
men  from  the  perpetration  of  an  improper  act,  fearing  lest  they  should  render  them- 
selves un[)opuIar. 

On  the  29th  I  passed  a  fall  of  near  seven  feet  perpendicular,  and  at  evening  was 
visited  by  a  scout  from  an  Osage  war  party,  and  received  from  them  a  man  by  the 
name    of  M'Farlane,  who    had  been  trapping  up  the  Pottoe.       We    passed    about 


APPENDIX.  377 

noon  this  day  the  mouths  of  the  River  des  Illinois,  which  enters  on  the  north-east  side, 
and  the  Canadian  river  which  puts  in  from  the  south-west.  The  latter  river  is  the 
main  branch  of  the  Arkansaw,  and  is  equally  as  large  as  the  other. 

On  the  31st  I  passed  the  mouth  of  Pottoe,  a  deep  though  narrow  stream,  which 
puts  in  on  the  south-west,  and  also  the  River  au  Milieu  that  enters  from  the  north- 
east. 

On  the  evening  of  the  6th  January,  I  reached  the  plantation  of  a  Mr.  Labourne, 
and  was  more  inhospitably  treated  than  by  the  savages  themselves. 

On  the  8th  passed  the  two  upper  Arkansaw  or  Quapaw  villages,  and  on  the  9th, 
after  passing  the  lower  Quapaw  town,  and  a  settlement  of  Choctaws,  arrived  at  the 
post  of  Arkansaw. 

The  surface  of  the  country  between  the  Osage  towns  and  the  Pawnee  village  is 
generally  broken  and  naked,  the  soil,  sterile,  and  abounding  with  flint  and  limestones. 
As  you  approach  the  waters  of  the  Kanses  it  becomes  hilly  and  sandy.  The  same 
may  be  said  of  the  country  between  the  Pawnee  village  and  the  Arkansaw,  but  after 
passing  the  ridge  which  separates  the  waters  of  the  Kanses  and  Arkansaw,  the  surface 
becomes  more  regular  and  less  stony. 

Below  the  Verdigris,  the  shores  of  the  Arkansaw  are  generally  lined  with  cane, 
and  consequently  consist  of  rich  bottoms.  I  was  informed  by  the  Indians  that  the 
country  to  the  north-west  of  the  Osage  village,  abounds  with  valuable  lead  mines, 
but  I  could  make  no  discovery  of  any  body  of  mineral. 

The  survey  from  the  Arkansaw  post  to  the   Mississippi,  I  fear  is  not  correct,  as  I 
was  so  ill  when  I  descended  that  part  of  the  river,  as  to  be  confined  to  my  blanket. 
I  have  the  honour  to  subscribe  myself 
Your  faithful  and  obliged 

Humble  and  obedient  servant, 
James  B.  Wilkinson, 
ist  Lieut.  2d  United  States  regt.  of  Infantry. 


(No.  XI.) 

LETTER    TO    GOVERNOR    ALLENCASTER. 

Santa  F^,  j,d  March,  1807. 
Sir, 
ON  the  arrival  of  your  troops  at  my  encampment  last  month,  under  the  com- 
mand of  Lieutenant  Don  Ignacio  Saltelo  and  Mr.  Bartholomew,  they  informed  me, 
that  Your  Excellency  had  directed  them  to  assure  me  that  I  should  be  escorted  through 
your  dominions  to  the  source  of  Red  river,  as  our  being  on  the  frontiers  of  your 
province  gave  cause  to  suspicion.  I  conceived  it  more  proper  to  comply  with  the 
request,  and  repair  to  Santa  Fe,  in  order  to  explain  to  Your  Excellency  any  circum- 
stance which  might  appear  extraordinary,  but  on   my  arrival   here,   am   informed  by 


378  APPENDIX. 

Your  Excellency,  that  it  is  necessary  that  myself  and  troops  pass  by  Chihuahua,  in  the 
Province  of  Biscay,  more  than  two  hundred  leagues  out  of  my  route.  I  have  demanded 
of  Your  Excellency  to  know  if  we  are  to  be  considered  as  prisoners  of  war  ?  You  inform 
me  you  do  not  consider  us  in  that  light.  Not  to  embarrass  Your  Excellency  with 
many  demands,  I  only  request  to  receive  it  from  under  your  hands,  in  what  manner 
I  am  to  consider  myself,  and  the  orders  for  my  passing  into  the  country;  also  whether 
the  expence  of  the  voyage  is  to  be  considered  as  defrayed  by  the  government  of  Spain 
or  the  United  States  ?  Excuse  my  language,  as  I  am  not  much  accustomed  to  writing 
in  French,  but  Your  Excellency  having  no  person  who  understands  English,  obliges 
me  to  attempt  that  language. 

I  am.  Sir,  &c. 

(Signed)  Z.  M.  Pike. 

TRANSLATION. 

THE  ist  Lieutenant  of  the  Anglo-American  troops,  named  Z.  Montgomery  Pike 
with  the  party  of  soldiers  under  his  command,  having  been  met  with  by  the  troops 
under  my  orders  at  four  day's  journey  from  the  seat  of  government,  in  this  province 
which  is  under  my  charge;  he  was  required  personally  to  appear,  which  he  voluntarily 
did,  complying  with  the  orders  of  the  senior  Commanding  General  of  these  internal 
provinces.  I  bade  the  said  Lieutenant  proceed  on  his  march  with  his  party,  equipped 
with  horses,  provisions,  and  equipage,  under  charge  of  an  officer  and  sixty  men  of  our 
troops,  with  orders  to  introduce  him  to  the  said  Commanding  General,  in  the  town  of 
Chihuahua.  I  permitted  the  said  party  to  carry  their  arms  and  ammunition;  actuated 
by  proper  considerations,  and  to  comply  with  the  petition  of  the  said  Anglo  American. 
I  certify  the  foregoing  contents  to  be  accurate. 

(Signed)  Joachim  Real  Allencaster. 

Santa  F<,  ^d  March,  1807. 


(No.  xn.) 


To  Governor  Allencaster. 


St.  Fernandez,  March  "jth,  1807. 


Sir, 

ON  my  arrival  at  this  village,  and  meeting  with  Dr.  Robinson,  he  informed  me, 
that  he  acknowledged  to  Lieutenant  Malgares  to  belong  to  my  party.  As  this  acknow. 
ledgment,  in  fact,  only  interested  himself,  I  am  constrained  to  explain  to  Your  Excel- 
lency, my  reasons  for  having  denied  his  connection  with  me.  He  marched  from  St. 
Louis  with  my  detachment  as  a  volunteer,  after  having  with  much  pains  and  solicita- 
tion obtained  permission  from  the  General  for  that  purpose.  On  our  arrival  on  the 
Rio  del  Norte  (then  supposed  to  be  the  Red  river)  he  left  the  party  in  order  to  come 
to  Santa  Fe,  with  a  view  of  obtaining  information  as  to  trade,  and  collect  some  debts 
due  to  persons  in  the  Illinois.  On  my  being  informed  of  his  embarrassments,  I  con- 
ceived it  would  be  adding  to  them  to  acknowledge  his  having  accompanied  a  military 


APPENDIX.  379 

party  on  to  the  frontiers  of  the  province — and  conceived  myself  bound  in  honour  and 
friendship  to  conceal  it;  but  scorning  any  longer  the  disguise  he  had  assumed,  he  has 
left  me  at  liberty  to  make  this  acknowledgement  to  Your  Excellency,  which  I  hope 
will  sufficiently  exculpate  me  in  the  opinion  of  every  man  of  honour  and  of  the  world. 
for  having  denied  a  fact,  when  I  conceived  the  safety  of  a  friend  in  a  foreign  country 
to  be  concerned  in  the  event.  The  above  statement  will  be  corroborated  by  Lieutenant 
Wilkinson,  and  he  will  be  reclaimed  by  the  United  States  as  a  citizen,  agreeably  to 
our  treaties  with  Spain,  regulating  the  intercourse,  commerce,  &c.,  between  the  two 
nations.  I  felt  disposed  to  enter  into  an  expostulation  with  Your  Excellency,  as  to  the 
deception  practised  on  me  by  the  officers  who  came  out  with  your  invitation  to  enter 
the  province,  but  will  refrain,  and  only  request  that  my  sergeant  and  party  may  be 
ordered  to  follow  with  all  possible  despatch,  as  he  has  all  my  astronomical  instru- 
ments and  cloathing,  except  what  I  now  wear.  I  have  found  Lieutenant  Malgares  to 
be  what  j'ou  stated  him,  a  gentleman  and  a  soldier,  and  I  sincerely  wish  the  fortune 
of  war  may  one  day  enable  me  to  shew  the  gentlemen  of  the  Spanish  army,  with 
whom  I  have  had  the  honour  of  forming  an  acquaintance,  with  what  gratitude  I 
appreciate  their  friendship  and  politeness,  and  none  more  highly  than  Your  Excel- 
lency's. 

With  sincere,  &c. 

(Signed)  Z.   M.   Pike. 


(No.  xin.) 

To  His  Excellency  General  Salcedo. 

Chihuahua,  6th  April,  1807. 
Sir, 
HAVING  been  for  near  the  space  of  a  year  absent  from  my  country,  and  the 
probability  of  its  being  yet  two  or  three  months  before  I  arrive  in  the  territory  of  the 
United  States,  the  necessity  of  passing  through  some  hundred  leagues  of  foreign 
territory,  with  the  distressed  situation  of  my  troops,  induce  me  to  apply  to  Your 
Excellency  for  a  necessary  supply  of  money.  Any  arrangement  which  may  be  con- 
ceived proper  for  the  repayment,  I  will  cheerfully  adopt,  either  to  pay  it  to  the 
Spanish  consul  at  New  Orleans,  or  the  ambassador  of  His  Catholic  Majesty  at 
Washington. 

The  sum  which  I  conceive  will  answer  the  present  purposes  of  myself  and  troops, 
is  one  thousand  dollars,  for  which  I  will  give  you  such  vouchers  as  Your  Excellency 
may  conceive  proper. 

I  have  the  honour  to  assure  Your  Excellency 
of  my  high  respect,  and  to  be 

Your  obedient  servant, 
(Signed)  Z.  M.    Pike. 

TRANSLATION. 

For  the  ist  Lieut.  Montg.  Pike. 

According  to  the  solicitation  you  have  made  in  your  letter  of  yesterday,  that  from 
the  royal  treasury  of  this  place  there   should   be  delivered  3'ou  one  thousand  dollars 


38o  APPENDIX. 

(which  you  say  are  necessary  for  the  accommodation  of  the  troops  of  the  United 
States  of  America,  which  you  have  under  your  charge)  or  whatever  other  sum  you 
choose  to  demand;  and  the  government  of  the  United  States  shall  refund  the  said 
sum  to  the  Senor  Marquis  de  Casa  Yrujo;  I  have  directed  the  formula  for  you  to 
sign  of  four  corresponding  and  quadruplicate  receipts. 

God  preserve  you  many  years, 

(Signed)  Nimesio  Salcedo. 


(No.    XIV.) 
To  His  Excellency  Brig.-Gen.  Don   Nimesio 
Salcedo,    Commandant  General   of    the 
Interior    Provinces    of    the  Kingdom   of 
New  Spain. 


Chihuahua,  14/h  April,  1807. 


Sir, 

ON  my  marching  from  Sante  Fe,  Governor  Allencaster  informed  me  that  my 
papers  would  be  considered  as  a  sacred  deposit  until  my  arrival  at  this  place,  when 
Your  Excellency  would  examine  and  take  them  into  consideration.  When  they  were 
examined  and  taken  possession  of,  I  explained  without  disguise  the  nature  and 
contents  of  each,  conceiving  that  those  only  which  had  any  relation  to  the  object  of 
my  expedition  could  be  interesting,  and  that  merely  a  copy  of  the  chart,  and  trans- 
lations of  the  official  papers  would  be  taken.  You  must  be  conscious,  Sir,  that  it 
was  in  my  power  to  have  secreted  or  destroyed  every  trace  of  my  voyage  and  plans, 
previous  to  my  arrival  at  Chihuahua,  but  resting  satisfied  that  no  rupture  had  taken 
place  between  His  Catholic  Majesty  and  the  States  I  have  the  honour  to  serve,  which 
would  be  a  justification  for  the  seizure  of  my  papers,  I  preferred  leaving  them  in 
statu  quo,  to  using  duplicity,  which  in  some  degree  always  implicates  the  character  of  a 
military  man.  Admitting  the  country  which  I  explored  to  be  contested  between  the 
two  governments,  each  would  naturally  wish  to  obtain  information  as  to  its  geo- 
graphical situation,  in  order  that  they  might  form  correct  ideas  as  to  what  would  be 
their  mutual  interest,  founded  on  justice  and  the  honour  and  dignity  of  the  nation,  in 
forming  the  line  of  demarcation.  This  was  the  view  of  the  United  States  govern- 
ment in  the  expedition  which  I  had  the  honour  to  command,  and  the  loss  of  the 
geographical  sketches  taken,  might  be  the  occasion  of  a  suspension  of  the  final  line 
of  limits,  and  consequently  the  delay  of  an  amicable  adjustment  of  the  now  existing 
differences  between  the  two  governments.  Your  Excellency  may  not  have  any 
intention  to  detain  my  papers,  which  I  had  only  begun  to  suppose  from  your 
returning  part  by  Lieutenant  Walker;  in  which  case  you  will  please  to  excuse 
this  intrusion:  but  I  will  add,  that  if  you  have  it  in  view,  should  you  be  pleased  to 
examine  them  with  particularity,  you  will  find  that  there  are  letters  from  General  Wil- 
kinson as  well  as  his  son  to  me,  also  from  the  latter  to  his  father  and  mother,  and  others, 
which  are  by  no  means  of  a  political  nature,  or  at  least  not  as  respects  to  the  relations, 
existing   between    the   government    of  Spain    and  the  United  States,    and    therefore 


APPENDIX.  381 

can  by  no  means  be  interesting  to  Your  Excellency.  The  book  which  contains  my  charts 
also  contains  part  of  the  sketches  of  a  voyage  to  the  source  of  the  Mississippi,  which, 
I  presume  cannot  be  interesting  to  the  Spanish  government.  But  to  conclude,  I  have 
only  to  request  of  Your  Excellency  to  know  if  it  is  your  intention  to  seize  on  my 
papers,  now  in  your  possession?  if  so,  that  you  may  cause  me  to  be  furnished  with,  or 
suffer  me  to  take,  a  copy  of  them,  and  that  I  may  receive  a  certificate  from  under  your 
hand  of  the  number,  nature,  &c.,  of  the  said  papers,  and  the  reason  for  their  seizure, 
in  order  that  my  government  may  be  enabled  to  make  the  proper  application  to  the 
Spanish  court  for  an  explanation.  My  reason  for  applying  to  Your  Excellency  so 
early  on  this  subject,  is,  that  on  the  arrival  of  my  men  who  are  still  in  the  rear,  I  might 
be  prepared  to  march  in  a  short  period  of  time,  for  under  the  present  aspect  of  affairs 
I  feel  conscious  that  I  am  as  anxious  to  arrive  on  the  territories  of  the  United  States, 
as  Your  Excellency  must  be  for  me  to  quit  the  dominions  of  His  Catholic  Majesty.  In  all 
events,  I  hope  you  will  believe  me  to  be  with  the  highest  sentiments  of  personal  respect, 

Your  most  obedient  servant, 
(Signed)  Z.  M.  Pike. 


(No.  XV.) 
To  his  Excellency  General  Wilkinson. 

Chihuahua.  20th  April,   1807. 
My  Dear  General, 

NEVER  did  I  sit  down  to  address  you  with  a  heart  so  oppressed  with  anxiety 
and  mortification;  but  knowing  the  uncertainty  which  must  exist  as  to  the  fate  of 
myself  and  party,  I  conceive  it  proper  to  attempt  a  communication,  although  I  think 
it  extremely  uncertain,  owing  to  the  difficulty  of  the  route,  and  to  various  circum- 
stances which  are  not  to  be  communicated  in  a  letter,  whether  it  may  ever  come  to 
hand,  or  at  least,  previous  to  my  arrival  at  the  territories  of  the  United  States.  I  was 
detained  in  the  mountains  of  Mexico  until  the  month  of  January,  and  in  February 
found  myself,  with  eight  of  my  party  only,  on  the  head  branches  of  the  Rio  del  Norte 
which  I  then  conceived  to  be  the  sources  of  the  Red  river,  our  information  making  the 
latter  extend  the  whole  distance  between  the  former  and  the  Arkansaw,  although  its 
sources  are  some  hundred  miles  below  either  of  the  others. 

Here  I  was  encountered  by  two  officers  and  one  hundred  men,  who  bore  orders 
from  the  Governor  of  New  Mexico  to  cause  me  and  my  party  to  march  to  the  capital 
of  that  province;  but  his  request  was  in  the  most  polite  style,  and  in  fact,  the  com- 
manding officer  assured  me  fhere  was  not  the  least  constraint,  but  that  His  Excellency 
desired  a  conference,  and  that  I  then  should  be  conducted  by  the  most  direct  route,  to 
the  navigable  part  of  the  Red  river,  from  whence  I  could  immediately  descend  to 
Natchitoches.  Although  dubious  of  the  faith  of  the  invitation,  and  being  in  a  situa- 
tion where  I  could  have  defended  myself  as  long  as  my  provision  lasted,  or  until  I 
might  probably  have  escaped  in  the  night;  yet  knowing  the  pacific  intentions  of  our 


382  APPENDIX. 

government,  and  the  particular  instructions  of  my  General  as  to  my  conduct  in  case 
of  a  rencontre  with  a  body  of  Spanish  troops,  I  conceived  it  most  proper  to  comply 
with  the  demand  and  repair  to  Santa  Fi;  and,  as  the  rest  of  my  party  who  remained  in 
the  mountains  were  many  of  them  invalids,  and  not  in  a  situation  to  be  able  to  return, 
I  conceived  it  most  proper  to  leave  orders  for  them  to  follow,  accompanied  by  an  escort 
of  Spanish  troops  left  for  that  purpose. 

On  my  arrival  at  Santa  Fe,  His  Excellency  Governor  AUencaster  informed  me  it 
was  necessary  that  I  should  immediately  march  to  Chihuahua,  in  the  Province  of  Bis- 
cay, in  order  to  present  myself  to  his  Excellency  the  Commandant  General  N.  Sal- 
cedo,  for  further  orders.  This  being  so  different  from  what  I  had  been  taught  to 
expect,  I  demanded  of  Governor  AUencaster,  in  a  written  communication,  to  know  if 
I  was  to  consider  myself  and  party  as  prisoners  of  war?  He  replied  in  the  negative. 
We  marched  on  the  following  day,  and  arrived  at  this  place  on  the  2d  instant,  from 
whence  I  am  informed  by  the  General,  I  shall  march  on  the  arrival  of  the  remainder 
of  my  party  for  Natchitoches. 

I  must  here  acknowledge  myself  and  party  under  infinite  obligations  to  the  friend- 
ship and  politeness  of  all  the  Spanish  oflScers,  and  in  a  particular  manner  to  the  Com- 
mandant General  of  these  Provinces. 

Should  the  politics  of  our  country  make  it  necessary  to  augment  the  army  pre- 
vious to  my  arrival,  I  hope  the  General  will  approve  of  my  aspiring  to  a  considerable 
promotion  in  the  new  corps.  Should  the  line  of  demarkation  be  amicably  adjusted 
between  the  United  States  and  Spain,  I  hope  to  obtain  the  appointment  of  one  of  the 
commissioners,  as  I  make  bold  to  assert  that  with  respect  to  the  arrangements  neces- 
sary, and  a  knowledge  of  the  country  through  which  the  line  must  pass,  I  am  bet- 
ter instructed  than  any  other  officer  of  my  age  in  our  service;  and,  if  joined  to  a 
colleague  of  profound  astronomical  knowledge,  we  could  surmount  every  difficulty. 
I  likewise  beg  leave  to  suggest  to  Your  Excellency  that  I  conceive  the  information 
I  hold  of  considerable  consequence  in  the  determination  of  the  line  of  limits,  and 
that  (it  not  already  determined)  I  can  throw  considerable  light  on  the  subject. 

I  hope  Your  Excellency  will  be  pleased  to  forward  orders  for  me  to  Natchitoches 
informing  me  if  I  am  to  descend  to  Orleans  or  proceed  to  the  federal  city?  and  if  the 
latter,  permitting  me  to  pass  by  Louisiana,  in  order  to  visit  and  arrange  the  affairs  of 
my  family,  to  whom  I  beg  the  favour  of  my  General  to  communicate  the  certainty  of 
the  existence  of  myself  and  Dr.  Robinson,  who  begs  to  be  sincerely  remembered  to 
you. 

The  General  will  pardon  the  requests  I  have  made  of  him,  knowing  the  confidence 
of  my  heart  in  the  paternal  and  soldierly  esteem  which  he  has  manifested  for  him,  who 
has  the  honour  to  be, 

With  every  sentiment  of  esteem. 

Respect,  and  high  consideration, 
Dear  General, 

Your  obedient  humble  servant, 

(Signed)  Z.  M.  Pike. 


APPENDIX.  383 

(No.  XVI.) 

TRANSLATION. 

To  Montgomery  Pike,  First  Lieutenant  of  Infantry. 

OF  the  papers  connected  with  the  expedition,  which,  by  orders  of  the  United 
States  government,  you  have  made  from  the  St.  Louis  of  the  Illinois,  into  the  settle- 
ments of  New  Mexico,  and  which  you  yourself  separated  from  the  others  which  you 
brought  here,  and  put  into  my  hand  the  day  of  your  arrival,  there  have  been  found  an 
inventory,  and  certificate  respecting  each  of  them  accompanying  it,  and  deposited  in 
the  office  the  17th  current  for  the  purpose  therein  expressed.  The  judgment  on  which 
remains  for  the  decision  of  the  King  my  Lord;  and  shall  be  reported  in  the  secret 
archives  of  this  Captain-Generalship.  Considering  that  you  have  indicated  in  your 
summons  official  to  this  government  the  greatest  desire  to  arrive  at  the  territories  of 
the  States,  I  have  resolved  that  you  prepare  to  continue  your  voyage  in  two  or  three 
days,  in  consequence  of  which  the  necessary  arrangements  shall  be  made,  such  as  you 
with  the  people  of  your  expedition,  have  experienced  until  your  arrival  at  this  place. 

God  preserve  you  many  years, 

(Signed)  Nimesio  Salcedo. 

Chihuahua,  2 ^d  April,  1807. 

TRANSLATION. 

IJJVENTORY  of  the  Papers  of  the  Lieutenant  of  Infantry  of  the  United  States 
of  America,  Montgomery  Pike,  detained  by  the  superior  government  and  Command- 
ant-General of  the  interior  provinces  of  New  Spain;  as  belonging  to  a  voyage  which 
he  executed  from  St.  Louis  of  the  Illinois,  to  the  territories  of  New  Mexico,  to  visit 
the  Indian  nations,  and  reconnoitre  the  country,  appearing  to  have  been  his  expedition 
undertaken  at  the  charge  of  the  government  of  the  said  United  States  and  by  orders 
of  General  Wilkinson:  * 

No.  I.     Letter  from  General  Wilkinson  to  Pike,  dated  24th  of  June,  1806. 

2.  Another  from  the  same  to  Pike,  i8th  July,  1806. 

3.  Another  from  the  same  to  another  officer,  19th  July,  1806. 

4.  Another  from  the  same  to  Pike,  dated  6th  August,  1806. 

5.  Letter  from  Lieutenant  Wilkinson  to  his  father,  27th  October,  1806. 

6.  Another  from  ditto  to  ditto,  28th  October,  1806. 

7.  Letter  from  Pike  to  General  Wilkinson,  2 2d  February,  1806. 

8.  Ditto  from  Lieutenant  Wilkinson  to  Lieutenant  Pike,  26th  October,  1806. 

9.  Proclamation  of  General  Wilkinson,  prohibiting  any  citizen  of  the  United 
States  trading  with  the  Indian  nations,  without  permission  from  the  government,  dated 
loth  July,  1805. 

10.  A  letter  from  Charles  Jonet,agent  for  the  Indians,  to  General  Wilkinson 
dated  10th  July,  1806. 


See  my  account  of  the  seizure  of  the  papers,  April  2d,  1807. 


384  APPENDIX. 

11.  Notes  of  Lieutenant  Pike  on  the  voyage  from  New  Mexico  to  Chihua- 
hua, of  four  pages. 

12.  A  rough  manuscript  of  the  Missouri  and  Osage  rivers. 

13.  Letter  from  Sergeant  Ballenger  to  General  Wilkinson,  unsealed. 

14.  Letter  from  Lieutenant  Wilkinson  to  Pike,  without  date. 

15.  A  certificate  in  the  French  language  of  a  certain  Baptiste  Larme,  found 
in  the  Osage  nation,  and  specifying  his  motives  for  being  there. 

16.  A  bundle  of  papers  in  the  French  language,  which  contained  notes  on 
the  harangues  and  manifestoes,  which  Lieutenant  Pike  had  delivered  to  the  Indian 
nations. 

17.  A  passport  of  Lieutenant  Pike  to  the  Indian  Winafricure,  a  captain  of 
the  little  Osage. 

18.  A  small  draft  or  map  of  the  country,  which  is- situated  between  the 
Mississippi  and  Santa  Fe,  with  a  description  of  that  town  and  a  notice  of  having  met 
with  three  thousand  Camanches. 

19.  A  book  in  octavo,  a  manuscript  which  contains  the  diary  of  Lieutenant 
Pike,  from  January,  1807,  to  the  2d  March  in  the  same  year,  when  he  arrived  at  Santa 
Fe,  in  seventy-five  pages. 

20.  A  book  in  quarto,  manuscript,  in  pasteboard,  with  copies  of  letters  to  the 
Secretary  of  War  and  General  Wilkinson,  and  various  observations,  astronomical,  &c., 
relative  to  the  commission  of  the  Lieutenant,  in  sixty-seven  pages.  . 

21.  A  manuscript  book  in  folio,  containing  different  plans  of  countries,  &c., 
with  a  diary  with  rhumbs,  distances,  and  worked  observations,  and  meteorological 
tables,  which  arose  from  a  revisal  of  the  voyage,  by  the  said  Lieutenant  Pike,  in  forty 
pages. 

Don  Francisco  Valasco,  first  officer  of  the  secretaries  of  the  Captain-Generalship 
of  the  internal  provinces  of  New  Spain,  and  Juan  Pedro  Walker,  Officer  of  the  com- 
pany of  horse  of  the  royal  presidio  of  Janos,  Certify  that  the  Lieutenant  of  American 
infantry,  Montgomery  Pik^,  when  presented  to  the  Commandant-General  of  the  before- 
mentioned  provinces,  Don  Nimesio  Salcedo,  produced  a  small  trunk,  which  he 
brought  with  him.*  And  that  in  the  presence  of  the  undersigned,  he  opened  it  him- 
self and  took  out  different  books  and  papers.  When  having  separated  with  his  own 
hands,  all  that  appeared  to  be  or  that  he  said  were  private,  or  had  no  connection  with 
the  voyage;  he  delivered  the  remainder  to  the  demand  of  the  Commandant-General, 
which  were  solely  those  comprehended  in  the  foregoing  inventory  which  we  have 
made,  and  for  the  verification  of  which  we  have  annexed  our  signature. 

(Signed)  Francisco  Valasco. 

Chihuahua,  Zth  April,  1807.  Juan  Pedro  Walker. 

•  The  falsity,  want  of  candour,  and  meanness  exhibited  in  this  certificate  is  manifest,  and  was  an 
imbecile  attempt  to  shew  that  all  my  actions  were  voluntary  and  that  in  the  delivery  of  my  papers,  there 
was  no  degree  of  constraint. 


APPENDIX.  385 

(No.  XVII.) 

To  His  Excellency  General  Nimesio  Salcedo. 

Chihuahua,  April  i^th,  1807. 
Sir, 

I  HOPE  Your  Excellency  will  not  attribute  it  to  presumption,  or  a  disposition  to 
intrude,  when  I  address  you  on  a  subject  foreign  from  my  official  duties,  and  on  which 
I  can  only  speak  as  an  individual:  but  I  should  feel  myself  wanting  in  humanity,  and 
that  attention  which  every  man  owes  to  his  fellow  creatures  in  distress,  were  I  to 
remain  silent;  and  more  especially  when  those  are  my  compatriots,  and  some  of  them 
formerly  my  companions — now  in  a  strange  country,  languishing  out  their  days  far 
from  relations  and  friends,  with  hardly  a  dawn  of  hope  remaining  of  ever  again  being 
blessed  with  the  view  of  their  native  homes.  It  is  scarcely  necessary  to  add  that  I  allude 
to  the  unfortunate  companions  of  Nolan,  who  having  Entered  the  territories  of  His 
Chatholic  Majesty  in  a  clandestine  manner,  equally  in  violation  of  the  treaties  between 
the  two  governments,  the  laws  of  the  United  States,  and  those  of  Spain,  could  not  be 
reclaimed  or  noticed  by  their  country.  Yet,  from  every  information  I  have  received 
on  the  subject,  the  men  of  the  party  were  innocent,  believing  that  Nolan  had  pass- 
ports from  the  Spanish  governor  to  carry  on  the  traffic  of  horses.  I  pretend  not  to 
justify  the  many  irregularities  of  their  conduct  since  in  the  Spanish  dominions,  but 
hope  that  it  may  be  viewed  with  an  eye  of  clemency,  as  they  are  most  of  them  very 
illiterate,  having  received  scarcely  any  education.  David  Pharo  was  formerly  a  sub- 
altern in  a  company  of  infantry  of  the  United  States,  commanded  by  my  father,  the 
time  I  served  as  a  volunteer,  but  left  service,  (as  I  have  been  informed,)  owing  to  some 
irregularities  of  conduct.  His  having  been  once  my  companion  entitles  him  at  pres- 
ent to  my  particular  attention;  yet  I  will  here  mention  to  Your  Excellency,  a  circum- 
stance which  may  appear,  if  known,  in  an  unfavourable  light,  viz.:  About  15  days 
past  I  was  informed  Pharo  was  in  town,  and  that  he  desired  to  see  me.  I  was 
extremely  mortified  at  receiving  the  information,  as  I  conceive  he  must  have  left  his 
post  in  a  clandestine  manner,  yet  I  could  not  find  in  my  heart  to  refuse  the  interview 
which  I  gave,  but  determined  at  the  same  time  to  inform  you  of  the  circumstance, 
conceiving  that  you  could  not  look  on  it  as  a  matter  of  much  criminality. 

But  to  conclude,  I  have  to  beg  of  Your  Excellency,  if  in  your  power  and  consist- 
ent with  the  line  of  conduct  you  conceive  proper  to  pursue,  to  inform  me  if  anything 
can  be  done  towards  restoring  those  poor  fellows  to  their  liberty,  friends,  and  country, 
and  in  a  particular  manner  I  intercede  for  Pharo.  If  it  is  out  of  the  power  of  the 
General  to  grant  them  leave  to  return  to  the  United  States,  I  beg  to  know  if  there  is 
any  objection  to  my  taking  out  letters  to  their  fathers,  wives,  &c.?  I  should  not  have 
addressed  this  letter  to  the  General,  had  I  not  conceived  the  fate  of  those  men  to  be 
at  his  disposal,  as  he  had  suffered  one  of  them  to  join  the  service  of  His  Catholic 
Majesty;  neither  do  I  request  the  honour  of  any  other  than  a  verbal  reply,  as  I  write 
in  the  character  of  an  individual,  and  not  as  an  officer  of  the  United  States. 

I  am,  sir,  with  high  consideration, 

Your  humble  obedient  servant, 
(Signed)  Z.  M.  Pike. 


586  APPENDIX. 

(No.  XVIII.) 

To  His  Excellency,  Governor  Salcedo. 

Natchitoches,  20th  August,  1807. 
Sir, 

PREVIOUS  to  my  departure  from  Chihuahua,  we  had  entered  so  fully  into  the 
subject  of  the  seizure  of  my  papers,  that  I  should  never  have  made  another  appeal, 
until  I  made  one  through  our  government  to  the  ambassador  of  His  Catholic  Majesty, 
had  I  not  received  orders  to  that  effect,  it  not  being  known  at  the  time  these  restric- 
tions were  given  that  the  propriety  of  the  seizure  had  been  contested  between  Your 
Excellency  and  myself.  But  as  you  have  now  had  time  fully  to  reconsider  the  busi- 
ness, it  may  not  appear  in  the  same  light  that  it  did  when  I  had  the  honour  to  address 
you  before.  Your  Excellency  may  be  induced  to  conceive  that  the  measure  of  seizing 
my  notes,  plans,  meteorologies  and  astronomical  observations,  &c.,  for  part  of  the 
Mississippi,  Missouri,  Osage,  Kanses,  and  Arkansaw  rivers,  waters  acknowledged  by 
the  Spanish  government  to  be  within  the  known  territories  of  the  United  States,  may 
not  be  justifiable.  Whatever  may  be  your  opinion  on  these  subjects,  I  am  at  an  entire 
loss  to  conceive  how  and  upon  what  principles  you  could  involve  in  that  seizure, 
letters  from  individuals  to  individuals,  the  contents  of  which  could  in  no  wise  be 
interesting  to  the  Spanish  government.  I  have  therefore  once  more  to  appeal  to  Your 
Excellency,  with  a  hope,  that  the  time  you  have  had  for  deliberation  may  induce  you 
to  conceive  it  proper,  and  but  an  act  of  justice,  to  deliver  up  the  papers  seized  at 
Chihuahua,  and  hope  Your  Excellency  will  have  the  goodness  to  address  them  to  me 
in  a  packet,  to  the  care  of  the  commanding  officer  of  this  place.  If  the  continuation 
of  an  amicable  understanding  between  the  two  nations  is  an  object  of  estimation  in 
the  mind  of  Your  Excellency,  the  final  demarcation  of  limits  must  be  considered  as  the 
first  good  step  to  betaken  towards  its  accomplishment;  and  to  enable  my  government 
to  form  a  correct  idea  on  that  subject,  it  was  requisite  they  should  be  well  acquainted 
with  the  geographical  situation  of  the  heads  of  the  Arkansaw  and  Red  rivers,  the 
former  part  of  which  I  had  accomplished,  and  could  with  all  ease  have  carried  the 
remaining  part  of  that  object  into  execution,  (after  discovering  my  mistake  of  the  Rio 
del  Norte  for  the  Red  river,)  had  I  been  permitted  by  the  Governor  of  North  Mexico; 
instead  of  which  I  was  hurried  through  the  country  to  Chihuahua,  without  having 
time  given  for  the  Absent  part  of  my  party  and  baggage  to  join  me,  by  which  means 
I  was  obliged  to  appear  in  a  garb  and  manner  incompatible  with  the  rank  I  have  the 
honour  to  hold;  and  which  in  some  degree  offered  an  indignity  to  the  country  whose 
commission  I  bear.  And  to  add  to  my  mortification,  I  was  then  deprived  of  the 
information  I  had  obtained  at  the  risk  of  our  lives  and  the  suffering  of  unknown 
miseries.  The  information  contained  in  my  notes  was  not  only  of  a  geographical 
nature,  but  also  such  as  would  enable  the  executive  of  the  United  States  to  take  some 
steps  to  ameliorate  the  barbarous  state  of  the  various  savage  tribes  whom  I  visited,  and  I 
may  be  permitted  to  add,  would  have  added  in  some  small  degree  to  the  acquire- 
ments of  science,  which  are  for  the  general  benefit  of  mankind.  When  I  left  Chihua- 
hua, I  was  informed  my  sergeant  and  party  were  detained  near  that  place,  in   order 


APPENDIX.  387 

that  they  might  not  be  permitted  to  join  me,  that  by  a  separate  examination  they 
might  be  intimidated  to  make  a  declaration  to  justify  the  conduct  observed  towards 
us.  This  I  am  conscious  must  have  failed,  but  I  am  at  an  entire  loss  to  conceive  why 
they  should  have  been  detained  until  this  time,  when  Your  Excellency  assured  me  they 
should  follow  me  immediately.  Their  detention  has  been  of  considerable  private 
injury  to  myself,  and  an  insult  to  my  government.  When  I  marched  from  Chihuahua, 
Your  Excellency  officially  informed  me  that  everything  was  prepared  for  my  transport 
to  our  lines;  but  I  was  much  surprised  to  have  to  pay  for  the  hire  of  horses,  &c. 
demanded  of  me,  at  the  first  place  where  we  changed  our  escort.  As  I  neither  con- 
ceived it  just  that  I  should  pay  for  the  involuntary  tour  I  had  taken  through  your 
territories,  neither  was  I  prepared  to  do  it.  But,  as  your  officers  were  responsible,  and 
gave  their  receipts  for  the  transports,  and  from  the  orders  received  by  Captain  Viana 
at  Nacogdoches,  I  was  obliged  to  hire  beasts  to  take  me  to  Natchitoches,  although 
an  escort  of  your  troops  was  furnished. 

I  here  with  the  greatest  pleasure  embrace  the  opportunity  of  acknowledging  the 
polite  treatment  I  received  from  your  officers  in  general  on  my  route;  but  in  a  par- 
ticular manner  to  Colonels  Cordero  and  Herrara,  to  Captains  Barelo  and  Viana,  with 
Lieutenant  Malgares;  to  all  of  whom  it  would  be  my  greatest  pleasure  to  have  it  in 
my  power  to  return  the  compliment.  Will  Your  Excellency  do  me  the  honour  to 
present  my  high  respects  to  your  lady,  and  my  compliments  to  Mr.  Truxillo  and 

Father  Rocus. 

I  am,  sir,  with  the  most 

Profound  consideration, 

Your  obedient  servant, 

(Signed)  Z.  M.  Pike,  Capt- 


(No.   XIX.)  BanctohUbr«r 

To  Captain  Pike,  U.  S.  Army. 

New  Orleans,  May  zoth,  1807". 
Dear  Sir, 
AFTER  having  counted  you  among  the  dead,  I  was  most  agreeably  surprised  to 
find,  by  a  letter  from  General  Salcedo,  received  a  few  days  since,*  that  you  were  in 

*THE  FOLLOWING  IS  THE  LETTER  HERE  REFERED  TO. 

From  General  Salcedo  to  General  Wilkinson, 

Dated  Chihuhua,  8th  April,  1807. 
Excellent  Sir, 

ON  the  i6th  of  February  last,  John  Robinson  appeared  before  the  Governor  of  New  Mexico,. 
saying  that  he  was  a  Frenchman,  inhabitant  of  St.  Louis,  which  place  he  had  left  on  the  15th  June  last 
year,  with  the  view  of  going  to  the  country  of  the  Pawnees,  to  make  recoveries,  that  having  received 
information  that  his  debtors  had  directed  their  steps  to  the  said  province,  he  had  concluded  to  follow 
them  in  company  with  fifteen  other  persons,  who  went  for  the  purpose  of  hunting  on  the  rivers  Arkansaw,. 
and  Colorado  (Red   river);  that  in  the  neighbouring  mountains  the  two  last  of  his  company  had  left  him,. 


388  APPENDIX. 

his  possession  and  that  he  proposed  sending  you,  with  your  party,  to  our  frontier  post. 
I  lament  that  you  should  lose  your  papers,  but  shall  rely  much  on  your  memory, 
and  although  it  was  unfortunate  that  you  should  have  headed  Red  river,  and  missed 
the  object  of  your  enterprize,  yet  I  promise  myself  that  the  route  over  which  you  have 
passed  will  afford  some  interesting  scenes,  as  well  to  the  statesman  as  the  philoso- 
pher. You  will  hear  of  the  scenes  in  which  I  have  been  engaged,  and  may  be 
informed  that  the  traitors  whose  infamous  designs  against  the  constitution  and 
government  of  our  country  I  have  detected,  exposed,  and  destroyed,  are  vainly 
attempting  to  explain  their  own  conduct  by  inculpating  me  ;  and  among  other 
devices  they  have  asserted  that  yours  and  Lieutenant  Wilkinson's  enterprize  was  a 
premeditated  co-operation  with  Burr.  Being  on  the  wing  for  Richmond,  in  Virginia,  to 
confront  the  arch  traitor  and  his  host  of  advocates,  I  have  not  leisure  to  commune 
with  you  as  amply  as  I  could   desire  ;  let  it  then  suffice  to  you  for  me  to  say,  that  of 

for  which  reason  he  saw  himself  under  the  necessity  of  proceeding  to  the  letan  Indians,  to  whom  he 
explained  his  situation,  and  who  accordingly  agreed  to  conduct  him. 

On  the  25th  of  the  same  month  of  February,  at  the  distance  of  four  days'  journey  from  the  town  of 
Santa  Fe,  and  nine  leagues  west  of  its  settlements,  at  the  place  called  the  Ojo  Caliente  (Hot  Springs)  near 
the  confluence  of  Rio  Grande  del  Norte  (Great  North  river),  and  that  known  under  the  name  of  Rio  de 
los  Conejos  (of  Rabbits),  a  detachment  of  the  garrison  of  the  said  Province  of  New  Mexico,  met  Mont- 
gomery Pike,  1st  Lieutenant  of  the  infantry  of  the  United  States,  with  eight  men  of  the  said  infantry 
who,  on  being  given  to  understand  that  he  must  be  conducted  to  the  said  town,  consented  to  accompany 
them. 

It  was  then  settled  that  two  of  his  men  should  remain  on  the  spot,  with  half  of  His  Catholic  Majesty's 
detachment,  to  wait  for  six  others  who  had  not  yet  arrived,  and  he  proceeded  to  the  Governor's,  to  whom 
he  declared,  that  his  being  in  that  neighbourhood  was  owing  solely  to  his  having  been  lost,  and  having  mis- 
taken the  Rio  del  Norte  for  the  Colorado.  But  this  officer,  in  compliance  with  the  orders  of  his  superior 
officer,  forwarded  the  said  rst  Lieutenant,  with  the  six  men  of  the  American  army,  and  the  above-mentioned 
John  Robinson,  to  this  capital.  They  arrived  here  on  the  2d  inst.,  and  the  said  officer,  on  being  pre- 
sented to  me,  laid  before  me  in  the  same  manner  as  he  had  done  to  the  Governor  of  Santa  Fe,  the 
papers  relative  to  his  mission,  the  correspondence  he  had  carried  on  with  Your  Excellency  since  it  com- 
menced, with  his  journals  and  note-books.  Your  Excellency  is  not  ignorant  of  the  repeated  representa- 
tions made  by  the  King's  Minister  in  the  United  States,  the  Marquis  of  Casa  Calvo,  whilst  he  was  in 
Louisiana,  summoning  the  American  government  not  to  carry  into  effect  any  projects  of  extending  its 
expeditions  into  territories  unquestionably  belonging  to  His  Majesty.  You  must,  therefore,  without  any 
further  observations  or  remarks  on  my  part,  be  satisfied  that  these  documents  contain  evident,  unequivo- 
cal proofs,  that  an  offence  of  magnitude  has  been  committed  against  His  Majesty;  and  that  every  individ- 
ual of  this  party  ought  to  have  been  considered  as  prisoners  on  the  very  spot.  Notwithstanding  such 
substantial  and  well-grounded  motives  that  would  have  warranted  such  a  measure,  wishing  to  give  the 
widest  latitude  to  the  subsisting  system  of  harmony  and  good  understanding,  and  above  all,  firmly 
persuaded  that  Your  Excellency  will  lake  such  steps  as  your  judgment  may  suggest,  as  best  calculated  to 
prevent  any  bad  consequences  on  the  occasion,!  have  concluded  to  keep  in  this  general  government  all  the 
papers  presented  by  Lieutenant  Pike,  and  to  give  him  and  his  men  full  liberty  to  return  to  Your 
Excellency,  after  having  treated  them  with  attention,  and  offered  them  every  assistance  they  stood  in 
need  of. 

1  am  without  reserve  and  beyond  expression,  your  most  obedient,  humble,  respectful,  and  faithful 
servant,  and  pray  that  God  may  preserve  Your  Excellency  many  years. 

(Signed)  Salcedo. 


APPENDIX.  389 

the  information  you  have  acquired,  and  the  observations  you  have  made,  you  must 
be  cautious,  extremely  cautious,  how  you  breathe  a  word,  because  the  publicity 
may  excite  a  spirit  of  adventure  adverse  to  the  interests  or  our  government,  or 
injurious  to  the  maturation  of  those  plans,  which  may  be  hereafter  found  necessary 
and  justifiable  by  the  government. 

I  leave  Colonel  Gushing  in  command  of  the  district,  with  plenary  powers,  and 
have  informed  him  that  you  have  leave  to  repair  to  St.  Louis,  by  the  most  direct 
route,  the  moment  you  have  communicated  to  me  in  duplicate  the  results  of  your 
travels,  voluntary  and  involuntary,  in  relation  to  clime,  country,  population,  arts, 
agriculture,  routes,  distances  and  military  defence.  The  President  will  be  impatient 
to  have  whatever  you  have  acquired,  and  to  the  detailed  account  a  sketch  must  be 
added,  and  the  original  and  duplicate  addressed  to  me  at  the  city  of  Washington, 
with  the  least  possible  delay.  You  may  make  up  your  report  at  Natchitoches,  and 
proceed  from  thence  to  the  Washita,  and  from  thence  to  the  Askansaw,  or  you  may 
descend  to  Fort  Adams,  and  proceed  thence  to  St.  Louis,  by  the  most  convenient 
route.  Colonel  Cushing,  whom  I  leave  in  command  of  the  district,  has  my  orders  in 
your  favour,  and  will  give  you  every  indulgence;  but  as  an  expedition  is  now  in  motion 
up  the  Arkansaw,  to  explore  it  to  its  source  and  further  north-west,  it  is  highly  impor- 
tant you  should,  either  in  person  or  by  two  or  three  confidential  men,  send  forward  to 
the  Arkansaw  every  information  which  you  may  deem  essential  to  the  success  of  the 
enterprize.  A  Mr.  Freeman,  under  the  chief  direction  of  Mr.  Dunbar,  of  Natchez, 
has  the  controul  of  this  operation.  The  escort,  which  consists  of  thirty-five  select 
non-commissioned  officers  and  privates,  is  commanded  by  Lieutenant  Wilkinson 
seconded  by  Lieutenant  T.  A.  Smith.  This  detachment,  with  two  boats  suitably 
equipped,  will  reach  Natchez  in  eight  or  ten  days  from  the  present,  and  will  proceed 
with  all  possible  despatch.  You  will  address  your  communications  to  Lieutenant 
Wilkinson,  who,  after  many  hardships  and  difficulties,  reached  this  place  about  the 
ist  of  March.  He  has  finished  a  pretty  good  traverse  of  the  river,  and'  his  journal 
is  interesting.  I  think  the  present  party  will  winter  near  the  Arkansaw  Osages,  about 
six  hundred  miles  by  the  river  from  the  Mississippi.  The  President  mentioned  you  and 
your  explorations  to  the  source  of  the  Great  river,  in  his  address  to  congress,  in  hand- 
some terms,  and  I  am  convinced  he  has  a  proper  sense  of  your  merits,  and  will  do 
you  ample  justice.  I  offer  you  leave  to  go  immediately  to  your  family,  because  I 
apprehend  it  will  be  most  desirable;  yet,  if  you  possess  in  your  information  aught 
which  you  may  desire  to  communicate  in  person,  you  are  at  liberty  to  proceed,  by  the 
shortest  route,  to  the  seat  of  government,  near  which  you  will  find  me,  if  alive,  three 
or  four  months  hence. 

I  pray  you  to  attend  particularly  to  the  injunctions  of  this  hasty  letter,  and  to 
believe  me,  whilst  I  am  your  general. 

Your  friend, 
(Signed)  James  Wilkinson. 


390  APPENDIX. 

(No.  XX.) 

To  General  Wilkinson. 

Natchitoches,  $th  July,   1807. 
Dear  General, 

ONCE  more  I  address  you  from  the  land  of  freedom,  and  under  the  banners  of 
our  country.  Your  esteemed  favour  of  the  20th  May  now  lies  before  me,  in  which  I 
recognize  the  sentiments  of  my  General  and  friend,  and  will  endeavour,  as  far  as  my 
limited  abilities  permit,  to  do  justice  to  the  spirit  of  your  instructions. 

I  must  premise  to  Your  Excellency  that  my  letter  of  the  20th  April,  dated  at 
Chihuahua,  went  through  a  perusal  by  General  Salcedo,  previous  to  his  forwarding  it. 

That  letter  stated  the  mode  of  my  being  brought  into  Santa  Fe,  and  I  will  now 
state  to  Your  Excellency  the  proceeding  on  the  subject  of  my  papers.  I  will  omit  the 
hauteur  of  the  reception  given  me  by  Governor  Allencaster,  for  a  more  particular 
communication,  which  changed  afterwards  to  extreme  politeness. 

Being  under  no  restrictions  previous  to  arriving  at  Santa  Fe,  I  had  secreted  all 
my  papers  which  I  conceived  necessary  fo  preserve,  leaving  my  book  of  charts,  my 
orders,  and  such  others  as  might  lead  the  Governor  to  know  me  in  my  proper  character 
and  to  prevent  his  suspicions  being  excited  to  a  stricter  enquiry. 

On  examining  my  commission,  orders,  &c.,  he  told  me  to  remove  my  trunk  to  my 
own  quarters,  and  that  on  the  morrow  he  would  converse  with  me  on  the  sub- 
ject. I  had  caused  the  men  to  secrete  my  papers  about  their  bodies,  conceiving  this 
to  be  safer  than  leaving  them  in  the  baggage;  but  in  the  evening,  finding  the  ladies 
of  Santa  Fe  were  treating  them  to  wine,  &c.,  I  was  apprehensive  their  intemperance 
might  discover  the  secret,  and  took  them  from  all  but  one  (who  had  my  journal  in 
full)  who  could  not  be  found,  and  put  them  in  my  trunk,  conceiving  the  inspection 
was  over;  but  next  morning  an  officer,  with  two  men,  waited  on  me  and  informed  me 
he  had  come  for  me  to  visit  the  Governor,  and  had  brought  these  two  men  to  take  up 
my  trunk.  I  immediately  perceived  I  was  out-generalled.  On  my  arrival  at  the  Gov- 
ernor's house,  His  Excellency  demanded  if  I  had  the  key.  My  reply  was  in  the  affirm- 
ative; when  he  observed  "  it  is  well;"  my  trunk  should  be  a  sacred  deposit  in  the 
charge  of  the  officer,  who  would  escort  me  to  Chihuahua;  for  which  place,  after  din- 
ner, I  marched,  under  the  escort  of  Lieutenant  Don  Faciendo  Malgares,  and  sixty-five 
men.  The  character  of  this  officer  I  beg  leave  to  introduce  to  the  attention  of  your 
Excellency,  as  an  European  possessing  all  the  high  sense  of  honour  which  formerly  so 
evidently  distinguished  his  nation,  as  the  commandant  of  the  six  hundred  troops  who 
made  the  expedition  to  the  Pawnees,  as  an  officer  of  distinguished  merit,  who  in  his 
mode  of  living  fully  justified  the  pomp  and  style  of  his  actions,  who  outshines  many 
of  their  governors  of  provinces,  and  whom  in  my  future  reports  I  shall  have  frequent 
occasion  to  quote.  He  observed  to  me,  "The  Governor  informs  me,  sir,  your  trunk  is 
under  restrictions,  but  your  word  of  honour  as  a  soldier  that  no  papers  shall  be  taken 
out,  and  you  have  free  ingress,  as  usual."  I  gave  it,  and  I  presume  it  is  scarcely  nec- 
essary to  add  it  was  religiously  adhered  to. 


APPENDIX.  391 

« 

On  our  arrival  at  Chihuahua,  the  general  demanded  my  trunk,  and  on  its  being- 
opened  and  the  papers  laid  on  the  table,  he  took  them  in  hand  one  by  one,  and 
demanded  the  purport  of  each,  which  truth  obliged  me  to  declare;  and  had  I  been 
disposed  to  have  equivocated.  Ensign  Walker,  of  His  Catholic  Majesty's  service,  who 
stood  present  and  assisted  in  the  examination,  could  immediately  have  detected  the 
fraud;  also  His  Excellency  understands  sufficient  of  the  English  language  to  discover 
the  general  purport  of  any  paper. 

After  going  through  them  in  this  manner,  and  separating  them  into  two  piles,  he 
observed  to  me,  "  you  will  leave  those  papers  for  my  inspection,  and  in  the  mean 
while,  in  concert  with  ensign  Walker,  (who  will  give  the  Spanish  translation,)  you 
will  give  me  a  detailed  account  of  your  route,  views,  destination,  &c.,  and  during  that 
time  I  will  examine  the  papers  now  before  me."  To  this  I  agreed,  flattering  myself 
that  it  was  his  intention  to  return  me  my  papers,  by  his  demanding  a  sketch;  also, so 
great  was  my  confidence  in  the  all-protecting  name  of  my  country,  I  conceived  it  was 
a  greater  step  than  the  General  would  venture  to  take,  to  seize  on  the  papers.  But 
when  I  had  finished  the  proposed  sketch  and  presented  it,  and  found  a  still  further 
delay,  I  addressed  the  General  on  the  subject,  when,  after  a  few  days,  some  were 
returned,  but  I  was  officially  informed,  that  "  the  remaining  papers  were  seized,  but ' 
would  be  kept  in  the  secret  cabinet  of  that  Captain-Generalship,  until  the  pleasure  of 
His  Catholic  Majesty  was  known," — at  the  same  time  I  had  presented  to  me  a  certifi- 
cate specifying  the  number  and  contents  of  those  detained,  and  stating  that  they  were 
assorted  by  own  hand,  and  voluntarily.  This  assertion  was  so  contrary  to  truth,  hon- 
our, and  the  line  of  conduct  a  general  should  have  pursued  with  a  young  gentleman, 
that  I  took  the  liberty  of  telling  one  of  the  officers  who  signed  the  certificate  that  it 
was  incorrect.  But  as  Sergeant  Meek  was  still  in  the  rear,  with  nearly  all  my  baggage, 
I  took  care  to  give  him  orders  that  none  of  the  said  baggage  should  be  opened,  except 
by  force,  which  will  evince  that,  although  I  preferred  acting  like  a  gentleman  to  oblig- 
ing General  Salcedo  to  resort  to  rough  treatment,  it  was  not  a  voluntary  surrender  of 
my  papers.  But  the  General  will  please  to  recollect  that  my  journals  were  saved  at 
Santa  Fe,  which  were  continued  and  are  entire  to  this  post;  a  fortunate  circumstance 
of  the  Doctor's  having  copied  my  courses  and  distances  through  all  the  route  (except 
an  excursion  we  made  to  the  source  of  the  River  La  Plate)  to  the  Spanish  territories, 
preserved  them.  These  will  enable  me  to  exhibit  a  correct  chart  of  the  route,  although 
not  so  minutely  as  the  one  seized  on,  which  was  laid  down  daily  by  the  eye  and  angu- 
lar observations.  Thus  my  only  Essential  papers  lost  were  my  astronomical  observa- 
tions, meteorological  tables,  and  a  book  containing  remarks  on  minerals,  plants,  &c., 
with  the  manners,  population,  customs,  &c.,  of  the  savages;  but  the  results  of  the 
former  were  in  part  communicated,  and  probably  my  journal  may  supply  part  of  the 
others,  and  our  memories  will  make  the  loss  of  the  latter  of  but  little  consequence. 
While  in  the  Spanish  territories  I  was  forbidden  the  use  of  pen  and  paper,  notwith- 
standing which  I  kept  a  journal,  made  meteorological  observations,  took  courses  and 
distances,  from  the  time  I  entered  their  country  until  my  arrival  at  this  place,   all  of 


392  APPENDIX. 

which  I  brought  safe  off  in  the  men's  guns  (where  I  finally  secreted  my  papers)  with- 
out detec-tion. 

From  our  unremitting  attention  day  and  night,  the  immense  territory  they  led  us 
through,  and  the  long  time  we  were  in  their  country,  I  have  been  able  to  collect  (I 
make  bold  to  assert)  a  correct  account  of  their  military  force,  regular  and  irregular; 
also,  important  and  interesting  information  on  geographical  situations,  political  sen- 
timents, and  dispositions  of  the  people  of  every  class,  the  manners,  arts,  resources, 
riches,  revenues,  value  and  productions  of  their  mines,  situation,  &c.,  &c.,  with  the 
annual  revenues  paid  Bonaparte;  and  had  we  possessed  as  great  a  knowledge  of  the 
Spanish  language  when  we  entered  the  territories  as  when  we  left  them,  our  informa- 
tion would  have  been  nearly  as  coinplete  as  I  could  have  wished  it,  if  sent  expressly 
for  the  purpose  of  acquiring  it,  by  the  open  authority  of  His  Majesty.  But  the  French 
language  was  greatly  beneficial,  in  which  my  communications  were  stjmetimes  made. 
By  the  Sergeant,  who  is  still  in  the  rear,  and  was  never  suffered  to  join  me,  as  General 
Salcedo  conceived  he  should  probably  procure  some  information  from  him,  which  he 
could  not  if  immediately  under  my  orders,  I  expect  many  other  communications  of 
importance  from  many  individuals,  who  promised  to  forward  them  by  him.  But  I 
presume  the  General  has  found  himself  in  an  error,  as  I  perceive  by  a  letter  from  him 
to  Governor  Cordero,  the  Sergeant  killed  one  of  his  men,  in  consequence  of  some 
improper  conduct,  and  the  General  accuses  him  of  great  intractability,  as  he  is  pleased 
to  term  it.  From  the  foregoing  statement  Your  Excellency  will  observe  that  I  yet 
possess  immense  matter,  the  result  of  one  year's  travel,  in  a  country  deserted  and 
unpopulated,  which  has  been  long  the  subject  of  curiosity  to  the  philosopher,  the 
anxious  desire  of  the  miser,  and  the  waking  thoughts  and  sleeping  dreams  of  the  man 
of  ambition  and  aspiring  soul,  and  in  our  present  critical  situation,  I  do  conceive 
immensely  important,  and  which  opens  a  scene  for  the  generosity  and  aggrandizement 
of  our  country,  with  a  wide  and  splendid  field  for  harvests  of  honour  for  individuals. 
But  my  papers  are  in  a  mutilated  state,  from  the  absolute  necessity  I  was  under  to 
write  on  small  pieces  in  the  Spanish  country;  also,  from  being  injured  in  the  gun  bar- 
rels, some  of  which  I  fired  three  times  off  to  take  out  the  papers.  These  circum- 
stances would  make  it  necessary,  in  the  first  place,  to  take  a  rough  copy  as  they  stand; 
then  it  will  be  necessary  to  assort  the  matter,  as  military,  political,  moral,  trade, 
clime,  soil,  &c.,  all  now  form  an  undigested  mass:  then,  sir,  the  combining  each,  the 
plotting,  &c.,  would  take  up  a  time  of  considerable  extent  for  one  man;  and  to  make 
duplicates  after  they  were  in  order  could  not  be  done  in  three  months.  The  General 
may  recollect  it  was  nearly  that  period  before  my  reports  were  completed  last  year, 
although  assisted  by  Mr.  Nau  and  the  Sergeant-Major,  and  sometimes  by  Lieutenants 
Wilkinson  and  Graham.  Also,  with  respect  to  the  Spanish  country,  I  must  know  the 
extent  of  the  objects  in  view,  in  order  to  embrace  those  points  in  my  reports;  and, 
further,  my  dear  sir,  my  health  is  by  no  means  the  most  perfect,  my  eyes  being  so 
extremely  weak  that  it  is  almost  impossible  forme  to  continue  for  one  hour  with  the 
pen  in  my  hand,  and  by  that  time   I  have  a  considerable  pain  in  my  breast.     From 


APPENDIX.  393 

these  circumstances  my  General  will  perceive  the  almost  impracticability  of  my  com- 
plying with  the  contents  of  his  letter  as  to  duplicate  reports  from  this  place;  but  I 
shall  immediately  commence  the  business  of  arranging  and  digesting  my  papers,  and 
will  proceed  with  the  labour  with  every  perseverance  my  situation  will  permit  of 
until  the  arrival  of  my  sergeant  and  the  residue  of  the  party  (should  they  not  retard 
more  than  twenty  days)  when  I  shall  proceed  immediately  to  St.  Louis,  and  from 
thence  through  Kentucky,  Virginia,  &c.,  to  the  federal  city,  making  no  unnecessary 
delay,  and  all  the  whole  of  the  route  prosecuting  my  business  at  every  leisure 
moment.  When  at  Washington  I  flatter  myself  with  your  assistance  and  advice.  As 
I  propose  taking  courses,  distances,  &c.,  from  thence  to  St.  Louis,  it  will  be  making 
the  tour  of  the  greatest  part  of  Louisiana,  crossing  the  main  rivers  at  different 
points,  when  I  am  certain,  with  the  survey  of  the  Missouri  by  Captains  Lewis  and 
Clark,  my  own  of  the  Mississippi,  Lieutenant  Wilkinson's  of  the  Lower  Arkansaw 
(which  river  I  surveyed  to  its  source)  and  Mr.  Dunbar's  of  Red  river,  may  be  formed 
the  completest  survey  of  Louisiana  ever  yet  taken. 

The  instruments  I  had  with  me  I  wish  the  General  to  inform  me  in  what  light 
they  stood,  as  most  of  them  were  ruined  in  the  mountains  by  the  falling  of  the 
horses  from  precipices,  &c.,  and  I  left  an  order  at  Chihuahua  for  the  sergeant  to  sell 
them  at  a  certain  price,  as  the  addition  of  a  land  carriage  of  five  hundred  leagnea 
would  not  add  to  their  benefit.  Baroney,  if  alive,  is  with  my  sergeant,  and  has 
proved  a  noble  fellow  in  his  line,  and  I  beg  liberty  to  recommend  him  to  some 
appointment  near  the  Kanses,  should  any  offer.  I  must  further  add  the  following 
anecdote  of  my  men,  in  whose  breasts  lay  the  whole  secret  of  my  papers,  and  whom 
frequently,  when  in  the  Spanish  territories,  I  was  obliged  to  punish  for  outrages  com- 
mitted in  a  state  of  intoxication,  yet  never  did  one  offer,  or  show  a  disposition  to  dis- 
cover it.  It  is  certain  they  knew  instant  death  would  follow;  but  still  their  fidelity 
to  their  trust  is  remarkable.  I  have  charged  them  as  to  communications,  and  shall 
dispose  of  them  in  such  a  manner  as  not  to  put  it  in  their  power  to  give  things  much 
publicity.  Dr.  Robinson  has  accompanied  me  the  whole  route,  is  still  with  me,  and 
from  whom  I  take  a  pleasure  in  acknowledging  I  have  received  important  services, 
as  my  companion  in  dangers  and  hardships,  and  counsellor  in  difficulties,  and  to 
whose  chemical,  botanical,  and  mineralogical  knowledge,  the  expedition  was  greatly 
indebted:  in  short,  sir,  he  is  a  young  gentleman  of  talents,  honour,  and  perseverance, 
possessing,  in  my  humble  opinion,  a  military  turn  of  mind,  and  would,  I  believe,  in 
case  of  an  augmentation  of  the  army,  enter,  if  he  could  obtain  a  rank  above  a  sub- 
altern. I  hope  the  General  will  be  pleased  to  have  my  copies  forwarded  by  Lieuten- 
ant Wilkinson,  so  that  I  can  command  the  use  of  them  at  Washington;  also,  all 
my  letters  written  him  during  the  expedition,  as  they  contain  information  I  wish 
to  refer  to,  and  the  copies  were  seized.  Dr.  Sibley  has  informed  me  the  expedi- 
tion up  the  Arkansaw  is  suspended,  which  supersedes  the  necessity  of  my  sending 
the  express  ordered. 

I  congratulate  the  General  on  the  safe  arrival  of  Lieutenant  Wilkinson,  and  am 
sorry  to  hear  of  the  difficulties  he  encountered.      I  have  been  obliged  to  draw  money 


394  APPENDIX. 

of  the  Spanish  government,  which  I  have  to  pay  to  their  ambassador  at  Washington. 
I  supported  those  of  my  men  who  were  with  me  all  the  time  in  the  Spanish  country, 
being  separated  from  my  baggage,  and  never  permitted  to  have  it  join  me,  and  hav- 
ing been  presented  to  the  Commandant-General  in  a  blanket  cappot:  I  was  under  the 
necessity  of  going  into  very  considerable  expense  to.  support  what  I  not  only  con- 
sidered my  own  honour,  but  the  dignity  of  our  army.  This,  where  a  captain's  pay  is 
two  thousand  four  hundred  dollars  per  annum,  was  a  ruinous  thing  to  my  finances; 
but  I  hope  it  maybe  taken  into  due  consideration. 

After  making  myself  pretty  perfect  in  the  French  language,  I  have  obtained  such 
a  knowledge  of  the  Spanish  as  to  make  me  confident  in  asserting,  that  in  three  or 
four  years  I  will  with  ease  make  myself  master  of  the  latter,  Italian,  and  Portugueze, 
sufficiently  to  read  all,  and  speak  and  write  the  Spanish.  The  Doctor  has  even 
exceeded  me  in  that  point.  I  mention  this  to  the  General,  as  I  know  the  interest  he 
takes  in  the  improvement  of  his  military  protege. 

We  had  heard  in  the  Spanish  dominions  of  the  convulsions  of  the  western  country, 
originating  in  Mr.  Burr's  plans,  and  that  you  were  implicated;  sometimes  that  you 
were  arrested,  sometimes  superseded,  &c.  Those  reports  (although  I  never  gave 
credit  to  them)  occasioned  me  great  unhappiness,  as  I  conceived  that  the  shafts  of 
calumny  were  aiming  at  your  fame  and  honour,  in  a  foreign  country,  where  they  had 
hitherto  stood  high,  and  were  revered  and  respected  by  every  class.  At  St.  Antonio 
Colonel  Cordero  informed  me  of  the  truth  of  the  statement,  which  took  a  load  from 
my  breast  and  made  me  comparatively  happy,  and  I  hope  ere  long  the  villainy  will  be 
unmasked  and  malignity  and  slander  hide  their  heads.  The  before-mentioned  gentle- 
man sent  you  by  me  a  box  of  Spanish  chocolate,  which  I  shall  forward  to  Colonel 
Cushing.  Governor  Herrara  said  the  maliciousness  of  the  world  was  such  as  to  for- 
bid his  writing,  but  begged  to  be  sincerely  remembered  to  you.  A  letter  addressed 
to  me,  Cincinnati,  Ohio,  may  possibly  reach  me  on  my  route,  when  I  hope  to  receive 
the  approbation  of  my  conduct.  Many  letters  written  to  me,  addressed  to  this  place, 
have  been  secreted  or  destroyed:  probably  the  General  can  give  me  a  hint  on  the  sub- 
ject. 

These  ideas  have  made  a  deep  impression  on  my  mind,  and  did  not  an  all-ruling 
passion  sway  me  irresistibly  to  the  profession  of  arms  and  the  paths  of  military  glory, 
I  would  long  since  have  resigned  my  sword  for  the  rural  cot,  where  peace,  health,  and 
content  would  at  least  be  our  inmates,  should  not  our  brows  be  crowned  with  laurel. 

I  must  now  conclude,  as  this  letter  has  far  exceeded  the  bounds  proposed  when 
commenced;  but  the  effusions  of  my  heart  are  such  on  its  contents,  that  I  could  not 
limit  them  to  a  more  contracted  space.  Excuse  my  scrawl,  as  I  am  entirely  out  of 
patience,  but  believe  me  to  be. 

Dear  General, 

With  high  respect  and  esteem. 

Your  obedient  servant, 
'  (Signed)  Z.  M.  Pike,  Captain. 

THE  END. 


(Z>^kW:'^'. 


i-'^mMMWff^ 


